Just a note on using drill shanks as pin gauges. Measure the shank OD before using them. They tend to run about 1 thousands small from the stated diameter.
Just a tip from a long time lathe operator on that boring bar you can drill and tap that hole in the end for a NPT thread then hook coolant to that so you’re getting coolant tithe insert. I also program in z0 as the face of your jaws so you know if you have z- you’re past the jaws it’s kinda a pain in the but to get use to but has saved me many times
I have been wanting/waiting for fusion 360 examples for the lathe. I have been using the visual programming services (vps) on the haas tl-2. I need to move to cad/cam. Looking forward to more! Your step through the process is very informative.
I appreciate you placing your work out there for others to see. Some things you may consider: Several companies make very nice insert drills that can also be used as bring bars, that way you punch the hole, retract, step over and start boring ops. Clean, simple, no pilot hole. I personally like Mitsubishi for these tools. Regarding "peck" boring, there is a simple trick that doesnt require retract- change your feedrate a few times through the cut, or pause feeding entirely. This breaks the chip without requiring retract. Of course the finish pass ( and 1-2 spring passes afterward) should be done with smooth feed throughout. O-ring grooves should whenever possible have a circular finish. This means they are often better done on the lathe. Thinbit makes some killer face grooving tools for this. Blends- I always try to avoid blends if I can. I think I would have approached the sequence of operations differently- I would have done both ID fillets ( entrance and exit) in the first op, roughed it and finished the entire ID with a single finish pass. Further, I would have stuck the stock out enough to do all the OD profiling in the first op as well, then parted it off .060" long and finished the parted off surface in a second op.
Hey John, to give your boring bar clearance in the predrilled hole just make the inner hight tab to diameter then just tell it the diameter you drilled. Then make the clearance like .005" from inner and clearence .005" from retract. I made this my default. Works pretty good.
Sicktrickintuner yes I kind of figured that. I just wanted to tell him that he won’t learn if he doesn’t get out of his comfort zone. I like John and I think he could do it.
One thing I find helpful for one off lathe parts is drilling in a manual lathe. It saves the setup and programming of multiple drills and I find it to be just as fast.
No insert drills yet? I thought they were a bit overkill until we tried one at my shop they are awesome you could easily drill a 1" hole with one in a slant pro and if you set the tool right you can also do your boring with the same tool.
@@piccilos that's cus he was using shite insert drills, of course they are worth it for a job shop, I've got ones from sandvik upto 65mm diameter and 200mm long and can send it full depth into 15-5ph in a minute or so.
When using drill bit shanks as gauge pins, I suggest measuring them rather than accepting the nominal diameter. Since you are taking random sizes (rather than a nicely graduated set of sizes), it doesn't really matter what size is marked on the bit shank, what counts is what it IS. (Shanks are generally undersized to provide a bit of clearance, and the clearance may vary between manufacturers.)
if you're not using them already, might want to consider using huck towels (blue surgical rags) They are lint free, and you can get them used sold by the pound. Consider getting a cheap washer/dryer off craiglist. Oily rags in the home washer can get the machine kinda nasty.
I wanted to see it cored like with a hole saw. Then your workpiece will be hollowed out as intended, and you would have a nice little puck that you could save for something else.
2nd!!! Woo hooo!!! keep the great videos comming. BTW my father was a mechanical engineer that worked on the Apollo progam, When I was 5, he got me into the astronaut trainers.
John, you have been neglecting us and have neglected lathe ops for a long long time ! Not everything has to be 5 axis aerospace johnny 5 rocket doors !! Lots of good information here as usual !
NYC you can can also from my experience use your tool angle tab in the speeds and feeds area of fusion turning tool path to tell the software what not to cut. I use many 5° angle tools, if you tell fusion what your tool holding and insert geometry is then it mostly can figure out what your not wanting to cut. I used to use the geometry tab to fix this but the newest update seems to correct that issue and let's your tool use it's specified geometry.
I appreciate you doing some work on the 15L. I have one, and I am always looking for alternative ways of doing things. I would love to see how you get your gang tools centered on the work piece. I have a tool post on mine, but I find I always have centering issues when I switch tools.
hey Mr John do you have to dial in your gang tool every time. we also have a slant 15 and have to reset the x on the gang tooling when we tool change thanks al.
