For official Bearded Ford Tech Merchandise go here rainmanraysrepairs.com/product-category/bearded-ford-tech/ For AMSOIL go here www.amsoil.cm/?zo=5124952 To get a used oil analysis kit from Speed Diagnostix go here www.speediagnostix.com
The oxidation discussion near the end is interesting... I appreciate Lake talking about how this is better than using TBN in gasoline oils. I guess I'll have to send my oil samples to him from now on because I don't know anyone else doing the oxidation testing here in Canada and it seems that it's a very important indicator for looking at whether an oil is still healthy enough to continue using. Great discussion Anthony. Cheers!
@@CedroCron yep. That's why I specifically asked him to explain. It was diesels when diesel fuel had high sulfer and would make the oil acidic. But like he said that number is irrelevant now. Gasoline or diesel and you can't base it off they number. Oxidation value is what we want. He always does a great job explaining that. Thank you for watching. I love doing these tests
@@CedroCron 2014 auperduty ABS code video later today. Didn't film fixing it cause I was so busy and people were in and out of the shop fixing the ac. But I did go over what was wrong and show the part
@@BeardedFordTech I watch all your videos. Even if they aren't applicable to me, just because the information is good to know. Thanks for all the videos you post and for the chat.
I have used some of Amsoil’s products for over 25 years. Due to fuel dilution issues in two of my engines I don’t stretch the intervals out as far as Amsoil claims their oils are capable of being used. Some engines are just more susceptible to fuel dilution because of their design and usage. The most amazing product I’ve used from Amsoil is their Saber 2-stroke oil. 80:1 mix ratio in all of my equipment for over twenty years and absolutely no problems whatsoever with carbon or wear.
Would you have the problem with fuel dilution in applications like LS motors with the oil vapors from the crankcase being dunked into the intake? I do smell gas in my oil catch can
Lake Speed Jr. is the Motor Oil GOAT! Great collaboration! I'm not a Ford guy but the information applies to all. I like the way you two emphasize variables in driving and climate.
@@BeardedFordTechSeeing early viscosity sheer on my EB 3.5L using Pennz Ultra Plat 5W-30. Planning to move to Amsoil 0W-30 for my winter run as here in Denver, where my truck sits outside during the winter, we get pretty low temps and startup early flow is important with 0W flowing earlier. That said, if you watch a comment Lake made in a recent video maybe 4 or 5 days ago, the difference between 0W and 5W is a thinner Base Oil which gives better flow, but also sheers easier. With that, after my mid cycle oil lab test in the SS Amsoil, I may move to the Extended Oil as you have, hoping the Additive Package and 5W gives me a little better sheer resistance as induction motors are murder on oil. That said, I will also just run an oil pan heater on cold nights winter and keep the 5W relatively warmer for quick flow on startup.
@@BeardedFordTech I learned a lot in your video with lake, addressing the profile of your data points. Right now, I have four of Lake’s testing kits in my garage and one from Blackstone. What I’ve learned from lake and working with him and seeing channels like yours is that the data will tell you the story. I am an engineer, scientist, and before I was going by rule of thumb change intervals based on time because I never put enough miles in many cases to hit a mileage high-mark. What I discovered after starting to test was it wasn’t the lack of miles that was the problem. It was the fuel dilution from too many short trips. So what I’m doing now is I’m testing oil 2500 miles or six months to get an idea of the performance of the oil over the oil cycle. Without a doubt testing will tell you the story and everything else other than lab data is just a guess. And in all likelihood, a person is likely to guess incorrectly more so than correctly.
I was a diesel truck mechanic from the late 70’s thru mid 95. I had 8 years working for a Cat dealer and we used oil analysis all the time. I think we started in the 80’s sometime. “Repair before failure” was the idea. Oil analysis is the way to go…
Curious question. Why did you think stop start killed an engine? Was it speculation or cause other people told you it did? Welcome to the channel. Check out the 7258 mile oil change anaysis with him as well. It's a good one.
@@BeardedFordTech I thought start up was when most wear happens due to the brief low oil pressure.. is this not correct? Why wouldn't that apply to stop/start tech found on modern cars?
@davidgalea6113 the only time starting really affects your car is the very first start of the day. After it's been sitting all night and the oil has drained back. During a stop start event, all the oil hasn't had time to drain back and it's at operating temperature. Everything is still coated in oil. Think of it like ypu out running 10 different errands at 10 different stores. You shut your car off and restart it to leave and go to the next store. The only difference. The car is off longer while your in the store. Not in a start stop event. So you would think running errands stopping and restarting would do the same thing right?
@@BeardedFordTech im in the heavy goods trade in the uk and we dont see it on them yet but in cars it was more the stress on everything else like starters etc on the initial take off under load etc. I know oil stays coated on the bearings etc. But these oil samples prove its better for oil not to idle.
@rossm2763 indeed. As far as starter and battery goes. Mine is still the original starter. They have different internals on them and built a little different. And the batteries are AGM. These two parts alone are designed to take abuse. But idling is bad for the oil yes.
@hendrixandmitch and I'll say it one last time. The tire does not have to be removed to access the filter. Last video I did not remove it and people bitched saying to remove it. So this video I remove it and what do people do? Bitch cause I removed it. Don't do what they ask they bitch. Do what they ask they bitch. Again. THE TIRE DOESNT HAVE TO COME OFF. IT CAN EASILY BE ACCESSED WITHOUT TIRE REMOVAL. Hope that cleared it up for you
@@flexjay87 I agree with your statement. Although I am no shade tree mechanic (nothing wrong with one as long as they do it correctly) so I hope by "us" you didn't mean me.
Very interesting! Amsoil sure does make a great product. Lake's oil analysis reports are much easier to follow than Blackstone's. Lake's reports go into great detail with an explanation of each element. Looking forward to the results after 12K.
Fantastic analysis!!! I just completed my first oil analysis using SPEED Diagnostics and the knowledge I’ve gained watching Lake’s videos explaining how to understand the results have been super valuable. Especially the Oxidation values and how it interacts with the rest of the results. My total wear ppm on my Honda is 1.8 on 5,030 mile interval. Will creep up to 6,000 on my next check and continue to monitor so I know where the engine’s limit is using Valvoline R&P 5w-20. Great videos and can’t wait for more!!!! ❤
@@BeardedFordTechyes… good catch. Love your vids as well. My son-n-law has Ford HD and I try and occasionally share info from your vids to him. Great job man!!!
Excellent video!!! Why did Ford make it difficult to take oil filter off. I hope your family is doing Ok. Thanks again great guest as well. Keep up the great videos!
@@pallas5446 they didn't make it hard. I made it hard so I could film so you guys could at least halfway see where it is. You don't have to remove the tire. I did that for the video. Could they have put it in a better location? Absolutely 💯
Auto start/stop will actually reduces the fuel dilution and extend oil life since engine idling time will be less with almost no impact on wear level as oil alreay warm up and engine internals are coated with oil film. By the way, the viscosity seems shear quite a bit as checked specification as 11.3cst which may result in acceleration/fuel economy penalty. However, the wear protection is excellent.
Outstanding information! Thanks for doing this trend analysis to compare the different mileage on the oils. I've only had two analysis' done on my 22 F450, and both were through Blackstone. I'm going to order a kit for my 16 Jeep Wrangler from Speed Diagnostix and have the first analysis done with him. Why all the mentioning of lubricating the oil filter gasket? Are some saying it's not needed or supposed to be done? I was taught over 50 years ago to lubricate the filter gasket, and to wipe the filter mount clean with a clean rag, and to make sure the old filter gasket was not stuck to the filter mount.
@richwitt3559 I lubricated the gasket before and people thought I didn't. So.i showed it to prove I did. Now. On the mustang gt 350 the 2023-2024 f150 and the transit t250 it states not to lubricate the filter oring as engine vibration can cause it to back off. I did a short about it a while back showing the workshop manual for the f150 where it clearly states not to. That's why I mentioned. No reason other than that. Get you a trend analysis going with your jeep. Results may surprise you. Your welcome I have fun doing this. Excited to see what 12k miles says
Our family has been using Amsoil since the 70's and we've been very happy with the results. The last several years our vehicles average 8-12K miles per year. I use the Signature oil and change it once per year. Two have just over 100K, one has 150K and the last has 200K miles. Only the one with 200K uses a bit of oil (1QT/10K) and it did that when I bought it with 137K miles on it.
@thebigguy oh wow. That's good stuff. Now do keep in mind. Oil does go bad just sitting there. The additives start to do phase separation and there is no mixing it back. It's awesome your vehicles have gone they long and you use a superior product!
@@BeardedFordTech I may have to start thinking about doing some testing on the oil. I live in the rust belt and normally my vehicles rot long before the engine dies, but my current crop of vehicles is surprising me on how well they are holding out. I may need to worry about the body outlasting the engine!
I love seeing oil analysis really starting to come into the automotive world. I’ve been an Amsoil dealer since 97. I’ve had several personal experiences that without a doubt have shown me that Amsoil is absolutely not the “snake oil” that some people claim. My favorite one is the 03 Duramax that I owned. At 20k miles I switched all of the oils over to Amsoil. The engine got the no longer made Series 3000 5w-30 extreme diesel oil. I also installed the Amsoil dual element filtration system that utilizes one regular full flow oil filter and one bypass filter. I averaged about 18k miles per year with that truck, took regular oil samples and once a year changed both filters but only added enough oil back into the system to make up what was lost in the filters. So approximately 3 quarts in a now, with the added and larger filters was about 13 quarts system. Oil analysis always came back with a green light for continued use. At 200k miles on the odometer and 180,000 miles on oil that was essentially never completely changed, I finally had an injector failure that flooded the crank case with fuel and I was forced to finally do an actual oil change. Typically when I tell people that story they look at me like I’m crazy because of what I was risking financially if the engine was to fail. But the oil analysis told me that the engine was in great condition and that the oil was also in great condition for continued service.
Awesome informative video. Thanks for documenting and sharing this stuff. I think there’s a lot people on the fence about the effects of auto stop start. As always thank you for all you do BFT!!!!
@domtorretto8875 your welcome. Some people like it. Some people don't. Some people don't care. I did it to see if it wears out the engine(which I know it doesn't I did a video on it a while back) just wanted to see the scientific results
Myself and a former co wonder we’re discussing to lube the oil filter gasket or not one time. He said in his experience if you clean the mating surface and put the filter in try it comes off easier next oil change. While I can’t say that I’ve noticed it coming off easier. I can say that in my experience, a clean oil or used oil lubricated gasket doesn’t make much or any difference for the oil filter coming off more easily next oil change as apposed to just spinning on a dry gasket filter
99% of the time. I just put a new one on. I cleaned the surface on this one. And people always comment "you didn't lube the filter" so I did it last one. And someone said they didn't see it. So I did it on this one and showed the camera. Thats all that was. Usually I never lube them.
Does your Ranger have the turbo? Anything with a turbo falls into the category of Severe Duty. Yes, AMSOIL XL says 20,000 but if you look on the back of the gallon jug of it it will tell you not to exceed 12,000 miles on Severe Duty. Good video though, as an AMSOIL dealer with a retail store and oil change business, I highly recommend anyone with a turbo engine run the Signature Series oil.
@ericsivilla4091 i can look it up on the site. I would probably stick with the euro formula. It's really really good. But if you give me year and model with engine size I'd be more than happy to look it up for you.
@BeardedFordTech my car used a 2024 BMW 530i with the B48 2.0 liter turbo. I joined Amsoil, and they recommended online and by phone the Euro LS 0W20. However, when you check online now, Amspil has no recommendation. Not even for differential transmission. Nothing. I've always used the signature on my Hemis 5.7 and 6.4, and it was great. I know the signature may not be approved by BMW, but I was curious if it would not be bad. Just cause it doesn't carry the approval may not mean it's a bad thing,for is there something so diffrentbir special with BMW engines that requires Euro oil.
Took a jeep Commander to 184k. Changed oil every 5-7k miles. SAME CRUSH WASHER. Was totaled by a rear end collision. Still no oil leaks. Some ppl sweat the wrong small stuff.
@texacajundiy I know right. Same crush washer. If it works it works. A dude literally called me out on a powerstroke diesel saying I didn't change the crushwasher. First off they don't have them. They have rubber gaskets built in. I don't get some people. They totaled it from a rear end? How hard was it hit? That's sucks I'm sorry
@@BeardedFordTech Yeah, it was a 2008 and still had all functionality. The power lift gate still worked after the crash. BUT, in the year prior the ignition had got out that year and I had to buy an aftermarket one BC OEM no longer supported the vehicle. Also, I had to get a wiper arm from an eBay junkyard for the same reason. So when a total loss was offered, I took it.
