VASELINE..... Gonna pin this at the top before anyone gets in too much of a flap over Vaseline... Have no fear of Vaseline and o-rings, boots or gators. O-rings are made out of many different materials. I would suggest that those o-rings which are made to work in the automotive realm are made to be resistant to things such as oil, gasoline, and other petroleum products. This would include Vaseline. While Vaseline and other petroleum products may degrade "real rubber" (actually made from the rubber tree), current o-rings technology does not use natural rubber. There are rubber seals in your Petrol Tap.. Filler Cap.. and a rubber hose delivers the Gasoline to your Carburetor.. ..which also has a Rubber Diaphragm, and a Plastic air box...... ...AND NONE OF IT DISSOLVES...!
One other thing I would say is be wary about using brake fluid for lubricating the cylinder. I did it for a car slave cylinder I was working on once and I had to redo it again a year later. There's proper grease for it. Probably less of an issue due to location and mounting here but worth considering.
Most helpful and informative motorcycle maintenance and repair video channel I've come across. Every time I run into a problem I can't figure out on my own, I search and find the solution on your channel. Thank you.
Bought an old Wolverine 450. It's got a shot rear brake cylinder. Was gonna buy a whole new one. Ya saved me a bunch a cash. Thanks bro, and you get a solid thumbs up!
Sure thing buddy, it was an indulgence for the first 3mins or so, as the lead singer from that band is very unwell and we wanted to include it (my favourite song of theirs) just as a tribute to wish him well...
Nicely done! When I saw the corrosion gripping on the actuator rod, I seriously thought that cylinder was a goner. It surprised me when you saved it. Heavy corrosion is scary!
Thanks for sharing. This is exactly what I need , to disassemble the rear master cylinder, in order for me to tig weld a part, where the master cylinder reservoir is attached.
Awesome video. Love the attention to detail. I wish there was more commentary during the assembly, like what types of grease you're using, or other bits of advice for beginners like myself. I've learned a lot from you videos. You really are an amazing instructor! Thanks a lot Del!
Opened my eyes to what the problem with the Master Cylinder is while watching this. I just paid 173.00 for a new one and Next time I will rebuild it. I know you just did this on your Hayabusa and noticed your Master cyclinder is the same as my 07 Royal Star Venture. Thanks I'm a new subscriber.
Great video, Del. You really did a nice job and helped a lot of us along the way with this topic. Headed home today from here in Tokyo. Have a great weekend. 🏍👍🏍
this project is ticking away nicely .the trouble with your video's for me is that there so good i can't wait to see the finished bike but yet i am enjoying the process .either way have a great weekend and again thankyou for what you do
Very important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
Great video Del. I noticed a couple of very corroded fasteners that needed taming before you got to the business at hand. We've all had jobs where one friggin' frozen fastener costs more in time and effort and frustration than the problem that originally needed fixing. Can I suggest a "Simple Skill" session on stuck screws and bolts? How to get past them and how to avoid them next time. I will watch it, guaranteed.
Hi Paul.. good to hear from you mate, and thanks for the nudge.. that would be a good video for sure, there are a range of techniques to get past challenging fasteners, and also how to rescue things when they snap off or wring out.. ..I still have lots to do, and plenty of fasteners that will lend themselves well for a video like that... so watch this space.. ill get to it when i get time buddy. Have a good weekend.. and ride safe.. Del.
I learnt the hard way last week that petroleum based products don’t like brake seal’s . I thought the same that they would be resistant to petrol etc but mine swelled in the front brake master cylinder and the spring wouldn’t return the lever. I ended up having to replace all the seal’s. Enjoy your Chanel though 👍🏻
good old delboy tricks work every time another brilliant video del keep em coming ill have a busa 1 day so these videos will help like the bandit 1s did
Same here buddy.. heavy showers and sporadic sunshine, good chance to get some garage time under the belt.. have a good weekend too buddy, take care. D&Px
Great Friday night viewing again mate but not long enough after viewing I think that maybe what’s wrong with my rear brake as I was sat with my foot on it and it went right down 👍👍
Aha, that'll be your huckleberry mate, well there you go, you've seen how to do it, link in the description for Wemoto, jump online and order yourself a kit mate, think it was about £15 for that one, plus a bottle of brake fluid obviously!
Moonfleet41 yes you could be right there bud on it now will let you know the out come need to meet up again for a chat will give you a ring over the next couple of weeks 👍👍
Good video 👍🏻 I did the same job on my 83 Kawasaki z750 ltd a few weeks ago, it was in a similar state but all the fluid had run out of it also, I'm surprised my back brake worked the last time I rode it 😂😂
@@Moonfleet41 yep, all sorted now, bloody thing wouldn't pass fluid to the caliper after, thought I'd checked everything, took the banjo off, put my finger over the hole and kept pumping and then boom, out came the fluid, seems the small hole the fluid came out of was blocked with crud. Every day's a school day 😎👍🏻
You might use it all the time, but " Imperial " ( size ) is an 0lde terminology, we just say "Standard" ( * edit , I mean, we used to say it many years ago ) - as always really do appreciate your videos.
Be a bit careful with weights and measures, for example the American standard gallon is about 17% smaller than the UK Imperial gallon. Something like 3.7 litres Vs 4.5. So the systems aren't equivalent in *all* cases 🙃😁
I just did a master cylinder just like that not two weeks ago. Rather than rebuild it, I just purchased a new one. $20 USD, or something like 17GBP. I tend to replace master cylinders rather than rebuild if it's an easily available part and not too expensive. I've had way too many rebuilds that didn't take or didn't last very long. And at $95 an hour (my going rate) it's actually a lot cheaper to replace that one.
That's why mechanics are more fitters these days, much less fixing, just buy and refit. No more rebuilding starter motors or anything like that, well not for a long long time now. I'd rather do this if I feel I can, and I have the required tools, bet it's cheaper too. But that's why you're a Knuckle Head and I'm Half Dead ;)
Oh and your "going rate" is way to high, I'll be surprised if you get any work, or is everyone in your neck of the woods Knuckle Heads, especially if you're no good at fixing things lol "did not take or last long" WTF? lol.
