Your pads are probably so contaminated that they need to be replaced. You should carefully check your brake calipers to make sure they aren't leaking oil as that's the most common cause of contaminated pads. If it's bad enough, you may have to replace the rotors too...
It's best to avoid touching the rotor surface at all, because even if you're wearing gloves, if you touched anything with the gloves beforehand that can get on the rotors.
As a woodworker and MTB rider, my heart hurt when Syd was sanding the pads. - Lay the paper on the bench, grit side up. Then slide the pad around against the paper (working side toward paper, obviously). Alternatively, Syd could have used a sanding block. All this keeps the new, sanded surface essentially flat, without high and low spots (That will have to be seated in later). The little bit Syd asks about at ~2:50 is a Circlip - a bit unusual shape with the right angle bend, but that's what it is. Overall, a great series of videos. Please keep them coming!
@@sydfixesbikes incorrect re circlip, circlips are similar grooved pin retaining clips www.mcmaster.com/circlips ; these are actually (right-angle) hairpin clips www.mcmaster.com/retaining-pins/hairpin-clips/ the right angle isn't necessary, you can usually find the straight versions in the small parts bins at your local hardware store--just remember to buy 10, as all retaining clips violate the conservation of mass.
@@sydfixesbikes even easier rotor/pad sanding method: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper www.mcmaster.com/8224A34/ to a set of worn brake pads (clean pads first so sandpaper sticks), install pads, ride & apply brakes. in theory you could do similar to sand a set of glazed pads: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper around the braking circumference of an old rotor, install rotor, install wheel, ride & apply brakes--you might have a hard time fitting the rotor + sandpaper between the brake pads however unless the pistons are fully retracted.
Better way to sand the pads is to put sandpaper on something straight, like glass or mirror and move the pads on it with little pressure (with two-three fingers) distributed on the whole surface . This way you dont sand too much in one spot.
7 years tool and die machinist. Peter you are correct, glass is very flat but there is the risk of breaking it in the process. I'd suggest a 2" wide 12" 1/4" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store for a couple bucks a better way to go. Do not clamp or screw it down as this will put a unwanted bow in it, if it moves on your bench, place a couple strips of the thin double sided tape on one side to keep it in place, then thin spray of tack glue to adhere the sand paper to it. Also, putting pressure in middle of the pad will do a better job of keeping even pressure on the surface of the pad when drawing it across the sandpaper, keeping you from taking more material off one side or end than the other. This same process is used in tool and die shops for "lapping" of high precision parts. When you are done, twist the aluminum off, don't pry as it will put a bow in it, and you and reuse it. I use mine on a rubber mat and don't need the tape now.
@@annagraham6204 if it's glazing like a mirror, maybe a 120 is good, to break the surface better, but in general I would use 180 or 240 to rough it up. For the rotor a 320 or 400 would be an option, since you rough the metal more gently up.
Just followed you step by step, and my brakes no longer sound like crunching gravel when I slow down. Thanks, guys. Your material is so valuable and greatly appreciated.
When sanding like this fails or the squealing comes back quickly, use drywall sanding screen for the pads so that the contamination actually falls away and isn't re-imbedded. It's as cheap or cheaper than the sandpaper, is just as available and tends to last longer. Additionally, try to sand in any direction except the way you sanded, you don't have to be perpendicular, just not parallel to the rotor's travel as shown. For one, you'll be able to see how much you've sanded, AND more importantly, the grooves will help the bedding process rather than hinder.
You won't see this most likely, but these videos have provided a wonderful mental boost each week. Not only to work on my own bike, but to get out and ride so I have problems to fix! Thanks for making this channel Syd(and macky!)
From personal experience, keep a dedicated piece of sandpaper in a zip lock in your tool box. It's really easy to contaminate the sandpaper and then you will add to the problem.
100% didn't know this was a thing and the shop never told me. I got my first mountain bike and went riding without bedding in the pads and have had this issue since without knowing why. Thank you!!!
Thank you Syd. I have 2 FS mtn bikes, with my Commencal at home in Oregon. I am in Thailand now and my FS Canyon Neuron has been hanging an entire year and the brakes are squealing like a pig. There are a number of good reference videos, but yours is one of the 3 best that I've seen before!!! So as soon as I saw "Syd - Brakes" I knew I it to be a dependable tutorial. Thank you Syd (& Husband). 😊
Mech engie here: the 'safety little thing that secures the pin' is usually referred as 'cotter pin'. In Italy and Europe each country has a strange name for that little thing (ITA: coppiglia) XD Thanks a lot for the video, my girlfriend's bike was squeaking exactly in the same way (same sound and pitch), while mine never did so over 10 years - so i was a bit confused. Will do the proposed fix asap!
Which you should do anyway. Clean those mofos with alcohol all the time. If you store your bike in a locker that nobody opens up for a full year, when you take it out again... clean the rotors with alcohol. Because this isn't very robust technology.
Put the sandpaper on the bench(sand up) and rub the pad across the top of the paper. For the rotors, put an edge of the sandpaper at the edge of the bench and run the rotors edge across the sandpaper and just rotate each as needed. 2 reasons. It's easier on your hand and keeps an even keel across the pad and/or disc instead of creating 2 unflat surfaces. Hope it helps. Thanks y'all for your great videos!
