I am really thankful to you for making this video. I watched it a few times before and during the time I was framing in the walls on my metal building. It turned out great . You gave me confidence I could do it and I appreciate it very much!!!
I’m in the very early stages of building a 40x80 shop house. I plan do do exactly what you are doing. I’m sure I will be viewing your vids several times as my project progresses. Great info.
I'm so glad to see this. I'm doing the same thing. Everyone keeps telling us to build a normal house. Every time I do a brake down, it's way cheaper to do it this way. Plus, it's super thick walls with 2by4 framing.
Just watching your video, but you don't have to explain why you decided to put in walls. This is YOUR project. Thanks for sharing, I really enjoyed it.
I hate to say this, you are going to have water coming in under base plate. Why in the hell did they require 3 orr 6 inch revel around building. They need to have there ass kicked.
@@timothylesch4053 Thanks! I agree. I don't know why they required such a large apron around the edge, but I did silicone around the base and haven't had any issues.
Unless you are planning to insulate between the metal and backside of the 2x4s that 3 ply 2 x4 corner is going to be quite the cold spot. A "California corner" at least allows for 2" of insulation which is far better than none. Other wise good progress and nice work. Although I have to think that at 40" deep that office is going to be very tight but if it is all you need then that is what counts.
I live in Northwest Indiana, 30 minutes from Chicago. I had Midwest carport build me a 22x30 in July. I also framed and put 2 inch foam board insulation and drywall. Wondering how to do the ceiling. I will keep watching your progress! In my area they wanted almost 7k for spray.
I am going to spray foam insulate the ceiling with a thin layer of insulation. I am then going to frame in a hard ceiling. I won't spray the ceiling until May or so when the temperatures moderate.
Excellent teacher and very well organized. I want to build a small room in my garage using 2x4x8. I have a metal frame and door.Can I use the metal frame and door without using metal studs??
I took those supports off 8 years ago and threw em in the garbadge they serve no purpose just some engineer wasting time lol. I get high winds and heavy snows also been fine
thanks. i have been a car mechanic for the last 28 years and am about to retire. so I am planning to build something like this for all my tools. i am going to go with a 30x40 and install a couple lifts in it. i am also going to build a waste oil burner to keep warm. i wish i knew carpentry like you do but since i don't i will use pallet racks along the inside walls to use for storage. thanks again. will this company build this in TN?
I would check out Alans Factory Outlet website for the details. It is a Carolina Carport brand building but Alan's sells them. I know with COVID things got crazy and they were selling buildings but not able to get them installed in the time they projected. I would definitely make sure they have everything sorted out.
Thank you so much for your suggestion! I meant to catch up with you a little while ago. Using your suggestion we bought something similar to Declan but because it is temperature dependent, we will have to wait until next year.
No. The wood structure is independent of the metal building. One, the metal walls aren't plumb, and I don't want to put any stress on the metal building.
@@brettleybuilt Hope it works for you. Re the "breaking them apart" I've seen where old stone masons would drill holes in a straight line, then methodically drive in cut nails to split the rock, but your boulders are probably too huge to be affected by that.
When pulling layout and you’re marking 16” on center, I notice you mark 16” and then place an “X” to the side where the stud would lay. So does that mean it’s not actually on center if the stud is placed to the left or right of the actual 16” mark?
I pull my measurements off the end of the board. I make a mark at 16" and the "X" is ahead. If you move the tape measure 3/4" in from the end of the board, you will see it lands right in the middle of the "X".
Hi! 2 questions, if you don't mind. I may have missed it but are you attaching the wall frames to the floor OR the steel AND at 5:58, the 2nd steel support from the left behind the framed wall doesn't look plumb. Is that a concern? I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I could stand to learn a thing or three. Thanks!
The metal building walls are absolutely not plumb. I only attached the wood framing to the floor and no where is it attached to the metal building. The wood framing is its own structure. This is why I put plywood in certain areas, to make sure the wood framing had some rigidity.