@@HalfdeadRider I guess you're just a better wrench than me and never ever make any mistakes or have to redo something that failed. Good on ya. Glad to hear there are perfect mechanics out there. I charge what most of the other shops around here charge. Some more, some less. But I stand by my statement. Why take an hour to rebuild a $20 part? Just because I can? That makes no business sense, and it's not in the best interest of the customer. I specialize in motors and transmissions, so it's clearly an economy of scale... A new motor can cost significantly more than a lot of repairs so it makes sense to rebuild. A $20 master cylinder? Not so much.
@@azb2010 No, I wouldn't be halfdead if I was not born with kidney failure :) Mechanics workshops here usually charge less than you said you do for labour (bike mechanics a lot less). Main dealers (cars) charges vary on the job. Servicing at a main dealer can be much more expensive per hour, up to £200+ then parts and materials on top. It could possibly be cheaper if you shop around, but one quick search found a rebuild kit for the Busa, just over $21, I did not look for here but that converts to around £16 currently. As a business these days, a lot of the time profits go above environmental factors and quality of workmanship unfortunately. Also Del is not doing it for business, nor would I, so makes more sense a lot of times to refurbish rather than replace. BTW, I was not having a go, I was having a bit of a laugh, seems that went over your head, sorry I hurt you a little in the feels ;)
Thank you very much. It did look like a fairly easy job, or maybe because you make most things look easy. :) Looking at it though, I'm dreading what I will find when I open up mine. 20 years old and I've ridden it all winter. Ahwell. Also, thank you for explaining about using Vaseline instead of red grease. It's been a few years since I played around with petroleum jelly. :) Btw, any tips how to keep that stupid spring for the brake light working smoothly, along with the brake foot lever pivot? The spring is covered by the bracket near the foot peg, it gunks up, it's really hard to reach with fingers to give it a clean and a grease and I've actually lost my back brakes for a day on my old bike because the brake lever wasn't moving anymore because of all the grit and gunk. I hope all is well with you and Penny. Best wishes to you both and hoping for some sunshine for your weekend. :).
I was wondering that too! Turns out it's to support the piston in the bore better while still allowing the brake fluid to reach both seals (because the hole that the fluid enters the cylinder from is kinda in the side and needs to moosh past the plunger body towards the seals evenly) what a messy job 😖
This looks similar to my V-Stroms rear master cylinder. Except that mine has a line in on the top from the ABS pump. Would having abs make the rebuild job much different?
Hi, I do appreciate the work you do and you already saved me lots of money working on my bike. I recently bought GS 1200 LC in excellent condition. The only issue it has is with the rear brake which started to bug me. I checked several websites and this seems to be a common issue with GS1200 motorbikes. The rear brake pedal goes down till it no longer functioning. I flushed the system, changed the oil, bleeded the system but nothing worked. I took it to the dealership who changed the master cylinder but after few minutes of driving it went down and didn't work. Then they changed the real brake caliper but the problem persists . After several attempts they told me they are clueless. Luckily i got my money back. The thing is, the pedal goes down, but there brake liquid doesn't leak, i checked the level and it's always at Max. No leakage or any drop of liquid anywhere on or beneath the bike. Do you have any suggestion what the issue might be?
OK, a possible suggestion, it may be a blown master cylinder seal.... so 'Question', does the brake work if you pump the pedal rather then hold it pressed down.... meaning, does it only sink slowly when you hold the pedal pressed?
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you for the quick answer. - Yes, the brake will work anytime I pump it. - The pedal WILL NOT sink if pressed and hold down. - The more I use it the more it sinks. - If I pump it while riding it will work but will start to "fade" quickly till it's completely not braking. - Worth saying that I won't sink if I don't use it. (either if the bike on the garage or didn't press it while riding)
OK, then it's clear... The seals in the brake master cylinder will most likely be leaking fluid past... if you're not familiar with the system, when you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder piston forces the fluid down to the brake caliper and clamps the brake pads against the disc... In your case, it is most likely that the rubber seal inside that master cylinder is failing and allowing fluid to pass back the other side of it.... this won't leak out as the system is sealed, which is why you have a full fluid level still... but as the seal is not sealing when you press the pedal, the piston is moving down the cylinder but some fluid is escaping back past it.. when you release, the seal retracts back as it is designed to flow through the fluid backwards, but seal and force the fluid forwards.... if you simply replace the rubber seals in the master cylinder, this will most likely cure your problem... I've had this many times with both front and rear in many bikes, and a new seal kit fixes it..it's just wear and tear. not much money for the kit, your BMW dealer should be able to order them for you... I hope that helps you out, and good luck with it. !
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you Del. That make sense! I'll try to change the seals in the master cylinder myself and come back to you with the results. I hope it will work as all the repairs I learned from your videos did 🙂 Thank you again and talk to you soon!
@@Moonfleet41 hi Del. Unfortunately the problem was not solved. I got brand new master cylinder and the problem remains the same. The pedal will work great for few minutes then it sinks all the way down.
Another great vid and really informative Del! Quick question on using the wire wheel... When cleaning up metal is there a rule for knowing what will rust and what won't? Thanks for all the vids!
Hi Mike, Rust is caused by the Iron content in the metal oxidizing...so for metal to rust, it must contain iron, and a good quick check is to lay a magnet on it.. if the metal is magnetic then generally speaking it will rust if not protected.. Some stainless steel is mildly magnetic, but it does resist corrosion quite well...
Hey. Great video.. I have a Ninja and the piston in the master cylinder does not retract back. I've tried changing the brake fluid but nothing happens. The piston when applied pressure moves inside the cylinder but does not retract when pressure is removed. What could be the reason for this? Please help🥺
I’m under the impression that since Vaseline is a petroleum product, it shouldn’t be used as a lubricant on rubber and plastic parts, as it can eat them away. But I could be wrong. I’m just an amateur.
