An important note I need to mention: Please don't think I am in any way dogging the old shop that helped me with the original build. I don't blame them for any of the issue we had with the block. Yes, the block got knocked off a work table, but stuff like that can happen. And then they took a lot of time and attention making the repair. Everything thought it was done as well as absolutely possible. So please don't think I'm putting any blame on those guys, we're still friends and hope to work with some of them again in the future. Thanks!
Working with Keith Dorton is the Master Engine Builder and everyone else Top Quality Workmanship they all have an excellent understanding about Engine Building hi 👋 from# YSW respect back to you all 🇨🇦 😊😊😊😊😊😊
It was the decision of the customer to repair it, and it was done well, there was just and undetected and unsuspected main cap alignment issue that if detected, would have been correctable with a material buildup/re-size, and basic line bore & hone on the rear main cap,while torqued down. If foresight was as clear as hindsight, the welder could have ran the bead with the rest of the block submerged in H2O, preventing the damage with an ounce of effort and it would not have been an issue requiring the above mentioned “pound of cure”. I’ve cross drilled dowelled and siamese drilled and tapped a hole for a small tapered plug, half into the dowel end and half into the ear, preventing it from turning or walking its way out, then cross drilled through both the plug and dowel starting through the ear material ending 5/16” into the block, pounding in a drift pin until it bottomed out cutting them off with an angle grinder with a slicer, then after grinding the whole thing flush,used a punch and a low temp oxy-acetylene tip to heat up the iron i peened the block gently to lock in the dowell , and drift pin before re tooling and repeating the process at the other end deliberately cross drilling at different angles along the linear edge. Once it was fixed, I ground a slight bevel along the crack, and patiently stitched the seam with a nickel 99 electrode filler, letting the bead cool to the same temp as the preheated block/ear substrate. Phew! My thumb is numb! Well it held up, and no one noticed, it was on a 454 block, had a little more meat
I always appreciate it when mistakes are shown, talked about. It shows honesty, human fallibility we all have and the desire to educate others so they, hopefully, don't make the same mistake. So, for that, Thank You. That said, awesome build and video.
Good to see a new show, and certainly was not disappointed. I get educated with every episode and I never knew milling magnetised blocks. I love all the nuts and bolts stuff, All the very best from Scotland
I like Vortech blowers and their kits. They work. I was one of the first to buy a Vortech kit serial #00214. It was an A trim for a 5.0 Mustang back in 1993. Later I had it upgraded to an S trim and 10 rib pulleys. This head unit had straight cut gears and it was noisy. Back then few people heard of centrifugal blowers as the only other one was a Paxton SN89 which could not compare to a Vortech. I enjoyed the video.
5psi is all?!? HOLY SHIIIATTTT! I was wondering why only 600ish HP when NA 427's can do that.... With 10psi, that thing should have went 1000hp+ (EASY)!!
@@KingJT80 383 did it with 10PSI... Don't know why they couldn't do it with a lot more cubes on this engine... th-cam.com/video/1o93Myy2CP0/w-d-xo.html
You're a man after my own heart 😁 My first car was a 1978 Camaro (Type LT) This is my kind of engine build.....a big cube small block! This combo is nice on its own, but the Vortech is the cherry on top. An extra 160 hp from 5.5 psi of boost is an excellent number!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster Please keep making your videos beacuse they are really interesting and important to understand, and say Thank you kindly to Keith Dorton and his Son you Rock 🎸 with this information Videos hi 👋 from # YSW 🇨🇦 where I follow you 💯 from .
@@TheHorsepowerMonster i love watching your TH-cam videos and only one request more videos with Keith Dorton & Son and your own videos as well Thank you kindly for responding back to me in # YSW 🇨🇦 .
I have a Dart SHP 400 block and Scat forged 4" crank. Darp Pro 1 215 heads. Howards cam, FAST XFI efi. I have an Edelbrock Victor E single plane high rise intake. The exhaust is a set of Schoenfeld headers with 2-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. The engine is making 5549hp at 6400 rpm and 545lbft of torque. This is in my 1982 Corvette. I have a 4L80E transmission with a 3600 rpm stall converter. The transmission is controlled with a US-Shift TCU. This setup is a real tire ripper.
