LED night light with a USB charger (from Lidl)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ต.ค. 2019
- Today, let's take a look at a night light from Lidl supermarket. It's called just a night light, but it also has two 5V USB ports that can supply up to 2400mA (2.4A) in total. The night light can be switched on, off or to automatic (light sensor).
The mysterious 45R20 diode later turned out to be something completely unexpected! Let's see in another video...
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BLODY HELL, this is not DOGGY
هههههههههههه
Ha ha ha ha ha :))))))))))))))))))))))))).....!!!!!
0:14 a usb chargeeeeeeeeeeerrrrrr
@@luminumlx2604 LOL....:))))
And no explosion, and no need a fire extinguisher (beer).
greetings from Turkey. you are a very intelligent and good person.
Adam güzel güzel anlatmış
As Tiago Ferreira pointed out in the comments, the "mysterions diode" actually is a synchronous rectifier IC called DK5V45R20.
Chinese datasheet here: datasheet.lcsc.com/szlcsc/Shenzhen-DongKe-Semicon-DK5V45R20_C94728.pdf
On the block diagram on page 2 we can see two interesting elements :
The first is a capacitor. My guess is that it charges when the IC is reverse biased. When the IC is forward biased, the MOSFET turns on. But because its resistance is close to zero, there is no more voltage across the chip's pins. The MOSFET's gate is now polarized thanks to the capacitor. This means that *the chip needs to be periodically reverse polarized to operate*
The second is the diode between the source and drain of the MOSFET. When you were testing the forward voltage of the "diode" (which actually is an IC), the capacitor was discharged and the MOSFET wasn't conducting. This means that the forward voltage you measured is the one of the diode between source and drain, which should not conduct during normal operation.
This synchronous rectifier is probably what makes this power supply so efficient (90% efficiency). Computer power supplies have used synchronous rectifiers for quite some time as because of their low voltage (12V and 5V rails) the voltage drop of Shottky diodes had always been a major source of inefficiency.
It's amazing how much detailed analysis you can squeeze out of a simple switching USB supply! Giving a basic introduction while also mentioning details and loose ends one can investigate later on, when one has acquired that basic knowledge. Thank you!
I got exactly the same unit, bought from Lidl in Germany in 2019. Has been charging up my cell-phone and video camera for the last 4 years and it works flawless. Didn't even know about the auto light sensor since I watched your video.
I crack up every time he says "BLOODY HELLLLLLLLLLL" lmao
3:28 - 3:30 " it has thouuus special screuuus
@@Collector123k lmao
Yes he sounds like a north Scottish Islander from Lewis or Orkney!
All I can say about this video is WOW! Amazing analysis & explanation!
Thanks for sharing!
This was very interesting, but we need even more salt!
yep
Great job once again. Thanks for the tear down and schematic.
I like this vintage oscilloscope
Love your videos and sense of humor! looking forward to seeing more videos from you about different AC/DC, DC/DC and DC/AC typologies as most are Flybacks and half-bridge. Keep them coming!
Brillliant schematic explanation. Thanks !!!!
When its from Lidl you know its good
I'd like to add... *usually good, not always, but usually !
Lídl for the win.. XD
In general, the LIDL products are goods, not extraordinary but it respects the European standards and safety rules.
Usually good. I once had a look at a dodgy PIR spotlight from them and it wasn't recommended. Unfortunately the review of it isn't on this channel :p
Me at 01:00 : What a weird voice , thinking about skipping this Video
Me at 28:47 : Great guy, lotsa knowledge , Thorough , subbed :)
Great work as always.
It seems a really nice little unit :-D, the leds running at 50ma is plenty bright enough to illuminate a childs bedroom.
I'm impressed by the switchmode, the output voltage was excellent considering the lack of direct voltage monitoring, that transformer must be really good in design.
Perhaps over rated in wattage, so the usb voltage stays high under full load.
The long secondary wires keep it far away from the usb sockets, very smart.
Nothing will get across that slot lol :-D.
I'm glad you didn't tear down that transformer, it would be a shame to mess it up.
Your cat would agree, i know it lol.
Very nice and informative video as always!
Very interesting Video! I don't know very much about electronics but this video was very well explained, good job!
This guy is brilliant
Thanks for another amazing video!
Thanks .good explanation with that schematic illustration
That's quality stuff!
Vypadá to dobře, díky za rozebrání. :-)
Happy Lidl noices
Me: now I'm going to Lidl to get one
Lidl: STONKS
I love your videos👍
very good work maaaan !!
The only thing I can think of is that the 1kohm resistor makes the turn-off more gradual, maybe to avoid rapid switching when the light is close to the threshold?
Or maybe just to make the photo sensor have an easier time turning off the transistor?
Thank you
Happy Diwali
"torx with a hole in it" = Security Torx
Profesor....mil gracias por compartir su conocimiento...un fuerte abrazo desde Chiapas Mexico
Da da da da da da da...👏👏
love ur both temp meters
That was outstanding.
So, basically a cheap aftermarket phone charger that isn't deadly? What a great find!