I change my oil based around how many total miles I approximately can get within 6 months. So, as of right now with just using my work routes as the basis to do the calculations. In six months I would travel 1,224 miles total. So it's 2000 miles or six months. The extra 776 miles is to give some leeway for the extra driving I do within the six months. I never touched the six months because I would always reach 2,000 miles first. This usually happens within 4 months. I have a L15CA engine from Honda. So it is a direct injected 1.5 liter 4 cylinder turbo engine that uses 0w-20 from the Honda dealership and 92 AKI fuel from Top Tier fuel, mostly from Chevron. I drive aggressively to the engine's redline constantly in stop and go traffic on short trips. Majority of the time, I use Normal Drive mode with Auto-Stop start active and I have no issues. I hardly use Sport Drive mode, not too many opportunities to make FULL use of it. The shorter AND rougher your travel is. The more you have to pay. What is highway speed driving? I hardly get to do that during my work week. So I have to do more frequent oil changes. Especially with the engine I have.
@billwylde4846 just because you are driving that way doesn't mean it's bad at 2000 miles. Sooner isn't always better. I get your theory behind it and how you drive. And you have a good routine. Send it off to get tested. Results may surprise you. You may be able to go further. Or it may be bad at 2k miles. You'll never know if you don't test it. It will also show anything that may be a problem now or later in that sample.
I was doing 12,000 mile oil and filter changes on my 2001 Ford explorer sport trac till i retired! It now has 215,000 miles on original engine. OIL ANALYSIS BABY 👍💯
Yet he says he doesn't like Amsoils marketing (when he says he doesn't care about marketing)........instead of looking at the science behind Amsoil......and why they are so good.
Which is hilarious, because in his videos his tests are skewed, half baked, or incomplete. The data he relies on is ultimately his opinion. I'll give him credit for being like a magician though. Nobody seems to notice what he doesn't show.
@mediocreman2 what did we not show? Literally showed changing oil and filter. Putting on a new filter. Adding oil. Putting it in a container. Data from 4 oil changes. You need a hug this morning? Your cranky. Your name says it all mediocreman. That's all you'll ever be.
Interesting looking at my 0w20 6k mi sample to your 5w30 , surprised to see 8.8 on mine for viscosity at 100c vs your 9.2 . I was leary how thin 0w20 seems
From what I understand, UOA’s do not indicate varnish buildup. This is generally the disadvantage to long OCI’s. Particularly the piston oil rings slowly becoming contaminated. The UOA looks good though, good oil. I’m actually about to do my first UOA with Lake. I’m currently using Motul X-cess gen 2 5w-40 in my 23 F150 5.0 & Ceratec.
UOA will indicate. When you hit the 35-40 mark on oxidation is when you start to get sludge or varnish. I mean it doesn't tell you if it's in there. But if your below that. You should be fine
Just as a note, Lake Speed is very against oil additives in his many latest videos and Ceratec had terrible results. The only one I am aware of that is acceptable is the BG MOA product. I can link the video if him talking about additives both oil and gasoline.
@@Balticblue93 I have not seen anything from him about Ceratec. It’s mentioned in one video of his oil additives videos, but without any UOA showing any real info. Definitely send me the link if I am missing something. The purpose of Ceratec is apply the ceramic coating to the internals of the engine, not modify the chemistry of the oil. Although it does contain Molly. Love to see some actual proof of these “terrible” results because every engine I’ve used it in runs smoother and I get increased MPG. He actually says very little about MOS2 or Ceratec in his oil additives video, starting around 15:44.
@@DW-Truck His comment on oil additives was more about the potential chemical reactions that can happy with your oil. He said in some cases it might become acidic or it might dilute the original additive package, while too much of some can diminish the effectiveness of others. It's not so much that the additives are bad, it's that it's hard to know whether they will work, be neutral or potentially cause harm to your particular engine in your particular operating conditions. I think a lot of additives do probably have benefits (like Project Farm running lawnmowers without oil for an hour after treatment) but that's a short term test so PH and sludge isn't so much of a factor when it's going to blow up in an hour either way. Just my take on it, I've had some additives that seemed to quiet things too. YRMV...
@@mikelemoine4267 Agreed, I’m not expecting any magic from it. I do think Ceratec being classified as an oil additive is a little disingenuous. Now it does contain a liquid and a solid modifier, the liquid is molly, but the solid is a ceramic based modifier that uses the oil system to deliver the product around the engine. This is the main benefit. It also takes a few hundred miles to do its job / heat activated. They claim this ceramic based modifier binds to the metal at a molecular level and adds an additional layer of protection. I’m not scientist, but from my experience and I’ve built / balanced a few engines in my time, this seems to be true. I experience the quietest cold starts and improved idle, less vibrations, & improved MPG. I don’t tend to push my oil very long, it will be interesting to see what Lake says about this UOA. I’m going to do my first one at about 4k miles in to the change and see what it looks like. I will say, if you look at the reviews on Amazon, they pretty much universally recommend and mimic what I am saying. Very popular in the German car community and I don’t experience the infamous Coyote tick or knock that others do.
Great video! I would like to see how close or how accurate a F-150 (or other models) oil life indicator is when compared to what oil analysis says. Just to see how well Ford or other manufactures algorithm is. That would be an interesting video as well.
Simple ,Short oil change intervals are always better then long change intervals, it is a fact, undeniable truth ,so change your oil sooner rather then later
Data says otherwise. This is why we test it. So shorter isn't a proven fact it's better. If ypu watched the entire video you would know he literally did that
@texacajundiy not off long enough to do that. That would be when you turn it off for the day. Which is why you let the turbo cool before shutting it down. People don't do that they just shut it off. Let it idle for Teo min to being Temps back down then shut it off. It still keeps a constant temp during auto start stop events. Never had a turbo get build up because of it. But I have seen buildup because of idling.
Well done my take away I am using 0W-20 for 10k km interval however, for 20k km interval I am considering AMSOIL signature series for that I need to use 5W-30 so it will thin out to 0W-20 level at the end of oil change interval.
@othman0077 it won't thin out to a 0w20. The longer you go then it will be on the higher end of the 30 range. It starts at the low end of the 30. He explained this in the used oil video before this one. It's the way amsoil is designed
Wish oil analysis wasn't so expensive. $60. I do my own oil changes on my prius prime so 5 quarts of royal purple is only $35. Might as well save money and do an oil change instead of an analysis. Even 5 quarts of amsoil with filter is only $79.
$60 is well worth an analysis though. You can catch problems before they become catastrophic. But that is entirely up to you. I understand what your saying
I've always wondered if the start stop nature of a hybrid damages the engine. It cycles off and on even at 55 to 70 mph. I thought it might have an electric oil pump to prime the system before it starts but it doesn't which means it's cycling back on without oil pressure. I use the prius for uber and already have 250,000 miles on my 2022 prius prime. Only use premium oils royal purple or amsoil ss every month 8k to 10k miles.
Royal purple? Gross. You can get Penzoil ultra plat for less and it's much better oil. RP is overpriced mid-tier oil. If you want an actual premium oil use Amsoil. This is also peak poor people thinking. It's not about that one oil change, it's about the money saved over the life of the car.
@OtisFlint Also the better fuel mileage with Amsoil SS. RP is no good anymore. It used to be decent many years ago until it was bought out, and now it's made cheap.
@MoeChins nah. For two reasons. Reason 1. The wheel doesn't have to come off. I did that cause last video I didn't and people complained. So I did in this one. And people complain. Reason 2. It was probably designed in a better location. Then the bean counters came in and wanted to save $0.07 per vehicle and relocated it. It's really not bad. Can easily do it with the tire on
Tgdi engines are especially important not to go to far on the interval. That oil gets cooked in the lines so you want as much protection for bearings as possible.
Wow, 12 minutes to change the stinking filter & that doesn't include the extra minute it will take to replace the wheel & torque the lug nuts down. That's on a lift! What a PIA... That said, the oil analysis is truly the best way to know what your engine is doing & how well your oil is working for you. Lake has become one of my favorite TH-camrs to listen to. It's just fascinating to listen & learn from him as he shows you real data from oil testing. I just subscribed so I won't miss your next oil change.
Yeah normally doesn't take thay long for a filter. I don't normally remove the tire. But I did for this video so I would have at least somewhere to mount the camera. Lake is an awesome dude and explains the data very well. Thank your for subbing at watching.
@@BeardedFordTech My brother has nearly the same pickup and uses Amsoil exclusively but in the Signature series with the EAO34 filter. I filled his filter while waiting for him and put oil on the gasket before handing it to him. He asked if I had filled it, and I said I did, he frowned. Well, it all soaked up in the filter media and when he put the filter on and screwed it tight, no oil came out of the filter. So, I do that now for all filters and works great. I fill them up and wait a second and it all absorbs into the filter media, and you are good to go. Just food for thought. I still do the flood mode to build oil pressure, but the only vehicle I can't do that with is the Ford Fusion Hybrid. But I can fill the filter to the top before I screw it on, so I don't of a way to force it into a starter mode on a hybrid. It won't even start the engine unless I start driving or use the AC compressor/Defroster. amsoilcontent.com/ams/graphs/eao/filterspecs.pdf
I always turn off start/stop. I used to leave it on when I first got this car but EVERY SINGLE TIME traffic would start moving again the instant I came to a full stop and the engine shut off. I wish I could permanently disable it but not possible on my car without hacking the ECU.
@@BeardedFordTech 2018 Volvo V60. As long as it's trying to get interior temp within range it stays disabled but once the temp is nice it starts working again. After I was on a 9 months medical driving restriction I had some battery issues which kept it from working but the battery warnings were bothering me so I had to fix that.
@Gizmo42Rodeo yeah if the ac is on full blast it will deactivate due to hesting/cooling. Once the cab temp is stable it turns off. Once it raises it come back on. Defrost will keep it from coming on.
@@TaylorPhase 😁 I found out recently that a vehicle with auto start stop is considered a hybrid. Blew my mind they never taught us that in manufacturer training
Lake said I should wait for next change since I just switched to amsoil from motocraft semi synthetic. I might still do it for an experiment. Great vid bro
@@kingranch8516 yes. That way there isn't residual motorcraft in there with the amsoil. It's for best accurate results. Thank you! Thanks for watching.
I am like you, I know that Lake says to wait and so does Valvoline to do a 2nd or even a third change to get all the old residual oil out of the engine, but I don't as I like to still see what is going on. I am testing the new Valvoline Restore and Protect currently in one of my daily drivers and it is going to be interesting to see the results on paper and in the engine. Also, going to switch over to only Top Tier gasoline that are approved by that website. In my case in Colorado, I am going to switch over to Shell Nitro V-Power gasoline from Maverick Eco 88. I am going to bore scope before and after each oil change which I do at 5000 miles. This particular car calls for 10k changes from Ford, but I did that a few times and it made me nuts even on Amsoil. But one oil I will never use again after their reformulation and filter changes is Mobil1. It is nothing like it was 3-5 years ago and neither are the filters. I put a lot of miles on all our vehicles and toys, so lots of testing being done.
@BeardedFordTech I recently bought a tool that cuts open my filters as I am wondering what type of sooting/gunk I would be seeing with oil runs and specific oil types. I would be curious what a cut open on your Ford OEM filters look like after a 10-12K run this next go around. One of the parameters of filter design is some filters have more capacity to absorb contaminants within a filter. One of the attractive things about the filters I am running now is the Purolator Boss, which bench marked tops or close to tops was it's filtration media down to ~ 20 or less micros, but also its bypass pressure profile and its capacity to hold trapped dirt/oil contaminates, eg, greater than 9 grams capacity. I would be curious to see what your filters look like during data point lab profiles of you next run with Extended Life Amsoil.
@jameszeiger8533 I still have the filter from this video. I didn't throw it away. I can do a video cutting it open. Purolator boss is a great filter. I prefer the amsoil filters. Both of those are very close. When I first started this testing they didn't have any amsoil filters in stock. So I went with motorcraft and stuck to it for testing. This time I'm back on the amsoil filter. That's why I left the old filter in the drain. To cut it open.
@@BeardedFordTech Oh dude! Do it! I am guessing your filter didn’t go into bypass due to media saturation & plugging with 10K miles because if it did, your oil profile with Lake would not have look as good as it did. But, I am curious as F-bomb to see just how much was picked up over 10K miles…👍
2014 F150 3.5L ecoboost. 320000 kilometers has never and has not to date ever used oil. Amsoil signature series in conjunction with Amsoil dual remote filter kit that uses a large primary(Eo26) filter and a bp100 bypass filter. I could use the smaller bp90 filter but using the 100 makes it easy as full capacity for engine is now 8 qts on the dot. So two gallon jugs is perfect. Cheaper by the gallon and case. I usually do 8-10k kilometer intervals but am very interested in doing oil analysis to see how things look
Using kilometers I'm sure your not in the US. May be kind of hard. Reach out to lake speed on the website and ask. As far as bypass goes. I have two different 6.7 powersrtokes at work with a dual kit on them.
I change my oil once a year on my gmc sierra 5.3. With amsoil signature series. I only drive about a thousand miles a year.is this bad for my truck I worry about the cylinder deactivation problem and I want to be safe I live on Long Island New York
@johnmcalisterjr3913 1000 miles a year on signature series. You should be just fine. We'll protected. I would get rid of cylinder deactivation though. That destroys lifters.
