Which Linseed Oil For Axe Handles ?

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  • เผยแพร่เมื่อ 29 ม.ค. 2025

ความคิดเห็น • 241

  • @RONCOR1950
    @RONCOR1950 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Dave, That was an outstanding video presentation! So simple and easily understood. You could not have done any better. Senior outdoorsman... Ronald, Orlando FL.

  • @Bob-t1v
    @Bob-t1v 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Very timely and exceptionally helpful. Treating a raw axe handle and was having a hard time trying to find the right combo. Thanks for the work.

  • @irishsteel6160
    @irishsteel6160 7 ปีที่แล้ว +9

    Great video. My grandad taught us to used boiled linseed oil applied to a new handle once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year and then once a year.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      sounds good to me! Thanks Irishsteel.

  • @TheWtfnonamez
    @TheWtfnonamez 5 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Very pragmatic video. Funny to watch a video where someone does NOT give you an answer to the question .... but at the same time provides all of the solutions you need. Thank you.

  • @SkillCult
    @SkillCult 7 ปีที่แล้ว +50

    I forego the boiled, mostly because of the toxic metals, but also theoretically at least, because of the reduced curing time. I use raw and sometimes sun thickened. For me it's about both penetration and saturation. Deep is one thing, but to have the wood filled with oil pretty deeply, which then cures is my ideal. It takes time and also very temperature dependent. to get them where I want them takes pretty large amounts of oil, but I don't do it that deep on all tools.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +7

      Thanks Skillcult. Good info.

    • @axemaster8891
      @axemaster8891 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great reason to buy Vintage Axe Oil. www.vintagetoolco.com

    • @greekveteran2715
      @greekveteran2715 2 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      What you usually miss in the US, becasue it's so good, that it doesn't need any kind of promotion and marketing tricks to sell, is the almighty Ballistol !!! A can't call it just an oil, because I've found endless uses for it, but I can garantee, it does a perfect job, however you use it. That's also ,what 90% of the time, people who use WD-40 should have used instead. Ballistol works as good as B.linseed oil, if not better on wood,leather, plastic any material... even your own skin, for either small wounds, or ich from mosquitos. it also lubricates, and can be used as a hoining oil, which provides a sharper edge and wears out the stone less. It can be mixed with water, for many uses, which makes it even more versatile, than it already is. I love it's smell too! Smells great, has great feel, unbelievable versatility/performance.

    • @greekveteran2715
      @greekveteran2715 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @Mark DeLabete I know Mark, I'm a chemist and in the same time I've worked half my life as a first responder . Go read the history of Ballistol, about who made them and what it was designed for, to understand what I was saying about wounds.
      To make it easier for you, any kind of oil will work in a pinch, it can help a fresh wound ,to not get infected.
      Ballistol (the classic version that comes in a glass bottle) is the oil I'm refering to.

    • @AnarchAngel1
      @AnarchAngel1 2 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@greekveteran2715 I love Ballistol. It has seemingly endless applications. I use it to protect the head of my axes and I usually hit the handle with it while I'm at it. I use boiled linseed oil though also but probably less regularly. All my wooden handles are in great shape 👌

  • @Imightberiding
    @Imightberiding 7 ปีที่แล้ว +128

    I apologise in advance for the length of this comment & I'm sorry to contradict you & the info you shared on your video but... I'm certain it may be worth your while to read my comment in its entirety. Take it from an older dude like myself. I've been a carpenter for over 30 yrs & have been messing in the woods since I can remember.
    You pretty much have it backwards. The raw linseed oil which is just flax oil will penetrate the deepest into the structure & fibres of the wood. This is because it takes far longer to dry & thus has more time to penetrate. Boiled linseed oil is not really what it sounds like. It is not flax oil that has only been boiled. It contains harmful chemicals & petroleum based products & that is why it mixes so well with mineral spirits like paint thinner.
    By mixing boiled linseed oil with paint thinner, you are not only diluting it & its effectuality but you are causing it to evaporate much more quickly & as a result it doesn't have the time to penetrate the wood very deep before it dries. You are basically applying a surface coating. Boiled linseed oil on its own dries slower & thus penetrates deeper & provides more protection & a longer lasting finish. Raw linseed oil which again is nothing more than natural flax oil takes far longer to dry & ultimately provides more protection through deeper absorption due to the extended drying time. It also gives you that "buttery" old school grandpa's finish you mentioned.
    So many TH-camrs espouse their use of boiled linseed oil but are not aware of these differences & the toxicity of what they are using. Mind you, I have used it for years on many wooden handle tools but have been aware of this just as I am about other products on the market for preserving & finishing wood.
    You will also want to & actually need to apply several coats of either choice for adequate protection. The only difference in application is to let boiled linseed oil or any blend thereof with paint thinner to dry between coats & lightly sand with very fine grit paper or steel wool between coats. With raw linseed oil, you do not want to let it dry between coats although this isn't prohibitive in the process as it takes so much longer to dry. What you want to do is keep applying coats until the wood no longer appears to be capable of soaking in any more oil. When this happens, let the last coat completely dry & then use steel wool or very fine sand paper & apply another coat. Let completely dry & then just use steel wool & re-apply & repeat one or two or three more times. It is very time consuming but the end results will be a beautiful, luxurious finish that has almost turned the wood to a solid resin that will provide years of protection.
    Don't get me wrong, I like & still use boiled linseed oil on most of my wooden handled tools but reserve the true gems & heirloom quality axes, chisels, wooden planes etc for raw linseed oil.
    Sorry this was so long but I trust perhaps shines a little light on this matter for you & your viewers. You may also want to check out Skillcut's channel here on TH-cam. He is the only other person I have come across who is also in the know about these oils. Search for his videos about how he oils his handles. He has a few different ones. Just know that he is a little eccentric in a harmless "Techno Viking" sort of way but also very knowledgeable. He also has some good things to say about the thickness, length & shape of axe handles which I agree with. If you are not familiar with "Techno Viking" just google him & you'll see what I mean as far as a slight resemblance & it may bring you a little chuckle. My work here is done. All the best wth your axes. I quite liked the classic True Temper ones. Cheers.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +13

      Thanks for the comment. Very interesting regarding the raw soaking in farther. Its counter-intuitive, but I'll take your word on it. As for this test, I just reported what I thought the test proved to me. I could have gone farther into it.....maybe next time. Thanks for the interest and your comment!

