Not sure what you do with your soybeans, but if you plan to bring them to market and sell them at a grain elevator, do you run the beans through anything to reduce the amount of foreign matter / pods beforehand? Just curious as it looks like your setup would allow for "cleaning" the beans before going into your storage silo or when coming out.
The soybeans are bunching up on the header floor then slugging the combine. First, if you don't have a rock guard behind the cut bar, put that on or what worked better for me was a 3" tile drain held in place by conduit clamps bolted on using the sickle guard bolts. That helps tip the bean stalks over further into the auger. I like the drain tile better than the rock guards because it's more flexible so the header flexes better. I have the rock guard on my 800 head and don't like it. The drain tile will also keep rocks out. Reel teeth are cut. Fix that so it feeds better and put 12" throw baler belting attached to reel like flaps so that each flap is hanging down about 3 inches past new reel teeth. Stagger the flaps so that every other bat has a flap in a position over the soybean row. As you go across the reel installing flaps, Make sure that for each soybean row, the flaps are put on the opposite three bats, and the next row the opposite three bats again going across the reel so that there are 18 evenly staggered flaps. Hope that I was clear. Mover the header auger off the floor about 3/4" and as far forward as possible and if you have to add a link or two to the chain do it. It needs to be forward. I also took 3/4 or 5/8 inch lock washers and hammered them over the edge of the auger flighting going around placing one every third of a turn across the length of the auger. That wasn't easy but with a visegrip you can do it. Check to see if your auger flighting is square on its edge. If not square you can take a grinder across the edge of the auger flighting to square it up but be careful where the sparks fly because the sparks will melt into your windows. Make sure your cylinder is level and your cylinder gauges on each side of the throat are zeroed. When the cylinder just ticks the concave on both sides, it is zeroed. Then set the cylinder at 1/4" going by your gauges which if you zeroed out the gauges correct, should be right. Do you have wide spaced cylinder bars? If not, get them. They don't do quite as well on wet corn but are great in drier corn like 20% or less and are really great on soybeans, especially green stem soybeans. Does the concave have squared edges? If not then replace. Make sure you have the fast sprocket on the beater shaft just behind the cylinder. Do all this and you will gain a mile per hour at least in green stem soybeans and far less plugging..... Some have rigged up a reverser to these too. You might have already known some or all of these tips but this all worked great for me. I didn't like my L2 in green stem soybeans until all this was done.
Tried the the pipe thing. It only helped in short beans but we hardly ever get 30 bu beans. Tried flaps on half the reel saw no difference. Square edged the auger that helped alittle. Auger is as far forward so it touches the reel. Teeth got caught cuz header controller wire came undone and they aren't cheap to replace. Made poly skids from a water tank and that helped alot and made sure we wd40 all the pivot points on the bottom that freeze up every year. The cylinder bars would help im sure, read you want the skip tooth ones for less drag. We were plugging up cuz there was weeds and grass next to the alfalfa and had shorter beans and when we were next to the grove and the beans were thin other wise it didn't plug after that
@@jamespetrich5610 I ran the drain pipe in short and tall beans. Did you try adjusting the reel finger pitch? That helped my 800 head but still going to put an orbit reel on. I had to take the pivot parts all apart on my 315 and lubed everything with never seize which helped a ton and every year since have had the dirty job of cleaning all that crap out from under there and spraying down with oil. Much cleaner job though on the 800 which I will be stripping down to tear apart and lube all the pivots this coming summer like I did on the 315. I couldn't get the control to work right until I tore it down on the 315 and I think the same will work on my 800. The 3/4" wide space bars are much more aggressive at grabbing the gteen stemmed bean stalks and makes one heck of a difference. Some grind out every other tooth on the standard bars but then they also have to be precision balanced when you do that and I'm not sure how they act in corn vs the 3/4" bars. A reverser sure would have been nice on the L. Did I mention that I also replaced the springs in the feeder beater slip clutch? And since they only have 4 springs in there and there is room for 8 I added 2 more with another 2 on hand if I thought I needed them. You could always put a green or red bean head on too but for me, my mods worked great. My next step, if I keep the L2, is stainless steel flex feather sheets like my 800, they are just steel and wearing through. Maybe the raised feather sheets.
@@jamespetrich5610 Even if you didn't plug much after that I think these mods will still help with sickle shatter. Back when these heads were new, at least in my area, green stem soybeans weren't a thing and 60 plus bushel beans weren't either. Dirt,Grain & Steel youtube channel put a Case 1020 head on their L2 and it does amazing with a 25' head vs their 1660 with only a 20' head. Look that channel up if you get a chance.
A starter off a 350 Chevy and a flex plate will solve your digging out the feeder beater issue
مرحباً كيف حالكم هذا جميل أنا اعمل في هذا المجال وتلحيم وأبحث عن العمل إذا كان هناك عمل انا في خدمتكم تحية طيبة من المغرب و شكرا 😊
Not sure what you do with your soybeans, but if you plan to bring them to market and sell them at a grain elevator, do you run the beans through anything to reduce the amount of foreign matter / pods beforehand? Just curious as it looks like your setup would allow for "cleaning" the beans before going into your storage silo or when coming out.
