Best end grain cutting board video on the internet, hands down. (I’ve watched 20+ in the past two months). Thank you so much Tom. My dad is turning 80 this month and I’m going home to see him. We’re going to make an end grain cutting board together and your video will be the one to guide us. Thanks again!
Thank you Brandon, so glad you enjoyed it. That was one of the first videos I made and I had no idea it would be well received. I’d love to hear how your experience making the board with your Dad turns out, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 🎊 🎄
Tom, this is absolutely the most detailed and instructive lesson on this type of board. Camera work and editing is so professional. Thank you for taking the time to upload the episodes, have learned so much about end grain characteristics. Have subbed, regards from Victoria Australia.
Whole heartdly agree with everyone who said this has to be one of the best and most detailed end grain cutting board video on TH-cam. I have watched cojntless videos over th past 6-9 months already and just finished up a batch of 6 boards for gifting this xmas. But sadly only today your videos came up on my feed. Examples of details i have not found on any other video: placing each strip one by one on the gle clamps, hand planing to avoid sanding time, sparse use kf glue, focus on lowering material loss...
Hey Tom, just finished watching as I am about to make a cutting board using walnut for my nephew and his wife....great step by step! Merry Christmas 7 years later!
Tom: This is one of the best videos I have seen on "woodworking" on youtube. You explained every step and shared your reasoning for why you did it "that way". I have learned a lot....I almost think I might get brave enough to head down to my dad's shed/workshop and give it a try. Thank you so much for sharing your craft and expertise.
Thanks Tom for Part 2. Again I totally agree with previous comments, that your’s are the best vids on making chopping boards on You Tube bar none ! Excellent, sincere thanks. Peter Atkin Sheffield. UK.
Thank you Peter! It’s funny I’ve been designing and making furniture for thirty years and my first cutting board videos seem to be most popular 😎 I do appreciate so much your kind comments, especially since in the last few years I am focused primarily on teaching, through TH-cam videos and a public TV series here in the US. Coincidentally, I just last evening did a “livestream” video on making a smaller version of the same cutting board which you might enjoy - it is the most recent post on our Epic Woodworking channel. Being as I see you are in the UK, viewing them live would be a late night for you! Thanks again, Tom
Greeting my South Australia. I am a recent follower of your channel, after it 'randomly' popped up whilst watching other related videos. Your experience in teaching clearly comes across in your presentation. After many years of being rather an 'impractical' person, over the years I have increased my confidence in my own car maintenance, and after many years making a complete mess of wood projects (I look back on the shabby work and feel embarrassed), I got into it seriously early 2020, but starting out woodturning, and extended myself from there. I really got into making turning platters, and dip bowl/platters with cocentric seperate rings for meats, crackers etc, and then moved onto some cutting boards...until things stopped. Unfortunately, due to health reasons, I have done little the past 12 months, and have only just got back into doing a few things, but one of my 'issues' are times of cognitive problems or 'brain fog' whereby I get easily frustrated...or simply can't focus at all, which really 'cramps my style'. I have always watched woodwork videos, even if I had not the ability or enthusiasm to ACTUALLY do something. As such, I have a lot of 'stock' in storage which was supposed to be used to make desks, tables, bowls and platters etc. Oh, well, just keep on keeping on, I guess. I start small, like making pen blanks, or cutting up wood into smaller slabs. I do what makes me feel 'happy' at the time, and sometimes that leads me on to bigger projects. Keep up the great work Tom. 🙂. What is the best way to contact you for questions, or suggestions?
Thank you for your kind words and sharing a bit of your story. Sounds like you have made some nice things in a relatively short time. For my hobby when I’m away from woodworking I’ve enjoyed fixing and maintaining my car…watching and learning from TH-cam videos too 😎 Anyway, I hope you will stay with it too in your shop as you can. Sorry to hear about your health issues. Thanks for reaching out all the way from Australia. It’s nice to know you found something of value in our videos. The best place to connect is through our website epicwoodworking.com, so feel free to check that out. Thanks again, and all the best to you, Tom
What a pleasure it is, privilege really, to watch and learn from a master craftsman like you. Thank you for taking the time to explain and illustrate each step along the way. This project is such a great teaching tool because it incorporates nearly every skill necessary to become a more proficient woodworking craftsman, from preparing rough lumber, to squaring it up, to the use of power and hand tools, to order of process, to care and safety. Beyond all that it is just enjoyable and inspirational to follow along as a true master pliés his craft. This project is the first I’ve seen of your work and I am going to subscribe and enjoy watching all your previous and future projects. Thanks again ver much!
Thank you for the kind words Bill, that means a lot to me. I love sharing the craft these days, and the more I do the more I find myself wanting to learn and experience…even after 32 years at this 😎. Thank you for watching and being part of our generous community! 👍
Thank you so much Harley! I have been from designing and making custom furniture full-time for the last 25 years to full-time teaching, here in my shop and online. So to receive a comment like yours in the early going means a lot toward making me feel I'm on the right track. I love "passing it on", and would do it for nothing if I could. You should be seeing a lot more videos released this year. Thanks again! Tom
At the start i thought: "this is the clasical guy that only use 3 power tools" but i have to agree that surprise me that is the only guy in youtube that plane a big end grain surface(what actually was what i was looking for) so... you have my respect
Thank you Andrei. Yes, I love hand tools and using them whenever it makes sense. In this case I know most hobby woodworkers don’t own a large sander machine, and it was a good opportunity to show the features of a low angle jack plane. Thanks for you good words! Tom
This is a school example how a good video should be done. Even a beginner will understand how its made step by step. No bullshit music, bullshit talking just a very informativ video how you make a quality produkt. Would love to have this cutting board in my collection of great tools in my kitchen.
Hi Tom ! Just wanted to thanks you for sharing this with us. I really enjoyed watching you making that project. I feeled like at school learning welding with that teacher I had, you reminded me of him. I can feel the love you put into your work. Plus all the chunk of wisdom you give while working and why you do something in that particular way. Thanks Tom :)
Simon L Thank you Simon, I really appreciate you taking the time to leave such an affirming comment...makes me feel like I'm doing the right thing! There are some new things coming you might like too...if you follow me at my website epicwoodworking.com, you will be among the first to know when I announce them. Thanks again! Tom
Thanks for the early Christmas present! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! Absolutely the best video I've come across, and I have been watching many. All I wanted to do is build a cutting board, I didn't realize that there were so many important steps in production a quality cutting board! I'm so happy that I came across your channel, after watching, pausing to take notes, I feel confident that I can build a nice quality cutting board thanks to your well explained video!
Thanks Michael, so glad you enjoyed it and found it instructive for doing great work. Most of my experience comes from learning from my mistakes so I’m happy to help you avoid a few while on the path to doing nice work. Thanks again, See you next time! Tom
Hey Tom, thanks for the lesson. I have watched many you tube videos where they were a personal testement to the instructor. You explained what you were doing and showed us how and why you were doing it. Very informative. I believe I can get into my workshop and have a couple of my grandsons doing this shortly with hopefully great results.
ProudVOLSfan Thank you Vols fan! I am really glad to know you enjoyed it...thanks for taking the time to let me know 👍 You may be interested in a special announcement we will be making very soon which we will announce first to our followers on the mailing list at epicwoodworking.com Thanks again! Tom
Thank you so much for your attention to detail.Your videos are always so instructive. Many of the techniques are applicable to other projects I have done.
