I've installed these strips under counters many times as a contractor. You only need to connect wires to one end as long as you don't break the strip. Great idea. Some kits come with RGB and remote controller/dimmers so you can tailor the light to the K or color you want. They should be able to be made portable by just setting up with batteries to the value of the adapter.
While it's true that you don't necessarily need to attach the power at both ends, it is possible that with longer LED strips , brightness and voltage can drop toward the end of the strip(especially when chaining strips together). I linked an interesting article describing the problem. One solution to double the possible length of a strip is to attach power to both ends as he did in the video. www.superbrightleds.com/blog/understanding-difference-12-volt-24-volt-led-strip-lights/3070/
Hi Mr. Adam, I am from India. I used to wonder why my desklamp's light used to feel "dead and cold". Now I know that it used a low CRI LED(probably much less than 80). Thank you for this knowledge. TH-cam is a wonderful place. I am now searching ways to make a durable LED tube myself. Usually the manufacturers use a bad quality power to the LED tubes here. and because of that, the tubes die within a few years of purchase...even if the LEDs work mostly fine. I am trying to overcome planned obsolescence and make my 10 year-LED tube on my own.
Fantastic DIY Build! I had been looking at several other DIY attempts, and this is by far the best, most concise and followable one! Thank you Droi Media! I know you are addressing an American audience, I live in Germany and it\s been a little hard finding frosted acrylic tubes here. Been to home stores and Bauhaus stores and they don\t really know what I mean. So far the best translation term I have for anyone else searching in Germany is 'Acryl Rohr Satiniert"/ Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Keep me posted on what you find - I know a few other folks found clear acrylic tubing and just put a layer of diffusion inside for the same effect. Happy DIYing!
@@DroiMedia Cheers! great suggestion. Will keep you posted what I end up making on this build :) What would be a searchable term for a 'diffusion layer'?
@@SebastianKaye I think they were maybe using lighting/gel diffusion filters (like these: amzn.to/3elKMQn) - but you could probably get away with something cheaper like parchment paper (that you use for cooking).
What's the purpose of running the red/black wire under the strip and powering the stripe on both ends? In normal LEDs like Govee from Amazon the power is only connected on one side. Pls let me know. Am in the process of making my own LED tube light. Thanks
Thanks for watching - as noted in the video, you don't HAVE to connect the wire to both ends, but it helps distribute the current / heat better (in my experience). Will work either way though! Let me know how it goes, would love to see some finished work! :)
Probably the most common question I get asked about these.... I don't have a great solution at the moment. I have toyed with the idea of using a hollow tube that would fit AA batteries in lieu of the dowel rod that would power the entire light, just haven't found the right stuff for that. Otherwise a small USB battery pack that you attach with velcro to one end would be the easiest solution (and then you just need to get a USB to 3.5mm power cord). Again, haven't tried that. I typically just plug them into a larger battery pack I carry around that I charge camera batteries and stuff from - at the very least it allows me to put the light in spots that would be a bit more restricted if I needed a long extension cord and wall outlet access.
Hi, can you please guide how which led driver needs to use. As I can see in the 1st bank you have added is initial part of whole led strip. So when we wanted to create 2nd led tubelight, which will be created from remaining led strip which does not have any driver attached to it, so which one we need to use?
Heya! I would suggest searching for your specific LED strip that you bought and see if there are any universal drivers / connectors for it. Wish I had more info for you but this is what I would do!
Hey Kenn, quick question - I've got an RGB light I want to use for this build, but it's got 4 cords and a 4 pin connector for power on either end... so I'm unable to run the wire along the dowel and connect to the top and bottom (hope that makes sense). What issues would I be running into without that? On another forum someone mentioned that wire helps distribute heat and voltage evenly throughout. Any input is much appreciated, and thanks in advance!
@@DroiMedia I think you mean wires (and not cords). That's what I thought you did for the White LED strip which surprised me because it ought (!) not be necessary as "good" strip vendors state (how much truth there is in it is debatable) you can daisy-chain up to four 5m strips. I have only one installation of a 5m strip and the brightness SEEMS uniform. Thanks for reminding me to actually check the voltage at the non-powered end just to see how much of a voltage drop there is.
@@DroiMedia The copper tracks / traces on strips (and such) are both thin and narrow which causes a voltage drop and so the LEDs at the non-powered end could be dimmer. The voltage drop is directly related to the current which is related to the density and type of LED (i.e 5050 versus 3825). Generally speaking, the 'bigger' the LED and more the number of LEDs the higher the voltage drop. I have seen powering LEDs as you have done (from both ends) which ought to balance the voltage (and so the heat would be uniform). I would not say the heat was distributed evenly as flexible strips "do not" distribute heat.
@@DroiMedia Soooooooo! I see you have a few options. Ask the vendor for a RGB strip with the lowest voltage drop (I doubt they will have any idea as to what you are asking though) , or measure it for yourself. If the drop is more than say 0.2V then you could do as before (use a router to make a groove for the wiring), or run a buss wire at both the top and bottom. A buss wire is simply a thick wire meant to carry power to circuits with minimal voltage drop. There are Wire Charts available that give the raw data needed to determine the voltage drop for a given length and current
It will work - but I did this initially and it gets REALLY WARM, I explain it a little more in depth in the video and some other comments, but essentially closing the circuit (or making a loop - i.e. soldering both ends in) distributes the power better and the light doesn't overheat.
Thanks for asking - and I only ever had them get hot when I DIDN'T wire them from both ends. As is they get warm since it is an enclosed space, but I have never really had any 'hot' issues. I do think if I could go back I would drill a couple air holes at each end to allow for some air circulation.
@@DroiMedia not sure this will work (didn't show the process) but this guy hooked up a Sony battery plate to his lights th-cam.com/video/0QoenJo94Ag/w-d-xo.html
I had some folks tell me it helps the current pass through better - I can confirm wiring both ends does help - BUT - you can do it without wiring both ends as I note elsewhere.
Heya! Not sure I quite understand the question - any chance you could re-phrase it? Happy to help, just want to make sure I can answer your question correctly! :)
@@ministudio2122 I THINK it's 12v, keep in mind my math is all done on scratch paper and I'm not trained professionally by any means in this. Hope that helps a little!
Thanks for this vid will use it, Just a thought, instead of a wooden dowel an aluminum tube would work well, It will help with the heat dissipation and you can put the wire inside, though endcaps will be tricky to fasten.
Hey thanks for the video, I'm currently looking at parts for a project for my custom water cooling pc where I use frosted white tubing and I'm planning on using ARGB lights Behind the tube. Unfortunately I cant seem to find any reference photos/videos of other people doing something similar so your video is just what I need to get a sense of how the diffusion looks
This is a great idea. I know that has been around for a little while and I have a need for something just like this. I need a DIY "Modeling Light" solution for my soft-box while using Flash/Speed lights. The available Ring lights are a step in the right direction but, they just don't kick out enough light for the cameras autofocus to work correctly in order to make this a viable solution. I need the EV of the LEDs to be about a 10 or a 11. Lux = 4500. Any idea? Can you point me in the right direction with a DIY project? What type of LEDs? How many LEDs for a given surface area? What you think? What kind of fstops are you getting with that LED Wand. I love this idea.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment - as for suggestions I have VERY little (ok, NO) background in determining Lux for these. You can likely find that info on each product page - I haven't made these in awhile but IIRC there were some substantially pricier LEDs that kicked out way more light, had better CRI, etc. etc. than the budget friendly ones I used for mine. As for the F-Stops I would have to look and see, but normally if these are in a shot I'll adjust so it's a singular light (rather than having the individual LEDs visible) and then modify other lights from there. I typically shoot at 2.8-5.6 on projects with these lights, and then again, adjust as needed for my desired look. Hope that helps a little!
