Excellent content and I really appreciate your meticulous attention to detail. One key thing that you bring to your content that 99% of others don't: communicating all the detailed thought that you put into your process. Great job. That said, I'd be very curious for you to take a look at a Tikka action and see how much work it needs to be cleaned up vs. a Howa or Remington. I've worked with all three myself and would be interested to see how it would compare for you price/performance/effort of setup/clean up.
In the process of getting a 300prc built on a Remington 700 action. Just curious with your reloads if your able to easily reach the rifling with the 212eldx and 225eldm and still fit and function in the factory mag length of 3.70" ??
just shows you how badly new rifles are made by all manufactures no matter the brand, by a new weapon system and then get it blueprinted all moving parts and including the barrel bedded to the stock, etc? only that way you will have a straight shooter?👍👍👌👌✌✌🦘🦘
What I did and worked really well was running a left hand cutter up-side down, the lathe running clockwise, withdrawing the tool, worked well for me, I did just end up making a thread relief inside the action but didn’t seem to effect anything accuracy wise.
Yea, I wouldn't call it "Budget" but that's not meant to take away from Gavin's excellent machining and video on this. I think Gavin's work was truly custom.
Agreed. By the time you buy the tools that he uses to true the action, and the time spent doing so, not counting having the lathe etc.., go and no go gauges, you could just as easily buy a precision action from a reputable manufacturer.
Gavin, You make us/me proud with you genuine excitement and true heart felt joy of doing this 1st class rifle. I am a 63 year old "Maj. 3rd Marine Recon Scout Sniper" (RET) using 300 Win Mag hand built at Quantico. Your joy, enthusiasm, and understanding is why I chose you to give the "Secret" of a 300 Win Mag. There are dozens of expert( hahaha) videos that talk crap about the Remington 300 Win Mag. Earlier you figured it out that "harmonics", and inferior ammunition's make for bad 100 yd groups. Cudos 2U. I am a MSME and I was tasked in 1978 by the the DOD to make the 300 shoot straight at 1500 yds. So do yourself a favor and just make the right bullet first and be amazed at the results. 4" groups at 1000 yds and we shoot milk jugs at a mile for fun. So screw all the cheap powders and use IMR 7828SC alone or my favorite IMR 4831 and IMR 7828 mixed 2 parts 4831 and 1 part 7828. Hornady just invented a magical 30 cal bullet hybrid. Hybrid 30 cal 230 grain with a BC of .823. Stays flat, zero wind deflection, and 2/3 normal elevation on the scope. A normal 300 takes 4 seconds flight time and this magic combo takes 2 1/2 seconds. The military's 300 bullet has had a BC or .480.to.495 so .823 is magic. BUT BUT the 300 Win Mag rifles needs the loading of such a heavy bullet to remove all the harmonics. Gavin, this is a true gift to you so don't waste it. My engineering awards include; Space Shuttle, F-18, Thrust Vectoring, Smart bombs, Drag race Cars, Union Pacific Rail Road I am not some flake. Just load them up and watch the magic Charlie
Sounds like experience talking i never heard of 2 parts 4831 and 1 part 7828 does it make a difference if its short cut 4831? I shoit a remingto pss in 309 win mag pillar bedded jewel trigger tubbs firing pin and spring action trued it shoits good but always room to improve needs new barrel
You very quickly made a believer out of me to get a maticulous gunsmith to do my action blueprinting. In my case, I purchased a Rem. 700 in .300 SAUM and have yet to see a round for it! I ordered 10 boxes from HSM, but that will take nearly a year. Otherwise I want to convert it to .300WSM which I can get ammo for it. So, blueprinting will have to wait till I sort that out. Love you show- I learn so much! Jeff
I would just like to say that your presentation are top notch. I learn volumes from your videos and your information has helped me improve as a reloader and shooter. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us!👍💪🏼
Rumblestrip.NET this is what I want to see too. I’m starting to believe there is more voodoo in “blueprinting” a factory action than truth. I understand that metrics show deviation on some of these faces, but does it actually make any real difference in the performance of the action as it translates to accurate shot placement?
racer4ever33 the only thing that will really make a difference is the match barrel. Unless the dimensions were extremely screwed up, which were not, you’ll see real improvement just on a trued action.
@@racer4ever33 The rear bolt lug to front of the receiver lockup is critical. Also truing the front of the receiver gets your barrel pointed in the same line as the receiver. I purchased a Rem 7 receiver from Brownell's that only one bolt lug contacted the receiver. That Will hurt your accuracy.
You are a True Craftsman...I love to watch someone work that is top notch ..be it a Rope Horse Trainer or a Gunsmith and Machinist. I enjoyed this video
Great videos! My grandfather was the same way, i was able to get one of his toolboxes and seems like whenever i need something it is in there. Wish i could have learned more from him, before he passed.
I really like your videos. I have a Remington 700 7mm Winchester mag that I am disappointed in. I brought it new but got sick did not get to shoot it for 2 years. The very first time I put a shell in it the ejector was broken would not eject the shell. I have fixed that for now. My plans are to re-barrel and put a new type of extractor in a new bolt and blue print the receiver. Put a new stock on. About the same thing maybe a little more or and little less than you done to this rifle. I don’t have any way to go to his class but have done a lot of studying on doing it and been machining for little more than 35 years. So when I get time to start it and after I get finish with it I will share how it went.