For real...there is ZERO chance I would have accepted that welded up pos...the way I look at it, I didn't bring a broken block to the shop, so the shop sure as hell isn't going to return to me a broken block...it sucks for them but they'd be buying me a NEW replacement...maybe they'll be more careful next time.
Your channel is one of the first I ever subscribed too, and due largely in part to the build series you ran on this engine years ago. It used to kill me having to wait for the next episode to come out in that series. I always wondered why I never saw it go in the Camaro, and now I know. Excellent work, and that thing is a Monster! I now have hope to seeing it under the hood of the Camaro. Really appreciate the quality, and highly technical videos you produce. Thanks
You can manage that slip buy installing one of those grip or traction pulleys on the blower I noticed on my 95 mustang it helped with belt slip substantially plus the amount of tension can be dropped on the blower belt tensioner
Yes, vortech offers “high traction” pulleys on their website which have a textured surface. Note the sizes are slightly different (2.93” is a 3”, etc). I didn’t see much different between normal and high traction, but have a much shorter belt in my setup. The belt on that 427 looks way too long that a second pulley is needed.
I figure look is atleast 8 or 9 tenths of it. young boy I sold my other car to he said when was I going to take my other one to the track I said probably not going to nowadays he said why not I said I'll tell you a secret as long as she's is setting in the garage she's not costing to much an as long as I don't I've got the fastest car around an know one can tell me any different 🏁😎
I'm surprised you would even consider an Si trim blower on that motor. A Ti trim would be my absolute minimum choice with a Ysi being my prefered option even on a street combo. Also, you may look into fitting a spring loaded belt tensioner onto the bracket to help with belt slip. I ran a YSi up to about 18 psi with a 10 rib belt on an old 383 LT1 before slip became an issue. The car made 800 whp back in the early 2000's.
Agreed! Running a 10 rib with a spring loaded tensioner with a ProCharger. Making 16 PSI with no belt slip and 817 WHP on a 400sbc. Brodix aluminum block and these same DS225 heads
Really glad you got the engine fixed and back together. Maybe I'm getting old but I have no use for turbos or blowers, with the complexity and heat. The NA 427 is plenty for me.
After watching those boosted pulls, it's easy to see why the Vortech V2 on my wife's Mustang shreds belts like crazy! I keep several spares in the trunk!
Thanks for showing all the mix-ups and screwups, I bet that's how it really goes for most of us. Having to re-do an engine you already paid someone to do once is a real kick in the nads and a big hit to the wallet. Reminds me of when a dyno operator slammed the front-end of my pristine Buick GN into the dyno cooling fans, a 2-day dyno tune turned into a 14 month stay in body shop prison. It has cost me quite a bit to recover the expenses from that fiasco. Everyone I'm sure has similar stories of heartache with their hot rod. Like you I try and do everything myself but sometimes you have to turn it over to what you hope is a pro, in your case an engine builder, in mine a FAST XFI turner.
I had build a 1981 Corvette some years back. I bought the car for about $8,000 and it had some miles but was in good shape. Then i found a rod knocking. I picked up a late 80s TPIS engine and had it good over, new cam and valve train, Vortech SC and Headers, then a 3.36 gear with a 700R4 Tranny. I added a boost gauge on the A Pillar and the whistle of the blower and that gage were the only clues. My License plate was C3SLPR and it was a Mustang Eater! I miss that thing. It was so clean and unassuming until lit it up and it would fry the tires and the clutch in 2nd would smell !!!!!!
a spring loaded tensioner set up to be at max torsional load at indicator limit marks on the tensioner. gm & ford make some very high spring rate tensioners. also try to wrap the belt as far around the driven pulley as you can.
I really like keeping a small block. Every dyno video I've ever watched has the supercharger belt slip in that same rpm range. Seems vortech would've cured that by now with a different design
Wow! Love everything about this video, the topic, your humor, narration, and honesty when you F'd something up... I need to implement everything here to my channel, yes, including the Vortech. ha, ha. I subbed to learn from you. Keep it up!
Pretty sure the Engine belt could be routed wrong and probably needed to wrap around the crank pulley in a different configuration. Hence the longer belt, but I could be totally wrong. Just a thought
Nice video! I would have checked the length of the oil pump stud or bolt as well (if you hadn't on initial assembly) to ensure it didn't put pressure on rear main bearing.