@@FrAdamVoisin Sorry mate, I was being cheeky there... but seriously it's a quite logic question, but the fact that most rubber in automotive use is not genuine rubber from rubber trees (which would perish), it's all manner of different substances, silicone, nitrile (the stuff surgical gloves are made of), and all sorts of other things that don't contain organic rubber, and Vaseline is a mixture of mineral oil and wax, it's perfect for sealing out water, or wee wee from baby's bums lol... (and that's serious, cos urine contains ammonia and uric acid which, as you know, causes nappy rash, a minor chemical burn, and we use Vaseline to prevent it, so it's quite safe buddy)...
Very good. Somewhere along the way, I was told to never use Vaseline on plastics and rubbers. Maybe it’s not so big a deal. Keep up the excellent work!
Hey, so I rebuilt my rear master on my bandit gsf600s watching your video and using an All Balls Racing kit. The issue I am having is the caliper pistons will push out, clamp onto the disk and then refuse to retract like normal. The brake pedal height is adjusted per the FSM but in order to reach that height I had to adjust the nuts to the end of the threaded rod. I have taken apart the caliper and the master twice now to check my work and everything appears to be correct. The brake line is also new, made by Galfer USA. Any ideas?
Great video, very helpful info!! I have a Suzuki GSF250 and it has pretty much the same rear brake master. It has been sitting for a while and the circlip is completely rusted + sort of welded onto the ram plate (?) it's resting on. The circlip ears were horribly weak and broke off immediately like old flaky rust, because the seals on the plunger had leaked and allowed brake fluid to seep down soaking everything. Please help! Any suggestions on getting the circlip/snap ring off without damaging the cylinder body would be hugely appreciated! We don't have replacement parts *at all* for Japanese Suzuki motorcycles where I live and had to even get the rebuild kit shipped from China. PS - I believe that plunger is a 12.7 mm / 0.5" by the look of it?
Hi there Nisal, if the circlip ears have broken off, then there is no easy fix... the best you can do is try to lever out the remains with a thin tiny screwdriver, it won't be easy, but a little penetrating fluid and warm it up and you may make it move... but if all else fails, perhaps you could get a second hand master cylinder from another bike? Do you have people selling second hand spares there? That would be the only option if it truly won't come out... it may help if you push down the plunger to hold the weight off the circlip and a little patience, you may prise it out...
@@Moonfleet41 @Delboy's Garage Hi Del, thank you so much for the quick response!! Guess it's just a matter of luck to see if I can get this off then; heating it up didn't occur to me but will definitely try that, thanks again! The circlip is literally sort of welded together with the lower metal plate it sits on with rust itself and I was afraid to clamp it down in a vice and try pulling out, in case the groove got damaged. Any progress I've made so far has been with a small flathead screwdriver as you suggested but there's very little space to work with, making it all the more difficult. Yes we do have lots of parts for JP Honda bikes but only for those, no Suzuki, Yamaha and literally zero Kawasaki parts. I've a broken indicator (shared with Yamaha Zeal 250 if I'm not mistaken) which I've been hunting for months, no option to bring down either due to the pandemic situation. I had a look at some Honda master cylinders (need to buy the whole thing, with reservoir and all) but all of them are differently sized, shapes and lengths, especially the screw holes being out of line with the GSF 250 holder.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Del, after trying out various methods over the past few weeks without any luck, I had almost given up on the cylinder and was about to replace it with replica Chinese cylinder for Honda's by drilling out correct spacing. But we had to visit a machine shop to get some parts for a friend and I took the cylinder just in case and asked them to somehow disassemble it whichever way possible, that I didn't really mind even if the whole thing breaks in the process because I had no other option. I described to them what you followed, I'm not sure *how* they did it, but they had removed all the rusted out bits with minimal damage to the aluminium cylinder body and disassembled within 15 minutes!! They don't work on brakes at all, mostly engine boring, sleeving and valve grinding but such a relief I can get rear brakes working again. Thank you so much for the very helpful and informative videos!
@@viduranisal Wow that's good news Nisal, glad they've got it fixed for you, I guess they have the equipment and experience to find a solution! Glad you can get your brakes back working again, nowt like having the original parts in order instead of Chinese replacements!
Wondering why the plunger appears to be designed with that worm gear appearance? I've never rebuilt one but will be doing slave and master on my PC800 soon . Thanks for this bidder
The rear wheel on my R6 won’t spin more than half a turn after the rear brake is applied following a rear wheel fitting or brake pad clean up etc suggesting the caliper piston doesn’t retract. Do you think a caliper seal replacement will sort it or is it more likely the master cylinder that need a overhaul ?
Do the caliper first, the seals are cheap, it's usually that, that's where all the grime and dust is that will jam it up... and if it still jams up.. then have a look at the master..
Muito bom. Mais um video top parabéns pelo trabalho fico aqui admirado com suas ferramentas são muito bem cuidadas e organizadas, coisa de profissional. Q material marrom e esse q vc passa nos parafusos? Fiquei curioso não conheço. Um abraço e boas estradas
Muito obrigado por suas amáveis palavras!... Que bom que você gosta dos vídeos!... o composto marrom que eu espalhar sobre os parafusos é uma solução de cobre líquido para pará-los enferrujar no lugar... está disponível em lojas de automóveis!
@@Moonfleet41 vlw obrigado pelo esclarecimento, se um dia vier ao Brasil da um alô pra nós marcarmos uma volta de moto nos principais pontos de motociclistas do Brasil 💪💪
@@andersonbros6560 Obrigado pelo gentil convite, podemos apenas aceitá-lo naquele dia! Nós gostaríamos de viajar e ver o Brasil lindo ... andar seguro e nós dois apreciamos o seu apoio!
Yeah, strictly speaking you do.. but painting bolt heads is a waste of time, as soon as you put a tool on them it will ruin the paint.. stainless steel fasteners is the true remedy.. but a smear of grease over them will keep it at bay.