Really enjoyed the bolt truing I have a few custom rifles. One has a trued action. It shoots really well. The other shoot good. But I wish they were all trued. Thanks for the videos. There all great. Everyone needs a shop like yours if they’re into rifles
Wow Really nice! Impressive the technique and learning you got with Gordie! Nice Job Gavin! I need to save a whole lot of nickels up to have you build my 300 PRC I can see. Really nice how your explained it all to us , Thanks
When dialing in your action build a fixture that your only dialing on the front ring. You’d be surprised at how much deflation you get with that fixture. I’d be glad to send you a picture of mine.
Good video. My goal is to take all of Gordy's classes together. Very interested in his AR 15 accurizing class also which I believe is included in the course. His classes are very reasonably priced in my opinion.👍👍
Just put a good barrel on that action and it will shoot. I have serious doubts that truing an action contributes that much to accuracy. It’s all in the barrel my friend.
YIKES hours on internal threads... I gave up on that prospect some time ago...I use the PTG receiver threading mandrel. Runs on the same bushings as the truing mandrel you have and does a good and effective job of fixing Remington's sloppy threads
@@Ultimatereloader I figured that to be the case. As you alluded to there is no easy way to do it. Hence the use of the action threading mandrel to clean up and align the threads. Also I understand Wyatt's makes a different mag box for the 300 PRC as feeding issues have occurred using the RUM box.
@@andy347495 Have you ever used a threading mandrel of the type I'm describing? It follows the center line of the bolt because it rides on bushings press fit in the same manner of the action truing mandrel used in his video.. and the die corrects the misalignment to the bolt body... it doesn't just follow the threads. You can see after use where it has cut on one side or the other to correct concentricity. Furthermore what matters more than the threads in the receiver is that the face of the receiver is square, the shoulder on the barrel tenon is square, and the threads single point cut on the barrel tenon are square relative to the bore. Thread contact within the receiver need only be 70% to achieve full strength and a proper lock up between the receiver and the barrel.
@@andy347495 I 100% disagree... Lets break it down. You state you have "checked them on your lathe" What was the concentric run out when using a mandrel? I have seen Remington be as much as 0.010" of total run out before truing. Chasing the threads with a single point cutter is not going to clean that mess up without creating a thread that is shallow on one side and overly deep on the other and larger in diameter than the original thread. In fact to try and correct this would induce more slop in the barrel tenon / receiver threads. Using the mandrel that is parallel with the bolt body bore and removing the high spots/ rough/ or uneven pitch surfaces does what is necessary to ensure that NO undue stress other than the force applied to the thread faces during barrel lockup is applied. Your second comment "Your receiver face is going to dictate how far the barrel moves/alignes by the amount the threads allow the barrel to move." This is why when the threads are cut on the barrel tenon THEY ARE ALIGNED TO THE BORE OF THE BARREL and the shoulders of both the receiver and the barrel tenon or cut square. when the barrel is installed and torqued, the force on the threads cares not if there is .002" run out in the threads of the receiver. This is because when a force on the faces of the threads is like 2 triangles one upside down in respect to the other being forced against each other. As this happens equally on ALL sides of barrel and receiver the two align based on the parallel surfaces of the faces of the receiver and barrel shoulder. There is no transverse stress produced in this process as barrel threads are often cut a few thousands under the OD if the internal threads in the receiver to prevent bottoming the peaks of the barrel threads inside the receiver and inducing stress.
@@andy347495 USing a mandrel in this method DOES true the ID and thread surfaces to the bolt body bore. It may not remove all run out but that is not the point. I have built a dozen or more rifles using the mandrel and trued ans squared cut barrel threads. Not a one of them has shown signs of issues due to stress or misalignment with the axis of the bore or bolt body. Furthermore on a precison machined receiver touching the threads is a mute point as the are already axially trued. I venture that the machine hours spent attempting to single point cut the internal threads and trying to get a stock Remington 700 receiver to the level of a precision action MORE than offsets the cost of purchasing say a Stiller or Defiance action. This is the whole reason PTG and others have created the mandrels and piloted receiver facing tools...its not cost effective for a gunsmith to do it in this manner and it doesn't produce an appreciable improvement in precision.
You should check out Straight Shot Gunsmithing's True Bore Alignment system. He built me a rifle and seeing how quickly he dials the action and barrel in so there is no runout is amazing.
Love the builds and have my degree in machining, unfortunately cant due to health but would love to have a shop like yours and the $ to do those builds etc... Look amazing.
I gravitate to this channel mainly because of the content but no annoying commercials makes it just that much better why so few commercials ,,, I would watch it anyway even if it had annoying commercials
Sir, Dave Mason has a kit for guys that want to accurize their recievers but without a lathe. Have you used his kit and then tested it by comparing the lathe techniques? I purchased the trying kit, bolt face truing kit and lapped the lugs with lapping compound and had great results with remage barrels.
It's OK but a 7-33 nosler with 190 grn A-tip BC .838 @3,200 fps has 1,000fpe at 1mile and beats the best 338 lapua and 300 Rum loads in drop and windrift has a longer case throat than a 28 nosler with no powder compression and the longer throat has longer barrel life because of the torch angle is not burning the barrels throat! And fits in a 3.760id full length long action detachable magazine with VLD BULLETS ONLY SEATED IN THE CASE NECK! Huge ADVANTAGES!