This smaller outputcapacitor which gots hot (near the diode) is a solid state, so less a problem
slowly seeing more synchronous supplies with mosfet doing the diode job aswell, but pretty rare still.
Hi,
Tx for another interesting video! It’s nice to see that this charger/nightlight is of such a good quality compared to the ‘dodgy’ ones that you’ve reviewed. Although the 150mV ripple is still a bit high I think.
I was wondering, and maybe you can confirm, if your multimeter and your USB power meter are calibrated to each other. By that I mean: if connected to the same voltage, would they display the same? Tia
Conservator - unlikely that the USB meter has been calibrated, if it is like a very similar one that I got from eBay. They are cheap and cheerful indicators rather than proper test instruments.
Mark 1024MAK Hi,
Yes, I understand. What I meant was: did he check if both meters indicated the same (correct or incorrect) voltage when connected to the same lines.
This is important when comparing the values of the two and drawing a conclusion on the efficiency of the power supply.
If there was a difference of say 0.05V you could just adjust the measurements of one meter to make the measurements comparable to each other.
Great vid!
Wow, is the first time I see a open loop power supply (without feedback). It could be interesting to see the output voltage variations when the main voltage increases/decreases importantly.
It should not be affected by reasonable variations in mains voltage because it’s not open loop. It has primary side regulation via the auxiliary winding that also supplies the normal running power to the control chip. It does not have secondary side feedback. What it will not be good at, is variations in the volt drop through the secondary side components caused by variations in the load current. Also it may not be good with some types of dynamic loads.
Hey Dan your website page is amazing
Thank God! That's not a dodgy circuit!!
Great video, as always. The 1K resistor looks to me like a darlington base stopper to stop HF problems. I wonder if there are optical light feedback oscillations when room is dark - between LEDs and optic sensor? This can vary with room dimensions and surfaces reflectivity?
The photodiode or more likely, the phototransistor is likely to be rather directional. Try placing a piece of white card about 50cm to 100cm in front of it.
Thats very good. I have that one too and tested USB current up to 2A without any issues. This is DIode gone hot. Thats a ton of temperature mercury instruments :P
Maybe its fast diode🤔 i like your stunning perfect 👌 explanation... Thanks alot for your efforts... Please what you are study... You have great information about electronics..... 🚩 🚩 🚩 👍👍👍
The red marked capacitor is not an electrolytic, it's a low ESR dry capacitor out of polyester.
Would that mean it's more resistant to heat?
@@rpbajb Yes cause it's a dry electrolyte
@@kyoudaiken One more question, please? How can you tell it's a polyester and not a tantalum cap?
@@rpbajb I just know that red labeling indicates a dry capacitor of the polyester type. I don't know if tantalum has another color but most of the time it comes in a completely different SMD package. The ones that look more like big diodes. They're also yellow.
@@kyoudaiken Thanks. Luv ur screen name.
The LED night light with a USB charger is TUV approved.
LOL, no exploration.
Really like the approach.
Synchronous diode that take your night sleep 🤣🤣
Once, there was a short circuit in my neighbor's house. The electrician said that a charger shorted out. The lights in our house became dimmer. Probably, it was a dodgy charger with no fuse or snubber network. At that time, I remembered your video on fake apple charger with flames.
Please make a video on warp chargers , OnePlus warp charger ,it gives 6amps output ,insane amount
Lidl buyers seem to do their homework, I am generally impressed with the quality of the products they sell. Thanks for the interesting analysis.
Very good 👍
I wonder how the chip starts oscillating, when it doesn't have any start up resistor? I think it drops the voltage from the primary winding (built in diode in series with a resistor from the power transistor's drain to the aux. capacitor), and when the capacitor charges to some voltage, it starts oscillating
Thats niiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiice!
That capacitor and resitor in secondary bypass diode. Most probably to get defined timing, and aux coil detect pulse period when output caps discharge through secondary coil. The higher voltage on output the shorter charge pulse in secondary coil. Let say 5v would keep 1us pulse and controller need to keep this timing, then output voltage would be the same
Dík za test, koukal jsem tam na něj a dokonce si i říkal, že ho koupím a pošlu ti ho na test, ale když jsem tam došel znovu, už je neměli :( Aspoň vím, že když se příště ojeví, můžu to v klidu koupit a někomu věnovat :)
Danyk, you have the most interesting channel on switched mode power supplies.
I think that's a 450V, 20A fast diode. They also call them ultra-fast. It might have a "F" on the markings.
I think using an inductor input filter, prevents in rush current to rise too fast.
What I don't understand, is why is there such ringing from the transformer?
Still waiting for the vintage multimeter!
Also, a nightlight that emits blue-white light: the frequency range of light that interfere with sleep patterns!
Fantastic video and reverse engineering as usual Thank you
45R20 means 45V and 20A, very nice video, lots of work in that reverse engineer the design..
But is it a Schottky or a standard silicon diode?
@@TheSpotify95 low reverse voltage and high current in small packages = Schottky.
