Love your learning journey. I think sometimes more experienced presenters make assumptions about pre-existing knowledge. I think your process of learning these things and putting them through the filter of your brain (your brain being that of a rider) is the perfect translator to match your implicit knowledge of the mechanical functioning on a bike to the explicit knowledge required for all of us to figure out what bits and bobs need to be tweaked. I've seen other videos that attempt to explain rebound and they almost always make it more complicated than it actually is (which to me is also an indicator that they don't really understand both the mechanical and dynamic riding perspectives of what's going on... that is they can't clearly translate how each adjustment will manifest on the trail where as you do an excellent job of that). I've been a roadie for 38+ years so suspension is new to me... and a bit overwhelming. I'm bottoming out a bit and was going to swap out the air shaft on the front fork to get me another centimeter or two of travel BUT, after watching this video I think there's other possibilities I need to exhaust first before making a change that would also modify the geometry of the bike. Thanks, Syd!
Great video. You guys are the best at explaining the mechanics of the parts. First you taught me derailleur adjusting. And now i understand shocks a helluva lot more!!!
As long as you use it inside-out. Otherwise, you'll have to cut it off and doing so risks scratching your shock (much worse than getting some market on it).
also Syd, the high speed compression would also occur during emergency brake applications, that is where the full riders and bikes weight (CG) is shifted forwards, due to inertia, when stopping, all the weight is on the front, and off the rear.( hence the "dive" trim when stopping).
great tutorial, very practical, fun to watch, thank you!! You could say: high-speed compression is for hard hits, slow speed compression is for ... 'soft' hits ???
You already explained that it is related time that your suspension compresses and that is related to the speed. The Faster you are the faster you want your suspension to rebound or uncompress between bumps.
syd great video on proper setting of ur shock .rebound etc however what about doing a video on the setting of a cannondale lefty fork .rite know a get a lot of stickion .or some time not enough rebound or not properly compression setting
4 หลายเดือนก่อน
i have a mtb, how do i know if there is air in there or not, or if i can change to pressure or not ?
Goodness, I've watch a ton of suspension set up videos and this one is extremely well done. Unfortunately, my newbie brain just can not grasp the purpose/benefit of setting the 'Sag'. To me, it just seems like a less aggressive version of 'compression'. For instance, what would be the negative effect if you were to just 'kill 2 birds' and skip 'Sag' by going straight to 'compression'? Wouldn't the larger range setting of Compression cover the Sag range? Signed...well confused. 😆
Sag is a static measurement (the amount of suspension compression at rest with the rider on the bike). It's only useful as a setup measurement. Compression is the rate that the suspension compresses under different conditions. It can't be measured statically. Does that help at all?
S&M, appreciate the update on Niner suspension. On another note, I notice you have a chain guide on your Niner. Is that necessary or a personal choice? I ride in the mountains of Phoenix & Tucson as well as Sedona and St George. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Blue skies, Jg
Personal choice. 12 speed no-drop systems with clutches are pretty good at keeping chains on, but we like the extra security. We'd recommend not worrying about it unless you find yourself dropping your chain more than once every few months.
When doing the initial rebound setup, are you leaving you weight on the handlebars as you test to see if the wheel is popping up or are you completely unweighting the front end?
So, regarding compression, would I set on "locking out" on a track that lacks obstacles and is relatively smooth. And do the opposite for a track that may have rocks etc?
Honestly, we almost never use our fork lockouts, especially on hardtails. The only exception would be a paved section, especially a climb. Otherwise, the advantage of locking out the fork is generally neutralized by how much more you get bounced around, even on fairly smooth trails...
@@sydfixesbikes Can I do damage to my fork by riding it on bumps in the locked out position? I tried to ride "locked out" to keep things even between me and someone on a rigid bike, but now I hear the fluid in my fork more than I used to. Did I damage it? Can oil leak around the seals bc of this?
No, that shouldn't have caused any issues. As long as the fork feels like it did before, don't worry about it. If you're hearing it more and didn't change any settings, just make sure that you got it fully unlocked.