There are companies that take old clothes that can't be worn and cuts them into approximately the same size which are used as rags. you basically pay for a service of them bringing rags when you need and taking the old dirty ones and washing them. they also do purpose made rags. I like the recycling of clothes part
Time? There are several reasons. First, the throat of the i.d. dose of calipers is only about ½", so he might not have been able to get them in deep enough to get past the radius. So he transferred the measurement. Second, someone might laugh at you for using a transfer tool in the first place. Instead of a CMM. Using a telescoping gauge is only so accurate, and it's probably as accurate as YOU need it to be, or as accurate as YOUR part needs. Just like you need to use technique to use a telescoping gauge, to produce an accurate result, you also need to with calipers. You can get calipers to be +/- 1 thou accurate. Or maybe he was using the calipers to show the measurement on film. If your machine isn't accurate to 5 tenths, why would you bother measuring down that precise. John knows a TON about metrology, probably more than most of us here, so I'm sure he did it for good reason.
Andrew Delashaw I can agree the guy knows a lot of stuff and he probably does a decent job of bringing people into the field which is what we need in our industry. What Oliver was saying is if you’re using a telescoping gauge you should use mics to check it. It’s literally something every machinist knows. If you’re going to teach people which I think he does a pretty good job, other machinists will let you know if you should change something. He is doing a jet engine part use a mic. Time is literally no excuse when machining just because it’s quicker to use calipers doesn’t mean you should use it. You’re calipers are also not consistently accurate +- .001 that’s if you put the same exact pressure on it every time, which I can say with 100 percent certainty NOONE DOES. not even edge Precision and he’s a true hammer of the field
I saw that, and recalled the video of Adam showing how he measured a telescopic gauge using a mic and how to hold it. Maybe John didn't have the right sized mic? They do only have about an inch range.
That no dragging thing is pretty silly imo, the machine should just turn to Z and then pull out at a diagonal, its doing that regardless of the no drag feature so... better go out, step over and then drag it down the back face until it gets to the corner? Isn't that still dragging? lol... Canned cycles are so silly, handy for R/D style work tho...
I could see how it could aid with chip control when facing up the part (od turning). It's a problem with the Okumas I use while using a roughing cycle.
I know that lathe work is not your thing but, it is easier to program G-code right in the machine for 2 axis lathe work and that whole part could have been done in 1 op
Yes, it seems to have changed. It was nice being able to order just the stock I needed. I can’t find any news of the change on their site, in fact this is the most recent thing from their blog only a few months ago: September 10, 2019 “Xometry Supplies has made two major changes to its product offerings. First, all material and tool orders will now receive free ground shipping. Additionally, there are now over 100,000 SKUs available in the Xometry Supplies online store”
FYI within the last week Xometry got rid of their all orders ship free policy without telling anyone. Now only orders over $50 ship free. Really crappy move by them.
@@chuckphilpot7756 How about don't start a free shipping program and then cancel it 2 months later. If I were a business I never would have been stupid enough to try that. How about you shut up and crawl back in a hole half wit or at least make arguments that make sense.
@@chuckphilpot7756 Or I have no interest in owning and operating a business? Are you trying to insult me by insinuating I can't do something I don't want to do? Really grasping at straws boomer. Go find someone else to troll.
@@14768 Nope, not a crappy move. Businesses change all the time. It may have made sense at first. You're so entitled, that instead of being happy you got 2 months of free shipping, you're whining about them changing it. Hahaha.
I had always been told that using shop rags near your machine is not a good idea. If a paper towel gets caught in a moving part it will just rip and not suck your hand in or something similar. Why would you be using a towel or rag near you’re moving machine? Polishing a piece turning in the lathe for example, that’s one thing that comes to mind
What up Lathe Boy! {\;~> Next thing you'll be getting new theme music, maybe this from the 60's: To everything Turn, turn, turn There is a season Turn, turn, turn And a time to every purpose under Heaven A time to be born, a time to die A time to plant, a time to reap A time to kill, a time to heal A time to laugh, a time to weep To everything Turn, turn, turn There is a season Turn, turn, turn And a time to every purpose under Heaven A time to build up, a time to break down A time to dance, a time to mourn A time to cast away stones A time to gather stones together To everything Turn, turn, turn There is a season Turn, turn, turn And a time to every purpose under Heaven A time of love, a time of hate A time of war, a time of peace A time you may embrace A time to refrain from embracings A time to gain, a time to lose A time to rend, a time to sew A time to love, a time to hate A time of peace, I swear it's not too late
I still don't get how you run your shop without doing lathe work. Do you just refuse all lathe jobs, or do you take on lathe jobs you can get done on the mill and refuse ones you absolutely need a lathe for? I know you have the Tormach, the Haas TL, and the manual lathe, but it seems like they don't get very much use. Seems like you're leaving a lot of money on the table.