Someone pointed out in the comments that it's actually a synchronous diode. It's an IC which turns on a MOSFET when forward biased.
@@atmel9077 45R20 is a synchronous rectifier IC. 45V 20mOm
@@Olexsy952 Yes I know
Actually I saw a device which was very similar to the charging cube you showed once , but it also had a secret camera in it. Maybe you can order it and check it out ?
Very interesting , where did you get the special bit set? Looks handy.
I got it as a present years ago. It's really quite useful, unlike most of supermarket sets that contain just flat head, philips, hex and torx.
They probably watched all of your videos :D
Lidl has good products for good price. Can't argue with that.
I love your cat
GOOD PRESENTATION,I WOULD TRIM THOSE LEADS SHORTER ON THE CIRCUIT BOARD.ITS HARD FOR ME TO SEE BUT,SOME THE SOLDERING COULD BE BETTER.
OKAY
Solid PSU except for them skipping trimming the through hole component leads. No clippy boards for them!
Finally a decent USB power supply.
The cap near the USB connector was only rated 50v so it's not the mains. Although it is on the mains side of the circuit so could be hot.
3:28 na tyhle šroubky si můžeš koupit bity i v Lidlu :D
tu est trop fort , surtout avec l'accent anglais :) ,,,,,, from algeria!
what's the value of capacitor connected to PIN 3 of PN8370 and also the capacitor parallel to 45R20 diode?
It doesn't have a charging port controller. They are shorting D+ and D- instead, to signal a charging port to the device (so the device can sink more than 500mA). This is not standard, and fast charge might not work with some devices.
A night light only needs very very little light output. 3 x 15 mA Leds is much too bright in my opion and distrubs the sleep. I use ordinary SMD 5630 leds from strips and power them by a Li-ion battery with a 10 k resistor in series. So the current is around 0,1 mA which is still more than enough for me. The light is working for 24h every day for 2 years now without needing any recharging of the battery. The power consumption is less than the loss by leakage current! This is proabably the most efficient led night light you can build - and it will last for the rest of my life and more... :-)
great idea! i will try it out
Thanks
Dogggggggy...you awesome...
That sensor is LDR, light dependent resistor
Please review that cheap dodgy voltage meter pens/devices from ebay
Its super explenations !
Are you from Czech Republic?
Man, I can almost smell the indistinguishable smell of a brand new PCB.
Danyk, I wish to know how you measure the input watts with a normal multimeter. If you already did a video on that kindly post a link to that video
Sunil George Thomas - asked and answered much earlier in the comments...
Wow Made in Germany ?
And Good quality of course 👍
simple tek - it may have been specified, designed or commissioned in Germany, but made in China, Taiwan, Korea or another country in that part of the world.
Za germans ja? :-p
Haha, včera jsem koupil to samý :D
Ja som si ho chcel tiež kúpiť ale už bolo vypredané
@@lukmly013 hmm, většinou je to takhle, jakmile je v Lidlu něco s USB za celkem levno, tak je to hned prodaný :D
How is he measuring input power with the Multimeter set to 200mVDC 12:18?
How does your "watt meter" works? Do you have a video on that?
On his website
No startup power circuit for the chip?
EDIT_ Never mind. I looked up the data sheet. Starts directly from high voltage passed through the primary.
It would be interesting to see an analysis of some of the cheap Chinese variable voltage and amperage power supplies available for very little money on AliBaba.
good
Can you make variable power supply from cheap Chinese switching power supply?
Can those transformers be easily bought at digikey?
26:36 How does one figure out the voltage drop of that resistor?
A) measure it :)
B) with the assumption that the FV of the leds is 3V -> 5v - 3v = 2v drop
Knowing me, id probably try to mod it to use 18650's.
Not a bad lookin light.
Judging from the marking, the output diode is rated at 2Amps and 45 volts.
2A would be less that the 2.4A it says. Actually, this diode is not even a diode! I discovered it a bit later and I will make another video just about this component.
Even more transistorrrssss
Hahaha nice diode
how did you make your wattmeter ? i dont want to spent 100$ on a uni-t wattmeter
He used AD633 chip to sense voltage and multiply it by voltage across the shunt. danyk.cz
@@teslakovalaborator ah the good old P = U²
You can seek for cheap shields for arduino based projects. Try finding some board with the Analog Devices Energy metering Ics or harvest a watthour meter. This chips can be tuned into different current ranges. Or you can probably get a vintage wattmeter or pannel instrument.
@@38911bytefree i will try to build one in my channel, don't forget to subscribe
I HATE those damn "security" screws that try to stop you getting inside of things. Worst is when they use some weird type of screw but also its recessed far into the product and most types of driver with changeable bits are too wide diameter to fit down the hole. I ground a slot out of a regular flat head screwdriver to access the damn things.
It is possible to long reach screwdrivers, but unless you use them often, having a full set can be expensive.
Good
Challenge: Unwind the transformer to check it, then rewind it to make it work again. :)
I think it's worth a try
You're too smart
We like Lidl.