It's a great bike if she's looking for a performance/race hardtail. If she wants more of a fun hardtail (that's still plenty fast) we'd recommend looking at the Komodo line. I (Macky) have one and (except for racing) prefer it to the Dakota!
@@The08450 I’m glad you got it figured out. There are lots of things to learn in racing and it takes time to figure it all out. I took Sports Physiology in college just to help my training and have some idea what I was doing; especially since “training” for me was just enjoying riding a lot and I had to make sure I hit the important points along the way and didn’t just only ride for enjoyment (making sure I did a lot of low intensity long rides, and making sure I did enough intervals, etc.). Just figuring out how to keep yourself fueled and watered is an art form in itself. And learning tactics ends up being important too: knowing when you can go off the front to try to win or when to hold back and try to win in a sprint instead (which was one of my failings; I went OTF a lot when I probably could have beat my competitors in a straight up sprint instead. But that’s what takes time to figure out when everyone has different strengths). Hope it’s going well.
I prefer clipless just because I don’t slip off the pedals and end up smacking the shins. Although I rode for a year with old school toe clips and road cleats that meant I could not get out of the pedals without reaching down to swipe the straps. It really helped my bike handling to ride XC locked in. I was glad when Shimano came out with SPDs though.
Thank You for taking the time to share your thoughts! As a shop owner, often times people think that you are just trying to sell them something more... if you can get them to ride with a group, then they can see/feel what you are talking about. But as you know, that doesn't always happen. I love the fact that you are both so personable and simply give 'facts' and let others make up their own minds....you're both just naturals. :) One of the things that I would love to see is van build for folks wanting to race, now I've watched yours a couple of times. Wonder if you have any other friends/family that might want to share their builds? Thanks Again for all of your efforts!!
Heart rate can be extremely useful for racing and it can be used to aid your tactics in a race. I had a situation occur in a race where I was leading the pro/expert group and we came up behind some beginners, and usually the beginners do one of two things: they pull over to let the experts pass, or they pedal their hearts out and try to keep up with the experts. In this case, these two beginners were leading and pedaling as hard as they could because they didn’t want to slow the experts down, but they were actually moving at a pace that was slightly too fast for the upcoming hill climb. So I expended some energy to sprint in front of them and then imperceptibly slowed the pace just slightly by using my HR monitor to monitor my HR and drop it by just two beats per minute which allowed me to recover just slightly. By getting in front of the FNGs and controlling the pace, it allowed me to recover just enough to be able to take off on the climb. The other riders I don’t think recovered as much because the pace change was so slight; as far as they knew, we were going at the same speed and they were expending the same amount of energy (and part of my ability to drop my HR slightly was just riding more efficiently and smoothly too). So it’s not just a training aid; a heart rate monitor can be used to aid tactics in races as well. It’s one of the best tools I ever used in aiding my training and racing.
The best thing I ever used for xc and marathon racing was the SPARE CYCLING seat pack. Unlike most seat packs it can be used with a dropper and not cause any obstructions. I fit literally everything in it from a tube, to tire levers, mech hanger, glasses wipe, Allen set, rubber cement, and co2. Have had no complaints and plus they look awesome. Highly recommend as they are super high quality for a great price.
Tylerhasaphone agreed however I’ve only rode mtb twice and glad I wasn’t clipped in I crashed so much it was fun since I could just jump off although I wished I could have been clipped in but not getting injured was a good trade off 😂🕺🏻
Hey guys! Been following for you for a while. Could it be possible to have an updated version of this video. I’m sure you guys have learned a lot since then and would truly enjoy an up to date version of the video. Thank you again.
Why “rotational weight” matters, a lay person’s explanation (since you asked): it takes energy to 1. get things up hill, 2. accelerate in line (aka translate), and 3. accelerate in a circle (aka rotate). Everything on your bike (and you) has to do #1 and #2. Only the wheels, pedals, etc. need to do #3. So you have to fight frame weight in 2 ways, but wheel weight in 3. The larger the radius of the circle, the more #3 matters. That’s why people worry about “rotational weight” of rims and tires but the effect of a hub on “rotational weight” is probably negligible.