Yup, that's our recommendation for starting settings. We were hoping to explain how things worked too though to make next week's video more understandable 😜
Hey , ive got a sr suntour raidon 34 boost with 100mm travel, but i havent found any weight guide lines anywhere. If i weight arounf 87kg how much pressere do i need?
See if this helps (it's a PDF owner's manual): www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.srsuntour.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Consumer/Bike/Owners%2520manuals/Archive/2016/AURON-owners-manual-2016-v-14-03-2016-english.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj-3a_I9YzvAhWB4J4KHeknB8sQFjAAegQIBBAD&usg=AOvVaw1q-oFxYIX7v8DW1XKGiBFe
I think the rebound explanation is reversed. Every where else it says that LSR is the bottom section and HSR is for when you have used up a lot of the fork
Thanks soo much!!! It seems like I have watched a million videos on the subject, but you guys actually explain it in a way that is straight forward and understandable. Keep up the great vids because they have really help!!! I can’t wait for the next suspension video!!!
Great job of explaining how the settings work and what they do in layman’s terms. I put zip ties around my fork/shock when I lose an o ring. It works great.
I think it helps to point out the nature of the fork - it's a spring that can be compressed and stores energy. This helps when trying to explain compression and rebound to folks. For compression, the square edge hit (curbs, rock ledges) vs. slow gradual undulations (gentle whoops, for example) are great ways to explain high and low speed compression... it's all about the rate at which the spring is compressed. Similar for rebound in that a compressed spring stores energy, and the quantity stored helps determine the acceleration as it expands. A deeply compressed spring will want to expand rapidly with a mass attached... high speed rebound slows that down. Similarly, a shorter compressed spring (less energy) will not be able to expand as quickly and accelerated the mass (bike + you), and so this would be a slower rebound & low speed compression. Another thing to keep in mind is that suspension doesn't just work based upon a rod blocking oil passing through a fixed size hole... but modern suspension (especially higher end coil forks/shocks - this is all straight from motorcycling/autosports) often incorporates a stack of metal shims, commonly known as the valving. Changing the shim stack (how many pieces of metal, their arrangement, their dimensions & stiffness) can change the low and high speed compression/rebound.... and then you start to learn that the compression and rebound systems are also linked... and down the dark black hole you go. At the end it's all physics, and we're just trying to control the contraction & expansion rates for a damped spring system.
Awesome video, guys! Very thorough. One of the best ways I've found to think about low and high speed compression is this: Low speed is when your bodyweight is the primary moving force on the suspension (like a g-out compression or pedal bob). High speed is when the terrain is the primary moving force (rocks, roots, trail "roughness"). It's not a perfect explanation, but helps to separate the two.
Oh boy, make a video about suspension and all the super duper advanced uber-tuners come out! I think some people missed the point of the video (and perhaps the whole channel). It’s just to help people get a grasp on the basic adjustments and have some confidence and direction for adjusting their own bike. A lot of people, at least in the biking world, are hesitant and confused about suspension adjustments, when they could gain a lot of enjoyment and confidence from having a tune anywhere near correct. I think this video works well to present the ideas in a relaxed, conversational way. People talking about cracking into the shim stacks and particular physics behind oil flow. It’s not like every derailleur adjustment video requires a deep dive into relative merits of cable pull ratios, double vs single sprung pivots, low vs top normal, half-step gearing, slant vs straight parallelograms, and etc... (though now I guess we are back to straight parallelograms with 1x like it’s some new-fangled revelation 😂). Get too technical too fast and you just get glazed eyes. Gee whiz.
I have thoroughly enjoyed your channel, I am Director of Programs at Bridge II Sports and I have learn a lot that I have been able to apply to our cycles for the adapted cycling program.
Another great video. Love the analogy with hand motions and sounds. When watching the FOX MTB channel at races, most of the racers try to explain how their suspension is functioning with hand motions and sounds, quite entertaining!!!
instead of a sharpie or a o-ring, you could use a ziptie and flip it the other way around so you can just take i off afterwards instead of having to cut it.
You guys freakin rock! I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how bikes work, then I started watching your videos and on almost every one I had an aha moment. I will be riding a very different “bike” in the near future and even though it’s not even close to what your other followers are probably riding the basic rules still apply. I am amazed at how well both of you explain things! I was in retail mgmt for 30 years, and the way I taught people was similar but you do a much better job than I. I’m so impressed how well you two work together, and how honest you seem to be. Honesty is very hard to come by now a days. I hope that you continue this channel because you are truly helping people. Thank you!
