10W LED failure analysis + repair + schematic
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 26 ก.ย. 2024
- Today, let's analyze a weird failure of a 10W LED lamp, show what's inside, fix it and also reverse engineer the schematic and explain how does it work.
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Please never say that word "THIS IS MY LAST VIDEO" no one replace you......my heart just stopped....😄make new video with face in new camera or make video on your all diy projects collection...
LOL i saw your comment before i heard this so it was OK for me, but i understand that this can scare...
It scared me too 😬
There's no life without the word: "Dodgyyyy" 😄
@@matyasnyilas right! And his knowledge is just incredible!
My heart stopped beating for a moment too - and I have no complaints at all about the sound, the sound has been good for many years!
@@Zebra_Paw yes i saw others comments to but seriously that feels bad when someone who makes great videos and now stop making it.
You could have just used some wax to cover the dents in the capacitor. Gotta learn from the masters :)
I was sure that somebody will write this comment :D.
I wonder if a dented capacitor can short circuit and blow up, especially at 300V
@@BogdanSerban sure it can. Xackus referred to the first video on the 12V 20A 600W cheap power supply from Ebay that DiodeGoneWild made recently.
@@DiodeGoneWild 🤣🤣🤣😂
😂😂😂😂👍
"And this is my last video (silence)"....You almost shocked me to death ;-)
That was very cruel, Dany!
same here!
Same
I was already crying... This was the most cruel suspense pause i ever seen😭
However nice video as always! 💪
same
19:17 I nearley got a heart attack! :D I'm curious about the new quality of the videos. The content quality will probably stay very good.
When he said: "this is my last video ....... With this camera" my heart Jumped a bit :D
Same
IMO the audio and video quality with the older camera were perfectly fine.
Yep, fine for me too! I think that these days people just have to complain about things. We are creating a world of carpers/winge-ers/complainers.....and wimps! Pretty sad.
@@englishrupe01 Yes, the content is to me what is relevant. Of course, no one wants a video in 240p, these times are long gone. But the qualty of his videos were enough to see everything important and since he is just narrating, the sound quality is not really important, just use an headphone.
Yes, a 8K Video could be better if you watch your videos in a cinema, but most of us still have normal FullHD Monitors or are just using some mobile devices with 8-10cm Screen - why should you need more than 1080p on such devices.
I havn't even taught about that, since 99% av TH-cam videos (as well as TV-channels for example) have crap sound compared to what I'm used to...
He still have great content. That's the most important.
I am looking forward to better sound! When I watch diode on the tv or on my phone it's okay, but I tried watching with some decent headphones plugged in and there's lots of popping and crackle on the audio that makes it very hard to listen to. I was actually worried it would damage my headphones!
Audio quality only became noticeable when he mentioned it... I was way to distracted by the good quality content and his amazing cadence.
"Hey DGW...? Want a beer?"
DGW: "Actuallyyyyy.... TheCorrectQuestioniiiiiiis... DoIwantAlager....orApilsneeeeer?"
Cheers DGW! 😁
This is my last video.
You scared the Sh.. out of me....
You said ‘This is my last video” and my heart sank for a second
DideGoneWild: *plugs in LED with power supply with a capacitor 's dents filled with wax*
Power outlet: I've got a bad feeling about this
is this guy trying to ride on julian ilet's success? everyone boost this kid's channel, he is less annoying than ilett
I almost cried when he said this video is my last because but then i calmed down when he said with this camera
He basically meant that this is the last video he will record with that camera
Well done. 👍 I remember the autopsy and rebuilt of the power supply of my first computer, a C64. The power supply was complete in rosin too and I cut it slice by slice with a iron saw blade, free the PCB, trafo and some parts, replace broken parts and assembled all into a new housing. It worked. 🙂
19:17 What the heck, bro, are you trying to kill us?! Are you kidding us, guy? xDD
That output diode is truly a DiodeGoneWild
Never had any bad sound on any of your videos, using a laptop here.
I don't know about bad but sound is not what I would call high-def either. It is a bit muffled. We'll have to hear what the new content is like.
