Like your videos. You could gain some alignment on the arbor by making a sharpie mark on the blade and measuring that mark at the front and back. On my woodworking tablesaw I rotate the blade with an open end wrench on the nut, which eliminates any lateral thrust I may influence things with. This procedure eliminates the blade wobble guesswork.
The washer that is used when mounting the blade to the arbor also needs to be parallel, washers can have a ridge since they are stamped it would be useful to lap it to ensure it is flat. Nice tutorial. Do you sell or make available plans for making a slab saw?
Hello Daniel, yes normally washers bought from hardware stores are stamped and do have a ridge, However, the washers used for the saw blades are spacial and larger in diameter with clearance around the shaft, manufactured on the lathe, so they're flat and parallel. I'm sorry I don't have plans for building the saw but thank you for watching my videos.
@@ElieGhanimeEG This is true, thought of that after posting. You do excellent work, I plan on doing my own equipment. What I don't like about the overly expensive cabbing machines is there is no bearing on the end of the shaft! Any little vibration is amplified because of it.
@@sfbfriend Doing your own equipments is very satisfying, when I built my cabbing machine I left extra length on the shaft just in case I needed to add the extra bearings on the ends but I didn't have to and it did work good, the only thing you have to watch is the grinding wheels you buy, if the shaft hole is not true to the outside diameter you will see small vibration. If you need any help or have any question, don't hesitate to ask.
@@ElieGhanimeEG Thank you, appreciate your input. I am retired from aerospace manufacturing. I would definitely have a bearing on both ends and am thinking of using roller bearings instead of ball, mainly because all force is directional. Anyway, that is the way I view it. Agree, if the fit isnt good, wheel to shaft you are going to be chasing vibration. Is this the author of this video? TH-cam has changed how the names are shown!
@@sfbfriend That sound good and for sure it will be better, I'm also a Mechanical Engineer and a retired General Manager from an Automotive company, one thing when using the machine is you don't need to apply any force on the grinding wheels, let the wheels do the work for you. I'm not sure what you mean about if this is the author of this video, I'm the one who create and make all my videos no one else 😊
Thank you. My husband is rebuilding an old slab saw and these are very helpful
Thank you Cindy for watching my videos, I’m sure you will end up with a great saw!
Like your videos. You could gain some alignment on the arbor by making a sharpie mark on the blade and measuring that mark at the front and back. On my woodworking tablesaw I rotate the blade with an open end wrench on the nut, which eliminates any lateral thrust I may influence things with. This procedure eliminates the blade wobble guesswork.
Wonderful breakdown on how to align the saw to the cut.
I liked your explaination. I would like to make a few slabs in the near future. Let's get together and set up the saw when you have some time.
The washer that is used when mounting the blade to the arbor also needs to be parallel, washers can have a ridge since they are stamped it would be useful to lap it to ensure it is flat. Nice tutorial. Do you sell or make available plans for making a slab saw?
Hello Daniel, yes normally washers bought from hardware stores are stamped and do have a ridge, However, the washers used for the saw blades are spacial and larger in diameter with clearance around the shaft, manufactured on the lathe, so they're flat and parallel.
I'm sorry I don't have plans for building the saw but thank you for watching my videos.
@@ElieGhanimeEG This is true, thought of that after posting. You do excellent work, I plan on doing my own equipment. What I don't like about the overly expensive cabbing machines is there is no bearing on the end of the shaft! Any little vibration is amplified because of it.
@@sfbfriend Doing your own equipments is very satisfying, when I built my cabbing machine I left extra length on the shaft just in case I needed to add the extra bearings on the ends but I didn't have to and it did work good, the only thing you have to watch is the grinding wheels you buy, if the shaft hole is not true to the outside diameter you will see small vibration. If you need any help or have any question, don't hesitate to ask.
@@ElieGhanimeEG Thank you, appreciate your input. I am retired from aerospace manufacturing. I would definitely have a bearing on both ends and am thinking of using roller bearings instead of ball, mainly because all force is directional. Anyway, that is the way I view it. Agree, if the fit isnt good, wheel to shaft you are going to be chasing vibration. Is this the author of this video? TH-cam has changed how the names are shown!
@@sfbfriend That sound good and for sure it will be better, I'm also a Mechanical Engineer and a retired General Manager from an Automotive company, one thing when using the machine is you don't need to apply any force on the grinding wheels, let the wheels do the work for you. I'm not sure what you mean about if this is the author of this video, I'm the one who create and make all my videos no one else 😊
Thank you . I got my lortone panther lined up nicely with this information
Glad to help.
Thank you for sharing this video .