I understand most of what your saying, my trouble is Fox recommended settings are off to begin with, I get it close then check this, that over terrain feels good, then I hit some chatter on trail then about get bucked off, so I give it more compression, then slower high speed rebound and it does a little better but worst on other terrain, getting there but frustrating for me.
Seems like some botomless tokens might help you. They make the travel more progressive, so in the beginning it can feel more smooth, but stiffen when doing big hits and going further into travel
Fox rear shock absorber and front shock absorber are the best 🎉🎉 Shimano makes the best Breakes and Gears and best by far crank set 🎉🎉🎉🎉 Trust me 😮😮😮😮 Best bike stand = Feedback Feedback Feedback alllllllllllll the wayyyyyyyyyyy. 😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Syd, at 26:17 another way to think of the +/- of the orifice needle adjustment, is the + means increasing the oils resistance to moving from one chamber to another, aka a crowd at boxing day sales, trying to get through a smaller door, vs a larger one. PS: I have some mechanical experience (cars), and this is what that hole is called, an orifice, or a JET/nozzle like in a fire hose, jet engine, a tapered hole of x size to control flow of fluids.
@@sydfixesbikes Oh okay. I have used zip ties a ton, and have never had any issues. I think Seth said in one of his videos that he just puts a zip tie on his forks if the o-ring falls off.
Your explanation of the parts which represent the slow and fast rebound regarding to areas on the fork legs is backwards. The lower part is the part where slow rebound is relevant and the upper part is the one where fast rebound is relevant. Also The rebound should NOT feel the same front and back. The back always has to be slower than the front, or you will be kicked over the bars if you try to jump over anything.
26:45 why do both HSC and LSC knobs turn together when you were only turning one of them? Sorry I’ve been a Rockshox guy but just got a Fox 38 and it does that too.
I have an older fox float RP2 shock. I completed a rebuild and I can definitely feel a huge difference now. The only thing now is the lock out will not “lock out” curious what I need to do? Any help would be greater accepted.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Just gotta make the point, rebound speed is highly dependent upon terrain ie "the distance between rocks". There is no perfect setting. Same applies to compression ie 'size of the rocks"... the factors in adjustment are highly variable and mixed together and may change multiple times in a short distance. It's a dark art that is up to personal preference at any given time without perfection.
like Where do I want to buy a fox cap..in Malaysia such a cap has two lines on the edge very many people wear, And what is the price of the cap? sory girl I overlooked your stamp while this video has been a year he youtube thank you boss..stay safe and stay at home omicron 😷 very dangerous now..I hope we are all protected From COVID-19
If this video was helpful and saved you time and/or money, consider supporting the channel by hitting the "Thanks" button above to leave a tip.
Thank you for using small words I could understand. I leave this video with a much better understanding of my bike's suspension.
Love your learning journey. I think sometimes more experienced presenters make assumptions about pre-existing knowledge. I think your process of learning these things and putting them through the filter of your brain (your brain being that of a rider) is the perfect translator to match your implicit knowledge of the mechanical functioning on a bike to the explicit knowledge required for all of us to figure out what bits and bobs need to be tweaked. I've seen other videos that attempt to explain rebound and they almost always make it more complicated than it actually is (which to me is also an indicator that they don't really understand both the mechanical and dynamic riding perspectives of what's going on... that is they can't clearly translate how each adjustment will manifest on the trail where as you do an excellent job of that). I've been a roadie for 38+ years so suspension is new to me... and a bit overwhelming. I'm bottoming out a bit and was going to swap out the air shaft on the front fork to get me another centimeter or two of travel BUT, after watching this video I think there's other possibilities I need to exhaust first before making a change that would also modify the geometry of the bike. Thanks, Syd!
Remember to unlock any platform (eg trail setting) and do all of that work the suspension open.
Great high and low speed explanation!
Great video. You guys are the best at explaining the mechanics of the parts. First you taught me derailleur adjusting. And now i understand shocks a helluva lot more!!!
