Because I’m already getting lit up about pressing the bearing in by the inner race: I know the outer race is ideal, but this is a tapered roller bearing, and it is okay to press by the inner race. It’s also held in that way - no snap ring or lock. Just a bolt to the axle clamping the inner race, which pulls inward (direction of press) on the bearing only on the inner race, while the outer race is seated against the inner flange. I appreciate the concern, and I know it’s not the ideal scenario, but I even confirmed it with shops that do this every day. 😃🍻
The early 90's Celica wheel bearings are the same way, and most shops in my area won't touch them cause they always break when installing the new ones. And, axle nut torqued to spec is an ABSOLUTE MUST on bearings like this. Over torque it and you shatter the races, under torque and the bearing wears too quick.
I have a strong feeling the Audi is going to make you a patient man, Mike, whether you like it or not. I'm all too familiar with what seems like one easy thing turning into hours of scouring the internet for answers on my projects.
Wheel bearings on urq are simple non stepped 75mm all around, available everywhere. Also, the single piece Urq struts are actually lighter than the 2 piece B3/B4 struts. Also, you can use the new style control arms with the original stuts BTDT many times. Also.... shall I keep going? Parts are available, you just need to know where to find them. Joining online forums and groups can open up a big resource into sourcing parts. For suspension, always go with Lamforder, they are OEM and will outlast any of the aftermarket crap like Delphi
@@seangray-4223 On the Ur-quattro originally up to 1985 both front and rear bearings are the same 75mm non stepped. Starting 1986 the front bearings increased to 82mm, also non stepped, while rear remained 75mm.
I have an Audi 80 Quattro B2 - if you say you are impatient - trust me this car will test your patience every single step of the way. Good luck, we are all rooting for you on this one.
Glad to see an update! I enjoy my old BMW's, but I adore my vintage Audis. Yes the parts availability can be tricky, but they are put together 20x better than my old BMW's, so fortunately that means I'm performing the work less often.
@stanceworks Mike. Just a quick tip but when you have the car sat on its wheels then that is the time to torque up the suspension arm bolts otherwise you will chew up your new bushings if they are tightened without sprung weight on them. HTH.
Trick from motocross for easy bearing install. Put bearings in freezer engine cases on bbq. They just drop in. Works like a charm even if you can't heat the external side cold bearings still slide in better
I used to work at a construction equipment shop; we had a pressure cooker that we would fill with dry ice. Drop your bearing in there for a few hours and it goes into its home easy-peasy!
Mike, I think I heard you say that you were looking for 16" rims, which would be period-correct and large enough to fit brakes that are appropriate for the original power output of that car or a Coupe Quattro. They will not, however, be able to fit the size of brakes you will need with the amount of power you are likely to get out of an even lightly tuned version of that motor. In the VW/Audi OEM world, the largest brakes that I have found that will fit under 16" rims are the 312mm front rotors and calipers fitted to the non-PowerPack Golf GTI Mk7, 7.5, and 8. For that size rotor, Tarox has a 2-piece rotor and caliper combination that can fit under some of the wider 16" rims that are specifically designed for clearance, but that is the best combination that I have found so far. The PowerPack versions of the GTI come with larger front rotors (340mm) that require a 17" rim to clear the calipers, and there are a variety of big brake kits available with rotors of that size. The higher-power AWD Golf R comes with even larger front rotors (357mm). The OEM fitment for that car is 18" or 19" rims, but Apex Wheels has a forged model VS-5RS that is the only 17" rim that I have seen specifically designed to clear the Golf R brake calipers on those larger rotors. I don't know whether the dimensions or looks of those wheels will work for you, but it is all a balance between the looks that you want and the brakes that you need to match the speed potential of that car. Looking forward to seeing what you end up going with!
Nice to see your progress, but dont push bearings in from the inner race. Always push from the outer race. Pushing from the inner race can damage the bearing. Just keep the old ones and grind the outer race a little and you have perfect sized tool to push them in.
