Thanks soo much!!! It seems like I have watched a million videos on the subject, but you guys actually explain it in a way that is straight forward and understandable. Keep up the great vids because they have really help!!! I can’t wait for the next suspension video!!!
Great job of explaining how the settings work and what they do in layman’s terms. I put zip ties around my fork/shock when I lose an o ring. It works great.
Awesome video, guys! Very thorough. One of the best ways I've found to think about low and high speed compression is this: Low speed is when your bodyweight is the primary moving force on the suspension (like a g-out compression or pedal bob). High speed is when the terrain is the primary moving force (rocks, roots, trail "roughness"). It's not a perfect explanation, but helps to separate the two.
Oh boy, make a video about suspension and all the super duper advanced uber-tuners come out! I think some people missed the point of the video (and perhaps the whole channel). It’s just to help people get a grasp on the basic adjustments and have some confidence and direction for adjusting their own bike. A lot of people, at least in the biking world, are hesitant and confused about suspension adjustments, when they could gain a lot of enjoyment and confidence from having a tune anywhere near correct. I think this video works well to present the ideas in a relaxed, conversational way. People talking about cracking into the shim stacks and particular physics behind oil flow. It’s not like every derailleur adjustment video requires a deep dive into relative merits of cable pull ratios, double vs single sprung pivots, low vs top normal, half-step gearing, slant vs straight parallelograms, and etc... (though now I guess we are back to straight parallelograms with 1x like it’s some new-fangled revelation 😂). Get too technical too fast and you just get glazed eyes. Gee whiz.
I think it helps to point out the nature of the fork - it's a spring that can be compressed and stores energy. This helps when trying to explain compression and rebound to folks. For compression, the square edge hit (curbs, rock ledges) vs. slow gradual undulations (gentle whoops, for example) are great ways to explain high and low speed compression... it's all about the rate at which the spring is compressed. Similar for rebound in that a compressed spring stores energy, and the quantity stored helps determine the acceleration as it expands. A deeply compressed spring will want to expand rapidly with a mass attached... high speed rebound slows that down. Similarly, a shorter compressed spring (less energy) will not be able to expand as quickly and accelerated the mass (bike + you), and so this would be a slower rebound & low speed compression. Another thing to keep in mind is that suspension doesn't just work based upon a rod blocking oil passing through a fixed size hole... but modern suspension (especially higher end coil forks/shocks - this is all straight from motorcycling/autosports) often incorporates a stack of metal shims, commonly known as the valving. Changing the shim stack (how many pieces of metal, their arrangement, their dimensions & stiffness) can change the low and high speed compression/rebound.... and then you start to learn that the compression and rebound systems are also linked... and down the dark black hole you go. At the end it's all physics, and we're just trying to control the contraction & expansion rates for a damped spring system.
You guys freakin rock! I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how bikes work, then I started watching your videos and on almost every one I had an aha moment. I will be riding a very different “bike” in the near future and even though it’s not even close to what your other followers are probably riding the basic rules still apply. I am amazed at how well both of you explain things! I was in retail mgmt for 30 years, and the way I taught people was similar but you do a much better job than I. I’m so impressed how well you two work together, and how honest you seem to be. Honesty is very hard to come by now a days. I hope that you continue this channel because you are truly helping people. Thank you!
Love your learning journey. I think sometimes more experienced presenters make assumptions about pre-existing knowledge. I think your process of learning these things and putting them through the filter of your brain (your brain being that of a rider) is the perfect translator to match your implicit knowledge of the mechanical functioning on a bike to the explicit knowledge required for all of us to figure out what bits and bobs need to be tweaked. I've seen other videos that attempt to explain rebound and they almost always make it more complicated than it actually is (which to me is also an indicator that they don't really understand both the mechanical and dynamic riding perspectives of what's going on... that is they can't clearly translate how each adjustment will manifest on the trail where as you do an excellent job of that). I've been a roadie for 38+ years so suspension is new to me... and a bit overwhelming. I'm bottoming out a bit and was going to swap out the air shaft on the front fork to get me another centimeter or two of travel BUT, after watching this video I think there's other possibilities I need to exhaust first before making a change that would also modify the geometry of the bike. Thanks, Syd!
I have thoroughly enjoyed your channel, I am Director of Programs at Bridge II Sports and I have learn a lot that I have been able to apply to our cycles for the adapted cycling program.
