Pin Headers - soldering, cutting, male, female, etc.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ต.ค. 2017
- Working with pin headers: how to solder headers, cutting headers, breakaway headers, both male and female headers are covered.
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Really informative and concise beginners' tutorial.
No distracting music or unnecessary dialogue - very good.
I love how simply explained these videos are. You come off so calm and confident. Keep it up, man! :D
You rock! Great quality content. Appreciate the quick cuts in the editing to make it fast and efficient!
Great job! Your very special brand of informational videos has helped me and many more!
it never occurred to me to use the board to lock the pins while soldering. i love it when people show me how stupid i am.
I wasn't doing it at first either -- my first boards were hard to plug into sockets as a result. But I learned and passed it on. We all start out stupid I guess.
Same here!
lol
I didn’t have breadboard so I used a peice of packing foam u can also use something soft
Thank you for this basic informational video. It's so hard to find information on this stuff when you are new and don't know the proper name for any of it so you can't look it up. This helped a ton
Thanks a lot
Great video... In detail...
I knew nothing about male-female pins... But after watching this, I know everything about them.
Thank you again.
Great effort..
Not what I was looking for but your calm voice and the reasonable video length made me watch til the end anyway.
Lol same
This is great! I appreciate the concise explanations and tight editing.
Love these videos, Thanks for making them.
excellent work sir, btw i had been struggling to find the proper name for a single jumper cable but thanks to your video finally got a hold of these as i really needed them for my board :)
Thanks, that video helped me a lot understanding the connectors and the breadboard.
thank tou sir this was very helpful ti clarify and I appreciate you actually showing how it's done and explaining all the steps
Of course removing a pin in the female headers before cutting makes it much easier. Never thought of that. Great tip.
OMG, just what I wanted, looking to take my electronics from ‘Plug n Play’ kits to actually soldiering thing. Thank you
Proud Patreon supporter. Thank you for always producing such educational content in an efficient manner!
You're welcome! I'm trying to keep that type of content coming. Thanks for you support!
You are a really good teacher
Great video. I think even well educated people can learn many things from this guy.
The way of presenting the informations is AMAZING...clear language ..respect
Glad to hear it. Thanks.
Great video, great wisdom...
Good job Sir 👍👍👍
Loved this Chanel 👍
Thanks for the video!
searched cause need to buy header pins for my teensy, got the info I needed, thanks
1:28 dramatic soldering iron :D
For years, I used all sorts of connectors for my small 12v projects, and it was such a hassle! No more crimping : I just discovered these kind of headers and am using them everywhere! They are light, easy to work with,… I just solder wires to these headers, and cover my joints with heatshrink tubing. Again, no more crimping! :)
I like your idea of covering the joints with heatshrink tubing. That should hold any male-female connections between two wires together. Thanks! I'll use that. And you can always cut away the heatshrink if you need to change it. Do you have any similar suggestion for holding wires that are plugged into headers? By that I mean, with a RaspBerry Pi or Arduino you plug wires into the headers on the board. But if that's a part of a moving robot then the wires might come out. Do you have any ideas for making sure they don't? I guess a dab of hot glue might work.
@@RimstarOrg I have seen hot glue on a couple of boards from commercial products.
Thanks for the helpful video! Keep it up :)
Sir I like all of your videos
Thanks for watching them.
Learned a lot Thank you :)
Brilliant! Thank you
perfect video liked and subscribed
great stuff, thanks!
Thx for an excellent description on how to handle female header pin cutting. Great approach to pull the next pin, cut, and sand. Will try this in the morning.
How did you get a cricket into your multi-meter?
Gracias amigo !
Well explained sir thank you
Thanks a lot sir.
Wonderfull Video!!!!!!!!! Very useful!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
GReat vid. thank you!
Nice video, thanks :)
Super usefull!!
I would strongly recommend you switch over to breadboard/prototype board with Plated Through Holes (PTH). You solder pins and components to the plated holes and don't need to use glue. They are much stronger and better looking without glue. The plated holes make convenient places to solder your circuit wires, and by bridging spans of holes with solder, you can make rudimentary routing right on the board with solder bridges. You will never use non-plated breadboard again. Also make sure you use no-clean solder, or solder that cleans off easily like water washable or alcohol washable solder flux. Rosin core solder makes a mess and can eat your board if not removed, and is really hard to get off without harsh chemicals.
