I had to chuckle several times while watching this video. Anyone who has built something complicated knows that things don't always go as planned. Thank you Jerry for showing the mistakes and sidetracks that you experience. Now say slot six times real fast. LOL
With reference to the 16/32 drum sander being thicker in the middle compared to the outer side, this is feature on the more expensive models. It is so that you don't get a line in the middle of your work when joining things like cabinet doors and coffee table tops and the like. It allows for the woodworker to thin the material by hand to get a perfect joint. But of a pain when talking guitar tops though.
Jerry, your videos are like the old Saturday cowboy serials of yesteryear, they get on the edge of your seat on what is coming next, and then "To Be Continued"... Just Saying
About calibrating the 6-32 thickness sander...you might try laying a plate across the bed that will span the length. Then loosen the adjustments & let it settle before tightening it down. I have the 18” model & calibrating is a bugger for sure. I use mine to sand tapered laminations for bow building. Much enjoy watching & learning from you & Caleb. 👍🏻👍🏻
Well, Caleb, as an artisan I know what apprentices go through, so you took the blame for the short neck, BUT you redeemed yourself with the laser cutter/ computer work !☺ anyway, this was a very interesting edition, have a great week ROSA String Works.
My dad always said a good carpenter always has someone to blame for the mistakes, and that is why I grew up working in the shop with him. Kaleb your in good company and Jerry is a great Luther/carpenter
Your father must have known my boss!! I work in a high end finishing shop (paint) I get blamed for virtually everything that doesn't turn out perfect. Anything that does work out well, my boss is quick to take all of the credit...
Hi Jerry and Melissa and Caleb. I'm sure the problem you all encounter will work out in 1/3 the time it used to burn. I watch all videos you produce. You folks can solve any problem. Hoping the warm weather gets to your farm very soon. Chopping wood is a chore I've done as a youth. Un-fun. You folks are the best.
Other people may hide mistakes and problems not our Jerry though he just keeps on track and everything turns out nice in the end, Great work Jerry i can't wait to see the next part my friend.
Jeez, I wish I could live nearby and just come over and hang out! You had me laughing out loud on a grey Sunday in San Francisco. Fascinating and entertaining as ever. Thank you!
If it were all easy everyone would be doing it, my best achievements have all been tough at some point along the way! What you do, and what you teach is all worth while! Thanks for sharing Jerry...
For measuring and "bumping" things, purchase a cheap dial test indicator with magnetic base and a set of cheap Chinesium gauge blocks for height setting. With these it is possible to do setups with precision below a thousandth of an inch. A cheap set of gauge blocks is about a $100 on eBAy and a dial test indicator with base is about $30. These will make it a lot easier to setup your planer, laser cutter, saw and such. For example to move the saw fence a few thousands, set the indicator against the fence so that the plunger is pushed in a short distance and then set the zero. Then bump the fence the required distance as seen on the indicator. The indicator can also be used to prove that two surfaces are parallel such as when setting planer blade heights. To set the laser height, put a stack of gauge blocks together to the correct height and then use that to set the height extremely precisely.
I love this project more than most, though I love them all, but I want to put a new top on a twelve-string and I'm hoping to learn how to do it. Looking forward to it.
Jerry, try to add some grains of salt between the planks during the glue-up. It will not be moving up on you. The salt grains will bite into the wood and will keep it in place
Awesome video thanks for sharing. I can't wait to to hear the twelve string sang out, lol. Stay well and safe my friend. Bt.w, Why don't you try using the little tack inside of each peace of the neck to line them up. The same way you line to finger board with the neck. It's just a thought.
the trick with those big hole saws is to set the clutch to a low setting so that when the saw "grabs" the clutch takes the abuse. you want to start on the lowest setting and try it , moving up one notch each try until the clutch will turn the saw then start the hole. also you want to grip the back end of the motor housing with your off hand to make damn sure the axis of the drill stays at 90' to the work surface then brace the battery end of the handle against your body.