Why not just spend the 2,000 and get it spray foamed and put up plywood or w.e u want up with self taping screws into the metal and that way u get a tight seal on the whole building and can keep your extra 14inches of square feet on floor that u loose framing it up. I'm looking into getting a pre fab put up so I'm just wondering why not do spray faom and u did framing and then insulation and are you insulating the ceiling??
I have no idea what spray foam is like these days but when I was a kid (30+ years ago) my dad spray foamed one of the farrowing sheds for the sows and just so happens we then got a mice plague and the little buggers chewed through the lot of it. Is spray foam rodent proof today?
So with the wood structure being in dependent is the combination of the anchoring into the concrete and using the double top plate to tie the walls together allow the ability to hold drywall without the topside of the wall falling over due to weight? I’m trying to figure out how to do this in my metal building and was very curious how to anchor the top plate (I don’t want to drill into the metal either). I would like to hang plywood on the walls, would this approach also hold the weight of plywood?
The top plate holds everything together, but I purposely built the three foot walls in the middle both to for installing beams to allow for a higher middle ceiling, but also to help stablize the outside walls. The plywood on the three foot walls really stiffened everything up. The ceiling joists help tie everything in as well.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks for the quick reply that was really helpful. I have a fairly small building, 12 ft W by 40 ft L, so I won't really have the space to put 3 Ft walls up as well. Do you think that double top plate approach + anchoring in the bottom plate would be enough to hold Plywood? I also thought of putting joists across the 12 ft width for stability but I'm concerned with 1, how that would look and 2 making the already small building feel smaller. Would love any thoughts you might have.
Check out more Metal Garage videos here:
th-cam.com/play/PLLeTRuTziDk6iU3eXPWaWMI-0D6C5LRui.html
I am really thankful to you for making this video. I watched it a few times before and during the time I was framing in the walls on my metal building. It turned out great . You gave me confidence I could do it and I appreciate it very much!!!
A most practical guide as to what to do with a gingerbread house. Looks like fun!
Not the Gum drop buttons!!! Great Video. Really appreciate you taking the time to make these.
I’m in the very early stages of building a 40x80 shop house. I plan do do exactly what you are doing. I’m sure I will be viewing your vids several times as my project progresses. Great info.
I'm so glad to see this. I'm doing the same thing. Everyone keeps telling us to build a normal house. Every time I do a brake down, it's way cheaper to do it this way. Plus, it's super thick walls with 2by4 framing.
How thick did your walls come out to be after this.
They are still only 2x4 walls. You could spray foam the metal walls, and the put the 2x4 walls up like I did, and have a wall about 6 1/2 inches wide.
Nice garage wall build. I had to chuckle at the ginger bread house massacre. 👍🏽🤠 8/7/23
Just watching your video, but you don't have to explain why you decided to put in walls. This is YOUR project. Thanks for sharing, I really enjoyed it.
Great video. I just got done framing out my pole barn for my machine shop. I see you’re a fellow PA resident. Whereabouts? I’m in Bangor.
Ellwood City.
Your on the right track 👍👍 While your framing. Would be a great time to think about windows in it
Didn't want windows in this building.
you know the diff between inlaws and out laws? outlaws are wanted lol lol thx for the show
Nice progress, looking forward to seeing how you do the ceiling!
I hate to say this, you are going to have water coming in under base plate. Why in the hell did they require 3 orr 6 inch revel around building. They need to have there ass kicked.
@@timothylesch4053 Thanks! I agree. I don't know why they required such a large apron around the edge, but I did silicone around the base and haven't had any issues.
Good channel! Can’t wait to watch more.
Thanks!
Unless you are planning to insulate between the metal and backside of the 2x4s that 3 ply 2 x4 corner is going to be quite the cold spot. A "California corner" at least allows for 2" of insulation which is far better than none. Other wise good progress and nice work. Although I have to think that at 40" deep that office is going to be very tight but if it is all you need then that is what counts.
I will give the insulation some thought by the 2x4s. Thanks!
I live in Northwest Indiana, 30 minutes from Chicago. I had Midwest carport build me a 22x30 in July. I also framed and put 2 inch foam board insulation and drywall. Wondering how to do the ceiling. I will keep watching your progress! In my area they wanted almost 7k for spray.