Hey Del! My spring doesn't come out like yours does in the video. It's not worn and everything was clean before I started putting it back together. Now the spring with the rubber part is stuck in the cylinder and doesn't want to come out. What do I do? Thank you!
Hi there.. you could hook it out with a curled piece of wire or a seal pick if you have one.. but you may damage the rubber cup... so if it was all clean before, and functions ok now, then re-assembly everything and test it to see if it works ok on the bike.. if not, you'll have to hook it out and maybe risk damaging it. !
NO, Corrosion makes removal very difficult...as you found with heat and hammer.... Medium strength threadlock holds the fastener in place and prevents corrosion too.. so when you want it undone, it gives up easily..!
Nice.. Btw dell need some advise, i am changing the engine oil in my 16 hayabusa, i want to use the engine flush , its by STP. Should i use it, will it be beneficial?
Hi there Ragz... You Don't need engine flush in a 3 year old Japanese bike mate... just warm up the engine, drain the old oil for a hour to get as much out as possible, change the filer and refill with new oil....that will be fine mate.. Good luck with it.
(P) Your videos always give me such a confidence boost.... So I actually do most "maintenance" jobs myself these days now. And my old VFR is due an MOT this month so will get tinkering and checking! have a great weekend Del and Penny :-)
Hey Christopher, Great to hear from you Sir.. hope the VFR makes you no problems.. they're pretty tough and resilient, so im sure it'll fly through... Great to hear you're doing it all yourself too mate... thats how it should be.. Take care and have a good weekend too.. Cheers, D&Px
Not really keeping a tally on this one mate.. TBH it scares me when i work out what they cost.so far i think the parts bill alone is just over a grand.. the 12 rebuild kits for the front calipers were £255.!!!
VASELINE.....
Gonna pin this at the top before anyone gets in too much of a flap over Vaseline...
Have no fear of Vaseline and o-rings, boots or gators.
O-rings are made out of many different materials. I would suggest that those o-rings which are made to work in the automotive realm are made to be resistant to things such as oil, gasoline, and other petroleum products. This would include Vaseline. While Vaseline and other petroleum products may degrade "real rubber" (actually made from the rubber tree), current o-rings technology does not use natural rubber.
There are rubber seals in your Petrol Tap.. Filler Cap.. and a rubber hose delivers the Gasoline to your Carburetor.. ..which also has a Rubber Diaphragm, and a Plastic air box......
...AND NONE OF IT DISSOLVES...!
'Vase line'; cross that one & she throws vases . . . (sorry : )
Funny stuff...
Out of the night
Came a terrible scream
"WHO PUT THE SAND
IN THE VASELINE?!"
Thank you so much. I was misinformed from numerous sources
One other thing I would say is be wary about using brake fluid for lubricating the cylinder. I did it for a car slave cylinder I was working on once and I had to redo it again a year later. There's proper grease for it. Probably less of an issue due to location and mounting here but worth considering.
Most helpful and informative motorcycle maintenance and repair video channel I've come across. Every time I run into a problem I can't figure out on my own, I search and find the solution on your channel.
Thank you.
Great to hear, thanks for your feedback, appreciated!
After watching this video i was able to rebuild my master cylinder.
I appreciate the time you put into making these video's.
Thank you!!
Bought an old Wolverine 450. It's got a shot rear brake cylinder. Was gonna buy a whole new one. Ya saved me a bunch a cash. Thanks bro, and you get a solid thumbs up!
Thanks for the feedback Sir.. im glad the video could help you.
Thanks for the next installment. I'm usually not a fan of music in videos but you picked a good one.
Sure thing buddy, it was an indulgence for the first 3mins or so, as the lead singer from that band is very unwell and we wanted to include it (my favourite song of theirs) just as a tribute to wish him well...
Thank you for the video. It is also good to see, that you are working on used bikes, with all the problems or visual use of the equipment.
Dang! You make this video very therapeutic Del! I love it!
Excellent video, and thank you for preempting my Vaseline question 😀
Nicely done! When I saw the corrosion gripping on the actuator rod, I seriously thought that cylinder was a goner. It surprised me when you saved it. Heavy corrosion is scary!
Sire thing Scott.. if there had been pitting and corrosion inside the bore, then it would have been toast... but thankfully it was just external..
Thanks for sharing. This is exactly what I need , to disassemble the rear master cylinder, in order for me to tig weld a part, where the master cylinder reservoir is attached.
Glad it helped
Hi Del
Just read a bed time story to my 2,5 year old doughter Charlie. When we finishen she told me that its time for dad to look at DelBoy vids ;-)
Ha ha ha.. Blimey, she's got you measured aye buddy... Seriously, thanks for your kind support mate.. its good to hear from you..
Awesome video. Love the attention to detail. I wish there was more commentary during the assembly, like what types of grease you're using, or other bits of advice for beginners like myself. I've learned a lot from you videos. You really are an amazing instructor! Thanks a lot Del!
Opened my eyes to what the problem with the Master Cylinder is while watching this. I just paid 173.00 for a new one and Next time I will rebuild it. I know you just did this on your Hayabusa and noticed your Master cyclinder is the same as my 07 Royal Star Venture. Thanks I'm a new subscriber.
This bus has been received from life, but now it also gets the loving care that it deserves.
Professional assembly as always!
Great video, Del. You really did a nice job and helped a lot of us along the way with this topic. Headed home today from here in Tokyo. Have a great weekend. 🏍👍🏍
Thanks Gary... Safe travels my friend..
Moonfleet41 thx. Mate!
this project is ticking away nicely .the trouble with your video's for me is that there so good i can't wait to see the finished bike but yet i am enjoying the process .either way have a great weekend and again thankyou for what you do
Thank you Tom, thats very kind of you my friend, we're really glad you enjoy the videos.
Doc! Those same two frame screws at the beginning wouldn't budge for me, either. Heat and the hammer worked for me.
Like always exelent job my friend!!!
Certainly very intetesting about the vaseline 😎
Have a very boca Sunday my friend!!!
