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Great video and thank you to my fellow patrons who suggested it! Of course maintenace of your lapidary equipment is important! Nobody wants to spend that much money on a piece of equipment and have it breakdown because it wasnt being maintained! Its way to expensive to be disposable! So thank you jared for that important information! And the difference in the fins from the different maufacturers of the wheels, can be a nightmare to diagnose if you dont have this important information! I remember all the headache you went through trying to diagnose the problem with those other wheels! Boy what a difference the right equipment makes! You are a wonderful resource for people that dont know! Thank you for making these videos from your patrons suggestions because its invaluable to us! Thanks Jared!
I love this video because you’re showing most people how to take care of their equipment. I just got my first saw 3 days ago (Covington Engineering 10” trim saw) and have already put over 30 cuts on it. After watching a lot of your videos and speaking the person at Covington who actually builds my saw I modified my drain plugs to be straight throughs with on off valves and tubing to drain my saw on the fly. I also went through my saw after 2 days and pulled my cutting top and blade off to clean it up even though it’s an oil saw.
When I first got my Hi-Tech 10" saw and setting it up, the arbor was not in line with the brass bearing block. I took the motor cover off and loosened the mount bolts and adjusted the alignment until perfect. Easy fix but it is something to be aware of first time out.
I just discovered your channel a few days ago. I'm responsible for about 25 recent watch hours. Even better that you're in Spokane since I grew up in Pullman.
Thanks for the maintenance info. I do have a couple of questions. 1) When I first got my High Tech 6" trim saw I bought a dressing stick to dress the blade. I have not found that it seems to do anything. Does this jive with your experience? Incidentally the dressing stick is great for cleaning my disk on my slant cab after working with messy rocks. 2) I've been considering using oil with my trim saw but I'm concerned that breathing in a oil mist might not be to healthy. Do you have any advice?
I have tested those dressing sticks and from what I can tell they do nothing at all and if you want to dig deeper into that subject I have video titled "Do Dressing Sticks Work? // Testing Lapidary Saw Blade Sharpening Sticks". Breathing in oil mist is not good for you and you should wear a mask if you put oil in your trim saw.
Great tips! Just have one question. I've had some build up/sludge come out of my bearing block when i took it apart to clean. Wasn't sure if I needed to clean that out because it came greased. If I should, what lubricant should I apply after cleaning?
@@CurrentlyRockhoundingI appreciate the reply. Will message Hi-Tech and figure it out. Thanks again for the vid! Was so close to putting WD40 on my blade haha
This is more of a pinging question: I have followed your instructions from your blade repair video and have had mixed results. I have only had to do it once on my 80grit diamond hard wheel and I have been using it for over a year. I have two tile saw blades that I purchased a week ago that became instantly dull and pinging only lasts a cut or so. I have used those 4 dollar blades, they bend on me and won't cut chalcedony. My dad swears by his super expensive 24in blade as it has lasted him 10+ years and he hasn't had to repair it once. So how do I find a 6in or 8in blade that will cut Chalcedony and will last 100+ cuts. Some of ones on Kingsley North look like 3rd party blades, while others look promising, but I don't want to spend $65+ shipping to find out if they will last. This is a very long comment, but I would like some suggestions of good quality blades that we last.
What do you mean, you have been doing it on your 80grit hard wheel? The peening method is used for blade. Those cheap $4 blades on Amazon are not rated to be run on a tile saw. Cutting with oil is different from water, and comparing your father's 24" oil saw blade to your tilesaw isn't really a good comparison. Asking a tilesaw to make 100+ cuts of chalcedony without any care to the blade is unlikely to happen for you.
I'm getting really wary of this saw, when I cut halfway through a rock, it starts vibrating a lot. A few times it pulled my rock down and broke it in half. Just today, I had my finger underneath the rock and it pulled down the rock onto my finger really hard. I'm assuming my technique is obviously not very good..lol. Sometimes I feel like I need to hold it up a bit, otherwise the rock gets caught onto the ridges of the table. Halfway through a cut is where my struggle is, it seems as it won't cut any further. Any advice? I'm gonna bring my blades to the rock shop to have the guy look at them.
So it sounds like there's a number of things going on here. I'm also not a fan of the table-top on this saw. I think the main problem is your cutting technique, and it sounds like when you're cutting you are holding the rock off of the table, which if that is the case, you need to stop doing that as it's dangerous for you and the saw. The cutting process is slow and if you shouldn't be forcing the rock into the blade. If you shoot a video of yourself cutting, upload it to TH-cam and send me the link, I can help with what you're doing but I would need to see what exactly you're doing to help more.
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Did you enjoy this video and find it to be informative? You can help ensure that more videos just like this get made by supporting the project on Patreon. www.patreon.com/currentlyrockhounding
Maintenance is very important. I try to read recommendations occasionally so I always do Maintenance when necessary.