@@MusicAndOtherColors they are readily powered via external battery banks, so somewhat portable. I have yet to make one with an integrated battery of any kind, honestly I think that's out of my realm at the moment. :)
@@MusicAndOtherColors Yeah, just use a battery pack (I have a few that I like listed in our 'how we power our gear' video on the channel) and you will be totally fine to use outdoors. It's definitely portable enough to move around outdoors, the packs I use are like half the size of a toaster.
Hey! Great question and yes it does, BUT, when I originally connected only one side the light got pretty hot, and after talking with some folks who have more knowledge than me they recommended I connect both sides so the current doesn't build up and create heat anywhere. You can absolutely do it by just connecting one side but just be careful / aware that it might get hot. Hope that helps answer your question!
Not only does it benefit with heat build up, but the end of the strip closest to the power connecter will be brighter than the end without. So by connecting both ends it allows for more even power and light distribution.
Happy for others to chime in, I've got some RGB models that turned out ok, I'll look try and find links for what I got and get back to you. Thanks for watching!
Looks awesome and Dam that’s bright! You should consider getting the leds with the remote to dim them down if it suits your needs or to change the color
Are you asking? It's in the description and in the video - it's frosted acrylic tubing. You could use anything similar though, and the frosted is just to help with the diffusion, you could do colors, clear, etc.
I'm going to make a kids-car illuminated roll bar with flashing lights using this technique. I have an old three-color LED strip and a wig-wag flasher module. Tks!!
Can these be made to run on battery ? will it affect brightness ? if it can be run on battery ? could you tell if the battery would be huge or possibly portable
Yep! I run them off of some larger batteries sometimes to make them more portable, but you could definitely rig up some NPF or V Mount style batteries to power these - either of those options would be fairly small / portable.
Either the website you bought the tube from changed the way they frosted their tubes or the exposure of your video makes the LEDs look way more diffused than they actually are. The 1.5" tube is too narrow to diffuse the LEDs and you end up seeing each individual LED through the tube. I purchased the samr stuff you did, am i doing something wrong?
In person they typically show up as individual LED spots, but on camera they tend to look like the frosted tube you see in the videos. Yes, I exposed for them to look like that and then adjusted my other lights, but I do that for most shots so I hope that it doesn't seem like I'm misleading anyone here. I also notice that when I crank them to full power (via the dimmer in my follow-up video) the individual LEDs are a LOT harder to see. Let me know if you've found a workaround for this issue!
@@DroiMedia thanks for clarifying. Yea that makes sense, since they're really bright so the dots won't show up in the video unless you underexpose. I'm using the light stick as a decorative light (it's really long and leans against the wall) and so having a smooth glow is what I'm going for. I'm gonna try it with a higher density LED strip and see if that works
Hey! I've been told by people with much more experience and knowledge than me in this field that the wire will help regulate power throughout the length of the light strip, so it's less likely to overheat at one end. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
Why does the LED strip need power to both ends? That’s the only part I don’t understand. Isn’t the point of the screw on end for power to avoid soldering?
Heya, this is explained more in a few of the other comments here but basically the other end connection / loop that it creates helps to distribute power more evenly and prevents over heating at the connecting end. Hope that helps! (You can get away with just the one end but when I did it the lights got hot)
Sony np 970 batteries have 7.2 volt output but my led panels are working ,how?sorry for dumb question but this subject is out my knowledge.I was looking for battery powered led panels and found your video . And your video was very useful ,now I wanna make battery powered tube light too : )
If you have to solder a power connector then try using a molex style connector or terminal strip. The 'barrel' type connectors are a huge pain-in-the-@ss. This is also true for 'external' runs as the barrel connector easily pulls apart
yeah! Like for long exposure light paintings?? If so I would love to see you do that - and it should work just fine. I normally connect mine to a small external battery that way they are super portable, and while I leave mine on stands you could definitely run around with some connected to a battery.
Works the same way! My RGBW strip has 4 connections / wires (is yours the same?) so I had to solder an additional 4 wire strip to each end. I bought some solderless connectors but they didn't work well.
I did! Just didn't make a tutorial for it :) It's a 3' long RGBW version, remote controlled, pretty good except a few of the LED bulbs never do the color I want (but it's OK since I can just turn them to face away from the shot/camera/subject!
Awesome, do you recommend good LED lights strips for RGBW, cause the ones you used have this problem? It is difficult to find a good and reliable LED strip that has a good (and real) CRI.
@@CPProd I bought a decently reviewed one and still had those problems. I opted for a lower CRI (IIRC like high 80s, so not great but I figured whatever since I am only using it for very specific instances) so that might have been the issue? I haven't used one I am really happy with, but I do have a few really high CRI, really highly rated, really expensive ones I want to try out but I'm just nervous about spending like 3-4x what I want to get a damn LED light strip that I use occasionally ya know. SO, long story short, I don't have a recommendation at this time unfortunately - except to just find one in your budget with decent reviews and work around whatever the shortcomings are :)
@@DroiMedia Right, my friend! You are right, the budget and the usefulness of this tool for my work are absolutely the most important to consider. It is no use buying the best led (and more expensive) if I don't use this equipment so much. Thank you very much for your help and attention with my question! Success!
all Quasar brand tubes I've used will beat these in brightness, but I think the ones you're talking about are just the tubes and you'll need a housing (like an old KinoFlo shell or whatever) to mount them. These are fully self contained, other than power, much like the Q-LED line - which I believe are like $75/ft. If you can buy QS tubes then I recommend you do so - they are pro quality lights - but if you're interested in doing the DIY route these are an option to consider. Thanks for watching! :)
Hello just finished the build. Thank you very much for the tutorial ! I have a problem tho I can see the individual led through the tube, it looks like its not diffused enough. Could it be because i used cheaper led (not the 90 cri ones) ?
Hey! Awesome to hear that you took on this build! It COULD be that, are you able to see the bulbs through your camera? In person I can see the individual bulbs, but on camera unless I have a really small aperture (f9 or higher for instance) or a really high shutter speed I can't see the bulbs.
@@DroiMedia oh it wasnt meant for a camera lighting in my situation, it is meant a dance performance haha, so I have to get rid of the single led visible effect. I just did a quick research on aliexpress and found some led flexible strip that might fit my need better. Also the caps where kind of hard to get in my country, so I 3d printed them (with a guide for the dowel rod, a hole for the screw and one for the wires to daisy chain). You could link them in your video if you want (used the same frosted acrylic as you did).
@@DroiMedia thanks, I’m planning to make DIY light like westcott ice light with RGB STRIPS Pobviously inspired by your video (making things in budget). I think it will be interesting recreating it in budget couldn’t find any TH-cam video, you should try making it. Just a suggestion
That was amazing... Thanks for Sharing... I love tools.... and I think this is going to be one of my future projects. Thanks a million. You just might have saved me $100s.