Great video just have 2 remarks; if you sand the pads, you're better off putting the sanding paper on a flat surface and running the pads over top of it. Also, being a bike shop i'd double check if its ok to spray brake cleaner into the padless calipers; looks like there's plastic pistons that could be affected by brake cleaner. Usually, gaskets like nitrile rubber o-rings don't like solvents as it turns gummy, and some plastics may crack.
You shouldn’t be breathing it in! Rubbing the pads ( which don’t have asbestos, so non carcinogenic) in sandpaper shouldn’t create airborne dust. Just drop some water on the paper first if you are worried...
I bought new pads as I have never saved a pair that glazed but I gave your steps a try and did the bedding like you said and I am skidding to a stop with them. Thank you!! ❤
Leave the rotors on, pull the pads from the caliper, and insert folded sandpaper (emery cloth is best) where the pads would go. Spin the wheel and re-surface the rotor that way. You can pull the lever gently to apply more pressure if needed.
6:45-7:00 Reinstalling the rotor. The torque spec is on the lock ring (40 N•m) and a torque wrench should be used to achieve the torque spec. That way you don’t have to guess at how tight to tighten it. Other than that, I do appreciate the time you have put in to help us know more and be better at working on bicycles! Thank you! - Beaupré Bodacious Bicycles, Albuquerque, NM, USA
Just got a new bike and was wondering why it wasnt breaking as well as my old one. Now I know i need to bed in my breaks. Thanks for the videos. edit: changed "burn" to "bed" in case someone doesnt read replys
Yup! And just so you don't start saying it wrong like we have been for YEARS, technically it's called "bedding in brakes", not "burning them in". It's Macky's fault for saying it wrong for years and in the video 🤣
Despite 10s of thousands of Kilometres under my belt, I remain pretty naïve when it comes to bike mechanics. I got my MTB repaired an serviced ($400) some time ago and road it yesterday for the first time since. Cue big hill. Both my breaks squealed like a pig and I had no stopping power. Even though there was no-one within 10kms of me I was still pretty embarrassed by the noise. The birds were looking at me with like "What the fcuk?" Anyway, I thought i'll have a look to see if Syd and Macky have a video addressing this problem. So here I am. I didn't know you had to burn in your pads etc. I'll have a go and see what happens. Thanks for the video and keep up the great work!
@@OjStudios yes people think it’s be a banner year but you can’t have a banner year with no bikes to sell.. us wrenches have been worked to death though!! 🤣
@@francmeister420 I totally understand. Same thing. People dug out all kinds of bikes from their cellars and who knows where. Trying to put those together, fix'em and sell new bikes that are months late or don't come at all.. Sigh.. Then people complain like it's our fault that we have to wait for some effin' special bolt for your "oh so special" bike. I can't even begin to count how many DIY things I've done during the year because of no part deliveries.
I have watched a few of your videos the past few days on topics I thought I understand. But your format is just truly amazing; enjoyable, great chemistry, funny comments from Syd and you. Congratulations on the perfect format. I live in Santa Fe, NM and hope to visit with one maybe one day.
Thanks - you mentioned something I am experiencing with my bike. My bike disc brakes are not stopping or "locking up" as you mentioned. Thank you for showing a solution.
Thank you you're a legitimate life saver! My electric scooter pretty much has the same disc brakes as a maintain bike and this helped me so much, my pads and rotors work like as if I just took my scoot out of the box!
Syd you remind me a lot of my wife. Some of the terms you use for the tools is awesome. She does the same thing. Thank you both so much for all the information you give to all the home mechanics. Keep it up. Happy holidays
May I suggest using Scotch-Brite pads for (sanding) your rotors. It will produce a nice dull finish without the deep scratches that sandpaper does. It may take a bit more elbow grease, but will give a better result. Sandpaper in the pads is ok as long as it is in the 120 grit range. The goal is to only remove the “glazing “ on the pads. Again no deep scratches as the pads are thin already. This comes from doing it on several car brake rotors which of course have more material to work with, so even more care needs to be taken on bike parts. Oh yea and by the way your videos are amazing. I am a newbie to Mountain Biking and bike repair. Other videos are good but you show the real picture for home mechanics and aspiring home mechanics. Keep up the great content.
So true. I got my bike from the shop. They bleed my brakes but didn’t do this. I can feel the brakes working better but not perfect. Thanks for this video.
Thank you so much for posting this and your five minute lever bleed video, I can’t tell you how much time and money you have saved me with just those two posts! If there’s one thing that’s going to make a Yorkshire man happy it’s saving him some money 😂 Keep up the good work. Kind regards Stuart (U.K.)
My Tips: Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the pads over it so you keep the pads flat, it will also remove and ridges that may have formed. Also all my sanding is perpendicular to the rotation direction. I have found it works better than sanding the same direction as the rotor motion.
Great explanation . My rotors are 1.92mm thick and "scream like a banshee" . Going to whip them off , clean them up and give them a decent "reface" , thanks again from Sydney Australia .
You really should put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pad on it.. to get the most even and flattest sanding. Machinists would call it lapping the surface.
Exactly what I was going to saying. A piece of glass or granite works great put the paper on the glass rub the pads against the payer keeping the press a equal as possible.
