the idea with the thickening of the walls is great but saw this a bit too late i needed this for the boost port on my tomos atx that i moded to fit a 75cc kit for minarelli vertical
Vidim ovdje jako puno truda i vremena i puno dobrih rjesenja. Jedino sto mozda nebi bilo lose da je umjesto tekuceg metala nekome dat da jnavari aluminija. A brate ova flandja od frgazera s 2x90 stupnjeva mi je ko prstom u oko :)
Nice video, greetings from Finland! Motip engine paint is my faforite paint for this kind of aplication. Im building Old Puch engine with JPC Autisa 65cc cylinder and had to do same kind of job for engine cases.
Hi! There are some good in depth videos on TH-cam already done by people with way more knowlegde than I have. I am at the beginning of understanding two strokes as well and you just have to try stuff out, with the help of other peoples knowledge ofcourse. Sometimes it works, sometimes you destroy a cylinder or other parts, which happened to me too. Trust yourself, try it out. Worst thing that could happen is some materialistic damage. You can do it!
@@Tomology yea I’ve been learning more day by day but you guys should make more vids to I love watching them and would love to see the top speed of this engine in a bike!
Hey. At 6:49 is it worth shaving the piston at the bottom to match the port? or is it best to leave it as is? Great videos by the way. Not enough content like this on youtube for Tomos people. Cheers from Liverpool UK x
@@Tomology my parmakit cylinder arrived today and i honestly thought i would have enough metarial on the a55/a52 case to open up the transfers without jb weld . I was sadly wrong :( i'm a little scared to use jb weld .. Which type did you use for this ? Did it hold up well and not fall off ? I'm also thinking of just sticking the cylinder on as is but then the potential gains of having the huge transfers matched would be amazing .
@@tttrrriiipppyyy Yes you need to weld or epoxy extra material to the cases. Use original JB Weld. I've used it before on my blue cafe racer and many other people used it without any issues. Good luck with your Parmakit project!
Cool, i did the same job in June. 74cc Airsal reworked on a Puch 4v. Allways check the cylinder piston kit like you did. Nothing is good by deeper checking. The Airsal did not open fully the transfers with the supplied base gasket. The exhaust timing was only 175° (just ridiculous). By grinding the exhaust port 1mm for longer opening time and cutting 2mm the piston back for longer admission time. I have now, 185° exhaust time, 175° intake time. This timing is for high rpm and works only excellent beyond 8500 revs up. Listen my dear friend, you did a too small piston ring gap. A too small gap is the reason of the most seized total failure of the piston. 0,15mm is far too small!!! The rule says that the gap should be 0,089mm for each 10mm piston diameter. Your gap for 70cc should be about 0,3 to 0,35. I have on mine 0,41mm. 70cc is not a joke, more power, more heat, the most common failure is that the piston rings touch by heat dilatation and the engine gets seized. Another question to you: Have you checked first the timing before you started machinig the cylinder? You should first check transfer opening and choose the right base gasket in thickness. From there on, protractor and check. Another thing to blame on Airsal, the supplied gasket where worthless (0,3mm base, 0,6mm head). Now it´s excellent, i have 0,5mm base gasket and a 0,4mm head gasket and so, a 0,8mm squish.
Thanks! For the ring gap I used a general rule of bore diameter *0.004mm. I don't have a 0.18mm feeler gauge so I made sure the 0.15mm fit easily and the 0.20mm fit tight. I think 0.41mm ring gap for this 70cc is too much and will cause excessive blow by. Yes, I checked the timing before I started machining the cylinder. I also have the experience that generally the supplied base gaskets are incorrect. Good to check them too.
@@Tomology Yeah man, they lie to us. All tuning manufacturers. 0,4 is good for my 74cc. Your 70cc need at least 0,3mm. Believe me, don't destroy your engine. Drive aircooled cylinders have big tolerances and a little performance is sacrified due to this generous gaps and tolerances. In the other hand, they are indestructible tough. Mi Airsal pistonring came with 0,25mm. Not acceptable in my hot mediterránea weather. Believe me, 0,3 gap. I screwed my baby Up to 15000 rpm and no overhead issue. Just thing, you will have to open your engine frequently for inspection, quick you will detect any failure before total breakdown. Cool Cranckshaft bearings, they look solit. Puch L17 are not so good, serious worn out above 13000 revs. Cheers mate enjoy your Moped.
