So I already have my new springs (1968 Mustang) I'll install them later this year, probably the end of spring. Will review this video again to refresh myself. Another good job Andy.
Just ran across your videos and I’ve got a 68 not 66, although find them to be very helpful! I’m an electrical contractor and not a mechanic and learning as I go. Thanks for posting and keep em up 👍🏽💯
Great video, thanks. I love the out takes also. Ever spend 30 minutes looking for something you dropped or couldn't get too? Asking for a friend lol.....
Hi Andy, very useful vid. Do you heighten the car with the Shelby mod? If you drill lower holes, then the car goes up right? Meaning the mod increases the space between the wheel and the car?
Thanks for the feedback! It seems counter intuitive, but the holes need to be drilled lower than the stock holes. There's a phrase with the 65-66 Shelby Mod, "down and inch, back an 1/8". That's referring to the placement of the new holes relative to the original holes. The upper control arm is tilted down a little bit in the back, so if you were to look at the holes in the car, they're not perfectly level with each other and the ground. This is why the 1/8" adjustment is needed after dropping down an inch from the original holes. Of all the videos and threads I've seen about this Mod, I've only seen one video where they drilled the holes above the stock location (they didn't get the results they were looking for). The problem I had with my car was not drilling the holes in wrong place, but the fact that the 50+ year old springs had sagged so much over time, the claimed drop of the new springs actually put the car higher than where I was (that's why I had to cut off 3/4 of a coil). I also compounded the problem by doing both the Shelby Mod and the Lowering Springs at the same time, so it was difficult to see how much each component was doing to my ride height, as well as how the car handles. I won't be making that mistake on the next car. ;)
Andy, great looking Stang! I'm thinking about doing the same on all 4 corners of my 65 FB. Couple of questions for you..... what brand/type of lowering rear leaf springs did you go with and what kind of jack system is that you have there? i gotta have one of those. thanks,
Thanks!! I only did the front springs in this video, I address the rear setup in the next video. :) The jack system is from Quickjack, they sell them at Costco, got'em on sale for around $1000. The Quickjack system is cheaper than a lift and extremely portable, which works for my small garage. I get around 21inches of lift, perfect for most of the work I do on my cars.
I bought it off Ebay, there's a bunch on there. However, I will be selling them soon on my website (KruseBuilt.com) if you're in a position to wait. :)
Unfortunately most people won't be able to perceive the improvement this mod creates. Some may, but overall this is a very minor modification. However, it's more about the sum of the whole than anything. Coupling this mod with other suspension changes is really where it needs to be. There's very little value in doing this mod on an all stock Mustang, the performance gains wouldn't realized as the improved caster is only really noticed when someone is trying to dial in the car with respect to handling better on the road. However, if someone is looking for the largest improvement in handling with a single modification, I'd steer them towards the Panhard Bar. I recently did a video on that mod, it's my favorite mod to date, even over the T5 swap. :)
Dont know if anyone cares but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my brother these days xD
Hey Andy, I know this video is a year old but quick question. Did you leave the spindle attached to the bottom control arm while you did the update? I really appreciate the replies. One other note, I know this was on the coupe. Thank you
Yes, there's no need to remove or loosen the spindle when upgrading/replacing the springs on these cars. Also, there's no need to remover the upper or lower control arms either. It should just be the shock and the spring. Done. :)
What did your ride height from ground to front fender end up being? I installed some 1” drop springs from global west and I think it actually ended up too low.
Right now the car sits at 25 -1/8" from the fender lip to the ground. That's with a 225/60/15 tire, Eibach springs (part # 3562.120) with 3/4 of a coil cut off, and the Shelby Mod.
Did you use the same shims on the upper A-arm when you did the Shelby drop? Also, did you remove the caliper and rotor to take off the a-arm to drill the holes? Thx-John
Yes, used the same shims. However, an alignment is needed after doing the drop. Only the shock and spring need to be removed, the A-arm and steering knuckle can remain attached. Once you undo the two nuts on the Header side of the engine bay, the A-arm just pulls outward. I pivoted it out of the way while I cleaned the area and drilled the holes. :)
@@johnorr302 Sorry, I misunderstood, I thought you were asking if I used the same shims or a different style/set. :) Yes, some need to come out, but it also depends on if you're doing lowering springs with the Shelby drop. I put them all back because the alignment shop was going to take out whatever was needed.
I made a video of putting cams in my Harley I have never posted. I did 20 takes of the introduction. 16:00 Video making is not easy when you are thinking about it. LOL
I still do multiple takes on stuff where I can't seem to get the words right. I was working on another video the other day and it took my seven tries to get the ending right. :)
So I already have my new springs (1968 Mustang) I'll install them later this year, probably the end of spring. Will review this video again to refresh myself. Another good job Andy.
Awesome, good luck!
Just ran across your videos and I’ve got a 68 not 66, although find them to be very helpful! I’m an electrical contractor and not a mechanic and learning as I go. Thanks for posting and keep em up 👍🏽💯
Welcome aboard! Hopefully there's something of value in my videos for you. :)
Electricians make better mechanics than mechanics make electricians.
Most brutal install I hated installing mine
Nah, installing wiring or plumbing in a spider infested crawl space is brutal, this was easy. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel ugh idk mine fought me tool and nail but that sounds awful too
haha
You better show some before and after pics when you get done with the rear in the next video. Great job!
Pics coming in hot!
Great video, thanks. I love the out takes also. Ever spend 30 minutes looking for something you dropped or couldn't get too? Asking for a friend lol.....
Thanks!
30 minutes? Ha! I'm still missing things that I dropped. They must be in the same place where socks go when they go missing from the dryer?
Where did you learn to work on Mustangs? Your videos are great. Every video gets better and your production skills improve. Thank you for posting!