Oh I hate soybeans so much. Never doing them again, always trouble.
The soybeans are bunching up on the header floor then slugging the combine. First, if you don't have a rock guard behind the cut bar, put that on or what worked better for me was a 3" tile drain held in place by conduit clamps bolted on using the sickle guard bolts. That helps tip the bean stalks over further into the auger. I like the drain tile better than the rock guards because it's more flexible so the header flexes better. I have the rock guard on my 800 head and don't like it. The drain tile will also keep rocks out.
Reel teeth are cut. Fix that so it feeds better and put 12" throw baler belting attached to reel like flaps so that each flap is hanging down about 3 inches past new reel teeth. Stagger the flaps so that every other bat has a flap in a position over the soybean row. As you go across the reel installing flaps, Make sure that for each soybean row, the flaps are put on the opposite three bats, and the next row the opposite three bats again going across the reel so that there are 18 evenly staggered flaps. Hope that I was clear.
Mover the header auger off the floor about 3/4" and as far forward as possible and if you have to add a link or two to the chain do it. It needs to be forward. I also took 3/4 or 5/8 inch lock washers and hammered them over the edge of the auger flighting going around placing one every third of a turn across the length of the auger. That wasn't easy but with a visegrip you can do it. Check to see if your auger flighting is square on its edge. If not square you can take a grinder across the edge of the auger flighting to square it up but be careful where the sparks fly because the sparks will melt into your windows.
Make sure your cylinder is level and your cylinder gauges on each side of the throat are zeroed. When the cylinder just ticks the concave on both sides, it is zeroed. Then set the cylinder at 1/4" going by your gauges which if you zeroed out the gauges correct, should be right.
Do you have wide spaced cylinder bars? If not, get them. They don't do quite as well on wet corn but are great in drier corn like 20% or less and are really great on soybeans, especially green stem soybeans. Does the concave have squared edges? If not then replace.
Make sure you have the fast sprocket on the beater shaft just behind the cylinder.
Do all this and you will gain a mile per hour at least in green stem soybeans and far less plugging..... Some have rigged up a reverser to these too.
You might have already known some or all of these tips but this all worked great for me. I didn't like my L2 in green stem soybeans until all this was done.
Tried the the pipe thing. It only helped in short beans but we hardly ever get 30 bu beans. Tried flaps on half the reel saw no difference. Square edged the auger that helped alittle. Auger is as far forward so it touches the reel. Teeth got caught cuz header controller wire came undone and they aren't cheap to replace. Made poly skids from a water tank and that helped alot and made sure we wd40 all the pivot points on the bottom that freeze up every year. The cylinder bars would help im sure, read you want the skip tooth ones for less drag. We were plugging up cuz there was weeds and grass next to the alfalfa and had shorter beans and when we were next to the grove and the beans were thin other wise it didn't plug after that
@@jamespetrich5610 I ran the drain pipe in short and tall beans. Did you try adjusting the reel finger pitch? That helped my 800 head but still going to put an orbit reel on. I had to take the pivot parts all apart on my 315 and lubed everything with never seize which helped a ton and every year since have had the dirty job of cleaning all that crap out from under there and spraying down with oil. Much cleaner job though on the 800 which I will be stripping down to tear apart and lube all the pivots this coming summer like I did on the 315. I couldn't get the control to work right until I tore it down on the 315 and I think the same will work on my 800.
The 3/4" wide space bars are much more aggressive at grabbing the gteen stemmed bean stalks and makes one heck of a difference. Some grind out every other tooth on the standard bars but then they also have to be precision balanced when you do that and I'm not sure how they act in corn vs the 3/4" bars. A reverser sure would have been nice on the L.
Did I mention that I also replaced the springs in the feeder beater slip clutch? And since they only have 4 springs in there and there is room for 8 I added 2 more with another 2 on hand if I thought I needed them. You could always put a green or red bean head on too but for me, my mods worked great. My next step, if I keep the L2, is stainless steel flex feather sheets like my 800, they are just steel and wearing through. Maybe the raised feather sheets.
@@jamespetrich5610 Even if you didn't plug much after that I think these mods will still help with sickle shatter. Back when these heads were new, at least in my area, green stem soybeans weren't a thing and 60 plus bushel beans weren't either. Dirt,Grain & Steel youtube channel put a Case 1020 head on their L2 and it does amazing with a 25' head vs their 1660 with only a 20' head. Look that channel up if you get a chance.
Ahoj. Kombajnu ta sója nějak nechutná 😀😀. Tak ať to sype. God bless farmers.
Cool to see a Gleaner out working, there are very few in my area. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
ijust cry a tear revering my dad driving a gleaner with me riding all day in the field
That's a gleaner I love
Safety first! Love the reminder at the end!
Always!
I would love to see a 30 ft. macdon on a L3.
Bet she'd swing it
love to have that platform, hate the large snouts
😄😃😀👍👍👏👏👏
Very nice L3