    • @Imightberiding
      @Imightberiding 7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Again, my apologies for the long winded comment. It's not really counter-intuitive if you think about it. The longer it takes something to dry, the longer it has to soak in. Also, paint thinners & solvents evaporate very quickly which promotes fast drying & less time to soak in. Boiled linseed oil contains these solvents & when you cut it with paint thinner you are only compounding this issue. When moisture evaporates it leaves the surface dry.
      Boiled linseed oil is a good product in my opinion & is faster than raw linseed oil. Boiled linseed oil cut with more solvents is even faster. The compromise however is a less durable & lustrous protective coating as you get further away from raw.
      OK I'm done for sure now. All I ever hear about & see on TH-cam videos is: "boiled linseed oil" & I don't think most of the young fellows using it even know what linseed oil is. Cheers. I've watched several of your videos. Good stuff.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the comment. Most of what I use is raw linseed oil, but its used on guitar fretboards, as I do a lot of guitar repair and set up work. As for tool handles, I use whatever I have....which a lot of the time is Watco Danish oil. The Linseed oil debate is a big can of worms for sure LOL, I just had three axes and thought I would give it a quick go and see how things shook out. I've always liked the 50/50 mix on tool handles because I would do all my handles in the spring and they would feel good all summer, but I agree they would be better with raw given the time to soak in and cure. Thanks for the response.

    • @Imightberiding
      @Imightberiding 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      I should have suspected as much from watching your videos; another renaissance man. You sir are a man of many talents.
      The quick drying method you use on your tools makes the most sense & is ultimately the most practical & frugal. I'll catch you on your future vids.

    • @N8urecure
      @N8urecure 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Nice!

  • @purpleshug6791
    @purpleshug6791 6 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    Now this is how a quality video is supposed to be! Thank you sir!

  • @robertodebeers2551
    @robertodebeers2551 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +3

    I've been using boiled linseed with some paint thinner (70% oil/30% thinner approx) for years and I like the results on old handles and new.

  • @timlopes67
    @timlopes67 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I like these random but super handy kind of videos that you upload. about the chainsaws, the knives and even fixing the cars.

  • @jamieeakin1383
    @jamieeakin1383 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Well, I am five years late to the party, but axe handles (and a bow saw) are the questions I walked in with, and you answered them very nicely. Thanks!

  • @robotrash41
    @robotrash41 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    I do a fire finish with a torch prior to boiled linseed oil. The hot handle soaks it up. Fire finish looks better and helps seal the handle.

  • @Backyard_Chickens
    @Backyard_Chickens 3 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thank you, video came at the perfect time. I am getting ready to buy Linseed oil. I do worry about paint thinner not being a healthy option so I do not plan to use it. Thanks again, God bless!

  • @netpoke58
    @netpoke58 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Enjoyed your video and didn't realize there were so many different opinions on this simple task. I have been restoring/preserving old handles for years as well of taking care of the occasional new one. What my main go to is boiled Linseed oil cut with Thompsons water seal. Seems to soak in better than the thinner and does a great job. The other things I don't hear much talk about but work great is Orange oil which is like a furniture cleaner and restorer. It really soaks in. The other is pine tar. Really works good for handles that see alot of outside elements. Thanks for the great video.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks

    • @AnarchAngel1
      @AnarchAngel1 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Good old Ballistol does a good job as well

  • @welshwizard822
    @welshwizard822 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Been using raw all my life and always find it the best for this job. And I been doing it 60 years

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      The only issue with Raw is it can be hard to find. I use it on guitar fretboards and have for 30 years.... but I can count on one hand how many times Ive seen RAW linseen oil for sale. Ive actually almost bought old half empty cans at antique stores.

    • @shockwave6213
      @shockwave6213 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Bushradical Amazon has 1 quart bottles and 1 gallon cans of raw linseed oil from Sunnyside.

    • @rusterkat1188
      @rusterkat1188 3 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Flax seed oil = raw linseed oil

  • @Straken07
    @Straken07 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Really cool channel ! Axes videos are always welcomed

  • @jamicanmonkey1919
    @jamicanmonkey1919 7 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    Loving your videos man! They are unique and informative. Keep up the good work 😎

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks brother! Appreciate it.

  • @cillaloves2fish688
    @cillaloves2fish688 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Bob Ross wud be proud of ur brush stroke skilz! Thanks for the tips!

  • @jonathanrogers9961
    @jonathanrogers9961 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    started using a similar mix, boiled linseed, turpentine, and pine tar all in equal parts. great finish.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Awesome. I'll have to try that.

  • @zacharyriley4122
    @zacharyriley4122 3 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    by the way if you ever use raw tung oil, make sure and warm up the handle a bit (like a few feet in front of a heater/fireplace or about a foot above an electric oil radiator heater) and warm up the oil a little to help it soak in and penetrate better. It’s the absolute best finish though IMO. Make sure to wipe it until there’s basically nothing left each time. There’s still an extremely thin coat even if you think you are wiping it all off. and some sinks in. Less and less sink in obviously with additional coats. Eventually you can use a fingernail sized bot of tung oil to do a coat once it’s built a decent coat on in already. And then you have something that you simply can’t buy in a store period. The brand I happen to use is called “The Real Milk Paint Co.”. It’s amazing stuff.

    • @buckwild6587
      @buckwild6587 ปีที่แล้ว

      I was looking at a camp axe and was gonna try the old once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year then every year technique but I feel like tung oil would build up ALOT that way. I use an old t shirt to apply, what would be better?