Thank you! I just use whatever method seems to make the most sense for the purpose. Sometimes I’ll used the sander and sometimes I’ll hand plane depending on the situation. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
I’m not sure what you mean, a countertop you made…markings you are unsure of? Most likely cause of marks on the surface from a relatively new end grain countertop would be glue spots that got into the end grain during glue-up. Could this be the issue? You can connect with us through epicwoodworking.com 👍
Hey Tom. I'm new to your channel. I have made and sold many end grain cutting boards in my career. I have never heard of someone using a low angle jack plane on the end grain a after drum sanding. Very smart! I might steal that idea from you in time. Great idea. Also, you will stop all tearout from scraping or planing if you chamfer the short edges. That will allow you to send it through the planer or hand plane without having to flip it. Thanks for the insight!
Thank you, but I would defer to you as the expert :) Thanks also for the champhering tip, I’ve never tried that sending it through the planer, I’ll try it next time, how heavy a champher do you use to run through the planer? (I don’t make a lot, just for gifts occasionally and good way to use small cutoffs). I just left a heavy 80 grit on the drum sander for the video, and found skim planing git rid of the deep scratches in the end grain pretty efficiently so it was quicker to sand to clear with the orbital. But as you probably know, the plane has to be tuned up and dialed in for end grain line this. Thanks again! Tom
@@EpicWoodworking absolutely. Honestly idk if my hand plane tuning skills are up to par at the moment. I might need to wait some time for it. I have a Rotex so that usually makes it a little bit easier for me on the rotary mode. And surprisingly the chamfer doesn't need to be large at all. Well... Let me say, I've only planed end grain on my helical head planers. But I've seen MTMwood and others plane end grain with straight knives. With my helical head, if I literally have the slightest chamfer, like 1/16" it seems to be sufficient. Kinda like the method of using blue tape on holes before drilling to reduce tearout. Doesn't have to be too much support, but a little goes a long way. And also, whenever I am routing an end grain board I actually have to turn the end grain board up on its side or else the tearout is always a chance. But turning it on its side gives very minimal tearout except for super brittle woods like Zebrawood.
Mayday's Custom Woodworks Thanks! Yes, I almost mentioned the Rotex option in my earlier message. I’ve picked one up since shooting that video and imagine if I were making limited production runs of boards, that would be my choice as well. The planing can be physically tiring and with the Rotex there’s no need to stop and sharpen, a large diameter sanding area, amazingly efficient on the rotary mode and not worried about taking it out of flat being end grain. On these videos I’m often thinking about the hobbiest who likely does not have a drum sander or Rotex, but the hand planing is an acquired skill too so we choose the best option given where we are. Thanks again for the tips! All the best, Tom
Clyde Balcom Thanks, I’m glad you enjoy it! Working on putting together the funding for the next season of the “Classic Woodworking” show now. You may also be interested to know I’m live-streaming from the shop every Thursday night, calling it Shop Night Live. You can find out more at the website, epicwoodworking.com. Thanks again!
Great demonstration. I make end grain cutting boards as well. On the finishing, I apply the mineral oil to one side only and when it begins to seep through the other side, I flip the board and apply the oil so that The board is saturated all the way through.
texasaussie45 thank you! They are a lot of fun as a side project and make a great gift...even to yourself! Good tip about the mineral oil, I can’t believe how much these boards will soak up, Almost that full 16 oz bottle! I think it get almost all the way through when I start with the top, the board is nearly 2” thick, and then I apply to the back. Interesting how the capillary action is negated once you start coming from the other side since there is no air flow through. Keep up the great work yourself, and thanks again! Tom
Hi, Thank you for the excellent video. I am thinking about doing a cutting board similar to this; however, I have very simple (cheap) tools. It is nice to see that even without thousands of dollars in equipment, I have a chance to make something like what you made. You are a true craftsman and are skilled at what you do. Thank you again!
I watched this video about a year ago when I was setting up my shop and knew I had to try it. Every minute you put into this wonderful and instructional video has been great for me, a beginner, Thank You so much! I’m at the second glue up where end grain is shown and thinking about the finish. Going with mineral oil and you mentioned could also apply bees wax, which I’d like to try. I’m thinking apply the bees wax after I’ve applied the mineral oil and then buff off, is that correct?
really nice project,,, If I have one downer is it went on a bit too long and the camra was a bit too far away so couldnt see the detail, which was a bit disappoining,,, but as I said before, really nice project. One other thing or comment, you have a really good mannor about you, you come across as very gentle, relaxed and easy to listn too... Many thanks for taking the time to help all us newbies to woodworking.. Steve
steve chandler Thanks Steve, nice of you to say. And yes, my camera and editing skills could be a lot better :) I don’t know if you’ve seen it yet but I started hosting a public television show called Rough Cut with Fine Woodworking. The best part of that for me is I don’t have to set up the tripod and do my own editing! Thanks again 👍
Great pair of videos, thank you. Out of interest why didn’t you joint the to be glued edges in the final step? You’d planed it no doubt pretty true, but if done properly is that enough to get nice tight edges in the final glue up? I feel that I wouldn’t get it flat enough! Thanks
Thanks Charlie. Sorry to have missed seeing your comment earlier. I’m not sure exactly which you are referring to, but I prepared each surface as much as needed to create a great fitting glue joint. Hope that helps, thanks for watching! 👍
Tom, really liked your video. I have a question on the end grain planing. I don’t have a low angled jack plane. I do have a 5 & 5 1/2. Would there be a different technique if I used one of those planes? Thx
Thank you for doing this video. I have a question about finishing - I didn't notice you cleaning the board after sanding (some people use mineral spirits soaked in a rag, some people use other methods) before applying the mineral oil. Is it not necessary then to clean off the sawdust before applying mineral oil? Thanks again.
Thank you Fred! Given the simplicity and “food safe” quality of the mineral oil finish, I think you are quite safe to just give it a good dusting off after the final sanding. I would stay away from using mineral spirits prior to the mineral oil, as the mineral spirits are toxic and would defeat the purpose of the safe mineral oil finish. Not to mention the mineral spirit would absorb deeply into the end grain and would take forever to evaporate out. If you want to use anything prior to finish a quick alcohol rub would kill any bacteria present and quickly evaporate. Hope that makes sense and helps! 👍😎
Yes, absolutely, that will work great, and then you can skim plane and sand, or just go through the sanding grits on an orbital. Endgrain is actually easier to rout than side grain because the fibers are vertical. Hope that helps and goes well! 👍😎
Great video and I really liked the detail and time you take explaining everything. I'm heading to the shop and make one of these after I pick up a nice piece of Cherry at the local lumber yard. I am a subscriber of the Fine woodworking and going to check out your Public TV show Rough Cut.