@johnmcalisterjr3913 catch can is good. Start stop on gm isn't that great so that's good you disabled it. Ford's start stop reduced engine wear on my truck. I don't know why gm start stop seems so weak. Even a friend who works for gm said they use very weak starters. So it's good you disabled that one. If it was a different brand vehicle I'd say otherwise.
I wish this video was made months ago. My 2022 surburban need engine replacement at 82k. Changed miles every 2000-2500 miles. Was dumbfounded the engine didn't reach 100k
You have a date issue with the two far right samples. So, like with oxidation you have to read column three before column four to know the progression.
The two far right samples aren't date issues unless that got put in wrong. Look at the mileage of when they were changed. That's when the trend started.
@@BeardedFordTech, it was nice to hear what Lake had to say about the oil analysis based on your driving habits. I took 5-10 minutes squinting at the screen and created my own assessment based on the data there but what caught me off guard was the presence of manganese. Wasn’t sure where that came from. Now I feel a bit more knowledgeable regarding that. I’m definitely agreeing with Lake. 12k miles may be the threshold. Your oxidation took off there at the end despite everything holding up well.
@@vais3 I bet the next results at 12k will actually be better across the board than the current 10k mileage change. We'll see if my hunch is correct or not. Can't wait to see the video and results!!
@@Balticblue93 it wouldn’t exactly be apples to apples. The formulation of the oil has changed but I am curious to see the results. I don’t see how it could be better at additional mileage but the new formulation may have something to do with that. His data currently shows the oil at the upper threshold of its service life.
When sending the analysis do you send a small sample also of the new oil that you’re going to use before adding it into your car in order to set a baseline?
No. He already knows what he is looking at. But to get a bigger picture that would help a lot so you know what you can compare to. That's an awesome idea.
I'm testing signature series now. A lot people asked for it. I have to do two oil chaages to make sure I'm testing straight signature series and not residual xl series 😁 one more oil change.
I have a ticking lifter or rocker on my 2011 Taurus (non-turbo 3.5). The noise is coming from the intake side of cylinder 5. Is this a DIY repair? I have to remove the plenum to change the spark plugs anyway, so pulling the valve cover won't be much extra work.
Question, would you consider your vehicle driving severe service? if so wouldn't your OCI with Amsoil XL be at 12,000 miles sense that what they rate it at for severe service? If so would you personally then move up to Signature series to get the extra 3,000 miles of oil life under severe service?
Xl has a new blend. It's rated for 20k miles. My vehicle is normal daily driver. Not severe service. I won't use signature. For some reason xl works better in my truck. I wouldn't get an extra 3k from signature series. Now take into consideration the original formula was 12k miles. The oil was sent for analysis in this video was the 20k new blend. The one before was the 12k mile one. He did say there's possible residual of that oil in this test. That's why he said go to 12k and we will look at oxidation values again
To understand the Oxidation, is this the same oil over the 10K miles or oil with only 2776 miles? I'm assuming this is the 4th Oil Sample from same Oil and it's 10K miles on oil, although the 4th sample indicates a "new" version of oil. Wouldn't the 4h sample be the same oil, and the 5th sample (1st of New Oil) be the New version of Oil. To have 4 oil samples on same oil, is this to watch the values to determine the max safe milage on the Oil? The previous 3 samples were drawn from Dipstick, not drain plug? This is the area that always confuses me on several videos... Speed Jr has always said to run 1st oil change short, due to new engine break-in... like 500-3000 miles tops. Then start with higher milage analysis on 2nd oil change to obtain estimated milage per oil change. Is it healthy to run 10K miles on first Oil of new vehicle?
All samples were drawn from drain plug. No this is one sample that went 10k miles. The previous 3 samples were the old formula. The 4th is a new formula. I didn't take samples. At different intervals and keep going to 10k. Each sample was a complete oil change. All samples taken from drain plug. Never sucked through dipstick tube. If it's a brand new engine. Got 500-1000 miles. Change to oil. Then go to 5k. Do another change. Go to 5k. Send it off for testing. Then you will be able to tell how far you can go. Do not go 10k on just any kind of oil.
@@BeardedFordTech OK, my bad... I was reading Milage as Odometer, not milage. So vehicle has apx 17,200 miles on it. I've had Oil Samples from AmsOil and they show both Odometer & Milage. Relooking at report doesn't show Odometer, thank you for clarification. Great Video, enjoy the discussions with Speed Jr.
@dougcjohn no. Your making this more complicated than it is. My truck has 69k miles on it. The first sample i went 4k miles. The next was like 5k the next was 7k. The last one was 10k. I just keep extending the oil changes each time during testing. Now I'm testing signature series. I will go 5k miles. Drain the oil send it off to test. The next drain will be 8k send it off to test. The next one after that is 10k. Send it off so on and so on. The video shows you the mileage on my truck. The miles in the report is how many miles I went on that oil sample
@tonysteele3805 thays a question for lake speed. I sent a clean sample of the new synthetic blend. Oxidation wasn't really high. Usually between 12 and 15 if I recall is what he said
@@BeardedFordTech Yeah I'll ask him because I know that some Mobil1 ESP and I think the Euro is 32 or something out of the box. Something to do with the ester or AN blending. Very interesting thanks for your video and good luck with your truck!
@tonysteele3805 trucks running go just fabulous. I did have some shift issues with no check engine light. Then it popped on. Wasn't even the transmission. Was the egr differential pressure sensor. Lucked out on that one
I use amsoil signature series which has a rating of 25,000 mi but I still change my oil every 7500 mi OEM specifications it's still pretty dirty at 7,500 mi and I run a magnetic drain plug
U@@BeardedFordTechI'm from michigan.i still use 5w-30 all season nothing hurting i drive 07 Impala LS.ford guyvwho had old ford truck using Chevron regular oil where brutally cold in alaska he still used it.
@@teagreen2220 everyone keeps saying that. No it's really not. You don't have to remove the tire. I did that for the video. You can easily do it with the tire on. Last time I did that people told me to take the tire off. So I did for this one.
@@BeardedFordTech cool, I have not been a Ford guy since the early 80s. I was hoping Ford would not be so hard to do regular maintenance now. Good video!
@user-bz3ts7yf2b because it doesn't do well in my engine for where I live and how I drive. Just because it's their top of the line doesn't mean it's for everyone. However this was a few years ago and xl seemed to work better. I can try testing signature series after this 12k mile test.
I wanted to add that it’s important to know the starting oxidation number. For example, Amsoil’s Signature Series oil tends to have a starting value of at least 40 and upwards of 60, but it’s by formulation and not degradation. Using esters is one key difference for example and their XL line offers a solid starting point indicating a smaller percentage but still notable compared to entirely group III or III+ which may or may not be formulated with additional esters to the point it’s base oxidation value is increased. In the context of this video, he mentions 35-40 as a condemnation limitation. Could you ask him to clarify how to understand oxidation increase in those such oils with much higher starting oxidation?
He texted me If we were talking about an Ester blend (which we were not) I would have referenced that they start at a higher level and then change base on use. Since Ester blended products are the exception rather than the rule, our discussion did not cover those differences.
Oxidation is 35-40 is where the oil is dead. 35 on this report due to it may still having residual oilnfrom the last change which was the old formula. Next oil analysis will tell.
@grudd61 he knows. But it's called flood mode. And he even talked about it in one of his videos. For sideways filters and cartridge and upside down filters you do flood mode. I always do flood mode. Even on regular filters that I don't prefill.
Back in the day Amsoil suggested 25,000 miles or one year if you used their filter. Thoughts? Also, gas in diesel? Doesn't that destroy the engine? Jesus! Is that more or less to replace than a failed CP4? I also have my 200,000mi service scheduled for Monday. I wish I had purchased 5W-40 Amsoil for the 6.7. Next time I suppose.
@GuretoSefirosu they do have 25,000 mile one year. That's the signature series. I run the XL series. They have put gas in the diesels at work. It can destroy the pump. But usually I drain the tank. Flush it. Change filters. Prime system. Good to go.
They still have their flagship product line which is the Signature Series and the EAO filter line is for 25k usage along with the oil. The filter the Bearded Ford Tech installed a 15k mileage filter not the EAO product line. EAO34 in this case.
Not much of us fall into the 25K miles driving condition. Most all driving would classify as severe. With our mixture of sto and go traffic, extreme heat in some climates (especially in the desert areas), always follow the severe service intervals.
@ksamos true. Like ford's definition of sever for diesel is fleet, idling more than 10 min, long trips etc etc. For the gasoline their definition of severe is fleet, taxi, police.
@@ksamos I 100% agree. I treat all vehicles with severe service based on the criteria listed as severe. I only do 5000 mile oil changes on most of my vehicles besides a sports car, motorcycle and boat. I wouldn’t even do a 15k OCI. Hell, I won’t do 10k. But I will use the best oil and filter money can buy. But nearly all vehicles fall under severe service conditions.
@brianodonnell7076 okay so we are back to these comments. I will say this one last time because nobody ever reads the comments where the answer is. This is not directed toward you. It is not in an inconvenient spot. The tire does not have to be removed to remove the filter. Just a few of those plastic pop rivets to move the wheel well protector over. The last time I did this I didn't take the tire off and people complained they couldn't see. So I thought to myself. I'll tske the tire off and mount the camera up there. Now everyone switches up and says man thats a inconvenient location. When I was literally doing what they asked. It really doesn't take long to change the filter. Could they have put it under the truck. I'm sure they could have. But all the 2.3 liters are like thay. Even the mustang.
Hi, my safe fantastic channel a lot of great information. Want to ask a question I got a Honda Civic CVT doing a transmission flush soon which in your experience would you say is the best fluid brand to put in Amsoil Valvoline or just OEM?
Never had an issue with the amsoil cvt fluid. As we all know nissans has horrible cvt problems. A lady at work has one. We switched hers to amsoil about 2 years ago. She has not had one single issue with it. I can't speak for the others as I haven't tried them. But I will say you are safe with amsoil cvt fluid.
I have a 2019 F150 3.5 Eco here in Canada. 8000kms interval with Motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic. Thats the only synthetic my dealer offers.Its my daily driver with a one way commute of 17km or 10 miles with a mix of driving.Does occasional towing of 6000lbs on some hway trips.By 8000kms Im usually at 25% oil life ,in winter its closer to 15%.Is Mobil 1 really that bad? Or are other oils that much better? Ive been wanting to do an oil analysis to see how this oil is performing, truck has 121000kms and engine running A1.New spark plugs at 100000kms,no cold start rattle of any sort.
@jasonbrushett2005 I wonder why a ford dealer doesn't have motorcraft in stock. That's mind blowing to me. Full synthetic comes.in the quart jugs. So it's not in bulk
@@BeardedFordTech I believe Mobil 1 flows best at extreme cold temperatures that happen during our Canadian Winter's. That's when engine wear is most likely to occur. That's why I use Mobil 1.
@sameold5050 okay. So what about when it's at operating temp and is wearing your engine out? I understand cold flow protection. But you need it at operating temp too.
Im glad you struggled a bit with the filter. You are obviously a Professional Tech and I just have more tools than talent and i would curse the filter everytime on my Lariat Ranger.
Not sure what you mean? You being sarcastic or do you curse the filter everytime? It's like back in 2015 the dealership parts manager had a 2009 f250. No matter what we did the filter was sooooo tight. I think he went back and tightened the crap out of it to be honest.
@BeardedFordTech definitely not being sarcastic. It was a pain everytime and I was the only one to change the oil. My 2.3 Explore was way easier to remove the filter.
@darringusko8539 yeah the explorers are easy. The tire doesn't need to come off on the ranger. You can do it with it on. But last time I left it on people complained and b*tched so I took if off for this video. And guess what. They still b*tch about it. Can win.
10k miles. Yikes! I’m waiting for the result but instead of going long with boutique oil would it be better to use the cheapest bulk oil at 1/3 the interval? I guess you have the cost of labour. I see it with the mindset of doing it myself. I do use synthetic oil and not too many km’s but I short trip all the time. I see. This is a good process of gradually extending the interval and testing and confirming it’s working.
No you wouldn't be safer with the cheapest bulk going shirt distance. Shirt distance can still kill oil. It really depends on how you drive. That's why you need to get it tested
Cheaper oil equals less protection. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. My 2014 F-150 STX with the 3.7L (non eco-boost) is still going strong with 260k miles using Amsoil. No engine work ever needed to date. Just routine maintenance and servicing. I did get the tranny rebuilt around 240k as it was sticking in 5th gear on cold starts. Most likely was just a bad main lead or solenoid, but out of an abundance of caution, had it rebuilt. If you want longevity, buy the best for your vehicle.
@enyelator1239 why does everyone keep asking that? The tire doesn't have to be removed. I did it for the video. Last time I did it I didn't remove the tire and everyone complained. So I removed it this time and everyone keeps asking why it's so hard to get to. It's not. It clear access behind the fender liner. Tire doesn't have to be removed. I did so for the purpose of this video. Want a hard oil filter. That would be a ram 2500 with a cummins. It's a PITA
@adrianrobinson7953 JM3 Tell him I sent you. He has a live chat option on the site. And it's the owner you talk to when chatting tell him I said hi www.jm3oilfilterwrench.com/
@lc46002 got your answer. I text him and he replied as follows. The element Carbon is part of the oil molecule itself, so it would be in everything. In a diesel, we do measure soot.