Thanks for the awesome videos. Keep them coming… I have been watching you guys since before we opened a bike shop in our small hometown of Oxford, Michigan!! if you’re ever around here stop in. Oxford bike Shoppe!!!
im kind of longing for the simplicity of the good old days when squealing rim brakes we're all that was available and stopping was questionable . changing brakes pads was done with a small open end wrench taking only a minute or two . Now it's micro adjustments on the calipers, messy fluids , modulating the levers etc. 😎
When changing pads, poor some clean water on them and rub the faces together for a minute. The water should go a bit "dirty" as the top coating comes off. Rinse them and you're ready to go.
6:55 if you pull up on your tool you'll only have your arm strength. Try to push the tool downwards so that you can use your whole (upper) body strendth and weight. That way you'll be able to tighten the center lock screw much easier and with much more force (if needed!) Also: If you lay down the piece of sandpaper flat on a surface (your table or so) you can rub the brake pads over it with ease. Use circular movements at first and finish with a back-and-forward-movement. Much more effective and you even could do the job with a tiny piece of sandpaper ;-)
When sanding the pads I place the sandpaper on a flat surface and slide the pad over it to ensure a flat surface and it's way easier. I also have put the sandpaper between the pad and rotors and turned the wheel to act as a rotor lathe. Using the caliper and pad to give a uniform application of sanding pressure on the rotor. It's a bit of a challenge to get the paper in with new pads but thin paper helps. Do one side at a time helps too.
Good tips. I'll add one. Lay down a larger sheet of sandpaper on a very flat surface, like thick glass, or a small surface plate. Rub your part across it, keeping the flatness of your part in order.
@2:50 Cotter pin, R clip, or wiggly thingy. I usually just call it a retaining clip. That one looks like a modified version of an R clip so both sides are wiggly and it's bent at a 90 to make it easier to remove without tools. Shimano apparently calls it a snap ring or snap retainer. Black surface could be glazing (contamination burned into the pads/rotors) or just filth from dirt. This is the first time I've heard of bedding/breaking-in brakes referred to as 'burning'. I've always thought burning brakes meant you're WAAAAAAAY overheating them while racing to the point that they're literally burning. Kinda like the rotors on my Tacoma after towing a trailer down an 8% grade for a few miles at
One trick to stop oils and sweat from fingers; dip them in isopropyl alcohol 70% and dry. It will clean off any natural oils for long enough and it stops your sweat glands from working for about 5-10 minutes or so. I remember learning that from someone who plays on glass harmonica.
Before sanding the pads, use breakcleaner first to de-contaminate them. Otherwise you could end up with sanding the grease/dirt into the pad. Everytime your hands touch the pads or rotor, use brakecleaner to remove the grease
@RollinRat That's like the worst suggestion i've read so far. Changing a rotor because it has oil or grease on it? Huh.. I'm gonna change my hands because they are dirty.
@RollinRat So alot of useless information. Nobody cares. Working in a shop and talking the customer into changing a perfectly good rotor, just because it's ''contaminated'' should make that customer never step in that shop again. So yea, instead of talking like a sales rep, and bragging about your accomplishments, again, nobody care, you should state some technical arguments about why you'd do that. You keep adding the word sintered like it's a new one you've just learned. Back in time, when brake pads were not available at every shop, burning away the contaminants was a good solution, and everything worked fine. The so called risk you are talking about is just your sales brain talking. If the brakes are working properly when you test them, they will also work when you need them. You don't just go on the top of a trail without even pressing the brake lever first and go down just to realise your shop did not replace your ''contaminated'' brake discs just to end up dead in the first corner.
Need to use Emory cloth for sanding copper for plumbing and you can leave rotors on the wheel , then pinch the rotor in between Emory cloth on both sides
The verb(s) you want instead of burn-in are "seat" or "bed in" or " break in" and others. Burn in means to hard brake new pads that leads to hard spots or glazing.
I tried all everything you recommended and still had crazy loud squonking. Then I thought of something I knew about from working on cars: I put a thin film of waterproof grease on the back of the pads where they contact the pistons. Noise was gone instantly. Try it!
Little safety pin on the brake caliper is a cotter pin. Also, it's fine to touch the rotors and pads, just use the brakleen before putting everything back together.
1) As you have a can of brake cleaner, there is no reason not to touch the pads or rotor as long as you give then a quick spritz when you are done. 2) As per the owners manual of my 1965 Mercedes, you should use a small circular motion when removing the glaze on the rotor. 3) to preserve flatness of the pads, place the sandpaper, grit side up on a FLAT surface (a piece of "polished plate "glass is ideal} and sand the pads, pad side done, sand only enough to remove the "shininess" about half as much as you did. 4) As you dod not mention sandpaper grit, I recommend about 150 grit, any kind for the pads, and either "emory" or "aluminum oxide" for the rotor.
We talk about the sanding technique often to renew surfaces. But Syd we’d love to send you some of our brake pads to test - they are notoriously dead-quiet in all conditions.
@RollinRat I'm not sure if your comment is directed at mine above, but to be clear, when I refer to a sanding technique, I am ONLY referring to rotors. Sintered pads (full metallic pads, which are the only ones that use the sintering process) can contaminate the rotor *surface*. This can typically be sanded off easily to renew the surface. All rotors will have a "thickness limit", which you're certainly not going to put a dent in with a good hand-sanding. There really is no way to bring a brake pad back, regardless of the compound. We do suggest a light sanding if the sintered-contaminated rotor glazes the pads. Its a very simple and quick sand to make the brake pads "look" like new again (but again, this is never to resolve a liquid contamination).