Glad you enjoyed it Al! Those boards are a nice small project, and make great gifts...I can’t seem to keep any I make for myself. I have really enjoyed getting to know and working more closely with Fine Woodworking. You may have noticed the Adirondack on the cover of the current issue, that’s one I designed and was featured in the fourth episode. You may also like to know I just started offering live-streaming classes which, if interested, you could learn more about at epicwoodworking.com Thanks again! All the best, Tom
Beautiful cutting board Tom, looks like I have another project to put on my "to do" list. Just wondering, could you have gone from 80 to 100 to 150 grit on the drum sander and eliminated some of the hand-plane work? Also, would a regular angle plane work or would it tear out the end grain too much? Thanks for the videos
Thanks Rob, I’m glad you enjoyed it! And yes, you could say yourself some handwork and just take the cutting board smooth by sanding through the grits. If you were in production, you would definitely process the boards in that way. I like showing the hand tool option when it’s not as likely the viewers would have the larger machine like the drum sander in this case. And a regular plane would work, it would need to be well tuned. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking Thanks for the reply Tom. I'm lucky enough to have a Woodmaster drum sander in my shop, but I do need to tune up my hand planes and work on my skills.
When putting the board through the drum sander with the end grain up (part 2 of the video at the 10:15 mark), can you use 120 grit or higher instead of the 80 grit to minimize the scratch marks? Great video by the way. I am going to try this (as a beginner DIY hobbyist) with cherry and see how I do. I will need to practice using a hand plane first. Thank you again for sharing this with everyone.
Wish someone like you told me not to put end grain through a plainer a month go, that shot out of there like a bulled just below my belt, wow that smarts!
Yikes, yeah I’ve learned the hard way on many things myself! Glad you didn’t get hurt too bad. Not to invite risky methods any further, but I have heard if you pre-chamfer the back edge prior to running it through the planer, you won’t experience that kind of tear out. I’ve used this this method effectively while hand planing, but have not tried it myself running through a thickness planer. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking I have used my thickness planer on end-grain cutting boards without problems. First, I do not recommend doing so with a planer that has conventional knives. I have a DeWalt running a carbide helical head at 179 cuts per inch, and when the cutters reach the cross grain I don't lower more than 1/8 turn, about 128/100" at a time. There is a big difference between super-sharp carbide one-inch wide pushing back on the cutting board than up to three 13-inch wide blades hitting it all at once three times per rpm. The method described below allows the user to sneak up on the end grain. Nevertheless, I stand off to the side rather than directly in the path of any ejection possibilities. I also take care to clean the rollers before attempting to plane cross grain. I make a frame to tightly encase the cutting board by cutting plain boards (either hardwood scrap or hard "soft wood" (like Douglas Fir or sourthern yellow pine) about 1/4" thicker than the thickness of the cutting board and a little more than one foot longer than twice the length and twice the width of the cutting board. From that , cut two boards the same length as the exact width of the narrower ends. Cut the remaining board in half. Afix some 1/8" thick material that is slightly smaller than the cutting board to one side of the cutting board. Then frame the board by gluing and screwing/pin nailing the short boards tightly with clamps to the boards, with and afix the longer ones with about 3" extending from the front and back ends. The 3" extra length insures against snipe. Set the whole thing on the planer in feed and adjust the cutter height to begin cutting on the plain boards. When you get close to cutting on the cross grain, lower the cutter head in small increments. When cross grain is reached, make very shallow passes. As soon as it's flat, turn it over, remove the 1/8" material and proceed as before.
I’m puzzled by something. At 16:30 in Part 1, you emphasize jointing the previously sawn edges to get a better glue up. You even go over alternating the orientation in relation to the jointer to cancel out any error in the jointer setup in terms of the fence being even the slightest bit away from a perfect 90 degrees. However, here at 3:30 you start gluing up edges that were hand planed and then sanded. I’m certain there’s a reason for the different treatment. I just can’t figure it out. If both sides of the board were run through a drum sander before cutting the strips and flipping them on end, I would be confident that the faces glued up now were dead flat. I don’t have that level of confidence in my ability to hand plane both sides of a big board perfectly parallel. Would it be overkill to either joint the edges of the strips once more just like at 16:30 in part 1 to ensure optimal glue up?
Great videos as always. I am having a bit of difficulty with the final skim planning of the end grain using my bevel-up jack plane as you describe. My problem is the plane is not getting the standard shaving you would expect. I am getting dust with a light cut setting or plane stuttering when I increase cut depth. Likely my setup is off. Could you provide some specifics on the tuning and setup of the plane and blade you are using? Thank you!
Hi Kevin, Yes, as I think I mentioned in the video, planing end grain is the most difficult form of hand planing you can tackle. And getting the cutting edge set just right is even more critical because as you say, too light and you get just dust, too heavy it wants to chatter. In the video, I’m using the lien Nielsen number 62 low angle jack plane. I did another video where I tuneup a standard plane and my procedure for tuning the blade is very similar. Here’s the link to that one, Sharpening, Tuning, and Using a Handplane with Tom McLaughlin th-cam.com/video/LlalqBpZIJ0/w-d-xo.html Once I get the blade tuned up and back in the plane, I’ll do some test cuts on some thing like pine to be sure the shaving is even across the mouth and to the optimal depth. Then waxing the soul always helps. Good luck with it, thanks for connecting! Tom
Something happen,I'm trying to subscribe,but not allowing the red button. It,s not reacting,but I will try again other day because your patience is invaluable.
Sorry for the late reply here -- not sure what is happening there. Maybe try again now that some time has passed and see if you still have the issue. Thanks for trying!
I would use just plunge rout using a 1/4”, or 3/8” round nose router bit with a fence holding it a little less than an inch from the edge. Thanks, have fun with it! Tom
Tom, quick question. I just finished the cutting board yesterday. It came out beautiful. It’s amazing how silky smooth end grain can be. Now, I noticed today there was a slight cup in the board now? Could it be from using hard pine that was sitting in a log pile covered for four years or maybe from making it over the past week in a cool garage shop then bringing up into a warm/ dry house? Right away I brought back down to shop and put in the end vice to flatten again. This board was dead flat after planing? Should I bring up into the kitchen and settle out (maybe weighted own for a few weeks?). Or maybe add a strong back to underside? Or should I have let the wood acclimate once I split from the wood pile? ....so much for quick question..lol. Other than that it came out beautiful and can’t wait to make more now. Still have a lot of good size pieces of hard maple left to use. Since your my teacher now I thought you would have good insight for an amateur. You are the best! Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Bob, so happy to have you part of what I’m doing here. As to your cutting board, it is very likely the moisture content was not quite low enough, thus the wood unstable, if it came right from the log pile into the cool shop. Your suspicions are probably right that the dry house, especially this time of year, helped to bring the moisture content down and therefor the board cupped some on you. If it’s not too much or a cup, I would let it stabilize in the house, then re-flatter and finish after it had reached a settled moisture content. It’s tough to force clamp it flat, sort of like fighting the tide. Hope that helps, thanks again! Tom
@@EpicWoodworking thank you! I’ll continue to monitor and then adjust one of these days? I think I’ll also think about cutting/ splitting up the remaining logs and storing them for next winter’s work! Thanks again.
If you go clockwise with the router with the 3/8 bit after the hands (which i agree with Tom O on a reversible board but that is just preference cause you do better work than me.) you should prevent the burn. Lord, I wished I had those tools....drool.
very nice video. Do you think its a good idea to run throght a thinkness planer the edge grain board after the first glue up? Does a drum sander do a better job?
