Replace Rear Drum Brakes and Axle Seals
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 มิ.ย. 2020
- Replace Ford Rear Drum Brakes and Axle Seals F100
Episode 461 Autorestomod
We cover how to replace Ford rear drum brakes and also how to install new axle seals.
www.autorestomod.com
www.gasolinemediausa.com
/ gasolinemedia
jford@autorestomod.com
Parts:
www.nationalpartsdepot.com
Screw Assy, Brake Adjuster: F-2041-3
Screw Assy, Brake Adjuster: F-2041-9
Hose Assy, Rear Brake: F-2282-4
2 Drum, Brake, Rear, Replacement, 11 1/32 Inch: F-1126-2
(2) Spring, Parking Brake Link: 2A601-3
(2) Spring, Parking Brake Link, Not Included In 2A094: 2A601-2
Shoe Set, Drum Brake, 11 1/32 Inch: T-2001-1
Combi-Kit, Brake Shoe, Includes Shoe Springs And Hold: F-2A095-2
Repair Kit, Wheel Cylinder, 7/8 Inch: 2128-5 - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
![[ไฮไลต์] ฟุตบอลหญิง เยอรมนี vs ออสเตรเลีย รอบแบ่งกลุ่ม | โอลิมปิก 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/i_8UO61YqO8/mqdefault.jpg)
Here's an easy way to adjust drum brakes. Have the wheels on, tires off ground of course. Turn slack adjuster until wheel/tire is tight and you can't rotate it. OK, you got all the slack out. Then take a small long skinny screwdriver and push the locking mechanism off the star wheel and back the slack adjuster off until the wheel spins free with a slight amount of drag. Adjust up or down a click or two to fine adjust it and you're DONE. Did this today and had each wheel done in 5 minutes and the brakes feel great. My dad taught me that, who's done thousands of brake jobs.
Are yall reading my mind? Yall keep putting out all these awesome f100 videos for things mine needs. Thank you!
I have been reading your mind. Not that bad really. 👍
I always love it when I wake up and see an F100 video! Good job Jeff & Cam & crew
Awesome. Just preparing to help a friend rehab all four on a car his father passed down to him. Fun to watch, thanks!
Never take a short cut, it will bite you. You saw my 68 mustang in Ocala ford show ,last one. When my wife pulled the brakes the shoes were on reverse. We spent a amount time correcting other people fine work. Best one was the automatic shifter indicator can be put on in either direction, the wrong way it will not point at the right gear. Love your show.
Just did this on my 63 meteor. Looks exactly the same. Enjoy the channel!
This is going to help out a lot, thank you for taking the time to explain everything!
@ 12:54 put the self adjuster cable guide thru the hole in the backing plate first.. it must go in FLUSH and on the shoulder to keep an accurate self adjuster cable length.. then fish the end of the spring thru the hole.. it goes in really easy.. put the loop of the self adjuster cable over the anchor pin.. but have the end of the cable up over the top of the shoe at about 2 o clock position on the left wheel.. now you can use the brake spring tool to stretch the rear spring over the anchor.. then work the self adjuster cable over the cable guide.. leaving the end just dangling inside the shoe..
put the forward spring on like you did.. instead of assembling the adjuster screw, lever and lower spring.. before.. put the lower spring on.. put the self adjuster lever in place... hook the spring to the lever pushing the bottom of the shoes together.. now the spring and lever are hooked up.. push up on the lever and hook the cable in.. with the adjuster screw fully screwed together. slip usually the rear end of the adjuster screw in behind the web of the shoe.. allowing you to put the front of the adjuster screw in place on the forward shoe web... pull the shoes apart slightly while positioning the rear of the adjuster screw over the web..
please reach up at this point and flex the adjuster cable above the lever to lift the lever and release.. that should lift the lever and when you release it should turn the star wheel slightly.. verifying the self adjuster works.. some self adjuster cables have been found slightly too short or slightly too long.. putting the lever in the wrong spot to turn the adjuster wheel when rotating back to normal position. i just thought i would share the way i learned how to do it over 40 years ago..
if the self adjuster cable guide IS NOT centered in the hole in the shoe.. when the truck backs up and pulls the rear shoe away from the anchor.. pulling on the cable .. lifting the lever to turn the screw if needed.. the cable will be TOO LONG and the self adjuster won't work..
with freshly machined or new drums.. slide the drum on the axle. but not fully onto the axle hub.. move the drum left and right.. not turn it.. shift it left and right.. how much shoe to drum clearance do you have.. pull the drum off and turn the adjuster wheel to spread the bottom of the shoes. do this until you can get the drum on without a lot of play..
Thanks guys I’m learning a lot !
I've got a 73 Gran Torino that I'm going to switch from 10 to 11 in Ranchero rear brakes good video.