Do extra thick head gaskets, 0.040" thicker than stock, throw off the rest of the mating surfaces geometry, mainly the intake to heads angle? I only ask because I was told it does, but this video glossed over it like it is no problem.
A little bit. The intake to cylinder head bolt holes were OK, but where I noticed it most was the blower bracket that bolted to both the block and the side of the cylinder head. It was a little tight, so you had to start all the bolts loose and then tighten.
Hey buddy, If you can get the tension pulley up close to the blower pulley that may do it for no worse than it was. By moving it up closer, and you could also go with a slightly smaller in diameter and get it right up in close. The closer the tension pulley is, the more surface of the belt is on the pulley, for maximum pull power, the belt needs to bite on as much surface as possible! I'd bet it will make that go away except for certain factors. Are you at altitude? If so the blower isn't working very hard, the air is thin, down here at seal level where I live, the air is thick plus it's humid as hell, it'd be more apt to slip.
I have zero experience on boosted gasoline engines.. however if you went through the trouble to add a intercooler would that help .I believe that the fuel injection system you have helps cool the intake charge..some what ..Thanks for the videos
I have pulled apart engines that had different sizes in the journals required two sets of bearings , the crank ended up ,.020" .030", didn't know they made bearings in . 030" under
I’m sure your going to have to do something with the converter, make sure it’s spaced correctly! It’s normally the biggest cause of thrust damage! Hopefully you don’t have any crank snout problems 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Best of luck 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!
Funny about the glove.😂 Me too lol. Left palm bad cut but to lazy for trip to hospital 🏥. So I one gloved it at work for 2 weeks. Took a good month for it to fully heal 😢. Lol
This. This cam is falling off by 6000. It needs more cam, you should be able to make 600 NA with the heads and displacement that you have. Absolute minimum 230 degrees at .050. With 427 cubes the idle will be a lot more reasonable than it would be on a 350.
I feel like a smaller mild 350 would displace far less air and if the kit is configured in this manner (the pulleys size) the pressure will increase in the intake(bewst) and make the belt slip worse. Less pressure more flow>more pressure less flow. I think that setup will slip at the top on just about any engine unless it just doesn’t go past 5500😮 I’m not hating I love sc but you have to have belt wrap like maybe if it had a tension or idler on the bottom.
I've experienced far too much belt slippage on blown serpentine drive setups. Wider belts and larger pulleys do help, but most bolt on kits don't have the development in terms of belt wrap that a factory setup would have.
Yes, just like this, give me the HP and the driveability with air-conditioning and power steering!! In a 87 Chevy Silverado that will walk the dog on the mustangs and coverett!! I'm thinking 383 or 388 stroker or even a 400 stroker, I love the chop of these engines!! Blower or charged is fine too!!
i believe cold air intakes need to be routed to keep as much heat as possible away from the main air inlet aka filter but also the tube to the throttle body.dose no good to have an egine hot tube carrying your cold air.going to have custom hood scoop built for my o5 tahoe to help the cold air intake stay cold
I have been around engines all my life.Taking into consideration how much an empty block weighs, how in the world did someone KNOCK it off of the bench ? I am curious.
It's too bad that to get the HP of a 302 FORD 4 valve using an SBC, it has to be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inches. I can't wait to see how much power the BIG SBC can make with a blower. WOW! Love your show.
Funny the supercharger kit doesn't use a spring tensioner to keep the belt tight. I can see the return side of the belt getting loose causing the slip. A spring tensioner would fix that.
Mistakes can happen, I get that, but certain things can also be avoided by paying closer attention to how things fit as they are being assembled. For instance: How about that oil pan and gasket made for a driver side dipstick when that block is for the passenger side?
@TheHorsepowerMonster - Did you end up opening the piston ring gaps for this blower, or no since you're only pushing 5lbs of boost. Pretty tame boost levels, even on a stock ring gap.
Can the belt slippage be mitigated with more belt deflection? This is assuming it's worth it and you'd want to machine something else to force it to work...