  • @redcanoe14
    @redcanoe14 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Boiled Linseed Oil has some accelerant in it that might be harmful with continued contact with the skin. I now use raw cut with Bio Turpentine and Pine Tar (equal parts). Pine Tar is an old Scandinavian treatment typically what they used on Nordic Skis and tool handles. I use this on axes hammers and vintage shovel handles. I apply it when the weather is hot and dry and leave it to air dry for best results. Some woods are more absorbent than others, I rub it in with a rough cloth.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Pine tar sure doesn't smell like a pine tree though! LOL

    • @redcanoe14
      @redcanoe14 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Yes, that is true, I believe it is cooked out of dead tree roots that are dug out of swamps in a big steel drum.

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      Where do you get your turnpentine and pine tar? I assume you have found some sources that don't have nasty chemicals in them.
      I have been using Barlean's flax oil out of the grocery store and for the last 10 years seems to work well - I recently ran across a YT channel called Earth and Flax Studio that is selling a purified linseed oil that looks interesting.

  • @AmericanWilderness
    @AmericanWilderness 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    We've only ever used BLO, we'll have to try out the 50/50 mix. Great video Dave!

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hey Guys! good to hear from ya'. Give the stuff a try. I used it all the time on shovels and it gets into the wood better...IMO.

  • @ColossalSwordFormAndTechnique
    @ColossalSwordFormAndTechnique 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I use choji oil. It does the job. A few coats in a few days. And watch the handle shine and become and feel more sturdy.

  • @Limicola1
    @Limicola1 11 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Thanks for the comparison. Very interesting. Have you tried thinning either linseed oil with turpentine?

  • @tshusker
    @tshusker 6 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Raw flaxseed oil is all I've used through the years, and love the final product!

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      .........interesting. Never tried flax seed oil.

    • @onZampie
      @onZampie 6 ปีที่แล้ว +3

      @@Bushradical Flax and lin are the same thing.

    • @USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity
      @USA-GreedyMenOfNoIntegrity 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      Flaxseed oil does not have additives or processed as much.

  • @iCanHazTwentyLetters
    @iCanHazTwentyLetters 9 หลายเดือนก่อน +1

    Thank you for testing this so I didn't need to.

  • @nealdalton4696
    @nealdalton4696 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    A follow up this summer to see how they held up would be interesting.

  • @exodortch
    @exodortch 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    BLO already has thinners in it. Typically thinner is usually added to the raw oils to aid drying and penetration.

  • @DGEO1
    @DGEO1 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    I’ve always thinned the first coat of boiled linseed oil 50/50 with mineral spirits to get it deep into the wood, followed by a seccond, and maybe a third coat with progressively less mineral spirits. Do you think there is much of a difference with the paint thinner?

  • @michalurbanful
    @michalurbanful 3 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Great comparison, thank you!

  • @Woodenarrows
    @Woodenarrows 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've recently discovered and have been using a 50/50 mix of Boiled Linseed Oil and Pine Tar. A little goes a long way. This mixture provides a little darker finish and leaves a non slip, tactile but not sticky grip. I wipe it on with my fingers, not to excess, let it sit a few hours and then wipe off all the excess again with my fingers, finishing with rag. It's a great non slick water repellent finish.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ive tried pine by itself and man it stinks! I'll try to mix it 50/50 and see how it does. I think what you describe may be that super cool finish you see on a lot of very old tools. I ve seen lots of old axes and shovel handles that had fantastic finish, and Always wondered how to reproduce that kind of finish.....maybe you have the formula.

    • @corvusduluth
      @corvusduluth 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      +Woodenarrows I have tried 50/50 Birch Tar & Raw Linseed Oil. Raw Linseed because that was what I had. Like it, slight 'tack', good grip.

  • @N8urecure
    @N8urecure 7 ปีที่แล้ว +5

    Hey Dave and yt people, so I I am a doctor practicing natural medicine and for me I would so much rather just use the substance with the least amount of added solvents and chemical compounds in favor of the initial chemistry of raw linseed oil which of course is so much better for the human body when absorbed through our skin. Granted nobody is going to send them self into severe illness just by holding and swinging an ax handle and absorbing the chemicals in the so-called boiled linseed oil or other solvents, but of course we also know the things add up, including toxic stressors to the body. Anyway, I found some raw food grade quality flaxseed oil, which as we know is linseed oil, and used this on an ax handle I had restored. In terms of its finish on the handle, it performed flawlessly. I also found that it did not take a prolonged period of time to dry. I applied it once per day for a week, once per week for a month, and a couple of times thereafter, and i felt it dried and sealed just like it should.

    • @N8urecure
      @N8urecure 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Honestly, I couldn't believe how well it dried; I was expecting results on mine like this. It was an old handle that had had a varnish on it. After I scraped off that old varnish, the handle drank up multiple applications the oil the first time I put it on there. It also ended up a delicious caramel color :)

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thats awesome. Where would you get that stuff?

    • @N8urecure
      @N8urecure 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Bushradical I just found it online. To be honest, for the price I paid I doubt it is a quality dietary item! It's on handle duty...

    • @axemaster8891
      @axemaster8891 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Great reason to use Vintage Axe Oil www.vintagetoolco.com

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@Bushradical I just buy mine in a health food co-op. The brand I use is Barlean's which I was told back in the 90s was a good company that put high quality clean oil.

  • @mattgeiger9988
    @mattgeiger9988 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    I've used boiled linseed on anything from a hammer handle to a AK furniture. I do add more about every 3 months or so, because it can go rotten after awhile

  • @shockwave6213
    @shockwave6213 4 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    The darker it is, the deeper it went. And the faster it dries, the least time it gets to soak in. I finish my rifle stocks with raw linseed for this very reason. I like them a little darker too.

  • @dewaynecummings5210
    @dewaynecummings5210 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Love you vids my friend, thanks.

  • @davej7458
    @davej7458 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    I have used raw linseed oil for years. It takes longer to apply. Use several light coats, too thick an application just gums up the surface. Let it soak in and dry a bit then rub it in with a course lint free rag. Rub hard enough to heat it up a little and smooth it out. Then put on another coat. Feels good to the hand and blisters less. Renew atleast once a year. Put a little linseed oil on the part of handle that goes into the tool when you assemble it helps it slip in and protects the hidden part of the handle. Linseed oil rags and brushes can start a fire don't wad them up. Spread them out to dry in a safe place or keep them covered with linseed oil in an air tight container.