How can you say it’s spot on using a digital vernier when you should know you should use a micrometer yo give you the right size I would cal you a cowboy
Shop rags, ugh. I hate them-they leave lint and snag on sharp edges. WypAll X60's or X80's are far better. No lint, no snags, and remarkably durable for a disposable paper product.
The amount of no machinist, "makers," that have flocked to the machining channels over the past year is so sickening. Two people thought the run out visible in the unmachined diameter and face of the part, after you dialed it in, was because of poor technique. So sad.
Any " machinist" that says toe clamps are outdated and not useful is not a machinist and shouldn't be expected to know how to measure a part. Did you see the angle of dangle with his dragging the bore gauge technique. Also. After he posts a video calling toe clamps obsolete he posts a video of CNC crashes that shows most of his crashes are work holding related. Lol. It's like watching a dog change your oil.
Mind blown at the amount on bad practises were used through this video. Dialing in was a big fail. Method fail. Watching you go through a program to make a simple blending process was also a fail. The vibration, also a fail.
Oh no... I just watched it back to try to understand what you thought was bad practice. LOL. You thought the unmachined areas on the diameter and face, that looked like they had a lot of run out, were supposed to be concentric to the spindle. Oh, no. Those are unmachined diameters and have run out for 2 reasons. First, because raw stock is never perfectly round, and the end is a saw cut that isn't perpendicular. Second, because he used a 3 jaw chuck for the first op.
@@xenonram did you try it? The next batch of laundry will still smell like that oil. Plus the metal shavings might not all rinse out of the machine. The babies clothes go in that same machine. No, my wife would definitely kill me.
Just a note on using drill shanks as pin gauges. Measure the shank OD before using them. They tend to run about 1 thousands small from the stated diameter.
Yup generally shanks are smaller by at least a thou under nominal size.
Just a tip from a long time lathe operator on that boring bar you can drill and tap that hole in the end for a NPT thread then hook coolant to that so you’re getting coolant tithe insert. I also program in z0 as the face of your jaws so you know if you have z- you’re past the jaws it’s kinda a pain in the but to get use to but has saved me many times
Oh man you're getting your content right up there now, like watching abom but with CAM!
I have been wanting/waiting for fusion 360 examples for the lathe. I have been using the visual programming services (vps) on the haas tl-2. I need to move to cad/cam. Looking forward to more! Your step through the process is very informative.
I appreciate you placing your work out there for others to see. Some things you may consider:
Several companies make very nice insert drills that can also be used as bring bars, that way you punch the hole, retract, step over and start boring ops. Clean, simple, no pilot hole. I personally like Mitsubishi for these tools.
Regarding "peck" boring, there is a simple trick that doesnt require retract- change your feedrate a few times through the cut, or pause feeding entirely. This breaks the chip without requiring retract. Of course the finish pass ( and 1-2 spring passes afterward) should be done with smooth feed throughout.
O-ring grooves should whenever possible have a circular finish. This means they are often better done on the lathe. Thinbit makes some killer face grooving tools for this.
Blends- I always try to avoid blends if I can. I think I would have approached the sequence of operations differently- I would have done both ID fillets ( entrance and exit) in the first op, roughed it and finished the entire ID with a single finish pass. Further, I would have stuck the stock out enough to do all the OD profiling in the first op as well, then parted it off .060" long and finished the parted off surface in a second op.
Hey John, to give your boring bar clearance in the predrilled hole just make the inner hight tab to diameter then just tell it the diameter you drilled. Then make the clearance like .005" from inner and clearence .005" from retract. I made this my default. Works pretty good.
I think all of your videos are informativ .
Greetings from Germany
I learn so much from these videos. Thanks for sharing. Keep up the great work.
John why didn't you just cut the groove on the lathe in the second operation?
Edge Precision
I’d have to guess, he probably doesn’t have the more expensive grooving tool
Sicktrickintuner yes I kind of figured that. I just wanted to tell him that he won’t learn if he doesn’t get out of his comfort zone. I like John and I think he could do it.
because a real trepanning tool is not in his tool box.
Lack of a face grooving tool is my guess.
Expensive tool that gets little use unless you’re in the market of doing face grooves often.
Why wouldn't a regular grooving tool work? I can't imagine he does not have one as it is the most versatile tool on a cnc lathe.
One thing I find helpful for one off lathe parts is drilling in a manual lathe. It saves the setup and programming of multiple drills and I find it to be just as fast.