Yeah I'm hearin' ya - there's always something that is NQR. Why can't they sort this stuff out? You know the moment I saw that long unsupported section of belt on the non drive side I thought this is going to be trouble. Granted I am a mechanic so I tend to notice things I know are likely to be problematic, but this sort of thing is disappointing I reckon because it is so time consuming to rectify. Considering the effort they have in the belt and drive not to mention the price of the kit, why can't they just do it right once instead of leaving it to the consumer to grumble? It's not good for their reputation, the consumer gets annoyed - it's all just so, well, um, I don't know, unnecessary. I'd happily sacrifice 15hp if the belt didn't whip like this. It's not good enough!
Bandaids don't work. Newskin doesn't work. Duct tape doesn't work. After disinfecting a small cut, pat dry and set a small piece of paper towel over the wound. Drops of CA glue will keep the wound closed. I've done this for 40 years, and never got an infection. It always works.
You would probably Lose the blower slip if you put a pulley on the opposing side of the Pro charger... I was watching the belt it was going insane on that side
An important note I need to mention: Please don't think I am in any way dogging the old shop that helped me with the original build. I don't blame them for any of the issue we had with the block. Yes, the block got knocked off a work table, but stuff like that can happen. And then they took a lot of time and attention making the repair. Everything thought it was done as well as absolutely possible. So please don't think I'm putting any blame on those guys, we're still friends and hope to work with some of them again in the future. Thanks!
Working with Keith Dorton is the Master Engine Builder and everyone else Top Quality Workmanship they all have an excellent understanding about Engine Building hi 👋 from# YSW respect back to you all 🇨🇦 😊😊😊😊😊😊
I would think that they would have replaced the block
It was the decision of the customer to repair it, and it was done well, there was just and undetected and unsuspected main cap alignment issue that if detected, would have been correctable with a material buildup/re-size, and basic line bore & hone on the rear main cap,while torqued down. If foresight was as clear as hindsight, the welder could have ran the bead with the rest of the block submerged in H2O, preventing the damage with an ounce of effort and it would not have been an issue requiring the above mentioned “pound of cure”. I’ve cross drilled dowelled and siamese drilled and tapped a hole for a small tapered plug, half into the dowel end and half into the ear, preventing it from turning or walking its way out, then cross drilled through both the plug and dowel starting through the ear material ending 5/16” into the block, pounding in a drift pin until it bottomed out cutting them off with an angle grinder with a slicer, then after grinding the whole thing flush,used a punch and a low temp oxy-acetylene tip to heat up the iron i peened the block gently to lock in the dowell , and drift pin before re tooling and repeating the process at the other end deliberately cross drilling at different angles along the linear edge. Once it was fixed, I ground a slight bevel along the crack, and patiently stitched the seam with a nickel 99 electrode filler, letting the bead cool to the same temp as the preheated block/ear substrate. Phew! My thumb is numb! Well it held up, and no one noticed, it was on a 454 block, had a little more meat
The old shop absolutely 💯 % would have provided me a Factory Freash New Block !!!!
I bet the guy that dropped it felt terrible! Glad the repair worked great!
I always appreciate it when mistakes are shown, talked about. It shows honesty, human fallibility we all have and the desire to educate others so they, hopefully, don't make the same mistake. So, for that, Thank You.
That said, awesome build and video.
Much respect to everyone responsible for doing all the block work.
I like how you're keeping it SBC powered.
America!!!
Good to see a new show, and certainly was not disappointed. I get educated with every episode and I never knew milling magnetised blocks. I love all the nuts and bolts stuff, All the very best from Scotland
Main caps warping from heat is another great tip Iv never heard before.
I would redrill the bracket and move the idler further under the blower so you could get more wrap on the pulley. Bound to help with the slip😊
The blowers won't stand the rpm for very long.
@@Vintageguy73 bigger blower pulley? Less rpm’s on the blower. Just move the power band out a little.
You want slip: helps the engine from blowing up.
I like Vortech blowers and their kits. They work.
I was one of the first to buy a Vortech kit serial #00214. It was an A trim for a 5.0 Mustang back in 1993.
Later I had it upgraded to an S trim and 10 rib pulleys. This head unit had straight cut gears and it was noisy.