...when truing the threads...run the lathe in reverse...the tool on the back side... ...you can see the tool alignment better...and the tool runs from left to right and out of the hole instead of in...
The bolt being true does matter. When you bush the firing pin hole (you do that, don’t you?) and when you turn the outside of the bolt nose so that is actually round, concentric and bd so on. There are other considerations too. If you have uneven threads in the receiver you’ve cut corners. There’s a reason a tried receiver has overdose threads. You thread the barrel to match and have equal support of the barrel.
I don't agree with lapping the bolt to action with the loads from the firing pin spring in place. That is not the loads at play when detonation occurs.
When you cut the hole in the jig for the bolt handle, do you think that would throw off the weight of the center of the jig while spinning on its own? Should you cut 4 holes all the way around so the centrifugal forces don’t pull it to one side?
Gavin, I still do not know if you need a magnum action for 300 PRC or a long action, a 300 Win Mag case is 2.62" a 300 PRC is 2.58", 300 Win Mag OAL 3.34", 300 PRC 3.56+", 300 Wby Mag OAL 3.60" so my guess is it needs a mag action, How about chambering a Mag Action in 300 Win Mag to seat heavy 225 Gns bullets further out with a extended throat for it? Manufacturers do not specify the action lengh in the same model, Bergara, Howa, Etc in 300 PRC
Any particular reason why you decided to change the caliber to a cartridge you had already built a rifle in? The RUM looked very accurate out of the box, with crap...err...factory ammo. You had 16 lbs of powder, all you needed was some monster bullets from 210 to 250 grains, do some hand loading, and that thing would've been a long range tack driver that the PRC would not have touched. (Opinion)😎🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Just out of curiosity, have you put any thought in to possibly making a form 1 can? Considering you have a nice lathe and mill set up it may be a cool project to take on... would be nice to see your approach on it.
Maybe this has been asked, but why cut threads in this matter rather than use a tap of the appropriate size. Are there any benefits to using your method vs a tap, I just hate setting that set up, having used it on a share of dies and shot sleeves.
wonder if you can answer... remember when you did this either this build or the high end build you went with a barrel with a 1 in 9" twist. can you share... what bullets you pushing down the barrel at what fps, and accurate in the 1 in 9" twist?
I have my fathers 700 bdl 3006 I have always wanted to true that reciever and get a new 3006 bbl set in it. But no one in my area seema to do the blueprinting on actions. Sucks but good to see this vid out thanks
Love your videos Gavin. In your findings. How accurate are actions from manufacturers like terminus or bat.....do they need tuning up?.....which is a better quality action Bat or terminus?
Gavin i have a 300 rum sendero and had thought about rebarreling it to 300 prc but i have one question will the 300 rum bolt face work with the 300 prc or is there machining that has to be done
I have recently purchased a ruger 300 prc. Well now i cant find ammo for it, so is there a way to change the caliber by swapping the barrel? any advice would be great.
I have 4 Remington 700's ,a 7mm rem. mag.; from the early 60's a .243 win. mag.; a .338 win. mag. both from the early 2000 era. and a .223 rem from 2010ish. era. The 7mm shoots 5 shot groups that touch consistently. no work has ever been performed on this gun except I adjusted the trigger to 1.5 pounds. The .243 and the .338 both shoot about one half moa. with no work done ton the guns at all. All the above guns have never had a factory round fired through them. I have handed loaded all rounds in varying different loads and weights. I'm happy. The .223 is a different story. It shoots ok, but the bolt is not smooth as I would like, the trigger is like 5.5 pounds and it is one of the "J" models. I've only fired factory loaded ammo in it. I would Like to get to shoot as well as the 7mm. Can you recommend a solution ? John
Isn't loading the bolt face from the front better than lapping via the bolt handle from the rear? This has always been the way it has been explained to me. This is also how I have always done it. Using the bolt handle to load the lugs imparts rearward and alot of axial torque over a longer run vs loading on the bolt face.
I respectfully disagree with the premise that this is a budget build, because it requires $880 of tooling to true the action of a $650 rifle. As well as adding another $640 for trigger and barrel. This is a well thought out tutorial on trueing and perfecting a Remington 700, cost be damned. As always, totally impressed by the execution of this and all projects. Bravo!
hold on hold on.... if the trigger pivots the bolt, so u need to lap the lugs intsed of cuting them. what will this trigger pivoting do to the boltface, which is true to the bolt body? According to this logic, the bolt face should be trued when the bolt is locked in the reciver to get the boltface normal to the reciver threads and hence the chamber....
Question, since the rear of the bolt in usage is tilted up slightly should that not have been taken into account when you faced off the bolt face? As of now, the top of the bolt face is closer to the cartridge than the bottom when the trigger is installed. Also, concentricity is never termed as plus or minus, it’s always TIR total indicator reading.
I’m about to start my own build and was hoping for a little insight. What is your process for setting up and cutting the internal receiver threads now that you have done a few? Thanks for any help!