Stay with it Jerry. I know you will best this thing. I have seen too much success from you to doubt you. I do admit to very much looking forward to your adaption of a 12 ßtring guitar. I feel it will be spectacular!
Thanks for this Jerry. Gluing up my first soundboard that I am adding to a hollowed out telecaster body. Acoustasonic style. Gonna route a shelf for it and brace it up slightly. I will be leaving some wood inside the body down the middle to mount the bridge/saddle and using a surface mounted humbucker and a piezo under the bridge. Cutting f-hole style cuts in the top as well.
To keep all 5 layers aligned could you prior to glue up align the layers, then in two areas that you are going to be cutting off drill and dowel everything to prevent slipping.
Learned recently to sprinkle a little salt on the glue . Holds it in place and keeps from sliding long enough to clamp. And dissolves. I’ve used it to make a 5 piece neck when I clamped all together at same time and worked well.
When I cut a hole that big ,I use a Milwaukee corded hole shooter with a side handle. Jerry is right that a hole saw that size can literally take your wrist off.
Your shop is obviously designed for making guitars, and every guitar has a neck. While the vacuum bag is a fancy gizmo, designed to eliminate the use of clamps, building templates is so much easier and saves space. You build the jig in a couple of hours and then use it thousands of times over. The same thing would apply to your fancy fence on your bandsaw. build the proper template once and you can throw out the calculator needed every time you make a cut. It does look cool and is , no doubt handy when making one-off items but when making multi-piece, identical items, where is the logic in measuring the same sized piece for every cut. That just invites errors to occur. Build the right jig and never make mistakes. It saves time and material - if that matters to you.
Hey Jerry, when your glueing 2 pieces of wood together and you don't want them to slide, use a bit of table salt it works great and will evaporate, and will not effect the bond at all!, try it out👍
Wrong neck...remembers me to my own workshop.;-) But here my next recommendations: 1. Use slightly smaller and flatter frets, otherwise the player will have intonation problems, because you press the strings with much more physical power than on the 6 string. 2. Make sure that you have a very very low action. String action is most significant for good playable 12strings. I use not more than 70/000 on all of my 12 string guitars. 3. try Thomastik AC 211 strings. They are the most balanced strings with a string tension between18 and max. 22 lbs. Good that you always attach great importance on the bridge plate. Did you ever take a look on the bridge plate of an old Taylor 12 string? It´s huge, 2 times bigger than all the others. That´s why you can play these guitars so nicely and they have a good sustain.
That's what she said.... missed it by that much.... lol The vacume press works on the atmospheric pressure, ton's of air pressure on the wood to keep it in place...
I watched another video of a guy sealing the vacuum bag. He laid the closing tube on the table top and the then just pushed the second tube down, using the table as his second hand. He said it was a lot easier than trying press the tubes together just with his hands alone. By the way, great idea using wrap to hold the neck together plus it keeps squeeze out off the bag.
Wow, I never expected to hear "Inkscape" on your channel! As a nerdy computer programmer, I'm familiar with that application since it started life in the Linux world before being ported to run on MS Windows. I can recommend the mailing list if you are having issues with it, since I think the developers be very helpful and stoked to hear that it's being used to design part of a musical instrument.
Everything is a table! Al flat, or semi flat surfaces will become a table! You have to have them! I should have caught that mistake on the headstock shape. Oh well! Love from NW Colorado. Thanxz
Jerry, how about using 2- 1/8th inch dowels, one at each end, going all the way through the laminated neck, before putting it in the vacuum bag? Maybe that would help with the slippin' and slidin'.
It's a cheap Chinese laser cutter that was made for a specific purpose they just sell them on eBay for little or nothing and we then adapt them to our use
Personally, I've had some problems with TiteBond II and III where the glue creeps under pressure. I've gone back to the Original and am much happier with it.
Jerry my friend. I like me see and feel your struggles BUT.. YOU'LL NEVER FAIL BUDDY. I build custom box guitars and creative outsidethe box stuff.Even Turtle shell diddle bow guitars.
Jerry did you ever try running the hole saw backwards when you start or catch a tough spot? I used to when working on expensive doors and couldn't have any chatter..
