Bonatti Ghigo Grand Capucin route Chamonix Mont Blanc mountain climbing mountaineering

July 2011, mountaineering, climbing, mountain... Bonatti Ghigo route, Grand Capucin... Massive Chamonix Mont-Blanc... Thanks to Nicolas Potard (Nicolas does the whole free route), Simon Paris and Raphaël Bonnet... Departure from the Aiguille du Midi via the Glacier du Géant and the Combe Maudite.
- 350 meter route sustained in 7a+ max for the 40 meter wall.
- First ascent by Walter Bonatti (21) and Luciano Ghigo from July 20 to 23, 1951.
- VIDEO The 40-meter Wall in full free: • Grand Capucin Voie Bon...
- VIDEO interview Thierry Renault Grand Capucin: • Le Grand Capucin Voie ...
- VIDEO interview Jean-Claude Droyer Grand Capuchin: • Le Grand Capucin voie ...
- PLAYLIST Big Capuchin: • Grand Capucin Petit Ca...
00:00 Aiguille du Midi, sunset and approach.
01:20 Back up the corridor.
01:55 Sunrise and crossing towards the attack.
02:50 L1, 6a+.
03:30 L2, 6a+.
04:05 L3, 6b+.
05:30 L4, 6b+.
06:35 L5, 6b+, nice crossing under the roof.
07:46 L6, 6b, first Bonatti bivouac.
08:40 L7, 6b.
09:07 L8, 6b+, traverse to the right.
10:30 L9, 7a+, the 40m free wall by Nico Potard.
12:45 L10, 6a, second Bonatti bivouac.
13:43 L11, 6b.
14:03 L12, 6c, S-crack.
15:23 L13, the crack at 7a.
16:33 L14, 6c, the small roof.
17:08 L15, 6c.
6:20 p.m. L16, 6a, passage on the north face.
6:54 p.m. L17, 5c on the north face.
19:45 L18, 5c and summit.
- bitcoin support for tvmountain: bc1q2t23e36c8l6h5kf4ekng4qllpwfyreznzmxgg9
- tvmountain youtube subscription: / @tvmountain
- Support tvmountain with Tipee: fr.tipeee.com/tvmountain
- tvmountain: www.tvmountain.com
- Topo Camp To Camp: www.camptocamp.org/routes/578...
#climbing #rock #mountain #alpinism #grandcapucin #chamonix #courmayeur #voiebonattighigo #walterbonatti #climbingfree #granite #crack #montblanc
Significant geographical points.
- Aiguille du Midi, 3848 meters.
- Combe Maudite, 3300 meters.
- Grand Capuchin, 3838 meters.
History (fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_C...)
For decades, the succession of multiple small overhangs present almost everywhere on the wall contributed to the reputation of inaccessibility of this wall.
The summit itself was first climbed from its western side in 1924 by Enrico Augusto, Adolphe Rey, Henri Rey and Louis Lanier, using a pole and hooks.
It will then be necessary to wait 25 years for Walter Bonatti to decide to tackle the impressive East face. Having found a Monza teammate, Camillo Barzaghi, both began the ascent on July 24, 1950 but, surprised by a storm in the first pitches, they were forced to give up.
Three weeks later, Bonatti, who found a new rope companion in the person of Luciano Ghigo, set out again to attack the Grand Capucin. Benefiting from less capricious weather than during the first attempt, the two mountaineers cover a large part of the ascent during the first three days. Unfortunately, at the third bivouac, the elements go wild again with the wind and snow appearing. They nevertheless try to complete their project but come up against a difficulty worthy of the reputation of the Grand Capucin, a forty-meter slab as smooth as it is vertical (6C+). Once again, the decision is made to retreat and they make a long and perilous descent, equipped with frozen hemp ropes.
It will take a year and a third attempt to overcome this summit. It is the same tandem which does it again on July 20, 1951 and this time, it only takes them two days to cover the distance already opened the previous year. They then cross the famous "wall" of forty meters and find themselves once again facing a meteorological storm which forces them to bivouac in very precarious conditions. The full day of the next day will be necessary to reach the summit and reach the Torino refuge in the night and the storm. This route is now called the Bonatti route, the first of the name.
This feat will be the opportunity for Walter Bonatti to use for the first time in the high mountains the artificial climbing techniques tested in the Dolomites in the 1930s. Some mountaineers devalue his performance by criticizing the logistics of his ascents, too many peaks , too much scrap that distorts the sporty side of climbing. A debate ensued on the notion of equipment in which Bonatti defended his vision of mountaineering. Nowadays and after considerable progress on the equipment of climbers, almost all the routes open in the Grand Capucin are accessible without the practice of "artif".

[@igordeocosta]

Most impressive to me is the fact that Bonatti conquered this route using only 40 pitons... 😮

[@tvmountain]

Thank you for your message. Yes sure...

[@Moarb1d]

Mindboggling that Bonatti climbed this in 1951.

[@tvmountain]

a great mountaineer

[@cameronstoneadams1183]

That Golden granite is what dreams are made of.
Ce granit doré est ce dont sont faits les rêves.

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@pierreb4070]

Superbe vidéo! Projet d'envergure ! Wow... j en rêve. Bravo

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@carlswenson5403]

mega 👏👍

[@vincenzogonzini4227]

Video bellissimo e bravissimi 🧗👏Bonatti immenso . 👍

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@MountainActivities]

Superbe vidéo !

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@danielsproni1412]

Dans les années 80, celui qui était capable de se faire le " Grand Cap " était assurément une pointure ! ( ce qui ne fut jamais mon cas ) Course mythique par excellence, magnifique vidéo !

[@guy-claudeperilly8611]

ne serait-ce pas plutôt un 5 qu'un 8 ??? 🤨

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@danielsproni1412]

@@guy-claudeperilly8611 moi je grimpais pas trop mal dans les années 80, en 50 je n'étais pas né !

[@andrewsheehy2441]

Granite: God's Rock. Stunning!

[@tvmountain]

merci

[@GiorgioCanepaMBG]

Immaginatevi Walter : quando l'ha aperta e con quale attrezzatura . . .

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message

[@basiloop]

Torino était fermé ?

[@tvmountain]

je ne me souvient pas

[@Charlierock590]

…….il Capucin , monolite super , roccia super …. Per me 2 vie fatte negli anni 80 …….indimenticabili 😎🧐

[@tvmountain]

merci de votre message