These particular bearings are only even held in by the inner race versus outer race. No snap ring or anything. It’s a tapered bearing that is okay to press in by the center. I was skeptical too but I asked some shops first.
I'm glad to hear it - thanks for taking the time to reply! Good luck with the build, I'm sure it's gonna look great. It's amazing how much I enjoy your channel given how much I dislike Audis and Honda I4's. :) Keep up the great work!
Mike's mind would be blown working on an old peugeot. The interchangeability of parts from an 88 405 and a 04 406 is hilarious. Even parts from even later models retro fit. Not to mention cross model parts sharing
Regarding 11:30 - only torque the wishbone bolts up when the car is on all four wheels (bearing the cars weight) otherwise you will shred the bushes very quickly if you torque up the bolts any other way.
FYI at 3:50 your loading the inner bearing race against the outer, I believe your only suppose to load the outer race when pressing a bearing in, at least that's what I've been taught ....
Here is a scanning tip. Start the scan in the centre and then move to both sides. That way your scan will be more accurate. And another reason is the way bounding box works. I don't know if you have noticed this, but there is a bounding box and the size of it is determined by resolution you are using. Also, it is constructed when you first hit the start scan button and it has a specific positioning. You can find more information in the manual actually to figure out the size and placement of it if your patient enough :D If you see a straight cut line somewhere in a larger scan, you have reached the limits of that bounding box. Saving the scan as point cloud and meshing in another software would help if you don't want to re-do the whole scan.
I have spent a lot of time crawling around on the floor, when we got our lift it took a while to use the lift as intended. While doing brakes, some of us would be crawling around underneath. We would hear someone say “ya know it goes up and down right?” Sometimes a 20 min job on jack stands is easier than clearing the lift. Nice press btw!
I am happy to see this project back in focus. I am a loyal Audi fan boy having had a b5 avant, a b5 s4 avant, a b5 rs4 avant (in England) a q7 and my current SQ8. I look forward to watching this project evolve!👍👍
Nice to see an update on the Urq. Yes, those of us who choose to keep/drive/fix these things are a glutton for punishment because some parts are NLA or extremely difficult to source. That being said, its our choice, but the older Audi's are so fun and unique. Nice to see Dave supplying you with the goods you need!
What’s nice about that giant arbor press is it’s fast. I have an old Dake bench top arbor press but it’s only good for a few tons of downward force. A cheap bottle jack press (I think it’s 20 ton?) does a great job with a small footprint, but it takes forever and is very difficult to operate one handed. Your press does it all, and faster.
If you’re looking for 16” wheels with a 5x112 pattern that will fit, mk5 gti spares will fit over a pretty good size set of brakes. Looking forward to your next video
5x114.3 will work on 5x112 if you use wobble bolts, I do that on my rallycross Beetle to fit my Sparco wheels that I also run on my S550 Mustang (all using the proper centering rings, of course). Edit: I should say, it will work if the lug bolt hole tolerance is big enough for the extra diameter bolt circle. In the case of my Sparco wheels, it is just big enough.
Try 90% isopropyl, instead of the 70% isopropyl I’m assuming you used, for your talc / alcohol scan matting mix, for a faster drying time. Also, realize the alcohol will thoroughly screw up the wax. Also, I came across a FB group, that might be of interest, for inspiration/ reference, on wide bodies. The group name is, Group 5 “Special Production Cars” 1976-1982
I have also tried adding baby powder to a spray bottle and had it jam up, what i found worked REALLY WELL, was taking that same mixture and shooting it through the 15 dollar purple harbor freight gun. I bottled up the unused concoction so it didnt evaporate out but i got some really good results from it
if you are looking for rollers VW Vanagons and Buses are also 5x112 and the newer VW's but the van crowed are often looking to give away 14" steel wheels.