Yes, you can use a planer, but there are a few techniques you will need to use to get the best results. First it’s a good idea to glue a sacrificial piece across the back end of the cutting board (which you can simply cut off later). By backend I mean the last edge to exit the planer. This sacrificial piece will prevent the wood from tearing out the end grain fibers on your cutting board. You should also make very light passes and use nice sharp planer knives. Hope that helps! Tom
Hi Tom, I recently discovered your channel and love it! I’m just wondering what your thoughts are on sending an end grain cutting board through a planer after the second glue up? I have seen varying opinion on this. There are some woodworkers who say it should never be done, while others say it can be done by gluing sacrificial strips to avoid tearout and taking very light passes. I would appreciate to hear your thoughts on this.
Yes, I do agree if the board is thick enough, as mine is at 1 1/2” thick, it can successfully go through the thickness planer with the sacrificial piece glued in to the trailing edge...and light passes with sharp knives is recommended! Thanks, hope it goes well 👍
Hi Tom. I enjoyed this tutorial very much, you really created a beautiful work of art. It's actually almost offensive if the lucky recipient of this piece didn't use it as it's meant to be used after all the work and clearly so much pride was put into creating it. I do have one question... what are your thoughts on wiping down the board with a damp cloth during the sanding process?
righthook27 Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and the results! If I’m working on a project that will get water stain finish of some sort, I will always raise the grain prior to applying the finish by wiping with a damp rag, allowing to dry, and sanding off the raised fibers until smooth. In this case the finish was simply mineral oil and the only grain that could possibly raise is around the edges where there is vertical side grain, since grain raising is not an issue on end grain. Hope that answers it, thanks again! Tom
Un decided on the rubber feet. board does not rest natural, humidity and such from kitchen cooking, could cause it to bow, or warp on its own weight. but then again, sitting on the counter absorbing moisture if not cured properly could do the same...
Thanks Tony, the board actually does rest naturally and the rubber feet keep it from sliding around. No risk or bowing or warping as it is an end grain board and plenty strong at nearly 2” thick. But if you’re thinking of making one, feel free to customize however feels best to you. Thanks for watching! All the best, Tom
I really think that’s a Core Box bit and not a Cove bit. My Cove bits have bearings on them. I’m not sure as I’m new to these bits but I’m at the point of adding the hand holds and a cove bit isn’t working for me. 7/8 is the cutting diameter
thanks a bunch tom, i hope you have a wonderful new year, im looking forward to your video's this year, i do want to ask your opinion on this, im going to be making a walnut countertop and i would like to know what you think would be a good finish, i know there are many out there , but i respect your thoughts, thank you again for this video, ive made a lot of cutting boards but its always good to see how others do it, one last question, ive seen some wipe the excess glue off in the beginning and yet others who leave it and scrape it off after its dried...what do you think on this subject....be careful with the oil your using m it can soak into your skin and go straight to the intestines and before you get out the door you mess your pants....LOL...haha...
Thanks Robert, glad you enjoyed it! The finish I would choose for a walnut countertop is Waterlox. It's a little pricey but if you store it well (keep oxygen at a minimum in the can) it will last a while. I like it because it had excellent protective qualities against moisture being it is Tung oil based. It's easy to apply, and if it gets worn over time, you can easily wipe on a new coat. The Waterlox also looks fantastic and will bring out the best in the walnut. The waterlox original is a medium sheen, but I personally prefer the satin sheen on a countertop. And once it is good and dry, at least a week, it rubs out very well with 0000 steel wool. Hope that helps, be seeing you on TH-cam! (and I'm happy to say I suffered no ill effects from handling the mineral oil :) Tom
Bee Rancher Thanks! Yeah, I’m not sure what was going on with the sound back then. We have an improved system now that you might find better on our more recent videos.
As I said for part 1 meticulous work ... but there is something strange: you' re concerned for safety gear, and that' s ok, but you always neglect to use some respiratory protection ... for orbital sander, again that might be ok, since you use dust suction, but afterwards, when routing the finger place, you don't again use respirator, this time you also don' t use dust suction... Respiratory protection is a must, and apart from cheap and inexpensive respirators, there are many better at affordable prices in the market...
Yes, you are right George. If you followed me around in real life in the shop, you would see I am pretty careful, having a central vac Oneida dust collection system, now a Festool vacuum attachment to sanders and routers, and commonly additionally wearing a dust mask. I must have been distracted with the video and the microphone to not wear a mask during that segment. So thank you for the heads up, I’ll try to be more vigilant about that during my videos too!
Best end grain cutting board video on the internet, hands down. (I’ve watched 20+ in the past two months). Thank you so much Tom. My dad is turning 80 this month and I’m going home to see him. We’re going to make an end grain cutting board together and your video will be the one to guide us. Thanks again!
Thank you Brandon, so glad you enjoyed it. That was one of the first videos I made and I had no idea it would be well received. I’d love to hear how your experience making the board with your Dad turns out, Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! 🎊 🎄
Tom, this is absolutely the most detailed and instructive lesson on this type of board. Camera work and editing is so professional. Thank you for taking the time to upload the episodes, have learned so much about end grain characteristics.
Have subbed, regards from Victoria Australia.
Whole heartdly agree with everyone who said this has to be one of the best and most detailed end grain cutting board video on TH-cam.
I have watched cojntless videos over th past 6-9 months already and just finished up a batch of 6 boards for gifting this xmas. But sadly only today your videos came up on my feed.
Examples of details i have not found on any other video: placing each strip one by one on the gle clamps, hand planing to avoid sanding time, sparse use kf glue, focus on lowering material loss...
This, and Part 1, is one of the most detailed cutting board tutorials I've ever seen. Wow.
Thanks for saying that...Glad you enjoyed it!
Hey Tom, just finished watching as I am about to make a cutting board using walnut for my nephew and his wife....great step by step! Merry Christmas 7 years later!
I’ve watched a lot of end grain cutting board videos but this was by far the best!
Thank you so much Mitchell. That was one of the earliest times I decided to turn on the camera. 😎👍
Tom: This is one of the best videos I have seen on "woodworking" on youtube. You explained every step and shared your reasoning for why you did it "that way". I have learned a lot....I almost think I might get brave enough to head down to my dad's shed/workshop and give it a try. Thank you so much for sharing your craft and expertise.
Haha, I love that Chris, thank you for the kind comment. And yes, it was meant to take away the mystery and I hope you will give it a try!
Thanks Tom for Part 2. Again I totally agree with previous comments, that your’s are the best vids on making chopping boards on You Tube bar none !
Excellent, sincere thanks.
Peter Atkin
Sheffield. UK.
Thank you Peter! It’s funny I’ve been designing and making furniture for thirty years and my first cutting board videos seem to be most popular 😎 I do appreciate so much your kind comments, especially since in the last few years I am focused primarily on teaching, through TH-cam videos and a public TV series here in the US.
Coincidentally, I just last evening did a “livestream” video on making a smaller version of the same cutting board which you might enjoy - it is the most recent post on our Epic Woodworking channel. Being as I see you are in the UK, viewing them live would be a late night for you!
Thanks again,
Tom
Greeting my South Australia. I am a recent follower of your channel, after it 'randomly' popped up whilst watching other related videos. Your experience in teaching clearly comes across in your presentation.