Yes it would. All a35 kits do fit on an apn engine. But the transfer ports are different so that needs work. Also the fitment of the intake and exhaust ports might be different. It won't be plug and play.
I believe it does fit. I can fit a35 cylinders on a 4L engine which is basically the same as an Atx engine. You may have to adjust the intake and exhaust fitment.
Really wish you could do another restoration with some step step commentary But I’ll definitely be using these videos to rebuild a 97 targa lx I just picked up
Hele leuke video! in mijn jonge jaren aardig wat tomosjes omgebouwd de meest gruwelijke was een s-25 1 speed met een 65cc airsal hd kop en 15-15 carb dat ding vrat koppelingen en heeft heel het frame, achterbrug en achteras kromgetrokken
Onderzoek en veel opmeten. De transferpoorten zijn vergroot naar spec van de meegeleverde voetpakking en de inlaatpoort is nu de volle rotatie van de krukas open.
Hey kerel, Mooie video, Als je de spoelpoorten groter maakt heb je toch minder carterdruk? dit is gebeurd na 2009 met de standaard blokken en die vallen niet te tunen toch? Kun jij mij helderheid geven?
Dankjewel! Klopt inderdaad, hoe groter je de spoelpoorten maakt, hoe minder snel het mengels de cilinder in gaat en hoe lager de carterdruk wordt. In dit geval ben ik van standaard 50cc naar 70cc gegaan, wat de druk enorm opvoert als de zuiger naar beneden gaat. De spoelpoorten op de Parmakit zijn bijna net zo klein als die van een standaard 50cc. Als je met andere 70cc cilinders (ook voor andere brommers) vergelijkt, zie je dat de spoelpoorten degelijk groter zijn. Op basis van de meegeleverde pakking heb ik de grootte aangepast van de spoelpoorten. Ook heb ik door de gaten in de zuiger te maken ervoor gezorgd dat de inlaat de volledige rotatie open staat zodat er mengsel doorheen kan. Ook de uitlaat heeft er invloed op met hoeveel extra mengsel die kan aanzuigen terwijl de poorten open staan. Hoe het precies zit met de verhoudingen, berekeningen etc. weet ik niet. In dit geval gaat het wel voor meer prestatie zorgen, want deze cilinder is standaard best begrensd om het maar zo te noemen.
Ik meet daar de ring gap op en pas hem aan naar de juiste specificatie. Dit zorgt ervoor dat de uiteindes niet tegen elkaar aan komen tijdens het uitzetten van het metaal en je zo geen warm- of vastloper krijgt.
@@OnnoPols-y8n Er zijn formules voor hoe groot de tussenruimte minimaal moet zijn. Kun je vinden op internet. Ik zou niet zomaar wat eraf halen, maar zorgvuldig meten en vijlen.
i have a Tomos mc80 dirt bike the engine looks really similar to a a35, its needs a rebuild. does anyone know if i can just buy a big bore kit for the a35 engine and put it on. there is not much information on them online either.
Hey man! By comparing pictures of a 74cc puch/tomos cylinder and the mc80 cylinder (both have a bore diameter of 47mm), you can see that the width between the cylinder studs is different. The studs from the mc80 seem a bit wider spaced, so I guess you can't put an a35 cilinder on it. I'm not 100% sure though. Maybe someone can confirm it for you!
@@Tomology thank you for explaining. there is very little information about the Tomos mc80 on the internet (guessing they didn't make too many) so i the more i know the better!