Another great video. Love the analogy with hand motions and sounds. When watching the FOX MTB channel at races, most of the racers try to explain how their suspension is functioning with hand motions and sounds, quite entertaining!!!
Syd, at 26:17 another way to think of the +/- of the orifice needle adjustment, is the + means increasing the oils resistance to moving from one chamber to another, aka a crowd at boxing day sales, trying to get through a smaller door, vs a larger one. PS: I have some mechanical experience (cars), and this is what that hole is called, an orifice, or a JET/nozzle like in a fire hose, jet engine, a tapered hole of x size to control flow of fluids.
Great video. You guys are the best at explaining the mechanics of the parts. First you taught me derailleur adjusting. And now i understand shocks a helluva lot more!!!
You did an awesome job explaining suspension! Thank you! I watched several videos on this topic including gmbn and worldwide cyclery and could not understand this fully until watching this!
also Syd, the high speed compression would also occur during emergency brake applications, that is where the full riders and bikes weight (CG) is shifted forwards, due to inertia, when stopping, all the weight is on the front, and off the rear.( hence the "dive" trim when stopping).
great tutorial, very practical, fun to watch, thank you!! You could say: high-speed compression is for hard hits, slow speed compression is for ... 'soft' hits ???
to avoid loss of pressure I recommend buying a "dual valve" shock pump like the SKS Sam cons: very small dial not enough details to have precise pressures pros: braided metal tube and design that doesn't force on the tube when you pump (my previous one was inline with the tube ended up leaking from it) it easily goes to really high pressures I put 21bars instead of 210psi by mistake (304psi) and....it has a dual valve system, the part connecting to the fork port is in two segments, you split them before screwing on the bike, then screw part1 then part2 which opens the tubing and pump, when you're done you unscrew part2 sealing the fork port from the pump tube and then part1 so you lose a tiny portion of the pressure in the remaining 0.6" you unscrew
I understand most of what your saying, my trouble is Fox recommended settings are off to begin with, I get it close then check this, that over terrain feels good, then I hit some chatter on trail then about get bucked off, so I give it more compression, then slower high speed rebound and it does a little better but worst on other terrain, getting there but frustrating for me.
Seems like some botomless tokens might help you. They make the travel more progressive, so in the beginning it can feel more smooth, but stiffen when doing big hits and going further into travel
Great video, I understood the suspension terms and settings before, but I understand them better and it makes more sense to me now having you walk through all of the settings and how they work together. I look forward to watching Part 2!
syd great video on proper setting of ur shock .rebound etc however what about doing a video on the setting of a cannondale lefty fork .rite know a get a lot of stickion .or some time not enough rebound or not properly compression setting
As long as you use it inside-out. Otherwise, you'll have to cut it off and doing so risks scratching your shock (much worse than getting some market on it).
instead of a sharpie or a o-ring, you could use a ziptie and flip it the other way around so you can just take i off afterwards instead of having to cut it.
Thanks for the video. I really like this channel and the info you provide. I have to say though that to me, this video didn't seem quite as well organized as your others. I feel like you should have given an overall description of the three types of movement and how they all interplay and THEN gone into how to set them each. Instead, you described how to change the settings and then explained the reasons - except that I don't think you ever explained why you set sag did you? The explanations on rebound and compression were really good. I just think it should have come before you got into the mechanics of changing them.
I have an older fox float RP2 shock. I completed a rebuild and I can definitely feel a huge difference now. The only thing now is the lock out will not “lock out” curious what I need to do? Any help would be greater accepted.
Thanks for the tips. It has been educational for me. I have a question. I think I was under inflated on my shock on Wednesdays race. It kept bottoming out hard on g outs. Will having under inflated shock also rob pedaling efficiency? This bike seemed much harder to get rolling out of turns compared to my HEI HEI and seemed to wear me out much quicker.This bike is my new to me niner jet 9 rdo. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Syd and Macky. 👍👊
Yup, too much sag (under inflated shock) will definitely make your pedaling less efficient. And if you were bottoming out on g-outs I'd say it was definitely low! We run ours at Niner's recommended sag based on the mark on the linkage bolt.