One thing that I didn't quite understand. When you cut the threads on the barrel, how do you measure for proper fit on the OD of the barrel thread/ID of receiver thread? Or I may have misunderstood but I thought that you never touched the front and back of each receiver thread at the same time. Wouldn't that make the receiver threads shallower than standard? I hope this made sense. Thanks for a really great vid series!
i found a rem model of 1917 that was priced like a defaced military rifle. and from 15feet away it did look like a run of the mill sporterized mil surp. it was priced at 199$ the receiver had its ears milled off and was reshaped to make mounting optics simple. it is also drilled for a peep sight with screws plunging the old holes. nothing on this rifle is original! its got a heavy 26 inch barrel and the action had ben worked over and i had scored a action up custom hunting rifle for pretty much nothing! how much would it cost today to do that same job? a fortune it would cost a fortune! it puts 180grn loads into one lil ragged hole at 100yrds! witch aint bad for an action made in 1918.. the trigger is fantastic its like a single set trigger it has a verry light take up on the slack stage then it stops and wen you hit the stop a light touch sets it off. it aids in accuracy at longer ranges for sure!
You should use a thread gauge to be able to read runout of threads. I could take a die grinder and gouge the treads and totally screw up the minor diameter but the pitch diameter would not be effected. you are only assuming the thread pitch diameter is concentric to the minor diameter.
Actually I did this the way Gordy Gritters does- with a 0.0001" indicator on the middle of the critical side of the thread, with the halfnuts engaged and carriage run in towards the receiver. VERY accurate way to determine runout- it's very important to read the correct side of the thread as noted in the video. (the side under compression when barrel tightened to action, not the clearance side).
@@Ultimatereloader That only assumes your lead screw has less than .001" pitch error per foot. Lead screws on engine lathes have .003" per foot of lead error or about .0002" per inch Hench the suggestion for the thread gauge it eliminates the machine error.
Since you said the bolt is angled slightly by the influence of the trigger and the looseness in the bore wouldn’t the bolt face now be out of square once you’ve lapped the lugs in the crooked position? Maybe the amount is negligible and after all much worse rifles have shot better groups but that does not seem like the proper way to go about it if you are really measuring to tenths. Also if you went through the trouble to recut the threads the only thing that would do is influence radially where the barrel (angular alignment is set by the squareness of the receiver face and parallelism of the recoil lug) sits so shouldn’t you now measure the concentricity of the bolt face in relation? Otherwise that seems like something for nothing. Lastly if you would indulge my curiosity could you reset up the action with your indicating rod in the action and remeasure. I am just curious to see if there is any repeatability in your measurements if so it makes me think it is an accurate way of doing things. Thank you for the great video and I hope to not come off as someone trying to troll you.
I knew a gunsmith just east of Seattle who specialized in turning US 1917s into 375 H&H hunting rigs. He liked them for the job because the barrel tenon is larger diameter than modern actions, therefore stronger.
P C they are definitely tanks, but all that extra mass also makes for a very rigid receiver. That’s why I chose to do mine in 300wm but I might be changing it to 6.5,300 Weatherby mag soon. As is it’s sub .5. It’s amazing what u can get from a 100+ year old mil surp.
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Would like to see an off the shelf rifle tuned up using all of these techniques with factory parts. Compare your 1000 yard groups before and after.
It scares me that I find this facinating. There is no end to this road we are on.
Excellent content and I really appreciate your meticulous attention to detail. One key thing that you bring to your content that 99% of others don't: communicating all the detailed thought that you put into your process. Great job. That said, I'd be very curious for you to take a look at a Tikka action and see how much work it needs to be cleaned up vs. a Howa or Remington. I've worked with all three myself and would be interested to see how it would compare for you price/performance/effort of setup/clean up.
Me too!
In the process of getting a 300prc built on a Remington 700 action. Just curious with your reloads if your able to easily reach the rifling with the 212eldx and 225eldm and still fit and function in the factory mag length of 3.70" ??
@@broch84shorthair49 factory Remington throats are terrible. You'll be way off the lands if you're loading to mag length. Like 0.130" off.
just shows you how badly new rifles are made by all manufactures no matter the brand, by a new weapon system and then get it blueprinted all moving parts and including the barrel bedded to the stock, etc? only that way you will have a straight shooter?👍👍👌👌✌✌🦘🦘
It would have been fun to put it back together in the factory configuration after blue printing and see if it actually made a difference.
with a bolt face that whacked, Im sure it did.
What I did and worked really well was running a left hand cutter up-side down, the lathe running clockwise, withdrawing the tool, worked well for me, I did just end up making a thread relief inside the action but didn’t seem to effect anything accuracy wise.
The Joe Pieczynski method! Follow Joe Pie what a machinist!
Man I cant wait for Part 2! Also cant wait for my 300PRC 🎯
Did you get your 300 PRC up and running?
Yea, I wouldn't call it "Budget" but that's not meant to take away from Gavin's excellent machining and video on this. I think Gavin's work was truly custom.
Agreed. By the time you buy the tools that he uses to true the action, and the time spent doing so, not counting having the lathe etc.., go and no go gauges, you could just as easily buy a precision action from a reputable manufacturer.
