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Have you seen how they inflate truck tires quickly without pump or compressor by just using gasoline and fire?

Actually the 30 teeth cog will help on the flats as well. That is the reason I changed from 32 to 30 teeth on the Cube 1x12 MTB. With 32 the gear choice on the flat was either too hard or too easy. Turns out after some calculation the ratio with perfect cadence for me is 1.9 rear/front. The 32 teeth gave me 1.8 or 2.0. Changing the front cog can really help putting power on the pedal. Improved climbing is always welcome. Your videos were found because I was searching for videos to convert my other MTB, a Giant Talon 1 from 2x11 to 1x12. Your videos are informative and entertaining. Thanks 👍

I wouldn't bother doing your repair because the your PU (ploy urethane) midsoles get "hydrolysis" at your boots' age which means the PU simply and completely disintegrates. Boot makers are well aware of this and don't mention it and it's not included under normal wear and tear and material defects warranty (which is complete BS because how is this not a completely bogus breakdown of materials). How's the repair holding up?

Are you still using your ZTTO wheel set?

Great looking ride. Adding it to my list. Thanks for the hard work on the video.

Great video

I gotta ask, whats with the rubber gloves?

This is the type of trails and riding i have been searching for since moving to BC. Beautiful

Eagerly waiting on update on how the wheels hold up with load on a trip :)

What a blast that was!

I'd never thought of using rubber cement Did a bit of research and that seems to be what cobblers use for glueing soles. I've always used freesole (now aquaseal SR). I'm not sure the CA glue is the tright product to seal however, as it sets brittle. Freesole woild probably work better as it sets flexible.

Not sure what that orange tape is like but the blue ztto rim tape sucks won't last more then a few months

With pedals, tighten toward the front of the bike. Simple way to remember. With BB's you tighten toward the rear of the bike.

Acetone is very good at breaking down the glue

Your 20l dry bag has its centre of mass further away from the handle bars (point of rotation) than an 8l bag. Meaning that the moment arm is much longer than the 8l bag. Without actual measurements, I would be say that the torque produced by your 3kg load in the 20l bag is higher than the torque from a 5kg in a 8l bag. Hence the rotation problem. Another issue to address, and one that perhaps Aeroe should have foreseen, Is the friction coefficient between the nylon restraining tapes and the handle bar, which I think works out at about 0.4, almost similar to that between nylon and snow, 0.3. To get a much higher friction values and thus reduce the chance of rotation you need to introduce a "stickier" material between the restraining tape and the handlebar. In my experience I've found that a short length of inner tube wrapped around (in this instance) the handle bars would be beneficial (you obviously have to cut the tube to fit it). And then mount the carrier, make sure the restraining bolts are done up TIGHT. Whilst I can't give you a torque value for the bolts, you should be able to see the rubber tube being compressed. It won't stop the rotation, but should slow it up. Why? Because you've got yet another problem, again exacerbated by having moved the centre of mass further from the point of rotation. This is caused by "impulse loading" of the mass in the 20l bag by the bumps on the road surface creating rapid up/down motion generating "impulses" in the system. Assuming the same mass the moment produced by a 20l bag would be much higher than that produced by a 8l bag. Particularly big bumps would momentarily overcome the static friction of the clamps starting rotation. Once started, rotation would continue, even with smaller bumps quickly following the large on, as you have overcome the static friction and moved into the realm of kinetic (moving) friction. Kinetic friction values are much lower between the same materials than they are for static friction. Basically once you've starting something sliding (or rotating), it takes less force to keep it sliding than it did to start it. The trick is to prevent it moving in the first instance. In a nut shell, try wrapping something compressible and sticky around the handlebars, then mount the rack. Do it up tight, visually sight the wrap compressing .Ditch the 20l bag, use a smaller one, move the centre of mass closer to the point of rotation (handle bars). And finally reduce the amount of mass you're carrying on the Aeroe mount.

Definitely doing this route next summer. Also big coincidence, I used to work with Toby. Say hi to him for me!

Great job editing the video. Another fantastic memory!

Do you have a Strava route?

There is a manufacturer in Europe that makes a universal piece ( i.e. for more than just the Aero cradle) very similar to that, it's licensed to an American artisan in the NE I think, don't recall the name.

Thank you for a very informative video. I am planning to ride this trail and your video was very helpful. 👍👍

a rubber bumpper ?

aeroe handlebar adapter would solve the issue

My handlebar crafle slips and is definitely an issue!

Closely examining the rim shape at 6:01 and can hardly call that rim non-tubeless.