Goodness, I've watch a ton of suspension set up videos and this one is extremely well done. Unfortunately, my newbie brain just can not grasp the purpose/benefit of setting the 'Sag'. To me, it just seems like a less aggressive version of 'compression'. For instance, what would be the negative effect if you were to just 'kill 2 birds' and skip 'Sag' by going straight to 'compression'? Wouldn't the larger range setting of Compression cover the Sag range? Signed...well confused. 😆
Sag is a static measurement (the amount of suspension compression at rest with the rider on the bike). It's only useful as a setup measurement. Compression is the rate that the suspension compresses under different conditions. It can't be measured statically. Does that help at all?
26:45 why do both HSC and LSC knobs turn together when you were only turning one of them? Sorry I’ve been a Rockshox guy but just got a Fox 38 and it does that too.
Fit4 has low speed + lockout (which affects the compression all the way through the stroke) while Grip2 has both high and low speed but no lockout. So hard to compare them...
Hi Syd - I really appreciate your videos. Question - I have a Niner Rip 9 (2020) and just got a cane Creek coil shock and am still shopping for the coil - would you recommend I start with a linear coil or progressive, given the CVA suspension’s unique leverage curve that appears to be regressive at the end, was thinking progressive might be a better option?
You already explained that it is related time that your suspension compresses and that is related to the speed. The Faster you are the faster you want your suspension to rebound or uncompress between bumps.
S&M, appreciate the update on Niner suspension. On another note, I notice you have a chain guide on your Niner. Is that necessary or a personal choice? I ride in the mountains of Phoenix & Tucson as well as Sedona and St George. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Blue skies, Jg
Personal choice. 12 speed no-drop systems with clutches are pretty good at keeping chains on, but we like the extra security. We'd recommend not worrying about it unless you find yourself dropping your chain more than once every few months.
I never really know what I'm supposed to be feeling regarding suspension. I ride a hardtail, so only the front applies of course. I find a 20 mile ride is a very hard workout for my upper body. I'm not complaining coz its given me some nice biceps and shoulders, but I have often wondered if my suspension should be more responsive to give a smoother ride.
20 miles is nothing to scoff at, but it does sound like maybe your fork could be a bit less harsh... Check out the part 2 of this series for some ideas!
When doing the initial rebound setup, are you leaving you weight on the handlebars as you test to see if the wheel is popping up or are you completely unweighting the front end?
Good video. You mentioned that sag for a DH bike should be 35 -40%. What if I want to set up my Santa Cruz Bronson (enduro) with that sag rate? What happens? Is that a bad thing? A good thing? :)
Most likely you'll just find you get more pedal bob and it won't be as efficient climbing. You may also find that you end up bottoming out your suspension because the reason DH bikes can run such high sag is because they have so much travel, even compared to a big Enduro bike.
Thanks! Now...on one trail, the suspension feels amazing...then, on another trail which is highspeed washboard, the bike feels so chattery. With that, should I speed-up rebound on that type of high speed, hard-pack washboard singletrack?
Assuming you have a low speed compression, you might want to decrease that. That should help with the chatter (chatter is a low speed compression setting because the shock only moves a small amount). Speeding up the rebound could also help, but might make the bike feel worse (like a pogo stick) on the first trail.
If you're setting rebound based on Fox's recommended settings, it shouldn't matter. If you're using the "compress and release" method to set it, you want to have the Grip2 compression settings set to what you normally run.
If this video was helpful and saved you time and/or money, consider supporting the channel by hitting the "Thanks" button above to leave a tip.
Thanks soo much!!! It seems like I have watched a million videos on the subject, but you guys actually explain it in a way that is straight forward and understandable. Keep up the great vids because they have really help!!! I can’t wait for the next suspension video!!!
Thank you for using small words I could understand. I leave this video with a much better understanding of my bike's suspension.
Great job of explaining how the settings work and what they do in layman’s terms. I put zip ties around my fork/shock when I lose an o ring. It works great.
Awesome video, guys! Very thorough. One of the best ways I've found to think about low and high speed compression is this: Low speed is when your bodyweight is the primary moving force on the suspension (like a g-out compression or pedal bob). High speed is when the terrain is the primary moving force (rocks, roots, trail "roughness"). It's not a perfect explanation, but helps to separate the two.
