Hi Mike, I had same, did it under the car, what a bugger of a job. Replaced sun/planet gear set & new thrust washers and it removed the clonk & eliminated the backlash felt at the wheel when fitted with new halfshafts & HD drive members. I fitted a genuine LR gear Set RTC4488 but believe the Bearmach sun/planet gear set is ok too. Worth doing & quite easy once you have the diff out. I think the wear found in mine was caused by worn pinion oil seal leaking oil & resulting in poor lubrication & cooling. My pinion drive flange had a great big groove in it and the PO’s garage had just fitted a new oil seal which would have only lasted minutes before leaking again, doh! So much for the professionals at Arbroath garage who mullered everything they touched.
Told you the existing shims would be right and the mesh spot on! You owe me a drink! 😆 Next time I do this, it’ll be on the vehicle again (109) to fit Dana 60 4.1:1 gears and a Quaife ATB. Now, that will certainly involve setting up shims on the diff centre and quite likely the pinion. 😞
Welcome to the club,if you remember my post when l had to put a elocker in mine while the vehicle was on car ramps,l still have nightmares about it and it does whine slightly. Next time l send it of to a diff place.😁😁
A bit of "round and round in ever decreasing circles" is good for character building Mike. It's amazing how some jobs, that should be straightforward, can land you in such a frustrating place.
Just did the pinion seal on mine using the same flange, had to change the thrower as it was catching as you said. Found the rubber seal was a good fit, but ended up doing as you did and adjusted the play out by feel.
Yes, the resistance of the seal makes it very hard to measure and yes you can feel when it it right - but it is only a fraction of a turn to put too much load on the bearings
Totally agree about complexity of the video process and accessibility for “amateurs”. I’ve done it a few times on big truck axle when I was young…….believe me this job need a big amount of patience , focus and mechanical skill, and yes axle definitely on a bench ‘cause “embedded” differential are pain in the butt heavy. I remember visiting BERLIET truck manufacture in ‘77, and seeing guys doing this all day at the assembling workshop.
So the moral of the story is buy a good used diff or axle, or go to Ashcroft, save yourself the pain and frustration! If you as an engineer have a bad day there is no hope for most of us! Enjoyed the video though! 😀
Moral of the story, get your diffs done by some body that knows what he's doing and change oil, change oil, change oil! Ooh, and make sure the breathers are not blocked and high enough not to get water in them, water will wreck them quick.
I can feel with you. I have been there too. Just to crack the nut of the flange open was a nightmare. Tightening and setting it up under the car was a bigger nightmare.
Hi Mike, Superb, you are so good and honest, i have a salisbury axle that i will pass on to a commercial gearbox/ axle chap ( he is a Landy man too), SO a LSD and Ductile iron cover can be fitted, these have a higher oil level, so when in motion lower units are not starved of oil, so on a standard pan the plug should be 1" higher, Regards, Phil
When I did a Salisbury last year, the old gauge worked well with the magnet that can be turned on and off. I did end up taking the axle off, though. Great explanations!
I once had a LDV truck that had a noisy axle because of bad maintenance by the previous owners. I looked up the procedure for sorting it and made the decision it would have to be shouting a lot louder before I'd be attempting to repair it. Deform the casing to get the bloody diff out, sod that..
Cheers Mike, I'm just about to squeeze a 110 diff into my 109 axle for the hell of it, I am now looking forward to the world a pain that awaits me. lol
Hi Mike, like you I have had a go at Salisbury axles a long time ago without any experience whatsoever, resulting in the same frustration you went through (and my axles were removed). Lately I'm doing another 2 axles (fitting difflocks) but have since manufactured some bearing removal tools set-up bearings etc. to make life easier. After reading through most manuals regarding the salisbury axle including ones for the dana 60 and taking some measurements on bearings and several trial and error fitting, I am convinced that if there are no signs of abnormal wear on the components etc, the old shims packs on carrier and pinion can be retained if genuine timken bearings are used (as used by manufacturer). If fitting difflocks, as in my case, the carrier measurements have to be carried out just the same, but these are relatively easy if you have dummy bearings. Another thing about that new flange with flinger. I had the same problem with mine a couple of months ago. There are 2 part no's depending on year of manufacture. I'm sure I ordered the correct item but it did not fit so I decided to remove the shield to machine approx. 3 mm for it to fit correctly. But before doing that I ordered 2 fingers (shop4autoparts uk), just in case I destroyed the old one during removal. I received the new ones just 2 days ago and to my surprise they were shallower than the old one by the same amount I needed to machine. Maybe this is a solution for your flange.