@RollinRat ours are ceramic-based and have a pretty different ingredient makeup, BUT do share some elements with a resin. Ours will have the longevity if a sintered, but much better bite, progression and zero noise.
@RollinRat Just saw this. I will reach out to you and let's talk. We don't like to just send pads out without some discussion and honestly, rarely just give them out (the response when we send free samples just isn't taken as seriously we have found). I'll make note of your store and make contact. Thank you.
Our hack here in the Philippines : mix water and dish washing liquid. Then pour it in the rotor and pads while spinning it. It works for a while then the squeek comes back after a few ride. :-)
Ive read so many threads on here about sandpaper and I didn't want to take away from what there trying to do in covid but as an aircraft engineer with 32 yrs experience it makes me shudder when talking what grit sandpaper it shouldn't be used its not designed for any type of metal its for wood and alike you need to if anything some wet/dry fine paper but the best way to clean or degrease a rotor is by a plumbers blow torch that burns the contaminated parts ie hairlines that hold grease / contaminates,
Thanks for your tips. You basically want to bed them in the same as you would when you change pads on the car. In your 1 minute summary you said non chlorinated brake cleaner. The red can of Braklean is chlorinated. Pro Tip: the red can will kill scorpions and black widows way better than any bug spray.
Are you guys brothers & sisters? Just wondering the dynamics of the structure of your interpersonal work place environment? I love your videos! Keep up the awesome work. 🤙🏽
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I tried and absolutely nothing changed still squeal like a mad pig and no breaking power
Your pads are probably so contaminated that they need to be replaced. You should carefully check your brake calipers to make sure they aren't leaking oil as that's the most common cause of contaminated pads. If it's bad enough, you may have to replace the rotors too...
Will it help to wear gloves to not touch by hands?
It's best to avoid touching the rotor surface at all, because even if you're wearing gloves, if you touched anything with the gloves beforehand that can get on the rotors.
Thanks! I used the finest finishing sand paper and it smoothen the rotor.
Now my front brake doesn't apply at all.😊
As a woodworker and MTB rider, my heart hurt when Syd was sanding the pads. - Lay the paper on the bench, grit side up. Then slide the pad around against the paper (working side toward paper, obviously). Alternatively, Syd could have used a sanding block. All this keeps the new, sanded surface essentially flat, without high and low spots (That will have to be seated in later).
The little bit Syd asks about at ~2:50 is a Circlip - a bit unusual shape with the right angle bend, but that's what it is.
Overall, a great series of videos. Please keep them coming!
Great tip on sanding! And good to know about the circlip.
@@sydfixesbikes incorrect re circlip, circlips are similar grooved pin retaining clips www.mcmaster.com/circlips ; these are actually (right-angle) hairpin clips www.mcmaster.com/retaining-pins/hairpin-clips/ the right angle isn't necessary, you can usually find the straight versions in the small parts bins at your local hardware store--just remember to buy 10, as all retaining clips violate the conservation of mass.
@@sydfixesbikes even easier rotor/pad sanding method: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper www.mcmaster.com/8224A34/ to a set of worn brake pads (clean pads first so sandpaper sticks), install pads, ride & apply brakes. in theory you could do similar to sand a set of glazed pads: apply adhesive-backed sandpaper around the braking circumference of an old rotor, install rotor, install wheel, ride & apply brakes--you might have a hard time fitting the rotor + sandpaper between the brake pads however unless the pistons are fully retracted.
Also a woodworker and 2 seconds in was heading to comments to say the same thing lol 😆 😂 😅
Good tips... I wish Syd had said bedding in, not burning in the brakes! :)
There are a lot of TH-cam "Experts" on here, but not a lot of "Thank yous".......Syd and Macky, Thank you for the tips. The entire series is great!!!!
Seriously this channel just has a different vibe man i really love gmbn and parktool but damn does this channel a different vibe
👏👏👏👏 well said ✊
I concur
Better way to sand the pads is to put sandpaper on something straight, like glass or mirror and move the pads on it with little pressure (with two-three fingers) distributed on the whole surface . This way you dont sand too much in one spot.
7 years tool and die machinist. Peter you are correct, glass is very flat but there is the risk of breaking it in the process. I'd suggest a 2" wide 12" 1/4" thick aluminum plate from your local hardware store for a couple bucks a better way to go. Do not clamp or screw it down as this will put a unwanted bow in it, if it moves on your bench, place a couple strips of the thin double sided tape on one side to keep it in place, then thin spray of tack glue to adhere the sand paper to it. Also, putting pressure in middle of the pad will do a better job of keeping even pressure on the surface of the pad when drawing it across the sandpaper, keeping you from taking more material off one side or end than the other. This same process is used in tool and die shops for "lapping" of high precision parts. When you are done, twist the aluminum off, don't pry as it will put a bow in it, and you and reuse it. I use mine on a rubber mat and don't need the tape now.
What grit of sand paper should I use
@@gabrielpinard5538 Good question. Nobody mentions that.
@@annagraham6204 if it's glazing like a mirror, maybe a 120 is good, to break the surface better, but in general I would use 180 or 240 to rough it up. For the rotor a 320 or 400 would be an option, since you rough the metal more gently up.