Oh boy, make a video about suspension and all the super duper advanced uber-tuners come out! I think some people missed the point of the video (and perhaps the whole channel). It’s just to help people get a grasp on the basic adjustments and have some confidence and direction for adjusting their own bike. A lot of people, at least in the biking world, are hesitant and confused about suspension adjustments, when they could gain a lot of enjoyment and confidence from having a tune anywhere near correct. I think this video works well to present the ideas in a relaxed, conversational way.
People talking about cracking into the shim stacks and particular physics behind oil flow. It’s not like every derailleur adjustment video requires a deep dive into relative merits of cable pull ratios, double vs single sprung pivots, low vs top normal, half-step gearing, slant vs straight parallelograms, and etc... (though now I guess we are back to straight parallelograms with 1x like it’s some new-fangled revelation 😂). Get too technical too fast and you just get glazed eyes. Gee whiz.
Hear hear! 🍻
I think it helps to point out the nature of the fork - it's a spring that can be compressed and stores energy. This helps when trying to explain compression and rebound to folks. For compression, the square edge hit (curbs, rock ledges) vs. slow gradual undulations (gentle whoops, for example) are great ways to explain high and low speed compression... it's all about the rate at which the spring is compressed. Similar for rebound in that a compressed spring stores energy, and the quantity stored helps determine the acceleration as it expands. A deeply compressed spring will want to expand rapidly with a mass attached... high speed rebound slows that down. Similarly, a shorter compressed spring (less energy) will not be able to expand as quickly and accelerated the mass (bike + you), and so this would be a slower rebound & low speed compression.
Another thing to keep in mind is that suspension doesn't just work based upon a rod blocking oil passing through a fixed size hole... but modern suspension (especially higher end coil forks/shocks - this is all straight from motorcycling/autosports) often incorporates a stack of metal shims, commonly known as the valving. Changing the shim stack (how many pieces of metal, their arrangement, their dimensions & stiffness) can change the low and high speed compression/rebound.... and then you start to learn that the compression and rebound systems are also linked... and down the dark black hole you go.
At the end it's all physics, and we're just trying to control the contraction & expansion rates for a damped spring system.
I appreciate the sacrifice made to get all those "rocks" for the compression example :) Nice work you two!
We do our best 😁
There’s no pebbles in Taos...bottle caps were the only possibility
I just learned more in 30 minutes than I have in 25 years of trying to adjust the suspensions on my mountain bikes.
Great video! I like how y'all broke down the terms and explained things in a simple way. Very helpful and I look forward to the next video.
You guys freakin rock! I thought I had a pretty good understanding of how bikes work, then I started watching your videos and on almost every one I had an aha moment. I will be riding a very different “bike” in the near future and even though it’s not even close to what your other followers are probably riding the basic rules still apply. I am amazed at how well both of you explain things! I was in retail mgmt for 30 years, and the way I taught people was similar but you do a much better job than I. I’m so impressed how well you two work together, and how honest you seem to be. Honesty is very hard to come by now a days. I hope that you continue this channel because you are truly helping people. Thank you!
Thanks for the kind words!
Love your learning journey. I think sometimes more experienced presenters make assumptions about pre-existing knowledge. I think your process of learning these things and putting them through the filter of your brain (your brain being that of a rider) is the perfect translator to match your implicit knowledge of the mechanical functioning on a bike to the explicit knowledge required for all of us to figure out what bits and bobs need to be tweaked. I've seen other videos that attempt to explain rebound and they almost always make it more complicated than it actually is (which to me is also an indicator that they don't really understand both the mechanical and dynamic riding perspectives of what's going on... that is they can't clearly translate how each adjustment will manifest on the trail where as you do an excellent job of that). I've been a roadie for 38+ years so suspension is new to me... and a bit overwhelming. I'm bottoming out a bit and was going to swap out the air shaft on the front fork to get me another centimeter or two of travel BUT, after watching this video I think there's other possibilities I need to exhaust first before making a change that would also modify the geometry of the bike. Thanks, Syd!
I really liked your bottle cap explanation about rebound. It really made alot of sense.
Remember to unlock any platform (eg trail setting) and do all of that work the suspension open.
Great high and low speed explanation!
I have thoroughly enjoyed your channel, I am Director of Programs at Bridge II Sports and I have learn a lot that I have been able to apply to our cycles for the adapted cycling program.