Thanks for the Info Ian! I think next time on the bench for me, as I wanted to explain the principal of shimming to the viewers but boy was it difficult to work on in the vehicle! The reason I bought the red mag mount was that it would centrally locate on the finished end of the pinion, where as the switch on/off regular block type we are familiar will straddled the machined part and would probably give an incorrect reading Shimming itself is kinda easy to understand, but the book does not portray this very well I agree on swapping the bearings and shimming - however there will be someone out there who will try and fit used parts into an old axle and it seems to be the machining on the axle casing that can vary
@@BritannicaRestorations Agreed the switchable magnetic block does not fit nicely on the pinion face and will surely produce errors. Also, as you said, replacing the casing and/or fitting parts from another axle requires complete re-shimming as casings have tolerances also. I once replaced a damaged front axle casing on a willys jeep (small dana 25 I think) for a friend...we manufactured two dummy disks as a replacement for carrier bearings and an arbor in the center holes of the discs. We measured the pinion depth from the arbor as reference on the old casing setup and reproduced the the same measurement on the new casing as we used the same internal components. It seems to have done the job. Looking forward to the 'on the bench' version.
Yes Ian - I think a lot of these axle 'clonkings' are NOT from crownwheel/pinion backlash as we think, but the gears inside the diff itself as I filmed SO - maybe this COULD be a DIY job as the sun/planet gears/thrust washers are an easy fix and do not touch shimming or adjustments However I did find the tool to remove the diff paid for itself! Anyone can pry out the diff with pry bars = getting it back in is the problem!
@@BritannicaRestorations Absolutely Mike, the spreading tool is the first tool I bought, no dead blow hammers for me! Obviously I put a dti across the diff opening as an indication of the stretching.
Mike ur using a permanent magnet base... I have a few mag bases where u can turn on and off the magnet use them as u can put them on and then turn the magnet on alot easier as i use them alot clocking up jobs on a wire edm machine. Jobs are always a lurning experience and quiet often u look back and kick ur self asking y dont i do it that way as it would of made life easier. At least u inform people about it and not let them just go and do it and find out the hard way.
Wow Mike - that put you though it! Bet the Jameson’s bottle is a bit lighter now! From memory i belive the smaller Salisbury’s that they put on mgb gt’s had that thrust washer clunk issue as well. Plenty written about fixing that on the interwebs - prob very similar here
Setting up diffs.......... Ball ache every single time, do it perfect over many hours, give them the once over a 1000 miles later like it was put together with only a BFH. Prefer to pay someone now, some comeback if it goes wrong.
Mike. Ranting from the Yorkshireman ? This is way above my pay scale, which is when a 10 spline rear axle broke chasing a mates 'Detroit' D1 up a dry waterfall - just got 24 spline rear axle to replace it. 'Muriel from Malawi' strikes again ! V.
As you said in a previous video Mike, just go to scrap yard and get another complete axle, cheaper and less stress, in this case as your customer is on a budget then surely a replacement axle would have been the correct way forward.
I have a 109 axle In the cellar waiting .... I have been avoiding the job for about six months finding other jobs to do first. Someday it will be the last job to do.....