Just followed you step by step, and my brakes no longer sound like crunching gravel when I slow down. Thanks, guys. Your material is so valuable and greatly appreciated.
When sanding like this fails or the squealing comes back quickly, use drywall sanding screen for the pads so that the contamination actually falls away and isn't re-imbedded. It's as cheap or cheaper than the sandpaper, is just as available and tends to last longer. Additionally, try to sand in any direction except the way you sanded, you don't have to be perpendicular, just not parallel to the rotor's travel as shown. For one, you'll be able to see how much you've sanded, AND more importantly, the grooves will help the bedding process rather than hinder.
Priceless ideas, thanks a lot!!!
@@imi250 Jude Monico from Magura is the source of these ideas. I'm just a messenger.!
You won't see this most likely, but these videos have provided a wonderful mental boost each week. Not only to work on my own bike, but to get out and ride so I have problems to fix! Thanks for making this channel Syd(and macky!)
Woohoo! So glad to hear this!!!
From personal experience, keep a dedicated piece of sandpaper in a zip lock in your tool box. It's really easy to contaminate the sandpaper and then you will add to the problem.
Good tip!
It says this was made 2 days ago but video was only 9 hours old?!
@@f.b.i.5580 I'd guess Patreon members get early access while it is unlisted.
Correct!
@@sydfixesbikes lol I forgot about that🤦♂️
My brother polished my brakes with ptfe spray. I couldn't stop lol. I used a belt sander with a 60 grit belt and it took it off way easyer
To much metal removal.
Never use 60 grit with a belt sander.
I've never told the family or coroner but I put bearing grease on my brothers discs after an argument once
Dont tell us either
@Parabler you are joking right
100% didn't know this was a thing and the shop never told me. I got my first mountain bike and went riding without bedding in the pads and have had this issue since without knowing why. Thank you!!!
Thank you Syd. I have 2 FS mtn bikes, with my Commencal at home in Oregon. I am in Thailand now and my FS Canyon Neuron has been hanging an entire year and the brakes are squealing like a pig.
There are a number of good reference videos, but yours is one of the 3 best that I've seen before!!! So as soon as I saw "Syd - Brakes" I knew I it to be a dependable tutorial.
Thank you Syd (& Husband). 😊
Mech engie here: the 'safety little thing that secures the pin' is usually referred as 'cotter pin'. In Italy and Europe each country has a strange name for that little thing (ITA: coppiglia) XD
Thanks a lot for the video, my girlfriend's bike was squeaking exactly in the same way (same sound and pitch), while mine never did so over 10 years - so i was a bit confused. Will do the proposed fix asap!
Usefult tip: it doesn't matter if you touch the rotor when you're sanding it. Just clean it with alcohol after
Which you should do anyway. Clean those mofos with alcohol all the time. If you store your bike in a locker that nobody opens up for a full year, when you take it out again... clean the rotors with alcohol. Because this isn't very robust technology.
I dunno, brake cleaner seems to be better than alcohol
@@cokbagus23 its basically the same thing. Bike cleaner may contain less alcohol to make room for washing components, but after all its just vodka
@@kennyotsu4357 no, you can't get high on brake cleaners. Some have small amounts of alcohol. But still cheaper to use brake cleaners than vodka.
I use coke to eliminate the noise, works every time
I wish I had a bookshelf full of parts! Such a great channel...I’ve done my own work for decades and this is easy to follow and helpful!
Put the sandpaper on the bench(sand up) and rub the pad across the top of the paper. For the rotors, put an edge of the sandpaper at the edge of the bench and run the rotors edge across the sandpaper and just rotate each as needed. 2 reasons. It's easier on your hand and keeps an even keel across the pad and/or disc instead of creating 2 unflat surfaces. Hope it helps. Thanks y'all for your great videos!
Great video just have 2 remarks; if you sand the pads, you're better off putting the sanding paper on a flat surface and running the pads over top of it. Also, being a bike shop i'd double check if its ok to spray brake cleaner into the padless calipers; looks like there's plastic pistons that could be affected by brake cleaner.
Usually, gaskets like nitrile rubber o-rings don't like solvents as it turns gummy, and some plastics may crack.
Brake fluid isn't water.
And that explains perfectly what I need to do on my brakes tonight! Thanks for the simple easy to follow tips
You guys are my favorite bike wrench TH-cam channel!
Brake dust is very hazardous to breathe or get on your skin, clothing, work area, etc. I like your vids. Please stay safe!
You shouldn’t be breathing it in! Rubbing the pads ( which don’t have asbestos, so non carcinogenic) in sandpaper shouldn’t create airborne dust. Just drop some water on the paper first if you are worried...
I bought new pads as I have never saved a pair that glazed but I gave your steps a try and did the bedding like you said and I am skidding to a stop with them. Thank you!! ❤
Leave the rotors on, pull the pads from the caliper, and insert folded sandpaper (emery cloth is best) where the pads would go. Spin the wheel and re-surface the rotor that way. You can pull the lever gently to apply more pressure if needed.