Thanks. I've seen videos where that type of board is used and the ability to make traced directly on it is nice. I'll order some.
Great video thanks
Thanks for the video, one question. Does is matter on which side you solder the pins?
very usefull
Awesome stuff. Really clear and easy to understand. For the male headers, do you recommend soldering the short or the long then of the male header to the underside or upside of the board?
I would solder to the short leads of the male header since the long leads are what you plug things into.
@@RimstarOrg That's what I ended up doing. Thanks. Only downside now is that I can't attach it to breadboard
Sweet Jeebus, I thought my stereo exploded when those laud high pitched screeches started! O_o
Great video! Most tutorials on Arduino boards don't start so basic. QUESTION: I have a 16mb Adafruit SoundBoard trigger, with 0-10 audio 'holes' available. What is the advantage to not simple solder a header pin for every connection? All 11? What's the advantage to only doing two, three, or four, etc? ..... thanks again!!!
I've done it both ways for different boards in the past. The only advantage I can see to doing just the ones you need is that it saves on header pins if you're short of them. If you're not short of headers then I'd do them all with the expectation that maybe one day you'll use some of the others and they'll be ready.
obrigado!!
God Bless
You could add that theres more professional way to connect pins by crimping wires. Those wireends are called DUPONT and you can make connections looking as good as the where made by professionals.
Hi, ive got a problem, my female pin headers won't fit on one row, like trying to get them to match up to an esp32(I need to put several pin headers)
Thank you for the video. And where can I buy those?
I buy mine from here www.adafruit.com/?q=pin+headers&sort=BestMatch but there are plenty of places you can get them online.
Hi @RimstarOrg in case of a connection using these wires, how to prevent them from falling off? Do you use hot glue? Thanks for making this video :)
Hi Luis, That's a good question. I've wondered about the same. Other than making sure the wires are a fairly snug fit in the hole, I don't know what people usually do. Connections made this way are normally just for prototyping or hobbiest projects and so I've never run across any formal method. I've always just relied on a snug fit but every now and then a wire comes free. James Bruton (www.youtube.com/@jamesbruton/videos) is one whom I've seen do a huge number of projects with these types of connections and I don't recall ever seeing him to anything special. If you have some sort of enclosure for a board where the wires go through a hole then you could put a strain relief around the wires as they go through the hole. That will usually render the wires inside the enclosure fairly immobile. I have Raspberry Pi enclosure with narrow slots in the cover that sort of server that purpose. If the wires can't move then that's often enough. For example, you might tie strap them to something.
@@RimstarOrg I am tempted to solder the wires directly to my Arduino but I would like to keep that as a last option, just in case I decide to make something different :) The project I'm working on will suffer some trepidation so, I want to make sure nothing starts to float around. I'm always curious on what people are doing regarding this. Maybe its not a problem if you don't move them around :)
I just saw a trick in James Bruton's latest video. See th-cam.com/video/xt5njVXwxiY/w-d-xo.html where he's put male headers down into female and soldered the wires to the other end of the male headers. So something like these www.adafruit.com/product/2671
@@RimstarOrg nice find, thanks
@@RimstarOrg that's indeed an interesting idea. It likely only makes much sense if you have at least two wires/headers rather than single ones. I did use something similar in the past and bent the wires around the headers (like a nose) before soldering.
Would anyone know how to remove a free header from its plastic. one that is not attached to any board.
No soldering just removing the plastic freely from these pin headers
Thanks in advance.
If not using it to connect to another board, e.g. to connect to wires or breadboard, does it matter which side you perform the soldering?
I'd have to know more about the board to answer, there are many different types. If there's no metallic coating on the board, e.g. some boards are covered in copper, then it doesn't matter. You could test it with a meter by putting the meter on the resistance scale and touching two points on the board. If there's infinite resistance then there's no electrically conductive coating.
thanks i wasn't knowing how to cut female headers
*Which Camera and lens you use to record these Wonderful videos?*
I use the Canon Vixia HF M400 camcorder with no extra lens. It's an old one which I got back in the days when SLRs didn't have LCD displays yet. I use white CFL lighting. I also do a lot of color correction, gamma and contrast adjustment in the video editing software (Sony Vega Movie Studio).