You know how hard it is to pull a valve cover off a ranger? Then I have to replace the gasket and the high pressure fuel line. Let me do more oil analysis then pull it off. I can probably stick a bore scope in there for the time being
@777theright88 I love my ranger. Wasn't trying to be rude. I would love to pull the valve cover. Just a lot of work to do it. High pressure pump has to come off too. I could probably pull the oil pan when I do the next change to send off. Until then I can borescope it
It's not that bad. You don't have to remove the tire. I did for the video because last time I didn't and people complained. So I did for this one. And guess what. People complain. Is what it is
@@BeardedFordTech or wait for the next 12k sample. just don't compare with a different formula which you used before. If it's truly accelerated oxidation, another 2k will have the oxidation MUCH higher
@@BeardedFordTech I know, what I’m saying is that he also said some waivers were handed out during C19 that allowed for increased (perhaps effectively unregulated) amounts of MMT (and other additives I’m sure) in fuel to maintain the needed octane ratings. According to Wikipedia, MMT production was phased out totally in the US by 2021: so burning off old stock makes sense to me. I was doing a spirited climb up a mountain at sunset and as I crested the range I shifted from 4th to 6th, which shot out some blue flames from the tail pipes. More MMT per volume and the stoichiometry of the mountainous air probably had a lot to do with why that happened. That backfire scared me, to be quite honest. It was LOUD and I wasn’t moving slowly.
@oliverramclam6009 yep. I realized that afterward. Even though I don't drive severe. It's turbo. Which would be considered severe. So it's doing what it's supposed to do. Says it on the back if the bottle too. Someone brought it to my attention
@@BeardedFordTech but with the 10k you put on and that being a turbo engine the results are great . It’s safe to run the XL series for the duration of the oil life monitor. With that being said folks are getting better results with AMSOIL XL series than there Signature series idk
Great job. Personally though I would stick with the motorcraft filter. I’ve seen them both cut open and I think the Motorcraft is superior. I like their filter media better and most of the time they use an upper bypass valve that’s near the top of the filter or at the very least the bypass valve is at the bottom of the can integrated in the cartridge, while the soil filter, which is made by labs, put the bypass valve in the leaf spring with the leaf spring being stuck in the bottom end of the filter cartridge, which I think leaves open the possibility of having unfiltered oil leaked past the leaf spring, and the filter cartridge OEM filters have really up their game and most of them are really high-quality now
@@jamescaron6465 I cut open a motorcraft filter the other day. I use the can as a pen holder. The bypass valve is a spring at the bottom. I like motorcraft filters. But the amsoild filters filter better. I've used both. And I like both.
@@BeardedFordTech Not to jinx anything. I have a2006 Sonata that we bought with @25k mile. I've used synthetic since we bought it. I change the oil every 20k miles but I change the filter half way through. The 3.3 V6 now has 160k. It'll still run like a scalded cat if need. Doesn't burn oil or leak. I'm not to sure about the newer cars. It seems some buyers need to change the engine at every oil change.
Old skool engines where the oil drain plug and the filter were next to each other in an easy to access location is gone with the past.... I absolutely hate today's vehicle manufacturing from a maintenance standpoint on sooooooo many levels... The stupidity is just nauseating.
Yep. Although this is still accessible without removing the tire. I still have to remove the little splash shield. And it is a tight spaces. Just about anything that was easy from back then is gone nowadays.
I personally will never use another drop of amsoil, after using the one they make for Kohler, it last 300 hours but you have to add a quart every 30 hours as it just burns up lol😂 Regular Kohler oil I can just change every 50 hours without adding a drop.
@@BeardedFordTech last year,, or 240 hours on motor ago, no leaks, using Kohler 10/30 or 10/40 motor uses about 4 ounces in 50 hours of use, that amsoil 300 hour Kohler oil, used a quart in 30 hours. No thanks
@@Robert-j9k5i oh wow. Haven't come across this issue. Thanks for letting me know. We use it in everything. Even our air compressor st work. Hasn't used a drop.
@michaelross8036 removing a tire? I don't think they remove the tire even though it says to in the manual. You can get around it. I did it for the video.
Pretty cool to see these results. I have a 24 ranger with 2.3 eco. I'm doing first oil change today with amsoil signature at 850miles on the clock. I will probably drop again at 3500 then again at 10k then go 8k intervals from there on with amsoil
@@80hdad97 good your doing the 1k oil change that nobody does. Then 3500 is good. 8-10 id what i do. But testing i start at like 5k and go.in increments.
Why not just take samples from the dipstick tube instead of changing all the oil if you wanted to see how far you could go, along with a virgin oil sample.
@codystephens1144 cause I want to see what it is at different mileage. And there is no dipstixk tube. It goes through the valve cover and cylinder head. And there was a virgin sample. Like over a year ago. If i just take samples and keep going is not a good idea. What if it's no good and I'm still driving with it. Thats why you drain it. Safety precaution.
@kwmiked cause TBN isnt necessary. He explains why he doesn't use it. For when diesels were high sulfer fuels. It would cause the oil to become acidic. That's not a concern anymore.
When I started driving in ‘86 the 3k oil change was the recommendation. I never strayed from that. I’m not doubting the new synthetic oil can last 10k but my concern is it being dirty and carbon riddled. He drove 10k in 290 hrs which averages 34mph. 34 mph is putt putt driving which I understand putt putt driving causes more carbon build up. He may be okay but I couldn’t do it
@HEELMACHINE 10 miles to work on interstate. But when I don't always go that way. Then when I get off work I have the "honey do" list. The "hey can you go grab this from the grocery store" type stuff
And I checked average speed on my dash. You were dead on 34. That's what it says anyway. I need to do faster driving. Different routes. Thank for bringing that up
@lrcreamer mobile 1 is garbage. Failed used oil tests. Pennzoil is good. But why change it every 3k and more often if I can save money going longer? Data shows I can go longer and actually saving money rather than (like you) spending money on oil changes every 3k miles and more often. Changing every 3k and more often doesn't mean the oil is good or bad. Only data can show you that. Thanks for your speculation though. Even though we said we trust data. Not someone's speculation. And you using mobil 1 says it all.
@@BeardedFordTech the head motor engineer for Nissan in a interview said if you want to keep a car longevity [ auto press interview) change the oil at 2000. He makes engines for a living and is in charge of all of Nissan engine plant production
@lrcreamer maybe he should design the cvt? We aren't talking about nissans here. I worked at Nissan for a little bit. Not matter what you do with those cars. They break.
This oils has alot of zinc phosphorus and magnesioum yet very little.boron and moly. I rather take thr latest formula of Valvoline Restore and Protect!
More boron and moly doesn't always mean better. Might want to go watch his video on the valvoline. Might surprise you. He even talks about boron and moly
@btbd2785 true. But. Too much of one thing isn't always good. He did a video on that. Like what additives have in them. And just cause you add it doesn't mean it helps it. I get what your saying though 😁
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The oxidation discussion near the end is interesting... I appreciate Lake talking about how this is better than using TBN in gasoline oils. I guess I'll have to send my oil samples to him from now on because I don't know anyone else doing the oxidation testing here in Canada and it seems that it's a very important indicator for looking at whether an oil is still healthy enough to continue using. Great discussion Anthony. Cheers!
@@CedroCron yep. That's why I specifically asked him to explain. It was diesels when diesel fuel had high sulfer and would make the oil acidic. But like he said that number is irrelevant now. Gasoline or diesel and you can't base it off they number. Oxidation value is what we want. He always does a great job explaining that. Thank you for watching. I love doing these tests
@@BeardedFordTech Looking forward to more videos!. Cheers.
@@CedroCron 2014 auperduty ABS code video later today. Didn't film fixing it cause I was so busy and people were in and out of the shop fixing the ac. But I did go over what was wrong and show the part
@@BeardedFordTech I watch all your videos. Even if they aren't applicable to me, just because the information is good to know. Thanks for all the videos you post and for the chat.
I have used some of Amsoil’s products for over 25 years. Due to fuel dilution issues in two of my engines I don’t stretch the intervals out as far as Amsoil claims their oils are capable of being used. Some engines are just more susceptible to fuel dilution because of their design and usage.
The most amazing product I’ve used from Amsoil is their Saber 2-stroke oil. 80:1 mix ratio in all of my equipment for over twenty years and absolutely no problems whatsoever with carbon or wear.
@prevost8686 yeah thay saber is some good stuff!!!
Would you have the problem with fuel dilution in applications like LS motors with the oil vapors from the crankcase being dunked into the intake? I do smell gas in my oil catch can
Good stuff. I never miss a chance to hear Lake Speed talk about oil. He's forgotten more than I'll ever know.
He's a really smart guy. Love learning from him.
Lake Speed Jr. is the Motor Oil GOAT! Great collaboration! I'm not a Ford guy but the information applies to all. I like the way you two emphasize variables in driving and climate.
It's an important factor. How you drive and the climate where you are. "Results will vary" he is the GOAT. Super nice guy. Super smart
@@BeardedFordTechSeeing early viscosity sheer on my EB 3.5L using Pennz Ultra Plat 5W-30. Planning to move to Amsoil 0W-30 for my winter run as here in Denver, where my truck sits outside during the winter, we get pretty low temps and startup early flow is important with 0W flowing earlier. That said, if you watch a comment Lake made in a recent video maybe 4 or 5 days ago, the difference between 0W and 5W is a thinner Base Oil which gives better flow, but also sheers easier. With that, after my mid cycle oil lab test in the SS Amsoil, I may move to the Extended Oil as you have, hoping the Additive Package and 5W gives me a little better sheer resistance as induction motors are murder on oil. That said, I will also just run an oil pan heater on cold nights winter and keep the 5W relatively warmer for quick flow on startup.
@jameszeiger8533 that's a good plan of action. Gets cold there.
@@BeardedFordTech I learned a lot in your video with lake, addressing the profile of your data points. Right now, I have four of Lake’s testing kits in my garage and one from Blackstone. What I’ve learned from lake and working with him and seeing channels like yours is that the data will tell you the story. I am an engineer, scientist, and before I was going by rule of thumb change intervals based on time because I never put enough miles in many cases to hit a mileage high-mark. What I discovered after starting to test was it wasn’t the lack of miles that was the problem. It was the fuel dilution from too many short trips. So what I’m doing now is I’m testing oil 2500 miles or six months to get an idea of the performance of the oil over the oil cycle. Without a doubt testing will tell you the story and everything else other than lab data is just a guess. And in all likelihood, a person is likely to guess incorrectly more so than correctly.
@jameszeiger8533 that is exactly right! Very well said.
I was a diesel truck mechanic from the late 70’s thru mid 95. I had 8 years working for a Cat dealer and we used oil analysis all the time. I think we started in the 80’s sometime. “Repair before failure” was the idea. Oil analysis is the way to go…
Yep. And analysis will tell you if something is going on. So you can fix it. Love doing these tests
Following this as someone who thought stop start killed an engine, now my opinion is being changed from watching this. Keep it up!
Curious question. Why did you think stop start killed an engine? Was it speculation or cause other people told you it did? Welcome to the channel. Check out the 7258 mile oil change anaysis with him as well. It's a good one.
@@BeardedFordTech I thought start up was when most wear happens due to the brief low oil pressure.. is this not correct? Why wouldn't that apply to stop/start tech found on modern cars?
@davidgalea6113 the only time starting really affects your car is the very first start of the day. After it's been sitting all night and the oil has drained back. During a stop start event, all the oil hasn't had time to drain back and it's at operating temperature. Everything is still coated in oil. Think of it like ypu out running 10 different errands at 10 different stores. You shut your car off and restart it to leave and go to the next store. The only difference. The car is off longer while your in the store. Not in a start stop event. So you would think running errands stopping and restarting would do the same thing right?
@@BeardedFordTech im in the heavy goods trade in the uk and we dont see it on them yet but in cars it was more the stress on everything else like starters etc on the initial take off under load etc. I know oil stays coated on the bearings etc. But these oil samples prove its better for oil not to idle.
@rossm2763 indeed. As far as starter and battery goes. Mine is still the original starter. They have different internals on them and built a little different. And the batteries are AGM. These two parts alone are designed to take abuse. But idling is bad for the oil yes.
That filter location makes me irrationally angry...
Yes. But it's really not hard. You don't have to remove the tire. I did so for the purpose of the video.
same here ! i was getting pissed just watching him remove all of this shit just to get to the oil filter
@hendrixandmitch and I'll say it one last time.
The tire does not have to be removed to access the filter. Last video I did not remove it and people bitched saying to remove it.
So this video I remove it and what do people do? Bitch cause I removed it. Don't do what they ask they bitch. Do what they ask they bitch.
Again.
THE TIRE DOESNT HAVE TO COME OFF. IT CAN EASILY BE ACCESSED WITHOUT TIRE REMOVAL.