Back then few people heard of centrifugal blowers as the only other one was a Paxton SN89 which could not compare to a Vortech.
I enjoyed the video.
Man top of the line engine masters at work!!
I wish I could afford those guys to do my machine shop work
Those are some great dyno numbers, especially at just 5 psi of boost. Definitely a monster engine. Great video as always. ✌😁
5psi is all?!?
HOLY SHIIIATTTT!
I was wondering why only 600ish HP when NA 427's can do that....
With 10psi, that thing should have went 1000hp+ (EASY)!!
@@ICONBADGTA this engine and a V7 ysi kit they sell..it'll do it with more cam
@@KingJT80 383 did it with 10PSI... Don't know why they couldn't do it with a lot more cubes on this engine... th-cam.com/video/1o93Myy2CP0/w-d-xo.html
So excited to see a new build video on this channel. I've been really missing them. Awesome video, brother 👏 👏 👏
Thanks!
Wow! That belt was waving more than the American flag on the 4th of July!
Still a great build and a fun watch! Thanks for the content!!!🙏🙏
You're a man after my own heart 😁 My first car was a 1978 Camaro (Type LT)
This is my kind of engine build.....a big cube small block! This combo is nice on its own, but the Vortech is the cherry on top. An extra 160 hp from 5.5 psi of boost is an excellent number!
Thanks!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster Please keep making your videos beacuse they are really interesting and important to understand, and say Thank you kindly to Keith Dorton and his Son you Rock 🎸 with this information Videos hi 👋 from # YSW 🇨🇦 where I follow you 💯 from .
@@domenicomonteleone3055 Thanks! And thanks for watching!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster i love watching your TH-cam videos and only one request more videos with Keith Dorton & Son and your own videos as well Thank you kindly for responding back to me in # YSW 🇨🇦 .
I have a Dart SHP 400 block and Scat forged 4" crank. Darp Pro 1 215 heads. Howards cam, FAST XFI efi. I have an Edelbrock Victor E single plane high rise intake.
The exhaust is a set of Schoenfeld headers with 2-3/4" primaries and 3" collectors. The engine is making 5549hp at 6400 rpm and 545lbft of torque.
This is in my 1982 Corvette. I have a 4L80E transmission with a 3600 rpm stall converter. The transmission is controlled with a US-Shift TCU.
This setup is a real tire ripper.
That block hitting the ground had to have been a hell of an “oh-shit” moment.
For real...there is ZERO chance I would have accepted that welded up pos...the way I look at it, I didn't bring a broken block to the shop, so the shop sure as hell isn't going to return to me a broken block...it sucks for them but they'd be buying me a NEW replacement...maybe they'll be more careful next time.
lool happened to me oce with engine head
Exactly my thoughts
Your channel is one of the first I ever subscribed too, and due largely in part to the build series you ran on this engine years ago. It used to kill me having to wait for the next episode to come out in that series. I always wondered why I never saw it go in the Camaro, and now I know. Excellent work, and that thing is a Monster! I now have hope to seeing it under the hood of the Camaro. Really appreciate the quality, and highly technical videos you produce. Thanks
Thanks for the kind words! And thanks for watching!
What a great off road motor. Torque, torque,torque.
Awesome build guys! beautiful SBC with the Votec boost. Oh yeah I hear the belt squeal. That belt might need another idler pulley.
You can manage that slip buy installing one of those grip or traction pulleys on the blower I noticed on my 95 mustang it helped with belt slip substantially plus the amount of tension can be dropped on the blower belt tensioner
You are right. Not a bad idea
Yes, vortech offers “high traction” pulleys on their website which have a textured surface. Note the sizes are slightly different (2.93” is a 3”, etc).
I didn’t see much different between normal and high traction, but have a much shorter belt in my setup. The belt on that 427 looks way too long that a second pulley is needed.
I could watch a skilled machinist all day.
I like that the block is painted red, that's good for 20HP. 😎
Exactly!