Not necessary but when I did some original tests only wiring one end caused it to get REALLY warm. The additional wiring allows for the current to continuously move, so there is no (or less) heart build up.
@@DroiMedia that makes perfect sense, and after I asked I started to wonder if it had something to do with current or maybe only half the lights being driven. Thanks so much for the reply and helping me understand!
Hi Jorge, great question - I don't have a definitive answer, but you SHOULD be able to power these with any battery that can output the correct wattage for your light strip. For instance any 12v battery would work for mine as long as it can fit the input - I regularly use a larger portable battery to power mine while out on shoots, but you should be able to use a 12v out on a V Mount or any other larger battery. Hope that helps!
Yes but it does get complicated by the choice of battery; Lead-acid, Ni-MH, Ni-Cad, Li-ion. All have various advantages and disadvantages Do use a PROPER recharger. and keep in mind that even Li-ion batteries experience a voltage drop as they discharge.
Hi! You can find different lights with varying amounts of LEDs online - these are a single strip with a light every inch or so, but I believe there are strips with two side by side lights or lights every 1/2 inch or so (so basically more lights in the same length of strip which means brighter lights). I would assume these would work as grow lights, they're as bright or brighter than the same sized light I use for my frog/terrarium :)
None that I've noticed but I'll do a shoot with them this weekend and share some footage - I'll run through some various frame rates and shutter speeds to see. Thanks for the question!
Fantastic! I've been thinking the last few weeks about how I need to build some tubes before these tariffs get too crazy, but I might have missed my chance. I was thinking about using fluorescent tube protectors as the tube and spraying them with spray on window frost, but I might have to check out the acrylic tube you used because i'm sure it's much more durable.
Saw those very tube protectors at my local hardware store and realized if they were totally stationary (i.e. just lived in a studio somewhere) they might do OK, but the acrylic tubes are as thick as a PVC tube so I'm guessing they could withstand a good amount of abuse if you need them to work out in the field or get moved around a lot. Let me know what you decide to go with - would love to see the finished tubes!
before i got quasars i did the exact same thing. Got the tube protectors and sprayed with window frost. it looked good and worked. this is a video with them th-cam.com/video/n1UI3anIyog/w-d-xo.html
Do you still have some of those endcaps...I'd like to get about 20 of them...what would you charge for them as I don't want to buy a bulk when I only need a few. Thank you.
Hey! You could probably find some solderless connectors to use, I can't speak to how safe or reliable they would be but if you went with that route you could use some of that shrink wrap stuff on the end (that you heat up and it shrinks and seals everything) to potentially strengthen the connection.
As far as I know, you can just use one end of the led strip, which comes with ready to use power adapters, I actually don't know why he soldered the other end, but either way, soldering is pretty easy, I'm actually a magician with the soldering Iron, but I know 20 cents of electronics...
I loved how this led tubes ended up looking! I'll try to make my owns, but I wonder if it would be possible to power them with a NP-F battery or simillar, to make it portable. What do you think?
Hey! That's honestly the most common question I get asked.... I think if you got one of those NPF batts with a USB out or something you could power one that way I bet. I haven't had any time to test that option out but maybe some day :)
@@deanv8663 Just found your comment, I was plannig to make a portable version of these light tubes, do you think it is even 'possible' to get this much brighntess and to shelf a battery without making the entire system too 'bulky' ? Thanks
I haven't taken the time to make a battery powered one yet, but you can run power off a small battery powered generator or power brick, just gotta check the #s and make sure it'll handle the LEDs. Check out our Powering Your Gear video for the one we use!
Cool cool, you could definitely power these off a battery of some kind just need to make sure the amps and everything are correct for the battery output.
Hiya! (Sweet username 🤗) so I was told by people with more experience than me that wiring it that way helps distribute power throughout the entire strip and can help prevent heat buildup. You can definitely do this without it though!
Hey! This has been a very informative video. Would you possibly know how to make this tube light rechargable using usb? if so it will be lovely to connect with you to get some insights from you. Cheers!
I haven't done it but it's totally feasible, would need to wire in a battery pack that you could recharge or swap out or whatever. This was high on my list of projects but my wife and I had a baby last year sooooo that's been my big DIY project for the last several months haha
I THINK they sell similar ones on Amazon, I'm on my phone right now but I'll get back to you later when I'm back around a computer, I've got some others bookmarked I think.
@@stefankarabelov Hey! I can't find the link I thought I had bookmarked, but you should be able to search "acrylic tubing" or "clear acrylic tubing" on Amazon and find a decent priced one that's the right size: amzn.to/3eBLskF - let me know if you have any questions about potential ones, I don't want people buying the wrong stuff on my account :)
Thanks! And the four wires at the other end? Let me know what part of the video you're referencing and I'll let ya know (sorry it's not more obvious to me, just getting back from an all day shoot outside in a field so my brain is mush). As for the 12v, I believe the LEDs are all 12 [if I'm wrong and someone else with more information/knowledge is reading this please correct me!]
@@DroiMedia low voltage LEDs come in 5v, 12v and 24v. They also make line voltage (120/240v) LED tape/rope but less common. You oddly did use 4 wires, two at each end of the tape which is rather unusual. What is the reasoning for doing that.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! I think you're referencing the two wires I used to connect the LED strip to itself (each wire was bare at both ends so there were 4 bare areas that I connected, butonly 2 actual wires). Anyways, I was told by some folks this was the way to do it after my first tests ended up with WARM LED temperatures. They said this method would distribute heat / current more effectively. I have like NO knowledge on this shit though but it definitely worked out in terms of keeping the LEDs a lot cooler!
Yo! I answer this in several other responses on this video, and it's answered in the video. Short answer: you don't HAVE to but it helps with current / heart distro. Thanks for watching!
@@DroiMedia wow, didn’t have to be a prick about it. I looked in the comments and never found an answer. I’ll be honest, I didn’t sift through all the redundant comments but you could’ve been a little more descriptive in the video. Still doesn’t make sense. I’ve never seen this to be an appropriate way to wire a short string of leds. Definitely not following you after that response
No hard feelings if you don't sub because you thought that was me being a prick, and let's note that I literally also took the time to explain it (briefly) in my comment to you. I'll repeat - it helps with current and heat distribution, and you do not NEED to wire it that way, but it helps. Thanks for watching either way, hopefully you got something useful out of the tutorial.
This is how diy video suppose to be. I just watched a video and 5 minutes in on a 6 minute video the guy was just talking nonsense and zero how to...lol. Thanks for the idea.
Kenn, thanks for the input - one of my iterations used some of the u-channel pieces that you can mount LED strips with, adhered to just one side of the tube on the inside. Ultimately it didn't provide as much light (fewer LEDs). This is a really solid idea though and one I think could work out with the right solution - I just haven't found it yet. Thanks for watching!
Most LED-Strips run on 12V. If you directly connect them to a 9V Source, they might light up but only very dim. You could use a voltage step up module to boost the voltage to 12V. But you also need to make sure that the 9V Battery as well as the step up module can deliver enough current to power the amount of LEDs you are using.
With cheaper strips the mounting tape is crap - glue it down with epoxy. Just put the epoxy directly on the surface, then apply the strip. The sticky tape will adhere.