Leuke video! Welke items gebruik jij bij het (de)monteren van de lagers? Heb dit namelijk nog niet eerder gedaan en ben van plan om deze binnenkort evt te vervangen
@@Tomologyik moest dit spruitstuk ook vlakken voordat hij niet meer lekte. Was waarschijnlijk kromgetrokken door het lassen. Maar beter haal je een spruitstuk met een betere flow. Deze zijn een drama. Ik heb in de hoeken kneedbaar staal gedaan om de flow te verbeteren. Dat scheelde wel maar het is niet optimaal. Wel weer heel netjes gemaakt dit blok👍
@@benjamindivjak1950 to get the right ring gap. the metal ring expands when heated and then the ring will create excessive friction if the gap is too small which could cause catastrophic damage. with the right ring clearance the engine will run fine. too big of a gap will cause excessive blow-by of the gasses inside the cylinder.
@@edboer2851 dankje! goed om te weten van het eventuele kromtrekken. ik heb voor deze gekozen, omdat hij dan mooi zijdelings langs de tomos loopt net als het origineel. flow zal inderdaad niet top zijn op deze manier.
@@nickski I get it. I don't know the manufacturer part # of the mvt dd kit, but I do know tomoshop ships to the usa too. The cdi part # I found with google search.
Please don't drill toward your hand. My old boss told me about the person who was drilling a car wheel-well, when the drill went right through...his hand. He went on to mention all the meat caught in the flutes. For decking the block, a piece of glass such as tempered glass from an old scanner makes a nice makeshift surface plate. If you wet the sandpaper, it will stick like magic. A drop of dish-soap makes it slide nice, well nicer, anyway. Also the water keeps the sandpaper clean.
finally somebody let you out of your cage! of course i am kidding! This is my favorite tomos channel! Keep up the good work master!
hahah, thank you. I will!
What a build! Very curious to see future video's about this one!
Nice to see you again, hope the post-op recovery goes well and hope to see more videos in the future!
thank you!
@@Tomologywhats the drain plug called you used
@@thomasloode7711Drain plug with magnet
Very beautiful, keep up the great work brother! Your hard work and dedication is well appreciated and recognized. 👏👏 well done! ❤️
I designed this clutch. It is amazing!
Where can I buy it? I don’t see it for sale anywhere online
dayum dit is genieten. wat een perfectie 😍
ben beniewd hoe hij loopt straks
goed om te horen! ben ook zeer benieuwd.
Haha ja het tegenovergestelde wat jij vaak doet 😂😂
@@tomoscrewnederland8454 lol
I think the pinging may also be 24:07 the loose washer and nut on the crank :P
nice detailing build,im interested how will run at 31/22 gear ratio on next video!
me too!
Ok that is the biggest front sprocket i have ever seen! :D. Lets see how it will sing!
i love that testbench you made for breaking in engines!
sick!! if I was skinnier I would love to have some mopeds
hhaha im 114kg and moped 55kg
Was there ever an update on this>?
Would love to see this running.
Not yet, but there is one coming!
Wat een super video! Als je kijkt naar je oude video’s is het een dag en nacht verschil in kwaliteit, ga zo door!
Dankjewel! Goed om te horen dat je het top vindt :)
the idea with the thickening of the walls is great but saw this a bit too late i needed this for the boost port on my tomos atx that i moded to fit a 75cc kit for minarelli vertical
well, now you know for your next build! ;)
mooi zo'n 3d geprinte houder voor je blok!
Essa pessoa é entendida daquilo que faz, trabalha com conhecimento e precisão e os meus parabéns.
Does this have a two-speed that functions how I think it does? If so this little thing is ingenious!
I can't read your mind, but it is a dual clutch two speed transmission and it is pretty neat ;)
6:23 когда я вижу эпоксидку на металле, да ещё в ДВС, у меня сразу начинается изжога☺
Metal epoxy works amazing for this application!
Looking awesome my friend! Glad to see you back
thank you :)
Awesome to see this, i still have my 2005 tomos LX yellow and black i bought new. They were awesome to have in the nj/ny area
my colibri 14 is 51 years old
Vidim ovdje jako puno truda i vremena i puno dobrih rjesenja. Jedino sto mozda nebi bilo lose da je umjesto tekuceg metala nekome dat da jnavari aluminija. A brate ova flandja od frgazera s 2x90 stupnjeva mi je ko prstom u oko :)
The metal epoxy works well for this application. And yes, the intake is not ideal ;)
Terimakasih sudah berbagi viseo ini
Saya jadi bisa belajar.