Hope that cleared it up for you
Lake speed Jr. willingness to help us shadetree mechanics is much appreciated !
@@flexjay87 I agree with your statement. Although I am no shade tree mechanic (nothing wrong with one as long as they do it correctly) so I hope by "us" you didn't mean me.
@@BeardedFordTech , i meant viewers of auto channels, not the pros on TH-cam.
Very interesting! Amsoil sure does make a great product. Lake's oil analysis reports are much easier to follow than Blackstone's. Lake's reports go into great detail with an explanation of each element. Looking forward to the results after 12K.
Yeah it's going to be a good one.
Fantastic analysis!!! I just completed my first oil analysis using SPEED Diagnostics and the knowledge I’ve gained watching Lake’s videos explaining how to understand the results have been super valuable. Especially the Oxidation values and how it interacts with the rest of the results. My total wear ppm on my Honda is 1.8 on 5,030 mile interval. Will creep up to 6,000 on my next check and continue to monitor so I know where the engine’s limit is using Valvoline R&P 5w-20. Great videos and can’t wait for more!!!! ❤
That's low wear rate. That's per 1000 miles not ppm. Your doing the right thing. Trend analysis. Only way to tell.
@@BeardedFordTechyes… good catch. Love your vids as well. My son-n-law has Ford HD and I try and occasionally share info from your vids to him. Great job man!!!
Excellent video!!! Why did Ford make it difficult to take oil filter off. I hope your family is doing Ok. Thanks again great guest as well. Keep up the great videos!
@@pallas5446 they didn't make it hard. I made it hard so I could film so you guys could at least halfway see where it is. You don't have to remove the tire. I did that for the video. Could they have put it in a better location? Absolutely 💯
Thanks again your my favorite mechanic to watch on TH-cam, thanks again for your video and the information. @BeardedFordTech
Auto start/stop will actually reduces the fuel dilution and extend oil life since engine idling time will be less with almost no impact on wear level as oil alreay warm up and engine internals are coated with oil film. By the way, the viscosity seems shear quite a bit as checked specification as 11.3cst which may result in acceleration/fuel economy penalty. However, the wear protection is excellent.
I have no acceleration or fuel economy issues. Works just fine.
Outstanding information! Thanks for doing this trend analysis to compare the different mileage on the oils. I've only had two analysis' done on my 22 F450, and both were through Blackstone. I'm going to order a kit for my 16 Jeep Wrangler from Speed Diagnostix and have the first analysis done with him. Why all the mentioning of lubricating the oil filter gasket? Are some saying it's not needed or supposed to be done? I was taught over 50 years ago to lubricate the filter gasket, and to wipe the filter mount clean with a clean rag, and to make sure the old filter gasket was not stuck to the filter mount.
@richwitt3559 I lubricated the gasket before and people thought I didn't. So.i showed it to prove I did. Now. On the mustang gt 350 the 2023-2024 f150 and the transit t250 it states not to lubricate the filter oring as engine vibration can cause it to back off. I did a short about it a while back showing the workshop manual for the f150 where it clearly states not to. That's why I mentioned. No reason other than that. Get you a trend analysis going with your jeep. Results may surprise you. Your welcome I have fun doing this. Excited to see what 12k miles says
Incredible film. This is what great engineering and great oil give us 👏
@@Andrew-n1v Thank you. I love doing these tests!
Our family has been using Amsoil since the 70's and we've been very happy with the results. The last several years our vehicles average 8-12K miles per year. I use the Signature oil and change it once per year. Two have just over 100K, one has 150K and the last has 200K miles. Only the one with 200K uses a bit of oil (1QT/10K) and it did that when I bought it with 137K miles on it.
@thebigguy oh wow. That's good stuff. Now do keep in mind. Oil does go bad just sitting there. The additives start to do phase separation and there is no mixing it back. It's awesome your vehicles have gone they long and you use a superior product!
@@BeardedFordTech I may have to start thinking about doing some testing on the oil. I live in the rust belt and normally my vehicles rot long before the engine dies, but my current crop of vehicles is surprising me on how well they are holding out. I may need to worry about the body outlasting the engine!
@thebigguy man I don't know how you rust belt guys do it. Much respect!!
I love seeing oil analysis really starting to come into the automotive world.
I’ve been an Amsoil dealer since 97. I’ve had several personal experiences that without a doubt have shown me that Amsoil is absolutely not the “snake oil” that some people claim. My favorite one is the 03 Duramax that I owned. At 20k miles I switched all of the oils over to Amsoil. The engine got the no longer made Series 3000 5w-30 extreme diesel oil. I also installed the Amsoil dual element filtration system that utilizes one regular full flow oil filter and one bypass filter. I averaged about 18k miles per year with that truck, took regular oil samples and once a year changed both filters but only added enough oil back into the system to make up what was lost in the filters. So approximately 3 quarts in a now, with the added and larger filters was about 13 quarts system.
Oil analysis always came back with a green light for continued use. At 200k miles on the odometer and 180,000 miles on oil that was essentially never completely changed, I finally had an injector failure that flooded the crank case with fuel and I was forced to finally do an actual oil change.
Typically when I tell people that story they look at me like I’m crazy because of what I was risking financially if the engine was to fail. But the oil analysis told me that the engine was in great condition and that the oil was also in great condition for continued service.
Awesome informative video. Thanks for documenting and sharing this stuff. I think there’s a lot people on the fence about the effects of auto stop start. As always thank you for all you do BFT!!!!
@domtorretto8875 your welcome. Some people like it. Some people don't. Some people don't care. I did it to see if it wears out the engine(which I know it doesn't I did a video on it a while back) just wanted to see the scientific results
I can see ford techs not changing the filter !
@TheVigilantEye77 lol. Probably. Even though you don't have to remove the tire. I did for this video
Myself and a former co wonder we’re discussing to lube the oil filter gasket or not one time. He said in his experience if you clean the mating surface and put the filter in try it comes off easier next oil change. While I can’t say that I’ve noticed it coming off easier. I can say that in my experience, a clean oil or used oil lubricated gasket doesn’t make much or any difference for the oil filter coming off more easily next oil change as apposed to just spinning on a dry gasket filter
99% of the time. I just put a new one on. I cleaned the surface on this one. And people always comment "you didn't lube the filter" so I did it last one. And someone said they didn't see it. So I did it on this one and showed the camera. Thats all that was. Usually I never lube them.
Great video! Crazy to get 10K oil out of an eco boost looking good 😂👌
That's right! Time to go 12k and see what happens.
Does your Ranger have the turbo? Anything with a turbo falls into the category of Severe Duty. Yes, AMSOIL XL says 20,000 but if you look on the back of the gallon jug of it it will tell you not to exceed 12,000 miles on Severe Duty. Good video though, as an AMSOIL dealer with a retail store and oil change business, I highly recommend anyone with a turbo engine run the Signature Series oil.
@cameronhorn I'm an amaoil dealer as well. Yes it's turbo. All the Rangers are turbo. I'm going to do SS at next change and test it
@BeardedFordTech can you use signature series on a new bmw in place of the Euro series oil ?
@ericsivilla4091 i can look it up on the site. I would probably stick with the euro formula. It's really really good. But if you give me year and model with engine size I'd be more than happy to look it up for you.
@BeardedFordTech my car used a 2024 BMW 530i with the B48 2.0 liter turbo. I joined Amsoil, and they recommended online and by phone the Euro LS 0W20. However, when you check online now, Amspil has no recommendation. Not even for differential transmission. Nothing. I've always used the signature on my Hemis 5.7 and 6.4, and it was great. I know the signature may not be approved by BMW, but I was curious if it would not be bad. Just cause it doesn't carry the approval may not mean it's a bad thing,for is there something so diffrentbir special with BMW engines that requires Euro oil.
@ericsivilla4091 just a European made engine that requires European oil. It has different properties than American oil.
Took a jeep Commander to 184k. Changed oil every 5-7k miles. SAME CRUSH WASHER. Was totaled by a rear end collision. Still no oil leaks. Some ppl sweat the wrong small stuff.
@texacajundiy I know right. Same crush washer. If it works it works. A dude literally called me out on a powerstroke diesel saying I didn't change the crushwasher. First off they don't have them. They have rubber gaskets built in. I don't get some people. They totaled it from a rear end? How hard was it hit? That's sucks I'm sorry
@@BeardedFordTech Yeah, it was a 2008 and still had all functionality. The power lift gate still worked after the crash. BUT, in the year prior the ignition had got out that year and I had to buy an aftermarket one BC OEM no longer supported the vehicle. Also, I had to get a wiper arm from an eBay junkyard for the same reason. So when a total loss was offered, I took it.
I change my oil based around how many total miles I approximately can get within 6 months. So, as of right now with just using my work routes as the basis to do the calculations. In six months I would travel 1,224 miles total.
So it's 2000 miles or six months. The extra 776 miles is to give some leeway for the extra driving I do within the six months. I never touched the six months because I would always reach 2,000 miles first. This usually happens within 4 months.
I have a L15CA engine from Honda. So it is a direct injected 1.5 liter 4 cylinder turbo engine that uses 0w-20 from the Honda dealership and 92 AKI fuel from Top Tier fuel, mostly from Chevron.
I drive aggressively to the engine's redline constantly in stop and go traffic on short trips. Majority of the time, I use Normal Drive mode with Auto-Stop start active and I have no issues. I hardly use Sport Drive mode, not too many opportunities to make FULL use of it.
The shorter AND rougher your travel is. The more you have to pay.
What is highway speed driving? I hardly get to do that during my work week. So I have to do more frequent oil changes. Especially with the engine I have.
@billwylde4846 just because you are driving that way doesn't mean it's bad at 2000 miles. Sooner isn't always better. I get your theory behind it and how you drive. And you have a good routine. Send it off to get tested. Results may surprise you. You may be able to go further. Or it may be bad at 2k miles. You'll never know if you don't test it. It will also show anything that may be a problem now or later in that sample.
I was doing 12,000 mile oil and filter changes on my 2001 Ford explorer sport trac till i retired! It now has 215,000 miles on original engine. OIL ANALYSIS BABY 👍💯
@billy2bob63 💯💯 that bit of info in an analysis goes a long way!!
“I would rather rely on data, than someone else’s opinion” - Lake Speed Jr.
Best words ever
Yet he says he doesn't like Amsoils marketing (when he says he doesn't care about marketing)........instead of looking at the science behind Amsoil......and why they are so good.
@@Painting_Inspiration he likes amsoil.
Which is hilarious, because in his videos his tests are skewed, half baked, or incomplete. The data he relies on is ultimately his opinion. I'll give him credit for being like a magician though. Nobody seems to notice what he doesn't show.
@mediocreman2 what did we not show? Literally showed changing oil and filter. Putting on a new filter. Adding oil. Putting it in a container. Data from 4 oil changes. You need a hug this morning? Your cranky. Your name says it all mediocreman. That's all you'll ever be.
Interesting looking at my 0w20 6k mi sample to your 5w30 , surprised to see 8.8 on mine for viscosity at 100c vs your 9.2 . I was leary how thin 0w20 seems
Thats pretty interesting. This while testing thing is interesting to me.
Why did the oxidation value change from 8.6 in the previous video to 17.8 in this video (for the 7258 mile analysis)?
@beastuct he explained why also explained why in the last oil analysis video. And in the comments
From what I understand, UOA’s do not indicate varnish buildup. This is generally the disadvantage to long OCI’s. Particularly the piston oil rings slowly becoming contaminated. The UOA looks good though, good oil.
I’m actually about to do my first UOA with Lake. I’m currently using Motul X-cess gen 2 5w-40 in my 23 F150 5.0 & Ceratec.
UOA will indicate. When you hit the 35-40 mark on oxidation is when you start to get sludge or varnish. I mean it doesn't tell you if it's in there. But if your below that. You should be fine
Just as a note, Lake Speed is very against oil additives in his many latest videos and Ceratec had terrible results. The only one I am aware of that is acceptable is the BG MOA product. I can link the video if him talking about additives both oil and gasoline.
@@Balticblue93 I have not seen anything from him about Ceratec. It’s mentioned in one video of his oil additives videos, but without any UOA showing any real info. Definitely send me the link if I am missing something. The purpose of Ceratec is apply the ceramic coating to the internals of the engine, not modify the chemistry of the oil. Although it does contain Molly. Love to see some actual proof of these “terrible” results because every engine I’ve used it in runs smoother and I get increased MPG. He actually says very little about MOS2 or Ceratec in his oil additives video, starting around 15:44.
@@DW-Truck His comment on oil additives was more about the potential chemical reactions that can happy with your oil. He said in some cases it might become acidic or it might dilute the original additive package, while too much of some can diminish the effectiveness of others. It's not so much that the additives are bad, it's that it's hard to know whether they will work, be neutral or potentially cause harm to your particular engine in your particular operating conditions. I think a lot of additives do probably have benefits (like Project Farm running lawnmowers without oil for an hour after treatment) but that's a short term test so PH and sludge isn't so much of a factor when it's going to blow up in an hour either way. Just my take on it, I've had some additives that seemed to quiet things too. YRMV...