Does everyone agree Fox needs to "man up" and copy Rockshox and add sag % on the shock tubes
They cant from my understanding due to rockshox parent that prevents it
I personally prefer the cleaner look of Fox.
Patent ruin all
I have rockshox without the markings... it ain't hard to use a sharpie and a ruler
@@starsky8351 patent for markings
I really liked your bottle cap explanation about rebound. It really made alot of sense.
Thanks, Syd! Out of all the videos I found, this one was the most helpful one!!
Great real-world explanation guys. Love Syd's workshop look😊
you can use a ziptie temporarily instead of sharpie.
As long as you use it inside-out. Otherwise, you'll have to cut it off and doing so risks scratching your shock (much worse than getting some market on it).
I really like this vid. You are both doing an amazing job of explaining MTB mechanics. I look forward to your future videos.
also Syd, the high speed compression would also occur during emergency brake applications, that is where the full riders and bikes weight (CG) is shifted forwards, due to inertia, when stopping, all the weight is on the front, and off the rear.( hence the "dive" trim when stopping).
great tutorial, very practical, fun to watch, thank you!! You could say: high-speed compression is for hard hits, slow speed compression is for ... 'soft' hits ???
I’m new. Your comment is the first thing I’ve understood!
Love how you keep it light n funny, but hitting key points. Now you just need to have stickers made that say "Large Bump Compression "😂
I searched your channel for a video like this yesterday... it’s like you guys know what your viewers need. Thanks
Another great video especially for a noob like me, can’t wait for the next one 🚵♂️ 😀
never heard of stacking up, only heard of packing up
Fantastic job of explaining things! Great job :)
That was EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks guys.
YOU. B. RAD !!!!!
GOOD. ON. TIPS!!!!
Don't have time to watch rn but already want to thank you cause this is exactly what I need.
Paging Jordi Cortes!
Seriously though, good video :)
Thanks for sharing, awesome tutorial as always, 😌😁
Nice video. Sound effects too!
Very good explanation syd.
Thank you.
Great Job!! Newbie here and this was one of the best explanations I have found! Looking forward to part 2. Keep up the GREAT work!
i have a santa cruz nomad and the coil shock is hidden in the VPP tunnel... JEEEEZZUZZZ
You already explained that it is related time that your suspension compresses and that is related to the speed. The Faster you are the faster you want your suspension to rebound or uncompress between bumps.
Maybe us a dry erase marker instead of a sharpie? Just a thought, not sure how it would work
syd great video on proper setting of ur shock .rebound etc however what about doing a video on the setting of a cannondale lefty fork .rite know a get a lot of stickion .or some time not enough rebound or not properly compression setting
i have a mtb, how do i know if there is air in there or not, or if i can change to pressure or not ?
Spring stays the same, high or lower ; under compression, less or more travel ; shocks , rebound etc. same as the front
Goodness, I've watch a ton of suspension set up videos and this one is extremely well done.
Unfortunately, my newbie brain just can not grasp the purpose/benefit of setting the 'Sag'.
To me, it just seems like a less aggressive version of 'compression'.
For instance, what would be the negative effect if you were to just 'kill 2 birds' and skip 'Sag' by going straight to 'compression'?
Wouldn't the larger range setting of Compression cover the Sag range?
Signed...well confused. 😆
Sag is a static measurement (the amount of suspension compression at rest with the rider on the bike). It's only useful as a setup measurement.
Compression is the rate that the suspension compresses under different conditions. It can't be measured statically.
Does that help at all?
Can someone please give me some tips on my issue of hitting my butt when I’m going steep downhills, steep drops & jumping?
Very well done. Cannot wait for part 2. Thank you :)
I like your hat syd
Where you get that hat? It’s cool!
Good stuff
Slow compression is response to body movement like pumping. High speed is when you ride drop offs or ride through rock garden.
where can I buy the cap you are wearing ?🧢
Kevin 🇩🇰
Great !