After many years of being rather an 'impractical' person, over the years I have increased my confidence in my own car maintenance, and after many years making a complete mess of wood projects (I look back on the shabby work and feel embarrassed), I got into it seriously early 2020, but starting out woodturning, and extended myself from there. I really got into making turning platters, and dip bowl/platters with cocentric seperate rings for meats, crackers etc, and then moved onto some cutting boards...until things stopped.
Unfortunately, due to health reasons, I have done little the past 12 months, and have only just got back into doing a few things, but one of my 'issues' are times of cognitive problems or 'brain fog' whereby I get easily frustrated...or simply can't focus at all, which really 'cramps my style'. I have always watched woodwork videos, even if I had not the ability or enthusiasm to ACTUALLY do something. As such, I have a lot of 'stock' in storage which was supposed to be used to make desks, tables, bowls and platters etc. Oh, well, just keep on keeping on, I guess. I start small, like making pen blanks, or cutting up wood into smaller slabs. I do what makes me feel 'happy' at the time, and sometimes that leads me on to bigger projects.
Keep up the great work Tom. 🙂. What is the best way to contact you for questions, or suggestions?
Thank you for your kind words and sharing a bit of your story. Sounds like you have made some nice things in a relatively short time. For my hobby when I’m away from woodworking I’ve enjoyed fixing and maintaining my car…watching and learning from TH-cam videos too 😎
Anyway, I hope you will stay with it too in your shop as you can. Sorry to hear about your health issues.
Thanks for reaching out all the way from Australia. It’s nice to know you found something of value in our videos. The best place to connect is through our website epicwoodworking.com, so feel free to check that out.
Thanks again, and all the best to you,
Tom
Clearly, the best video around on this type of project.
Thanks Clark!
Fantastic tutorial. Best Regards from Poland.
Great Marek, glad you enjoyed it! I have ancestors from your part of the world so thanks for reaching out! 😎
What a fantastic job Tom. My life ambition is now to make one just as good.
Wow thanks Andrew! I bet you can make one at least as well…and lot more than that cutting board. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
What a pleasure it is, privilege really, to watch and learn from a master craftsman like you. Thank you for taking the time to explain and illustrate each step along the way. This project is such a great teaching tool because it incorporates nearly every skill necessary to become a more proficient woodworking craftsman, from preparing rough lumber, to squaring it up, to the use of power and hand tools, to order of process, to care and safety. Beyond all that it is just enjoyable and inspirational to follow along as a true master pliés his craft. This project is the first I’ve seen of your work and I am going to subscribe and enjoy watching all your previous and future projects. Thanks again ver much!
Thank you for the kind words Bill, that means a lot to me. I love sharing the craft these days, and the more I do the more I find myself wanting to learn and experience…even after 32 years at this 😎. Thank you for watching and being part of our generous community! 👍
I have watched many videos on making end grain cutting boards but none compare to your video You are the Best Thank you
Thank you so much Harley! I have been from designing and making custom furniture full-time for the last 25 years to full-time teaching, here in my shop and online. So to receive a comment like yours in the early going means a lot toward making me feel I'm on the right track. I love "passing it on", and would do it for nothing if I could. You should be seeing a lot more videos released this year. Thanks again! Tom
At the start i thought: "this is the clasical guy that only use 3 power tools" but i have to agree that surprise me that is the only guy in youtube that plane a big end grain surface(what actually was what i was looking for) so... you have my respect
Thank you Andrei. Yes, I love hand tools and using them whenever it makes sense. In this case I know most hobby woodworkers don’t own a large sander machine, and it was a good opportunity to show the features of a low angle jack plane. Thanks for you good words! Tom
This is a school example how a good video should be done. Even a beginner will understand how its made step by step. No bullshit music, bullshit talking just a very informativ video how you make a quality produkt. Would love to have this cutting board in my collection of great tools in my kitchen.
Hi Tom !
Just wanted to thanks you for sharing this with us. I really enjoyed watching you making that project. I feeled like at school learning welding with that teacher I had, you reminded me of him. I can feel the love you put into your work.
Plus all the chunk of wisdom you give while working and why you do something in that particular way. Thanks Tom :)
Simon L Thank you Simon, I really appreciate you taking the time to leave such an affirming comment...makes me feel like I'm doing the right thing!
There are some new things coming you might like too...if you follow me at my website epicwoodworking.com, you will be among the first to know when I announce them.
Thanks again! Tom
Good work!
Thanks George! 👍
Fun build! Never appreciated the work that went into one of these. I told my friends they would be getting one for Xmas…..mmmmm maybe 1 a year!
Best video on this topic period. Wish I found you sooner !
Awesome, thanks for that!
Thanks for the early Christmas present! Thank you, Thank you, Thank you! Absolutely the best video I've come across, and I have been watching many.
All I wanted to do is build a cutting board, I didn't realize that there were so many important steps in production a quality cutting board!
I'm so happy that I came across your channel, after watching, pausing to take notes, I feel confident that I can build a nice quality cutting board thanks to your well explained video!
Thanks Michael, so glad you enjoyed it and found it instructive for doing great work. Most of my experience comes from learning from my mistakes so I’m happy to help you avoid a few while on the path to doing nice work.
Thanks again, See you next time!
Tom
Hey Tom, thanks for the lesson. I have watched many you tube videos where they were a personal testement to the instructor. You explained what you were doing and showed us how and why you were doing it. Very informative. I believe I can get into my workshop and have a couple of my grandsons doing this shortly with hopefully great results.
That’s awesome you will be working with your grandsons! And thank you for the kind feedback, it truly means a lot to me 👍 All the best, Tom
Great presentation and wonderful craftsmanship, thanks Tom
Thomas Wilkinson Glad you enjoyed it Thomas! thanks for watching and letting me know.
Thank You for so generously sharing your craft and art! So well thought out in all detail, Fantastic!
Awesome job, man! Most detailed and instructional video I have seen on end grain boards and I have seen several :)
ProudVOLSfan Thank you Vols fan! I am really glad to know you enjoyed it...thanks for taking the time to let me know 👍
You may be interested in a special announcement we will be making very soon which we will announce first to our followers on the mailing list at epicwoodworking.com
Thanks again! Tom
Thank you so much for your attention to detail.Your videos are always so instructive. Many of the techniques are applicable to other projects I have done.
Thanks Dan! (“McLaughlin”, maybe we’re related?) I guess so try to explain the way I wish someone would explain to me 😎
I really appreciated the hints on preventing chip-out and planing opposing sides to offset any angle in your plane guide. Really excellent video.
Very nice,stan
Thanks Stan! 👍
Thank You Tom ,,,,what a beauty, one question why did you put it through the sander would it have been harder with the hand planer ?
Thank you! I just use whatever method seems to make the most sense for the purpose. Sometimes I’ll used the sander and sometimes I’ll hand plane depending on the situation. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
Your talent is incredible! This video has answered soooo many of my questions! Thank you!
Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed it!!😎
Fantastic presentation.....Thank you
Thanks Ron!
Great videos thanks.
Thanks Brian!
Very thorough and detailed video. Thank you.
Terry Bodenhorn Glad you enjoyed it Terry! Tom
Awesome Thank you. Wondering if I can upload images of an end grain buthcher block countertop to see why there are putty looking marks on mine.