These are the kinda can-do fellas I like to watch. Very good information and I like that you don't edit out things that are real. Kudos
Thanks!
Earlier I was watching the episode on the legendary magnum wheels, those would look really sweet on the truck !! Your welcome for helping you spend your $$ lol!
Right on!
Thanks, was just about to do mine👍
good show thanks fixing to the brakes my 1977 f-150
Exactly the video I needed for my f100, thank you!
Glad it helped!
Thanks fellas - 67 F100 352. Your vids help a ton
Our pleasure!
awesome videos you guys ! your channel is totally underrated !!
Thanks so much!
Drum brakes I dislike only second to wiring. Great job guys!
Drum brakes are so much fun.
You guys are awsome! Thank you.
Our pleasure!
Exactly what i needed to see . My 9 inch was missing the inner seal on both sides .. smh
Thank you guys I’m working on my 73 Ford F 100 I’m doing the upgrade brake system right now it’s hard to find a conversion kit for the rear to make disc brakes everything is out of stock keep up the good work love you guys videos
Thank you for the kind words. It is really hard right now to get any of the parts you need for these vehicles. When we go to get the engine in the truck rebuild where it's 6 to 8 weeks mostly waiting on parts!
Most informative video I've found on this
Glad it was helpful!
You did NOT show putting back the axle?????
That's a neat idea to install the axle seal last, that way all the brake parts are in the way.
If it went in, how are they "in the way"? All a matter of choice in timing Bob.
Excellent !!
Many thanks!
Good morning from Deep East Texas 🙋🙋🙋
Good morning from west South Carolina! 🖐
@@AutoRestoMod I enjoyed the video as I had my morning coffee. Interestingly enough I happen to be restoring a 1966 Fairlane..... I'm rebuilding the 4 drum brakes today. More than likely I'll be referring to the video a few times before the day is done. 100K is around the corner, it's long overdue for your channel.
Good video! What seals did you guys use inside the axle tube?
Muy bien video gracias
Con mucho gusto
I bet you're enjoying the hell out of that lift👍
Great job guys, this will be helpful on my 81 f100 Custom. By the way do u have any videos on kingpin removal and installation? Thanks again for sharing your knowledge with us.
We will be doing that with the I-beams we pulled off of the '72. Stay tuned.
When an axle seal is leaking the issue is not the seal. A new seal will temporarily stop the leak but the real issue is that the wheel bearing is worn and with the vehicle on the ground a hard seal won't make up for the movement up of the axle. A new one will be good for a while but...
I have seen too many ford rears loose axles because of worn wheel bearings. Ford used ball bearings back there which are great for sloppy axle alignment at the factory but not great for axle retention as the bearings wear. A friend had an axle depart on his 69 F100 while pulling a trailer of scrap metal as well many years ago.
Oh and for setting the drum brakes.... Back when I was a tech we had a big plastic caliper thing that you put in the drum and then used the opposite side to set the diameter of the shoes before putting the drum on. Simple tool but worked great. I however do not think fondly of drum brakes especially the ones with the cable for the adjuster.
I think
Video on changing the bearing would be cool
It is on the way.
How do I know what kind of seal I need .looks like my is attached to the bearing .?
The setup on my 69 f250 is quite different than this. Wish I would have found out about the "oil bath" before I dumped gear oil all over my crotch haha
Have you done this for the front discs? I'm replacing mine atm and need info about a pad between the spindle and the backing plate. Very helpful vid btw - these are some of the tools we need to show in those tools vids - make many small ones!
Yup! Just a few weeks ago. th-cam.com/video/hlztiLQ2weQ/w-d-xo.html
As to the gasket, I usually don't bother with it. And I don't find a lusting for one on the internet. I think you'd be OK without it.
Drum.Breaks.Are.Fun
Not according to Cam. Lol
Pretty good but when Cam reinstalled the emergency bar to the larger shoe it had a lot of grease on it. Plus his hands were very greasy leaving contaminants on the shoes.
I typically try to use gloves. Cam doesn't typically use gloves.
Cam was spooning the adjuster the wrong way...lol
Thanks a bunch, this will help me on our '66 F100 project. As a health and safety professional though, I have to say I'd like to see you wearing safety glasses and gloves. (Sorry, occupational hazard.)
Cam regularly eschews my provincial ideas about safety...
Is there any chance I can get the tool number Cam used to remove and install the drum brakes? From looking at them, I know they are not Harbor Freight.
You can get a kit now that has all the stuff we used at Harbor Freight. I can't vouch for it's usefulness. Mine are 30 years old.
What year F100s have the seal as in this video? ( as apposed to the type where you must press off the bearing?)
Any truck with an 8 or 9 inch axle. The Dana is a different bear.
Question? On your video on the top left you use the short spring and the first top left hole. On your Dad's Ford video, he uses the second top left hole and the longer spring? Is it Ok to use the second hole and the longer spring?