Salam sejahtera
I remember having one. Never needed any service for years until i sold it
Stock ones are near indestructible!
Nice video, greetings from Finland! Motip engine paint is my faforite paint for this kind of aplication. Im building Old Puch engine with JPC Autisa 65cc cylinder and had to do same kind of job for engine cases.
Can you make a video going in depth about how to port it ? I’ve been wanting to do it to my bike but not super confident I have the knowledge.
Hi! There are some good in depth videos on TH-cam already done by people with way more knowlegde than I have. I am at the beginning of understanding two strokes as well and you just have to try stuff out, with the help of other peoples knowledge ofcourse. Sometimes it works, sometimes you destroy a cylinder or other parts, which happened to me too. Trust yourself, try it out. Worst thing that could happen is some materialistic damage. You can do it!
@@Tomology yea I’ve been learning more day by day but you guys should make more vids to I love watching them and would love to see the top speed of this engine in a bike!
Good to see you doing another engine mod as always amazing job👌👌
Hey. At 6:49 is it worth shaving the piston at the bottom to match the port? or is it best to leave it as is?
Great videos by the way. Not enough content like this on youtube for Tomos people.
Cheers from Liverpool UK x
I haven't done it, but I've seen tuners do it. Probably it's worth doing it.
Thanks! Love that you enjoy it.
@@Tomology my parmakit cylinder arrived today and i honestly thought i would have enough metarial on the a55/a52 case to open up the transfers without jb weld . I was sadly wrong :( i'm a little scared to use jb weld .. Which type did you use for this ? Did it hold up well and not fall off ? I'm also thinking of just sticking the cylinder on as is but then the potential gains of having the huge transfers matched would be amazing .
@@tttrrriiipppyyy Yes you need to weld or epoxy extra material to the cases. Use original JB Weld. I've used it before on my blue cafe racer and many other people used it without any issues. Good luck with your Parmakit project!
Super built 🤩
Cool, i did the same job in June. 74cc Airsal reworked on a Puch 4v. Allways check the cylinder piston kit like you did. Nothing is good by deeper checking. The Airsal did not open fully the transfers with the supplied base gasket. The exhaust timing was only 175° (just ridiculous). By grinding the exhaust port 1mm for longer opening time and cutting 2mm the piston back for longer admission time. I have now, 185° exhaust time, 175° intake time. This timing is for high rpm and works only excellent beyond 8500 revs up. Listen my dear friend, you did a too small piston ring gap. A too small gap is the reason of the most seized total failure of the piston. 0,15mm is far too small!!! The rule says that the gap should be 0,089mm for each 10mm piston diameter. Your gap for 70cc should be about 0,3 to 0,35. I have on mine 0,41mm. 70cc is not a joke, more power, more heat, the most common failure is that the piston rings touch by heat dilatation and the engine gets seized. Another question to you: Have you checked first the timing before you started machinig the cylinder? You should first check transfer opening and choose the right base gasket in thickness. From there on, protractor and check. Another thing to blame on Airsal, the supplied gasket where worthless (0,3mm base, 0,6mm head). Now it´s excellent, i have 0,5mm base gasket and a 0,4mm head gasket and so, a 0,8mm squish.
Thanks! For the ring gap I used a general rule of bore diameter *0.004mm. I don't have a 0.18mm feeler gauge so I made sure the 0.15mm fit easily and the 0.20mm fit tight. I think 0.41mm ring gap for this 70cc is too much and will cause excessive blow by. Yes, I checked the timing before I started machining the cylinder. I also have the experience that generally the supplied base gaskets are incorrect. Good to check them too.
@@Tomology Yeah man, they lie to us. All tuning manufacturers. 0,4 is good for my 74cc. Your 70cc need at least 0,3mm. Believe me, don't destroy your engine. Drive aircooled cylinders have big tolerances and a little performance is sacrified due to this generous gaps and tolerances. In the other hand, they are indestructible tough. Mi Airsal pistonring came with 0,25mm. Not acceptable in my hot mediterránea weather. Believe me, 0,3 gap. I screwed my baby Up to 15000 rpm and no overhead issue. Just thing, you will have to open your engine frequently for inspection, quick you will detect any failure before total breakdown. Cool Cranckshaft bearings, they look solit. Puch L17 are not so good, serious worn out above 13000 revs. Cheers mate enjoy your Moped.