I’m not sure what you mean, a countertop you made…markings you are unsure of? Most likely cause of marks on the surface from a relatively new end grain countertop would be glue spots that got into the end grain during glue-up. Could this be the issue? You can connect with us through epicwoodworking.com 👍
Great video, because he gives a full tutorial. Very informative!!!
Emmet Concannon Thank you Emmet, I am happy to hear you enjoyed the video!
Thanks for teaching us .
Luis Stanker It is my pleasure Luis, thanks for watching!
Totally Awesome! Fantastic job and great video. Thank you. I will try the same soon.
Thanks Scott, so glad you enjoyed it, and thanks for watching! 👍😎
Hey Tom. I'm new to your channel. I have made and sold many end grain cutting boards in my career. I have never heard of someone using a low angle jack plane on the end grain a after drum sanding. Very smart! I might steal that idea from you in time. Great idea.
Also, you will stop all tearout from scraping or planing if you chamfer the short edges. That will allow you to send it through the planer or hand plane without having to flip it. Thanks for the insight!
Thank you, but I would defer to you as the expert :) Thanks also for the champhering tip, I’ve never tried that sending it through the planer, I’ll try it next time, how heavy a champher do you use to run through the planer? (I don’t make a lot, just for gifts occasionally and good way to use small cutoffs).
I just left a heavy 80 grit on the drum sander for the video, and found skim planing git rid of the deep scratches in the end grain pretty efficiently so it was quicker to sand to clear with the orbital. But as you probably know, the plane has to be tuned up and dialed in for end grain line this.
Thanks again!
Tom
@@EpicWoodworking absolutely. Honestly idk if my hand plane tuning skills are up to par at the moment. I might need to wait some time for it. I have a Rotex so that usually makes it a little bit easier for me on the rotary mode. And surprisingly the chamfer doesn't need to be large at all. Well... Let me say, I've only planed end grain on my helical head planers. But I've seen MTMwood and others plane end grain with straight knives. With my helical head, if I literally have the slightest chamfer, like 1/16" it seems to be sufficient. Kinda like the method of using blue tape on holes before drilling to reduce tearout. Doesn't have to be too much support, but a little goes a long way. And also, whenever I am routing an end grain board I actually have to turn the end grain board up on its side or else the tearout is always a chance. But turning it on its side gives very minimal tearout except for super brittle woods like Zebrawood.
Mayday's Custom Woodworks Thanks! Yes, I almost mentioned the Rotex option in my earlier message. I’ve picked one up since shooting that video and imagine if I were making limited production runs of boards, that would be my choice as well. The planing can be physically tiring and with the Rotex there’s no need to stop and sharpen, a large diameter sanding area, amazingly efficient on the rotary mode and not worried about taking it out of flat being end grain.
On these videos I’m often thinking about the hobbiest who likely does not have a drum sander or Rotex, but the hand planing is an acquired skill too so we choose the best option given where we are. Thanks again for the tips!
All the best,
Tom
@@EpicWoodworking ya, absolutely. Well it was nice talking to you, Tom. I'm subscribed and I look forward to your stuff in the future. God bless.
Mayday's Custom Woodworks Thanks, good to connect with you, and God bless you too 👍
I'm so glad I can watch you any time I want to. I've missed your show on Create.
Clyde Balcom Thanks, I’m glad you enjoy it! Working on putting together the funding for the next season of the “Classic Woodworking” show now.
You may also be interested to know I’m live-streaming from the shop every Thursday night, calling it Shop Night Live. You can find out more at the website, epicwoodworking.com. Thanks again!
Great demonstration. I make end grain cutting boards as well. On the finishing, I apply the mineral oil to one side only and when it begins to seep through the other side, I flip the board and apply the oil so that The board is saturated all the way through.
texasaussie45 thank you! They are a lot of fun as a side project and make a great gift...even to yourself!
Good tip about the mineral oil, I can’t believe how much these boards will soak up, Almost that full 16 oz bottle! I think it get almost all the way through when I start with the top, the board is nearly 2” thick, and then I apply to the back. Interesting how the capillary action is negated once you start coming from the other side since there is no air flow through.
Keep up the great work yourself, and thanks again! Tom
Beautiful work and very good teacher one of the best excellent information and great detail thanks you very much for you time to teach
Thank you for the kind words Denis, that means a lot to me! It is truly my pleasure to share what I love doing.
Hi, Thank you for the excellent video. I am thinking about doing a cutting board similar to this; however, I have very simple (cheap) tools. It is nice to see that even without thousands of dollars in equipment, I have a chance to make something like what you made. You are a true craftsman and are skilled at what you do. Thank you again!
Hi mate a very nice board keep them coming
barry dyson Thanks Barry!
I watched this video about a year ago when I was setting up my shop and knew I had to try it. Every minute you put into this wonderful and instructional video has been great for me, a beginner, Thank You so much! I’m at the second glue up where end grain is shown and thinking about the finish. Going with mineral oil and you mentioned could also apply bees wax, which I’d like to try. I’m thinking apply the bees wax after I’ve applied the mineral oil and then buff off, is that correct?
really nice project,,, If I have one downer is it went on a bit too long and the camra was a bit too far away so couldnt see the detail, which was a bit disappoining,,, but as I said before, really nice project. One other thing or comment, you have a really good mannor about you, you come across as very gentle, relaxed and easy to listn too... Many thanks for taking the time to help all us newbies to woodworking.. Steve
steve chandler Thanks Steve, nice of you to say. And yes, my camera and editing skills could be a lot better :)
I don’t know if you’ve seen it yet but I started hosting a public television show called Rough Cut with Fine Woodworking. The best part of that for me is I don’t have to set up the tripod and do my own editing! Thanks again 👍
@@EpicWoodworking Great video and I'll need to check out your TV program Rough Cut
Great pair of videos, thank you. Out of interest why didn’t you joint the to be glued edges in the final step? You’d planed it no doubt pretty true, but if done properly is that enough to get nice tight edges in the final glue up? I feel that I wouldn’t get it flat enough! Thanks
Thanks Charlie. Sorry to have missed seeing your comment earlier. I’m not sure exactly which you are referring to, but I prepared each surface as much as needed to create a great fitting glue joint. Hope that helps, thanks for watching! 👍
Awesome video, new subscriber!
Awesome thank you! Glad you're along for the ride!
Great video! Doylu think a stanley no62 low hand plane would work ?
Tom, really liked your video. I have a question on the end grain planing. I don’t have a low angled jack plane. I do have a 5 & 5 1/2. Would there be a different technique if I used one of those planes? Thx
Great video, I learned a lot, I’ve been making these boards, this was the best video I’ve seen. Thank You so much for doing this.
Thanks for saying that Rod, so glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for doing this video. I have a question about finishing - I didn't notice you cleaning the board after sanding (some people use mineral spirits soaked in a rag, some people use other methods) before applying the mineral oil. Is it not necessary then to clean off the sawdust before applying mineral oil? Thanks again.
Thank you Fred! Given the simplicity and “food safe” quality of the mineral oil finish, I think you are quite safe to just give it a good dusting off after the final sanding. I would stay away from using mineral spirits prior to the mineral oil, as the mineral spirits are toxic and would defeat the purpose of the safe mineral oil finish. Not to mention the mineral spirit would absorb deeply into the end grain and would take forever to evaporate out. If you want to use anything prior to finish a quick alcohol rub would kill any bacteria present and quickly evaporate.