Quick question: Why do you solder an additional wire to the other end (the one without the connector adapter) of the strip (at 3.25 in the video)? Is there any "performance" reason? sorry, i am a noob at electrics ;)
Great question! I was told by people with a better understanding of electronics than me that doing so will allow better / more stable flow of an electric current through the entire light that way. I have yet to test out and see if it makes a difference, but I know you could technically do it without that cord if you wanted (they're made to be used that way) to save a little time, money, and effort when making these.
Hey! I'm currently using this RGB strip (amzn.to/2O4aYn1), with these additional pieces (amzn.to/2NCVYgZ) - no samples yet and I don't have a finished product that I'm REALLY pleased with, but I'll post/share that when I get there. The build should be the same but with just 4 wires instead of the 2, hence the other set of connectors.
Great question but unfortunately one I do not have an answer for. However, you could get clear plastic tubing and then put a rolled-up piece of frosted gel on the inside for the same effect I would think.
Heya! I would have to look at pricing and get back to you, what length and light color do you want? I honestly probably wouldn't have time to do it until October, just FYI
Hey Richard! Thanks for watching - as for the color changing strips I've got a set that I'm working on putting into one of these, the only issue I'm running into is that additional strip that runs under the LED strip is 4 wires with RGBW and they require additional connecting hardware (rather than soldering 4 sep. wires) so it's a bit 'chunkier' than I want on the inside and doesn't fit as well. I'm hoping to get some time this month to finish that up and I'll share a post on the results when I do. Honestly, I might just try it without that other wire and see what happens.
@@DroiMedia Good luck! Can't wait to see the results. I will try and the Daylight ones then go again should you make the colour work. Thanks again for the video and keep up the great work! P.s. I am the worst DIY person so fingers crossed
I've installed these strips under counters many times as a contractor. You only need to connect wires to one end as long as you don't break the strip. Great idea. Some kits come with RGB and remote controller/dimmers so you can tailor the light to the K or color you want. They should be able to be made portable by just setting up with batteries to the value of the adapter.
Thanks for the comment and info, Bill!
While it's true that you don't necessarily need to attach the power at both ends, it is possible that with longer LED strips , brightness and voltage can drop toward the end of the strip(especially when chaining strips together). I linked an interesting article describing the problem. One solution to double the possible length of a strip is to attach power to both ends as he did in the video.
www.superbrightleds.com/blog/understanding-difference-12-volt-24-volt-led-strip-lights/3070/
Hi Mr. Adam, I am from India. I used to wonder why my desklamp's light used to feel "dead and cold". Now I know that it used a low CRI LED(probably much less than 80). Thank you for this knowledge. TH-cam is a wonderful place. I am now searching ways to make a durable LED tube myself. Usually the manufacturers use a bad quality power to the LED tubes here. and because of that, the tubes die within a few years of purchase...even if the LEDs work mostly fine. I am trying to overcome planned obsolescence and make my 10 year-LED tube on my own.
Awesome to hear! Let me know it goes! :)
Thank you for sharing. I'm excited to go and attempt your design as soon as I can. Think I'll try with RGB LEDs.
Awesome! Let me know how it turns out!
Fantastic DIY Build! I had been looking at several other DIY attempts, and this is by far the best, most concise and followable one! Thank you Droi Media! I know you are addressing an American audience, I live in Germany and it\s been a little hard finding frosted acrylic tubes here. Been to home stores and Bauhaus stores and they don\t really know what I mean. So far the best translation term I have for anyone else searching in Germany is 'Acryl Rohr Satiniert"/ Thanks!
Thanks for the comment! Keep me posted on what you find - I know a few other folks found clear acrylic tubing and just put a layer of diffusion inside for the same effect. Happy DIYing!
@@DroiMedia Cheers! great suggestion. Will keep you posted what I end up making on this build :) What would be a searchable term for a 'diffusion layer'?
@@SebastianKaye I think they were maybe using lighting/gel diffusion filters (like these: amzn.to/3elKMQn) - but you could probably get away with something cheaper like parchment paper (that you use for cooking).
What's the purpose of running the red/black wire under the strip and powering the stripe on both ends? In normal LEDs like Govee from Amazon the power is only connected on one side.
Pls let me know. Am in the process of making my own LED tube light. Thanks
Thanks for watching - as noted in the video, you don't HAVE to connect the wire to both ends, but it helps distribute the current / heat better (in my experience). Will work either way though! Let me know how it goes, would love to see some finished work! :)
How would you do this to make it battery operated or usb powered to plug into a portable battery for portable use?
Probably the most common question I get asked about these.... I don't have a great solution at the moment. I have toyed with the idea of using a hollow tube that would fit AA batteries in lieu of the dowel rod that would power the entire light, just haven't found the right stuff for that. Otherwise a small USB battery pack that you attach with velcro to one end would be the easiest solution (and then you just need to get a USB to 3.5mm power cord). Again, haven't tried that. I typically just plug them into a larger battery pack I carry around that I charge camera batteries and stuff from - at the very least it allows me to put the light in spots that would be a bit more restricted if I needed a long extension cord and wall outlet access.
Easiest and most comprehensive video I’ve seen.🤘🏽
That means a lot, thank you! 😊😊😊
Hi, can you please guide how which led driver needs to use. As I can see in the 1st bank you have added is initial part of whole led strip. So when we wanted to create 2nd led tubelight, which will be created from remaining led strip which does not have any driver attached to it, so which one we need to use?
Heya! I would suggest searching for your specific LED strip that you bought and see if there are any universal drivers / connectors for it. Wish I had more info for you but this is what I would do!
If you 'tin' the copper pads on the strip before soldering the wires it is much easier/faster. Applying some flux beforehand can also help.
Hey Kenn, quick question - I've got an RGB light I want to use for this build, but it's got 4 cords and a 4 pin connector for power on either end... so I'm unable to run the wire along the dowel and connect to the top and bottom (hope that makes sense). What issues would I be running into without that? On another forum someone mentioned that wire helps distribute heat and voltage evenly throughout. Any input is much appreciated, and thanks in advance!
@@DroiMedia I think you mean wires (and not cords). That's what I thought you did for the White LED strip which surprised me because it ought (!) not be necessary as "good" strip vendors state (how much truth there is in it is debatable) you can daisy-chain up to four 5m strips. I have only one installation of a 5m strip and the brightness SEEMS uniform. Thanks for reminding me to actually check the voltage at the non-powered end just to see how much of a voltage drop there is.
@@DroiMedia The copper tracks / traces on strips (and such) are both thin and narrow which causes a voltage drop and so the LEDs at the non-powered end could be dimmer. The voltage drop is directly related to the current which is related to the density and type of LED (i.e 5050 versus 3825). Generally speaking, the 'bigger' the LED and more the number of LEDs the higher the voltage drop.
I have seen powering LEDs as you have done (from both ends) which ought to balance the voltage (and so the heat would be uniform). I would not say the heat was distributed evenly as flexible strips "do not" distribute heat.