I've used sapele a couple of times, it seems slightly harder than mahogany; mahogany was nicer to work with - but maybe that's just the two pieces I had!
@@d.whitman7455 naturally nobody can speak for Jerry but I have watched him so much the reason he might use one glue over another could be because it’s close at hand and still does a good job. He does use 3 on permanent assembly parts at times. Always Original when attaching necks and bridges type parts that might need to be removed in 20 or 30 years.
@@jefferp yes, he had been making a point of saying that TB3 was appropriate for things that were never to be taken apart (such as laminating a neck, not attaching the neck, but laminating it). Then he hauls off and uses TBO to laminate the neck. I think perhaps he's so accustomed to using TBO that he forgot he'd just been singing the praises of TB3. Pain is a helluva distraction. ijs...
Hi Mr. Rosa, at 14:30, isn't it possible to shift the outer part over the inner? You work the outer part over the inner by pressure it. I would try to slide it from one side to the other......For that you don't need to have strength in your hands.
Can we laminate flat sawn pieces of wood to form a quarter sawn wood piece with out laminate?? And what type of laminates are good for this job?? Thanks for sharing great work.
I know it can be a pain at times to do this, Jerry, but showing it to us is an educational treasure. Thanks so much!
I had to chuckle several times while watching this video. Anyone who has built something complicated knows that things don't always go as planned. Thank you Jerry for showing the mistakes and sidetracks that you experience. Now say slot six times real fast. LOL
great to have you back you are a good man how do I know by your actions I have bad hands too Jerry hang in there.I; am 83
Great video, very interesting to watch a guitar grow. Respect and stay healthy all.
This video is getting real interesting... Thanks for sharing.. Looking forward to the next session ...
can't wait for part 4
Really excited for this build. Your work is a pleasure to watch unfold as always Jerry.
Cheers from Northern Utah.
Good job Caleb, not taking things personally. Great teamwork.
With reference to the 16/32 drum sander being thicker in the middle compared to the outer side, this is feature on the more expensive models. It is so that you don't get a line in the middle of your work when joining things like cabinet doors and coffee table tops and the like. It allows for the woodworker to thin the material by hand to get a perfect joint. But of a pain when talking guitar tops though.
"These glue spreaders are cheap and they work pretty darn good" LOL oh my goodness, you almost got me in trouble I laughed so hard at that one!
I'm been inspired to build my own guitar thanks to you
Jerry, your videos are like the old Saturday cowboy serials of yesteryear, they get on the edge of your seat on what is coming next, and then "To Be Continued"... Just Saying
What a nice way to put it..
About calibrating the 6-32 thickness sander...you might try laying a plate across the bed that will span the length. Then loosen the adjustments & let it settle before tightening it down. I have the 18” model & calibrating is a bugger for sure. I use mine to sand tapered laminations for bow building. Much enjoy watching & learning from you & Caleb. 👍🏻👍🏻
Your videos just keep getting better.
Well, Caleb, as an artisan I know what apprentices go through, so you took the blame for the short neck, BUT you redeemed yourself with the laser cutter/ computer work !☺ anyway, this was a very interesting edition, have a great week ROSA String Works.
Tapping adds plenty value. I certainly can tell.Hello from misician from South Africa. Great videos.
I love it when Jerry's building guitars.
Your videos are the best I have seen love watching you channel a big hello from me in England
My dad always said a good carpenter always has someone to blame for the mistakes, and that is why I grew up working in the shop with him. Kaleb your in good company and Jerry is a great Luther/carpenter
Your father must have known my boss!! I work in a high end finishing shop (paint) I get blamed for virtually everything that doesn't turn out perfect. Anything that does work out well, my boss is quick to take all of the credit...
Hi Jerry and Melissa and Caleb. I'm sure the problem you all encounter will work out in 1/3 the time it used to burn. I watch all videos you produce. You folks can solve any problem. Hoping the warm weather gets to your farm very soon. Chopping wood is a chore I've done as a youth. Un-fun. You folks are the best.