Can't you use these tormach cnc lathes like a manual lathe? My diy cnc lathe has two encoder handwheels so I can use it as it were a manual lathe.
Just make a small drill program . You only need to correct: rpm ,feed and dept of hole. Then you can use it whenever needed 😀
You could always trepan or core out the slug. Save the ID chunk for something else, easy to do on a manual lathe
No insert drills yet? I thought they were a bit overkill until we tried one at my shop they are awesome you could easily drill a 1" hole with one in a slant pro and if you set the tool right you can also do your boring with the same tool.
He did a video about insert drills awhile ago, I think they decided its not worth it for a job shop. But I think he does have some for his HAAS mills.
@@piccilos that's cus he was using shite insert drills, of course they are worth it for a job shop, I've got ones from sandvik upto 65mm diameter and 200mm long and can send it full depth into 15-5ph in a minute or so.
It's probably because he hardly does any lathe work.
5:08 I literally jumped up and YELLED "AAAAAHHHH"!
I literally dropped my phone and punched at the air for an estop
I like it a lot, great job. Everybody needs a little CNC...
When using drill bit shanks as gauge pins, I suggest measuring them rather than accepting the nominal diameter. Since you are taking random sizes (rather than a nicely graduated set of sizes), it doesn't really matter what size is marked on the bit shank, what counts is what it IS. (Shanks are generally undersized to provide a bit of clearance, and the clearance may vary between manufacturers.)
2:28 saw that drill move!
They didn't center drill it first 🤔
Congrats John
if you're not using them already, might want to consider using huck towels (blue surgical rags) They are lint free, and you can get them used sold by the pound. Consider getting a cheap washer/dryer off craiglist. Oily rags in the home washer can get the machine kinda nasty.
I wanted to see it cored like with a hole saw. Then your workpiece will be hollowed out as intended, and you would have a nice little puck that you could save for something else.
Double Dare Fan not how it works a lot of the time
Lathes can be frightening! But still beautiful when done right!
John, I was really hoping you'd show the speeds and feeds for the turning AND the boring.
Hei Saunders what if u make a adupter for the internal collant for the boring bar? Probably another WW vid?
2nd!!! Woo hooo!!! keep the great videos comming. BTW my father was a mechanical engineer that worked on the Apollo progam, When I was 5, he got me into the astronaut trainers.
John, you have been neglecting us and have neglected lathe ops for a long long time ! Not everything has to be 5 axis aerospace johnny 5 rocket doors !! Lots of good information here as usual !
NYC you can can also from my experience use your tool angle tab in the speeds and feeds area of fusion turning tool path to tell the software what not to cut. I use many 5° angle tools, if you tell fusion what your tool holding and insert geometry is then it mostly can figure out what your not wanting to cut. I used to use the geometry tab to fix this but the newest update seems to correct that issue and let's your tool use it's specified geometry.
A friend of mine worked at a machine shop here in columbus ohio that had cnc machines where it was just a keypad
Mazak?
@@shadowdsfire mazak.. Just a keypad? What you on about
@@shadowdsfire honestly wish I knew, I dont know anything about CNC machines, but I know how to use a lathe
I appreciate you doing some work on the 15L. I have one, and I am always looking for alternative ways of doing things. I would love to see how you get your gang tools centered on the work piece. I have a tool post on mine, but I find I always have centering issues when I switch tools.
that boring bar probs have a through hole in it so is easy to make a through coolant on it.
hey Mr John do you have to dial in your gang tool every time. we also have a slant 15 and have to reset the x on the gang tooling when we tool change thanks al.
12:50 edge on the id
15:15 edge on the id gone?
use a steel grade insert for boring. will chip easier depending on grade of ally
There are companies that take old clothes that can't be worn and cuts them into approximately the same size which are used as rags. you basically pay for a service of them bringing rags when you need and taking the old dirty ones and washing them. they also do purpose made rags. I like the recycling of clothes part
Just a question, but would it be better to turn a face feature to indicate for when you switch to the 4 jaw.
You not alone on the CNC Lathe pucker factor.
My friend Otis uses a set of calipers just like yours, are they good calipers? I'm still shopping around for my set
whats up with the goofy move at the end of the bore when cutting the id?
Love your videos, but I have to ask.... Who sharpened that 1" drill? It's only cutting on one flute. lol
Will this cut Vibenight 290 steel ?
I felt physical pain when you measured your telescopic bore gauge with your digital calipers might as well measured the bore with it aswel😂😂
Oliver Difford glad someone said it lol
I couldn’t tell if he was trolling us or not. He did teach himself to machine off the internets tho.