@@mikelemoine4267 Agreed, I’m not expecting any magic from it. I do think Ceratec being classified as an oil additive is a little disingenuous. Now it does contain a liquid and a solid modifier, the liquid is molly, but the solid is a ceramic based modifier that uses the oil system to deliver the product around the engine. This is the main benefit. It also takes a few hundred miles to do its job / heat activated. They claim this ceramic based modifier binds to the metal at a molecular level and adds an additional layer of protection. I’m not scientist, but from my experience and I’ve built / balanced a few engines in my time, this seems to be true. I experience the quietest cold starts and improved idle, less vibrations, & improved MPG. I don’t tend to push my oil very long, it will be interesting to see what Lake says about this UOA. I’m going to do my first one at about 4k miles in to the change and see what it looks like. I will say, if you look at the reviews on Amazon, they pretty much universally recommend and mimic what I am saying. Very popular in the German car community and I don’t experience the infamous Coyote tick or knock that others do.
Great video! I would like to see how close or how accurate a F-150 (or other models) oil life indicator is when compared to what oil analysis says. Just to see how well Ford or other manufactures algorithm is. That would be an interesting video as well.
@arealist8344 that would be cool. But there's a lot of factors. And how you drive is one. Everyone's will be different. But would be very interesting
Simple ,Short oil change intervals are always better then long change intervals, it is a fact, undeniable truth ,so change your oil sooner rather then later
Data says otherwise. This is why we test it. So shorter isn't a proven fact it's better. If ypu watched the entire video you would know he literally did that
@ i have to watch the whole video, i fast forward tru most of it, unfortunately 🙂
@davidducovny1367 we have had tests done at 2k 3k and 5k. Some were good some were not. Shorter intervals do not mean it's good
Currently everything I own is turbo. The thing I worry about with auto start stop is varnish on the turbo bearings & seals. Thoughts?
@texacajundiy not off long enough to do that. That would be when you turn it off for the day. Which is why you let the turbo cool before shutting it down. People don't do that they just shut it off. Let it idle for Teo min to being Temps back down then shut it off. It still keeps a constant temp during auto start stop events. Never had a turbo get build up because of it. But I have seen buildup because of idling.
Well done
my take away I am using 0W-20 for 10k km interval
however, for 20k km interval I am considering AMSOIL signature series for that I need to use 5W-30 so it will thin out to 0W-20 level at the end of oil change interval.
@othman0077 it won't thin out to a 0w20. The longer you go then it will be on the higher end of the 30 range. It starts at the low end of the 30. He explained this in the used oil video before this one. It's the way amsoil is designed
Wish oil analysis wasn't so expensive. $60. I do my own oil changes on my prius prime so 5 quarts of royal purple is only $35. Might as well save money and do an oil change instead of an analysis. Even 5 quarts of amsoil with filter is only $79.
$60 is well worth an analysis though. You can catch problems before they become catastrophic. But that is entirely up to you. I understand what your saying
I've always wondered if the start stop nature of a hybrid damages the engine. It cycles off and on even at 55 to 70 mph. I thought it might have an electric oil pump to prime the system before it starts but it doesn't which means it's cycling back on without oil pressure.
I use the prius for uber and already have 250,000 miles on my 2022 prius prime. Only use premium oils royal purple or amsoil ss every month 8k to 10k miles.
Royal purple? Gross. You can get Penzoil ultra plat for less and it's much better oil. RP is overpriced mid-tier oil. If you want an actual premium oil use Amsoil.
This is also peak poor people thinking. It's not about that one oil change, it's about the money saved over the life of the car.
@@OtisFlint yeah I'm not a fan of royal purple either
@OtisFlint
Also the better fuel mileage with Amsoil SS.
RP is no good anymore. It used to be decent many years ago until it was bought out, and now it's made cheap.
thats oil filter spot is grounds to fight the engineers
@MoeChins nah. For two reasons.
Reason 1. The wheel doesn't have to come off. I did that cause last video I didn't and people complained. So I did in this one. And people complain.
Reason 2. It was probably designed in a better location. Then the bean counters came in and wanted to save $0.07 per vehicle and relocated it.
It's really not bad. Can easily do it with the tire on
Tgdi engines are especially important not to go to far on the interval. That oil gets cooked in the lines so you want as much protection for bearings as possible.
I'm aware. But look at the data
Awesome to have Lake Speed Jr. analyze your oil analysis. 👍Subscribed.
He did the last 3 as well. He's my go to for oil analysis or oilnrelated questions. Dude is a genius. Thanks for the sub!
Wow, 12 minutes to change the stinking filter & that doesn't include the extra minute it will take to replace the wheel & torque the lug nuts down. That's on a lift! What a PIA... That said, the oil analysis is truly the best way to know what your engine is doing & how well your oil is working for you. Lake has become one of my favorite TH-camrs to listen to. It's just fascinating to listen & learn from him as he shows you real data from oil testing. I just subscribed so I won't miss your next oil change.
Yeah normally doesn't take thay long for a filter. I don't normally remove the tire. But I did for this video so I would have at least somewhere to mount the camera. Lake is an awesome dude and explains the data very well. Thank your for subbing at watching.
@@BeardedFordTech My brother has nearly the same pickup and uses Amsoil exclusively but in the Signature series with the EAO34 filter. I filled his filter while waiting for him and put oil on the gasket before handing it to him. He asked if I had filled it, and I said I did, he frowned. Well, it all soaked up in the filter media and when he put the filter on and screwed it tight, no oil came out of the filter. So, I do that now for all filters and works great. I fill them up and wait a second and it all absorbs into the filter media, and you are good to go. Just food for thought. I still do the flood mode to build oil pressure, but the only vehicle I can't do that with is the Ford Fusion Hybrid. But I can fill the filter to the top before I screw it on, so I don't of a way to force it into a starter mode on a hybrid. It won't even start the engine unless I start driving or use the AC compressor/Defroster.
amsoilcontent.com/ams/graphs/eao/filterspecs.pdf
Oil fell out of viscosity at the first change. SAE viscosity 9.3 at 100c is the low end on 5w-30 viscosity.
@@brianmaloney5430 yep. He explained why. Because it goes back up when it starts to oxidize. He explained that in detail
How much add oil did you put in your truck up to the 10k oil sample.
@brianmaloney5430 none. Never had to add any. Was never low. Truck doesn't burn oil.
I always turn off start/stop. I used to leave it on when I first got this car but EVERY SINGLE TIME traffic would start moving again the instant I came to a full stop and the engine shut off. I wish I could permanently disable it but not possible on my car without hacking the ECU.
Why kind of car? Turn your ac on full blast. Or turn your ac on and put it on defrost. That will keep it from shutting off
@@BeardedFordTech 2018 Volvo V60. As long as it's trying to get interior temp within range it stays disabled but once the temp is nice it starts working again. After I was on a 9 months medical driving restriction I had some battery issues which kept it from working but the battery warnings were bothering me so I had to fix that.
@Gizmo42Rodeo yeah if the ac is on full blast it will deactivate due to hesting/cooling. Once the cab temp is stable it turns off. Once it raises it come back on. Defrost will keep it from coming on.
Just get a hybrid. Start and stop is so seamless you don’t even feel or hear it and ac or power and torque is never affected
@@TaylorPhase 😁 I found out recently that a vehicle with auto start stop is considered a hybrid. Blew my mind they never taught us that in manufacturer training
Lake said I should wait for next change since I just switched to amsoil from motocraft semi synthetic. I might still do it for an experiment. Great vid bro
@@kingranch8516 yes. That way there isn't residual motorcraft in there with the amsoil. It's for best accurate results. Thank you! Thanks for watching.
I am like you, I know that Lake says to wait and so does Valvoline to do a 2nd or even a third change to get all the old residual oil out of the engine, but I don't as I like to still see what is going on. I am testing the new Valvoline Restore and Protect currently in one of my daily drivers and it is going to be interesting to see the results on paper and in the engine. Also, going to switch over to only Top Tier gasoline that are approved by that website. In my case in Colorado, I am going to switch over to Shell Nitro V-Power gasoline from Maverick Eco 88. I am going to bore scope before and after each oil change which I do at 5000 miles. This particular car calls for 10k changes from Ford, but I did that a few times and it made me nuts even on Amsoil. But one oil I will never use again after their reformulation and filter changes is Mobil1. It is nothing like it was 3-5 years ago and neither are the filters. I put a lot of miles on all our vehicles and toys, so lots of testing being done.
@BeardedFordTech I recently bought a tool that cuts open my filters as I am wondering what type of sooting/gunk I would be seeing with oil runs and specific oil types. I would be curious what a cut open on your Ford OEM filters look like after a 10-12K run this next go around. One of the parameters of filter design is some filters have more capacity to absorb contaminants within a filter. One of the attractive things about the filters I am running now is the Purolator Boss, which bench marked tops or close to tops was it's filtration media down to ~ 20 or less micros, but also its bypass pressure profile and its capacity to hold trapped dirt/oil contaminates, eg, greater than 9 grams capacity. I would be curious to see what your filters look like during data point lab profiles of you next run with Extended Life Amsoil.
@jameszeiger8533 I still have the filter from this video. I didn't throw it away. I can do a video cutting it open. Purolator boss is a great filter. I prefer the amsoil filters. Both of those are very close. When I first started this testing they didn't have any amsoil filters in stock. So I went with motorcraft and stuck to it for testing. This time I'm back on the amsoil filter. That's why I left the old filter in the drain. To cut it open.
@@BeardedFordTech Oh dude! Do it! I am guessing your filter didn’t go into bypass due to media saturation & plugging with 10K miles because if it did, your oil profile with Lake would not have look as good as it did. But, I am curious as F-bomb to see just how much was picked up over 10K miles…👍
@@jameszeiger8533 I can do it. It didn't go into bypass. I'm 100 perfect sure of that. I'll cut it open this week.
20 microns is still pretty large. Only takes a 5 micron speckle of metal to destroy your engine
@@christophervanzetta yes. This is true. Which is why (on the fleet trucks) I put on dual bypass systems. It goes down to 2 micros
2014 F150 3.5L ecoboost. 320000 kilometers has never and has not to date ever used oil. Amsoil signature series in conjunction with Amsoil dual remote filter kit that uses a large primary(Eo26) filter and a bp100 bypass filter. I could use the smaller bp90 filter but using the 100 makes it easy as full capacity for engine is now 8 qts on the dot. So two gallon jugs is perfect. Cheaper by the gallon and case. I usually do 8-10k kilometer intervals but am very interested in doing oil analysis to see how things look
Using kilometers I'm sure your not in the US. May be kind of hard. Reach out to lake speed on the website and ask. As far as bypass goes. I have two different 6.7 powersrtokes at work with a dual kit on them.
I change my oil once a year on my gmc sierra 5.3. With amsoil signature series. I only drive about a thousand miles a year.is this bad for my truck I worry about the cylinder deactivation problem and I want to be safe I live on Long Island New York
@johnmcalisterjr3913 1000 miles a year on signature series. You should be just fine. We'll protected. I would get rid of cylinder deactivation though. That destroys lifters.
I also have a catch can.and have the auto stop start disabled only have 5 thousand miles in 5 years my weekend vehicle
@johnmcalisterjr3913 catch can is good. Start stop on gm isn't that great so that's good you disabled it. Ford's start stop reduced engine wear on my truck. I don't know why gm start stop seems so weak. Even a friend who works for gm said they use very weak starters. So it's good you disabled that one. If it was a different brand vehicle I'd say otherwise.
I wish this video was made months ago. My 2022 surburban need engine replacement at 82k. Changed miles every 2000-2500 miles. Was dumbfounded the engine didn't reach 100k
@ravieprasaud4527 ah yes. I have a 2022 tahoe (three of them.actuslly at work) one of them is on its second engine. The lifters keep failing.
Thank You for the great info. Appreciate the details and explanations from both of you.
Your welcome. Got a video of a clean sample of the new Amsoil Synthetic Blend coming up soon. I wanted to see the chemical makeup so I sent some off.
You have a date issue with the two far right samples. So, like with oxidation you have to read column three before column four to know the progression.
The two far right samples aren't date issues unless that got put in wrong. Look at the mileage of when they were changed. That's when the trend started.
Full turn is probably why. I think 2/3-3/4 turn is about right. Full turn had me going for filter pliers on the F-150.
@vais3 says 3/4 to 1 full turn in the workshop manual. Least it wasn't impacted on 🤣
@@BeardedFordTech I wish I could laugh react to this comment. 😂
@@BeardedFordTech, it was nice to hear what Lake had to say about the oil analysis based on your driving habits. I took 5-10 minutes squinting at the screen and created my own assessment based on the data there but what caught me off guard was the presence of manganese. Wasn’t sure where that came from. Now I feel a bit more knowledgeable regarding that. I’m definitely agreeing with Lake. 12k miles may be the threshold. Your oxidation took off there at the end despite everything holding up well.
@@vais3 I bet the next results at 12k will actually be better across the board than the current 10k mileage change. We'll see if my hunch is correct or not. Can't wait to see the video and results!!