Gavin, You make us/me proud with you genuine excitement and true heart felt joy of doing this 1st class rifle. I am a 63 year old "Maj. 3rd Marine Recon Scout Sniper" (RET) using 300 Win Mag hand built at Quantico. Your joy, enthusiasm, and understanding is why I chose you to give the "Secret" of a 300 Win Mag. There are dozens of expert( hahaha) videos that talk crap about the Remington 300 Win Mag. Earlier you figured it out that "harmonics", and inferior ammunition's make for bad 100 yd groups. Cudos 2U. I am a MSME and I was tasked in 1978 by the the DOD to make the 300 shoot straight at 1500 yds. So do yourself a favor and just make the right bullet first and be amazed at the results. 4" groups at 1000 yds and we shoot milk jugs at a mile for fun. So screw all the cheap powders and use IMR 7828SC alone or my favorite IMR 4831 and IMR 7828 mixed 2 parts 4831 and 1 part 7828. Hornady just invented a magical 30 cal bullet hybrid. Hybrid 30 cal 230 grain with a BC of .823. Stays flat, zero wind deflection, and 2/3 normal elevation on the scope. A normal 300 takes 4 seconds flight time and this magic combo takes 2 1/2 seconds. The military's 300 bullet has had a BC or .480.to.495 so .823 is magic. BUT BUT the 300 Win Mag rifles needs the loading of such a heavy bullet to remove all the harmonics. Gavin, this is a true gift to you so don't waste it. My engineering awards include; Space Shuttle, F-18, Thrust Vectoring, Smart bombs, Drag race Cars, Union Pacific Rail Road
I am not some flake. Just load them up and watch the magic Charlie
Sounds like experience talking i never heard of 2 parts 4831 and 1 part 7828 does it make a difference if its short cut 4831? I shoit a remingto pss in 309 win mag pillar bedded jewel trigger tubbs firing pin and spring action trued it shoits good but always room to improve needs new barrel
You very quickly made a believer out of me to get a maticulous gunsmith to do my action blueprinting. In my case, I purchased a Rem. 700 in .300 SAUM and have yet to see a round for it! I ordered 10 boxes from HSM, but that will take nearly a year. Otherwise I want to convert it to .300WSM which I can get ammo for it. So, blueprinting will have to wait till I sort that out. Love you show- I learn so much! Jeff
I would just like to say that your presentation are top notch. I learn volumes from your videos and your information has helped me improve as a reloader and shooter. Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge with us!👍💪🏼
Awesome job Gavin. First blue printed action done ✅ and done well with meticulous attention to detail as we’ve come to expect from you 👍👍👍.
Put the stock barrel back on and see how much the action job only made with accuracy.
Cant really, he opened up the threads and changed the headspace on all the parts......but it would be cool to know
Rumblestrip.NET this is what I want to see too. I’m starting to believe there is more voodoo in “blueprinting” a factory action than truth. I understand that metrics show deviation on some of these faces, but does it actually make any real difference in the performance of the action as it translates to accurate shot placement?
I can personally say it does make a difference but we're talking benchrest accuracy every millimeter counts
racer4ever33 the only thing that will really make a difference is the match barrel. Unless the dimensions were extremely screwed up, which were not, you’ll see real improvement just on a trued action.
@@racer4ever33 The rear bolt lug to front of the receiver lockup is critical. Also truing the front of the receiver gets your barrel pointed in the same line as the receiver. I purchased a Rem 7 receiver from Brownell's that only one bolt lug contacted the receiver. That Will hurt your accuracy.
Seeing your lathe, I'm reminded I need to clean my chip tray and wipe off the grease.
You are a True Craftsman...I love to watch someone work that is top notch ..be it a Rope Horse Trainer or a Gunsmith and Machinist. I enjoyed this video
Great videos! My grandfather was the same way, i was able to get one of his toolboxes and seems like whenever i need something it is in there. Wish i could have learned more from him, before he passed.
Right on! Anxious to see the finished rifle and how it shoots
Me too :)
Just ordered a magnum bolt for my 3006. Gonna spin a 300prc barrel for getting into ulr competitions while keeping the wuick chamge to 06 for hunting
You and Gordy need to watch Joe pyzinski's utube video on thread chasing.
Very easy and works perfectly.
And thread in reverse as Joe(and I) do
Great video!! I have to find a lathe. Gordy's process is straight forward.
I really like your videos. I have a Remington 700 7mm Winchester mag that I am disappointed in. I brought it new but got sick did not get to shoot it for 2 years. The very first time I put a shell in it the ejector was broken would not eject the shell. I have fixed that for now. My plans are to re-barrel and put a new type of extractor in a new bolt and blue print the receiver. Put a new stock on. About the same thing maybe a little more or and little less than you done to this rifle. I don’t have any way to go to his class but have done a lot of studying on doing it and been machining for little more than 35 years. So when I get time to start it and after I get finish with it I will share how it went.
Such great information and love learning and watching things you do for better rifle performance.
You put in some work sir! Awesome explanation of all processes performed!
GREAT TEACHER. THANK GOODNESS
Really enjoyed the bolt truing I have a few custom rifles. One has a trued action. It shoots really well. The other shoot good. But I wish they were all trued. Thanks for the videos. There all great. Everyone needs a shop like yours if they’re into rifles
Wow Really nice! Impressive the technique and learning you got with Gordie! Nice Job Gavin! I need to save a whole lot of nickels up to have you build my 300 PRC I can see. Really nice how your explained it all to us , Thanks
When dialing in your action build a fixture that your only dialing on the front ring. You’d be surprised at how much deflation you get with that fixture. I’d be glad to send you a picture of mine.
@@andy347495 yep would be glad to
I love these vids. Bring on part 2
You need to bush the bolt also for a tight fit. The face of the bolt is out when you close it. No need to face it if you dont bush it.