I am going to spray foam insulate the ceiling with a thin layer of insulation. I am then going to frame in a hard ceiling. I won't spray the ceiling until May or so when the temperatures moderate.
Excellent teacher and very well organized. I want to build a small room in my garage using 2x4x8. I have a metal frame and door.Can I use the metal frame and door without using metal studs??
Absolutely. Metal studs are expensive and I don't really see an advantage to them unless you are trying to achieve a specific fire rating.
Your a good teacher
All good work . Good on ya mate. But. No moisture barrier between the concrete and the timber ??? Just asking . I'm no builder.
Thanks! The wood on the bottom is pressure treated approved for ground contact.
Hi, love the videos. Do you anchor the frames into the concrete and is that the only anchoring you used. Thanks
Framing is anchored to the concrete and is completely independent of the metal building.
Destroying Gingerbread houses with Airsoft Rifles, LOL I LOVE IT!!!!!LOL
I took those supports off 8 years ago and threw em in the garbadge they serve no purpose just some engineer wasting time lol. I get high winds and heavy snows also been fine
thanks. i have been a car mechanic for the last 28 years and am about to retire. so I am planning to build something like this for all my tools. i am going to go with a 30x40 and install a couple lifts in it. i am also going to build a waste oil burner to keep warm. i wish i knew carpentry like you do but since i don't i will use pallet racks along the inside walls to use for storage. thanks again. will this company build this in TN?
I would check out Alans Factory Outlet website for the details. It is a Carolina Carport brand building but Alan's sells them. I know with COVID things got crazy and they were selling buildings but not able to get them installed in the time they projected. I would definitely make sure they have everything sorted out.
Carpentry is easy. I wish I knew more about aito mechanics.
Have you tried using fire to weaken the rocks before trying to break them?
We will be in the spring. A viewer let us know about some expanding grout he used.
Drill 1 inch holes in rock and use Declan
Thank you so much for your suggestion! I meant to catch up with you a little while ago. Using your suggestion we bought something similar to Declan but because it is temperature dependent, we will have to wait until next year.
Are you attaching the wall studs to the metal posts? Enjoying your work 😊
No. The wood structure is independent of the metal building. One, the metal walls aren't plumb, and I don't want to put any stress on the metal building.
If the metal beams were closer together, could you insulate and attach the drywall directly to them?
I wouldn't. The buildings are designed for certain loads and aren't meant to have a bunch of weight attached to them.
😂 "5 year old's bedroom."
wat is the advantage of doing metal and then wood framing vs. wood framed to begin with. Does not having to put up OSB help to offset the added cost?
It offset some of the cost, but the main driving factor was getting a garage in a day and using it immediately.
Speaking of red-necky, did you try using winter ice to push your boulders out?
That might be a pretty good idea. Let me give that some thought on how to get that done. I would even settle for breaking them apart with ice.
@@brettleybuilt Hope it works for you. Re the "breaking them apart" I've seen where old stone masons would drill holes in a straight line, then methodically drive in cut nails to split the rock, but your boulders are probably too huge to be affected by that.
Tannerite my friend... tannerite LOL
When pulling layout and you’re marking 16” on center, I notice you mark 16” and then place an “X” to the side where the stud would lay. So does that mean it’s not actually on center if the stud is placed to the left or right of the actual 16” mark?
I pull my measurements off the end of the board. I make a mark at 16" and the "X" is ahead. If you move the tape measure 3/4" in from the end of the board, you will see it lands right in the middle of the "X".
Could you have used an insulation board first before building walls?
Absolutely. You would have had to anchor the boards to the metal somehow.
I love a metal frame building, but not the usability of metal framing like wood.
Are you connecting the wood framing to the metal framing?
Absolutely not. I don't want to put any unnecessary stress on the building. The structure inside is completely independent.
so how exactly do you anchor your wood framing? I see onto your 3rd wall everything is still sorta loose?
The wood frame inside stands by itself and is anchored to the floor.
@@brettleybuilt hm I guess I should hold my questions till the end! ill come across it in your videos great work!