RimstarOrg Thanks for detailed reply. Your videos are among the best Electronics videos on TH-cam. We learn a lot from your amazing videos. Great work. Keep it up.
When you have a choice, is there a rule to choose between a male or femal header ?
For example I have this 16 channel multiplexer with holes but no pins. I'm also building a sensor mat that will link to the multiplexed analog test pins. In my scenario I may change independently each device
1st solution is to put male header pins on the sensor map, and female on the multiplexer output, and mount the sensor map on the multiplexer
2nd solution is to put female header pins on the sensor map, and mount the male pins soldered on the multiplexer on it.
3rd would be to have long-female that provides both male and female connection on the multiplexer but this complicates the question (and I can't find easily a 16pins long male with female header, albeit I didn't search for a long time)
Is there a rule of preference ? some most-use cases ? some canons ? for example any sensor device may have most of the time male pins ?
Or can we expect each project to have his own connection policy ?
My 1st try will be to chose both male pins and mount them on a breadboard. I'll create later a pcb that would link them all together, but that creates additional wire connections that would lower the precision of the sensor mat a bit, I guess.
i'd solder male pin headers to your pcb and female headers to your sensor, this will be the most common way to do this
@@daanlageschaar3428 Thanks for your answer. So the only female pins on the pcb would be to stick the microcontroler ?
Unless it's pcb shields with male pins that would stick themselves on the controler
@@albandaumer3441 yes, correct
Standard practice is to make the power source female, like the power in your house. Less likely to short out. Imagine 120Vac on a male plug. Bad.
@@katemoon7476 True, this seams even clearer written this way. This also seem consistant with what Daan said if we consider the sensor is "generating" its output signals :)
Thanks for your video - If you have a female header installed on a pi, how can you connect this to a P.HAT which also has a female header
Use a jumper wire which has male pins on either end, like the one I show at 4:59.
Thanks
Great video - where do you get that breadboard at
I got mine from eBay. Cheap.
Are these also known as "through pins?" I have been trouble shooting an old Teac A-3440 reel to reel. The guys on the talk forums keep saying these units were known for "bad soldering on the through pins." Thanks
I don't think so. From the description here www.tapeheads.net/~tapehead/showthread.php?t=90890 it sounds like something else, pins for connecting traces on two sides of a circuit board.
If we use Directly Male jumper wire insted of Header Will They work?
I'm not sure I understand what you're asking. If you have two boards, each with female headers then yes, you can use a wire that has male on either end.
works on breadboard but not for real ones for sure
what soldering iron are you using? looks like a winner. if you recommend something different , i want to know that too!! just need something simple but effective. thanks !!!!!!!!!!!
I was using an old iron from a wood burning kit which I had as a kid (which takes a while to heat up but does work well for this). My LenLine 20-40watt one had recently given up. I've since upgraded to a more expensive but very nice Hakko FX-888D.
@@RimstarOrg Great, i will consider the Hakko FX-888D. Looks like a good one.
@@harpoon_bakery162 It’s OK, but it’s old technology and has arguably the worst user interface ever designed.
If you’re planning to do electronics even halfway seriously as a hobby, get the Pace ADS200. It costs more but is vastly superior.
If you’re only doing it very casually, get an Aliexpress or hobbyking 936 style soldering station. It’s the same performance as an FX888 for 1/5 the price.
@@tookitogo Great info, what variant of the PACE ADS200 should I get, the Standard Tool Stand or Instant Set Back-Stand and with those two options i can get with or without tips. What's your opinion and thank's so much for the great information!!!
Is it okay to solder two separate pin headers onto a board that have the same spacing but are not connected in an entire row?