  • @bdmenne
    @bdmenne 8 วันที่ผ่านมา

    How about mixing Raw & and little Mineral Spirits? 60/40 or 70/30?

  • @mglennon5535
    @mglennon5535 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Nice comparison. Well done! I’m a boiled man, myself.

  • @ModernGentleman
    @ModernGentleman 4 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    The raw linseed works best for soaking the axe. I do it with all my new axes. It has no additives to make it cure so it continues to soak into the wood for maximum penetration. I usually soak mine new for about a week. Take it out, let it drip dry then rub the hell out of it. Time consuming but long lasting and awesome results every time.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      awesome

    • @trevororr5494
      @trevororr5494 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

      how do you soak a axe handle? do you have tube filled with raw or?

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      @@trevororr5494 I used a PVC tube with a cap glued on one end for my shovel handles. I have shorter tube for hammer handles.
      I do them all the same year one after the other so I don't waste as much oil. Then I take leftover oil and do the wood ladder and then spread the rest on my trailer deck(redwood treated with linseed oil and 35 years old and in as good a shape as it was when it was brand new - it is going to outlast the metal). I haven't done them for 10 years - the oil treatment will hold a long time unless you leave them out in the weather.
      I used raw "flax seed oil" which is just culinary grade linseed oil. I couldn't find any raw linseed oil that was considered safe for food bowls, cutting boards, etc because they use chemical separators.
      I put the handle in and then filled up the column until I got to metal. The wood will suck up oil so you add more depending on how dry the wood is. I haven't re-done my ax handles because my grandfather and dad always kept them well oiled presumably from the 50s through the 80s and they do not get the abuse or out in the weather as much as the shovel handles. Anyway - they were in good shape and an ax handle is little bit harder because they are thicker and have more curves so you - yeah - you could end up with a big PVC pipe.
      My mattock that was way overdue for an oiling I just put upside down in the PVC pipe and far as I could (super thick neck right above the metal end) and stopped by a couple times a day and spread the oil onto the neck and the end that sticks through the metal head. I noticed the end that stuck through the metal was still sucking up oil so I put oil in a trash can lid that I shaded (so the oil wouldn't get direct sun on it) and put the tool end with the wood sticking through and propped the handle up into the sun and let it sit there for a couple weeks I think. It sucked a shocking amount of oil up into the handle
      Important point though - when you soak them they suck up a LOT of oil so for one you can make the handle heavier and throw off the balance a little bit - I've had a couple tools that had great balance and I kind of messed it up by soaking them too long. Seemed to me a 3 or 4 hours was good enough without sucking up so much oil.
      But more importantly you need to wipe the handles down obviously after you take them out but then you have to CONTINUE to do that as the oil will keep weeping while it is drying especially if they are out in the sun. Otherwise you will end up with these little bulbs of oil kind of like sap droplets they will get gummy and impossible to wipe off and then eventually harden and the only way you can get them off is to sand them off. I always do this in the summer at a time when I'm going to be around the property a lot for a couple weeks so I can wipe them down 3x a day and spread the oil where it is weeping out onto the rest of the handle.
      It takes a LONG time to dry but when they are done they are beautiful and it holds up a long time. They get a flexibility (?) to them that bare wood or surface treatments doesn't have . I'm pretty sure it makes them way stronger because I often break other people's shovel handles when I'm using them but rarely break my own (in fact now that I am older I haven't broken one in 15 years). I used to have a landscaping company and so I bought some shovels to use on the jobsite after our family shovels kept getting stolen. I broke those shovel handles one after the other. I think part of it is crappier wood than handles from the 50s but I did keep some of those shovels and soaked them and then it seemed like I didn't break them any more (??) maybe it is the soaked handle (?) They feel different after they are soaked - like I said they have a flexibility and bounce that bare wood doesn't have.
      Remember that oily rags can theoretically cause fires - though I actually am skeptical that true raw linseed oil will actually ignite - it dries way slower. I never take chances though - I leave the rags out where the tools are drying over a gravel area I have well away from the garage.
      Flax oil doesn't have any warning on the bottle about not put oily rags in the trash.

  • @pygmymarmoset4007
    @pygmymarmoset4007 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks this is exactly what i needed. and along with Imightberiding's input, which essentially agrees with your final assessment but for different reasons, i'm confident i'm doing the right thing.

  • @jeffreyhill1011
    @jeffreyhill1011 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Old grey hair I know he would take the pommel end and stand the handle up in raw for about half a day. Swore by this with the idea that it would suck oil way down deep into the core of the handle. No clue if there is a gram of truth to this but the guy knew his shit about more things than most folk I've known. I did change from boiled to raw after splitting with his axe for a day. Jeez Louise you ain't kidding about it feeling like grandpa's old axe. Like a Werther's Original in front of a fireplace and a good story sitting on pa pas lap level of comfort

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      I did that on and old mattock whose handle had gotten a touch dry this last year - put the oil in the bottom of a trash can lid and then stood the handle up. The bottom was shaded but I intentionally left the handle sticking up in the sun thinking it might help pull the oil up. CRAZY how much it sucked up. It was still sucking up oil when we had a rain storm come in so I had to stop the process but I had it out there for weeks and I had to add oil again and again and it made it noticeably heavier.
      I used culinary grade flax oil (Barlean's)
      There is nothing like the feeling of a handle or ladder rung that has a ton of linseed oil soaked in and dried. It has a spring and strength that wood alone doesn't have

  • @StevieReed265
    @StevieReed265 ปีที่แล้ว

    I scrolled down a bit and didn't see these questions so I guess I'm gonna be the dumb one, You sealed these AFTER you put the head on, and you DIDN'T SEAL the head end, so what keeps the wood from rotting inside the head? I get that a lot here in the humid Mississippi air.