@@Balticblue93 it wouldn’t exactly be apples to apples. The formulation of the oil has changed but I am curious to see the results. I don’t see how it could be better at additional mileage but the new formulation may have something to do with that. His data currently shows the oil at the upper threshold of its service life.
When sending the analysis do you send a small sample also of the new oil that you’re going to use before adding it into your car in order to set a baseline?
No. He already knows what he is looking at. But to get a bigger picture that would help a lot so you know what you can compare to. That's an awesome idea.
Want to see a test with signature series AMSoil please!
I'm testing signature series now. A lot people asked for it. I have to do two oil chaages to make sure I'm testing straight signature series and not residual xl series 😁 one more oil change.
Man this was cool. I learned a lot about oil in this video. Thank you
Your very welcome. Thank you for watching.
I have a ticking lifter or rocker on my 2011 Taurus (non-turbo 3.5). The noise is coming from the intake side of cylinder 5. Is this a DIY repair? I have to remove the plenum to change the spark plugs anyway, so pulling the valve cover won't be much extra work.
If it's the actual lifter ticking. It tedious. Not saying you can't do it. But there is a lot involved. Just just removing the valve cover.
Try AMSOIL engine flush and the XL series oil and see if that helps. It eliminated a number of ticks for me.
Question, would you consider your vehicle driving severe service? if so wouldn't your OCI with Amsoil XL be at 12,000 miles sense that what they rate it at for severe service? If so would you personally then move up to Signature series to get the extra 3,000 miles of oil life under severe service?
Xl has a new blend. It's rated for 20k miles. My vehicle is normal daily driver. Not severe service. I won't use signature. For some reason xl works better in my truck. I wouldn't get an extra 3k from signature series. Now take into consideration the original formula was 12k miles. The oil was sent for analysis in this video was the 20k new blend. The one before was the 12k mile one. He did say there's possible residual of that oil in this test. That's why he said go to 12k and we will look at oxidation values again
Will the ferrous detector work with aluminum blocks/pistons?
@@jefftrimm7806 look at the results. It shows what would be blocks and listens in there.
I shake my engine oil bottle before i pour it. Do you do the same? I no longer put engine oil on the gasket.
@chrisr.986 yes I shake the bottle. I put oil on the gasket cause I cleaned the surface where it goes. It was bone dry. It would really be stuck then
To understand the Oxidation, is this the same oil over the 10K miles or oil with only 2776 miles? I'm assuming this is the 4th Oil Sample from same Oil and it's 10K miles on oil, although the 4th sample indicates a "new" version of oil. Wouldn't the 4h sample be the same oil, and the 5th sample (1st of New Oil) be the New version of Oil. To have 4 oil samples on same oil, is this to watch the values to determine the max safe milage on the Oil? The previous 3 samples were drawn from Dipstick, not drain plug?
This is the area that always confuses me on several videos... Speed Jr has always said to run 1st oil change short, due to new engine break-in... like 500-3000 miles tops. Then start with higher milage analysis on 2nd oil change to obtain estimated milage per oil change. Is it healthy to run 10K miles on first Oil of new vehicle?
All samples were drawn from drain plug. No this is one sample that went 10k miles. The previous 3 samples were the old formula. The 4th is a new formula. I didn't take samples. At different intervals and keep going to 10k. Each sample was a complete oil change. All samples taken from drain plug. Never sucked through dipstick tube. If it's a brand new engine. Got 500-1000 miles. Change to oil. Then go to 5k. Do another change. Go to 5k. Send it off for testing. Then you will be able to tell how far you can go. Do not go 10k on just any kind of oil.
@@BeardedFordTech OK, my bad... I was reading Milage as Odometer, not milage. So vehicle has apx 17,200 miles on it. I've had Oil Samples from AmsOil and they show both Odometer & Milage. Relooking at report doesn't show Odometer, thank you for clarification. Great Video, enjoy the discussions with Speed Jr.
@dougcjohn no. Your making this more complicated than it is. My truck has 69k miles on it. The first sample i went 4k miles. The next was like 5k the next was 7k. The last one was 10k. I just keep extending the oil changes each time during testing. Now I'm testing signature series. I will go 5k miles. Drain the oil send it off to test. The next drain will be 8k send it off to test. The next one after that is 10k. Send it off so on and so on. The video shows you the mileage on my truck. The miles in the report is how many miles I went on that oil sample
2005 accord v6 351,000 been changing the oil every 10,000 since new except for the breakin at 1000
Runs like a champ doesn't it. And you did the right thing. 1k break in service. 99% of people neglect that
Some oils have high oxidation numbers right out of the bottle and we can run them fine? Why is that?
@tonysteele3805 thays a question for lake speed. I sent a clean sample of the new synthetic blend. Oxidation wasn't really high. Usually between 12 and 15 if I recall is what he said
@@BeardedFordTech Yeah I'll ask him because I know that some Mobil1 ESP and I think the Euro is 32 or something out of the box. Something to do with the ester or AN blending. Very interesting thanks for your video and good luck with your truck!
@tonysteele3805 trucks running go just fabulous. I did have some shift issues with no check engine light. Then it popped on. Wasn't even the transmission. Was the egr differential pressure sensor. Lucked out on that one
I use amsoil signature series which has a rating of 25,000 mi but I still change my oil every 7500 mi OEM specifications it's still pretty dirty at 7,500 mi and I run a magnetic drain plug
@@jaynearman256 dirty doesn't mean it's bad.it means it's doing it's job. Send it in to get a test. You may be surprised
Nothing worry 0 w or 5 w during winter.xl amsoil still doing good job.
Yeah I wouldn't use a 0w where I live. But amsoil hold up fantastically
U@@BeardedFordTechI'm from michigan.i still use 5w-30 all season nothing hurting i drive 07 Impala LS.ford guyvwho had old ford truck using Chevron regular oil where brutally cold in alaska he still used it.
@@Craig-l2l nice!!
Such a pain to do that filter! Wow!
@@teagreen2220 everyone keeps saying that. No it's really not. You don't have to remove the tire. I did that for the video. You can easily do it with the tire on. Last time I did that people told me to take the tire off. So I did for this one.
@@BeardedFordTech cool, I have not been a Ford guy since the early 80s. I was hoping Ford would not be so hard to do regular maintenance now. Good video!
If the high oxidation value is the problem, then what about ester oils where the initial value is already high due to the ester?
That's a question for lake speed. Values could have been. High values could be residual from the old formula still in the engine from the last change.
Why not signature series. I believe that’s the best oil Amsoil makes.
@user-bz3ts7yf2b because it doesn't do well in my engine for where I live and how I drive. Just because it's their top of the line doesn't mean it's for everyone. However this was a few years ago and xl seemed to work better. I can try testing signature series after this 12k mile test.
Will the oil analysis tell me my oil is good or bad in layman’s terms or will I have to know how to read it like a scientist?
@@kevhino260 it will tell you if it's good by a green indicator in the top right. And the comment box below the report they will tell you
I wanted to add that it’s important to know the starting oxidation number. For example, Amsoil’s Signature Series oil tends to have a starting value of at least 40 and upwards of 60, but it’s by formulation and not degradation. Using esters is one key difference for example and their XL line offers a solid starting point indicating a smaller percentage but still notable compared to entirely group III or III+ which may or may not be formulated with additional esters to the point it’s base oxidation value is increased. In the context of this video, he mentions 35-40 as a condemnation limitation. Could you ask him to clarify how to understand oxidation increase in those such oils with much higher starting oxidation?
See if I can get him to comment. I did ask about starting g oxidation on xl. It's usually 9-12.
He texted me
If we were talking about an Ester blend (which we were not) I would have referenced that they start at a higher level and then change base on use. Since Ester blended products are the exception rather than the rule, our discussion did not cover those differences.
So … what are the numbers for oxidation and viscosity you do not want to go beyond?
Oxidation is 35-40 is where the oil is dead. 35 on this report due to it may still having residual oilnfrom the last change which was the old formula. Next oil analysis will tell.
I do 5000 mile changes usually 200-250 hours with Amsoil signature series. 10k is scary to me 😅
@freedomisntfree_44 your running signature series going 5k. Send it off to test. You may surprise yourself.
@@BeardedFordTech she’s got 300k miles, I’ll get a sample check and see what I got
@@freedomisntfree_44 😁😁
Don't let Lake know that you didn't pre-fill the filter before installation..is messy to pre-fill sideways fitting filters.
@grudd61 he knows. But it's called flood mode. And he even talked about it in one of his videos. For sideways filters and cartridge and upside down filters you do flood mode. I always do flood mode. Even on regular filters that I don't prefill.
Why not use the signature series Amsoil? Price difference is only $2/quart
I get lower wear metals with Amsoil xl I don’t really like signature series.
I’m going to send a set of GEN-3. You would have been done with that filter so quick.
Lol. Ended up using my JM3 Gen1 to break loose. Only Gen 3 I have is for the powerstroke
Back in the day Amsoil suggested 25,000 miles or one year if you used their filter. Thoughts?
Also, gas in diesel? Doesn't that destroy the engine? Jesus! Is that more or less to replace than a failed CP4?
I also have my 200,000mi service scheduled for Monday. I wish I had purchased 5W-40 Amsoil for the 6.7. Next time I suppose.
@GuretoSefirosu they do have 25,000 mile one year. That's the signature series. I run the XL series. They have put gas in the diesels at work. It can destroy the pump. But usually I drain the tank. Flush it. Change filters. Prime system. Good to go.
They still have their flagship product line which is the Signature Series and the EAO filter line is for 25k usage along with the oil. The filter the Bearded Ford Tech installed a 15k mileage filter not the EAO product line. EAO34 in this case.
Not much of us fall into the 25K miles driving condition. Most all driving would classify as severe. With our mixture of sto and go traffic, extreme heat in some climates (especially in the desert areas), always follow the severe service intervals.
@ksamos true. Like ford's definition of sever for diesel is fleet, idling more than 10 min, long trips etc etc. For the gasoline their definition of severe is fleet, taxi, police.
@@ksamos I 100% agree. I treat all vehicles with severe service based on the criteria listed as severe. I only do 5000 mile oil changes on most of my vehicles besides a sports car, motorcycle and boat. I wouldn’t even do a 15k OCI. Hell, I won’t do 10k. But I will use the best oil and filter money can buy. But nearly all vehicles fall under severe service conditions.
Why in the world would they put the filter in such an inconvenient place? Wow.
@brianodonnell7076 okay so we are back to these comments. I will say this one last time because nobody ever reads the comments where the answer is. This is not directed toward you.
It is not in an inconvenient spot. The tire does not have to be removed to remove the filter. Just a few of those plastic pop rivets to move the wheel well protector over. The last time I did this I didn't take the tire off and people complained they couldn't see. So I thought to myself. I'll tske the tire off and mount the camera up there. Now everyone switches up and says man thats a inconvenient location. When I was literally doing what they asked. It really doesn't take long to change the filter. Could they have put it under the truck. I'm sure they could have. But all the 2.3 liters are like thay. Even the mustang.
Hi, my safe fantastic channel a lot of great information. Want to ask a question I got a Honda Civic CVT doing a transmission flush soon which in your experience would you say is the best fluid brand to put in Amsoil Valvoline or just OEM?
Never had an issue with the amsoil cvt fluid. As we all know nissans has horrible cvt problems. A lady at work has one. We switched hers to amsoil about 2 years ago. She has not had one single issue with it. I can't speak for the others as I haven't tried them. But I will say you are safe with amsoil cvt fluid.
Only Amsoil products for my vehicles.
@@ksamosIf you don’t mind paying exponentially more for the name, sure
I have a 2019 F150 3.5 Eco here in Canada. 8000kms interval with Motorcraft filter and Mobil 1 5w30 synthetic. Thats the only synthetic my dealer offers.Its my daily driver with a one way commute of 17km or 10 miles with a mix of driving.Does occasional towing of 6000lbs on some hway trips.By 8000kms Im usually at 25% oil life ,in winter its closer to 15%.Is Mobil 1 really that bad? Or are other oils that much better? Ive been wanting to do an oil analysis to see how this oil is performing, truck has 121000kms and engine running A1.New spark plugs at 100000kms,no cold start rattle of any sort.
@jasonbrushett2005 yeah mobil 1 is not great at all. Pennzoil untra platinum is good. Amsoil is good. Or the full synthetic motorcraft
@@BeardedFordTech I am going to see if my dealer can order the MotorCraft full synthetic for me.Love your channel btw
@jasonbrushett2005 I wonder why a ford dealer doesn't have motorcraft in stock. That's mind blowing to me. Full synthetic comes.in the quart jugs. So it's not in bulk
@@BeardedFordTech
I believe Mobil 1 flows best at extreme cold temperatures that happen during our Canadian Winter's.
That's when engine wear is most likely to occur.
That's why I use Mobil 1.
@sameold5050 okay. So what about when it's at operating temp and is wearing your engine out? I understand cold flow protection. But you need it at operating temp too.
Nice man...I change Amsoil SS at 10k and the filter at 5k on a GM 2.7 turbo
I change oil and filter at the same time. If I'm doing one I'm doing the other. What year 2.7?