Yes, that's okay. That should result in a bunch of pins (male pin header) or holes for pins (female pin header) that are not connected to each other as long as you're careful to not solder the pins underneath together when you do the soldering. Each pin sticking out the bottom of the pin header is electrically connected to whatever you plug into the pin or hole directly above it.
if you put on jumper wires on a stacking header for a raspberry pi, Will the stacking head still act like a GPIO pin?
It should, yes, provided the pin on the pi that you connect to is a GPIO pin.
I need jumper wires that go onto header pins that are 1.00mm in diameter but I can't find any. The diameter of normal header pins taht you see on arduino is 0.6mm so these pins are much larger. Do you know what they are called?
Sorry, but I don't know. You could all strip different size wires and see which wires will make a snug fit so that you don't need a special connector. From this wire sizing table en.wikipedia.org/wiki/American_wire_gauge#Tables_of_AWG_wire_sizes it looks like 18 AWG wire is around 1 mm in diameter.
How to connect respeaker mic-2 pihat and the fan on the raspberry pi at the same time
Can you cut off the edge of the jumper wires to directly solder in into a perf board???
Yes, you can. During prototyping, it's useful to be able to plug and unplug things but when you have something you want to be permanent then you solder things.
@@RimstarOrg thanks for the help
I have a bluetooth speaker im trying to repair. The board to board dual 5 pin connector has broke and the power is not getting to the main pcb from the line in pcb. Can I use pinheaders instead of board to board connection? Sorry I'm really new to pcb work.
Sure, you can use these types of pinheaders instead of the 5 pin connectors. One issue is whether or not the wires are thick enough to handle the current but I imagine the wires from your old 5 pin cable are pretty thin anyway.
@@RimstarOrg yeah that's what I'm wondering. It's a small bluetooth speaker but nowhere does it tell me how many watts etc. The pins are very small. Not the normal pcb pitch. That's where I'm stuck. Can I send a photo?
I don't think a photo would tell me enough. You'd have to measure the distance from hole-to-hole for what you have and hope that your measurement is accurate enough. There's also the question of are the pins too wide to fit in the holes.
Is gluing the headers really important? If so why doesn't Arduino do it for example?
I'm not sure I understand your overall question. I glue the pin headers because I need some way to fix them rigidly to the perfboard. There's no way to attach the pin headers to the Arduino directly.
@@RimstarOrg I assumed your perf board had plated through holes to solder onto on the backside and that you are hot gluing in addition to that solder joint to make it stronger. Based on your response, I can surmise that there was no plated through holes and you are not soldering the headers to the board at all.
Ah, thanks for clarifying. Yes, the perf board's not plated.
Nice. thanks. can these pin male and female headers be used power cables for 220v ac , till 2Amps. cap. ??
No. These are for very low power and voltages.
i like the vido
@4:40, where to get these solid core wires? Name and link
I get those bare, solid core wires by stripping insulation from a normal solid core wire. Those look like they were 18 gauge (AWG) but get whatever size suits your expected current. Note that they're copper wire. They look silver because they're coated (plated) with silver, nickel, or tin. You can see me putting them in place at 5:30. I buy my wire from local electronics stores, which we're lucky enough to have. It looks like Adafruit has spools of only 22 and 24 AWG www.adafruit.com/?q=wire%20solid%20core . It does seem to be hard to find on Ebay www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=solid+core+wire+spool+18+AWG&_sacat=0&LH_TitleDesc=0&_osacat=0&_odkw=solid+core+wire+spool A google search turns up more www.google.ca/search?source=hp&q=wire+solid+core+18+AWG&oq=wire+solid+core+18+AWG
Thanks
Look for “bus wire”. “Solid bare copper wire” is the most generic term.
Did the jumper wires can fit in the female header?
Yes, the jumper wires fit in the female header.
What is the solder wont "flow" down to a cone shape? mine becomes a blob at the top of the pin and WONT stick, or even toutch the citcular pad on the board :( its like the pad activly repells the tin. I have cleaned everything with alcohol.
Are you heating the pad? You need to touch the tip of the solding iron to the pad and the bas of the pin to heat them up. Then touch higher up on the pin with the solder. Since the pad and the pin are hot, the solder will flow down onto them. But also make sure you first clean the tip of your soldering iron, usually by pushing it in an out in something like steel wool and then putting some solder on it. I'd suggest looking for videos on soldering as there is a specific technique to it.