I know what your say in you can live with it but when you hear the noise yours be surprised there all the same I'm going to get the cross joint welded and we machined to suite the carrier and gears
@@BritannicaRestorations - OH HELL NO! - You've chosen the RIGHT path My Son. From the Book of JobsWorth: ''For it is better (and more legal) to fiddle with engines, than it is to fiddle with Choir Boys''
Problem with the rear axle, is that the diff is not a 'bolt in' unit but built into the casing hence a lot of set up to do due the machining tolerances of the axle
Eesh. I enjoy poking around with the Rover type diffs and was hoping to put a Truetrac in my 110 Salisbury but Lockdown is about to end so l'd rather just drive the bloody thing now.
Did you ever do a video rebuilding a standard Rover diff? I’m sure they used shims on the planet gears on the series diffs, but there isn’t any on the defender. Just wondering if I could shim the planet gears on my defender if it’s a bit worn rather than getting a gear kit.
What about if you were changing the rear diff for a detroit locker, changing the original bearings and ring gear over to the new centre would you need to do redo all the settings?
That's not hair on his head, it's his Halo....only a Saint would have so much patience BTW, I see that cylinder head is racking up those additional hundreds of thousands of miles😂😂
WELL!!! . It just go's to show that the moral of the story is true. A faint heart never fu"^*ked a pig. (LOL) Or, you gave it a go and found out that it wasn't worth the effort. That's a good lesson to learn Mike, great video, told the way that it is. Stay safe, Yorkshire Rob.
As long as I can test-fit things to check clearances and set shims I don't mind doing it. When you have to start pressing bearings into place, or fitting crush-washers and spacers - just to test-fit something - that's when I pay somebody else to do it. I've noticed a recent trend for grinding bearings so they can be a slip-fit on things so they can be assembled for shimming. Even that gives me the heeby-jeebies cos a) there's no guarantee that your proper bearing is going to be identical to your test bearing and b) even if it is, there's no guarantee that it'll seat in exactly the same position and create exactly the same clearances. Stuff like this is, IMO, just lousy design. In the case of the planetary gears, for example, could they not have drilled holes in the diff' carrier so threaded adjusters could be fitted?
Take a look at the early Dana 60 axle this is based on - they had shims in the nose and adjustable 'carriers' for the diff itself - so they used the old fashioned method of bluing teeth to get a good mesh
Think I wont venture anywhere near the diff. It has a clunking noise and It does leak oil from the diff. Should I just change the oil seal or leave it?
Bryan= if you change the seal you 'should' replace the collapseable sleeve at the same time, because you can over or under tighten the nut - tough call
@@BritannicaRestorations - Can you tell me if the replacement part you show in the video is the same size as the old one so that the counting the turns method 'could' be used?
tell you what i reckon you would better off fitting a detroit locking diff than repairing the diff , time you put the hours in and the gain in traction, this is one occassion adding a locking diff would be a cheap option ;0)
What's point o' watching Mike struggling wi' a bloody awkward diff. It would have extended my knowledge of old Yorkshire blasphemy and been good for a laugh whilst I sit here wi' mi' mug of tea mutterings 'I remember when' and ' back in the day'.
Should have seen me today struggling with a propshaft that was 'repaired' in Malawi - they had hammered it so hard the yokes were 3mm out of true - could not get the circlips in - well - they only fitted one properly
Looking forward to the salisbury videos, two main limitations from my point of view....the yt p22 yukon bearing separator and the torque wrench on the pre-load, both pricey bits of kit especially on import. Left it well alone on my rear axle, has been driving fine, will change it one day. th-cam.com/video/ysBqO3lRdOk/w-d-xo.html
Man you need to get a haircut. It’s not the 80’s anymore ya know. Either that or tie it up to make sure it’s not going to get caught up in rotating parts.
Thank you Mike for the brutally honest approach to your dilema. It was a pleasure to watch the presentation
My pleasure!