2023
@srf6161 very nice
The filter is so easy it can't hurt 👍🏻
@srf6161 true. But just a preference. I do them both at the same time. Nothing wrong with what your doing at all
Im glad you struggled a bit with the filter. You are obviously a Professional Tech and I just have more tools than talent and i would curse the filter everytime on my Lariat Ranger.
Not sure what you mean? You being sarcastic or do you curse the filter everytime? It's like back in 2015 the dealership parts manager had a 2009 f250. No matter what we did the filter was sooooo tight. I think he went back and tightened the crap out of it to be honest.
@BeardedFordTech definitely not being sarcastic. It was a pain everytime and I was the only one to change the oil. My 2.3 Explore was way easier to remove the filter.
@darringusko8539 yeah the explorers are easy. The tire doesn't need to come off on the ranger. You can do it with it on. But last time I left it on people complained and b*tched so I took if off for this video. And guess what. They still b*tch about it. Can win.
I when through five 25+k oil changes on a 2014 camary and it was running like a new car when I had to let it go.
Why did you let it go? If ypu don't mind me asking.
@@BeardedFordTech the car was wrecked.
10k miles. Yikes! I’m waiting for the result but instead of going long with boutique oil would it be better to use the cheapest bulk oil at 1/3 the interval? I guess you have the cost of labour. I see it with the mindset of doing it myself. I do use synthetic oil and not too many km’s but I short trip all the time.
I see. This is a good process of gradually extending the interval and testing and confirming it’s working.
No you wouldn't be safer with the cheapest bulk going shirt distance. Shirt distance can still kill oil. It really depends on how you drive. That's why you need to get it tested
Cheaper oil equals less protection. Oil is cheap, engines are expensive. My 2014 F-150 STX with the 3.7L (non eco-boost) is still going strong with 260k miles using Amsoil. No engine work ever needed to date. Just routine maintenance and servicing. I did get the tranny rebuilt around 240k as it was sticking in 5th gear on cold starts. Most likely was just a bad main lead or solenoid, but out of an abundance of caution, had it rebuilt. If you want longevity, buy the best for your vehicle.
Why is so hard to get to an oil filter?
@enyelator1239 why does everyone keep asking that? The tire doesn't have to be removed. I did it for the video. Last time I did it I didn't remove the tire and everyone complained. So I removed it this time and everyone keeps asking why it's so hard to get to. It's not. It clear access behind the fender liner. Tire doesn't have to be removed. I did so for the purpose of this video. Want a hard oil filter. That would be a ram 2500 with a cummins. It's a PITA
@@BeardedFordTech I just never seen a gas vehicle with an oil filter in such a bad location.
What are the name of them filter wrenches sir?
@adrianrobinson7953 JM3
Tell him I sent you. He has a live chat option on the site. And it's the owner you talk to when chatting tell him I said hi
www.jm3oilfilterwrench.com/
How come carbon is not on the chart? great video
That's a good question. I'll have to ask.
@lc46002 got your answer. I text him and he replied as follows.
The element Carbon is part of the oil molecule itself, so it would be in everything. In a diesel, we do measure soot.
Can you pull off your valve cover so we can see?
You know how hard it is to pull a valve cover off a ranger? Then I have to replace the gasket and the high pressure fuel line. Let me do more oil analysis then pull it off. I can probably stick a bore scope in there for the time being
@@BeardedFordTech worst you can say is no. A bore scope would be cool. Btw how do you like your ranger?
@777theright88 I love my ranger. Wasn't trying to be rude. I would love to pull the valve cover. Just a lot of work to do it. High pressure pump has to come off too. I could probably pull the oil pan when I do the next change to send off. Until then I can borescope it
@777theright88 why do you want to see under the valve cover he just had the oil analyzed???
@@chrisr.986 Because i want to and think it would be cool.
Oil filter relocation!
It's not that bad. You don't have to remove the tire. I did for the video because last time I didn't and people complained. So I did for this one. And guess what. People complain. Is what it is
new oil formula, new starting oxidation level.... what was it to start with?
Go look at the previous result. He explained it
@@BeardedFordTech no he didn't. no oil starts at 0 some start even higher than 25. What does your current oil start at?
@cuoresportivo155 guess I need to send in a virgin sample
@@BeardedFordTech or wait for the next 12k sample. just don't compare with a different formula which you used before. If it's truly accelerated oxidation, another 2k will have the oxidation MUCH higher
@cuoresportivo155 yeah I know. But he explained that it could be residual from the old formula. That's why he said 12k change maybe be different
Manganese additive… that explains a few pulls from back then. 😂😂😂😂
@@H33t3Speaks pedal monster 🤣
@@BeardedFordTech My family said if I drive it "like that" I have to fix it myself, way back when.... and here I am.
@@H33t3Speaks lol. It's cool. I know a guy. I don't really get on it much. But that actually came from fuel additive. He explained it in there.
@@BeardedFordTech I know, what I’m saying is that he also said some waivers were handed out during C19 that allowed for increased (perhaps effectively unregulated) amounts of MMT (and other additives I’m sure) in fuel to maintain the needed octane ratings. According to Wikipedia, MMT production was phased out totally in the US by 2021: so burning off old stock makes sense to me.
I was doing a spirited climb up a mountain at sunset and as I crested the range I shifted from 4th to 6th, which shot out some blue flames from the tail pipes. More MMT per volume and the stoichiometry of the mountainous air probably had a lot to do with why that happened.
That backfire scared me, to be quite honest. It was LOUD and I wasn’t moving slowly.
@@H33t3Speaks 😲😲 dang. I bet that did scare you. Would've scared me too
Is that there new oil or is it just a revised formula.
It's a new formula for the XL series
12k is the Severe service for the AMSOIL XL series
@oliverramclam6009 yep. I realized that afterward. Even though I don't drive severe. It's turbo. Which would be considered severe. So it's doing what it's supposed to do. Says it on the back if the bottle too. Someone brought it to my attention
@@BeardedFordTech but with the 10k you put on and that being a turbo engine the results are great . It’s safe to run the XL series for the duration of the oil life monitor. With that being said folks are getting better results with AMSOIL XL series than there Signature series idk
Great job. Personally though I would stick with the motorcraft filter. I’ve seen them both cut open and I think the Motorcraft is superior. I like their filter media better and most of the time they use an upper bypass valve that’s near the top of the filter or at the very least the bypass valve is at the bottom of the can integrated in the cartridge, while the soil filter, which is made by labs, put the bypass valve in the leaf spring with the leaf spring being stuck in the bottom end of the filter cartridge, which I think leaves open the possibility of having unfiltered oil leaked past the leaf spring, and the filter cartridge
OEM filters have really up their game and most of them are really high-quality now
@@jamescaron6465 I cut open a motorcraft filter the other day. I use the can as a pen holder. The bypass valve is a spring at the bottom. I like motorcraft filters. But the amsoild filters filter better. I've used both. And I like both.
Going 10-20k miles. Just replace the oil filter half way through to keep the oil clean.
@@sw23971 I'm doing testing. Replacing just the filter doesn't keep it clean. You have to remember there's an additive pack that gets worn out.
@@BeardedFordTech Not to jinx anything. I have a2006 Sonata that we bought with @25k mile. I've used synthetic since we bought it. I change the oil every 20k miles but I change the filter half way through. The 3.3 V6 now has 160k. It'll still run like a scalded cat if need. Doesn't burn oil or leak. I'm not to sure about the newer cars. It seems some buyers need to change the engine at every oil change.
That’s alot of work for an oil filter
No. That's a lot of work to film a video. That's the only reason I removed the tire. You can remove the oil filter without removing the tire
Good video
Thanks 👍
Old skool engines where the oil drain plug and the filter were next to each other in an easy to access location is gone with the past.... I absolutely hate today's vehicle manufacturing from a maintenance standpoint on sooooooo many levels... The stupidity is just nauseating.
Yep. Although this is still accessible without removing the tire. I still have to remove the little splash shield. And it is a tight spaces. Just about anything that was easy from back then is gone nowadays.
Filter tightens with heat
@@rwkehler1 👍👍💯
I personally will never use another drop of amsoil, after using the one they make for Kohler, it last 300 hours but you have to add a quart every 30 hours as it just burns up lol😂
Regular Kohler oil I can just change every 50 hours without adding a drop.
@@Robert-j9k5i haven't had an issue with their lawn care or marine products. How long ago was this?
@@BeardedFordTech last year,, or 240 hours on motor ago, no leaks, using Kohler 10/30 or 10/40 motor uses about 4 ounces in 50 hours of use, that amsoil 300 hour Kohler oil, used a quart in 30 hours. No thanks
@@Robert-j9k5i oh wow. Haven't come across this issue. Thanks for letting me know. We use it in everything. Even our air compressor st work. Hasn't used a drop.
You have to remove a tire to change an oil filter. This is the first for me.
@@livefreevinnie no. I did it for the video. I don't normally remove it. Even though workshop manual tells you to. You can easily get around it
Plenty of vechicles where you don’t have too but if you got the tools and means to do it, it makes life so much easier
Is this the way it's done at the dealer ?@@BeardedFordTech
@michaelross8036 removing a tire? I don't think they remove the tire even though it says to in the manual. You can get around it. I did it for the video.
My only concern with auto start stop is heat cycling the turbo. Cant be good for it.
@80hdad97 auxiliary (electric) cooling pump circulates coolant to keep it cool. If that Temps rises above a certain threshold it restarts
@@BeardedFordTech interesting, I wasn't aware of that. Good stuff
@@80hdad97 👍👍💯💯
Pretty cool to see these results. I have a 24 ranger with 2.3 eco. I'm doing first oil change today with amsoil signature at 850miles on the clock. I will probably drop again at 3500 then again at 10k then go 8k intervals from there on with amsoil
@@80hdad97 good your doing the 1k oil change that nobody does. Then 3500 is good. 8-10 id what i do. But testing i start at like 5k and go.in increments.
Why not just take samples from the dipstick tube instead of changing all the oil if you wanted to see how far you could go, along with a virgin oil sample.
@codystephens1144 cause I want to see what it is at different mileage. And there is no dipstixk tube. It goes through the valve cover and cylinder head. And there was a virgin sample. Like over a year ago. If i just take samples and keep going is not a good idea. What if it's no good and I'm still driving with it. Thats why you drain it. Safety precaution.
OK thanks, just heard of people doing it that way when testing how long the oil will last
Interesting information. Thank you 😊
@@KaycieCarryl22654 your very welcome. Thank you for watching.
No TBN on the CAT samples either
@kwmiked cause TBN isnt necessary. He explains why he doesn't use it. For when diesels were high sulfer fuels. It would cause the oil to become acidic. That's not a concern anymore.
When I started driving in ‘86 the 3k oil change was the recommendation. I never strayed from that. I’m not doubting the new synthetic oil can last 10k but my concern is it being dirty and carbon riddled. He drove 10k in 290 hrs which averages 34mph. 34 mph is putt putt driving which I understand putt putt driving causes more carbon build up. He may be okay but I couldn’t do it
@HEELMACHINE yeah that was average. There was some long trips in there. And some city driving. So a little putt yeah. I don't race it lol.
@@BeardedFordTechyea I realize you probably do city driving . I drive between 70 and 80 on the freeway 20 miles each way to and from work every day.
@HEELMACHINE 10 miles to work on interstate. But when I don't always go that way. Then when I get off work I have the "honey do" list. The "hey can you go grab this from the grocery store" type stuff
And I checked average speed on my dash. You were dead on 34. That's what it says anyway. I need to do faster driving. Different routes. Thank for bringing that up
Change oil every 3000 miles.. use Mobil 1 or Penzoil ultra. Spend less on a synthetic oil than amzoil oil and change the oil more often
@lrcreamer mobile 1 is garbage. Failed used oil tests. Pennzoil is good. But why change it every 3k and more often if I can save money going longer? Data shows I can go longer and actually saving money rather than (like you) spending money on oil changes every 3k miles and more often. Changing every 3k and more often doesn't mean the oil is good or bad. Only data can show you that. Thanks for your speculation though. Even though we said we trust data. Not someone's speculation. And you using mobil 1 says it all.
@@BeardedFordTech the head motor engineer for Nissan in a interview said if you want to keep a car longevity [ auto press interview) change the oil at 2000. He makes engines for a living and is in charge of all of Nissan engine plant production
@lrcreamer maybe he should design the cvt? We aren't talking about nissans here. I worked at Nissan for a little bit. Not matter what you do with those cars. They break.
This oils has alot of zinc phosphorus and magnesioum yet very little.boron and moly. I rather take thr latest formula of Valvoline Restore and Protect!
More boron and moly doesn't always mean better. Might want to go watch his video on the valvoline. Might surprise you. He even talks about boron and moly
@BeardedFordTech
In regards to moly that osntrue but Boton has alot of benefits.
@btbd2785 true. But. Too much of one thing isn't always good. He did a video on that. Like what additives have in them. And just cause you add it doesn't mean it helps it. I get what your saying though 😁