Hope that makes sense and helps! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking Thank you!
Thank you for the detailed training. Merry Christmas
If hand planing is not an option or you don’t have hand planes, can you use a router with a spoilboard bit to level up the end grain?
Yes, absolutely, that will work great, and then you can skim plane and sand, or just go through the sanding grits on an orbital. Endgrain is actually easier to rout than side grain because the fibers are vertical. Hope that helps and goes well! 👍😎
Thanks for the detail ...
Great video and I really liked the detail and time you take explaining everything. I'm heading to the shop and make one of these after I pick up a nice piece of Cherry at the local lumber yard. I am a subscriber of the Fine woodworking and going to check out your Public TV show Rough Cut.
Glad you enjoyed it Al! Those boards are a nice small project, and make great gifts...I can’t seem to keep any I make for myself.
I have really enjoyed getting to know and working more closely with Fine Woodworking. You may have noticed the Adirondack on the cover of the current issue, that’s one I designed and was featured in the fourth episode. You may also like to know I just started offering live-streaming classes which, if interested, you could learn more about at epicwoodworking.com
Thanks again!
All the best,
Tom
Beautiful cutting board Tom, looks like I have another project to put on my "to do" list.
Just wondering, could you have gone from 80 to 100 to 150 grit on the drum sander and eliminated some of the hand-plane work?
Also, would a regular angle plane work or would it tear out the end grain too much?
Thanks for the videos
Thanks Rob, I’m glad you enjoyed it! And yes, you could say yourself some handwork and just take the cutting board smooth by sanding through the grits. If you were in production, you would definitely process the boards in that way. I like showing the hand tool option when it’s not as likely the viewers would have the larger machine like the drum sander in this case.
And a regular plane would work, it would need to be well tuned.
Thanks for watching! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking Thanks for the reply Tom. I'm lucky enough to have a Woodmaster drum sander in my shop, but I do need to tune up my hand planes and work on my skills.
Is there any time for you to show us how to make a drip catcher for the cutting board. Thanks
Thank you Ron, I will definitely keep that in mind and look to include something on adding a drip catcher.
All the best, Tom
When putting the board through the drum sander with the end grain up (part 2 of the video at the 10:15 mark), can you use 120 grit or higher instead of the 80 grit to minimize the scratch marks? Great video by the way. I am going to try this (as a beginner DIY hobbyist) with cherry and see how I do. I will need to practice using a hand plane first. Thank you again for sharing this with everyone.
Sure, finer part will work, it will just take more passes.
Wish someone like you told me not to put end grain through a plainer a month go, that shot out of there like a bulled just below my belt, wow that smarts!
Yikes, yeah I’ve learned the hard way on many things myself! Glad you didn’t get hurt too bad. Not to invite risky methods any further, but I have heard if you pre-chamfer the back edge prior to running it through the planer, you won’t experience that kind of tear out. I’ve used this this method effectively while hand planing, but have not tried it myself running through a thickness planer. Thanks for watching! 👍😎
@@EpicWoodworking I have used my thickness planer on end-grain cutting boards without problems. First, I do not recommend doing so with a planer that has conventional knives. I have a DeWalt running a carbide helical head at 179 cuts per inch, and when the cutters reach the cross grain I don't lower more than 1/8 turn, about 128/100" at a time. There is a big difference between super-sharp carbide one-inch wide pushing back on the cutting board than up to three 13-inch wide blades hitting it all at once three times per rpm. The method described below allows the user to sneak up on the end grain. Nevertheless, I stand off to the side rather than directly in the path of any ejection possibilities. I also take care to clean the rollers before attempting to plane cross grain.
I make a frame to tightly encase the cutting board by cutting plain boards (either hardwood scrap or hard "soft wood" (like Douglas Fir or sourthern yellow pine) about 1/4" thicker than the thickness of the cutting board and a little more than one foot longer than twice the length and twice the width of the cutting board. From that , cut two boards the same length as the exact width of the narrower ends. Cut the remaining board in half. Afix some 1/8" thick material that is slightly smaller than the cutting board to one side of the cutting board. Then frame the board by gluing and screwing/pin nailing the short boards tightly with clamps to the boards, with and afix the longer ones with about 3" extending from the front and back ends. The 3" extra length insures against snipe. Set the whole thing on the planer in feed and adjust the cutter height to begin cutting on the plain boards. When you get close to cutting on the cross grain, lower the cutter head in small increments. When cross grain is reached, make very shallow passes. As soon as it's flat, turn it over, remove the 1/8" material and proceed as before.
Brilliant.
I’m puzzled by something. At 16:30 in Part 1, you emphasize jointing the previously sawn edges to get a better glue up. You even go over alternating the orientation in relation to the jointer to cancel out any error in the jointer setup in terms of the fence being even the slightest bit away from a perfect 90 degrees. However, here at 3:30 you start gluing up edges that were hand planed and then sanded. I’m certain there’s a reason for the different treatment. I just can’t figure it out.
If both sides of the board were run through a drum sander before cutting the strips and flipping them on end, I would be confident that the faces glued up now were dead flat. I don’t have that level of confidence in my ability to hand plane both sides of a big board perfectly parallel. Would it be overkill to either joint the edges of the strips once more just like at 16:30 in part 1 to ensure optimal glue up?
Great videos as always. I am having a bit of difficulty with the final skim planning of the end grain using my bevel-up jack plane as you describe. My problem is the plane is not getting the standard shaving you would expect. I am getting dust with a light cut setting or plane stuttering when I increase cut depth. Likely my setup is off. Could you provide some specifics on the tuning and setup of the plane and blade you are using? Thank you!
Hi Kevin,
Yes, as I think I mentioned in the video, planing end grain is the most difficult form of hand planing you can tackle. And getting the cutting edge set just right is even more critical because as you say, too light and you get just dust, too heavy it wants to chatter. In the video, I’m using the lien Nielsen number 62 low angle jack plane. I did another video where I tuneup a standard plane and my procedure for tuning the blade is very similar. Here’s the link to that one, Sharpening, Tuning, and Using a Handplane with Tom McLaughlin th-cam.com/video/LlalqBpZIJ0/w-d-xo.html
Once I get the blade tuned up and back in the plane, I’ll do some test cuts on some thing like pine to be sure the shaving is even across the mouth and to the optimal depth. Then waxing the soul always helps. Good luck with it, thanks for connecting! Tom
Something happen,I'm trying to subscribe,but not allowing the red button. It,s not reacting,but I will try again other day because your patience is invaluable.
Sorry for the late reply here -- not sure what is happening there. Maybe try again now that some time has passed and see if you still have the issue. Thanks for trying!
Hi -- were you able to eventually subscribe?
Great Job! Is it possible to add a juice groove around the top and if so what router bit would you use?