Great video and thank you to my fellow patrons who suggested it! Of course maintenace of your lapidary equipment is important! Nobody wants to spend that much money on a piece of equipment and have it breakdown because it wasnt being maintained! Its way to expensive to be disposable! So thank you jared for that important information! And the difference in the fins from the different maufacturers of the wheels, can be a nightmare to diagnose if you dont have this important information! I remember all the headache you went through trying to diagnose the problem with those other wheels! Boy what a difference the right equipment makes! You are a wonderful resource for people that dont know! Thank you for making these videos from your patrons suggestions because its invaluable to us! Thanks Jared!
Thank you so much for this!!! It's incredibly helpful!
I'm glad you liked it.
Great information Jared! Thanks for sharing!
I'm glad you liked it.
I love this video because you’re showing most people how to take care of their equipment. I just got my first saw 3 days ago (Covington Engineering 10” trim saw) and have already put over 30 cuts on it. After watching a lot of your videos and speaking the person at Covington who actually builds my saw I modified my drain plugs to be straight throughs with on off valves and tubing to drain my saw on the fly. I also went through my saw after 2 days and pulled my cutting top and blade off to clean it up even though it’s an oil saw.
When I first got my Hi-Tech 10" saw and setting it up, the arbor was not in line with the brass bearing block. I took the motor cover off and loosened the mount bolts and adjusted the alignment until perfect. Easy fix but it is something to be aware of first time out.
That's very good to note!
I just discovered your channel a few days ago. I'm responsible for about 25 recent watch hours. Even better that you're in Spokane since I grew up in Pullman.
Welcome! I'm glad you have been enjoying them and if you ever see me around town be sure to say hello!
I gotta get my machines set up this winter.
Winter is the time for projects and lapidary.
Thank you for the maintenance video, Jared!
I'm glad you liked it.
Very useful. Thanks!
even on my Bull Wheel the belts will try to walk off until it is up to speed. I just use a small dowel to keep it on. Works good
Good information. Thanks!
I'm glad you liked it.
Good video.
Thank you!
Thanks for the maintenance info. I do have a couple of questions.
1) When I first got my High Tech 6" trim saw I bought a dressing stick to dress the blade. I have not found that it seems to do anything. Does this jive with your experience? Incidentally the dressing stick is great for cleaning my disk on my slant cab after working with messy rocks.
2) I've been considering using oil with my trim saw but I'm concerned that breathing in a oil mist might not be to healthy. Do you have any advice?
I have tested those dressing sticks and from what I can tell they do nothing at all and if you want to dig deeper into that subject I have video titled "Do Dressing Sticks Work? // Testing Lapidary Saw Blade Sharpening Sticks".
Breathing in oil mist is not good for you and you should wear a mask if you put oil in your trim saw.
Great tips! Just have one question. I've had some build up/sludge come out of my bearing block when i took it apart to clean. Wasn't sure if I needed to clean that out because it came greased. If I should, what lubricant should I apply after cleaning?
That is a good question, i'm not sure what you should use exactly for re-greasing it.
@@CurrentlyRockhoundingI appreciate the reply. Will message Hi-Tech and figure it out. Thanks again for the vid! Was so close to putting WD40 on my blade haha
Not gonna lie. I thought Dorena and Mary were the names of your saws 😅. Definatly naming my 12" lortone Dorena now.
This is more of a pinging question: I have followed your instructions from your blade repair video and have had mixed results. I have only had to do it once on my 80grit diamond hard wheel and I have been using it for over a year. I have two tile saw blades that I purchased a week ago that became instantly dull and pinging only lasts a cut or so. I have used those 4 dollar blades, they bend on me and won't cut chalcedony. My dad swears by his super expensive 24in blade as it has lasted him 10+ years and he hasn't had to repair it once. So how do I find a 6in or 8in blade that will cut Chalcedony and will last 100+ cuts. Some of ones on Kingsley North look like 3rd party blades, while others look promising, but I don't want to spend $65+ shipping to find out if they will last.
This is a very long comment, but I would like some suggestions of good quality blades that we last.
What do you mean, you have been doing it on your 80grit hard wheel? The peening method is used for blade.
Those cheap $4 blades on Amazon are not rated to be run on a tile saw.
Cutting with oil is different from water, and comparing your father's 24" oil saw blade to your tilesaw isn't really a good comparison.
Asking a tilesaw to make 100+ cuts of chalcedony without any care to the blade is unlikely to happen for you.
I'm getting really wary of this saw, when I cut halfway through a rock, it starts vibrating a lot. A few times it pulled my rock down and broke it in half. Just today, I had my finger underneath the rock and it pulled down the rock onto my finger really hard. I'm assuming my technique is obviously not very good..lol. Sometimes I feel like I need to hold it up a bit, otherwise the rock gets caught onto the ridges of the table. Halfway through a cut is where my struggle is, it seems as it won't cut any further. Any advice? I'm gonna bring my blades to the rock shop to have the guy look at them.
So it sounds like there's a number of things going on here.
I'm also not a fan of the table-top on this saw.
I think the main problem is your cutting technique, and it sounds like when you're cutting you are holding the rock off of the table, which if that is the case, you need to stop doing that as it's dangerous for you and the saw.
The cutting process is slow and if you shouldn't be forcing the rock into the blade.
If you shoot a video of yourself cutting, upload it to TH-cam and send me the link, I can help with what you're doing but I would need to see what exactly you're doing to help more.