@@TheHorsepowerMonster if it was painted ( BLUE ) it would gain 100 hp 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 👍👍🏆🙏😁
that's always the color I painted my builds but all these years that I had a secret with the HP thanks guys for letting me know I wasn't gifted 😢
I figure look is atleast 8 or 9 tenths of it. young boy I sold my other car to he said when was I going to take my other one to the track I said probably not going to nowadays he said why not I said I'll tell you a secret as long as she's is setting in the garage she's not costing to much an as long as I don't I've got the fastest car around an know one can tell me any different 🏁😎
I'm surprised you would even consider an Si trim blower on that motor. A Ti trim would be my absolute minimum choice with a Ysi being my prefered option even on a street combo.
Also, you may look into fitting a spring loaded belt tensioner onto the bracket to help with belt slip. I ran a YSi up to about 18 psi with a 10 rib belt on an old 383 LT1 before slip became an issue. The car made 800 whp back in the early 2000's.
Agreed! Running a 10 rib with a spring loaded tensioner with a ProCharger. Making 16 PSI with no belt slip and 817 WHP on a 400sbc. Brodix aluminum block and these same DS225 heads
Really glad you got the engine fixed and back together. Maybe I'm getting old but I have no use for turbos or blowers, with the complexity and heat. The NA 427 is plenty for me.
After watching those boosted pulls, it's easy to see why the Vortech V2 on my wife's Mustang shreds belts like crazy! I keep several spares in the trunk!
I saw a tip in a old hot rod magazine years ago. About using hair spray to stop belt slippage and squealing.
Thanks for showing all the mix-ups and screwups, I bet that's how it really goes for most of us. Having to re-do an engine you already paid someone to do once is a real kick in the nads and a big hit to the wallet. Reminds me of when a dyno operator slammed the front-end of my pristine Buick GN into the dyno cooling fans, a 2-day dyno tune turned into a 14 month stay in body shop prison. It has cost me quite a bit to recover the expenses from that fiasco. Everyone I'm sure has similar stories of heartache with their hot rod. Like you I try and do everything myself but sometimes you have to turn it over to what you hope is a pro, in your case an engine builder, in mine a FAST XFI turner.
Learned something from this video. I didn't know a crank could be magnetized.
I spray some old fashioned belt dressing on my Vortec V-7 and it really helps. Like stick-um on a wide receivers hands.
Belt slippage is cause there is not enough wrap around on the belt. Install an idler on the bottom side and slip won’t be as bad.
You are so good at detail. I would trust you with any build! Great job!
Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!
I had build a 1981 Corvette some years back. I bought the car for about $8,000 and it had some miles but was in good shape. Then i found a rod knocking. I picked up a late 80s TPIS engine and had it good over, new cam and valve train, Vortech SC and Headers, then a 3.36 gear with a 700R4 Tranny. I added a boost gauge on the A Pillar and the whistle of the blower and that gage were the only clues. My License plate was C3SLPR and it was a Mustang Eater! I miss that thing. It was so clean and unassuming until lit it up and it would fry the tires and the clutch in 2nd would smell !!!!!!
I can only imagine how that crank feels at the front with that bigass pulley hanging off
Thats a procharger thing
Thats why there are sbc cranks made of timken bearing steel that have bbc snouts on them
a spring loaded tensioner set up to be at max torsional load at indicator limit marks on the tensioner. gm & ford make some very high spring rate tensioners. also try to wrap the belt as far around the driven pulley as you can.
I really like keeping a small block. Every dyno video I've ever watched has the supercharger belt slip in that same rpm range. Seems vortech would've cured that by now with a different design
Wow! Love everything about this video, the topic, your humor, narration, and honesty when you F'd something up... I need to implement everything here to my channel, yes, including the Vortech. ha, ha. I subbed to learn from you. Keep it up!
Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!
Nice! I’ve got a ‘78 z28 that would really benefit from that monster!
Keith is the MAN....
You are correct!
Pretty sure the Engine belt could be routed wrong and probably needed to wrap around the crank pulley in a different configuration. Hence the longer belt, but I could be totally wrong. Just a thought
Nice video! I would have checked the length of the oil pump stud or bolt as well (if you hadn't on initial assembly) to ensure it didn't put pressure on rear main bearing.
I was probably more excited about this video then a grown man should've been
Can you build a 400 sbc 427 stroker with a gen 1 (1970ish) block?
Had a vortex on 302ford,was great as long as belt stayed on!