  • @calvinboondoggle2564
    @calvinboondoggle2564 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Thanks Dave. I'm gonna try the raw linseed oil. I've used it boiled and mixed 50/50 with pine tar thinned with turpentine (pine tar being not just for horses' hooves, but for baseball bats, also, I guess...got the idea from Logcabinlooms, if you're unfamiliar). I love the look and the feel of it (and the wonderful pine tar smell, of course). But I think I'll be trying the raw linseed like you've shown us on my next cheapie Collins (20 dollar axe becomes a gem, lol). Thanks so much for the schooling. :D Always appreciated.

    • @calvinboondoggle2564
      @calvinboondoggle2564 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ah...one more thing...per Logcabinlooms advise, I had used a torch to heat up the handle to help the pine tar/boiled linseed oil mixture into the wood grain. Sorry if I've blahblahblahd'd more than acceptable, btw.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Let me know how it turns out!

  • @WestcountyWill
    @WestcountyWill 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Can you do a combination where you use the 50/50 BLO mix first to get it to soak in deep and then use the raw on top of that before the 50/50 mix dries?

  • @mandtgrant
    @mandtgrant 11 หลายเดือนก่อน +2

    Pure tung oil (not tung oil finish; it usually contains NO tung oil) it the best, and must durable. Best looking too. First coat cut 50% with turpentine, then full strength the next day. Rub it off fully after 30 mins. 3rd day see if it will take more; if it does, it will be a tiny amount. Same process for raw linseed works well too. 1 part oil (either type) 1 part turpentine, and on part bees wax heated together makes a great handle, steel, and leather protector.

  • @BrodyToYou
    @BrodyToYou 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I used 50/50 ( boiled linseed oil and extra virgin olive oil) on a carpenter's axe and it looks amazing.

    • @bronzesnake7004
      @bronzesnake7004 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      "extra virgin" how redundant! lol!

  • @petemcpherson2259
    @petemcpherson2259 7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    I've never used anything but the boiled, I might just give the 50/50 a shot though, if it has a wooden handle I coat it, lol, just wish a lot of manufacturers would stop varnishing their handles, way too much sanding for my liking, thanks for the video.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +6

      Yeah , I'm with you. Why don't they just dip their handles in BLO and skip all the varnish crap.

    • @BigHoss1776
      @BigHoss1776 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      I watched a skilled man use a drawing knife on a new ax handle to shave off the factory varnish. Afterwards he cleaned the area with sandpaper and applied boiled linseed oil. Also during his demonstration you mentioned if you don’t have a drawing knife you can careful use a sharp knife or utility razor blades and sand when you’re done. I tried it out on a cheap tomahawk I was given. I used a utility razor and scraped off most of the factory varnish with ease and then sanded the area. Any of the mixtures would’ve been fine. I just let it sit in the garage and when I thought about it wiped it down and added another coat. It makes a big difference in the feel of the handle over slippery varnish

  • @pacificbushcraftandfirecra6358
    @pacificbushcraftandfirecra6358 7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Big fan of boiled linseed oil, I use it on all my handles once a year. I feel like the only reason to cut it with thinner
    would be if the handles were on tools that could be exposed to grease/oil. But I may be wrong. Thoughts? TFS

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +4

      Here TSP! I think the 50/50 "weatherproofs" maybe a little better, because it "soaks" deeper into the wood. Its an old farmer thing.....

    • @axemaster8891
      @axemaster8891 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      All BLO is toxic... but one. www.vintagetoolco.com

  • @garymalone6712
    @garymalone6712 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Would raw with paint thinner be a good choice

    • @Master...deBater
      @Master...deBater ปีที่แล้ว

      It might penetrate a little deeper, and dry a little quicker. I just heat the oil up to the point were I can just barely handle it...seems like it penetrates a lot deeper than room temp oil.

  • @bigoldgrizzly
    @bigoldgrizzly 20 วันที่ผ่านมา +1

    All these will work well but be sure to scrub off excess hard with a rag, before applying next coat. The trick is to have all the finish in the wood, and none on top of the wood

  • @philips4074
    @philips4074 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I was wondering if tung oil is a good thing to use on axe handles. I have used it on furniture that I have made. Thanks!

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      It probably is, but I have no experience with it.

  • @CloudfeatherRusticWorks
    @CloudfeatherRusticWorks 3 ปีที่แล้ว +7

    I switched to RLO after the BLO kept gooping up in my wood polish mixes. I absolutely love it. Takes a little getting used to in the application, but I think it's worth it. Plus, no more gooping up. :)

  • @Kirk-sn8hc
    @Kirk-sn8hc 10 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Great stuff!

  • @dfcvda
    @dfcvda 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    how often do you have to do this to walking sticks (Blackthorn)

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I wouldn't have a valid opinion and that. Probably just re-coat the wood until it docent want to soak much oil up.

  • @stevegalloway3747
    @stevegalloway3747 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Really useful video and comments. Answers everything I need to know, so thanks ....and BTW, who's the soundtrack?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Its a band I used to play in

    • @stevegalloway3747
      @stevegalloway3747 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Bushradical really neat tune :-)

  • @philcarr7969
    @philcarr7969 6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Here, boiled linseed oil is easier to get - any hardware store. I always figured anything is better than nothing, and the boiled linseed oil has always delivered for me.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sure, use what you have!

    • @garethbaus5471
      @garethbaus5471 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      When looking for a finish for my eagle project I couldn't find any linseed oil(boiled or otherwise), and used a manufactured drying oil instead in the hopes that it will soak in.