Fab video
S&M, appreciate the update on Niner suspension. On another note, I notice you have a chain guide on your Niner. Is that necessary or a personal choice? I ride in the mountains of Phoenix & Tucson as well as Sedona and St George. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Blue skies, Jg
Personal choice. 12 speed no-drop systems with clutches are pretty good at keeping chains on, but we like the extra security. We'd recommend not worrying about it unless you find yourself dropping your chain more than once every few months.
When doing the initial rebound setup, are you leaving you weight on the handlebars as you test to see if the wheel is popping up or are you completely unweighting the front end?
Completely unweighting
What about a dry erase marker instead of a sharpie?
Yup, works too. Just wipes off more easily which can be an issue if you're trying to set it up without a friend 😉
or use a zip tie as an o ring :-)
The Loris impression 🤣
So, regarding compression, would I set on "locking out" on a track that lacks obstacles and is relatively smooth. And do the opposite for a track that may have rocks etc?
Honestly, we almost never use our fork lockouts, especially on hardtails. The only exception would be a paved section, especially a climb. Otherwise, the advantage of locking out the fork is generally neutralized by how much more you get bounced around, even on fairly smooth trails...
@@sydfixesbikes Can I do damage to my fork by riding it on bumps in the locked out position? I tried to ride "locked out" to keep things even between me and someone on a rigid bike, but now I hear the fluid in my fork more than I used to. Did I damage it? Can oil leak around the seals bc of this?
No, that shouldn't have caused any issues. As long as the fork feels like it did before, don't worry about it. If you're hearing it more and didn't change any settings, just make sure that you got it fully unlocked.
Like, do y'all not know how easy it is to get sharpie off, with literally any of the chemicals you use for cleaning bike parts?
This was definitely very helpful, but my main takeaway was “look up what the manufacturer recommends and use that”.
Yup, that's our recommendation for starting settings. We were hoping to explain how things worked too though to make next week's video more understandable 😜
Hey , ive got a sr suntour raidon 34 boost with 100mm travel, but i havent found any weight guide lines anywhere. If i weight arounf 87kg how much pressere do i need?
See if this helps (it's a PDF owner's manual): www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=www.srsuntour.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Consumer/Bike/Owners%2520manuals/Archive/2016/AURON-owners-manual-2016-v-14-03-2016-english.pdf&ved=2ahUKEwj-3a_I9YzvAhWB4J4KHeknB8sQFjAAegQIBBAD&usg=AOvVaw1q-oFxYIX7v8DW1XKGiBFe
You may have to copy/paste the link into a web browser.
@@sydfixesbikes awesome! But is the auron the same as the raidon 34?
Ah, good question. Didn't notice it said Auron. Googled it and found another PDF that said 100-115 psi for a 83-91kg rider.
@@sydfixesbikes ah thats awesome! Thx for the help and keep up the good videos. Helps a great deal for working on my own bikes!
Jinsi unavyosema xc hivyo ni thabiti?
I lost my shock o ring and use a small zip tie insted
That's what I do aswell, I just use it backwards so it just slips off when finished
I think the rebound explanation is reversed. Every where else it says that LSR is the bottom section and HSR is for when you have used up a lot of the fork
Syd😍
btw think its packing up.. not stacking.. least i never heard of that one.. LOL
Sharpie is okay. Inside out zip tie is easier and reusable without any cleanup.
Why am I watching this as a rigid rider?😂
Because KNOWLEDGE!
Why are a bunch of these riders wearing plaid button downs - did I miss a memo or something.
No marker...zip tie.
Hot female woody.
Thanks soo much!!! It seems like I have watched a million videos on the subject, but you guys actually explain it in a way that is straight forward and understandable. Keep up the great vids because they have really help!!! I can’t wait for the next suspension video!!!
I feel safer whit slow rebound and maybe 15-20 % sag max in front I ride a new agresive hardatail i want my tire stick to the ground I'm bad?
Great job of explaining how the settings work and what they do in layman’s terms. I put zip ties around my fork/shock when I lose an o ring. It works great.