@@DroiMedia Soooooooo! I see you have a few options. Ask the vendor for a RGB strip with the lowest voltage drop (I doubt they will have any idea as to what you are asking though) , or measure it for yourself. If the drop is more than say 0.2V then you could do as before (use a router to make a groove for the wiring), or run a buss wire at both the top and bottom. A buss wire is simply a thick wire meant to carry power to circuits with minimal voltage drop. There are Wire Charts available that give the raw data needed to determine the voltage drop for a given length and current
@@kennmossman8701 thanks for this thorough reply (and yes I meant wires, long day lol), I appreciate your insight!
great idea but won’t they work just adding power to the one factory wires with out soldering the end you cut?
It will work - but I did this initially and it gets REALLY WARM, I explain it a little more in depth in the video and some other comments, but essentially closing the circuit (or making a loop - i.e. soldering both ends in) distributes the power better and the light doesn't overheat.
Can those light be wired directly to a 12v battery from my ice fishing flasher?
I don't see why not, try it out!
I got to the Sawder bit and didnt understand what that was.So i soldered mine together instead.
Sorry bud had to :) .Happy holidays.
😊
Clear instructions and easy to follow.
Thank you! :D
Great stuff!
Here in the uk,18 inch t8 led tubes are difficult to find for my lamp that is a perfect length for my desk,so will give this a go!
Awesome! Let me know how they turn out - and share some pics with us once you're done! :) :) :)
Will it have problem with heat accumulating inside the tube over time?
Thanks for asking - and I only ever had them get hot when I DIDN'T wire them from both ends. As is they get warm since it is an enclosed space, but I have never really had any 'hot' issues. I do think if I could go back I would drill a couple air holes at each end to allow for some air circulation.
Found you on Reddit....thanks for sharing man. This is one of those questions that plagues TH-cam’s. About lighting.
🤗 happy to help!
Check me out too man. Let me know if my content jives with ya.
So awesome man! If you could make a portable version it would be even more epic. Not many companies make those it seems except quasar science
Thanks! And I know, I want to make one with an Incorporated battery but haven't been able to make it work yet.
Droi Media that’s great, I hope you’ll succeed and make a video out of it!!
@@DroiMedia not sure this will work (didn't show the process) but this guy hooked up a Sony battery plate to his lights th-cam.com/video/0QoenJo94Ag/w-d-xo.html
How does wiring at both ends cut down on heat?
I had some folks tell me it helps the current pass through better - I can confirm wiring both ends does help - BUT - you can do it without wiring both ends as I note elsewhere.
Brother how many voltes have you made light of 12 volts, 4 volts dc
Heya! Not sure I quite understand the question - any chance you could re-phrase it? Happy to help, just want to make sure I can answer your question correctly! :)
@@DroiMedia means the light you have prepared is it in 12 volt dc or in 4 volt
@@ministudio2122 I THINK it's 12v, keep in mind my math is all done on scratch paper and I'm not trained professionally by any means in this. Hope that helps a little!
Thanks for this vid will use it, Just a thought, instead of a wooden dowel an aluminum tube would work well, It will help with the heat dissipation and you can put the wire inside, though endcaps will be tricky to fasten.
Great tip!
Hey thanks for the video, I'm currently looking at parts for a project for my custom water cooling pc where I use frosted white tubing and I'm planning on using ARGB lights Behind the tube. Unfortunately I cant seem to find any reference photos/videos of other people doing something similar so your video is just what I need to get a sense of how the diffusion looks
Glad I could be of help - would love to see what the finished project looks like, @ me over on Twitter or Instagram if you post some finished shots.
Have been looking for something like this for aaaages, great tutorial.
Thanks! Share a pic if you decide to make some! 🤗🤗
This is a great idea. I know that has been around for a little while and I have a need for something just like this. I need a DIY "Modeling Light" solution for my soft-box while using Flash/Speed lights. The available Ring lights are a step in the right direction but, they just don't kick out enough light for the cameras autofocus to work correctly in order to make this a viable solution. I need the EV of the LEDs to be about a 10 or a 11. Lux = 4500. Any idea? Can you point me in the right direction with a DIY project? What type of LEDs? How many LEDs for a given surface area? What you think? What kind of fstops are you getting with that LED Wand. I love this idea.
Thanks for watching and taking the time to leave a comment - as for suggestions I have VERY little (ok, NO) background in determining Lux for these. You can likely find that info on each product page - I haven't made these in awhile but IIRC there were some substantially pricier LEDs that kicked out way more light, had better CRI, etc. etc. than the budget friendly ones I used for mine. As for the F-Stops I would have to look and see, but normally if these are in a shot I'll adjust so it's a singular light (rather than having the individual LEDs visible) and then modify other lights from there. I typically shoot at 2.8-5.6 on projects with these lights, and then again, adjust as needed for my desired look. Hope that helps a little!
WOW !!!!!! Such a beautiful idea !!! Super thank you for sharing this tutorial !
Thanks! 😊😊😊
@@DroiMedia Have you tried to make a portable one as well ?
@@MusicAndOtherColors they are readily powered via external battery banks, so somewhat portable. I have yet to make one with an integrated battery of any kind, honestly I think that's out of my realm at the moment. :)
@@DroiMedia I guess it is doable but it would cost a bit more , I want to use it for outdoor shootings
@@MusicAndOtherColors Yeah, just use a battery pack (I have a few that I like listed in our 'how we power our gear' video on the channel) and you will be totally fine to use outdoors. It's definitely portable enough to move around outdoors, the packs I use are like half the size of a toaster.
can this be achieved using 5v power sources instead of 12?
I don't know for sure but I think it would probably work.
why are you connecting both sides of the strip? surely one side powers the whole strip
Hey! Great question and yes it does, BUT, when I originally connected only one side the light got pretty hot, and after talking with some folks who have more knowledge than me they recommended I connect both sides so the current doesn't build up and create heat anywhere. You can absolutely do it by just connecting one side but just be careful / aware that it might get hot. Hope that helps answer your question!
Not only does it benefit with heat build up, but the end of the strip closest to the power connecter will be brighter than the end without. So by connecting both ends it allows for more even power and light distribution.
Anyone have a good link for a bright RGB set with connectors and all? I'm struggling to find anything!
Happy for others to chime in, I've got some RGB models that turned out ok, I'll look try and find links for what I got and get back to you. Thanks for watching!
@@DroiMedia Thanks I would really appreciate that! I've been through two sets already and can't get my light going.
Looks awesome and Dam that’s bright! You should consider getting the leds with the remote to dim them down if it suits your needs or to change the color
Thanks! And I actually did that for my second build - has worked well so far :)
Name of the transparent cylindrical pipe
Are you asking? It's in the description and in the video - it's frosted acrylic tubing. You could use anything similar though, and the frosted is just to help with the diffusion, you could do colors, clear, etc.
Fantastic. Thank you for sharing
I'm going to make a kids-car illuminated roll bar with flashing lights using this technique. I have an old three-color LED strip and a wig-wag flasher module. Tks!!
Awesome! Be sure to share a picture with us on social media after you're done!
Can these be made to run on battery ? will it affect brightness ? if it can be run on battery ? could you tell if the battery would be huge or possibly portable
Yep! I run them off of some larger batteries sometimes to make them more portable, but you could definitely rig up some NPF or V Mount style batteries to power these - either of those options would be fairly small / portable.
You could probably hook them up to usb connections
Great idea! I just run them into the 3.5mm in (light) from the USB out (battery). Works great, although not a "battery powered" as many people want.