@@Tomologyi use 0,30-0,40 on 70ccm LC .... your 0,15 will be burn change pls :) nice Video good work
I MISS YOU!!!!❤
Would a kit like this fit on an apn4? I am very interested into upgrading to 70cc but I don't wanna buy something just to find out it doesn't fit
Yes it would. All a35 kits do fit on an apn engine. But the transfer ports are different so that needs work. Also the fitment of the intake and exhaust ports might be different. It won't be plug and play.
How much mass did you use to expand the engine block? (6:18)
I don't know the exact amount in grams. I made sure it's a few mm thicker around the ports and base.
Work of art, well done
thank you! :)
tomos motor moje mladosti
Thanks so much for your video. You are the best ❤️
thank you! really appreciate it.
When fitting piston rings you only need to file and deburr one side of the piston ring.
Does this KIT fits on ATX engine?
In Slovenia and Croatia, we do not have, possibility to by any KITs!
I believe it does fit. I can fit a35 cylinders on a 4L engine which is basically the same as an Atx engine. You may have to adjust the intake and exhaust fitment.
I know that.
In the 90. we had possibility to tune our Tomos, wiht parts from Italy. Golden times.
From whitsh country are you from?
And happy 2024!
@@harijurada6058 You too! I'm from the Netherlands
how much did everything cost
I think it was about €1300
Really wish you could do another restoration with some step step commentary
But I’ll definitely be using these videos to rebuild a 97 targa lx I just picked up
Hope it helps you out! I am not planning on doing step by step commentary videos.
This modification make your bike like jet fighter
Just subscribed man that thing sounds serious
thanks!
This makes me happy , clean build 👌👌
Thanks! Your comment makes me happy too :)
Im watching this working on 3 tomos at the same time cool video i fix and sell hit me up they are 1999 targa,tagralx pedal & none pedal.
frcomoto clutch best clutch ever , one series is have a thick lining i get this too , but next series are perfect
Saya sangat menikmati cara pekerjaan anda..👍👍👍👍👍😚😚
Excellent video
Wat voor sproeier zit er in?
Voor de test stationair 50 en hoofdsproeier 105. Het zal met afstellen nog wel veranderen.
good job man👍🏻, what dremels do you use?
thanks! I use non ferro burr bits
Can i install a 70cc kit on my Tomos Automatic A3L with a stock 50cc head?
Not a great idea. You should buy a proper head
Nicely done Mr 😎
Whats the fuel/oil mixing ratio on this 2 stroke motor?
1:50
@@Tomology😂 imagine that
After a long time again . . . 👏👏👏
How fast dose it go
God video very Lerning detail video.
Which exhaust can i drove on this cylinder?
You can install different exhausts which are made for 70cc kits
Exelente maestro muchas gracias.
Thank you!
Where did you bought the clutch assembly?
All parts used in the video are from Tomoshop!
I'm sure this thing would smoke my 650cc all day long xD
I don't know about that ;)
Hele leuke video!
in mijn jonge jaren aardig wat tomosjes omgebouwd
de meest gruwelijke was een s-25 1 speed met een 65cc airsal hd kop en 15-15 carb
dat ding vrat koppelingen en heeft heel het frame, achterbrug en achteras kromgetrokken
met een airsal 65 en 15mm? zat je frame al vol scheuren ofzo 😂
@@Niels-booij nee, ik kan snel materiaal bouwen en ook weer slopen 😂
imagine somebody balancing the crankschaft on one of these once
hope they do it from factory🤞
Jörg Meinke kann kein Englisch nur Deutsch habe es vergessen zu sagen.
Ah okay jörg 😂😂
You a fit body parts, do you fit motorized bicycle carburetor?
it's a 19mm dellorto phbg carb
how much for the engine if i can buy it from you
No
Unfortunately, it's not for sale
Ik heb een vraagje heb zelf nu een parmakit 70cc maar hoe wist jij wat je moest bewerken met de dremel
Onderzoek en veel opmeten. De transferpoorten zijn vergroot naar spec van de meegeleverde voetpakking en de inlaatpoort is nu de volle rotatie van de krukas open.