A hack to measure the sag is algo using a ziptie or something that stays in place and don't scratch the fork
I think it helps to point out the nature of the fork - it's a spring that can be compressed and stores energy. This helps when trying to explain compression and rebound to folks. For compression, the square edge hit (curbs, rock ledges) vs. slow gradual undulations (gentle whoops, for example) are great ways to explain high and low speed compression... it's all about the rate at which the spring is compressed. Similar for rebound in that a compressed spring stores energy, and the quantity stored helps determine the acceleration as it expands. A deeply compressed spring will want to expand rapidly with a mass attached... high speed rebound slows that down. Similarly, a shorter compressed spring (less energy) will not be able to expand as quickly and accelerated the mass (bike + you), and so this would be a slower rebound & low speed compression.
Another thing to keep in mind is that suspension doesn't just work based upon a rod blocking oil passing through a fixed size hole... but modern suspension (especially higher end coil forks/shocks - this is all straight from motorcycling/autosports) often incorporates a stack of metal shims, commonly known as the valving. Changing the shim stack (how many pieces of metal, their arrangement, their dimensions & stiffness) can change the low and high speed compression/rebound.... and then you start to learn that the compression and rebound systems are also linked... and down the dark black hole you go.
At the end it's all physics, and we're just trying to control the contraction & expansion rates for a damped spring system.
Awesome video, guys! Very thorough. One of the best ways I've found to think about low and high speed compression is this: Low speed is when your bodyweight is the primary moving force on the suspension (like a g-out compression or pedal bob). High speed is when the terrain is the primary moving force (rocks, roots, trail "roughness"). It's not a perfect explanation, but helps to separate the two.
Another great video. However I am so confused lol. Think I need to watch again after I've had sleep
I just learned more in 30 minutes than I have in 25 years of trying to adjust the suspensions on my mountain bikes.
Oh boy, make a video about suspension and all the super duper advanced uber-tuners come out! I think some people missed the point of the video (and perhaps the whole channel). It’s just to help people get a grasp on the basic adjustments and have some confidence and direction for adjusting their own bike. A lot of people, at least in the biking world, are hesitant and confused about suspension adjustments, when they could gain a lot of enjoyment and confidence from having a tune anywhere near correct. I think this video works well to present the ideas in a relaxed, conversational way.
People talking about cracking into the shim stacks and particular physics behind oil flow. It’s not like every derailleur adjustment video requires a deep dive into relative merits of cable pull ratios, double vs single sprung pivots, low vs top normal, half-step gearing, slant vs straight parallelograms, and etc... (though now I guess we are back to straight parallelograms with 1x like it’s some new-fangled revelation 😂). Get too technical too fast and you just get glazed eyes. Gee whiz.
Hear hear! 🍻
You can also use a cable tie to measure sag, but put it on backwards so you can undo it again
Could always use a dry erase board marker, it would wipe off easily
I have thoroughly enjoyed your channel, I am Director of Programs at Bridge II Sports and I have learn a lot that I have been able to apply to our cycles for the adapted cycling program.
Another great video. Love the analogy with hand motions and sounds. When watching the FOX MTB channel at races, most of the racers try to explain how their suspension is functioning with hand motions and sounds, quite entertaining!!!
I appreciate the sacrifice made to get all those "rocks" for the compression example :) Nice work you two!
We do our best 😁
There’s no pebbles in Taos...bottle caps were the only possibility
instead of a sharpie or a o-ring, you could use a ziptie and flip it the other way around so you can just take i off afterwards instead of having to cut it.
You guys freakin rock! I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how bikes work, then I started watching your videos and on almost every one I had an aha moment. I will be riding a very different “bike” in the near future and even though it’s not even close to what your other followers are probably riding the basic rules still apply. I am amazed at how well both of you explain things! I was in retail mgmt for 30 years, and the way I taught people was similar but you do a much better job than I. I’m so impressed how well you two work together, and how honest you seem to be. Honesty is very hard to come by now a days. I hope that you continue this channel because you are truly helping people. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words!
Great video! I like how y'all broke down the terms and explained things in a simple way. Very helpful and I look forward to the next video.
I understand most of what your saying, my trouble is Fox recommended settings are off to begin with, I get it close then check this, that over terrain feels good, then I hit some chatter on trail then about get bucked off, so I give it more compression, then slower high speed rebound and it does a little better but worst on other terrain, getting there but frustrating for me.