Another great video. Love the analogy with hand motions and sounds. When watching the FOX MTB channel at races, most of the racers try to explain how their suspension is functioning with hand motions and sounds, quite entertaining!!!
Syd, at 26:17 another way to think of the +/- of the orifice needle adjustment, is the + means increasing the oils resistance to moving from one chamber to another, aka a crowd at boxing day sales, trying to get through a smaller door, vs a larger one.
PS: I have some mechanical experience (cars), and this is what that hole is called, an orifice, or a JET/nozzle like in a fire hose, jet engine, a tapered hole of x size to control flow of fluids.
Thank you! I have been struggling to set up my suspension all summer. My front is feeling so much better after this!
Great video. You guys are the best at explaining the mechanics of the parts. First you taught me derailleur adjusting. And now i understand shocks a helluva lot more!!!
Finaly!!!! Seen much vids about how to set the suspension but your the first one who came also with the why. Great info thanks🤙🏽🤙🏽
Thanks Syd! This was great! On to the second video. You guys makes such great, informative and relatable content…please don’t stop!
Another great video. However I am so confused lol. Think I need to watch again after I've had sleep
You did an awesome job explaining suspension! Thank you! I watched several videos on this topic including gmbn and worldwide cyclery and could not understand this fully until watching this!
Thanks, Syd! Out of all the videos I found, this one was the most helpful one!!
A hack to measure the sag is algo using a ziptie or something that stays in place and don't scratch the fork
Love how you keep it light n funny, but hitting key points. Now you just need to have stickers made that say "Large Bump Compression "😂
Thanks.. You 2 work well together. Syd is great at fronting it.
The Syd sound effects are the best!
I really like this vid. You are both doing an amazing job of explaining MTB mechanics. I look forward to your future videos.
I searched your channel for a video like this yesterday... it’s like you guys know what your viewers need. Thanks
Does everyone agree Fox needs to "man up" and copy Rockshox and add sag % on the shock tubes
They cant from my understanding due to rockshox parent that prevents it
I personally prefer the cleaner look of Fox.
Patent ruin all
I have rockshox without the markings... it ain't hard to use a sharpie and a ruler
@@starsky8351 patent for markings
also Syd, the high speed compression would also occur during emergency brake applications, that is where the full riders and bikes weight (CG) is shifted forwards, due to inertia, when stopping, all the weight is on the front, and off the rear.( hence the "dive" trim when stopping).
great tutorial, very practical, fun to watch, thank you!! You could say: high-speed compression is for hard hits, slow speed compression is for ... 'soft' hits ???
I’m new. Your comment is the first thing I’ve understood!
Great real-world explanation guys. Love Syd's workshop look😊
I needed this explained cause I am about to get my first MTB soon. I can't wait to get it. Love your channel. Thank you both so much.
What bike is it?
Another great video especially for a noob like me, can’t wait for the next one 🚵♂️ 😀
Thanks for the explanation of these things!! Very informative!!
You can also use a cable tie to measure sag, but put it on backwards so you can undo it again
you can also use a zip-tie that has a release/re-useable clip when / if you don't have a o-ring on your shock.
to avoid loss of pressure I recommend buying a "dual valve" shock pump like the SKS Sam cons: very small dial not enough details to have precise pressures pros: braided metal tube and design that doesn't force on the tube when you pump (my previous one was inline with the tube ended up leaking from it) it easily goes to really high pressures I put 21bars instead of 210psi by mistake (304psi) and....it has a dual valve system, the part connecting to the fork port is in two segments, you split them before screwing on the bike, then screw part1 then part2 which opens the tubing and pump, when you're done you unscrew part2 sealing the fork port from the pump tube and then part1 so you lose a tiny portion of the pressure in the remaining 0.6" you unscrew
That hat is awesome I’m bummed I can’t find one anything like it! Love your videos you guys inspire me so much !thank you!
Here you go: shop.ridefox.com/collections/accessories/products/fox-heritage-trucker-hat-black
Fantastic job of explaining things! Great job :)
I can't tell you how helpful and funny and helpful and funny and helpful (and funny) this is!
Don't have time to watch rn but already want to thank you cause this is exactly what I need.
I’m here for the syd rants 😂😂😂😂🔪👊🏻
That was EXTREMELY helpful. Thanks guys.
Thank you for your explanation. I understand better.