I have a 13w LIDL LED lamp that I have modified to use a big CPU heatsink. The heatsink gets pretty toasty in 1h or so. The original lamp had ZERO heatsinking. Absolutely nothing at all.
PS. I absolutely love your accent, please never think badly of it :)
I hope that the good old DiodeGoneWild's sound will not change that much... It's so... Origianl! :D
19:19 got us bruh
It's time the world demanded proper eco-friendly repairable electronics. These could be made repairable and manufacturers could offer a trade-in value against a new one where the old one was fixed and re-sold. We are screwing up this planet at an exponential rate and no one really does anything about it.
You are right.
What we do now is the most economically viable method. Sure there's downsides. But in the end low price always wins. Now will the cost always remain low? That's a question we really do not have to answer, yet. When future generations are up to their eyeballs in e-waste they'll probably curse us for the choices we made. It is more likely something else is going to happen that will collapse civilization between now and then though. Problem solved!
@@1pcfred I don't agree. Pouring that potting crap into those Lidl bulbs costs money. It is there to deliberately stop repair. Not putting it there would save the manufacturer time and money. Manufacturers are going out of their way to prevent repair simply to sell more product in future.
@@MikeB_UK that's why you think it is there. There may be another purpose for it though. Even if to just secure the board in place. The manufacturer already knows most consumers cannot be bothered trying to repair a disposable item like a light bulb. They couldn't anyways.
Your sophisticated list of tools now includes hacksaw too!😁
What are you talking about? Of course it's not a hacksaw, just the blade, with a piece of old t-shirt wrapped around one end. I absolutely love his ghetto style! Every time he whips out the Czechoslovakian soldering iron, I get flashbacks to my childhood.
*hacksaw blade. Not an entire hacksaw! :D
I think this is a great design with quality LEDs.
Back then, they did not know how long they last, so they made the LEDs beefy.
Now, they make them as cheap as possible. You'll be hard pressed to find big LEDs like these with 4 legs for heat spreading.
I never use the filament ones for that reason. No heat sink what so ever.
@@groundzero_-lm4md I heard they fill the filament bulbs with some special gas to provide somewhat better heat dissipation than what you'd get from air. Not sure if this is true though.
I still use two no-name LEDs bought in 2014. They work 6-8 hours a day and run without any problems. They utilize the small SMD LEDs, like 3825 or something. And the current is like 16-18 mA! No wonder they lasted so long, like 7 years already. Nowadays they pump twice that current in the LEDs, so it's not a suprise the lamps fail after a few months of intensive usage. Even the quality makers like Philips and Osram do that, not even mentioning current no-name brands. Times have changes, for worse I suppose, unfortunately :(
@@groundzero_-lm4md BigClivedotcom recently had a look at some special filament bulbs that used 4x the number of filaments compared to the normally obtainable ones - running each at amuch lower current for a much longer life
If interested, search for 'Dubai lamps'
Your English is getting very good
Looking forward to videos with the new camera! I didn't notice the audio quality til I watched a video with headphones... it's real bad.
Can't wait to hear your dulcet tones through the new mic!
I managed to fix a 2500lm 20W led bulb with similar construction, a lot of extremely annoying resin, but i opened it without destroying it and reassembled it!
It took me about 2 hours, but as i buy those lamps in a local shop for $25, and i really like their light, it was worth it.
The fault in mine was an inrush resistor, an SMD one and way too tiny forthe power. So small that it was blinking at a low power because of arcing across the pins of the resistor!
You just caused my heart skip a beat. Never make such dramatic announcement
record old camera teardown on new camera
I still plan to use the old camera, at least for a macro or for travelling.
@@DiodeGoneWild Use it for magnetron and X-ray experiments?Although im not sure if X-rays can damage a camera.
@@mernok2001 I think that X-rays are not very good for the electronics of the machine ... maybe the sensor holds up but the control logic (everything else) I don't think it's possible :-)
@@mernok2001 But he did say, that he would never repeat his X-ray experiments...
@@zolatanaffa87 Didn't thunderf00t stick a camera into a high energy neutron surce? Neutrons are basically natures miniature grenades... with just the same fuse time uncertainty.