Other people may hide mistakes and problems not our Jerry though he just keeps on track and everything turns out nice in the end, Great work Jerry i can't wait to see the next part my friend.
Jeez, I wish I could live nearby and just come over and hang out! You had me laughing out loud on a grey Sunday in San Francisco. Fascinating and entertaining as ever. Thank you!
If it were all easy everyone would be doing it, my best achievements have all been tough at some point along the way! What you do, and what you teach is all worth while! Thanks for sharing Jerry...
Jerry a pencil and a note pad are the best memory one can have.
Only if you can remember where you put the note and then remember to look at it
Pretty cool. We're back to the laser cutter. I feel like if I came there I'd know my way around.
That's probably one of the best glue spreaders in my opinion. I just wish mine were as experienced.
For measuring and "bumping" things, purchase a cheap dial test indicator with magnetic base and a set of cheap Chinesium gauge blocks for height setting. With these it is possible to do setups with precision below a thousandth of an inch.
A cheap set of gauge blocks is about a $100 on eBAy and a dial test indicator with base is about $30. These will make it a lot easier to setup your planer, laser cutter, saw and such.
For example to move the saw fence a few thousands, set the indicator against the fence so that the plunger is pushed in a short distance and then set the zero. Then bump the fence the required distance as seen on the indicator.
The indicator can also be used to prove that two surfaces are parallel such as when setting planer blade heights.
To set the laser height, put a stack of gauge blocks together to the correct height and then use that to set the height extremely precisely.
You are preaching to the choir I already do all that
A great example of teamwork & synergy in collaberation!! Nice work Caleb & Doctor Jerry!! Going to be a unique Rosa 12 string!
I love this project more than most, though I love them all, but I want to put a new top on a twelve-string and I'm hoping to learn how to do it. Looking forward to it.
Jerry, try to add some grains of salt between the planks during the glue-up. It will not be moving up on you. The salt grains will bite into the wood and will keep it in place
Don't forget: The hurrier you go, the behinder you'll get !
Awesome video thanks for sharing. I can't wait to to hear the twelve string sang out, lol. Stay well and safe my friend. Bt.w, Why don't you try using the little tack inside of each peace of the neck to line them up. The same way you line to finger board with the neck. It's just a thought.
you got your internet sorted out Yea!! been missin your videos and sure everyone else has as well
the trick with those big hole saws is to set the clutch to a low setting so that when the saw "grabs" the clutch takes the abuse. you want to start on the lowest setting and try it , moving up one notch each try until the clutch will turn the saw then start the hole. also you want to grip the back end of the motor housing with your off hand to make damn sure the axis of the drill stays at 90' to the work surface then brace the battery end of the handle against your body.
Stay with it Jerry. I know you will best this thing. I have seen too much success from you to doubt you. I do admit to very much looking forward to your adaption of a 12 ßtring guitar. I feel it will be spectacular!
Nice sound!
Appreciate you 🙏
Thanks Jerry, I can’t wait too see this 12 string come together.
It's good to see you're making progress despite all the setbacks. I also recently purchased your mandolin method instructional, wish me luck!
Thanks for this Jerry. Gluing up my first soundboard that I am adding to a hollowed out telecaster body. Acoustasonic style. Gonna route a shelf for it and brace it up slightly. I will be leaving some wood inside the body down the middle to mount the bridge/saddle and using a surface mounted humbucker and a piezo under the bridge. Cutting f-hole style cuts in the top as well.
All I have to say at this point...mmmmmmmmm I'm loving it...VERY INTERESTING
To keep all 5 layers aligned could you prior to glue up align the layers, then in two areas that you are going to be cutting off drill and dowel everything to prevent slipping.
Yes he could but there is a chance that the laminations might slip doing it like that also Jerry has very little wastage at both ends of the neck.
Learned recently to sprinkle a little salt on the glue . Holds it in place and keeps from sliding long enough to clamp. And dissolves. I’ve used it to make a 5 piece neck when I clamped all together at same time and worked well.
I am aware of that method but I don't use it.