Hi Mike, I had same, did it under the car, what a bugger of a job. Replaced sun/planet gear set & new thrust washers and it removed the clonk & eliminated the backlash felt at the wheel when fitted with new halfshafts & HD drive members. I fitted a genuine LR gear Set RTC4488 but believe the Bearmach sun/planet gear set is ok too. Worth doing & quite easy once you have the diff out. I think the wear found in mine was caused by worn pinion oil seal leaking oil & resulting in poor lubrication & cooling. My pinion drive flange had a great big groove in it and the PO’s garage had just fitted a new oil seal which would have only lasted minutes before leaking again, doh! So much for the professionals at Arbroath garage who mullered everything they touched.
Indeed - spoiling the sheep for a h'apeth or tar!
Told you the existing shims would be right and the mesh spot on! You owe me a drink! 😆
Next time I do this, it’ll be on the vehicle again (109) to fit Dana 60 4.1:1 gears and a Quaife ATB. Now, that will certainly involve setting up shims on the diff centre and quite likely the pinion. 😞
Have fun!
don't be sorry buddy! I'm happy with all I've seen so far. Thanks also for the stuff I've ordered. it came today! 😍👍
Awesome thank you!
In an odd way it's satisfying to know even professionals can have troubles like us mortals, thank you Mick for another real mechanic video
Thanks Tom!
Mmmm,…intelligence +experience =wisdom . Thank you for another great vid ,(and comments section !)
Thanks for watching!
Welcome to the club,if you remember my post when l had to put a elocker in mine while the vehicle was on car ramps,l still have nightmares about it and it does whine slightly. Next time l send it of to a diff place.😁😁
Yes they are a bugger to work on and very easy to get wrong
A bit of "round and round in ever decreasing circles" is good for character building Mike. It's amazing how some jobs, that should be straightforward, can land you in such a frustrating place.
Indeed Gray - this was like keyhole surgery on the vehicle - difficult to do and easy to bugger up
Things happen Mike glad you explained the outcome 👍👍👍👍
Thanks 👍
Just did the pinion seal on mine using the same flange, had to change the thrower as it was catching as you said. Found the rubber seal was a good fit, but ended up doing as you did and adjusted the play out by feel.
Yes, the resistance of the seal makes it very hard to measure
and yes you can feel when it it right - but it is only a fraction of a turn to put too much load on the bearings
Totally agree about complexity of the video process and accessibility for “amateurs”.
I’ve done it a few times on big truck axle when I was young…….believe me this job need a big amount of patience , focus and mechanical skill, and yes axle definitely on a bench ‘cause “embedded” differential are pain in the butt heavy.
I remember visiting BERLIET truck manufacture in ‘77, and seeing guys doing this all day at the assembling workshop.
Yes they are not the lightest of items
So the moral of the story is buy a good used diff or axle, or go to Ashcroft, save yourself the pain and frustration! If you as an engineer have a bad day there is no hope for most of us! Enjoyed the video though! 😀
Well said!
Moral of the story, get your diffs done by some body that knows what he's doing and change oil, change oil, change oil! Ooh, and make sure the breathers are not blocked and high enough not to get water in them, water will wreck them quick.
Also do not overtighten the filler plug as I have seen them drop into the axle!
You brought back my nightmares. I did all the bearings, seals and thrust washers, with the axle out. Bloody heavy to shift on your own too!
Indeed they are!
I can feel with you. I have been there too. Just to crack the nut of the flange open was a nightmare. Tightening and setting it up under the car was a bigger nightmare.
Lol! The original Dana 60 was set up with shims in the pinion and adjusters in the axle for the diff - all cut down to save money I guess
Fill it with sawdust and oil 🙂👍🇨🇮
Good idea!
Or banana skins...
My dad use to put my mums tights in his back axle ( no she wasn’t in them lol)
Hi Mike, Superb, you are so good and honest, i have a salisbury axle that i will pass on to a commercial gearbox/ axle chap ( he is a Landy man too), SO a LSD and Ductile iron cover can be fitted, these have a higher oil level, so when in motion lower units are not starved of oil, so on a standard pan the plug should be 1" higher, Regards, Phil
Sounds great!
Darn I was waiting to see how to do it. Can wait the day you will record how to do it. Cheers Mike 🥃
You and me both!