11:45 Literally was fixing a small resistive heater, 240VAC, 2KW, fan was working but wasn't heating. Found a thermal fuse that was open-circuit in series with the resistive wire, removed it by clipping the leads and replaced it. Works. Measured the failed one that I removed again, and now it was fine. Literally fixed itself, and what's even weirder is that it was crimped on since soldering would kill it, I measured at the leads of it - blown, clipped the leads and take it out - not blown. 🤔
شكرا DiodeGoneWild على مجهوداتك 😊 فرصة ممتازة لاغناء معارفنا الالكترونية 😊 شرح جيد واحترافية بالهندسة العكسية 😈 مع اثقان للغة الانجليزية يجعل المحتوى ممتازا 😊😊😊👏
You can fix the dent of the electrolytic capacitor with wax, we clearly saw that it works! :D
that is a well constructed lamp. Great Video.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge in smps. A few weeks ago I repaired a HDMI LCD monitor that was thrashed away in my work, using what I have learned in your videos. Know it is at my home servicing has a TV.
15:40 the first electronics technician cat😀😀😀
Excellent and interesting video as always! My humble thanks Mr DiodeGoneWild.
2:35 That's what I thought shortly before cutting my hand... Try to scratch it with a knife to make sure - you cannot make a dent into glass.
6:58 this noise reminds me slims in minecraft... which proves that this is partly slime LOL
Lol
Hey, great Video! You could save the Lamp, if you put the PCB in a plastic Box, and mount the Heatsink with the LEDs on Top of it. There are two Screwholes! Finally you have a really special looking Desk Lamp... 😌
These videos are just like a tasty snack! Thaks @DiodeGoneWild !
Maybe the 1mm thick (?) PCB flexed during the disassembly and caused the diode bonding to fail due to mechanical stress. I have rewatched the diode measuring part of the video and the probes where on the pins of the the diode close to the top, not on the pads, so I think the diode was faulty. I have seen this failure mode before a couple of times, that goes away after heating but reapappears after some random time.
It didn't happen during the disassembly. The diode was probably already disconnected during the test before the disassembly. The lamp drew some current, but didn't light up, so the fusible resistor probably made contact that time.
@@DiodeGoneWild you are right! A good example of engineering logic. Thanks again!
"because you can't open it without some violence"
Hello Sir. Please complete the 12V, 50A power supply series with the full schematic description. Thanks!
Well, video is good and sound is also good.......at least for me. Nice work.
Thank you very much for the good repair trail and the good circuit explanation.
you could use hammer and a flat screwdriver for the screw base removement, and a small sharp knife for cutting the glue
BigClive must be traveling. His electrical outlets don't look right and he seems to have picked up a strange accent..
This is not bigclive LOL. I think DiodeGoneWild has better knowledge than bigclive anyway...
@@Zebra_Paw I think they both are experts in what they're going.
@@Zebra_Paw MORE SPECIALIZED KNOWLEDGE, you need to know the component level breakdown sometimes and a block level diagram others and sometimes you just need to see the insulation and number of windings on a transformer!
@@frogz yes and that's also why it is interesting to watch!
Great video, you could reassemble the lamp with an old E27 base from an incandescent lamp and perhaps some electrical conduit pipe and see how long it will hang in there.
Bro plz don't say this is your last video. Love from india.
Those bodges are pure art!
New camera looks nice. Your audio sounds perfectly fine to me !!! Best way to improve your audio, use an External Microphone, experiment with different locations and directions. File compression settings. BigClive will have the best advice.
The ironic thing is that even those these bulbs are more expensive than normal incandescent lights, they're supposed to save you money on bulbs as they're supposed to last allmost forever, but you actually spend more on bulbs because they keep breaking!
Agree. 😋
And i already stocked smd leds, caps n the chinese CC driver chip to fix them (n my neighbours lamps too).
I miss CFL bulbs
@@mernok2001 I don't. I don't miss those dim as all hell things at all. LED, Fluorescent and Incandescent are much better.
@@CoolDudeClem CFL is fluorescent bruh.Dont be surpries I miss them,I even miss vacuum tube TVs and radios despite im just 19,so i dodnt grow up with them.