Regards 👍👍👍👍👍
liked the way you released the stubborn screw/bolts many a time i have rounded of the heads , still learning
Awesome video and you had some squeaky boats at the beginning of the video😂🤣 Penny and you Del have a wonderful weekend and ride safely
Hi Paul.. yeah, those were on a level of creaky that the Adams family butler would have appreciated..lol!
You made it so easy and given me confidence to have a go, great job Del keep it up.
Thanks mate, but it's not a hard job, take your time you can do it!
That poor bike I’d imagine never seen a motorcycle cover or garage before you del . Another great video 👍🏻
Recon you're right Shane, its a mess aye... Thanks for watching buddy.
That thing was a mess, now it's better than new!👍
Have a great weekend 😃
Thanks Harold. Wasn't it just, proper nasty in there, as with all the other jobs so far.... getting pretty used to expecting it now..lol!
Del, great video series. Leaned some new tricks & helped me solve some problems too. Thanks again...
Glad to help, and thanks for the kind feedback Bob.
Great video as usual but holy crap you loaded that sensor bolt with locktite. That sucker is never coming out again lol
Very important to mention… When the piston is in the rest position, the brake fluid will be balanced via The compensation hole. This compensation hole is very small, clean this compensation hole with a very thin wire of copper, if it would clog… you are guaranteed a dragging caliper, this has already happened to me twice!!! with the Honda CBX 1000. Stay Safe.
Yet another good "how to"vid,sounds like it was throwing it down outside so much for flaming June even down south
Yeah, it was a nasty old morning mate... cleared up by lunchtime though.
Love these stand alone vids Del certainly going to be useful at some point to so many people including myself!
Great video Del. I noticed a couple of very corroded fasteners that needed taming before you got to the business at hand. We've all had jobs where one friggin' frozen fastener costs more in time and effort and frustration than the problem that originally needed fixing. Can I suggest a "Simple Skill" session on stuck screws and bolts? How to get past them and how to avoid them next time. I will watch it, guaranteed.
Hi Paul.. good to hear from you mate, and thanks for the nudge.. that would be a good video for sure, there are a range of techniques to get past challenging fasteners, and also how to rescue things when they snap off or wring out.. ..I still have lots to do, and plenty of fasteners that will lend themselves well for a video like that... so watch this space.. ill get to it when i get time buddy. Have a good weekend.. and ride safe.. Del.
Nice to see a proper job
I like the way you reuse part and don't just replace excellent
Great stuff ,del.🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴
I learnt the hard way last week that petroleum based products don’t like brake seal’s . I thought the same that they would be resistant to petrol etc but mine swelled in the front brake master cylinder and the spring wouldn’t return the lever. I ended up having to replace all the seal’s. Enjoy your Chanel though 👍🏻
Excellent video - really enjoy how you break each video into small tasks!
Many thanks Del for the video. It was such a pleasure to watch it !
Thank you Marius, you're very kind..
The action starts @ 3:24 good job!
Good stuff, hope we see more like that!
good old delboy tricks work every time another brilliant video del keep em coming ill have a busa 1 day so these videos will help like the bandit 1s did
Thanks buddy.. good to hear from you mate.. Hope life is good.
Verte trabajar es increíble Bro, saludos
Good luck getting the sprocket bolt out again !! 😱😱
It's temporary Threadlock buddy, it'll come out a darn sight easier than those footpeg bolts did, it's designed to break free when you want it too...
@@Moonfleet41 Its the Blue pill not the Red one (Matrix).
Always a treat and a learning experience, Del and Penny. Great work!
Nicely done Del, the project is ticking along nicely mate. Penny and you have a great weekend in the sun. It's bloody raining here :(
Cheers
Same here buddy.. heavy showers and sporadic sunshine, good chance to get some garage time under the belt.. have a good weekend too buddy, take care. D&Px
I am wondering that cleaning all the screws in such a way removes the protection and can rust easily in the near future. Any comments?
Excellent tutorial as always.👍🏻
Thanks for the video! I want to repair my brembo master cylinder
Just about to do front and back on a 86 Suzuki gs850g. Good edit and guidance
Thanks del great vid. .looking forward to seeing how you do the clutch master cylinder cos I think mine needs doing as my clutch won't engage
Hi buddy, good to hear form you.. Doing the Slave cylinder next.. maybe that'll help..
@@Moonfleet41 thanks del will be watching closely
(P) Nicely done. Damn that white powdery corrosion was terrible. Happy weekend to you both!
Wasn't it just mate?! What a mess aye?... all sorted now! Have a good weekend too, D&Px
Excellent presentation.thanks again for sharing.
Good video Del & Penny, Cheers, Doug
Great start to the weekend! Cheers!
Great vid del you make it easy for us to understand thanks mate
No worries Colin, it's simple stuff, just housekeeping aye! Good luck with yours...
Wow! Your incredible dude. I hope you get paid for this. Ty!!
Very good informative video Del. Thank you
Cheers buddy, glad you enjoyed!
Thanks Del always learning from you
I’ll have to get the Vaseline out of the bedroom drawer 🤪🤪😂.
Great Friday night viewing again mate but not long enough after viewing I think that maybe what’s wrong with my rear brake as I was sat with my foot on it and it went right down 👍👍
Aha, that'll be your huckleberry mate, well there you go, you've seen how to do it, link in the description for Wemoto, jump online and order yourself a kit mate, think it was about £15 for that one, plus a bottle of brake fluid obviously!
Moonfleet41 yes you could be right there bud on it now will let you know the out come need to meet up again for a chat will give you a ring over the next couple of weeks 👍👍
Thank you!
You're welcome!
Hi Del, any tips on how to get the new piston seal on? It’s infuriating!
Good video 👍🏻 I did the same job on my 83 Kawasaki z750 ltd a few weeks ago, it was in a similar state but all the fluid had run out of it also, I'm surprised my back brake worked the last time I rode it 😂😂
Blimey, sounds like you just caught it in time aye mate... lucky escape..