17:28. It doesn't have to be straight. I filed my hub to fit road cassette and I did NOT do a great job. 11-34 is wobbly like Jim Carrey and works fine.

I'm not into carbon wheels either. The price ain't right for me.

The Adventure Route is such a great stretch of trail!

I want to ask you that if there was any space between the rim and tire before it worked

Take that thing to the gas station. F those hand pumps.

I'd fine tune the brake after the disc swap to have spot on contact of the pads with the discs. Of course going like that will eventually wear one side off more than the other. For the best brake performance you should target equal distance to the discs from both sides in the caliper and make sure that all 4 pistons come out equally far when pressing the brake lever. A lot of performance and braking power is lost when only some of the pistons push the pad against the disc, even more so if totally unevenly like when one side already contacts without even braking. Another issue with that is that it warps the disc under heavy use if the discs gets pushed off center. Those Shimano XT rotors are pretty good when it comes to heat dissipation. Spider is aluminium, outer ring is steel. They do warp pretty easily though since both used metals have different expansion coefficients. Regarding raw braking power, there should be a difference. There is a plus in leverage where the pads contact the discs. Bigger radius. Should be equivalent to the percentage of the increase in size.

I can give an update on the latest cradle versions: they don't have the fabric straps anymore, but metal straps covered in rubber railguard. As I haven't installed the cradle yet, I can't say if this solves the problem, but it looks solid at first glance.

Excellent video. Very informative and a pleasure to watch. Well done young man.

You can also just put sealant into the tube. You can still remove the presta valve and put sealant in with a syringe. It's really easy and clean. The sealant just falls into the presta stem. This does work. I've been doing it for a while with no problems. I fixed my nephew's flat tire by simply putting sealant in the tube and airing it up. It hasnt been flat since.

People coping with made in china parts just cause its cheap. Buy somthing japanese or european, problem solved....

I have shimano SM-MA F203P/PM adaptor for my 203mm ice tech it had an indentation instead of that straight bar for the caliper to seat into, ive left the code its not expensive 14 bucks! you'll get over heating until you change to a 4 piston set up just how it is with a single piston i got mine as standard on my new emtb front and rear absolutely outstanding its the calipers holding them back now

Magnesium in the center of the Ice Tech discs transfers the heat. I have them on mine as standard with 4-piston XT calipers. Once bedded in, they are amazing. Bedded in fast. A couple of rides around the park were done. The difference in the fronts is crazy stopping power.

I can't finish watching this video...🙄🥱😔

Can I use a tubeless tyre on a non-tubeless rim and just use an inner tube with it?

I ran into the same problem you did with the bolt length being too long when I switched to a different frame actually. Except my problem was more expensive because I bought some titanium bronze colored bolts so I now have $20 in titanium bolts just sitting in my parts bin. I ended up buying some shorter steel gold colored bolts on Amazon to replace them.

Get some Shimano brakes instead, you won't regret it.

Did you use a torque wrench to ensure that you had it tightened to the 4nm that they specify? Mine doesn’t move like that once I’ve tightened it to 4nm

Loosen up the caliper so it has a little movement then spin the wheel & fully apply the brake lever & keep it held on then tighten up the caliper whilst holding the brake Still on & when youre done they'll not bind at all. 👍🏻

I use rattle gun on 40nm😂

Good vid man. What compound pads are you using? I reckon the size upgrade is worth it but also maybe try a new pad with it and see if that makes a difference.

You have infinite patience

Great video showing what it’s like to ride this trail. Appreciate that you posted the distance and time you rode each day. I’ve had many “hike a bike” rides but now glad to get assistance from my Trek Dual Sport E-bike. With the extender battery attached you need to recharge the battery about every 42 miles if going uphill on gravel with full gear and in sport mode (one above eco mode). On level pavement my battery range is twice as good.😊

FWIW Aeroe seem to have new attachments to prevent this issue. I emailed them and they replied quickly saying they'll send them out for mine :)

You made your own problems in truth by attempting to do everything with tools that were "not quite correct" for the job. Your approach reminded me of trying to undo a bolt with the wrong socket. Everything is a challenge and what should be simple is slow and painful. A compressor would make a world of difference at the very least and the correct wheels as well. You did it all on a budget, so the pain of lost time and effort came with that. The correct items would conclude that task in 30 mins. I converted two wheels for example in under half an hour a few days ago.

Nice video, thanks for sharing

I'm still a little fuzzy on the concept. Tubeless gives better reliability? Tubeless saves weight? Just want to be clear. Nice video though and some good patience displayed. I probably would have done more throwing and swearing with that rear. Cheers.