When I cut a hole that big ,I use a Milwaukee corded hole shooter with a side handle. Jerry is right that a hole saw that size can literally take your wrist off.
it would be great to see the milling machine in action, if its not too much trouble, awesome video and good to see mistakes too
Your shop is obviously designed for making guitars, and every guitar has a neck. While the vacuum bag is a fancy gizmo, designed to eliminate the use of clamps, building templates is so much easier and saves space. You build the jig in a couple of hours and then use it thousands of times over. The same thing would apply to your fancy fence on your bandsaw. build the proper template once and you can throw out the calculator needed every time you make a cut. It does look cool and is , no doubt handy when making one-off items but when making multi-piece, identical items, where is the logic in measuring the same sized piece for every cut. That just invites errors to occur. Build the right jig and never make mistakes. It saves time and material - if that matters to you.
Good morning Jerry and company.
Hey Jerry, when your glueing 2 pieces of wood together and you don't want them to slide, use a bit of table salt it works great and will evaporate, and will not effect the bond at all!, try it out👍
yes very aware, nope, wont do it.
Hey Kaleb, im glad your the one to blame, cause at my work they always blame me!! Welcome to the blaming club!!!
Can't wait for the next video. Love watching your videos.
Wrong neck...remembers me to my own workshop.;-)
But here my next recommendations: 1. Use slightly smaller and flatter frets, otherwise the player will have intonation problems, because you press the strings with much more physical power than on the 6 string. 2. Make sure that you have a very very low action. String action is most significant for good playable 12strings. I use not more than 70/000 on all of my 12 string guitars. 3. try Thomastik AC 211 strings. They are the most balanced strings with a string tension between18 and max. 22 lbs.
Good that you always attach great importance on the bridge plate. Did you ever take a look on the bridge plate of an old Taylor 12 string? It´s huge, 2 times bigger than all the others. That´s why you can play these guitars so nicely and they have a good sustain.
That's what she said.... missed it by that much.... lol The vacume press works on the atmospheric pressure, ton's of air pressure on the wood to keep it in place...
'Using the glue spreader I was born with' - classic Jerry.
Loved this...
Good morning everybody from Marshall Missouri
What a cool video. I had no idea you could use a vacuum sealer to glue up a neck.
I watched another video of a guy sealing the vacuum bag. He laid the closing tube on the table top and the then just pushed the second tube down, using the table as his second hand. He said it was a lot easier than trying press the tubes together just with his hands alone.
By the way, great idea using wrap to hold the neck together plus it keeps squeeze out off the bag.
Excellent, it's coming together well. Really enjoyed this.
I've got about ten of those same glue spreaders too!! lol
I'm really surprised at Caleb's memory going at such a young age!!
@Peter Rahill Hahahahaha!
Ya know, Jerry, it's just not easy being you....
Team work paying off!
43:00 Big bit is big. Some drills have can attach a second handle to save the wrists, especially if ever using hammer mode on concrete.
That is why you should use a drill with a side handle to keep from spraining a wrist.
Wow, I never expected to hear "Inkscape" on your channel! As a nerdy computer programmer, I'm familiar with that application since it started life in the Linux world before being ported to run on MS Windows. I can recommend the mailing list if you are having issues with it, since I think the developers be very helpful and stoked to hear that it's being used to design part of a musical instrument.
Everything is a table! Al flat, or semi flat surfaces will become a table! You have to have them! I should have caught that mistake on the headstock shape. Oh well! Love from NW Colorado. Thanxz
Jerry, how about using 2- 1/8th inch dowels, one at each end, going all the way through the laminated neck, before putting it in the vacuum bag? Maybe that would help with the slippin' and slidin'.
Great video Jerry nobody knows the troubles you see 😂😂
Just another day on the Farm!
Have you ever tried the salt trick? Sprinkle a little salt on the glue, it will prevent slippage and the salt will melt in water-based glue.
I was just adding up in my head the cost of 12 Waverly tuning machines for this beast of a flat top. Just those would bankrupt me! 😬 lol
Turn the clutch down on your drill so it gives before breaking your wrist. Gives you the chance to release it from the bind and start over.