Instead of having to send parts off to be ceracoated you should look into rust bluing. The same thing they do with firearms. Its perfect on things where you don't have tolerances to add a layer of paint. You can buy bluing agent or you can make your own for super cheap
I feel you on parts. I have an 03 Audi S6 and an 89 Porsche 944. I would say there are way more parts available for the Porsche. I know when it was 20 years old I could build a new car from Porsche.
Mike a long term solution for maybe look into getting some Gunny wheels they are super skinny support multiple lug patterns and make anything you can bolt one onto a roller. Storage is also great for them.
Its wild to watch this and see how similar in suspension design and structure Audi has maintained over the years. As i was watching the install of the ball joint it clicked its identical to the way my TT is setup design wise.
You dont actually need wheels that fit, just wheels that sit flush with the hubs. You can use all thread through 2 of the bolt holes to clamp the wheel onto take measurements. Done it heaps on different track cars.
Trick to take off the bearing race off the hub. Put it on a cordless drill on the chuck. Put the drill on the ground and start spinning hub. Heat the race as the hub spins and it should just fall off when heat heated enough.
Both my e30 and my e46 are fully refurbished with powerflex bushings and they're so easy to install and so nice for the car overall behaviours it would be a crime not to use them...
That suspension looks great! I had a few Audi 5000s which had front suspension that looked a lot like that the UrQ had front and rear. Very heavy (and I did wheel bearing replacement using a very similar looking arbor press at college).
I saw you used a screw with 8.8 at the subframe (at 10:40).. is that like the original was? Often those screws for suspensions are in 10.8 or even 12.9 🤔
Are you 100% sure your ball joints went on correctly? I know on my A3 they go on the top of the control arm then the bolts up from the bottom, then the nuts on the top
Instead of alcohol and baby powder, you can you athletes foot foot spray. Use it on golf clubs to see where the ball strikes and works well for 3d scanners as well.
The sport quattro front end also looks better because of the steeper rake on the windshield. The long wheel base quattro has a less steep rake, and I'm afraid it will look weird with the sport quattro front, without changing the windshield (which is not possible without cutting the car in half)
@@stanceworksI had doubts, but I guess it will look okay... This is a LWB quattro with the front sport quattro grilles and lights. Video by Larry Chen th-cam.com/video/GCVJ8GggI0s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AOT-4N7XFiAuySrw
I wholeheartedly disagree! As a huge Audi fan, and previous owner of a number of '80s Audis, I never liked the steep rake of the Sport Quattro windshield... the shallow rake looks MUCH better in my eyes. So much so that, if given a choice between the two cars (Sport or Ur), I'd take the Ur every time... even with the huge value difference.
Parts availability I know it’s not the same but I have a diesel Volkswagen TDI that I think is the best car ever. I keep my parts stocked I just buy parts every month I just go shopping through the catalogs you know online and just keep extra parts by whether I need it or not, one day I will need it I’ll have it
Because I’m already getting lit up about pressing the bearing in by the inner race:
I know the outer race is ideal, but this is a tapered roller bearing, and it is okay to press by the inner race. It’s also held in that way - no snap ring or lock. Just a bolt to the axle clamping the inner race, which pulls inward (direction of press) on the bearing only on the inner race, while the outer race is seated against the inner flange.
I appreciate the concern, and I know it’s not the ideal scenario, but I even confirmed it with shops that do this every day. 😃🍻
I just came to scold you! Good on you for owning it.
I'm surprised there is no snap ring. My old Audi 5000 had one.
5000 was the same as the UrQuattro uprights, which did have snap rings. The B3 parts do not.
@@Nobody-U-Want-2-Know Same, how dare you beat us to the punch...
The early 90's Celica wheel bearings are the same way, and most shops in my area won't touch them cause they always break when installing the new ones. And, axle nut torqued to spec is an ABSOLUTE MUST on bearings like this. Over torque it and you shatter the races, under torque and the bearing wears too quick.