It’s always a good day when the channel post a vid 💯made my whole week
You guys should do another video with Griptec pulleys.
Do extra thick head gaskets, 0.040" thicker than stock, throw off the rest of the mating surfaces geometry, mainly the intake to heads angle? I only ask because I was told it does, but this video glossed over it like it is no problem.
A little bit. The intake to cylinder head bolt holes were OK, but where I noticed it most was the blower bracket that bolted to both the block and the side of the cylinder head. It was a little tight, so you had to start all the bolts loose and then tighten.
i was hoping you keep experimenting with that 427 small block, like try a different cam to bring the peak to a lower rpm, to avoid the belt slip.
Hey buddy, If you can get the tension pulley up close to the blower pulley that may do it for no worse than it was. By moving it up closer, and you could also go with a slightly smaller in diameter and get it right up in close. The closer the tension pulley is, the more surface of the belt is on the pulley, for maximum pull power, the belt needs to bite on as much surface as possible! I'd bet it will make that go away except for certain factors. Are you at altitude? If so the blower isn't working very hard, the air is thin, down here at seal level where I live, the air is thick plus it's humid as hell, it'd be more apt to slip.
I have zero experience on boosted gasoline engines.. however if you went through the trouble to add a intercooler would that help
.I believe that the fuel injection system you have helps cool the intake charge..some what ..Thanks for the videos
Thanks great job I've been looking at a vortec blower for a gen 3 vortec 6.0 nice to see there worth the expense
Bondery layer air is a problem with flat belts. Need to drill the pulleys so the air has somewhere to go
I have pulled apart engines that had different sizes in the journals required two sets of bearings , the crank ended up ,.020"
.030", didn't know they made bearings in
. 030" under
I’m sure your going to have to do something with the converter, make sure it’s spaced correctly! It’s normally the biggest cause of thrust damage! Hopefully you don’t have any crank snout problems 🙄🙄🙄🙄! Best of luck 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻!
Funny about the glove.😂 Me too lol. Left palm bad cut but to lazy for trip to hospital 🏥. So I one gloved it at work for 2 weeks. Took a good month for it to fully heal 😢. Lol
Good to see you using Foggit to protect your engine.
I wouldn't have let them weld the block, replacement should have been on them!
Super glue is great where stitches and bandaid are not practical 🤘
Stripping Aluminum threads, let me see, oh yeah I remember Caddy HT4100 mains. Stripped right out. Two sets of helicoils per main bolt hole. Yay!
Thank God their is real engineers left,awesome.
Big cube Small Blocks , have no issue with a bigger duration. 252/263 @50 in mine and it idles and drives perfectly
This.
This cam is falling off by 6000. It needs more cam, you should be able to make 600 NA with the heads and displacement that you have. Absolute minimum 230 degrees at .050. With 427 cubes the idle will be a lot more reasonable than it would be on a 350.
@@JimBronson 230 is nothing would ya use 230 in a BB ? Nope so why use it in a big cube sb ? 250 area is a good area .. I make 642 Hp and 594 Tq
@@YAHNewsNetwork I did say that it was the absolute minimum, but yeah, on a big cubes small block I would go more.
Whats it like hanging out with one of the gods of horsepower?? It must be awesome!!!
Good diagnosis on the rear main.!
As a machinist,indicating things in is way more important than the actual cutting..
I feel like a smaller mild 350 would displace far less air and if the kit is configured in this manner (the pulleys size) the pressure will increase in the intake(bewst) and make the belt slip worse. Less pressure more flow>more pressure less flow. I think that setup will slip at the top on just about any engine unless it just doesn’t go past 5500😮 I’m not hating I love sc but you have to have belt wrap like maybe if it had a tension or idler on the bottom.
Nice work. You gotta post more videos on the corvette
I live in the boondocks in Alabama there one race car builder around here and he always says "there ant nothing time and money can't fix"
Why not use a new main Cap
Huge bore for stock block wow....love adding 1/2" stroke too. 👍
I've experienced far too much belt slippage on blown serpentine drive setups. Wider belts and larger pulleys do help, but most bolt on kits don't have the development in terms of belt wrap that a factory setup would have.
Cogged belt upgrade seems like a must have item
Can you remove one of the spark plugs and put a computer sensor to record high and low pressure in the cylinder at different speeds?