Good explanation of why it is important, but the “what” rotational weight is... It’s the weight of the wheel relative to the center of the circle (I.e. hub). Given a certain weight, the further the weight is from the center, the more energy required to get it moving. Think of a 5 pound weight on the end of a stick; the shorter the stick, the easier it is to hold out in front of you, the longer the stick, the more difficult. (“Moment” in engineering terms). If you start swinging the weight and stick in an arc, the shorter stick (the moment arm) is easier (less energy) is to get moving and swing. HOWEVER, once moving, the longer stick now has more momentum given its longer moment arm. So, that’s why the smaller diameter wheels are easier to get moving (shorter radius = shorter moment arm) but the larger diameter wheels (longer radius) roll easier (higher momentum) once up to speed. Each person needs to find that right size moment arm (wheel size) for their intended purpose and size - less energy to get up to speed, or more momentum when up to speed. If momentum were what it was all about, we’d all have huge wheels and Thor would be swinging around a hammer with a 3 foot handle. We just need to determine what is best for us as an individual. Like everything in life, with a mountain bike it’s all about finding balance and what is the best fit for a specific individual and their intended purposes and use.
I use my road kit for comfort on XC. My road shoes are Giro MTB XC clip shoes and work great for road bike rides and fabulous for MTB, especially MTB as you have the advantage of being able to push-pull to get over tight hard sections. While it is kind of possible to push-pull with flats you waste too mush effort and concentration trying to grip the pedals with your feet.
As regards the Lycra shorts with chamois, it’s really worth it to look like a bike weenie to have the chamois for long rides. With clothes with seams, you’re going to end up with abrasions and it won’t feel good. I had a race that was really long (2 day stage race across the center of Alaska that was 189 miles long) and even with chamois shorts, I had blood spots in my shorts. With regular clothes on, it would have been far worse. So don’t worry about how you look and wear what works; it’s worth it.
Great video guys. Alongside the tyre upgrade I would definitely add making them tubeless. The vast majority of wheels can now be changed as manufacturers produce excellent kits for very little money.
Great video! It took me 2 months to get used to clips. I almost went back to flats. They make me feel more connected with the bike. I get them haters too.
SpikeBoarding is great cross-training for cycling. Very casual way of xc Nordic skiing. VeloSpiking is the multi-sport it gives birth to. Easy to find both.
I wasted over one year doing xc on flat pedals just because I was scared. I then went clipless and would never go back. Multidirectional release cleats also help for beginners.
Clipless pedals are great when you want to get the last percent or two out of your legs, but it's well worth spending time on flat pedals to learn decent technique. If you can get fast on a hardtail with flat pedals, you can absolutely fly clipped in on a full suspension bike. Swapping between the two makes you faster on both. Testing has found that a skilled rider can put down similar power on flat or clipless pedals, but when you're riding tired it's easier and often safer to let the pedals hold you on the bike. Saying that I mostly ride flat pedals and that's on 5+ hour spins with big climbs (I'll climb over a mile on most spins if the conditions are good) because I'd rather the ability to bail fast than out and out efficiency since most of my big spins are solo, on natural trails which are neither maintained or designed with any requirement for them to remain suitable for bikes, and which can change character completely from day to day depending on the weather.
When I was living in Madrid, I was at the top of a diabolical hill that I had to climb to get back to my apartment, and my legs were too dead to unclip. It's really, really fun to explain to the Spanish police why you've just fallen over in front of their car in front of the royal palace. So yeah, I'm back on flats for now. The clips can stay with my road bike until I'm more used to them. :-)
Thank you for the tips. Macky, I'm glad you reinforced the message about xc specific shoes for power transmission (I ride "trekking" "touring" Shimano spd shoes) and xc tyres for rolling resistance (I'm lately enjoying Enduro type of tyres for greater confidence while trail riding but I think I'm sacrificing too much in weight and rolling).
Such a sick set up you guys have.. .I Made it down 5miles of downhill in just under 8minutes on my hardtail crosscountry race bike at ski apache new mexico this past weekend..results on Strava . Just to prove to my buddies and everyone just how capable hardtails are now days 🤘🤘
Thank you, Syd, for that clip rant!!!! I'd been reluctant to clip in for my first 4 years of riding. I recently upgraded to clip shoes and pedals and it has increased my confidence greatly. I did have a nasty injury the first time I failed to come out of them (fractured sternum), but after that, I think it's helped me commit more to my lines and all that stuff. Now it feels kinda weird to get back on the commuter bike (flats, of course, because I'm not wearing shoes with clips all day at work!) after the weekend. I wish I could also clip into that one.
