This should have a lot more views considering the savings it represents! For whatever reason I never threw out 2 old blades that were bogging down in granite countertop material. Tin Oxide did nothing, same with an old grinding wheel. I spent 15 minutes doing this to both of them, spalpped them on, and it cuts like butter. This is an amazing trick, now im kicking myself for shilling out 90 apice for new blades without doing better research... Great video, shame on the youtube algorythm for not recomending it sooner!
I always just used an aluminum oxide wheel held at a 45 degree angle with both the wheel and cutting blade spinning. This is exactly how the blade manufactureres grind their blades after brazing the segments on. The idea is to remove a few thousandths of an inch of bond to expose the diamonds. The only way I found over 20 years to make a blade cut like new.
Highland Park Lapidary - Sweet. I’ve got four blades needing this treatment and it appears that I’m not doing something correctly. Until I figure it out all my saws are down or able to only make small slabs.
It would have helped me if the camera was actually on you striking the blade. I could have had a better idea of how hard and at what angle you were striking the blade.
What is the best cutting oil to use? I have a Highland Park saw that I inherited from my Grandfather in 1965 - and it was old then. He used a diesel fuel mixture. I used what was left until it was gone, but all of my clothes would stink afterward lol
I tried it on a 4" angle grinders tile blade and,fingering comparing it with new it feels sharper than new now. It could have just restored life into this 4" blade.
I’ve heard of this method but wasn’t quite sure how the strike the blade with the file nor for how long to strike the cutting face. - Thanks for the tip.
Hi, Produceman13 this will also work for smaller, thinner notched rimmed blades as long it works with diamond blades because this technique reexposes the diamonds on the blade. This is due to the blade becoming polished over time as the blade cuts through rock after rock. Hope this helps you to keep on cutting!!
@@HighlandParkLapidary It makes sense. I also use a file on the 3,000 resin wheel to make thin cuts across the surface horizontally. I think that tiny rock particles get flushed out in these hand cut channels. Otherwise the particles collect around the cab and scratch the hell out of it via hydroplaning. This happens a lot when a resin wheel gets too smooth. So I rough it up a bit. Thanks for the tip!
If the blade is cutting towards one side then binds do you need to bastard file the opposite edge of the blade more than the side in which it is cutting towards?
This should have a lot more views considering the savings it represents! For whatever reason I never threw out 2 old blades that were bogging down in granite countertop material. Tin Oxide did nothing, same with an old grinding wheel. I spent 15 minutes doing this to both of them, spalpped them on, and it cuts like butter. This is an amazing trick, now im kicking myself for shilling out 90 apice for new blades without doing better research... Great video, shame on the youtube algorythm for not recomending it sooner!
Worked extremely well. It's videos like this that save me time and buckets of money. Greatly appreciated.
Glad it helped, Shawn!
Your view on the file hitting the saw blade is so close could not actually see the file hitting the blade and at what angle
your captions say "ping the blade" but shouldn't it say "peen the blade"?
I always just used an aluminum oxide wheel held at a 45 degree angle with both the wheel and cutting blade spinning. This is exactly how the blade manufactureres grind their blades after brazing the segments on. The idea is to remove a few thousandths of an inch of bond to expose the diamonds. The only way I found over 20 years to make a blade cut like new.
It is amazing how well this works if you do just like he says.
Why not show us this method on an actual blade needing this technique? Better able to see the results.
When we get a chance we'll do that so you can see how it changes it. Thank you.
Highland Park Lapidary - Sweet. I’ve got four blades needing this treatment and it appears that I’m not doing something correctly. Until I figure it out all my saws are down or able to only make small slabs.
Does this work for a sintered blade?
can i use water with this blade
Since you didn't show what you were doing, I have not idea how you sharpened the blade. Sounded like you were beating on the side of the machine.
Hey, Jim! Give us a call at +512 348 8528. Lets talk things!
Could not see on the video how you are hitting the blade with the file
the cameraman didn't know what he was doing 😅
It would have helped me if the camera was actually on you striking the blade. I could have had a better idea of how hard and at what angle you were striking the blade.
Joy Baisden - exactly
Joy Baisden - my thoughts exactly! I’ve tried it but didn’t see results. Maybe I didn’t hit the blade edge properly or perhaps not hard enough.
I'm excited to try this on my little tile saw!
I'm making a brick oven and this just saved me hundreds in new blades! Thanks a bunch.
You are welcome. Let us know if you need anything else.
What is the best cutting oil to use? I have a Highland Park saw that I inherited from my Grandfather in 1965 - and it was old then. He used a diesel fuel mixture. I used what was left until it was gone, but all of my clothes would stink afterward lol
I tried it on a 4" angle grinders tile blade and,fingering comparing it with new it feels sharper than new now. It could have just restored life into this 4" blade.
got a sub! Thanks!
excellent tip
I’ve heard of this method but wasn’t quite sure how the strike the blade with the file nor for how long to strike the cutting face. - Thanks for the tip.
John first thank you for the video. Second do you use this same technique for your green line agate eater blades?
And for the thin line blades? Same process?
@@janicecramer5792 Gjake Win, yes we use the same technique for both.
Will this work on smaller, thinner notch rimmed blades like an MK 303?
Hi, Produceman13 this will also work for smaller, thinner notched rimmed blades as long it works with diamond blades because this technique reexposes the diamonds on the blade. This is due to the blade becoming polished over time as the blade cuts through rock after rock. Hope this helps you to keep on cutting!!
@@HighlandParkLapidary It makes sense. I also use a file on the 3,000 resin wheel to make thin cuts across the surface horizontally. I think that tiny rock particles get flushed out in these hand cut channels. Otherwise the particles collect around the cab and scratch the hell out of it via hydroplaning. This happens a lot when a resin wheel gets too smooth. So I rough it up a bit. Thanks for the tip!
If the blade is cutting towards one side then binds do you need to bastard file the opposite edge of the blade more than the side in which it is cutting towards?
Gonna try it!
I have a 900 stone saw. Would this method work on my blade. Thanks
Thank you for your video! Does this technique work with sintered blades as well?
It does
The only dressing method that works! I have tried all the rest on my Norton Turbo blade, but this one actually works. thank you for showing me this.
You're welcome.
This technique works! Thanks HPL!
Can this be done to dress a blade as well?
Genius 🤘
How do you sharpen the agate eater blade ????
Same way using the bastard file as we showed in this video. It works great and doesn't reduce the life of your blade.
Do you do that with the thin line too?
Yes but you will use a bit less force than with the segmented blades. When cutting hard material with a ThinLine, be sure to sharpen more often.
Brilliant
Thank you!
Thanks.
No biggies!
does this work on greenline agate eater type blade
?
Hi David, yes.
This will work on any type of blades.