Man I love your videos! They are so casual and well prepared, thanks!
I was researching a 300 prc build when I got the notification. Keep up the good work I'm excited to see the final product.
Good video. My goal is to take all of Gordy's classes together. Very interested in his AR 15 accurizing class also which I believe is included in the course. His classes are very reasonably priced in my opinion.👍👍
Great video as usual, Gavin! Keep it up!
Wow that’s a lot of knowledge my friend bravo and thank you for sharing this awesome video
Brilliant. Extremely well presented and informative. Thank you
Great job mate very intrigued lots of good info in this one. Would love to see you do an ackley improved rechamber next
280 AI, please!
Just put a good barrel on that action and it will shoot. I have serious doubts that truing an action contributes that much to accuracy. It’s all in the barrel my friend.
YIKES hours on internal threads... I gave up on that prospect some time ago...I use the PTG receiver threading mandrel. Runs on the same bushings as the truing mandrel you have and does a good and effective job of fixing Remington's sloppy threads
Most of that time was spent experimenting with different ways to get a close look at the tool in relation to the interior of the threads :)
@@Ultimatereloader I figured that to be the case. As you alluded to there is no easy way to do it. Hence the use of the action threading mandrel to clean up and align the threads. Also I understand Wyatt's makes a different mag box for the 300 PRC as feeding issues have occurred using the RUM box.
@@andy347495 Have you ever used a threading mandrel of the type I'm describing? It follows the center line of the bolt because it rides on bushings press fit in the same manner of the action truing mandrel used in his video.. and the die corrects the misalignment to the bolt body... it doesn't just follow the threads. You can see after use where it has cut on one side or the other to correct concentricity. Furthermore what matters more than the threads in the receiver is that the face of the receiver is square, the shoulder on the barrel tenon is square, and the threads single point cut on the barrel tenon are square relative to the bore. Thread contact within the receiver need only be 70% to achieve full strength and a proper lock up between the receiver and the barrel.
@@andy347495 I 100% disagree... Lets break it down. You state you have "checked them on your lathe" What was the concentric run out when using a mandrel? I have seen Remington be as much as 0.010" of total run out before truing. Chasing the threads with a single point cutter is not going to clean that mess up without creating a thread that is shallow on one side and overly deep on the other and larger in diameter than the original thread. In fact to try and correct this would induce more slop in the barrel tenon / receiver threads. Using the mandrel that is parallel with the bolt body bore and removing the high spots/ rough/ or uneven pitch surfaces does what is necessary to ensure that NO undue stress other than the force applied to the thread faces during barrel lockup is applied. Your second comment "Your receiver face is going to dictate how far the barrel moves/alignes by the amount the threads allow the barrel to move." This is why when the threads are cut on the barrel tenon THEY ARE ALIGNED TO THE BORE OF THE BARREL and the shoulders of both the receiver and the barrel tenon or cut square. when the barrel is installed and torqued, the force on the threads cares not if there is .002" run out in the threads of the receiver. This is because when a force on the faces of the threads is like 2 triangles one upside down in respect to the other being forced against each other. As this happens equally on ALL sides of barrel and receiver the two align based on the parallel surfaces of the faces of the receiver and barrel shoulder. There is no transverse stress produced in this process as barrel threads are often cut a few thousands under the OD if the internal threads in the receiver to prevent bottoming the peaks of the barrel threads inside the receiver and inducing stress.
@@andy347495 USing a mandrel in this method DOES true the ID and thread surfaces to the bolt body bore. It may not remove all run out but that is not the point. I have built a dozen or more rifles using the mandrel and trued ans squared cut barrel threads. Not a one of them has shown signs of issues due to stress or misalignment with the axis of the bore or bolt body. Furthermore on a precison machined receiver touching the threads is a mute point as the are already axially trued. I venture that the machine hours spent attempting to single point cut the internal threads and trying to get a stock Remington 700 receiver to the level of a precision action MORE than offsets the cost of purchasing say a Stiller or Defiance action. This is the whole reason PTG and others have created the mandrels and piloted receiver facing tools...its not cost effective for a gunsmith to do it in this manner and it doesn't produce an appreciable improvement in precision.
Thank you 😊
Do you have a video on the TRUE effects of Truing an action? It would be cool to see a before /after of the blue printing performance.
Should have installed a m16 extractor. Would have been worth it and a side Bolt stop/release. It is actually easy with the mill.
Not really. He has the mill there. Would only actually take minutes to install. Parts are very cheap.
I am a little slow...lmao.
You should check out Straight Shot Gunsmithing's True Bore Alignment system. He built me a rifle and seeing how quickly he dials the action and barrel in so there is no runout is amazing.
I've already been talking to them!
Nathan is the real deal!
Love the builds and have my degree in machining, unfortunately cant due to health but would love to have a shop like yours and the $ to do those builds etc... Look amazing.
I gravitate to this channel mainly because of the content but no annoying commercials makes it just that much better why so few commercials ,,, I would watch it anyway even if it had annoying commercials
amazing job!
Sir, Dave Mason has a kit for guys that want to accurize their recievers but without a lathe. Have you used his kit and then tested it by comparing the lathe techniques? I purchased the trying kit, bolt face truing kit and lapped the lugs with lapping compound and had great results with remage barrels.