@@Moonfleet41 yep, all sorted now, bloody thing wouldn't pass fluid to the caliper after, thought I'd checked everything, took the banjo off, put my finger over the hole and kept pumping and then boom, out came the fluid, seems the small hole the fluid came out of was blocked with crud. Every day's a school day 😎👍🏻
Thanks a lots...
As simple as that👌.
Nice one
Take care
Dieter
Better than new
Great Video, love to watch them and learn a lot... Greetings from germany
Tip top Job .. 👍 with a hint of good old Vaseline 🤔 . P.s. I hear The heavens falling outside ☔.
Hey buddy.. yeah, proper nasty old morning, but it cleared up by lunchtime... good day to spend in the garage aye..
I use vaseline myself. Never a problem. Superb vid matey
You might use it all the time, but " Imperial " ( size ) is an 0lde terminology, we just say "Standard" ( * edit , I mean, we used to say it many years ago )
- as always really do appreciate your videos.
Be a bit careful with weights and measures, for example the American standard gallon is about 17% smaller than the UK Imperial gallon. Something like 3.7 litres Vs 4.5. So the systems aren't equivalent in *all* cases 🙃😁
Love work
Very helpful
Any suggestions with sticky clutch plates without having to pull it all apart? On a busa.
Many thanks
Hey buddy, clutch plates get stuck together with oil so an oil change is always beneficial?
excellent as usual. Many thanks
I just did a master cylinder just like that not two weeks ago. Rather than rebuild it, I just purchased a new one. $20 USD, or something like 17GBP. I tend to replace master cylinders rather than rebuild if it's an easily available part and not too expensive. I've had way too many rebuilds that didn't take or didn't last very long. And at $95 an hour (my going rate) it's actually a lot cheaper to replace that one.
That's why mechanics are more fitters these days, much less fixing, just buy and refit. No more rebuilding starter motors or anything like that, well not for a long long time now. I'd rather do this if I feel I can, and I have the required tools, bet it's cheaper too. But that's why you're a Knuckle Head and I'm Half Dead ;)
Oh and your "going rate" is way to high, I'll be surprised if you get any work, or is everyone in your neck of the woods Knuckle Heads, especially if you're no good at fixing things lol "did not take or last long" WTF? lol.
@@HalfdeadRider I guess you're just a better wrench than me and never ever make any mistakes or have to redo something that failed. Good on ya. Glad to hear there are perfect mechanics out there. I charge what most of the other shops around here charge. Some more, some less.
But I stand by my statement. Why take an hour to rebuild a $20 part? Just because I can? That makes no business sense, and it's not in the best interest of the customer. I specialize in motors and transmissions, so it's clearly an economy of scale... A new motor can cost significantly more than a lot of repairs so it makes sense to rebuild. A $20 master cylinder? Not so much.
@@HalfdeadRider It's not cheaper in this particular instance. Simple business practice. Maybe you wouldn't be halfdead if you worked smarter. ;)
@@azb2010 No, I wouldn't be halfdead if I was not born with kidney failure :)
Mechanics workshops here usually charge less than you said you do for labour (bike mechanics a lot less). Main dealers (cars) charges vary on the job. Servicing at a main dealer can be much more expensive per hour, up to £200+ then parts and materials on top.
It could possibly be cheaper if you shop around, but one quick search found a rebuild kit for the Busa, just over $21, I did not look for here but that converts to around £16 currently.
As a business these days, a lot of the time profits go above environmental factors and quality of workmanship unfortunately. Also Del is not doing it for business, nor would I, so makes more sense a lot of times to refurbish rather than replace.
BTW, I was not having a go, I was having a bit of a laugh, seems that went over your head, sorry I hurt you a little in the feels ;)
Very good
Thank you very much. It did look like a fairly easy job, or maybe because you make most things look easy. :) Looking at it though, I'm dreading what I will find when I open up mine. 20 years old and I've ridden it all winter. Ahwell. Also, thank you for explaining about using Vaseline instead of red grease. It's been a few years since I played around with petroleum jelly. :) Btw, any tips how to keep that stupid spring for the brake light working smoothly, along with the brake foot lever pivot? The spring is covered by the bracket near the foot peg, it gunks up, it's really hard to reach with fingers to give it a clean and a grease and I've actually lost my back brakes for a day on my old bike because the brake lever wasn't moving anymore because of all the grit and gunk. I hope all is well with you and Penny. Best wishes to you both and hoping for some sunshine for your weekend. :).
Great to watch and enjoyable thanks :)
Anybody know why the cylinder itself is threaded like a screw? It doesn't rotate does it?
I was wondering that too! Turns out it's to support the piston in the bore better while still allowing the brake fluid to reach both seals (because the hole that the fluid enters the cylinder from is kinda in the side and needs to moosh past the plunger body towards the seals evenly) what a messy job 😖
great vid as per del. cheers fella
That's one strange looking master cylinder..
yess
This looks similar to my V-Stroms rear master cylinder. Except that mine has a line in on the top from the ABS pump. Would having abs make the rebuild job much different?
No, not the re-build itself of the cylinder, but obviously re-bleeding the system is a little more involved as am sure you know.
Hi, I do appreciate the work you do and you already saved me lots of money working on my bike.
I recently bought GS 1200 LC in excellent condition. The only issue it has is with the rear brake which started to bug me. I checked several websites and this seems to be a common issue with GS1200 motorbikes.
The rear brake pedal goes down till it no longer functioning. I flushed the system, changed the oil, bleeded the system but nothing worked. I took it to the dealership who changed the master cylinder but after few minutes of driving it went down and didn't work. Then they changed the real brake caliper but the problem persists . After several attempts they told me they are clueless. Luckily i got my money back.
The thing is, the pedal goes down, but there brake liquid doesn't leak, i checked the level and it's always at Max. No leakage or any drop of liquid anywhere on or beneath the bike. Do you have any suggestion what the issue might be?