  • @hgps01
    @hgps01 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dave. Excellent video. What oil would you use on other weathered shovel, rakes and spade wooden handles that have seen exposure to the elements. need best choice that will not necessarily restore the wood but preserve the remaining wood. Thanks for the best learning vids I've seen.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for the vote of confidence. As for the handles, I would sand them with some 120-220 sandpaper just to get rid of whatever comes off the wood , then I would use boiled lin seed oil cut with some paint thinner. I was a concrete contractor for years and thats what I used all the time on wood handles

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      If you can turn them upside down in a PVC pipe with a cap glued on one end. Put the shovel in down to the metal and then fill up the column with flax seed oil (culinary grade linseed oil) or raw linseed oil. I would use a high end brand so you know you are actually getting linseed oil because I guarantee the cheap brands are putting cheaper oils in (look up all the "olive" oil brands that aren't olive oil when actually tested)
      Leave it there for awhile (you will note the oil level going down as the handle sucks it up).
      Then wipe the shovel handle down and put it in the shade - as the temperature changes it will weep out some oil so you will have to continue to wipe it down a couple times a day - just briefly - 5 seconds just to spread the weeping oil out onto the rest of the handle. If you leave the weeping spots they will dry into a little hard nodule or wart kind of like pine sap if you have ever seen that.
      Anyway - amazing how nice and strong the handles can be even if they are pretty damaged. If the wood is grayed out it will make fairly dark. If it's dry but not too grayed out it will give it a beautiful deep brown color. Man, I love how linseed oil looks on wood - sometimes I feel bad using my shovels they are so beautiful (haha)
      It takes months to truly cure all the way into the handle because the oil will soak way into the cracks and dry wood and it is a slow process for that oil to polymerize.

  • @FrankEdavidson
    @FrankEdavidson 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Is that Ash or Hickory? Leave oils days, weeks to dry. I do my handles end of season then a couple of weeks before start of season.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      All three were Hickory I believe. I have a few ash handles but they are homemade.

  • @scottcates
    @scottcates 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I wonder how long raw linseed oil takes to dry to the 100% polymerized point.

    • @Master...deBater
      @Master...deBater ปีที่แล้ว +2

      Several months unless it's really hot and in the sun. But don't worry about it...I just put it on hot and let it sit overnight then wipe excess off. You can use the tool whenever...just add more oil whenever you have down time. Leaves the handles feeling velvety...and won't hurt your skin! I use it on all my wood handles...especially knives for food prep.

    • @scottcates
      @scottcates ปีที่แล้ว +1

      @@Master...deBater Excellent. Thank you.

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      I have used it quite a bit and that is my impression too (months). Especially if it is dry wood and you soak it.

  • @blairphelps7215
    @blairphelps7215 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    A+ for the Boss Ross reference.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      .....happy little axe handles.

  • @pjwillsr
    @pjwillsr 4 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Don't neglect the top of the axe...keeps the head tight.

  • @grizztough4091
    @grizztough4091 4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    does wood stain provide any protection to the wood? and like LIN OIL, would stain also cause the wood to expand a bit, tightening up a loose head ?

  • @roelfindoors6767
    @roelfindoors6767 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I used turpentine/linseed mixture to coat a thin wooden bow. Starting with 90/10, to really let it soak in. I ended up with a 0/100% for the final finish. it takes a lot of time, but it gave me a perfect finish

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'm gonna wright that down. Thanks.

    • @Bkellyusa
      @Bkellyusa 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      The linseed oil and turpentine mix is an old timers trick. Supposedly if you mix the first coat and let it soak in a solution of it it will go all the way into the handle. Reducing the percentage of turpentine on subsequent coats seem like the way to go. I first heard about this on Skilcults channel but it took me a long time to find out more about it. I am going to try it next week.

  • @davidderr2662
    @davidderr2662 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have 3 different style axe heads to do.I trust your test because I have never done it. My question is why not coat the handles before putting the heads on? Rot, or create a bad fit between wood and steel? Thanks. Love your videos. Seems like your a no b.s. guy. Refreshing. Dave

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Dave. You could coat the handle before you hang the head...but you would have to have the fit right before you coat it.
      I think it would be nothing but beneficial.

    • @bigoldgrizzly
      @bigoldgrizzly 2 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Bushradical One problem you may get with oiling the end of the handle is that, even with aggressive striking on the handle, the head can just slip off and not bite on as it should. Less likely to happen if the oil finish has completely dried before fitting. If you run across such difficulty, start driving the wedge, invert and strike, drive wedge a bit further, invert and strike again.... eventually you will get a really good fit. Free oil that squeezes out of the wood lubricates the handle/head joint and it drives further on.

  • @stephensgate1
    @stephensgate1 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks Dave. I just did all mine last week. Keep'em coming brother! -Stephen, Ohio

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks BuckeyeBushcraft L. I appreciate the comment ! Cheers!

  • @kellyjenkins3965
    @kellyjenkins3965 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have been watching lots of your and Mrs. Radical’s content for two months now. Super great stuff!!! You were my favorite team on season 4 of alone.
    So I bought an axe off Craigslist for $15 (he only want $10 but he seemed nice). The axe is just a used Lowe’s axe. Nothing special for a guy that only use wood in my fire pit.
    Question is, why does the axe head look wet and smell like motor oil? I wiped most of it off. Is that a good thing?
    I also just watched this video and wanted to ask how to clean up the handle (or not) before putting raw or boiled linseed oil on the handle.
    Up where the handle enters the axe head there is some motor oil form the axe head. Will that affect anything?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for watching Alone. As for the axe, I'm sure its just fine, I would just use it and enjoy

  • @tmsaskg
    @tmsaskg 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Bathe/soak wood in raw linseed oil and thinner mix first 1:1, then 2:1, 5:1, 10:1 mix ratios (always add more oil to the mix) for as long as you can bathe the wood in it. If you canmot bathe the part then rub in and layer the mix thick onto surface with a brush, when it starts to gum the surface wipe it off immediately. Wait to dry, then get the next more oily mix treatment until the wood cannot soak in any more.
    Before oiling it's better to treat planed material, if sanded, do not go to fine sanding before the first oiling, leave the wood fibres more open to hidration. After 1-2 treatment and complete dryout you can sand it fine and do the oiling again.

  • @tyanwalker7728
    @tyanwalker7728 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Dave, what brand of handle do you like to buy, and where do you buy them?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      I don't really have a place I buy handles from. I haven't needed one in a few years

  • @adambilge2834
    @adambilge2834 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Which one would you recommend for my cheap guitar kit. It's basswood body and maple neck?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I have no idea.....Sorry.

