😂 I've done some sketchy stuff in my day but never climbed on gear that wasn't rated for climbing. Webbing used in this video is made by Blue Water and purchased at REI. Thanks for your comment.
@Climber Dad are there not any, "endless" versions of these? The bar tacked section makes me nervous! I have craine ties and car recovery straps that are, "endless" and trust those designs much better!
In the very beginning I show 2 different slings, one sewn and one tied. The sewn sling is as close to an "endless" as we have in climbing to my knowledge.
I will say when building an anchor, it’s best not to tie an overhand or indeed any knots on slings, it basically cuts in the amount of force they can take by half, now if it’s a new sling that’s still 11-12kN which is 2-3 times more than even the hardest whippers but it’s still something to think about
It seems like it bites a little better and is easier to loosen. I haven't done a good side by side comparison since I was a kid so maybe we need to do that.
I am pretty sure a klemheist is the only slip and grip knot that works with flat webbing. A classic prusik or autoblock (french) only work effectively with cord
It's important to note that the Klemheist is only good holding in one direction, where Prussik holds both directions (along the line). However, where the Prussik splits its wraps, all of the Klemheist's go towards holding in that one direction, so, better hold, same number of wraps. Also a bit better at deforming the standing line, like an Awning Hitch.
I do a similar setup for my toprope anchors, but I've got 2 overhands on either side of the twist. Otherwise, yeah, tethers, alpines. I probably prefer my prusics I think but it's good knowledge. We're looking to do some multipitch too so it's good to have some slings for general anchor building.
I only Boulder, so ive only used them to lift a washing machine two floors up so far and secure stuff on a truck. Great video man, you explain stuff very well.
I use a sling as a personal anchor for cleaning gear on sport routes. I noticed that when you showed a personal anchor you attached it to your harness with a carabiner, then said that recently everyone is using a girth hitch instead. Why is that? Wouldn't it be equally strong either way?
It's a safety thing, one less link in the system to fail. This isn't the original article talking about why but it will give you an idea. rockandice.com/climbing-gear-tips/whats-the-correct-way-to-girth-hitch-to-your-harness/
That tied sling looks like a nightmare.
I wouldn't trust it either lol looks like a HF strap
😂 I've done some sketchy stuff in my day but never climbed on gear that wasn't rated for climbing. Webbing used in this video is made by Blue Water and purchased at REI.
Thanks for your comment.
What's a good length and strap width for the improvised harness? I'm just on a scaffold and want a back up using a lanyard.
I normally get 8-10' lengths, which gives a bit extra for an improvised harness.
@Climber Dad are there not any, "endless" versions of these? The bar tacked section makes me nervous! I have craine ties and car recovery straps that are, "endless" and trust those designs much better!
In the very beginning I show 2 different slings, one sewn and one tied. The sewn sling is as close to an "endless" as we have in climbing to my knowledge.
I will say when building an anchor, it’s best not to tie an overhand or indeed any knots on slings, it basically cuts in the amount of force they can take by half, now if it’s a new sling that’s still 11-12kN which is 2-3 times more than even the hardest whippers but it’s still something to think about
this is amazing, what is the red ones length?
Thanks!
It's been a long time since I had my hands on that webbing. It's either a 12' or 15' piece.
What length of sling is this?
10 feet of webbing. Tied it's about the same as a 120cm runner, maybe a bit longer.
"...You're in charge". Thank for passing the ball back.
Your Welcome :)
@@climberdad was a mental moment can see you thinking..... can We
Do you see an advantage to using Klemheist (sp) over Prusik when using flat webbing?
It seems like it bites a little better and is easier to loosen. I haven't done a good side by side comparison since I was a kid so maybe we need to do that.
I am pretty sure a klemheist is the only slip and grip knot that works with flat webbing. A classic prusik or autoblock (french) only work effectively with cord
It's important to note that the Klemheist is only good holding in one direction, where Prussik holds both directions (along the line). However, where the Prussik splits its wraps, all of the Klemheist's go towards holding in that one direction, so, better hold, same number of wraps. Also a bit better at deforming the standing line, like an Awning Hitch.
Thanks Kurt!
You made it so difficult.
9:03 (....Boys...)
Hope you all enjoyed the video. What's your favorite use for slings or runner?
I do a similar setup for my toprope anchors, but I've got 2 overhands on either side of the twist. Otherwise, yeah, tethers, alpines. I probably prefer my prusics I think but it's good knowledge. We're looking to do some multipitch too so it's good to have some slings for general anchor building.
I only Boulder, so ive only used them to lift a washing machine two floors up so far and secure stuff on a truck.
Great video man, you explain stuff very well.
Sometimes I tie up my girlfriend with them
I use a sling as a personal anchor for cleaning gear on sport routes. I noticed that when you showed a personal anchor you attached it to your harness with a carabiner, then said that recently everyone is using a girth hitch instead. Why is that? Wouldn't it be equally strong either way?
It's a safety thing, one less link in the system to fail. This isn't the original article talking about why but it will give you an idea.
rockandice.com/climbing-gear-tips/whats-the-correct-way-to-girth-hitch-to-your-harness/
no more of these please.
Haha, I just saw this. Should I just stick to build videos or what?
Why this message ?
I wondered that too, shrug.