6:45-7:00 Reinstalling the rotor. The torque spec is on the lock ring (40 N•m) and a torque wrench should be used to achieve the torque spec. That way you don’t have to guess at how tight to tighten it. Other than that, I do appreciate the time you have put in to help us know more and be better at working on bicycles! Thank you! - Beaupré Bodacious Bicycles, Albuquerque, NM, USA
Just got a new bike and was wondering why it wasnt breaking as well as my old one. Now I know i need to bed in my breaks. Thanks for the videos.
edit: changed "burn" to "bed" in case someone doesnt read replys
Yup! And just so you don't start saying it wrong like we have been for YEARS, technically it's called "bedding in brakes", not "burning them in". It's Macky's fault for saying it wrong for years and in the video 🤣
Despite 10s of thousands of Kilometres under my belt, I remain pretty naïve when it comes to bike mechanics. I got my MTB repaired an serviced ($400) some time ago and road it yesterday for the first time since. Cue big hill. Both my breaks squealed like a pig and I had no stopping power. Even though there was no-one within 10kms of me I was still pretty embarrassed by the noise. The birds were looking at me with like "What the fcuk?" Anyway, I thought i'll have a look to see if Syd and Macky have a video addressing this problem. So here I am. I didn't know you had to burn in your pads etc. I'll have a go and see what happens. Thanks for the video and keep up the great work!
Having problems with my brakes and this is the first place I looked for help
I'm pretty sure that bookshelf behind Syd is the reason my bike shop doesn't have a 12 speed Shimano derailleur or rear brake. Holy spares, Batman!
It’s crazy dude!! Shimano rep told me we MIGHT see low end rear mechs by June/July 🥴
Same here. We've been getting a tiny shipments of stuff here and there. Now making a preorder for the next year. Been a crazy year for bike industry!
@@OjStudios yes people think it’s be a banner year but you can’t have a banner year with no bikes to sell.. us wrenches have been worked to death though!! 🤣
@@francmeister420 I totally understand. Same thing. People dug out all kinds of bikes from their cellars and who knows where. Trying to put those together, fix'em and sell new bikes that are months late or don't come at all.. Sigh.. Then people complain like it's our fault that we have to wait for some effin' special bolt for your "oh so special" bike. I can't even begin to count how many DIY things I've done during the year because of no part deliveries.
I have watched a few of your videos the past few days on topics I thought I understand. But your format is just truly amazing; enjoyable, great chemistry, funny comments from Syd and you. Congratulations on the perfect format. I live in Santa Fe, NM and hope to visit with one maybe one day.
Thanks - you mentioned something I am experiencing with my bike. My bike disc brakes are not stopping or "locking up" as you mentioned. Thank you for showing a solution.
Thank you you're a legitimate life saver!
My electric scooter pretty much has the same disc brakes as a maintain bike and this helped me so much, my pads and rotors work like as if I just took my scoot out of the box!
Syd you remind me a lot of my wife. Some of the terms you use for the tools is awesome. She does the same thing. Thank you both so much for all the information you give to all the home mechanics. Keep it up. Happy holidays
damnnn ... there iz uh GAHD 😚
I tend to rub the pads against each other (rather than sand one at a time) that way you don't need sandpaper and it takes half the time.
May I suggest using Scotch-Brite pads for (sanding) your rotors. It will produce a nice dull finish without the deep scratches that sandpaper does. It may take a bit more elbow grease, but will give a better result. Sandpaper in the pads is ok as long as it is in the 120 grit range. The goal is to only remove the “glazing “ on the pads. Again no deep scratches as the pads are thin already. This comes from doing it on several car brake rotors which of course have more material to work with, so even more care needs to be taken on bike parts.
Oh yea and by the way your videos are amazing. I am a newbie to Mountain Biking and bike repair. Other videos are good but you show the real picture for home mechanics and aspiring home mechanics. Keep up the great content.
So true. I got my bike from the shop. They bleed my brakes but didn’t do this. I can feel the brakes working better but not perfect. Thanks for this video.
Thank you so much for posting this and your five minute lever bleed video, I can’t tell you how much time and money you have saved me with just those two posts!
If there’s one thing that’s going to make a Yorkshire man happy it’s saving him some money 😂 Keep up the good work. Kind regards Stuart (U.K.)
What about fold the sand paper over the top. Sand both sides at the same time without touching the rotor 👍
My Tips: Put the sandpaper on a flat surface and run the pads over it so you keep the pads flat, it will also remove and ridges that may have formed. Also all my sanding is perpendicular to the rotation direction. I have found it works better than sanding the same direction as the rotor motion.
Pads against the fine sandpaper on a flat surface, rub them evenly very lightly in figure 8 pattern, just enough to remove the glaze.
By far the best video on this issue
Guys great work, you are the most entertaining couple of mtb , cheers from Colombia
Thanks!
Great explanation . My rotors are 1.92mm thick and "scream like a banshee" . Going to whip them off , clean them up and give them a decent "reface" , thanks again from Sydney Australia .
An often undone and under appreciated step. Quality video Syd! (no credit for Macky :P)
All those parts in the background are gold now nobody can get parts. .. $$$$$
These videos are great I know how to do a majority of the stuff you make videos about but I still find myself sitting and watching your videos.
Love to get all the information in 1 min. But I love to hear you 10 minutes!
You really should put the sandpaper on a flat surface and rub the pad on it.. to get the most even and flattest sanding. Machinists would call it lapping the surface.
Exactly what I was going to saying. A piece of glass or granite works great put the paper on the glass rub the pads against the payer keeping the press a equal as possible.
That was painful to watch, I do love the show otherwise.