Either the website you bought the tube from changed the way they frosted their tubes or the exposure of your video makes the LEDs look way more diffused than they actually are. The 1.5" tube is too narrow to diffuse the LEDs and you end up seeing each individual LED through the tube. I purchased the samr stuff you did, am i doing something wrong?
In person they typically show up as individual LED spots, but on camera they tend to look like the frosted tube you see in the videos. Yes, I exposed for them to look like that and then adjusted my other lights, but I do that for most shots so I hope that it doesn't seem like I'm misleading anyone here. I also notice that when I crank them to full power (via the dimmer in my follow-up video) the individual LEDs are a LOT harder to see. Let me know if you've found a workaround for this issue!
@@DroiMedia thanks for clarifying. Yea that makes sense, since they're really bright so the dots won't show up in the video unless you underexpose. I'm using the light stick as a decorative light (it's really long and leans against the wall) and so having a smooth glow is what I'm going for. I'm gonna try it with a higher density LED strip and see if that works
Superb what a innovative idea congratulations 👏to you
Thanks!
Clean build! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching! :D :D :D
Can’t wait to try this!
Doooo ittttt! And then let me know how they turn out :)
Dowel idea was very neat loved it. I would have loved to use a steel or copper rod as it also works as a heatsink.
That is good to know, I haven't had anyone tell me that yet, I might have to try it out on my next one! Thanks!!
@@DroiMedia wow. That's a lightning quick reply.
Caught me on a lunch break, plus I don't have a ton of subs so I keep notifications on 😊
@@DroiMedia that made me subscribe you ! Good luck.
What's the purpose of running a separate wire from the other end of the tube, can you not power the led strip from one end?
Hey! I've been told by people with much more experience and knowledge than me in this field that the wire will help regulate power throughout the length of the light strip, so it's less likely to overheat at one end. Thanks for watching and let me know if you have any other questions!
Why does the LED strip need power to both ends? That’s the only part I don’t understand. Isn’t the point of the screw on end for power to avoid soldering?
Heya, this is explained more in a few of the other comments here but basically the other end connection / loop that it creates helps to distribute power more evenly and prevents over heating at the connecting end. Hope that helps! (You can get away with just the one end but when I did it the lights got hot)
Well done ,can you make battery powered?
Thanks! And yeah! Any battery with a standard 12v output should work!
Sony np 970 batteries have 7.2 volt output but my led panels are working ,how?sorry for dumb question but this subject is out my knowledge.I was looking for battery powered led panels and found your video . And your video was very useful ,now I wanna make battery powered tube light too : )
You might be able to find a lower voltage LED strip, or you could possibly utilize a different battery source
Strangely enough while the answer is yes that is complicated though the largest factor is the desired run time which dictates the AH of the battery
If you have to solder a power connector then try using a molex style connector or terminal strip. The 'barrel' type connectors are a huge pain-in-the-@ss. This is also true for 'external' runs as the barrel connector easily pulls apart
Kenn thanks for all this insight - I truly appreciate it!
Could i use this for light photography? Would I just connect a power bank to it?
yeah! Like for long exposure light paintings?? If so I would love to see you do that - and it should work just fine. I normally connect mine to a small external battery that way they are super portable, and while I leave mine on stands you could definitely run around with some connected to a battery.
thanks for the vid! one question tho, what if i have a strip that changes colors?
Works the same way! My RGBW strip has 4 connections / wires (is yours the same?) so I had to solder an additional 4 wire strip to each end. I bought some solderless connectors but they didn't work well.
Very nice! Hey, do the same for a RGB model!!
I did! Just didn't make a tutorial for it :) It's a 3' long RGBW version, remote controlled, pretty good except a few of the LED bulbs never do the color I want (but it's OK since I can just turn them to face away from the shot/camera/subject!
Awesome, do you recommend good LED lights strips for RGBW, cause the ones you used have this problem?
It is difficult to find a good and reliable LED strip that has a good (and real) CRI.
@@CPProd I bought a decently reviewed one and still had those problems. I opted for a lower CRI (IIRC like high 80s, so not great but I figured whatever since I am only using it for very specific instances) so that might have been the issue? I haven't used one I am really happy with, but I do have a few really high CRI, really highly rated, really expensive ones I want to try out but I'm just nervous about spending like 3-4x what I want to get a damn LED light strip that I use occasionally ya know. SO, long story short, I don't have a recommendation at this time unfortunately - except to just find one in your budget with decent reviews and work around whatever the shortcomings are :)
@@DroiMedia Right, my friend! You are right, the budget and the usefulness of this tool for my work are absolutely the most important to consider. It is no use buying the best led (and more expensive) if I don't use this equipment so much.
Thank you very much for your help and attention with my question!
Success!
Any idea how you would throw this on a cold shoe for a camera? Been thinking about making my own portable light with all these neopixels I have
Well done, if i want this in another colour is it possible to spray the acrylic pipe with a clear paint?
I don't see why not! They also have other colors of plastic tubing if you wanted some color.
It was simple and clear. Thank you 🙏
Thanks for watching! :)
A 4' quasar LED tube is $100 on amazon which is basically $25/ft. How do these compare in brightness?
all Quasar brand tubes I've used will beat these in brightness, but I think the ones you're talking about are just the tubes and you'll need a housing (like an old KinoFlo shell or whatever) to mount them. These are fully self contained, other than power, much like the Q-LED line - which I believe are like $75/ft. If you can buy QS tubes then I recommend you do so - they are pro quality lights - but if you're interested in doing the DIY route these are an option to consider. Thanks for watching! :)
Hello just finished the build. Thank you very much for the tutorial ! I have a problem tho I can see the individual led through the tube, it looks like its not diffused enough. Could it be because i used cheaper led (not the 90 cri ones) ?
Hey! Awesome to hear that you took on this build! It COULD be that, are you able to see the bulbs through your camera? In person I can see the individual bulbs, but on camera unless I have a really small aperture (f9 or higher for instance) or a really high shutter speed I can't see the bulbs.
@@DroiMedia oh it wasnt meant for a camera lighting in my situation, it is meant a dance performance haha, so I have to get rid of the single led visible effect. I just did a quick research on aliexpress and found some led flexible strip that might fit my need better. Also the caps where kind of hard to get in my country, so I 3d printed them (with a guide for the dowel rod, a hole for the screw and one for the wires to daisy chain). You could link them in your video if you want (used the same frosted acrylic as you did).
I never saw this in my life super
Where to get this diffuser
Which diffuser? The acrylic tubing?
@@DroiMedia yes sir cover
Link for all the materials is in the description! You can also find similar products over on Amazon.
Can we add dimmer to it as well???
Yep! th-cam.com/video/DmrjjAEt7vQ/w-d-xo.html
@@DroiMedia thanks, I’m planning to make DIY light like westcott ice light with RGB STRIPS Pobviously inspired by your video (making things in budget).
I think it will be interesting recreating it in budget couldn’t find any TH-cam video, you should try making it. Just a suggestion
Sounds cool, let me know how yours turns out! 😊
That was amazing... Thanks for Sharing... I love tools.... and I think this is going to be one of my future projects. Thanks a million. You just might have saved me $100s.
Glad you liked it!