Yes, just like this, give me the HP and the driveability with air-conditioning and power steering!! In a 87 Chevy Silverado that will walk the dog on the mustangs and coverett!! I'm thinking 383 or 388 stroker or even a 400 stroker, I love the chop of these engines!! Blower or charged is fine too!!
i believe cold air intakes need to be routed to keep as much heat as possible away from the main air inlet aka filter but also the tube to the throttle body.dose no good to have an egine hot tube carrying your cold air.going to have custom hood scoop built for my o5 tahoe to help the cold air intake stay cold
You won't max it out, YOU WONT YOU WONT dang you did it.
I really wish Vortech would use Spring Loaded OEM style belt tensioners !!
I have been around engines all my life.Taking into consideration how much an empty block weighs, how in the world did someone KNOCK it off of the bench ? I am curious.
finally another build video!
Yeah, I’ve been pretty slow. Thanks for watching!
It's too bad that to get the HP of a 302 FORD 4 valve using an SBC, it has to be bored and stroked to 427 cubic inches. I can't wait to see how much power the BIG SBC can make with a blower. WOW! Love your show.
Lol😂😂😂
I love this program !!!!!!!!
Hey thanks! And thanks for watching!
Thank you for your knowledge and videos USA 🇺🇸 USA 🇺🇸
Funny the supercharger kit doesn't use a spring tensioner to keep the belt tight. I can see the return side of the belt getting loose causing the slip. A spring tensioner would fix that.
COOL BUILD , I LIKE YOUR STYLE .
Thanks!
Awesome build!
Much thanks! And thanks for watching!
Mistakes can happen, I get that, but certain things can also be avoided by paying closer attention to how things fit as they are being assembled. For instance: How about that oil pan and gasket made for a driver side dipstick when that block is for the passenger side?
The oil pan gasket has kickouts on both sides.
I wish I could get my International 392 V8 rebuilt to the max.
Every video of Vortech blowers belt slip has been a real issue. The old Twin Vee belts may be better. If set up properly they never slip.
Do magnetic and all that is discharge when you balanced and blueprinted... Would you should always do after do any machine work on cranks
@TheHorsepowerMonster - Did you end up opening the piston ring gaps for this blower, or no since you're only pushing 5lbs of boost. Pretty tame boost levels, even on a stock ring gap.
THANK YOU FOR NOT SAYING "WHAT'S UP EVERYBODY?"
Nice build. I want it.
Cool repair work, showed some stuff im sure most of us have never even thoight of.
Can the belt slippage be mitigated with more belt deflection? This is assuming it's worth it and you'd want to machine something else to force it to work...
Yeah I'm hearin' ya - there's always something that is NQR. Why can't they sort this stuff out? You know the moment I saw that long unsupported section of belt on the non drive side I thought this is going to be trouble.
Granted I am a mechanic so I tend to notice things I know are likely to be problematic, but this sort of thing is disappointing I reckon because it is so time consuming to rectify. Considering the effort they have in the belt and drive not to mention the price of the kit, why can't they just do it right once instead of leaving it to the consumer to grumble? It's not good for their reputation, the consumer gets annoyed - it's all just so, well, um, I don't know, unnecessary. I'd happily sacrifice 15hp if the belt didn't whip like this. It's not good enough!
Hear that belt shrieking in protest!
Bandaids don't work.
Newskin doesn't work.
Duct tape doesn't work.
After disinfecting a small cut, pat dry and set a small piece of paper towel over the wound.
Drops of CA glue will keep the wound closed. I've done this for 40 years, and never got an infection. It always works.
CA glue???
Very nicely done.
Love it.
Super project and outstanding filming
Thanks very much! And thanks for watching!
You would probably Lose the blower slip if you put a pulley on the opposing side of the Pro charger... I was watching the belt it was going insane on that side
But what will you do about the belt slippage?
That machine shop was scary clean. I thought I smelled a cherry pie baking.
Was that belt slip @24:16? Cool vid Guys!
great video that engine will be a little screamer...i wonder what this engine would make with twin turbo in a 77 nova....
Thanks!
That small block will keep the ears pinned on you’re Camaro 😤