I have a strong feeling the Audi is going to make you a patient man, Mike, whether you like it or not. I'm all too familiar with what seems like one easy thing turning into hours of scouring the internet for answers on my projects.
Wheel bearings on urq are simple non stepped 75mm all around, available everywhere. Also, the single piece Urq struts are actually lighter than the 2 piece B3/B4 struts. Also, you can use the new style control arms with the original stuts BTDT many times. Also.... shall I keep going? Parts are available, you just need to know where to find them. Joining online forums and groups can open up a big resource into sourcing parts. For suspension, always go with Lamforder, they are OEM and will outlast any of the aftermarket crap like Delphi
Well said Martin.
FYI the rear hub bearings are the same size as the E30.
@@seangray-4223 On the Ur-quattro originally up to 1985 both front and rear bearings are the same 75mm non stepped. Starting 1986 the front bearings increased to 82mm, also non stepped, while rear remained 75mm.
I have an Audi 80 Quattro B2 - if you say you are impatient - trust me this car will test your patience every single step of the way. Good luck, we are all rooting for you on this one.
Glad to see an update! I enjoy my old BMW's, but I adore my vintage Audis. Yes the parts availability can be tricky, but they are put together 20x better than my old BMW's, so fortunately that means I'm performing the work less often.
@stanceworks Mike. Just a quick tip but when you have the car sat on its wheels then that is the time to torque up the suspension arm bolts otherwise you will chew up your new bushings if they are tightened without sprung weight on them. HTH.
Trick from motocross for easy bearing install. Put bearings in freezer engine cases on bbq. They just drop in. Works like a charm even if you can't heat the external side cold bearings still slide in better
I used to work at a construction equipment shop; we had a pressure cooker that we would fill with dry ice. Drop your bearing in there for a few hours and it goes into its home easy-peasy!
That's not from "motocross", every knowledge enough mechanic knows that truck.
@@j.d.8593I don’t know the truck
@@cermo9101 that's because you don't knowledge enough.
@@OdyTypeR the joke went over your head didn’t it
Mike, I think I heard you say that you were looking for 16" rims, which would be period-correct and large enough to fit brakes that are appropriate for the original power output of that car or a Coupe Quattro. They will not, however, be able to fit the size of brakes you will need with the amount of power you are likely to get out of an even lightly tuned version of that motor.
In the VW/Audi OEM world, the largest brakes that I have found that will fit under 16" rims are the 312mm front rotors and calipers fitted to the non-PowerPack Golf GTI Mk7, 7.5, and 8. For that size rotor, Tarox has a 2-piece rotor and caliper combination that can fit under some of the wider 16" rims that are specifically designed for clearance, but that is the best combination that I have found so far.
The PowerPack versions of the GTI come with larger front rotors (340mm) that require a 17" rim to clear the calipers, and there are a variety of big brake kits available with rotors of that size. The higher-power AWD Golf R comes with even larger front rotors (357mm). The OEM fitment for that car is 18" or 19" rims, but Apex Wheels has a forged model VS-5RS that is the only 17" rim that I have seen specifically designed to clear the Golf R brake calipers on those larger rotors.
I don't know whether the dimensions or looks of those wheels will work for you, but it is all a balance between the looks that you want and the brakes that you need to match the speed potential of that car. Looking forward to seeing what you end up going with!
Good on you holding to do it right. We are here for the ride. Have a great day dude. And good work
Man, I loved the machine shop segment. Amazing!
having friends on the ready to help nearby makes getting stuff done so much better, you are blessed... Keep it up..
Nice to see your progress, but dont push bearings in from the inner race. Always push from the outer race. Pushing from the inner race can damage the bearing. Just keep the old ones and grind the outer race a little and you have perfect sized tool to push them in.
Love this build. Great to see the Quattro being worked on again!