Seems like some botomless tokens might help you. They make the travel more progressive, so in the beginning it can feel more smooth, but stiffen when doing big hits and going further into travel
If you don't have a ring use a dab of grease it will show a perfect line
Good tip!
I’m here for the syd rants 😂😂😂😂🔪👊🏻
Fox rear shock absorber and front shock absorber are the best 🎉🎉
Shimano makes the best Breakes and Gears and best by far crank set 🎉🎉🎉🎉
Trust me 😮😮😮😮
Best bike stand = Feedback Feedback Feedback alllllllllllll the wayyyyyyyyyyy. 😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉😊🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉
Syd, at 26:17 another way to think of the +/- of the orifice needle adjustment, is the + means increasing the oils resistance to moving from one chamber to another, aka a crowd at boxing day sales, trying to get through a smaller door, vs a larger one.
PS: I have some mechanical experience (cars), and this is what that hole is called, an orifice, or a JET/nozzle like in a fire hose, jet engine, a tapered hole of x size to control flow of fluids.
Sharpie on a Kashima shock??? Just use a zip tie!
Zip tie is way more likely to scratch your stantions, especially when you go to cut it off. Sharpie is harmless!
@@sydfixesbikes Oh okay. I have used zip ties a ton, and have never had any issues. I think Seth said in one of his videos that he just puts a zip tie on his forks if the o-ring falls off.
@@JustAGlitchFL it will be kinda tricky to put zip tie on rear coil shock atleast for me. take care
@@MKDSime well it wouldn't work the best for coil, but it is easy for air.
@@sydfixesbikes Also, you can just cut it off at the head, so there is pretty much no chance of scratches.
Thanks for the explanation of these things!! Very informative!!
Your explanation of the parts which represent the slow and fast rebound regarding to areas on the fork legs is backwards. The lower part is the part where slow rebound is relevant and the upper part is the one where fast rebound is relevant. Also The rebound should NOT feel the same front and back. The back always has to be slower than the front, or you will be kicked over the bars if you try to jump over anything.
26:45 why do both HSC and LSC knobs turn together when you were only turning one of them? Sorry I’ve been a Rockshox guy but just got a Fox 38 and it does that too.
I have an older fox float RP2 shock. I completed a rebuild and I can definitely feel a huge difference now. The only thing now is the lock out will not “lock out” curious what I need to do? Any help would be greater accepted.
It went together easily in less than an hour. th-cam.com/users/postUgkxHL1v1R3NE5x4KiYfyt8dnQmyNYz7qi5L Make sure the front fork is forward or the pedals will hit the front tire. Tires are both a little soft so it needs air before I ride it. The rear wheel didn't come with a clamp regular bolts hold it on. The front had the clamp. No scratches out of box. Rims are a little off with a slight wobble. They could have spent more time with the spoke tool fixing the run out. So far out of the box I'm happy with it. I did replace the pedals with a nice aftermarket set. After riding it a bit my A$$ is a bit sore so I ordered another seat. Overall I'm nearly 60 and didn't ride a bike in 30 years. I like my new 29" Schwinn. It will be used for casual rides with my friend.
Just gotta make the point, rebound speed is highly dependent upon terrain ie "the distance between rocks". There is no perfect setting. Same applies to compression ie 'size of the rocks"... the factors in adjustment are highly variable and mixed together and may change multiple times in a short distance. It's a dark art that is up to personal preference at any given time without perfection.
like Where do I want to buy a fox cap..in Malaysia such a cap has two lines on the edge very many people wear, And what is the price of the cap? sory girl I overlooked your stamp while this video has been a year he youtube thank you boss..stay safe and stay at home omicron 😷 very dangerous now..I hope we are all protected From COVID-19
Thanks.. You 2 work well together. Syd is great at fronting it.
Cool retro hat. Reminds me of living in the age of single digits. Cheers
The sad part of your intro, I understood you just fine.
Thank you for your explanation. I understand better.
A zip tie around the shaft of your shock is a great replacement for the rubber O ring.
Could rename your video explanation of how a fork works.
Review the cube stereo 160
Emtb!!!!
If you don't have an oring use a zip tie
Thanks Syd! This was great! On to the second video. You guys makes such great, informative and relatable content…please don’t stop!