Is the wire at both ends really necessary? Could you not just solder to one end of the LED strip?
Not necessary but when I did some original tests only wiring one end caused it to get REALLY warm. The additional wiring allows for the current to continuously move, so there is no (or less) heart build up.
@@DroiMedia that makes perfect sense, and after I asked I started to wonder if it had something to do with current or maybe only half the lights being driven. Thanks so much for the reply and helping me understand!
Happy to help, there's more info buried up in the comments so it might be worth perusing those to check some things out. Happy DIYing!
Awesome. Simple but very innovative! Thank you for this!
Thanks for watching (and commenting)! :D :D :D
What's the reason for powering the leads from both ends
Equal heat and power distribution - you can do without but the light might get hot at the connection end
@@DroiMedia ah OK... Thanks
Yeah sorry for the short explanation, on my phone right now (more in depth discussion on this topic can be found in the comments here). Happy DIYing!
@@DroiMedia no that's fine makes Sence
any idea how to make this with a battery?
Hi Jorge, great question - I don't have a definitive answer, but you SHOULD be able to power these with any battery that can output the correct wattage for your light strip. For instance any 12v battery would work for mine as long as it can fit the input - I regularly use a larger portable battery to power mine while out on shoots, but you should be able to use a 12v out on a V Mount or any other larger battery. Hope that helps!
Yes but it does get complicated by the choice of battery; Lead-acid, Ni-MH, Ni-Cad, Li-ion. All have various advantages and disadvantages Do use a PROPER recharger. and keep in mind that even Li-ion batteries experience a voltage drop as they discharge.
Great work !
Thanks!
muy buenas, como las harías recargables?
I want to make my own grow lights for hydroponics. So my question is, can i control the lumens of the light? Are there stronger strips?
Hi! You can find different lights with varying amounts of LEDs online - these are a single strip with a light every inch or so, but I believe there are strips with two side by side lights or lights every 1/2 inch or so (so basically more lights in the same length of strip which means brighter lights). I would assume these would work as grow lights, they're as bright or brighter than the same sized light I use for my frog/terrarium :)
@@DroiMedia thank you! for the great video and for your response! like and subscribe folks, he deserves it
@@moncefzerroug9533 thanks for the support :) :) :) truly appreciate it!
Can I have the link for the solderless connector you used for the build?
Hiya! I think this is the one I used: amzn.to/2O7G7qM
How much watt is that light
I don't know off-hand, but with multiple lights it is bright enough to do a LOT with :)
@@DroiMedia sir we can use mobile battery for this
You could adapt a battery to work - I usually plug my light into a larger battery to use.
Whats the flicker like on these LED strips when filming video?
None that I've noticed but I'll do a shoot with them this weekend and share some footage - I'll run through some various frame rates and shutter speeds to see. Thanks for the question!
That depends on the duty cycle and frequency if using PWM. I'd suggest varying the voltage or current instead.
Is there any heat issue? Why led strips are used without radiators?
The only neat issues arise when you don't have the LEDs connected at both ends. And I don't know what a radiator is 😊
very clean diy! looks very professional
Thanks!
no Fliker?
None at typical shutter speeds :)
Fantastic! I've been thinking the last few weeks about how I need to build some tubes before these tariffs get too crazy, but I might have missed my chance. I was thinking about using fluorescent tube protectors as the tube and spraying them with spray on window frost, but I might have to check out the acrylic tube you used because i'm sure it's much more durable.
Saw those very tube protectors at my local hardware store and realized if they were totally stationary (i.e. just lived in a studio somewhere) they might do OK, but the acrylic tubes are as thick as a PVC tube so I'm guessing they could withstand a good amount of abuse if you need them to work out in the field or get moved around a lot. Let me know what you decide to go with - would love to see the finished tubes!
before i got quasars i did the exact same thing. Got the tube protectors and sprayed with window frost. it looked good and worked. this is a video with them th-cam.com/video/n1UI3anIyog/w-d-xo.html
There are two types of plastic normally used - each has its advantages
Do you still have some of those endcaps...I'd like to get about 20 of them...what would you charge for them as I don't want to buy a bulk when I only need a few. Thank you.
Have any more end caps ? Lol
Yeah! Lots! Send me an email with your mailing address and how many you want 😊
Is there a way to make one without soldering anything ?
Hey! You could probably find some solderless connectors to use, I can't speak to how safe or reliable they would be but if you went with that route you could use some of that shrink wrap stuff on the end (that you heat up and it shrinks and seals everything) to potentially strengthen the connection.
As far as I know, you can just use one end of the led strip, which comes with ready to use power adapters, I actually don't know why he soldered the other end, but either way, soldering is pretty easy, I'm actually a magician with the soldering Iron, but I know 20 cents of electronics...
I loved how this led tubes ended up looking! I'll try to make my owns, but I wonder if it would be possible to power them with a NP-F battery or simillar, to make it portable. What do you think?
Hey! That's honestly the most common question I get asked.... I think if you got one of those NPF batts with a USB out or something you could power one that way I bet. I haven't had any time to test that option out but maybe some day :)
I use LiPo remote control plane batteries for some of my led stuff. They are small, light, and can be found for rather inexpensive prices.
@@deanv8663 Just found your comment, I was plannig to make a portable version of these light tubes, do you think it is even 'possible' to get this much brighntess and to shelf a battery without making the entire system too 'bulky' ?
Thanks
@@gokulhbk the batteries I have used are about the size of a tic tac container.
Awesome! Making mine this week. Any tips or thoughts on battery powering this?
I haven't taken the time to make a battery powered one yet, but you can run power off a small battery powered generator or power brick, just gotta check the #s and make sure it'll handle the LEDs. Check out our Powering Your Gear video for the one we use!
How can I make this rechargeable? Great video
Thanks! And no clue about making it rechargable, that's unfortunately beyond my capabilities.
No problem I'm trying to come up with something at least battery operated
Cool cool, you could definitely power these off a battery of some kind just need to make sure the amps and everything are correct for the battery output.
Why did you wire the opposite end back? Wasn't it getting power just from the input at the main end?
Hiya! (Sweet username 🤗) so I was told by people with more experience than me that wiring it that way helps distribute power throughout the entire strip and can help prevent heat buildup. You can definitely do this without it though!
@@DroiMedia thanks for the reply.
Most excellent. Well done!
Thanks! 😊😊😊
5:23 am dead 💀 😂😂 didn’t expect that lol 😂! You a genius! God bless you you save me lot of money
glad to hear! Thanks for watching! :D :D :D
Hey! This has been a very informative video. Would you possibly know how to make this tube light rechargable using usb? if so it will be lovely to connect with you to get some insights from you. Cheers!
I haven't done it but it's totally feasible, would need to wire in a battery pack that you could recharge or swap out or whatever. This was high on my list of projects but my wife and I had a baby last year sooooo that's been my big DIY project for the last several months haha
amazing video. Thanks
Thanks for watching! :) :) :)
Any other good sites to buy frosted acrylic tubes from? I'm in Canada.. the USD is a nightmare :p
I THINK they sell similar ones on Amazon, I'm on my phone right now but I'll get back to you later when I'm back around a computer, I've got some others bookmarked I think.
@@DroiMedia sounds great!