I don't have a bike computer but what I do have is a Garmin watch. With a cheap mount on my bike I have all the info on the watch on the handlebars. I use a heart rate monitor on my chest that connects to the watch. Very convenient solution.
I find short fingered gloves are much easier to get at gels, gummies, and bars while moving efficiently. Had some issues in a gravel race not being able to feel opening of packaging with full gloves.
Y'all ought to see the looks I get from wearing fingerless weightlifting gloves for wrist support but I don't care, they work, hot but I like the thick pads for comfort.
Me too. When I started, there weren’t any clipless pedals and I rode with toe clips, double leather straps, and road cleats and shoes so I was completely locked in unless I could reach down to swipe the leather straps open. It made me a really good bike handler, that’s for sure! I was glad when Shimano came out with the M737 though.
Great video. I wish I could ride clips. Size 14 extra extra wide foot = no clips though. It’s basically impossible to find shoes that fit. 5ten freeriders aren’t really wide enough, but I make them work.
When you ride with a front derailleur, you just get used to knowing what gears to use and when to change. I liked being able to go from the big ring to the middle with terrain changes without having to cycle through a bunch of gears. It can be advantageous in some ways.
Yup, I (Macky) have ridden all sorts of pedals at different times in my career. I prefer the SPD style though because I like the clearer snap-in/snap-out feeling.
Off topic, but what are the typical fees, winnings, prizes for XC, enduro, and other disciplines at different levels like pro and or elite? Videos are awesome, I really like the workout and diet videos. Thank you
There are potentially several reasons for this. One thing might be related to Q factor; the distance between the pedals that creates an A frame for the legs. Short legs will be affected more by Q factor since it creates sharper angles, and this can affect the knee during the pedal cycle. If the cranks and pedals are too wide, the legs have a hard time pedaling efficiently up and down since they’re splayed out too far. Another thing to look at is crank length. Shorter cranks are being found to be better for the knees since it makes for less angle in the knee at the top of the stroke. Get a really good quality bike fit done to look over your set up and pedaling style; it could discover why your ACL is being affected like that. Ideally, cycling should be good for developing strength for knee problems and rehabbing after ACL surgery; so if it’s aggravating the injury, then there should be a way to fix it. P.S., make sure your clipless pedals have enough float to adjust to changes in your pedal stroke too. They should be able to twist some before release. Different pedals vary in the amount of float included. SPDs generally have plenty of float angle. Hope that helps.
Great video! Mezcal is my favorite rear tire but I’ve been looking for something meatier for the front. What is the front tire on Syds bike? Looks like a Martello and barzo combined! I’m assuming it’s a proto tire, will it make it to production?
Tire question...what psi is best for tubeless tires? Also if you have too much pressure does it diminish the ability of the cornering knobs when your cornering? Great video...again! Thank you.
In terms of tire pressure for tubeless, it depends on a number of factors like rider weight, riding style, tire width, tire casing, rim width, and whether or not you use tire inserts. To give you an idea, I (Macky) run 24psi in the front and 29 in the back on 2.35 tires and weigh about 170lbs. Syd runs 19 and 26 and weighs about 140. We both ride aggressively so have to run slightly higher pressures. You should experiment and see what works for you but remember that you can usually run a couple psi lower in the front and if you like to hit jumps or drops you should make sure to test your pressure on those features as well because they put more load on the tires than normal riding does. And yes, too much pressure gives you worse traction all around (accelerating, cornering and braking).
XC = cross-country is a mass start race (usually) where you're timed on the climbs and the descents and the first person across the finish line wins. DH = downhill is an individual start race that is downhill only with one run and the fastest time wins. You usually take a chairlift or shuttle to the top. Enduro is kinda a mix of the two. Multiple individual start downhill stages that are timed, the times are added together and the fastest (shortest) overall time wins. You generally have to pedal to the start of each stage, but the climbs are not timed, only the descents.
