How To Paint A Window Sill: The Best Way Ever!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 11 ก.ย. 2024
- Ever wonder how professional painters get a window sill to look buttery smooth. Some say its not possible for mere humans to accomplish such a task. Jeremy isn't human, but he wants to help humankind by showing step by step how to paint window sill so you'll think its glass. After watching this video you'll think.....wow, Jeremy isn't human and can paint smooth sills, now I can paint smooth sills..... Am I human???
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Came for windowsill paint tips, was intrigued by the icbinbutter paint joke. Stayed for the Ted Nugent.
Can’t deny the Nuge!
Yes!!!!😂😂😂😊
Wow, "I can't believe it not butter". You're so cool. Great painting tip. Thanks for sharing.
You are most welcome 🫡
Different perspective to applying paint than I’m used to but great to see brushing everything works out for you and your clients!
This might not be your target audience, but I would love to watch a video on how you and your brother started off painting. Some behind the scenes stuff into your business like marketing would be awesome to see for those sole owner operators just starting out like me! Thanks for the videos
I will put that in my list for future videos. We can definitely do that. Word of mouth has been our best marketing tool, but we’ll probably talk about that in the video 👍
My favorite line (and line delivery): “that open time [Advance] is eternity.”
Thank you sir. I never know if those lines hit or not. 😃
Great video - very helpful! What grit do you use to sand between paint coats?
I usually use 150 grit
Why dont you use a wider brush? That way its all going the same way without having to go back and forth with the shorter width one as much
You’re welcome to give it a go with a 3 inch. I’m a fan of a 2 1/2 inch. It’s what I use to paint all the trim and doors so it’s what I’m use to. As the brushes get bigger they get heavier and less accurate. It comes down to personal preference but 3 inch brushes is about as big as I’ve seen anyone use on interior trim.
I akways get brish lines every time maybe its the paint im using so i cut in then use sponge roller
No matter the paint being used, if you use a brush there will be brush marks. The question is to what degree and are the brush marks in a uniform direction. When I’m brushing on product I want my strokes to be in a consistent pattern (usually with the grain) and look like one big brush stroke. Not a bunch of little choppy ones.
What was you other painting channel do you use software app for estimate invoice
Jobber is the software that we use for estimates and client management.
Great teaching video! What primer and paint would you recommend for windowsills that may get frost in the winter on them or if plant water is accidentally spilled? Thanks
I’d go with emerald urethane trim enamel for that application. It’s rated for interior and exterior use so it’ll hold up well with big temperature swings.
Should the brush strokes be visible at all with newly painted sills (new) and new trim?
Yeah, you’re going to see brush strokes if you brushed it. The goal with hand brushing is for it to look like one long uniform brush stroke that goes with the grain of the wood
I would have watched this just for the music. Nice choice.
The Nuge!
Great video!! Could you have also used a roller on the top surface, being that you had a decent size area to work with?
You can use a roller, however the sill in the video had previously been brushed so I stuck with brushing it. Often we’ll go off of what’s been done previously to try and keep the texture consistent. If you’re starting with a brand new sill then it comes down to personal preference. I prefer the brushed look but you can go for whatever melts your butter 🤙
Bam! Super clear and helpful tips on technique, great video and it looks awesome!💪🏻
Do you ever have a problem with spackle or wood filler flashing? I’m having one with Dap’s “plastic wood” and it’s driving me nuts, I’ve had to sand the first coat of emerald and spot prime which suuuucks😐
It depends on how big the repair is. If it’s a little pinhole that we filled or like a nail hole, then usually it doesn’t flash. I’ve never used Dap’s plastic wood so I can’t speak to that. We use Sherwin Williams wood filler and that does pretty well for us. If it’s a bigger repair (whatever compound we use) then we treat it like a drywall repair and sand and prime it before hitting it with finish paint. You did the right thing by sanding it down and priming if it was flashing through. Carry on good sir 🫡
@@SuperVassarBrothers I picked up some of their non shrinking spackle to try yesterday and the stuff is great for nail holes in trim! It really doesn’t shrink so you can do a tight wipe over them and barely have to sand, it sands super easy though too and leaves a nice smooth non grainy finish. I’m still going to spot prime but one thing is for sure… I’ll never pre paint trim again, it’s a complete waste of time, effort, and material
Can use trim enamel on the entire window? Is it more hardware lasting than gloss ?