@@Hoggdoc1946 Retired machinist... rubbing pads lightly in figure 8 pattern keeps them even. Use a ceramic or marble floor tile for a flat surface.
Thanks for the awesome videos. Keep them coming… I have been watching you guys since before we opened a bike shop in our small hometown of Oxford, Michigan!! if you’re ever around here stop in. Oxford bike Shoppe!!!
Love the explanations! Leaves no questions open.
Great job, thank you! You are knowledgeable and skilled, but best of all both of you are likable and relatable...👏👍👏
never seen your videos before. the content is good in a leisure manner. thanks
I don’t normally comment. I feel like I have to though, your videos are great they are so helpful!
I’m now a subscriber 😊
You guys are an adorable couple... relationship goals right here.
im kind of longing for the simplicity of the good old days when squealing rim brakes we're all that was available and stopping was questionable . changing brakes pads was done with a small open end wrench taking only a minute or two .
Now it's micro adjustments on the calipers, messy fluids , modulating the levers etc. 😎
I would love to see a video about the chemical process behind bedding in the brakes!
Recently I've been taking the pads and burning off the contamination with a blow torch. The out come works great and no squealing either 😎
Recently i have skipped the pads sanding. I use degreaser + heating on the stove, works perfect.
You two are great together. 😊 top TH-camrs. Also I learned in detail everything I need to know about my disc brakes. 😊 excellent video.
When changing pads, poor some clean water on them and rub the faces together for a minute. The water should go a bit "dirty" as the top coating comes off. Rinse them and you're ready to go.
Fun video with easy explanation of the steps involved. Thanks!
Love that I hit on your channel. Easy to follow videos and not too deep into the rabbit hole of all things bike - appreciate that.
6:55 if you pull up on your tool you'll only have your arm strength. Try to push the tool downwards so that you can use your whole (upper) body strendth and weight. That way you'll be able to tighten the center lock screw much easier and with much more force (if needed!)
Also: If you lay down the piece of sandpaper flat on a surface (your table or so) you can rub the brake pads over it with ease. Use circular movements at first and finish with a back-and-forward-movement. Much more effective and you even could do the job with a tiny piece of sandpaper ;-)
I love the 1 minute summaries!
When sanding the pads I place the sandpaper on a flat surface and slide the pad over it to ensure a flat surface and it's way easier. I also have put the sandpaper between the pad and rotors and turned the wheel to act as a rotor lathe. Using the caliper and pad to give a uniform application of sanding pressure on the rotor. It's a bit of a challenge to get the paper in with new pads but thin paper helps. Do one side at a time helps too.
You guys are awesome, you make bike maintenance fun, informative, and entertaining. Thanks!!
Really? Neither of them know how to describe an R clip. Don't know to keep the sandpaper flat to re-surface pads etc. Why be taught by a novice
Nice tip, with an old hub attach the rotor to it and than work on it. A hub without the spokes and rim is a great handle!
Isopropyl then acetone didn't stop the squeal but the blow torch did! Sanded the crust off then all good. Thanks for the confidence building video
Super vid! I'd bet London to a brick, that most folks have had this problem at some point. Love the channel - keep em coming!
I sure did but just kept riding it. And in 3 short years the sound stopped :)
followed your advice - no annoying sounds anymore and break power, as i expect for dh brakes 👍👍👍👍love your channel ❤️
I love the way you explain each service part: thank you guys 👍👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
10:06 - "You can do this by doing a stoppie or a skid." - Um...I can't do a stoppie even if I'm NOT checking the bedding of my brakes. haha!
that says a lot about your bike handling. it wouldn't hurt if you would spend some time on this. It might save you one day
Good tips. I'll add one. Lay down a larger sheet of sandpaper on a very flat surface, like thick glass, or a small surface plate. Rub your part across it, keeping the flatness of your part in order.
@2:50 Cotter pin, R clip, or wiggly thingy. I usually just call it a retaining clip. That one looks like a modified version of an R clip so both sides are wiggly and it's bent at a 90 to make it easier to remove without tools. Shimano apparently calls it a snap ring or snap retainer.
Black surface could be glazing (contamination burned into the pads/rotors) or just filth from dirt.
This is the first time I've heard of bedding/breaking-in brakes referred to as 'burning'. I've always thought burning brakes meant you're WAAAAAAAY overheating them while racing to the point that they're literally burning. Kinda like the rotors on my Tacoma after towing a trailer down an 8% grade for a few miles at
You guys help me with centering rotor and prevent rubbing. Thanks ❤️
Great video, i tried this on my ultegra pads and discs and great stopping power and burnt them great. I cleaned them with acetone Thanks.
One trick to stop oils and sweat from fingers; dip them in isopropyl alcohol 70% and dry. It will clean off any natural oils for long enough and it stops your sweat glands from working for about 5-10 minutes or so. I remember learning that from someone who plays on glass harmonica.
this was what i was looking for!! great video and thanks guys
great vid buddy! Aloha from Hawaii
Before sanding the pads, use breakcleaner first to de-contaminate them. Otherwise you could end up with sanding the grease/dirt into the pad. Everytime your hands touch the pads or rotor, use brakecleaner to remove the grease
@RollinRat That's like the worst suggestion i've read so far. Changing a rotor because it has oil or grease on it? Huh.. I'm gonna change my hands because they are dirty.