Not sure on the pricing in the US but Endura include decent ones with there riding shorts that's are great! In the UK they cost around £65 and are worth every penny
I rode clipped in forever on the road and want to on my MTB, but I feel significant left side knee and groin pain when I’ve tried. Any ideas or suggestions?
Most likely your issue is set up. Make sure that your saddle height is the same on both bikes (measure from the bottom bracket to the middle of the saddle). And also check to make sure your cleats are in the same position. This can be a bit difficult with road vs MTB cleats, but try to get them as close as possible. Hopefully that will help!
There are potentially several reasons for this. One thing might be related to Q factor; the distance between the pedals that creates an A frame for the legs. Short legs will be affected more by Q factor since it creates sharper angles, and this can affect the knee during the pedal cycle. If the cranks and pedals are too wide, the legs have a hard time pedaling efficiently up and down since they’re splayed out too far. Also, make sure the distance from the center to the pedal is the same on both sides. Another thing to look at is crank length. Shorter cranks are being found to be better for the knees since it makes for less angle in the knee at the top of the stroke. Get a really good quality bike fit done to look over your set up and pedaling style. Ideally, cycling should be good for developing strength and should not cause such problems, so if it’s causing problems, then there should be a way to fix it. P.S., make sure your clipless pedals have enough float to adjust to changes in your pedal stroke too. They should be able to twist some before release. Different pedals vary in the amount of float included. SPDs generally have plenty of float angle. Hope that helps.
I noticed in the BCBR vids your running the Pearl X project elite shoes and here you have the Pros. Is there that much difference between the two to justify?
I haven't used clips in forever, but I've never felt 100% comfortable with them. I think I'm just traumatized from horrific toe clip experiences in the early 90s. I'll never understand why anyone makes a stink either way, they both work and both have pros and cons, whats the big deal?
As a roadie, I can barely contemplate not riding clipless pedals... To the point that, I do need to ride flats a bit more to get used to them. As always, great video guys.
It's cool that youngens like your self are still running toe clips. You must also be doing some track racing. I remember once being able to bend over and tighten the strap with no problem. I've since lost a lot of my flexibility. I ride flats on my MTB and CLIPLESS on my road/gravel 😜
9:29 I just wear Five Ten freerider shoes on Catalyst pedals, good power transfer, more stability. Yes I ride with the same pedals, same shoes, of course in winter and rainy days I switch to waterproof shoes, but they are still Five ten Freerider. there is no need for stiffer sole if you have pedals that support the arch and you use mid foot position. the ball of foot position never left right to me, still does not, I sink at drops, less stable, but even with mid foot position it won't feel right unless you got pedals that support the arch, as the arch won't hug the pedal. this means I can have lighter shoe, that is comfortable to walk in. I can't ride with clips, because I would not always be able to unclip, due to issues I have with hips,feet, and the rest of it really, my hips get misaligned, so do my feet, also elbows,shoulder too, this has caused several crashes under technical climbs, but I was able to bail and run away, or stand up, but this would not be possible with clips no matter how good you get at it. I haven't even tried it, cus I know it won't work for me. also winter riding in clipless pedals would not be so fun, snow, ice stuck, struggle to clip in, so lubing it well to avoid ice is important, but it will pack up with snow. so best option is flat pedals with long pins, this has worked very well for me, I tried short pins but it's not long enough in the winter, for summer it could work, but I still prefer long pins. I haven't done any races in any discipline. but I always go full enduro on very ride.
But how to get in to all those sort of races?! I am living in Europe (flat place) and.. I don't know but here... I am riding for 3 months and there are no races for me!? I think maybe I have talent. How to get new MTB buddies? Jeez.. I wish there where more woman doing MTB here.
Those pedals have been called clipless since Shimano first developed the SPD pedal. They were named clipless because they replaced pedals with toe clips (The usually stainless steel or plastic hoops attached to pedals with a strap that goes over your foot to hold it on to the pedals). Clip in is acceptable terminology for clipless pedals, but clipless is the more correct and more widely recognised term for this type of pedal.