@@BritannicaRestorations 🤣👍
When I did a Salisbury last year, the old gauge worked well with the magnet that can be turned on and off. I did end up taking the axle off, though. Great explanations!
Interesting!
Hi Mike happy Easter iv always known that the diff has to have play or clunking for off road use designed that way to protect the gearbox
That's a new on on me!
I once had a LDV truck that had a noisy axle because of bad maintenance by the previous owners. I looked up the procedure for sorting it and made the decision it would have to be shouting a lot louder before I'd be attempting to repair it. Deform the casing to get the bloody diff out, sod that..
Lot of work!
Cheers Mike, I'm just about to squeeze a 110 diff into my 109 axle for the hell of it, I am now looking forward to the world a pain that awaits me. lol
Yes you will have to check the shimming as it is going in a different casing
@@BritannicaRestorations Can I borrow your gadget? lol
Hi Mike, like you I have had a go at Salisbury axles a long time ago without any experience whatsoever, resulting in the same frustration you went through (and my axles were removed). Lately I'm doing another 2 axles (fitting difflocks) but have since manufactured some bearing removal tools set-up bearings etc. to make life easier. After reading through most manuals regarding the salisbury axle including ones for the dana 60 and taking some measurements on bearings and several trial and error fitting, I am convinced that if there are no signs of abnormal wear on the components etc, the old shims packs on carrier and pinion can be retained if genuine timken bearings are used (as used by manufacturer). If fitting difflocks, as in my case, the carrier measurements have to be carried out just the same, but these are relatively easy if you have dummy bearings.
Another thing about that new flange with flinger. I had the same problem with mine a couple of months ago. There are 2 part no's depending on year of manufacture. I'm sure I ordered the correct item but it did not fit so I decided to remove the shield to machine approx. 3 mm for it to fit correctly. But before doing that I ordered 2 fingers (shop4autoparts uk), just in case I destroyed the old one during removal. I received the new ones just 2 days ago and to my surprise they were shallower than the old one by the same amount I needed to machine. Maybe this is a solution for your flange.
Thanks for the Info Ian! I think next time on the bench for me, as I wanted to explain the principal of shimming to the viewers but boy was it difficult to work on in the vehicle!
The reason I bought the red mag mount was that it would centrally locate on the finished end of the pinion, where as the switch on/off regular block type we are familiar will straddled the machined part and would probably give an incorrect reading
Shimming itself is kinda easy to understand, but the book does not portray this very well
I agree on swapping the bearings and shimming - however there will be someone out there who will try and fit used parts into an old axle and it seems to be the machining on the axle casing that can vary
@@BritannicaRestorations Agreed the switchable magnetic block does not fit nicely on the pinion face and will surely produce errors. Also, as you said, replacing the casing and/or fitting parts from another axle requires complete re-shimming as casings have tolerances also. I once replaced a damaged front axle casing on a willys jeep (small dana 25 I think) for a friend...we manufactured two dummy disks as a replacement for carrier bearings and an arbor in the center holes of the discs. We measured the pinion depth from the arbor as reference on the old casing setup and reproduced the the same measurement on the new casing as we used the same internal components. It seems to have done the job. Looking forward to the 'on the bench' version.
Yes Ian - I think a lot of these axle 'clonkings' are NOT from crownwheel/pinion backlash as we think, but the gears inside the diff itself as I filmed
SO - maybe this COULD be a DIY job as the sun/planet gears/thrust washers are an easy fix and do not touch shimming or adjustments
However I did find the tool to remove the diff paid for itself!
Anyone can pry out the diff with pry bars = getting it back in is the problem!
@@BritannicaRestorations Absolutely Mike, the spreading tool is the first tool I bought, no dead blow hammers for me! Obviously I put a dti across the diff opening as an indication of the stretching.
I could not get the diff back in without the tool
Hi Mike 🤔 just saying hi and thanks again 👍👍👍🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
No problem 👍
'Diff'initely leaving mine alone. Hair is looking nice btw.