You would think the maker of the laser cutter would have already thought out the elevation of the cutting height and solved that problem.
It's a cheap Chinese laser cutter that was made for a specific purpose they just sell them on eBay for little or nothing and we then adapt them to our use
If I ever get a laser cutter or an accuslice gizmo I'll know what to do now.
Personally, I've had some problems with TiteBond II and III where the glue creeps under pressure. I've gone back to the Original and am much happier with it.
Good craftsman never makes a mistake. Dang apprentices.
Oh please name this build
"The rosa tangent 12 string"
Dont stress so much jerry.
You know it will all come together fine.
I looked it up. It is costly but wood veneers are not cheap. If I had to make veneers this would have paid for itself in a year.
Jerry please don't be too hard on yourself ! Also let Caleb do some fire wood cutting !
We do it right cause we do it twice!!
Other people “i dont know why”
Jerry “for some reasons” :D
Sorry Jerry, I did have a small chuckle at your expense. At least it wasn't a Padauk neck!!
Over at Crimson Guitars, Ben has used a few grains of salt to stop glued surfaces sliding around, seems to work so might be worth a try.
Not a fan of that method
Jerry my friend. I like me see and feel your struggles BUT.. YOU'LL NEVER FAIL BUDDY. I build custom box guitars and creative outsidethe box stuff.Even Turtle shell diddle bow guitars.
There's men...a and Real men. You hit the real man star Jerry. Keep trucken Jerry. I'll never forget the Rosen strings 6 stringer!!
What a player.
A dowl through a section that will be cut away and nobody will ever know.
You have really taken to leaving us with a cliffhanger! Hmmmmm.
You should name that guitar “The Macbeth “
My friends all taken to calling it the "Scottish Rosa" i hope that's close enough for you.
Jerry did you ever try running the hole saw backwards when you start or catch a tough spot? I used to when working on expensive doors and couldn't have any chatter..
Time for a Rickenbacker style 12 string headstock, then!
Dang it Caleb. Be alert
I've used sapele a couple of times, it seems slightly harder than mahogany; mahogany was nicer to work with - but maybe that's just the two pieces I had!
Oh well that neck mistake will one day become a happy mistake with the next Rosa six string guitar, no wasted wood which is always the goal.
Like #198
Thanks for the video!
❤️❤️❤️❤️❤️
I would like to see how the milling machine works.
Tightbond 3?.? Even on a seam.? What would Stradivarius say? He would say, “Dang, I could have used that stuff!”
I wonder why he did not use TB3, but TBO, to laminate the neck. Do you have a theory?
@@d.whitman7455 naturally nobody can speak for Jerry but I have watched him so much the reason he might use one glue over another could be because it’s close at hand and still does a good job. He does use 3 on permanent assembly parts at times. Always Original when attaching necks and bridges type parts that might need to be removed in 20 or 30 years.
@@jefferp yes, he had been making a point of saying that TB3 was appropriate for things that were never to be taken apart (such as laminating a neck, not attaching the neck, but laminating it). Then he hauls off and uses TBO to laminate the neck. I think perhaps he's so accustomed to using TBO that he forgot he'd just been singing the praises of TB3. Pain is a helluva distraction. ijs...
Hi Mr. Rosa, at 14:30, isn't it possible to shift the outer part over the inner? You work the outer part over the inner by pressure it. I would try to slide it from one side to the other......For that you don't need to have strength in your hands.
nope, impossible
@@RosaStringWorks ;-)
Can we laminate flat sawn pieces of wood to form a quarter sawn wood piece with out laminate??
And what type of laminates are good for this job??
Thanks for sharing great work.
Why do I feel that I'm watching Gerry 's assimilation by the Borg ?
or the other way perhaps..LOL
@@davidmcausland4088 A distinct possibility ! Lol
Wouldn't it be useful to put two small nails at 11:00 to keep it from moving when clamping? Same thing you do when you glue the fretboard?