@@RimstarOrg Yeah. I did pre-heat both the pin and pad for >30 seconds and I just cleaned the tip of the soldering iron. I've been trying for days to get those pins soldered but I have given up and I will buy new tin and see if my current cheap tin is the problem. My soldering iron is also only rated for 30 watts so it might be running cold, im not sure. Thank you for these videos and your help!
Cheap tin could be a problem. Tin that has a rosin core is better. It helps to use an acid or rosin to basically clean the surface of oxides so that the soldering will work better. That's my understanding anyway.
@@RimstarOrg I bought new tin yesterday, and a warmer soldering iron. WOW :D It melted so smooth and I got a perfect cone every time. Thanks!
Glad to hear it! I know I had a 30W soldering iron for a while, it was underwhelming, though for these pads I'm not sure how many watts you need. Either way, I'm glad to hear work got it working. Thanks.
Hi, what is the name of the tool you use in 3:57?
They're usually called snips, tin snips, aviation snips and sometimes shears.
Can I cut the Male Pin Jumper wire Breadboard Arduino Dupont Cable head to suntitule this pin?
No, they’re not made for that. And they’re much more expensive, too.
Why are you doing a continuity test like that you'd want to check if the solder accidentally connected to the pin next to it it's obvious that the soldered pin is connected.
You'd also check the continuity of the neighboring connections as well to make sure each are independent.
Please make a video "transistor as a amplifier"
Why not put female headers on the level shift board? Why not put male headers upside down? Use the headers in the way you need them.
This video teaches you to take the long way around the barn.
I try and put the female headers on whichever part I expect to be replaced more often, since male headers never wear out, but female ones will loosen with repeated insertion cycles.
I need a female to female 40 pin gpio header, not cable, do you know where I can get one from or how to make one, thanks
Why are you not using a perfboard with copper pads?
It's just a case of using what I have available..
emejing
01:45
Here are videos about better jumper wires: th-cam.com/video/eI3fxTH6f6I/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/N3zK9fzIPBo/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/GkbOJSvhCgU/w-d-xo.html , th-cam.com/video/DNnzV1hkRXI/w-d-xo.html .
Why your hands were so shaky
Some people have it(so do I, and my father), never seen a shaky hand on soldering before?
I think he's relatively of age, which is a factor
@@amrfwws4461 I sort of have it too, but it's probably because I'm a guitar player and I cannot stop moving my hands
@@moki2093 Well, I'm also a guitar player, lol. Maybe that's why, only shaking a little bit though. And my dad he likes repairing electronic(I like making Arduino projects) which have a really small component, maybe that's why the hands began shaky. But I'm also think that my father have a real problem with his hands because it's so shaky, I don't remember the name of the symptoms or disease, but it exist!
@@amrfwws4461 it might be Parkinson's, but i don't think I have that
I'm just a kid lol
You doing ok?
Your hands seem to shake more than they used to...
Naw, they've always shaken when working on tiny stuff like that. I figured it was pretty normal, so I left more in than usual. I shouldn't be a surgeon :). Thanks for asking.
RimstarOrg k, keep being you then (:
There must be a more professional way of doing connectors.
There is: crimping. Just... what a rabbit hole it can be. :::looks over at my dozen crimp tools which still don’t cover all the connectors I want to use::
@@tookitogo it's quite the pain
@@harpoon_bakery162 Yeah. But making good crimps is soooo satisfying! :D
I think there are 50 more professional ways of doing connectors, and that's the problem.
@@TaiViinikka Namely...? Soldering, crimping, spot welding, screw terminal, spring clamp... what’s left? (I think that a huge percentage of the connector terminations fall under the “crimping” category.)
sodder
i thought he said "hi gay"
Americans will get offended because you said female and male pin headers
Andrew Simon Uhhhh, no, that’s what we Americans call them.
The leftist rabble play a power game. They complain about everything and see if you are stupid enough to jump through the hoop they create for you. The goal is nothing about "justice," it is about annoying normal people and their pathological need to validate their feelings of self-supremacy by making you bend to their demands.