I'm older than I look, and I like to figure things out. :)
Hi Andy, very useful vid.
Do you heighten the car with the Shelby mod? If you drill lower holes, then the car goes up right? Meaning the mod increases the space between the wheel and the car?
Thanks for the feedback!
It seems counter intuitive, but the holes need to be drilled lower than the stock holes. There's a phrase with the 65-66 Shelby Mod, "down and inch, back an 1/8". That's referring to the placement of the new holes relative to the original holes. The upper control arm is tilted down a little bit in the back, so if you were to look at the holes in the car, they're not perfectly level with each other and the ground. This is why the 1/8" adjustment is needed after dropping down an inch from the original holes.
Of all the videos and threads I've seen about this Mod, I've only seen one video where they drilled the holes above the stock location (they didn't get the results they were looking for).
The problem I had with my car was not drilling the holes in wrong place, but the fact that the 50+ year old springs had sagged so much over time, the claimed drop of the new springs actually put the car higher than where I was (that's why I had to cut off 3/4 of a coil). I also compounded the problem by doing both the Shelby Mod and the Lowering Springs at the same time, so it was difficult to see how much each component was doing to my ride height, as well as how the car handles. I won't be making that mistake on the next car. ;)
Andy, great looking Stang! I'm thinking about doing the same on all 4 corners of my 65 FB. Couple of questions for you..... what brand/type of lowering rear leaf springs did you go with and what kind of jack system is that you have there? i gotta have one of those.
thanks,
Thanks!! I only did the front springs in this video, I address the rear setup in the next video. :) The jack system is from Quickjack, they sell them at Costco, got'em on sale for around $1000. The Quickjack system is cheaper than a lift and extremely portable, which works for my small garage. I get around 21inches of lift, perfect for most of the work I do on my cars.
@@AndyKruseChannel $1000 each?
@@jamestharpe6299 $1000 for the whole system (lifts, hoses, controller, and pump)
I just picked up a 65 fastback looking to do some things with in on my channel man that turn out nice brother 🐎🚗🔧💪💯🇺🇲
Very cool, welcome to the club!
I wish my spring kit took 15min to install.
A little more practice and you'll get there!
Do you have a link to the Shelby drop template or did you make that yourself
I bought it off Ebay, there's a bunch on there. However, I will be selling them soon on my website (KruseBuilt.com) if you're in a position to wait. :)
hi Andy, did you notice better handeling and does the car seem more stable with the shelby drop?
Unfortunately most people won't be able to perceive the improvement this mod creates. Some may, but overall this is a very minor modification. However, it's more about the sum of the whole than anything. Coupling this mod with other suspension changes is really where it needs to be. There's very little value in doing this mod on an all stock Mustang, the performance gains wouldn't realized as the improved caster is only really noticed when someone is trying to dial in the car with respect to handling better on the road.
However, if someone is looking for the largest improvement in handling with a single modification, I'd steer them towards the Panhard Bar. I recently did a video on that mod, it's my favorite mod to date, even over the T5 swap. :)
Gorgeous car!
Thank you!
Dont know if anyone cares but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new movies on instaflixxer. I've been streaming with my brother these days xD
@Royce Gerardo yup, been using instaflixxer for since december myself :D
@Royce Gerardo yea, been watching on InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
@Royce Gerardo definitely, I have been watching on InstaFlixxer for since november myself =)
Andy, I am having difficulty removing the front coil springs with the compression tool I have, can you provide the source for your tool used?
The brand is OEM Tools, you can rent this same tool from some auto parts stores. 🙂
@@AndyKruseChannel Thanks, Andy. I have the 1966 Mustang Sprint 200, 3-speed manual. I love your videos!
Hey Andy, I know this video is a year old but quick question. Did you leave the spindle attached to the bottom control arm while you did the update?
I really appreciate the replies. One other note, I know this was on the coupe. Thank you
Yes, there's no need to remove or loosen the spindle when upgrading/replacing the springs on these cars. Also, there's no need to remover the upper or lower control arms either. It should just be the shock and the spring. Done. :)
What did your ride height from ground to front fender end up being? I installed some 1” drop springs from global west and I think it actually ended up too low.
Right now the car sits at 25 -1/8" from the fender lip to the ground. That's with a 225/60/15 tire, Eibach springs (part # 3562.120) with 3/4 of a coil cut off, and the Shelby Mod.
Did you use the same shims on the upper A-arm when you did the Shelby drop?
Also, did you remove the caliper and rotor to take off the a-arm to drill the holes?
Thx-John
Yes, used the same shims. However, an alignment is needed after doing the drop.
Only the shock and spring need to be removed, the A-arm and steering knuckle can remain attached. Once you undo the two nuts on the Header side of the engine bay, the A-arm just pulls outward. I pivoted it out of the way while I cleaned the area and drilled the holes. :)
@@AndyKruseChannel Everything I’m seeing says to take 1/8 to 1/4” of shims out from what you started with...
@@johnorr302 Sorry, I misunderstood, I thought you were asking if I used the same shims or a different style/set. :)
Yes, some need to come out, but it also depends on if you're doing lowering springs with the Shelby drop. I put them all back because the alignment shop was going to take out whatever was needed.
What hydraulic lift are you using to lift your mustang with?
That's the Quickjack. I purchased it from Costco, on sale, for $1k.
I made a video of putting cams in my Harley I have never posted. I did 20 takes of the introduction. 16:00 Video making is not easy when you are thinking about it. LOL
I still do multiple takes on stuff where I can't seem to get the words right. I was working on another video the other day and it took my seven tries to get the ending right. :)
Did you have to disconnect the sway-bar end links before dropping the suspension down?
It is recommended as it does make things easier during the install. :)