Good point! An added benefit I suppose, is that you release tension in the log more symetrically this way. And fewer cuts through the bark, to keep the chain sharper for longer. Only downside I see, appart from the extra turn, is that a log so large that you can't hold it back by hand, will land harder on the log-lifters at the 180-turn. Dunno how much those can take before they bend. I have been very careful with my F2+ in that regard! A winsj mounted above the mill could probably help soften the blow. But I recon most dont have a roof over their chainsaw-mill.
EZ Boardwalk bandsaw mill is the only one I know of that angles the blade 15 degrees which helps the blade pull itself through the cut and by not cross cutting requires less effort to cut. So I don't know if the F2 can allow you to rotate the chainsaw into the cut but you could definitely do this when slabbing. See if it helps the cutting. I was also wondering why nobody simply does the return cut from the far end after raising up the log. I do know this throws the saw dust to the other side of the mill and also puts cutting pressure on the log dogs instead of the backstop. Would there be too much pressure on the dogs to do this? It would save the return trip each cut.
I also agree. Have tried bot methods and turning it 180 degree for the second cut worked the best. I have a Logosol F2 chainsaw mill, and your method is also the method mentioned in Logosols user manual.
I’m glad to see you explain it. I’ve always cut that way on my bandmill, but wondered if I wasn’t doing it right because of seeing people on youtube doing quarter turns.
Thanks för explaining this. I noticed ut sais to twist like this in the logosol b751pro manual but it doesnt explain why:) About the third cut. I noticed you cut the backside of the curve. Does it matter if I cut the backside or frontside of the curve as the third cut?
Your right, but to much misinformation out there and excessive viewing may cause interpretation issues! I know you have a thing with Stihl, but are you able to show using other brand.
I can show the brands I like. The fact that I use Stihl is simply due to. For sawmills such as Logosol, I use a thin kerf ripping chain. Unfortunately, in Sweden it is not possible to get hold of longer bars to other brands than Stihl without special ordering from other countries. I would love to run Husqvarna since it comes from Sweden to :) Thinking of buying a Holzfforma G888 to test but out of stock everywhere right now
En sak som uppstod för mig sist var att när jag sågade sista brädan och de skulle bli en regel kvar på stocklyftarna (Logosol F2), så blev den som ett timglas. Bänken är rak och med rätt mått mellan svärd och stocklyft. Stockarna är oftast 5m när detta händer. Jag har tre stocklyftar till 5m, en på 1m andra på 3m och tredje på 4 meter. Vad gör jag för fel?
Om den var tjockare på mitten så har brädan hängt ner mellan stocklyftaran. Om den är tunnare på mitten har den hängt ner utanför stocklyftarna. Du skall aldrig såga tunnare än 2" som sista bräda. Men även det kan varar lite tunt beroende på längd på sista plankan.
Having full hydraulics on my mill to push the wood where I want it and a heavy , steel frame that doesn't flex this doesn't gain anything and adds an extra turn. But I can certainly see the need on lightweight mills such as this, most logs I cut (British Columbia, Canada),would be damaging to something this light.
Good point! An added benefit I suppose, is that you release tension in the log more symetrically this way. And fewer cuts through the bark, to keep the chain sharper for longer. Only downside I see, appart from the extra turn, is that a log so large that you can't hold it back by hand, will land harder on the log-lifters at the 180-turn. Dunno how much those can take before they bend. I have been very careful with my F2+ in that regard! A winsj mounted above the mill could probably help soften the blow. But I recon most dont have a roof over their chainsaw-mill.
EZ Boardwalk bandsaw mill is the only one I know of that angles the blade 15 degrees which helps the blade pull itself through the cut and by not cross cutting requires less effort to cut. So I don't know if the F2 can allow you to rotate the chainsaw into the cut but you could definitely do this when slabbing. See if it helps the cutting.
I was also wondering why nobody simply does the return cut from the far end after raising up the log. I do know this throws the saw dust to the other side of the mill and also puts cutting pressure on the log dogs instead of the backstop. Would there be too much pressure on the dogs to do this? It would save the return trip each cut.
That's correct analysis of the problem imo, and it also makes chocking much easier and safer too. Nice helpful video, thanks.
I agree. 180 degrees is the easiest.
Glad to hear
En fördel med att bara vrida den 90 grader är att man bara behöver kanta sidobräderna på en sida. Men det är väl den enda fördelen🙂
Makes perfect sense to me.
Great that you like it. always difficult to be sure if others understand how I think
Agreed 180 degree much better
I also agree. Have tried bot methods and turning it 180 degree for the second cut worked the best.
I have a Logosol F2 chainsaw mill, and your method is also the method mentioned in Logosols user manual.
I have also tried several variations, but always come back to this way
I’m glad to see you explain it. I’ve always cut that way on my bandmill, but wondered if I wasn’t doing it right because of seeing people on youtube doing quarter turns.
In my opinion your doing it right :) happy milling.
Kudos for å bruke 661'ern! 🙂
Jeg prøvde å sage med 1/4 vending i begynnelsen. Det ble ikke bra på min M5. Nå snur jeg slik du gjør.
Toppen att du kom på ett sätt som fungerar.
Allways does like that
Perfect
Thanks för explaining this. I noticed ut sais to twist like this in the logosol b751pro manual but it doesnt explain why:)
About the third cut. I noticed you cut the backside of the curve. Does it matter if I cut the backside or frontside of the curve as the third cut?
I agree with you 100% .
I get some flack for doing this method!!
Thanks for your time and experiences
Nice then there are at least two who get to straighten boards :)
I appreciate you subscribing to my channel as well sir!!
You live in a beautiful place!🧡🧡🌲👍👍👍
Normally it is very nice here, unfortunately the snow came back yesterday :( and I'm long for spring and warmth
Your right, but to much misinformation out there and excessive viewing may cause interpretation issues! I know you have a thing with Stihl, but are you able to show using other brand.
I can show the brands I like. The fact that I use Stihl is simply due to. For sawmills such as Logosol, I use a thin kerf ripping chain. Unfortunately, in Sweden it is not possible to get hold of longer bars to other brands than Stihl without special ordering from other countries. I would love to run Husqvarna since it comes from Sweden to :) Thinking of buying a Holzfforma G888 to test but out of stock everywhere right now
En sak som uppstod för mig sist var att när jag sågade sista brädan och de skulle bli en regel kvar på stocklyftarna (Logosol F2), så blev den som ett timglas. Bänken är rak och med rätt mått mellan svärd och stocklyft. Stockarna är oftast 5m när detta händer. Jag har tre stocklyftar till 5m, en på 1m andra på 3m och tredje på 4 meter. Vad gör jag för fel?
Om den var tjockare på mitten så har brädan hängt ner mellan stocklyftaran. Om den är tunnare på mitten har den hängt ner utanför stocklyftarna. Du skall aldrig såga tunnare än 2" som sista bräda. Men även det kan varar lite tunt beroende på längd på sista plankan.
Привет, как называется модель логосоля?😊😊😊
It’s the Logosol F2
Having full hydraulics on my mill to push the wood where I want it and a heavy , steel frame that doesn't flex this doesn't gain anything and adds an extra turn. But I can certainly see the need on lightweight mills such as this, most logs I cut (British Columbia, Canada),would be damaging to something this light.
Even at solid sawmills, you can have problems, the log it self is under tension. but clearly the risks are much smaller.
"Everything is a spring" is an old engineering proverb for a reason. It all depends on the forces and dimensions.