Hey kerel, Mooie video,
Als je de spoelpoorten groter maakt heb je toch minder carterdruk? dit is gebeurd na 2009 met de standaard blokken en die vallen niet te tunen toch?
Kun jij mij helderheid geven?
Dankjewel! Klopt inderdaad, hoe groter je de spoelpoorten maakt, hoe minder snel het mengels de cilinder in gaat en hoe lager de carterdruk wordt. In dit geval ben ik van standaard 50cc naar 70cc gegaan, wat de druk enorm opvoert als de zuiger naar beneden gaat. De spoelpoorten op de Parmakit zijn bijna net zo klein als die van een standaard 50cc. Als je met andere 70cc cilinders (ook voor andere brommers) vergelijkt, zie je dat de spoelpoorten degelijk groter zijn. Op basis van de meegeleverde pakking heb ik de grootte aangepast van de spoelpoorten. Ook heb ik door de gaten in de zuiger te maken ervoor gezorgd dat de inlaat de volledige rotatie open staat zodat er mengsel doorheen kan. Ook de uitlaat heeft er invloed op met hoeveel extra mengsel die kan aanzuigen terwijl de poorten open staan. Hoe het precies zit met de verhoudingen, berekeningen etc. weet ik niet. In dit geval gaat het wel voor meer prestatie zorgen, want deze cilinder is standaard best begrensd om het maar zo te noemen.
wat is dat grijze spul wat je gebruikt voor bij het blok en de ontstekingkap
Dat is jb weld metaalepoxy
kan je dat oom bij tomosshop halen
@@Tomology
6:20 is gewoon twee componentenlijm voor metaal toch?
Ja. JB weld gebruik ik
@@Tomology Top! Dankjewel.
A question, why did you choose a parmakit cylinder, aren't they notoriously bad?
They do not have the best reputation indeed... Really wanted to see for myself, learn why and see how it performs with some adjustments.
@@Tomology Nice, how was it?
@@nixcc1628 I haven't been able to test it yet.
I need help with my moped
What's the issue?
@@Tomology My dad commented This💀Idk what he needs
Wat zijn de afmetingen op welke plek je dat gat in de zuiger maakte
Precieze afmetingen weet ik niet. Het is vanuit de cilinder overgetrokken en op grootte gemaakt zodat de inlaat 360 graden open is.
Clean work 🏆👍🏼
thank you!
Jelmer beunhaas mooi project man
Great video. What’s the cost of parts for this build please.
Visit Tomoshop.nl via the part links in the description and you will have a rough estimate.
What is a name of cold spray
Freeze(r) spray
What epoxy did you use to add material to the case?
JB Weld
heb je tutorial voor 65cc airsal?
Yes, th-cam.com/video/KiDnZTkItBA/w-d-xo.html
so cool
SMETI !
beautiful
good job
thank you :)
Waneer komt de volgende video kan niet wachten
goed om te horen! helaas kan ik nog lastig zeggen wanneer, omdat ik nog herstellende ben van een operatie.
Wat voor afplaktape wordt er eigenlijk in de video gebruikt?
Die oranje schilderstape is bij de Action verkrijgbaar! Ik vind het zelf een fijne tape.
@@TomologyThx!!
Wat doe je met de pistonringen op 11:40?
Ik meet daar de ring gap op en pas hem aan naar de juiste specificatie. Dit zorgt ervoor dat de uiteindes niet tegen elkaar aan komen tijdens het uitzetten van het metaal en je zo geen warm- of vastloper krijgt.
@@Tomology ahhh en hoe wist je welke maat je nodig had of doe je gewoon n beetje eraf
@@OnnoPols-y8n Er zijn formules voor hoe groot de tussenruimte minimaal moet zijn. Kun je vinden op internet. Ik zou niet zomaar wat eraf halen, maar zorgvuldig meten en vijlen.
zet er een polini big valve kit op groot verschill in vermogen
klinkt als een idee!