Here is a funny story.
I had ceiling light with 4 led bulbs and one of them was from lidl and other 3 were some random bulbs and a few years back lightning struck the electrical pole and all bulbs except lidl one blew up. Lidl bulb works to this day and it is over 5 years old and survived lightning strike !!!
You have been doing very nice work please continue.
i always watch your video since you teardown samsung charger.. keep making a great video.. thankyou..
Where there is one bad solder joint, it is fairly common to find more.
The sound is good, very clear.
This is exactly what i hate in led lamps - they randomly last less than filament, due to having multiple points of failure, amplified for bad quality components/quality. And good luck finding another one equal after 1-2y. (this is even worse on public illumination they are now scrapping fully operational HPsodium lamps.
Then, although they could be repaired, they chose not to allow it/difficult it. On top of this, filaments are now completely forbidden to be sold.
And c'mon, unless you are lighting up a christmas tree during all year, what are the real savings?
I've also had/tried to repair 3+ lamps over last few years, with mixed results. Thank you for the video.
this diode is definitely gone wild ;D
И ты тут) Я тебя часто вижу на канале Изи
@@ЯСуперСтар я ещё много где!
Yay!!! enjoyed this one Diode!
i hate when they fail specially early. i still got ones kinda like this one but 11 years old and still working. i had 2 do blinking flashing that were barely 2 years old. one of them i put in the fridge cause it only does it when it gets so hot. but since in the fridge its cool and only on for a very short period of time. it was a good spot for it and no need to throw it out.
Nice repair video 👍
I was so shocked as you said "this is my last video"... Hopefully I will never hear that for real.
were the viewers complaining about the bad sound or about your accent? :):):) I enjoy your videos very much and also enjoy listening to your accent.
I have lot of these 10w LED 💡
Mumpitz! Sound and video quality are good enogh.
@ DiodeGoneWild -
"Bright Power" brand Chips are very common in LED electronics
Beautiful ideas
Waiting for the new camera footage 😝😝 I think u should do some MOT arcs with it like u did in ur old channel with 3 MOT banks 😝😝
According to the red dots of glue under the details, it was a kind of wave soldering. So bad solder joints is not clean surface or is not enough flux.
Resin is probably kind of anaerobic silicone.. Mystery China :D
You have quite a smart cat, that understands electronics. :)
your videos are awesome , thanks man and i am waiting for the schematic of the 12V 50A 600W power supply
That style of LED bulb was more common a few years ago. Or maybe it’s just that I’m buying cheap bulbs for US$1 (40, 60, 75, or 100 watt equivalents) with crude heat sinks and the simplest possible capacitive-dropper circuits.
Yes, it's a bit older. The new ones use a plastic covered heatsink so they can use a cheap capacitive dropper or a non-isolated buck regulator.
4:27 well designed. the leds at the center gets less power because they dont have good cooling/heatsink
Thanks Sir very informative and usefull vedio 👌
Wow, its not just the two solder joints that failed but look at all the other ones. Theyre absolutely horrible.
Your kitty is so clever !
I had a lamp exactly like that one, not from Lidl, it failed in exactly the manner you described. I even took it apart in the same way, breaking off chunks of the compound (I didn't damage the capacitor though) and found the same bad solder joint on the input but still didn't get it working, I didn't check any further.
Looks like the factory where they are made has a problem with soldering, possibly not enough heat at the ends of the boards.
New camera video, cat vlog, cos the cat is awesome... :D
the way u talk is so freaking hilarious lol
Paralleling LEDs is kind of weird ! P-N junction should never be put it parallel since it has negative temperature coefficient, for both : resistance and voltage drop.
Well...probably the designer is counting on the fact those leds share the same heatsink. Still...not a good decision.
your videos are already too good
now with new camera it will get even better...
Reassured by the quality of the Lidl light bulb, even though it failed !
Slightly concerned by comment - "This is my last video..."
..."with this camera"....
This is huge argument for LED lamps with separate power supplies. It is a sin to throw a perfectly good lamp in the trash because of a measly bad solder.