OK, a possible suggestion, it may be a blown master cylinder seal.... so 'Question', does the brake work if you pump the pedal rather then hold it pressed down.... meaning, does it only sink slowly when you hold the pedal pressed?
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you for the quick answer.
- Yes, the brake will work anytime I pump it.
- The pedal WILL NOT sink if pressed and hold down.
- The more I use it the more it sinks.
- If I pump it while riding it will work but will start to "fade" quickly till it's completely not braking.
- Worth saying that I won't sink if I don't use it. (either if the bike on the garage or didn't press it while riding)
OK, then it's clear... The seals in the brake master cylinder will most likely be leaking fluid past... if you're not familiar with the system, when you press the brake pedal, the master cylinder piston forces the fluid down to the brake caliper and clamps the brake pads against the disc... In your case, it is most likely that the rubber seal inside that master cylinder is failing and allowing fluid to pass back the other side of it.... this won't leak out as the system is sealed, which is why you have a full fluid level still... but as the seal is not sealing when you press the pedal, the piston is moving down the cylinder but some fluid is escaping back past it.. when you release, the seal retracts back as it is designed to flow through the fluid backwards, but seal and force the fluid forwards.... if you simply replace the rubber seals in the master cylinder, this will most likely cure your problem... I've had this many times with both front and rear in many bikes, and a new seal kit fixes it..it's just wear and tear. not much money for the kit, your BMW dealer should be able to order them for you... I hope that helps you out, and good luck with it. !
@@Moonfleet41 Thank you Del. That make sense! I'll try to change the seals in the master cylinder myself and come back to you with the results. I hope it will work as all the repairs I learned from your videos did 🙂 Thank you again and talk to you soon!
@@Moonfleet41 hi Del. Unfortunately the problem was not solved. I got brand new master cylinder and the problem remains the same. The pedal will work great for few minutes then it sinks all the way down.
Another great vid and really informative Del! Quick question on using the wire wheel... When cleaning up metal is there a rule for knowing what will rust and what won't? Thanks for all the vids!
Hi Mike, Rust is caused by the Iron content in the metal oxidizing...so for metal to rust, it must contain iron, and a good quick check is to lay a magnet on it.. if the metal is magnetic then generally speaking it will rust if not protected..
Some stainless steel is mildly magnetic, but it does resist corrosion quite well...
@@Moonfleet41 cheers Del! Keep up the great work with the 'busa 👍
Hey. Great video..
I have a Ninja and the piston in the master cylinder does not retract back. I've tried changing the brake fluid but nothing happens. The piston when applied pressure moves inside the cylinder but does not retract when pressure is removed. What could be the reason for this?
Please help🥺
I’m under the impression that since Vaseline is a petroleum product, it shouldn’t be used as a lubricant on rubber and plastic parts, as it can eat them away. But I could be wrong. I’m just an amateur.
It eats plastic parts?... why doesn't it eat the pot it comes in then.?
Moonfleet41 good point
@@FrAdamVoisin Sorry mate, I was being cheeky there... but seriously it's a quite logic question, but the fact that most rubber in automotive use is not genuine rubber from rubber trees (which would perish), it's all manner of different substances, silicone, nitrile (the stuff surgical gloves are made of), and all sorts of other things that don't contain organic rubber, and Vaseline is a mixture of mineral oil and wax, it's perfect for sealing out water, or wee wee from baby's bums lol... (and that's serious, cos urine contains ammonia and uric acid which, as you know, causes nappy rash, a minor chemical burn, and we use Vaseline to prevent it, so it's quite safe buddy)...
Very good. Somewhere along the way, I was told to never use Vaseline on plastics and rubbers. Maybe it’s not so big a deal. Keep up the excellent work!
@@FrAdamVoisin Yeah, common old wives tail buddy...
Hey, so I rebuilt my rear master on my bandit gsf600s watching your video and using an All Balls Racing kit. The issue I am having is the caliper pistons will push out, clamp onto the disk and then refuse to retract like normal. The brake pedal height is adjusted per the FSM but in order to reach that height I had to adjust the nuts to the end of the threaded rod. I have taken apart the caliper and the master twice now to check my work and everything appears to be correct. The brake line is also new, made by Galfer USA. Any ideas?
How can i understand that we need change ?is the brake soft?does it go down or is there or does it loose many liquids from the pump of brake?
Great video, very helpful info!!
I have a Suzuki GSF250 and it has pretty much the same rear brake master. It has been sitting for a while and the circlip is completely rusted + sort of welded onto the ram plate (?) it's resting on. The circlip ears were horribly weak and broke off immediately like old flaky rust, because the seals on the plunger had leaked and allowed brake fluid to seep down soaking everything.
Please help! Any suggestions on getting the circlip/snap ring off without damaging the cylinder body would be hugely appreciated! We don't have replacement parts *at all* for Japanese Suzuki motorcycles where I live and had to even get the rebuild kit shipped from China.
PS - I believe that plunger is a 12.7 mm / 0.5" by the look of it?
Hi there Nisal, if the circlip ears have broken off, then there is no easy fix... the best you can do is try to lever out the remains with a thin tiny screwdriver, it won't be easy, but a little penetrating fluid and warm it up and you may make it move... but if all else fails, perhaps you could get a second hand master cylinder from another bike? Do you have people selling second hand spares there? That would be the only option if it truly won't come out... it may help if you push down the plunger to hold the weight off the circlip and a little patience, you may prise it out...
@@Moonfleet41 @Delboy's Garage Hi Del, thank you so much for the quick response!!
Guess it's just a matter of luck to see if I can get this off then; heating it up didn't occur to me but will definitely try that, thanks again! The circlip is literally sort of welded together with the lower metal plate it sits on with rust itself and I was afraid to clamp it down in a vice and try pulling out, in case the groove got damaged. Any progress I've made so far has been with a small flathead screwdriver as you suggested but there's very little space to work with, making it all the more difficult.