Thank you!
Mike ur using a permanent magnet base... I have a few mag bases where u can turn on and off the magnet use them as u can put them on and then turn the magnet on alot easier as i use them alot clocking up jobs on a wire edm machine. Jobs are always a lurning experience and quiet often u look back and kick ur self asking y dont i do it that way as it would of made life easier. At least u inform people about it and not let them just go and do it and find out the hard way.
Yes - I do not want people thinking all jobs are easy but way beyond their pay grade!
Thanks Mike.
Wow Mike - that put you though it! Bet the Jameson’s bottle is a bit lighter now!
From memory i belive the smaller Salisbury’s that they put on mgb gt’s had that thrust washer clunk issue as well. Plenty written about fixing that on the interwebs - prob very similar here
Even worse Tim - No Jameson's in the shop!
Happy Easter Mike, great video as always
Thanks! You too!
Well said mike.top man.
Thanks!
Setting up diffs.......... Ball ache every single time, do it perfect over many hours, give them the once over a 1000 miles later like it was put together with only a BFH. Prefer to pay someone now, some comeback if it goes wrong.
Mike. Ranting from the Yorkshireman ? This is way above my pay scale, which is when a 10 spline rear axle broke chasing a mates 'Detroit' D1 up a dry waterfall - just got 24 spline rear axle to replace it. 'Muriel from Malawi' strikes again ! V.
Mike, I think you should do an out takes video. Nothing instructional, just a laugh at proving your human like the rest of us 😂
Yes maybe I should save some up!
As you said in a previous video Mike, just go to scrap yard and get another complete axle, cheaper and less stress, in this case as your customer is on a budget then surely a replacement axle would have been the correct way forward.
Well it is 90% there now - The contact and shimming is good but the diff internal gears are knocking
I have a 109 axle In the cellar waiting .... I have been avoiding the job for about six months finding other jobs to do first. Someday it will be the last job to do.....
I know what your say in you can live with it but when you hear the noise yours be surprised there all the same I'm going to get the cross joint welded and we machined to suite the carrier and gears
Mike could you use a torque multiplier and a paint pen to crush the spacer? 🙂 just a thought matey
It is possible
Turning the bar at 7:29 was the start of your problems? Nah Mike. The problems all started 40 years ago when you got into Landrovers....
I should have been a priest!
@@BritannicaRestorations - OH HELL NO! - You've chosen the RIGHT path My Son. From the Book of JobsWorth: ''For it is better (and more legal) to fiddle with engines, than it is to fiddle with Choir Boys''
Lol!
I always thought diffs were just a standard assembly, I never knew they had to be precisely set up
Problem with the rear axle, is that the diff is not a 'bolt in' unit but built into the casing hence a lot of set up to do due the machining tolerances of the axle
@@BritannicaRestorations Ahh I see, so the axle is actually part of the of the diff assembly
Yes - that is why the need shimming if any major work is to be done
Seems to me that you had a serious difference of a pinion
I see where you went with that! Well done lol!
👍👍
Eesh. I enjoy poking around with the Rover type diffs and was hoping to put a Truetrac in my 110 Salisbury but Lockdown is about to end so l'd rather just drive the bloody thing now.
Well, lockdown will be back in autumn so better get the parts in lol!
Did you ever do a video rebuilding a standard Rover diff?
I’m sure they used shims on the planet gears on the series diffs, but there isn’t any on the defender.
Just wondering if I could shim the planet gears on my defender if it’s a bit worn rather than getting a gear kit.
Nope I have not done one but trailerfitter has
What about if you were changing the rear diff for a detroit locker, changing the original bearings and ring gear over to the new centre would you need to do redo all the settings?
Probabley
That's not hair on his head, it's his Halo....only a Saint would have so much patience
BTW, I see that cylinder head is racking up those additional hundreds of thousands of miles😂😂
Indeed it does have it's uses!