@RollinRat So alot of useless information. Nobody cares. Working in a shop and talking the customer into changing a perfectly good rotor, just because it's ''contaminated'' should make that customer never step in that shop again. So yea, instead of talking like a sales rep, and bragging about your accomplishments, again, nobody care, you should state some technical arguments about why you'd do that. You keep adding the word sintered like it's a new one you've just learned. Back in time, when brake pads were not available at every shop, burning away the contaminants was a good solution, and everything worked fine. The so called risk you are talking about is just your sales brain talking. If the brakes are working properly when you test them, they will also work when you need them. You don't just go on the top of a trail without even pressing the brake lever first and go down just to realise your shop did not replace your ''contaminated'' brake discs just to end up dead in the first corner.
Need to use Emory cloth for sanding copper for plumbing and you can leave rotors on the wheel , then pinch the rotor in between Emory cloth on both sides
Sram has a fantastic bedding in video everyone should watch.
The verb(s) you want instead of burn-in are "seat" or "bed in" or " break in" and others. Burn in means to hard brake new pads that leads to hard spots or glazing.
Yay, adverts for cars before the video. Well done ‘tube.
I tried all everything you recommended and still had crazy loud squonking. Then I thought of something I knew about from working on cars: I put a thin film of waterproof grease on the back of the pads where they contact the pistons. Noise was gone instantly. Try it!
i will try it, thanks for the tip!
Little safety pin on the brake caliper is a cotter pin. Also, it's fine to touch the rotors and pads, just use the brakleen before putting everything back together.
1) As you have a can of brake cleaner, there is no reason not to touch the pads or rotor as long as you give then a quick spritz when you are done. 2) As per the owners manual of my 1965 Mercedes, you should use a small circular motion when removing the glaze on the rotor. 3) to preserve flatness of the pads, place the sandpaper, grit side up on a FLAT surface (a piece of "polished plate "glass is ideal} and sand the pads, pad side done, sand only enough to remove the "shininess" about half as much as you did. 4) As you dod not mention sandpaper grit, I recommend about 150 grit, any kind for the pads, and either "emory" or "aluminum oxide" for the rotor.
We talk about the sanding technique often to renew surfaces. But Syd we’d love to send you some of our brake pads to test - they are notoriously dead-quiet in all conditions.
Including the condition of, "oops, I just spilled mineral oil on my pads and rotor"?!
@@mattgies rotor, sure. Brake pads - probably not. That always seems to be the move that kills them with no return.
@RollinRat I'm not sure if your comment is directed at mine above, but to be clear, when I refer to a sanding technique, I am ONLY referring to rotors. Sintered pads (full metallic pads, which are the only ones that use the sintering process) can contaminate the rotor *surface*. This can typically be sanded off easily to renew the surface. All rotors will have a "thickness limit", which you're certainly not going to put a dent in with a good hand-sanding. There really is no way to bring a brake pad back, regardless of the compound. We do suggest a light sanding if the sintered-contaminated rotor glazes the pads. Its a very simple and quick sand to make the brake pads "look" like new again (but again, this is never to resolve a liquid contamination).
@RollinRat ours are ceramic-based and have a pretty different ingredient makeup, BUT do share some elements with a resin. Ours will have the longevity if a sintered, but much better bite, progression and zero noise.
@RollinRat Just saw this. I will reach out to you and let's talk. We don't like to just send pads out without some discussion and honestly, rarely just give them out (the response when we send free samples just isn't taken as seriously we have found). I'll make note of your store and make contact. Thank you.
uhh this was clean tutorial, learned so much... subbed!
i love you two quarrels at each other, it's like a cat wanted to mate on the roof of the house.😂😂😂
I actually like loud brakes. Favourite thing on the trails!
Thank you! It was a really straight forward learning experience, keep up the good work.
"Widget" = Cotter Pin. Awesome content!
Our hack here in the Philippines : mix water and dish washing liquid. Then pour it in the rotor and pads while spinning it. It works for a while then the squeek comes back after a few ride. :-)
Cheers guys for the info. Review. Brilliant 😉🤘
Question; does it matter what level/grit of sandpaper you use?
We've never worried about it, but finer is probably a bit better...
Ive read so many threads on here about sandpaper and I didn't want to take away from what there trying to do in covid but as an aircraft engineer with 32 yrs experience it makes me shudder when talking what grit sandpaper it shouldn't be used its not designed for any type of metal its for wood and alike you need to if anything some wet/dry fine paper but the best way to clean or degrease a rotor is by a plumbers blow torch that burns the contaminated parts ie hairlines that hold grease / contaminates,
Thank you very much for the explanatory video!
My volunteer team love your channel...
that was so useful!!! Thanks a pile! Now I know what's wrong with my stoppers and can sort them properly.
Thanks for your tips. You basically want to bed them in the same as you would when you change pads on the car.
In your 1 minute summary you said non chlorinated brake cleaner. The red can of Braklean is chlorinated. Pro Tip: the red can will kill scorpions and black widows way better than any bug spray.
Are you guys brothers & sisters? Just wondering the dynamics of the structure of your interpersonal work place environment? I love your videos! Keep up the awesome work. 🤙🏽
Married. More interaction on our main channel: th-cam.com/users/sydandmacky
Thanks! Was going to buy new pads, but I will give the sanding a try.
Thanks for the tips on this, I think it has solved my issue.