You can use it on all the paintable surfaces of the window. Gloss would be slightly more durable
This is just what the paint doctor ordered (actually you guys are the paint doctors). Don’t know why but cills are extremely difficult to get right.
Thank you good sir. They can be tricky, but if you’re using a good product and you keep it moving it’ll turn out well 🫡
Can you explain why you need to use the caulking? I have a sill like this I need to paint, hence why I’m here.
We caulk to fill gaps in the woodwork which gives the sill (or any trim) a more seamless appearance once you’ve painted it.
What grit would you suggest for sanding between coats?
220 or 150
@@SuperVassarBrothers Thanks brothers!
Thank you for your great videos. Not a question related to window sills but since you are using Emerald trim I though I would ask here. I'm planning to use SW Emerald Trim to paint my kitchen cabinets. Because Emerald is so expensive I normally wait for sales to get it. I got a couple of gallons of Satin, but for the cabinets I'm thinking on using semi gloss so is more durable. Would it be OK / similar durability if I use the satin (I already have) for the first coat and buy semi gloss for the second coat?. (Obviously both paints tinted to the same color). I'm planning to use a sprayer with and FFLP tip if that makes any difference in your response.
I haven’t tried the process you’re referring to, but I’d probably stick to using Emerald Urethane Semi-gloss for all your coats. That will give you the most consistent and predictable result.
Emerald Satin is good looking stuff , also Satin hides imperfections best .... I doubt SG is any more durable than Satin , both about the same .... Satin has a very elegant look
Is deglosser such as krud cutter affective using in trim to degloss to be repainted ?
I’ve used other brands of deglosser and they do work well during the prep process. Sanding can also accomplish a similar effect.
@@SuperVassarBrothers which you prefer and when sanding you just lightly and quickly go over it once or twice. Afraid to ruin the surface or not get a uniform look or not sand enough
Lol "that open time is eternity"
It's quite long. You definitely don't have to use extender 😂
So helpful
I’m glad 😁
What grit of sandpaper did you use??
150
Thanks for content
Thanks for watching!
Do you have a video on hie to paint pvc/plastic trim? Thx
I have not done a video on that yet. I’m not sure if I’ve ever painted plastic trim. We’ve done Azek exterior trim, but I don’t think that’s what you’re talking about
@@SuperVassarBrothers Polysterene trim is sold at both Home depot and Lowe's. It's labeled as paintable
I cross hatch then put out in one direction I don’t know why I do that 😂
Gloss paint is so sticky though.
Whatever works for yah!
You'll never get a finish on a sill with water or hybrid paint as gd as oil, will always see brush strokes which we call "like a ploughed field" Oil is best but downside it yellows very quickly.
Oil does level out quite nicely, but it's harder and harder to get depending on what region you're in. For most folks oil is a big pain in the balls to use and isn't worth the trouble. The hybrids have come a long way especially if you get use to using them, and there's less of the yellowing issue than with traditional oil trim paints.
No gloss huh is it built in
I’m not sure what you mean 🤷♂️
No primer needed?
Not if it’s been previously painted with a water based trim paint. Scuff sand and then you’re ready to rip
1. buttery smooth will also depend on what paint you use , Emerald is a good choice of "water based" ... 2. your strokes should be "new paint INTO old paint" so if right handed start from right side and go left , that way you paint INTO the paint you just laid down , not out of it ....
Emerald Urethane is a hybrid. Whilst I understand the point of new paint into old paint, (you’re not the only person I’ve heard this from), in my experience this has more to do with your speed and the product.
@@SuperVassarBrothers I know what Emerald is , I use it all the time , I say "it's a good choice for water based" as opposed to oil based , which is how people think about paints "water clean up vs mineral spirits clean up" .... The technique I described is simply "painter 101" basic painting proper technique , SURE you can get around that with some paints like Emerald and with speed of application .... in general , it is the proper technique , not bashing you , just stating a fact and worth mentioning to people who don't paint often and can use some tips on proper application .....
Got you in a stranglehold
The Nuge will not be denied
Why use a brush rather than a roller? A roller gives a far superior finish compared to the stokes of a brush 🙁
There are too many reasons to list here. There are many applications where you can’t use a roller given the surface your painting. Intricate trim work, certain door types, crown molding, etc…. Also a well executed hand brushed finish is preferable by many folks over a rolled finish. Sometimes it’s a personal preference and sometimes it’s a best practices situation.