  • @rp6879
    @rp6879 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    Did you prep and sand the handle whatsoever?

  • @Sultan-fn4bv
    @Sultan-fn4bv 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Hi Bushradical,
    I am thinking using Raw Linseed Oil but am not sure if I will have a sticky handle after applying it.
    Do you know of any ways to avoid a sticky handle with Raw Linseed Oil?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      I would guess dont oversaturate it. I use raw lindseed oil all the time on guitar fretboards and its never sticky....but its used lightly

    • @Sultan-fn4bv
      @Sultan-fn4bv 4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks for a well exspland response
      Cheers mate 👍

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      It just needs to dry long enough - raw takes a long time and a loooonngg time if you put it on thick but it is superior in my experience

  • @slumdogjoe
    @slumdogjoe 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Thanks a ton for this video...I was going to finish an axe handle now and had only raw linseed oil at hand. Glad that I made the right choice!

  • @Smokey66s
    @Smokey66s 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Paint thinner with boiled or raw linseed oil?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Boiled or raw

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      In this video i'm using it with Boiled .

  • @SkeleCCXL
    @SkeleCCXL 3 ปีที่แล้ว +3

    One flaw in this test is that you're using the same method and giving the same curing time for 3 different mixtures
    I imagine to reach their full potential they'd each need a different treatment

  • @gobangs1117
    @gobangs1117 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I like boiled for any wooden handle.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Probably the best overall option.

  • @ryc3rz
    @ryc3rz 6 ปีที่แล้ว +6

    Raw linseed oil needs couple days at LEAST to dry properly

    • @jeffa847
      @jeffa847 19 วันที่ผ่านมา

      In my experience it won't truly cure for over a month. That's what makes it better - has longer to soak way into the wood

  • @Sultan-fn4bv
    @Sultan-fn4bv 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    Did you find you Raw Linseed Oil being sticky

  • @andrewsarles3520
    @andrewsarles3520 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Bob Ross! I love it!

  • @ajaxtelamonian5134
    @ajaxtelamonian5134 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    Raw for me I think. Did use Teak oil as well but that ran out and I thought I'd try the raw linseed and the drying time isn't actually a huge amount longer as in days rather than weeks. Also raw Linseed is the classic in England as it's used for Cricket bats.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Right on. I agree , the raw feels the best to me.

  • @wac74
    @wac74 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    great vid, thanks

  • @arctichare8185
    @arctichare8185 4 ปีที่แล้ว

    From this perhaps this would be the ideal way to treat a new handle: 1) apply linseed oil mixed with paint thinner, 2) after that dries, apply a coat of boiled linseed oil, and 3) apply a coat of raw linseed oil.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  4 ปีที่แล้ว

      Maybe Try it and let me know how it works out. Thanks

    • @klimbien
      @klimbien 3 ปีที่แล้ว

      exact same thought

  • @NGMonocrom
    @NGMonocrom 3 ปีที่แล้ว +4

    Raw linseed oil for me. One coat, set it aside to dry for a full day. _Maybe_ a bit longer.
    I don't mess with boiled linseed oil. Raw is safe. Boiled, isn't. Those with more than a bit of experience using it, know what I mean.

  • @dfcvda
    @dfcvda 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Canadian?

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      No. I lived in the upper peninsula for a while years ago and I picked up saying Eh! And it just sounds right to me. Ive never shook the habit.

  • @QuantumMech_88
    @QuantumMech_88 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    Great experiment and much appreciated . I'll send you a pint of my top secret wood treatment . It's only $500 per pint .

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      lol.

    • @QuantumMech_88
      @QuantumMech_88 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ok ... I'll cut you a deal and only $350 per pint . Having a hard time selling this stuff .

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      I think for that kind of money I'll buy 3 dozen new handles....but thanks for the offer.

  • @TheVilkas666
    @TheVilkas666 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Show them after 1 year of use

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      I'll try to. One is up in Alaska so it'll be in the spring at least.

  • @qwertykevin1
    @qwertykevin1 5 ปีที่แล้ว

    Now why is paint thinner even considered???

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Its an old farmers method.

    • @rowey1992
      @rowey1992 5 ปีที่แล้ว

      Raw timber soaks up anything you put on it. The theory is that it thins the oil out, and lets it penetrate easier, deeper and quicker into the wood. Most people start with something like 60% turps/thinners & 40 % oil. For the second coat reverse it to 60% oil & 40% turps/thinners and for final coat just apply 100% oil.

  • @johnmutton799
    @johnmutton799 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    when you have put the boiled linseed oil on. mix 40% linseed oil, 40%beeswax, and 20% parrafin wax. heat in a pan and mix. leave to cool then apply, leave for a short while then buff with cloth!

  • @markhaywood7307
    @markhaywood7307 6 หลายเดือนก่อน

    I don't know what you mean by paint thinner.
    so no offence intended.
    "I" use boiled linseed oil thinned 1:1 with mineral turpentine for first coat. ( This includes soaking the head and but end )
    after that i wipe down with boiled linseed oil dependant on use and how the axe is stored or any other wooden handle tool- aka outside all year or in the shed.
    if i only had raw linseed oil i would mix that 1:1 with mineral turpentine and take my chances .
    Then re-cote as required.
    seems to have worked for the last 45 years for me.

    • @escapetherace1943
      @escapetherace1943 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

      turpentine is paint thinner, friend

  • @kenporter5022
    @kenporter5022 2 ปีที่แล้ว

    I tried to buy raw linseed oil today and was told it can’t be sold in California any longer! Plenty of BLO though.... but that’s about right I guess!

  • @zacharyriley4122
    @zacharyriley4122 3 ปีที่แล้ว

    the thinner each coat the better.