Hi! 2 questions, if you don't mind. I may have missed it but are you attaching the wall frames to the floor OR the steel AND at 5:58, the 2nd steel support from the left behind the framed wall doesn't look plumb. Is that a concern? I'm thinking about doing the same thing. I could stand to learn a thing or three. Thanks!
The metal building walls are absolutely not plumb. I only attached the wood framing to the floor and no where is it attached to the metal building. The wood framing is its own structure. This is why I put plywood in certain areas, to make sure the wood framing had some rigidity.
That's what I thought. I just didn't see it in the video. Thank you! It will looks great!
And my condolences to the ginger bread houses...
2:19 you state you like to keep your studs at 16" on center, but you placed the stud at 14 3/4" on center. Why?
What do you attach the frame to? To keep it from falling down?
The whole inner frame stands alone. If you watch later videos, you will see how the wood structure is tied together.
Why not just spend the 2,000 and get it spray foamed and put up plywood or w.e u want up with self taping screws into the metal and that way u get a tight seal on the whole building and can keep your extra 14inches of square feet on floor that u loose framing it up. I'm looking into getting a pre fab put up so I'm just wondering why not do spray faom and u did framing and then insulation and are you insulating the ceiling??
I have no idea what spray foam is like these days but when I was a kid (30+ years ago) my dad spray foamed one of the farrowing sheds for the sows and just so happens we then got a mice plague and the little buggers chewed through the lot of it. Is spray foam rodent proof today?
Yes, I am insulating the ceiling.
So with the wood structure being in dependent is the combination of the anchoring into the concrete and using the double top plate to tie the walls together allow the ability to hold drywall without the topside of the wall falling over due to weight? I’m trying to figure out how to do this in my metal building and was very curious how to anchor the top plate (I don’t want to drill into the metal either). I would like to hang plywood on the walls, would this approach also hold the weight of plywood?
The top plate holds everything together, but I purposely built the three foot walls in the middle both to for installing beams to allow for a higher middle ceiling, but also to help stablize the outside walls. The plywood on the three foot walls really stiffened everything up. The ceiling joists help tie everything in as well.
@@brettleybuilt Thanks for the quick reply that was really helpful. I have a fairly small building, 12 ft W by 40 ft L, so I won't really have the space to put 3 Ft walls up as well. Do you think that double top plate approach + anchoring in the bottom plate would be enough to hold Plywood? I also thought of putting joists across the 12 ft width for stability but I'm concerned with 1, how that would look and 2 making the already small building feel smaller. Would love any thoughts you might have.
How did you fasten the top of your 2x4 to you steel frame?
The framing isn't attached to the metal building. It is a stand alone structure.
So if the top is not attached to the steel how how do you keep from falling over? Sorry rookie question
Did I miss how he attaches the seal plate to the concrete?
I anchor the pressure treated wood to the floor with Tapcons and Redhead bolts.
I have a couple more places to bolt down. I will add that to my next video.
What size is your shop ?
22 feet by 30 feet, by 10 feet tall.
Seems like you’re actually loosing 3 1/2” on all the walls by installing your walls in front of the metal studs
I am, but I bought a large enough building to account for the space I would need with the loss of the seven inches.
why wouldnt you just strapp the metal studs and use that to anchor your drywall etc to same way they would do a pole barn build
The building is designed for certain loads. I don't want to mess with the building and I needed a way to put a drywall ceiling in it.
What size garage is that LxWxH?
22 feet wide by 30 feet long with 10 foot sides. The center of the ceiling in the garage is about 13 feet tall.
What kind of nail gun is that?
Pasload framing nailer. I bought it from Lowe's for $300.
How tall is your leg height? Thanks.
10 feet.
What's the model # of the nail Gun?
Pasload framing nailer. Pasload makes framing and finish nailers, but this one is the framing nailer.
@@brettleybuilt ok so what is the model # of the frame nailer?
@@capthwdy08 I looked on the gun for a model number. Didn't see anything specific. I bought it from Lowe's for $300.00.
@@brettleybuilt ok thanx
insulate first before u put the main wall up
Ty. I was wondering about that