It's OK but a 7-33 nosler with 190 grn A-tip BC .838 @3,200 fps has 1,000fpe at 1mile and beats the best 338 lapua and 300 Rum loads in drop and windrift has a longer case throat than a 28 nosler with no powder compression and the longer throat has longer barrel life because of the torch angle is not burning the barrels throat! And fits in a 3.760id full length long action detachable magazine with VLD BULLETS ONLY SEATED IN THE CASE NECK! Huge ADVANTAGES!
Love the vids, keep them coming, your a great inspiration
Thanks Paul!
gavintoobe PM me I have an idea I’d like to run by you
Sure, you can shoot me an email from here: th-cam.com/users/gavintoobeabout
...when truing the threads...run the lathe in reverse...the tool on the back side...
...you can see the tool alignment better...and the tool runs from left to right and out of the hole instead of in...
I will never do it but enjoyed the video.
Finally!!
Looking forward to the next part..
The bolt being true does matter. When you bush the firing pin hole (you do that, don’t you?) and when you turn the outside of the bolt nose so that is actually round, concentric and bd so on. There are other considerations too.
If you have uneven threads in the receiver you’ve cut corners. There’s a reason a tried receiver has overdose threads. You thread the barrel to match and have equal support of the barrel.
Nice project.!
Awesome. Thank you
I don't agree with lapping the bolt to action with the loads from the firing pin spring in place. That is not the loads at play when detonation occurs.
Awesome stuff
Superb content!
Thanks JP! And thanks for watching.
When you cut the hole in the jig for the bolt handle, do you think that would throw off the weight of the center of the jig while spinning on its own? Should you cut 4 holes all the way around so the centrifugal forces don’t pull it to one side?
Gavin, I still do not know if you need a magnum action for 300 PRC or a long action, a 300 Win Mag case is 2.62" a 300 PRC is 2.58", 300 Win Mag OAL 3.34", 300 PRC 3.56+", 300 Wby Mag OAL 3.60" so my guess is it needs a mag action, How about chambering a Mag Action in 300 Win Mag to seat heavy 225 Gns bullets further out with a extended throat for it? Manufacturers do not specify the action lengh in the same model, Bergara, Howa, Etc in 300 PRC
Very informative content. Just searching for a lathe brother!
well that takes away the 'voodoo' from truing an action. great video!
Thanks, just takes time!
Any particular reason why you decided to change the caliber to a cartridge you had already built a rifle in? The RUM looked very accurate out of the box, with crap...err...factory ammo. You had 16 lbs of powder, all you needed was some monster bullets from 210 to 250 grains, do some hand loading, and that thing would've been a long range tack driver that the PRC would not have touched. (Opinion)😎🇺🇸👍🇺🇸
Great video
Amazing job !
I’m thinking about taking my 7mm Remington magnum down and building a 300 PRC
Good stuff man.
Alright grandpa lol!
Grandpa and I think alike...
Just out of curiosity, have you put any thought in to possibly making a form 1 can? Considering you have a nice lathe and mill set up it may be a cool project to take on... would be nice to see your approach on it.
Maybe this has been asked, but why cut threads in this matter rather than use a tap of the appropriate size. Are there any benefits to using your method vs a tap, I just hate setting that set up, having used it on a share of dies and shot sleeves.
wonder if you can answer...
remember when you did this either this build or the high end build you went with a barrel with a 1 in 9" twist.
can you share... what bullets you pushing down the barrel at what fps, and accurate in the 1 in 9" twist?
Hey Gavin I saw what bushing set you bought from Gre-Tan. What indicator rod did you purchase?
It would be an dream come true if you could rebuild my first Remington 700 with caliber interchangeability 308/6.5 Crdmr
I have my fathers 700 bdl 3006 I have always wanted to true that reciever and get a new 3006 bbl set in it. But no one in my area seema to do the blueprinting on actions. Sucks but good to see this vid out thanks
Love your videos Gavin. In your findings.
How accurate are actions from manufacturers like terminus or bat.....do they need tuning up?.....which is a better quality action Bat or terminus?
Gavin i have a 300 rum sendero and had thought about rebarreling it to 300 prc but i have one question will the 300 rum bolt face work with the 300 prc or is there machining that has to be done
I have recently purchased a ruger 300 prc. Well now i cant find ammo for it, so is there a way to change the caliber by swapping the barrel? any advice would be great.
I need to do the class
Why would you take a 300 rum and make it a 300 prc .....
That's what I wanna know too.
I have 4 Remington 700's ,a 7mm rem. mag.; from the early 60's a .243 win. mag.; a .338 win. mag. both from the early 2000 era. and a .223 rem from 2010ish. era.
The 7mm shoots 5 shot groups that touch consistently. no work has ever been performed on this gun except I adjusted the trigger to 1.5 pounds.
The .243 and the .338 both shoot about one half moa. with no work done ton the guns at all.
All the above guns have never had a factory round fired through them. I have handed loaded all rounds in varying different loads and weights. I'm happy.
The .223 is a different story. It shoots ok, but the bolt is not smooth as I would like, the trigger is like 5.5 pounds and it is one of the "J" models. I've only fired factory loaded ammo in it. I would Like to get to shoot as well as the 7mm.
Can you recommend a solution ?
John
Isn't loading the bolt face from the front better than lapping via the bolt handle from the rear? This has always been the way it has been explained to me. This is also how I have always done it. Using the bolt handle to load the lugs imparts rearward and alot of axial torque over a longer run vs loading on the bolt face.