  • @paulrward
    @paulrward 7 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Try Birchwood Casey's 'Tru-Oil' - it is a very thick BLO with dryers - you can get it at any gun shop or sporting goods shop that handles guns - You will love the hard, strong finish.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Hey PW. Ive heard of Birchwood Casey's before but have never seen it or used it. I'll check into it. Thanks for the tip!

    • @bighill5680
      @bighill5680 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Agree, I used Tru-Oil to finish an old beat up Mosin Nagant rifle stock. Four coats of Tru-Oil, with fine steel wool between each coat. Now that old battle rifle is absolutely gorgeous.

    • @calvinboondoggle2564
      @calvinboondoggle2564 7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ah...I've used it to re-finish gun stocks! Never considered it for Axe/Sledge handles...genius!

  • @garycarbonneau499
    @garycarbonneau499 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Next time make sure you coat the axe heads also!

  • @13bravoredleg18
    @13bravoredleg18 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I cut my boiled linseed oil with mineral spirits. Thin coat that dries fast!

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Ive done that , and liked the way it turns out and soaks in deep.

  • @timreid9556
    @timreid9556 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    "beat the Devil out of that brush"

  • @papuchu
    @papuchu 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    i think what made the real difference is you was singing while aplying the raw linseed oil

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thats the secret step that makes the whole thing.

  • @briannicholson5917
    @briannicholson5917 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    I have used boiled linseed oil for many years. Probably since mid 70s. I have used it to preserve wooden tools and some metal items, such as, old spurs that I've found, and hung on the wall. Mostly I've used it on fancy gunstocks that I've made. But on a gunstock you only run in a few small drops, at a time, and wait 12 to 14 days, then do it again, at least 5 times. Sometimes 10 or more. The finish it all in the wood. No build up. It is fantastic. I have used a few synthetic finishes, and even tung oil. But boiled linseed oil is the best, bar none.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      Thanks for the tip. I re-finished an old gun stock with BLO once but didn't know to do it a little at a time. It was a 1946 remington 510 target master single shot .22

  • @johngritman4840
    @johngritman4840 7 ปีที่แล้ว +1

    Well Dave when I was a young teenager we did something different. 1/3 raw linseed oil, 1/3 turps, 1/3 boiling water. Weird isn't it? I thought so but who was I to argue with my beloved Grandfather. In any event by the time I was tasked with caring for the tools, he had been doing it for 20 years. The method of application was 0000 steel wool dipped in the solution and then rub the handles of the axe, adze, scythe, high wheel cultivator, shovels, spades and rakes. By the time I got to the end of the row I only had to wait a half hour and then I took a piece of old Turkish towel and wiped everything down. The tools were as smooth as a baby's butt. I was scolded the first year when I pulled out a pair of gloves: "What's the problem? Didn't you properly treat the handles in the fall and spring?" Back on the bench went the gloves. I NEVER got a blister. I think the hot water was to enable me to get the dirt off the handles. I don't know, it was 60 years ago. But I really thank you for the video. I am retired and partially disabled so I have new tools that need the handles to be sanded and then oiled. I will use raw linseed oil and turps to cut it a bit to start and then just raw -- but I will stick with 0000 steel wool. I built a 12' bookcase unit and finished it with Danish oil. After 10 years we had to do some work on the room so I disassemble the unit and moved it to the garage. There was sun fading on it but I took that Danish oil and, yes, 0000 steel wool and put three coats on it. WOW!!! Not really good for tools but great for furniture. As to the fellow who would not use boiled linseed oil, I thank him for his comments. The beauty of these "teaching" channels is the warm exchange of ideas an opinions. Thanks again.

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  7 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thats a cool story. I may try that someday. Once in a while you run across an old shovel with the BEST finish to the wood....and I always wonder what the old folks used to make that good of a finish......Maybe it was your recipe. As for gloves I never use them either way, lol. The palms of my hands look like the bottoms of my heels too, but I'm just not a glove guy. Thanks for the info.

  • @Thedoug369
    @Thedoug369 3 ปีที่แล้ว +2

    Cringe. Uses a brush on the two oils that aren't poisonous and gets the nasty boiled linseed oil all over the hands. Dude, wear gloves when you mess with that stuff. Better yet, don't mess with it at all. It's full of solvents, heavy metals and various other unhealthy shit. Use the raw linseed oil or raw flax oil. Same same.

  • @Master...deBater
    @Master...deBater 7 ปีที่แล้ว

    I allow the handle to drink up as much raw linseed oil as it will take!!!

    • @FrankEdavidson
      @FrankEdavidson 5 ปีที่แล้ว +1

      I much prefer raw linseed oil as it gives better penetration and long-lasting water protection. It's nice to apply and no nasty fumes or smells. Once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year then once a year thereafter. 500mL did about 10 of my old long-handled garden tools first and second years.

  • @robertgraham1626
    @robertgraham1626 4 หลายเดือนก่อน

    Flax oil.

  • @jeffnotti9932
    @jeffnotti9932 6 ปีที่แล้ว

    why paint thinner and not turpentine? why not fix'n wax, bees wax, turpentine and linseed oil, an equal mesaure of each has been used as a wood finish for a very long time. linseed oil takes 3 days to dry .. i bet if you use a thin mix to get the finish to sink in deeper, then raw on top.. will give you a good finish..then if you need it to be a little sticky,, after it is all dried out.. a little bees wax on top .. now you are water resistant.. all 3 finishes work.. seal up those end grains...

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Sounds like a good way to go.

    • @jeffnotti9932
      @jeffnotti9932 6 ปีที่แล้ว

      @@Bushradical yea it is all wood finishing... i am sure as you showed.. linseed oil has been used for centuries.. bees wax mixed with all kinds of things, pine rosin (yea the stuff u use on your violin bow) linseed oil, olive oil, who knows whale oil (Whale Oil Beef Oct) man has been very inventive with wood finishing and preserving. Maintenance is the number one chore for every tool imaginable. Keep up the good stuff you do man... you have been well taught.. i pick up all kinds of little things that i add to my knowledge... The cabin thing was really really good... J

    • @Bushradical
      @Bushradical  6 ปีที่แล้ว

      Thanks Jeff.