We work off of the shop manuals.
Folks, don’t forget to wear safety glasses when installing those brake shoe springs.
I try... really I do, but he won't do it. Young, ten foot tall and made of steel...you know the drill John.
When I put my Shoes on they just want to fall off and i cant get anything else on because they both want to fall. and any kind of Bump or anything makes them Bump out and now wanna go back on.
They should rest on the pads of the backing plate.
My parking brake is..... something???
My tires will turn with brake on with like 50 inch pounds. What is going on?
Had to close my eyes when you used a body hammer to tap the axle seal in.
Me too.
Why don't you clean ALL the old grease and dirt off ALL the old grimy parts prior to reinstalling them? It looks like some of it was cleaned but there was still plenty of grease to get rid of.
My Alex Seal is totally different from this one. It's behind the bearing. It has to be removed just to get to it.
If you're running an F-250 the axles are completely different because they used a Dana rear end on those trucks
@@AutoRestoMod Thanks for the reply. On further inspection I found that someone had removed the seal and used gobs of RTV to seal it up. Apparently to allow the gear oil to lube the bearing. I’ve had the truck for twenty years now the axel never leaked until recently. I found the correct seal and will just pack the bearing with grease.
is there anyone who sells new backing plates?
Currie Enterprises sells a whole bake kit.
If the wheel seal was not damaged then where was it leaking oil from?
We have a wheel cylinder leak.
Should have went ahead and replaced wheel cylinder
who needs back breasks just throw a rock off the back lol //ill bet the fj60 landcruirer looks like this
YEAH!
Why wouldn't you do the wheel cylinder why it's apart?
If it ain't broke, don't fix it. We checked the cylinders and they were fine.
still a great video...and I'm with you....I don't likie the spacer......id rather spend the time finding 4 good steels ...sanding them down and repainting them....and polishing dog dishes....which is what I would do to the......FULLSIZED FORD THAT SHALL NOT BE NAMED!
(as you can see if I win the lotto....there will be no buying of lambo or Ferrari!!...you will find me at Daniel Schmidt looking for a black and yellow Citation or greenwood IN buying the red 60 Ranger Conv.)
STARLINER!!!!! For now we're putting '90s Chrome from the F150 on there.
@@AutoRestoMod what 90s chrome......wasnt much then....even then I was getting away from the new stuff.......the only good truck was a lightning!
but anyways I hope you get those spacers off there and get wheel vintiques to get you some good steelies
Keep an eye on that axle seal, you mite need a axle bearing. You didn’t show how to check the bearing. Great video. You should be wearing gloves!
We did check them and they were OK. It might be a good idea to do a video on that.
🖐️
👌👍
Cant believe he did not replace or rebuild those rear wheel clyinders
And why? If they are not giving trouble, there isn't any need to add even more work to the job. Does that mean that you replace the wheel cylinders each time you do a brake job?
lady slipper? or hill bar?
Lady slipper, lady foot, heel bar...I have seen them called all three. But Lady slipper and Lady foot come up the most on Amazon; with Lady Foot being the most used.
@@AutoRestoMod heel bar, duh. made my livin turning wrenches for 22 years now always called em hill bar, heel makes sense know. keep em coming guys
And the axle just slides out real easy like that right?…………….. 🙄
Can't imagine reassembling filthy, greasy brake parts like you did. Saved two minutes by not cleaning them. Then spent additional five minutes cleaning yourself. Claimed "all new parts" in brake system, which was clearly not the case. A new wheel cylinder is a no brainer, particularly on a non-exotic (inexpensive) like an old Ford. At the very least, buy a rebuild kit. Classic case of "penny wise". Would've liked seeing promised axle bearing inspection.
Actually we had ordered a new parts kit but it failed to make shipment, sometimes these things happen. The parts were cleaned with brake clean and were not "filthy, greasy". Note the backing plate is cleaned off as well with brake clean. Those springs and parts are painted with cheap paint, and the paint easily comes off (especially when loved on by brake cleaner) so the springs were a bit rusty as was the other stuff, but it all was sound...and clean. And why replace a wheel cylinder that is not leaking and is working properly? Dad always said, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it," I live by that same notion. Had the cylinder been leaking, we would have reworked though, not replaced it.
We don’t need every second of the job.
It's funny, we don't show every second of the job. We cut it down to the vitals. Remember there are other people that may not have as much experience as you and need to see it all, so "we" show it. If our detailed how to bothers you please watch something else. There are heaps of other channels.
Drum brakes are a pain in the ass. Which is why I got rid of the drums.
They can be until you get used to them.
You said you were gonna install the axle shaft then the next thing you did was install the brake drum.. wow so uninformative.. totally missed a step. Very misleading..
Sorry that telling you was not enough. I assume that taking the shaft and sticking it in the hole is something most men have at least a passing understanding of...