I respectfully disagree with the premise that this is a budget build, because it requires $880 of tooling to true the action of a $650 rifle. As well as adding another $640 for trigger and barrel. This is a well thought out tutorial on trueing and perfecting a Remington 700, cost be damned. As always, totally impressed by the execution of this and all projects. Bravo!
It's all based on what's meant by "Budget" - I hear that you don't consider this a "Budget" build, and that's fine with me :)
hold on hold on.... if the trigger pivots the bolt, so u need to lap the lugs intsed of cuting them. what will this trigger pivoting do to the boltface, which is true to the bolt body? According to this logic, the bolt face should be trued when the bolt is locked in the reciver to get the boltface normal to the reciver threads and hence the chamber....
btw realy like the vid :)
As good as the PRC is I’d personally rather have the RUM. Which I do. 😁
Question, since the rear of the bolt in usage is tilted up slightly should that not have been taken into account when you faced off the bolt face? As of now, the top of the bolt face is closer to the cartridge than the bottom when the trigger is installed. Also, concentricity is never termed as plus or minus, it’s always TIR total indicator reading.
I’m about to start my own build and was hoping for a little insight. What is your process for setting up and cutting the internal receiver threads now that you have done a few? Thanks for any help!
One thing that I didn't quite understand. When you cut the threads on the barrel, how do you measure for proper fit on the OD of the barrel thread/ID of receiver thread? Or I may have misunderstood but I thought that you never touched the front and back of each receiver thread at the same time. Wouldn't that make the receiver threads shallower than standard? I hope this made sense. Thanks for a really great vid series!
i found a rem model of 1917 that was priced like a defaced military rifle. and from 15feet away it did look like a run of the mill sporterized mil surp. it was priced at 199$ the receiver had its ears milled off and was reshaped to make mounting optics simple. it is also drilled for a peep sight with screws plunging the old holes. nothing on this rifle is original! its got a heavy 26 inch barrel and the action had ben worked over and i had scored a action up custom hunting rifle for pretty much nothing! how much would it cost today to do that same job? a fortune it would cost a fortune! it puts 180grn loads into one lil ragged hole at 100yrds! witch aint bad for an action made in 1918.. the trigger is fantastic its like a single set trigger it has a verry light take up on the slack stage then it stops and wen you hit the stop a light touch sets it off. it aids in accuracy at longer ranges for sure!
I need a recommendation for a rem 700 patterned 300 PRC barreled action.. hoping to find something near $1000.
You should use a thread gauge to be able to read runout of threads. I could take a die grinder and gouge the treads and totally screw up the minor diameter but the pitch diameter would not be effected. you are only assuming the thread pitch diameter is concentric to the minor diameter.
Actually I did this the way Gordy Gritters does- with a 0.0001" indicator on the middle of the critical side of the thread, with the halfnuts engaged and carriage run in towards the receiver. VERY accurate way to determine runout- it's very important to read the correct side of the thread as noted in the video. (the side under compression when barrel tightened to action, not the clearance side).
@@Ultimatereloader That only assumes your lead screw has less than .001" pitch error per foot. Lead screws on engine lathes have .003" per foot of lead error or about .0002" per inch Hench the suggestion for the thread gauge it eliminates the machine error.
Since you said the bolt is angled slightly by the influence of the trigger and the looseness in the bore wouldn’t the bolt face now be out of square once you’ve lapped the lugs in the crooked position? Maybe the amount is negligible and after all much worse rifles have shot better groups but that does not seem like the proper way to go about it if you are really measuring to tenths. Also if you went through the trouble to recut the threads the only thing that would do is influence radially where the barrel (angular alignment is set by the squareness of the receiver face and parallelism of the recoil lug) sits so shouldn’t you now measure the concentricity of the bolt face in relation? Otherwise that seems like something for nothing. Lastly if you would indulge my curiosity could you reset up the action with your indicating rod in the action and remeasure. I am just curious to see if there is any repeatability in your measurements if so it makes me think it is an accurate way of doing things. Thank you for the great video and I hope to not come off as someone trying to troll you.
So I’m looking at getting an R700 action for my 300prc I’m having built. Do i need the Long Ultra Magnum Action or just a Long Magnum Action?
Standard long-action is fine!
Hello sir..I want to order your bolt action pin assembly how much is the cost?
Are you doing any gunsmithing for the public? I'm thinking along the lines of blueprinting a Remington 700 la.
Curious as to why you didn’t sleeve the bolt
this is all very interesting
So when you chased the threads to true them how much did you take off in order to clean them up but not be oversized?
About 0.002"
Question, out of all the info you showed us, and I might add was great info. But why did you not check the timing of the bolt ?
Also bushing the firing pin hole?
What the different with a 90, 70 or even a 60 degree bolt action...
1917 Remington action!! Theirs a great project.
I knew a gunsmith just east of Seattle who specialized in turning US 1917s into 375 H&H hunting rigs. He liked them for the job because the barrel tenon is larger diameter than modern actions, therefore stronger.
P C they are definitely tanks, but all that extra mass also makes for a very rigid receiver. That’s why I chose to do mine in 300wm but I might be changing it to 6.5,300 Weatherby mag soon. As is it’s sub .5. It’s amazing what u can get from a 100+ year old mil surp.