I understand most of what your saying, my trouble is Fox recommended settings are off to begin with, I get it close then check this, that over terrain feels good, then I hit some chatter on trail then about get bucked off, so I give it more compression, then slower high speed rebound and it does a little better but worst on other terrain, getting there but frustrating for me.
Seems like some botomless tokens might help you. They make the travel more progressive, so in the beginning it can feel more smooth, but stiffen when doing big hits and going further into travel
A zip tie around the shaft of your shock is a great replacement for the rubber O ring.
I feel safer whit slow rebound and maybe 15-20 % sag max in front I ride a new agresive hardatail i want my tire stick to the ground I'm bad?
Good job! The best shock/suspension video ever!!
Thanks for sharing, awesome tutorial as always, 😌😁
Paging Jordi Cortes!
Seriously though, good video :)
Great video, I understood the suspension terms and settings before, but I understand them better and it makes more sense to me now having you walk through all of the settings and how they work together. I look forward to watching Part 2!
syd great video on proper setting of ur shock .rebound etc however what about doing a video on the setting of a cannondale lefty fork .rite know a get a lot of stickion .or some time not enough rebound or not properly compression setting
you can use a ziptie temporarily instead of sharpie.
As long as you use it inside-out. Otherwise, you'll have to cut it off and doing so risks scratching your shock (much worse than getting some market on it).
Nice video. Sound effects too!
instead of a sharpie or a o-ring, you could use a ziptie and flip it the other way around so you can just take i off afterwards instead of having to cut it.
Great Job!! Newbie here and this was one of the best explanations I have found! Looking forward to part 2. Keep up the GREAT work!
Awesome video guys very helpful and informative 👌
Very good explanation syd.
Thank you.
Could always use a dry erase board marker, it would wipe off easily
I really needed this video.
Thanks, y'all.
Thanks for the video. I really like this channel and the info you provide.
I have to say though that to me, this video didn't seem quite as well organized as your others. I feel like you should have given an overall description of the three types of movement and how they all interplay and THEN gone into how to set them each. Instead, you described how to change the settings and then explained the reasons - except that I don't think you ever explained why you set sag did you?
The explanations on rebound and compression were really good. I just think it should have come before you got into the mechanics of changing them.
never heard of stacking up, only heard of packing up
This video is so helpful! thank you so much!
I have an older fox float RP2 shock. I completed a rebuild and I can definitely feel a huge difference now. The only thing now is the lock out will not “lock out” curious what I need to do? Any help would be greater accepted.
I think you were happy with the rebound on the rear shock but how do you adjust it?
YOU. B. RAD !!!!!
GOOD. ON. TIPS!!!!
i have a santa cruz nomad and the coil shock is hidden in the VPP tunnel... JEEEEZZUZZZ
really jealous that you still have a set of '06 big troubles. I skied mine into the ground but they lived a god life.
Thanks for the tips. It has been educational for me. I have a question. I think I was under inflated on my shock on Wednesdays race. It kept bottoming out hard on g outs. Will having under inflated shock also rob pedaling efficiency? This bike seemed much harder to get rolling out of turns compared to my HEI HEI and seemed to wear me out much quicker.This bike is my new to me niner jet 9 rdo. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Syd and Macky. 👍👊
Yup, too much sag (under inflated shock) will definitely make your pedaling less efficient. And if you were bottoming out on g-outs I'd say it was definitely low! We run ours at Niner's recommended sag based on the mark on the linkage bolt.
@@sydfixesbikes I wound up putting 30 more psi in it. WOW!! A totally different machine. Thanks for verifying. 👍
Old roadie taking the XC plunge. Find you guys enormously informative and entertaining.
I’d use a zip tie over a marking pen to measure sag, easy to remove, and moveable 😎
Goodness, I've watch a ton of suspension set up videos and this one is extremely well done.
Unfortunately, my newbie brain just can not grasp the purpose/benefit of setting the 'Sag'.
To me, it just seems like a less aggressive version of 'compression'.
For instance, what would be the negative effect if you were to just 'kill 2 birds' and skip 'Sag' by going straight to 'compression'?
Wouldn't the larger range setting of Compression cover the Sag range?
Signed...well confused. 😆
Sag is a static measurement (the amount of suspension compression at rest with the rider on the bike). It's only useful as a setup measurement.