Is your mag mount on your dti a switicable one? Would make life slightly better on ataching it
It is on the old one but not on the new one
WELL!!! . It just go's to show that the moral of the story is true. A faint heart never fu"^*ked a pig. (LOL) Or, you gave it a go and found out that it wasn't worth the effort. That's a good lesson to learn Mike, great video, told the way that it is. Stay safe, Yorkshire Rob.
Thanks Rob - happy Easter!
Have you got specs or a video of that little tool you made there at 8:29 Mike?
Sorry no - I bought some square bar - cut it in two and got JP to bore holes in it and then bought a length of 1 inch UNF stud bar and cut it in 2
@@BritannicaRestorations Ok, thanks again Mike.
Lol , i always ask myself, how did they do it on the production line?
As long as I can test-fit things to check clearances and set shims I don't mind doing it.
When you have to start pressing bearings into place, or fitting crush-washers and spacers - just to test-fit something - that's when I pay somebody else to do it.
I've noticed a recent trend for grinding bearings so they can be a slip-fit on things so they can be assembled for shimming.
Even that gives me the heeby-jeebies cos a) there's no guarantee that your proper bearing is going to be identical to your test bearing and b) even if it is, there's no guarantee that it'll seat in exactly the same position and create exactly the same clearances.
Stuff like this is, IMO, just lousy design.
In the case of the planetary gears, for example, could they not have drilled holes in the diff' carrier so threaded adjusters could be fitted?
Take a look at the early Dana 60 axle this is based on - they had shims in the nose and adjustable 'carriers' for the diff itself - so they used the old fashioned method of bluing teeth to get a good mesh
Think I wont venture anywhere near the diff. It has a clunking noise and It does leak oil from the diff. Should I just change the oil seal or leave it?
Bryan= if you change the seal you 'should' replace the collapseable sleeve at the same time, because you can over or under tighten the nut - tough call
@@BritannicaRestorations Can I just mark the starting location and then wind off the nut, put the new seal on and wind it back to the same point?
You could - but you have to be careful
@@BritannicaRestorations - Can you tell me if the replacement part you show in the video is the same size as the old one so that the counting the turns method 'could' be used?
I had trouble with that part and used the original flange - I am not sure of the dimensions of the new one
It's bloody murder trying to find a good hair and makeup department during lockdown.
Tell me about it!
tell you what i reckon you would better off fitting a detroit locking diff than repairing the diff , time you put the hours in and the gain in traction, this is one occassion adding a locking diff would be a cheap option ;0)
If you heard I am against a very tight budget on this job
You and Mr. Jameson need a day off together.
Happy Easter Dave
Yes having a day off today BUT!
There is no Jameson's in the shop!
Must have drunk them dry!
ahhh yes - the old budget - oh why oh why does there have to be a budget
Yeap - like working with one hand tied behind your back
What's point o' watching Mike struggling wi' a bloody awkward diff. It would have extended my knowledge of old Yorkshire blasphemy and been good for a laugh whilst I sit here wi' mi' mug of tea mutterings 'I remember when' and ' back in the day'.
Should have seen me today struggling with a propshaft that was 'repaired' in Malawi - they had hammered it so hard the yokes were 3mm out of true - could not get the circlips in - well - they only fitted one properly
Looking forward to the salisbury videos, two main limitations from my point of view....the yt p22 yukon bearing separator and the torque wrench on the pre-load, both pricey bits of kit especially on import. Left it well alone on my rear axle, has been driving fine, will change it one day.
th-cam.com/video/ysBqO3lRdOk/w-d-xo.html
Right on
I think it’s safe to say that “us” amateur mechanics would wave the white flag on a job like that!
That is why I didn't do a video for you under the truck - far too complicated - I will do one on the bench to explain later this year
Man you need to get a haircut. It’s not the 80’s anymore ya know. Either that or tie it up to make sure it’s not going to get caught up in rotating parts.
I think it suits him, Doc Brown , back to the future mad scientist style.
There are not many people in the uk who would take that job on.