Time? There are several reasons. First, the throat of the i.d. dose of calipers is only about ½", so he might not have been able to get them in deep enough to get past the radius. So he transferred the measurement. Second, someone might laugh at you for using a transfer tool in the first place. Instead of a CMM. Using a telescoping gauge is only so accurate, and it's probably as accurate as YOU need it to be, or as accurate as YOUR part needs. Just like you need to use technique to use a telescoping gauge, to produce an accurate result, you also need to with calipers. You can get calipers to be +/- 1 thou accurate. Or maybe he was using the calipers to show the measurement on film. If your machine isn't accurate to 5 tenths, why would you bother measuring down that precise. John knows a TON about metrology, probably more than most of us here, so I'm sure he did it for good reason.
Andrew Delashaw I can agree the guy knows a lot of stuff and he probably does a decent job of bringing people into the field which is what we need in our industry. What Oliver was saying is if you’re using a telescoping gauge you should use mics to check it. It’s literally something every machinist knows. If you’re going to teach people which I think he does a pretty good job, other machinists will let you know if you should change something. He is doing a jet engine part use a mic. Time is literally no excuse when machining just because it’s quicker to use calipers doesn’t mean you should use it. You’re calipers are also not consistently accurate +- .001 that’s if you put the same exact pressure on it every time, which I can say with 100 percent certainty NOONE DOES. not even edge Precision and he’s a true hammer of the field
I saw that, and recalled the video of Adam showing how he measured a telescopic gauge using a mic and how to hold it. Maybe John didn't have the right sized mic? They do only have about an inch range.
Cintas. You can get shop towels and uniforms delivered right to your shop. They will even wash them for you.
Whats NYC stand for?
Wow. This is like rocket science...
That no dragging thing is pretty silly imo, the machine should just turn to Z and then pull out at a diagonal, its doing that regardless of the no drag feature so... better go out, step over and then drag it down the back face until it gets to the corner? Isn't that still dragging? lol...
Canned cycles are so silly, handy for R/D style work tho...
I could see how it could aid with chip control when facing up the part (od turning). It's a problem with the Okumas I use while using a roughing cycle.
can you not use a haimer or something to zero the z?
Looks more like a turbo intake vs a jet engine intake !!
Manuel Maseda its more or less the Same
I know that lathe work is not your thing but, it is easier to program G-code right in the machine for 2 axis lathe work and that whole part could have been done in 1 op
Nice!!
Pecking on a lathe? Do you do that because its a smaller machine? Neither of our lathe guys use pecking on boring ops.
What’s a lathe?
2:40 drill is 2mm out of centre ouchhh
Nice. I would have thought titanium.
No free shipping from xometry....$50 will get you free shipping.
Yes, it seems to have changed. It was nice being able to order just the stock I needed. I can’t find any news of the change on their site, in fact this is the most recent thing from their blog only a few months ago: September 10, 2019
“Xometry Supplies has made two major changes to its product offerings. First, all material and tool orders will now receive free ground shipping. Additionally, there are now over 100,000 SKUs available in the Xometry Supplies online store”
FYI within the last week Xometry got rid of their all orders ship free policy without telling anyone. Now only orders over $50 ship free. Really crappy move by them.
Dustin Graybill why don't you start shipping everything free for them then and stop bitching about not getting handouts.
@@chuckphilpot7756 How about don't start a free shipping program and then cancel it 2 months later. If I were a business I never would have been stupid enough to try that. How about you shut up and crawl back in a hole half wit or at least make arguments that make sense.
Dustin Graybill And You aren't a business because you aren't intelligent or diligent enough to own one.
@@chuckphilpot7756 Or I have no interest in owning and operating a business? Are you trying to insult me by insinuating I can't do something I don't want to do? Really grasping at straws boomer. Go find someone else to troll.
@@14768 Nope, not a crappy move. Businesses change all the time. It may have made sense at first. You're so entitled, that instead of being happy you got 2 months of free shipping, you're whining about them changing it. Hahaha.
I had always been told that using shop rags near your machine is not a good idea. If a paper towel gets caught in a moving part it will just rip and not suck your hand in or something similar. Why would you be using a towel or rag near you’re moving machine? Polishing a piece turning in the lathe for example, that’s one thing that comes to mind
There are a million other needs for rags other than using it in a rotating part.