Compression is the rate that the suspension compresses under different conditions. It can't be measured statically.
Does that help at all?
brilliant, as always
26:45 why do both HSC and LSC knobs turn together when you were only turning one of them? Sorry I’ve been a Rockshox guy but just got a Fox 38 and it does that too.
Great job, I feel like I’m better prepared!
Excellent, a much easier way to understand the dark art ! Thank you
Where did you get black walled Martello tires? They are usually gray.
How often do you need to check your sag usually? Thank you!
We generally set it and forget it
This was super informative. Looking forward to part 2.
Thanks for the video. How would you compare h and l speed compression settings between a grip2 and a fit4 fork?
Fit4 has low speed + lockout (which affects the compression all the way through the stroke) while Grip2 has both high and low speed but no lockout. So hard to compare them...
Maybe us a dry erase marker instead of a sharpie? Just a thought, not sure how it would work
Very well done. Cannot wait for part 2. Thank you :)
Hi Syd - I really appreciate your videos. Question - I have a Niner Rip 9 (2020) and just got a cane Creek coil shock and am still shopping for the coil - would you recommend I start with a linear coil or progressive, given the CVA suspension’s unique leverage curve that appears to be regressive at the end, was thinking progressive might be a better option?
Yeah, progressive probably makes more sense.
AC Mackey hey man how are you guys been bike riding you guys are pretty cool that's why I watch you if you were cool I
i have a mtb, how do i know if there is air in there or not, or if i can change to pressure or not ?
Cool retro hat. Reminds me of living in the age of single digits. Cheers
Review the cube stereo 160
Emtb!!!!
You already explained that it is related time that your suspension compresses and that is related to the speed. The Faster you are the faster you want your suspension to rebound or uncompress between bumps.
S&M, appreciate the update on Niner suspension. On another note, I notice you have a chain guide on your Niner. Is that necessary or a personal choice? I ride in the mountains of Phoenix & Tucson as well as Sedona and St George. Your opinion is greatly appreciated. Blue skies, Jg
Personal choice. 12 speed no-drop systems with clutches are pretty good at keeping chains on, but we like the extra security. We'd recommend not worrying about it unless you find yourself dropping your chain more than once every few months.
I never really know what I'm supposed to be feeling regarding suspension. I ride a hardtail, so only the front applies of course. I find a 20 mile ride is a very hard workout for my upper body. I'm not complaining coz its given me some nice biceps and shoulders, but I have often wondered if my suspension should be more responsive to give a smoother ride.
20 miles is nothing to scoff at, but it does sound like maybe your fork could be a bit less harsh... Check out the part 2 of this series for some ideas!
When doing the initial rebound setup, are you leaving you weight on the handlebars as you test to see if the wheel is popping up or are you completely unweighting the front end?
Completely unweighting
Good video. You mentioned that sag for a DH bike should be 35 -40%. What if I want to set up my Santa Cruz Bronson (enduro) with that sag rate? What happens? Is that a bad thing? A good thing? :)
Most likely you'll just find you get more pedal bob and it won't be as efficient climbing. You may also find that you end up bottoming out your suspension because the reason DH bikes can run such high sag is because they have so much travel, even compared to a big Enduro bike.
Thanks! Now...on one trail, the suspension feels amazing...then, on another trail which is highspeed washboard, the bike feels so chattery. With that, should I speed-up rebound on that type of high speed, hard-pack washboard singletrack?
Assuming you have a low speed compression, you might want to decrease that. That should help with the chatter (chatter is a low speed compression setting because the shock only moves a small amount). Speeding up the rebound could also help, but might make the bike feel worse (like a pogo stick) on the first trail.
Maybe I missed it, but When you set shock sag (fox dpx2) on a 3 position shock (soft, mid, firm) what setting do you use?
Always check sag in open (soft).
@@sydfixesbikes thank you!!! Keep it up, y’all are great!
Yesss! Love you guys!
ty ty ty ♡ Very well explained ! 👍
Should the grip2 be opened all the way (most supple) when setting the rebound? Seems like it should.
If you're setting rebound based on Fox's recommended settings, it shouldn't matter. If you're using the "compress and release" method to set it, you want to have the Grip2 compression settings set to what you normally run.
Nice approach to suspension. This really helps a lot.