I would use just plunge rout using a 1/4”, or 3/8” round nose router bit with a fence holding it a little less than an inch from the edge. Thanks, have fun with it! Tom
Tom, quick question. I just finished the cutting board yesterday. It came out beautiful. It’s amazing how silky smooth end grain can be. Now, I noticed today there was a slight cup in the board now? Could it be from using hard pine that was sitting in a log pile covered for four years or maybe from making it over the past week in a cool garage shop then bringing up into a warm/ dry house? Right away I brought back down to shop and put in the end vice to flatten again. This board was dead flat after planing? Should I bring up into the kitchen and settle out (maybe weighted own for a few weeks?). Or maybe add a strong back to underside? Or should I have let the wood acclimate once I split from the wood pile? ....so much for quick question..lol. Other than that it came out beautiful and can’t wait to make more now. Still have a lot of good size pieces of hard maple left to use. Since your my teacher now I thought you would have good insight for an amateur. You are the best! Thank you.
Thanks for the kind words Bob, so happy to have you part of what I’m doing here.
As to your cutting board, it is very likely the moisture content was not quite low enough, thus the wood unstable, if it came right from the log pile into the cool shop. Your suspicions are probably right that the dry house, especially this time of year, helped to bring the moisture content down and therefor the board cupped some on you. If it’s not too much or a cup, I would let it stabilize in the house, then re-flatter and finish after it had reached a settled moisture content. It’s tough to force clamp it flat, sort of like fighting the tide. Hope that helps, thanks again! Tom
@@EpicWoodworking thank you! I’ll continue to monitor and then adjust one of these days? I think I’ll also think about cutting/ splitting up the remaining logs and storing them for next winter’s work! Thanks again.
Great, sounds like a good plan, glad you enjoyed it! 😎
If you go clockwise with the router with the 3/8 bit after the hands (which i agree with Tom O on a reversible board but that is just preference cause you do better work than me.) you should prevent the burn. Lord, I wished I had those tools....drool.
very nice video.
Do you think its a good idea to run throght a thinkness planer the edge grain board after the first glue up?
Does a drum sander do a better job?
MrSergecj if you glue sacrificial boards on the ends you are going to feed thru and do light passes, it works pretty good
Instead of a hand plane, can i use a dewalt planer, i was told it’s a ban idea running end grain through a planer
Yes, you can use a planer, but there are a few techniques you will need to use to get the best results. First it’s a good idea to glue a sacrificial piece across the back end of the cutting board (which you can simply cut off later). By backend I mean the last edge to exit the planer. This sacrificial piece will prevent the wood from tearing out the end grain fibers on your cutting board. You should also make very light passes and use nice sharp planer knives. Hope that helps! Tom
Hi Tom, I recently discovered your channel and love it! I’m just wondering what your thoughts are on sending an end grain cutting board through a planer after the second glue up? I have seen varying opinion on this. There are some woodworkers who say it should never be done, while others say it can be done by gluing sacrificial strips to avoid tearout and taking very light passes. I would appreciate to hear your thoughts on this.
Yes, I do agree if the board is thick enough, as mine is at 1 1/2” thick, it can successfully go through the thickness planer with the sacrificial piece glued in to the trailing edge...and light passes with sharp knives is recommended! Thanks, hope it goes well 👍
Hi Tom. I enjoyed this tutorial very much, you really created a beautiful work of art. It's actually almost offensive if the lucky recipient of this piece didn't use it as it's meant to be used after all the work and clearly so much pride was put into creating it. I do have one question... what are your thoughts on wiping down the board with a damp cloth during the sanding process?
righthook27 Thank you, I’m glad you enjoyed the video and the results! If I’m working on a project that will get water stain finish of some sort, I will always raise the grain prior to applying the finish by wiping with a damp rag, allowing to dry, and sanding off the raised fibers until smooth. In this case the finish was simply mineral oil and the only grain that could possibly raise is around the edges where there is vertical side grain, since grain raising is not an issue on end grain.
Hope that answers it, thanks again! Tom
Un decided on the rubber feet. board does not rest natural, humidity and such from kitchen cooking, could cause it to bow, or warp on its own weight. but then again, sitting on the counter absorbing moisture if not cured properly could do the same...
Thanks Tony, the board actually does rest naturally and the rubber feet keep it from sliding around. No risk or bowing or warping as it is an end grain board and plenty strong at nearly 2” thick. But if you’re thinking of making one, feel free to customize however feels best to you. Thanks for watching! All the best, Tom
How do you prevent cupping in the first few days after finishing?
There is no discernible cupping since it’s all end grain...another reason the end grain boards are preferable. Thanks!
I would really like to know what the full specs or make/model of that cove bit are. I know he says 7/8" but is that the cut height or radius? Thanks.
I really think that’s a Core Box bit and not a Cove bit. My Cove bits have bearings on them. I’m not sure as I’m new to these bits but I’m at the point of adding the hand holds and a cove bit isn’t working for me. 7/8 is the cutting diameter
thanks a bunch tom, i hope you have a wonderful new year, im looking forward to your video's this year, i do want to ask your opinion on this, im going to be making a walnut countertop and i would like to know what you think would be a good finish, i know there are many out there , but i respect your thoughts, thank you again for this video, ive made a lot of cutting boards but its always good to see how others do it, one last question, ive seen some wipe the excess glue off in the beginning and yet others who leave it and scrape it off after its dried...what do you think on this subject....be careful with the oil your using m it can soak into your skin and go straight to the intestines and before you get out the door you mess your pants....LOL...haha...
Thanks Robert, glad you enjoyed it!
The finish I would choose for a walnut countertop is Waterlox. It's a little pricey but if you store it well (keep oxygen at a minimum in the can) it will last a while. I like it because it had excellent protective qualities against moisture being it is Tung oil based. It's easy to apply, and if it gets worn over time, you can easily wipe on a new coat.
The Waterlox also looks fantastic and will bring out the best in the walnut. The waterlox original is a medium sheen, but I personally prefer the satin sheen on a countertop. And once it is good and dry, at least a week, it rubs out very well with 0000 steel wool.
Hope that helps, be seeing you on TH-cam! (and I'm happy to say I suffered no ill effects from handling the mineral oil :)
Tom
Anyone have the dimensions of the rubber feet used in the video.. thanks
That pretty, I would have done a central, or double hand hold... work from both sides... :-)
Tony O well there’s only one thing to do then, make it happen 🙂
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Very informative and interesting , but let down by occasional poor sound .
Bee Rancher Thanks! Yeah, I’m not sure what was going on with the sound back then. We have an improved system now that you might find better on our more recent videos.
As I said for part 1 meticulous work ... but there is something strange: you' re concerned for safety gear, and that' s ok, but you always neglect to use some respiratory protection ... for orbital sander, again that might be ok, since you use dust suction, but afterwards, when routing the finger place, you don't again use respirator, this time you also don' t use dust suction... Respiratory protection is a must, and apart from cheap and inexpensive respirators, there are many better at affordable prices in the market...
Yes, you are right George. If you followed me around in real life in the shop, you would see I am pretty careful, having a central vac Oneida dust collection system, now a Festool vacuum attachment to sanders and routers, and commonly additionally wearing a dust mask. I must have been distracted with the video and the microphone to not wear a mask during that segment. So thank you for the heads up, I’ll try to be more vigilant about that during my videos too!
I looked up a Lee Nielsen #62 on ebay .....$260 lol
Jeez. 90 mins of video for one board.
It actually took a little longer than that to make the board, and then there’s the time making the video. You’re welcome 😎