Yes we do have lots of parts for JP Honda bikes but only for those, no Suzuki, Yamaha and literally zero Kawasaki parts. I've a broken indicator (shared with Yamaha Zeal 250 if I'm not mistaken) which I've been hunting for months, no option to bring down either due to the pandemic situation.
I had a look at some Honda master cylinders (need to buy the whole thing, with reservoir and all) but all of them are differently sized, shapes and lengths, especially the screw holes being out of line with the GSF 250 holder.
@@Moonfleet41 Hi Del, after trying out various methods over the past few weeks without any luck, I had almost given up on the cylinder and was about to replace it with replica Chinese cylinder for Honda's by drilling out correct spacing. But we had to visit a machine shop to get some parts for a friend and I took the cylinder just in case and asked them to somehow disassemble it whichever way possible, that I didn't really mind even if the whole thing breaks in the process because I had no other option.
I described to them what you followed, I'm not sure *how* they did it, but they had removed all the rusted out bits with minimal damage to the aluminium cylinder body and disassembled within 15 minutes!! They don't work on brakes at all, mostly engine boring, sleeving and valve grinding but such a relief I can get rear brakes working again.
Thank you so much for the very helpful and informative videos!
@@viduranisal Wow that's good news Nisal, glad they've got it fixed for you, I guess they have the equipment and experience to find a solution! Glad you can get your brakes back working again, nowt like having the original parts in order instead of Chinese replacements!
Wondering why the plunger appears to be designed with that worm gear appearance? I've never rebuilt one but will be doing slave and master on my PC800 soon . Thanks for this bidder
@David Stevenson Ah ha! Thanks, David
The rear wheel on my R6 won’t spin more than half a turn after the rear brake is applied following a rear wheel fitting or brake pad clean up etc suggesting the caliper piston doesn’t retract. Do you think a caliper seal replacement will sort it or is it more likely the master cylinder that need a overhaul ?
Do the caliper first, the seals are cheap, it's usually that, that's where all the grime and dust is that will jam it up... and if it still jams up.. then have a look at the master..
Muito bom. Mais um video top parabéns pelo trabalho fico aqui admirado com suas ferramentas são muito bem cuidadas e organizadas, coisa de profissional.
Q material marrom e esse q vc passa nos parafusos? Fiquei curioso não conheço. Um abraço e boas estradas
Muito obrigado por suas amáveis palavras!... Que bom que você gosta dos vídeos!... o composto marrom que eu espalhar sobre os parafusos é uma solução de cobre líquido para pará-los enferrujar no lugar... está disponível em lojas de automóveis!
@@Moonfleet41 vlw obrigado pelo esclarecimento, se um dia vier ao Brasil da um alô pra nós marcarmos uma volta de moto nos principais pontos de motociclistas do Brasil 💪💪
@@andersonbros6560 Obrigado pelo gentil convite, podemos apenas aceitá-lo naquele dia! Nós gostaríamos de viajar e ver o Brasil lindo ... andar seguro e nós dois apreciamos o seu apoio!
Hi mate silly question time, when you wire wheel and clean up the bits do you need to coat/paint them to protect the metal?
Yeah, strictly speaking you do.. but painting bolt heads is a waste of time, as soon as you put a tool on them it will ruin the paint.. stainless steel fasteners is the true remedy.. but a smear of grease over them will keep it at bay.
Cheers how about the slave cylinder ? Or is that a hard metal so weather proof
@@lambo2817 Hydraulic cylinders are usually cast aluminium..
Those first bolts 😮 the corrosion!
Where do you get the blue threadlock del?
Any decent automotive parts shop should stock it or alternatively you can search the web.
Hi Simone, Yeah, messy aye... You can buy regular blue threadlock online of from any car accessory store..
Hey Del! My spring doesn't come out like yours does in the video. It's not worn and everything was clean before I started putting it back together. Now the spring with the rubber part is stuck in the cylinder and doesn't want to come out. What do I do? Thank you!
Hi there.. you could hook it out with a curled piece of wire or a seal pick if you have one.. but you may damage the rubber cup... so if it was all clean before, and functions ok now, then re-assembly everything and test it to see if it works ok on the bike.. if not, you'll have to hook it out and maybe risk damaging it. !
Liberal use of blue LocTite? Does everyone to that?
Thought it was for race applications, and thought it makes removal very difficult.
NO, Corrosion makes removal very difficult...as you found with heat and hammer.... Medium strength threadlock holds the fastener in place and prevents corrosion too.. so when you want it undone, it gives up easily..!
@@Moonfleet41 TY. You are a mensch.
@@Redmenace96 Thank you kindly Sir..!
Nice..
Btw dell need some advise, i am changing the engine oil in my 16 hayabusa, i want to use the engine flush , its by STP. Should i use it, will it be beneficial?
Hi there Ragz... You Don't need engine flush in a 3 year old Japanese bike mate... just warm up the engine, drain the old oil for a hour to get as much out as possible, change the filer and refill with new oil....that will be fine mate.. Good luck with it.
How did you get the bottom bowl out with the spring on it?
Mine is stuck down in there
good vid del 👍👍
Great
Orientation of seals!!!!!
(P) Your videos always give me such a confidence boost.... So I actually do most "maintenance" jobs myself these days now.
And my old VFR is due an MOT this month so will get tinkering and checking!
have a great weekend Del and Penny :-)
Hey Christopher, Great to hear from you Sir.. hope the VFR makes you no problems.. they're pretty tough and resilient, so im sure it'll fly through... Great to hear you're doing it all yourself too mate... thats how it should be.. Take care and have a good weekend too.. Cheers, D&Px
Great work bro, I hope that you tell as the cost at the end of this build 👍
Not really keeping a tally on this one mate.. TBH it scares me when i work out what they cost.so far i think the parts bill alone is just over a grand.. the 12 rebuild kits for the front calipers were £255.!!!
Are you going to use dot 5 fluid when you fill it up?
I don't see any reason not to Dave, the whole system will be dry apart from the front hoses...so yeah, it's a thought.
Tq sir for great vid..