@@stefankarabelov Hey! I can't find the link I thought I had bookmarked, but you should be able to search "acrylic tubing" or "clear acrylic tubing" on Amazon and find a decent priced one that's the right size: amzn.to/3eBLskF - let me know if you have any questions about potential ones, I don't want people buying the wrong stuff on my account :)
Great stuff! I need enlightenment about where the four wires at the other end come from. Also, how do we decide whether it is 12 volt or more. Thanks.
Thanks! And the four wires at the other end? Let me know what part of the video you're referencing and I'll let ya know (sorry it's not more obvious to me, just getting back from an all day shoot outside in a field so my brain is mush). As for the 12v, I believe the LEDs are all 12 [if I'm wrong and someone else with more information/knowledge is reading this please correct me!]
@@DroiMedia low voltage LEDs come in 5v, 12v and 24v. They also make line voltage (120/240v) LED tape/rope but less common.
You oddly did use 4 wires, two at each end of the tape which is rather unusual. What is the reasoning for doing that.
Hey! Thanks for the comment! I think you're referencing the two wires I used to connect the LED strip to itself (each wire was bare at both ends so there were 4 bare areas that I connected, butonly 2 actual wires). Anyways, I was told by some folks this was the way to do it after my first tests ended up with WARM LED temperatures. They said this method would distribute heat / current more effectively. I have like NO knowledge on this shit though but it definitely worked out in terms of keeping the LEDs a lot cooler!
Why did you wire both ends of the led strip? Doesn’t make much sense
Yo! I answer this in several other responses on this video, and it's answered in the video. Short answer: you don't HAVE to but it helps with current / heart distro. Thanks for watching!
@@DroiMedia wow, didn’t have to be a prick about it. I looked in the comments and never found an answer. I’ll be honest, I didn’t sift through all the redundant comments but you could’ve been a little more descriptive in the video. Still doesn’t make sense. I’ve never seen this to be an appropriate way to wire a short string of leds. Definitely not following you after that response
No hard feelings if you don't sub because you thought that was me being a prick, and let's note that I literally also took the time to explain it (briefly) in my comment to you. I'll repeat - it helps with current and heat distribution, and you do not NEED to wire it that way, but it helps. Thanks for watching either way, hopefully you got something useful out of the tutorial.
This is how diy video suppose to be. I just watched a video and 5 minutes in on a 6 minute video the guy was just talking nonsense and zero how to...lol. Thanks for the idea.
Thanks! I do my best to just showcase the DIY stuff, and as little of the other shit as possible :)
@@DroiMedia i mean some vids can get away with my pet ;peeve of all talk no diy but you have to look good in a bikini ...lol
@@rogeers2167 I do NOT look good in one, so I'll keep up the DIYing :D
How many meters did you end up using for one led tube?
Hi! I mention this in the video but 5m works for a 3 foot long tube.
@@DroiMedia yea but u still cut off some but ill guess it wasnt much then but thx
I don't remember how much it was, less than 9" I THINK
If you don't want 360 degree light consider using a thin flat piece of wood and mounting the strips to the wood on one side.
Kenn, thanks for the input - one of my iterations used some of the u-channel pieces that you can mount LED strips with, adhered to just one side of the tube on the inside. Ultimately it didn't provide as much light (fewer LEDs). This is a really solid idea though and one I think could work out with the right solution - I just haven't found it yet. Thanks for watching!
Do you have any extra end caps that I could buy from you? I don't want 98 extra laying around.
Yeah! Shoot me an email (should be up in my channel info) and we'll get that taken care of!
DroiMedia emailed!
Hi Droi, awesome tutorial. can this also be powered by a 9 volt battery?
Hey thanks!! I have no clue but I don't see why not - would just need a (maybe couple of) 9v adapters and then wire in the correct connection type.
Most LED-Strips run on 12V. If you directly connect them to a 9V Source, they might light up but only very dim. You could use a voltage step up module to boost the voltage to 12V. But you also need to make sure that the 9V Battery as well as the step up module can deliver enough current to power the amount of LEDs you are using.
Modern Crafts Thank you. I will try this set up........
With cheaper strips the mounting tape is crap - glue it down with epoxy. Just put the epoxy directly on the surface, then apply the strip. The sticky tape will adhere.
Good suggestion!
Incredible! How to save money on the quasars! I wonder how these fair with flickering - they looked great on your video?
No flickering I've encountered yet :)
Which tube use in this project.
I used this frosted acrylic tubing: bit.ly/2lCamdL
we enjoyed with Ur video its so easy cheap excellent
Thanks!
Awesome vid man! Subscribed! Look forward to watching more. Cheers!
Thanks! That seriously means a lot - appreciate the comment and the sub :) :) :) :)
@@DroiMedia No worries!
Quick question: Why do you solder an additional wire to the other end (the one without the connector adapter) of the strip (at 3.25 in the video)? Is there any "performance" reason? sorry, i am a noob at electrics ;)
Great question! I was told by people with a better understanding of electronics than me that doing so will allow better / more stable flow of an electric current through the entire light that way. I have yet to test out and see if it makes a difference, but I know you could technically do it without that cord if you wanted (they're made to be used that way) to save a little time, money, and effort when making these.
It’s to mitigate voltage drop and idefinitely worth the small effort so as to maintain even power. Thanks for the tutorial, great job!
Thanks!
Hey any chance you could link me to some rgb led lights that will be usable in the same way for this project? Thanks!
Hey! I'm currently using this RGB strip (amzn.to/2O4aYn1), with these additional pieces (amzn.to/2NCVYgZ) - no samples yet and I don't have a finished product that I'm REALLY pleased with, but I'll post/share that when I get there. The build should be the same but with just 4 wires instead of the 2, hence the other set of connectors.
Thx so much!
really amazing! thank you so much!
Thank YOU for watching and the kind comment 😊
Do you know the % light transmission from the tubing? It's super hard to find frosted acrylic tubing in the Netherlands.
Great question but unfortunately one I do not have an answer for. However, you could get clear plastic tubing and then put a rolled-up piece of frosted gel on the inside for the same effect I would think.
nice build pro
Thanks! ☺️☺️
Nice! Thanks
Thanks for watching! 😊
How much would it be for you just to make it for me and ship it?
Heya! I would have to look at pricing and get back to you, what length and light color do you want? I honestly probably wouldn't have time to do it until October, just FYI
Thanks for this guys. I'm definitely going to try, do you have any suggestions for colour changing LED strip or would this not viable?
Hey Richard! Thanks for watching - as for the color changing strips I've got a set that I'm working on putting into one of these, the only issue I'm running into is that additional strip that runs under the LED strip is 4 wires with RGBW and they require additional connecting hardware (rather than soldering 4 sep. wires) so it's a bit 'chunkier' than I want on the inside and doesn't fit as well. I'm hoping to get some time this month to finish that up and I'll share a post on the results when I do. Honestly, I might just try it without that other wire and see what happens.
@@DroiMedia Good luck! Can't wait to see the results. I will try and the Daylight ones then go again should you make the colour work. Thanks again for the video and keep up the great work!
P.s. I am the worst DIY person so fingers crossed
Great idea! Tanks!
:D
Got anymore end caps??
Yeah! Send us an email and we'll chat!
hmm whats the email sorry to be annoying
No annoyance at all man, droimedia@gmail.com