For poly bushings not to squeak:
Get some lube on them, then one layer of teflon tape, then more lube, works like a charm
It's an exciting build for sure, but seeing that bearing pressed in by its inner race at 3:52 stresses me right out.
These particular bearings are only even held in by the inner race versus outer race. No snap ring or anything. It’s a tapered bearing that is okay to press in by the center. I was skeptical too but I asked some shops first.
I'm glad to hear it - thanks for taking the time to reply!
Good luck with the build, I'm sure it's gonna look great.
It's amazing how much I enjoy your channel given how much I dislike Audis and Honda I4's. :) Keep up the great work!
This car is worth the time,
Didn’t think you’d top the 308 but this one’s so special, patience we shall have.
So pumped for this. Also, watching Brett machine the hubs was absurdly cathartic.
Mike's mind would be blown working on an old peugeot.
The interchangeability of parts from an 88 405 and a 04 406 is hilarious. Even parts from even later models retro fit. Not to mention cross model parts sharing
Regarding 11:30 - only torque the wishbone bolts up when the car is on all four wheels (bearing the cars weight) otherwise you will shred the bushes very quickly if you torque up the bolts any other way.
FYI at 3:50 your loading the inner bearing race against the outer, I believe your only suppose to load the outer race when pressing a bearing in, at least that's what I've been taught ....
Here is a scanning tip. Start the scan in the centre and then move to both sides. That way your scan will be more accurate. And another reason is the way bounding box works. I don't know if you have noticed this, but there is a bounding box and the size of it is determined by resolution you are using. Also, it is constructed when you first hit the start scan button and it has a specific positioning. You can find more information in the manual actually to figure out the size and placement of it if your patient enough :D If you see a straight cut line somewhere in a larger scan, you have reached the limits of that bounding box. Saving the scan as point cloud and meshing in another software would help if you don't want to re-do the whole scan.
You working on an Audi is what I have been waiting for since first chatting with you on SnapRIOT in 2007. LET'S GO!!!!
I have spent a lot of time crawling around on the floor, when we got our lift it took a while to use the lift as intended. While doing brakes, some of us would be crawling around underneath. We would hear someone say “ya know it goes up and down right?”
Sometimes a 20 min job on jack stands is easier than clearing the lift.
Nice press btw!
Shout out to your twinking lights. Love all of your content, Mike... but those lights are hilariously wonderful.
I'm not even an Audi guy, but I must say that I'm always ready for an update on this car. They are just so damn cool.
Chillin in the shop with Mike! Great kind of episode and excellent content, always a treat on Fridays.
I am happy to see this project back in focus. I am a loyal Audi fan boy having had a b5 avant, a b5 s4 avant, a b5 rs4 avant (in England) a q7 and my current SQ8. I look forward to watching this project evolve!👍👍
Nice to see an update on the Urq. Yes, those of us who choose to keep/drive/fix these things are a glutton for punishment because some parts are NLA or extremely difficult to source. That being said, its our choice, but the older Audi's are so fun and unique. Nice to see Dave supplying you with the goods you need!
Love that Arbor Press. Old iron makes the best tools.
So glad to see another video in this build. Great series!
What’s nice about that giant arbor press is it’s fast. I have an old Dake bench top arbor press but it’s only good for a few tons of downward force. A cheap bottle jack press (I think it’s 20 ton?) does a great job with a small footprint, but it takes forever and is very difficult to operate one handed. Your press does it all, and faster.
It's looking great Mike. As for wheel test fit, if you have some good spec 5x114.3 you could always get a few wobble lug bolts to fit them up!
I believe a lot of the VW Golf R owners get a 5x112 to 5x114 adapter that also converts the hubs to studs for a better wheel selection, just a FYI.
If you’re looking for 16” wheels with a 5x112 pattern that will fit, mk5 gti spares will fit over a pretty good size set of brakes. Looking forward to your next video
I just put Powerflex bushings in my car also. I did need to use a bottle jack press to get mine in, but they were hourglass style.