@@Tomology werkt er goed heb hem zelf ook op een zeer snelle setup en loopt aardig rap
😮 excelente!!
i have a Tomos mc80 dirt bike the engine looks really similar to a a35, its needs a rebuild. does anyone know if i can just buy a big bore kit for the a35 engine and put it on. there is not much information on them online either.
Hey man! By comparing pictures of a 74cc puch/tomos cylinder and the mc80 cylinder (both have a bore diameter of 47mm), you can see that the width between the cylinder studs is different. The studs from the mc80 seem a bit wider spaced, so I guess you can't put an a35 cilinder on it. I'm not 100% sure though. Maybe someone can confirm it for you!
@@Tomology thank you for explaining. there is very little information about the Tomos mc80 on the internet (guessing they didn't make too many) so i the more i know the better!
Welke epoxy gebruik jij
jb weld
Super filmpje weer, welke dremel frees set gebruik je? ga zo door!
thanks! ik gebruik relatief goedkope non ferro metaal freesjes
Welke dremel gebruikt u
Een dremel 3000
Where do you get your parts?
tomoshop.nl!
Leuke video! Welke items gebruik jij bij het (de)monteren van de lagers? Heb dit namelijk nog niet eerder gedaan en ben van plan om deze binnenkort evt te vervangen
een heatgun en freezespray voor het monteren en een binnenlagertrekker voor het demonteren
That built is so fuking nice !❤
thanks!
24:40 Your engine is running dangerously lean. Put bigger nozzles to the carb. And thanks for the video, nice work dude!
thanks! it was the first start. jetting might be off and maybe there's a leak somewhere. have to test it soon when I have the frame done!
@@Tomologyand why did you sanded a little bit between piston rings??
@@Tomologyik moest dit spruitstuk ook vlakken voordat hij niet meer lekte.
Was waarschijnlijk kromgetrokken door het lassen.
Maar beter haal je een spruitstuk met een betere flow.
Deze zijn een drama.
Ik heb in de hoeken kneedbaar staal gedaan om de flow te verbeteren.
Dat scheelde wel maar het is niet optimaal.
Wel weer heel netjes gemaakt dit blok👍
@@benjamindivjak1950 to get the right ring gap. the metal ring expands when heated and then the ring will create excessive friction if the gap is too small which could cause catastrophic damage. with the right ring clearance the engine will run fine. too big of a gap will cause excessive blow-by of the gasses inside the cylinder.
@@edboer2851 dankje! goed om te weten van het eventuele kromtrekken. ik heb voor deze gekozen, omdat hij dan mooi zijdelings langs de tomos loopt net als het origineel. flow zal inderdaad niet top zijn op deze manier.
Do you have the part # from mvt for that cdi?
MVT-RJ34-61
@@Tomology Thanks!
@@nickski check the link in the description!
@@Tomology I saw that but I am trying to find it here in the states. The part # on tomoshop doesn't match anything I can find
@@nickski I get it. I don't know the manufacturer part # of the mvt dd kit, but I do know tomoshop ships to the usa too. The cdi part # I found with google search.
Everything is very nice except from the driving toothwheel of the final transmition. I don't like to destroying the cases of the motor
Thanks. The cases are not destroyed though. They are modified to fit the part.
@@Tomology 😅😅😅😅😅😂
Wich color is going on the tomos
bright orange a bit like the mvt ignition
@@Tomology nicee
😍
Nice :D
Waarom een 31 tandwiel voor
Vooral nieuwsgierigheid hoe snel het loopt en wat de acceleratie is.
@@Tomology o oké snap het
En deed die het goed
у нас такие изредка попадаются а с ручными коробками не найти
Please don't drill toward your hand. My old boss told me about the person who was drilling a car wheel-well, when the drill went right through...his hand. He went on to mention all the meat caught in the flutes.
For decking the block, a piece of glass such as tempered glass from an old scanner makes a nice makeshift surface plate. If you wet the sandpaper, it will stick like magic. A drop of dish-soap makes it slide nice, well nicer, anyway. Also the water keeps the sandpaper clean.