What up Lathe Boy! {\;~>
Next thing you'll be getting new theme music, maybe this from the 60's:
To everything
Turn, turn, turn
There is a season
Turn, turn, turn
And a time to every purpose under Heaven A time to be born, a time to die
A time to plant, a time to reap
A time to kill, a time to heal
A time to laugh, a time to weep To everything
Turn, turn, turn
There is a season
Turn, turn, turn
And a time to every purpose under Heaven
A time to build up, a time to break down
A time to dance, a time to mourn
A time to cast away stones
A time to gather stones together To everything
Turn, turn, turn
There is a season
Turn, turn, turn
And a time to every purpose under Heaven A time of love, a time of hate
A time of war, a time of peace
A time you may embrace
A time to refrain from embracings
A time to gain, a time to lose
A time to rend, a time to sew
A time to love, a time to hate
A time of peace, I swear it's not too late
Spade drill FTW?
como quisiera que explicaran en español
I still don't get how you run your shop without doing lathe work. Do you just refuse all lathe jobs, or do you take on lathe jobs you can get done on the mill and refuse ones you absolutely need a lathe for? I know you have the Tormach, the Haas TL, and the manual lathe, but it seems like they don't get very much use. Seems like you're leaving a lot of money on the table.
#LUVTHELATHE welcome back 15L our old friend :)
I can see why you hate lathe work, I would hate it aswell if I was using that tormach and programming it offline.
Shorten that boring bar up.
Do you hav mid age fever... Brought HAAS lathe and making lathe videos 🤣🤣
Ether way it went well today and without oops 🤗
That's a tormach
Alex Gregg
He has ordered a haas
Aluminum should be like .015 feed per rev lol. .008 is steel territory
Tormach's SL has about vacuum cleaner levels of horsepower and even less Z axis torque.
Alum .25, steel .015-.02
@@ryanwatkins2089 depends on the drill actually. You try that with a quarter inch drill you will snap it off.
How can you say it’s spot on using a digital vernier when you should know you should use a micrometer yo give you the right size I would cal you a cowboy
Go to the cheapest coin operated laundry mat and use a gallon of bleach and a gallon of orange cleaner from the $1 store to wash shop towels.
I bet they would love that haha 😅
yea like the one where i live, people rock up with their dog/cat pillows sleeping mats and chuck them in real nice
FWIW: It probably would have been more practical to do the initial boring on a manual lathe & switch over to the CNC.
11:03 That is a crappy dialing in job, i'm disappointed a machinist would let that one go
The part was dialed into
Sorry the turned portion is not running true on the face, chuck side. Check again
Yeah, looks like he nailed the concentricity but not the run out.
Why he didnt bore all the way threw and then indicate the bore?
Shop rags, ugh. I hate them-they leave lint and snag on sharp edges. WypAll X60's or X80's are far better. No lint, no snags, and remarkably durable for a disposable paper product.
The amount of no machinist, "makers," that have flocked to the machining channels over the past year is so sickening. Two people thought the run out visible in the unmachined diameter and face of the part, after you dialed it in, was because of poor technique. So sad.
Any " machinist" that says toe clamps are outdated and not useful is not a machinist and shouldn't be expected to know how to measure a part. Did you see the angle of dangle with his dragging the bore gauge technique.
Also. After he posts a video calling toe clamps obsolete he posts a video of CNC crashes that shows most of his crashes are work holding related. Lol. It's like watching a dog change your oil.
I could have had this done in an hour programmed and ran 😂
Mind blown at the amount on bad practises were used through this video.
Dialing in was a big fail. Method fail.
Watching you go through a program to make a simple blending process was also a fail. The vibration, also a fail.
Nah, he dialed it in fine.
Oh no... I just watched it back to try to understand what you thought was bad practice. LOL. You thought the unmachined areas on the diameter and face, that looked like they had a lot of run out, were supposed to be concentric to the spindle. Oh, no. Those are unmachined diameters and have run out for 2 reasons. First, because raw stock is never perfectly round, and the end is a saw cut that isn't perpendicular. Second, because he used a 3 jaw chuck for the first op.
Would you list the time and reasoning for those bad practices. Am not a machinist, but would like to learn. Thanks.
@@BobBeatski71 why sure, after that i will come around to your house and build you a lathe to practise on.
Wash these towels at home, using your home washing machine? My wife would kill me...
Or you could wash the clothes separately. The teaspoon worth of oil on your clothes will be washed out.
@@xenonram did you try it? The next batch of laundry will still smell like that oil. Plus the metal shavings might not all rinse out of the machine. The babies clothes go in that same machine. No, my wife would definitely kill me.