Amazing discipline and dedication 🤯 and patience!!
5x114.3 will work on 5x112 if you use wobble bolts, I do that on my rallycross Beetle to fit my Sparco wheels that I also run on my S550 Mustang (all using the proper centering rings, of course).
Edit:
I should say, it will work if the lug bolt hole tolerance is big enough for the extra diameter bolt circle. In the case of my Sparco wheels, it is just big enough.
Try 90% isopropyl, instead of the 70% isopropyl I’m assuming you used, for your talc / alcohol scan matting mix, for a faster drying time. Also, realize the alcohol will thoroughly screw up the wax.
Also, I came across a FB group, that might be of interest, for inspiration/ reference, on wide bodies.
The group name is, Group 5 “Special Production Cars” 1976-1982
I have also tried adding baby powder to a spray bottle and had it jam up, what i found worked REALLY WELL, was taking that same mixture and shooting it through the 15 dollar purple harbor freight gun. I bottled up the unused concoction so it didnt evaporate out but i got some really good results from it
New level of patience on this one!!
if you are looking for rollers VW Vanagons and Buses are also 5x112 and the newer VW's but the van crowed are often looking to give away 14" steel wheels.
Instead of having to send parts off to be ceracoated you should look into rust bluing. The same thing they do with firearms. Its perfect on things where you don't have tolerances to add a layer of paint. You can buy bluing agent or you can make your own for super cheap
Man, I would love a Nimmo Machine TH-cam channel. I can watch things get machined all day.
Now this is the content I’ve been waiting for since the last episode!! 🎉
I feel you on parts. I have an 03 Audi S6 and an 89 Porsche 944. I would say there are way more parts available for the Porsche. I know when it was 20 years old I could build a new car from Porsche.
Mike a long term solution for maybe look into getting some Gunny wheels they are super skinny support multiple lug patterns and make anything you can bolt one onto a roller. Storage is also great for them.
Its wild to watch this and see how similar in suspension design and structure Audi has maintained over the years. As i was watching the install of the ball joint it clicked its identical to the way my TT is setup design wise.
You dont actually need wheels that fit, just wheels that sit flush with the hubs. You can use all thread through 2 of the bolt holes to clamp the wheel onto take measurements. Done it heaps on different track cars.
Aren't the black Powerflex bushings the 'Race' hardness? I think the purple ones are the street ones.
Trick to take off the bearing race off the hub. Put it on a cordless drill on the chuck. Put the drill on the ground and start spinning hub. Heat the race as the hub spins and it should just fall off when heat heated enough.
Kudos for not shortcutting for an episode. We can wait 🙂
I feel you on parts support. It dwindles everyday.
OZ Superturismo GT are available in 16" and 5x112, they look very similar in style to the B2 oem 14" wheels
Great episode! Well done
@stanceworks try foot powder spray! Works really well for 3d scanning and you don't have to wait for it to dry 👍
Hot tip; if you put the bushings in the oven for about 30mins on max they pour into the socket with ease without the need of a press
Great content!! Love your vids!!
You should consider a mercedes w124 build, no one did that!
W124 M113K build, yes please
Great episode! Well worth my data
Finally an update! 6 months waiting but worth it.
G chassis BMWs use 5x112 wheels, may help with finding some loaners.
Both my e30 and my e46 are fully refurbished with powerflex bushings and they're so easy to install and so nice for the car overall behaviours it would be a crime not to use them...
Can't wait to see this done
That suspension looks great! I had a few Audi 5000s which had front suspension that looked a lot like that the UrQ had front and rear. Very heavy (and I did wheel bearing replacement using a very similar looking arbor press at college).
This Audi is why I subbed just to to keep it a buck.