That's Pb-Free soldering for us...
The question is not that it fails or not, but when.
I kept buying LEDs in Lidl hoping it is of good quality, but I see a trend now that every single one of them will fail sooner or later. The most recent event is that I just unscrewed 3 from the same light fixture, they all died almost at the same time (only weeks in between), with the same failure mode (started flickering then won't turn on). Those were from the same batch, but ones bought earlier also behaved the same.
Planned obsoloscence at it's finest...
I salvaged some vtac 150cm led tubes (with samsung leds!!!) all with this stupid soldering issue on the input ac. It seems that the solid core of those wires/inrush resistor shatters the idiotic lead free solder on the board after some heat/cold cicles.
ROHS solder used to be quite bad. I remember some cars had bad solder on the ECU.
Now we have better formulation for ROHS solder.
@@groundzero_-lm4md That's not to say the bad stuff isn't still in use.
This time “dry soldering gone wild”...nice! 😜
Fixed energy transfer from primary to secondary..output voltage go hight if you remouve leds .they must be always conected
8:39 wow a diode gone wild!!!!!😜😜😜
Hi DGW,
analyzing all the blasts of the diode before replacement, you absolutely do not see the point of interruption of the weld.
This makes me think that the extra currents due to the false input contact, have interrupted the passage at some point inside the diode, very close to the welds which was then restored thanks to the desoldering.
P.S. perhaps the center diodes have been put in parallel to dissipate less power given the shape of the contact surface of the heatsink.
I had LED bulbs that failed in a month. Thats why i switched back to incandescent. The cost for electricity is cheaper than a new LED bulb every few months
I use LEDs in the rooms where I keep forgetting to turn the light off, but I use incandescent lamps where I spend most of my time. You can't beat the quality of light of incandescent lamps.
@@DiodeGoneWild Nothing beats 100 CRI. Although some LEDs get pretty close.
With the exception of one room (which uses a linear tungsten halogen tube) and the tungsten filament lights in the loft, everywhere else in my house uses either LED lamps (the majority being MR16 12V types and GU10 230V types) or fluorescent lamps (linear, circular, 2D, or CFL types). How good the light from a white LED lamp is very much depends on the phosphors that have been used.
Cool..Lead Free Solder..prob cause...
Yes, this tends to be the case.
Lead-free solder seems like an environmental measure gone wild...!
When You See History As Historie
Then Accent Is Understandable
Interesting video. Nice walk through.
some of the other solder joints on that board look dodgy too, inconsistent fillets and a couple of visible cavities. depending on how long you forgot about it for, the lamp could be from the period when manufacturers were still adapting their processes to lead free solder. failures from poor soldering were quite prevalent for a few years following that change.
weird circuit but you brought it to life! 👏😊
Maybe the mains input connection was actually still making contact when it failed and it was just the diode that was causing it to stop working?
I'm sure that's what was happening. It was drawing a few milliamps so the input must have been making a connection.
Perhaps a twin stage failure: first, the mains solder pad failed due to heat. Second, flickering LEDs caused inductive loading on the secondary side diode which caused it to heat up and lift off the pad. Unusual, but informative. 50,000 hours life!
Pin 2 of the IC is probably used for overvoltage/undervoltage shutdown.
This is *almost* my perfect bulb.
The three key points are separated. There's a LED disk - that could be independently replaced. There's The 'electronics package' part, and then there's a large. well-connected heat sink.
Buy the large heat sink **once**. Engineer the electronics package for just a smidge more longevity. And access to buying all three parts independently ... No, no company would really do this. But an Open Hardware version of this is precisely what I want. On *this* circuit board, are there *any* specific elements that would last significantly longer with a mild part-quality/spec increase? What gets **hottest** on that board?
I had Osram units similar to those and they failed miserably after less than one year. It was a 1 uF filter capacitor that dried and let out fast high voltage spikes to the Led string
11:16 Amplitude modulation of the light is seen here.
I think the output diode had a poor solder joint, that was broken completely by depotting, so not part of the original failure.
Love the sound!
You could 3D print a new housing, put a new base to it and put it back together.
your videos are awesome