I just started working on a 1985...any lead on sourcing a gas tank?
using the b5 hubs in the rear will push the wheel out 5-6mm. have it like that on my 4000q. just an fyi
I saw you used a screw with 8.8 at the subframe (at 10:40).. is that like the original was? Often those screws for suspensions are in 10.8 or even 12.9 🤔
bolt, not screw
Keep up the good work, ciao from 🇮🇹
5x112 is also Saab. That said, some of the GTI phone dial Wheels from The Mark 5 and 6 might look kind of cool.
Are you 100% sure your ball joints went on correctly? I know on my A3 they go on the top of the control arm then the bolts up from the bottom, then the nuts on the top
Mike keep it up, I really love this channel.
I remember well when these first came out. They are fun cars and I can’t remember the last one I’ve seen.
There is a wheel offset guide tool that can be 3D printed and bolts to hub and gives you offsets and such
Adjust the top mounts for max caster.
Is that a Dake 4 or 5? I just picked up a 4m which is the size of a 4 without compound leverage.
blooody helll I absolutely love this project !!!!!
I’ll give those front upper shock mounts about 15 minutes before you pull back in and remove them to swap in a stock bushing.
You should do your own powder coat and cerakote. It’s not hard and doesn’t require too much equipment.
90% or higher IPA flashes out way faster and you’ll see if it’s a scannable finish in like 60 seconds at most
Heads up on using a impact on those subframe bolts: unless they are brand new, they like to shear and they are a nightmare to drill out.
Instead of alcohol and baby powder, you can you athletes foot foot spray. Use it on golf clubs to see where the ball strikes and works well for 3d scanners as well.
Reminds me of the one i saw about two years ago. The guy just acquired it in mint condition from the original, first, owner.
Why don’t you drill 5x114 as well before installing thos hubs?
Your cars are just epic. Well done, really enjoy watching.
VW Golf mark V also has 5x112 bolt setup
3:44 Yikes! Don't press on race 😢
I bet that thing would look sick on B5 S4 wheels. Not period correct obviously but just to make it a roller.
Maybe golf wheels might have the right Pcd just a thought.
Looks like you can get some camber adjustment at the front ball joint to LCA interface if necessary.
The sport quattro front end also looks better because of the steeper rake on the windshield. The long wheel base quattro has a less steep rake, and I'm afraid it will look weird with the sport quattro front, without changing the windshield (which is not possible without cutting the car in half)
That’s the reasoning the short wheelbase looks good. Has nothing to do with why the headlights and grilles look better.
@@stanceworksI had doubts, but I guess it will look okay...
This is a LWB quattro with the front sport quattro grilles and lights. Video by Larry Chen
th-cam.com/video/GCVJ8GggI0s/w-d-xo.htmlsi=AOT-4N7XFiAuySrw
I wholeheartedly disagree! As a huge Audi fan, and previous owner of a number of '80s Audis, I never liked the steep rake of the Sport Quattro windshield... the shallow rake looks MUCH better in my eyes. So much so that, if given a choice between the two cars (Sport or Ur), I'd take the Ur every time... even with the huge value difference.
umm - pressing the bearing in with the inner part of the race is a bit of a risk ?
Dry schampo, the key for budget 3d scanning, costs less than 2$ at the local grocerie store, and takes seconds to dry. Try it!
Parts availability I know it’s not the same but I have a diesel Volkswagen TDI that I think is the best car ever. I keep my parts stocked I just buy parts every month I just go shopping through the catalogs you know online and just keep extra parts by whether I need it or not, one day I will need it I’ll have it
Using the inside flange destroy the bearing right ?? @3:52
Peep the pinned comment 🍻
21:53 you can get 5x114 conversion studs
3:48 WHAT are you doing?? I always thought pressing bearings in by the inner race was a giant no-no.
drove friends quattro in 90s for few weeks. loved that car. whish he sold it to me rather than crash it like he did
Ah hell yeah shoutout BrokenQuattros Dave!!!
Most VW cars have same 5x112 patter too.
Always good. Count on it