@@sydandmacky As luck would have it the word cage is already taken in pedal terminology too. A caged pedal is one where the outer edge of the pedal is made from a single strip of metal with teeth in each side to provide grip. They're still in use on trials bikes (Look for images of the Trialtech Sport Lite pedal for an example of the caged pedal style), but have fallen almost completely out of favour with the rest of the cycling world. The reason is that since the cage is almost always aluminium, once you put a good few miles on them your shoes polish the teeth smooth, making the pedals much less grippy, especially in wet conditions, while they still do significantly more damage than a pinned pedal if you get one in the shin.
For riders switching to clips. I use a brand called crankbrothers which arent adjustable on the clip but they're cleats are made to be used differently. They make a 10 degree release which feels like coming off of flats and they make a 15/20 degree release. I would give them a shot.
Hardtails are where it's at. I'm 49 and crush millennials lugging their full squishies over the trails. I'm buying this one: www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/29er-mountain-bikes/fantom-29-cf-eagle-carbon-29er-mountain-bikes.htm
Almost everything you are talking about is old school. Packs are stupid, let the bike do the work. Who has never heard of a jersey without pockets? That's called a t-shirt. Spandex with chamois all the way. Bibs are way more comfortable. Baggy shorts get caught on everything. Why would anybody NOT use clips? That's nuts. Time ATAC greatest pedal ever. Go for the carbon hard tail over the light tires. Carbon is the smoothest ride. Aluminum is a joke. Get the best puncture proof tires over light weight. Great video.
If you're curious about any of the gear we mentioned, check the description for links!
How do you guys like the Dakotas? I'm looking into one for my wife and it seems like a solid choice. I think I would also put a 120mm fork on it.
It's a great bike if she's looking for a performance/race hardtail. If she wants more of a fun hardtail (that's still plenty fast) we'd recommend looking at the Komodo line. I (Macky) have one and (except for racing) prefer it to the Dakota!
I didn't know that you weren't supposed to wear underwear with the padded shorts. I tried without today! WORLDS BETTER!!!! THANKS GUYS!!!!!!!!!!!!
You were wearing shorts with underwear?! Ow! 😁
@@keirfarnum6811 lesson learned lol
@ETfonehome42 way more comfy without!!!!!
@@The08450
I’m glad you got it figured out. There are lots of things to learn in racing and it takes time to figure it all out. I took Sports Physiology in college just to help my training and have some idea what I was doing; especially since “training” for me was just enjoying riding a lot and I had to make sure I hit the important points along the way and didn’t just only ride for enjoyment (making sure I did a lot of low intensity long rides, and making sure I did enough intervals, etc.). Just figuring out how to keep yourself fueled and watered is an art form in itself. And learning tactics ends up being important too: knowing when you can go off the front to try to win or when to hold back and try to win in a sprint instead (which was one of my failings; I went OTF a lot when I probably could have beat my competitors in a straight up sprint instead. But that’s what takes time to figure out when everyone has different strengths). Hope it’s going well.
Definitely a learning curve with clips, but the power and control is worth the blood spilled.
I feel similarly. I love the connected control. Find the brand that works for you and your style.
I prefer clipless just because I don’t slip off the pedals and end up smacking the shins. Although I rode for a year with old school toe clips and road cleats that meant I could not get out of the pedals without reaching down to swipe the straps. It really helped my bike handling to ride XC locked in. I was glad when Shimano came out with SPDs though.
Thank You for taking the time to share your thoughts! As a shop owner, often times people think that you are just trying to sell them something more... if you can get them to ride with a group, then they can see/feel what you are talking about. But as you know, that doesn't always happen. I love the fact that you are both so personable and simply give 'facts' and let others make up their own minds....you're both just naturals. :) One of the things that I would love to see is van build for folks wanting to race, now I've watched yours a couple of times. Wonder if you have any other friends/family that might want to share their builds? Thanks Again for all of your efforts!!
Heart rate can be extremely useful for racing and it can be used to aid your tactics in a race. I had a situation occur in a race where I was leading the pro/expert group and we came up behind some beginners, and usually the beginners do one of two things: they pull over to let the experts pass, or they pedal their hearts out and try to keep up with the experts. In this case, these two beginners were leading and pedaling as hard as they could because they didn’t want to slow the experts down, but they were actually moving at a pace that was slightly too fast for the upcoming hill climb. So I expended some energy to sprint in front of them and then imperceptibly slowed the pace just slightly by using my HR monitor to monitor my HR and drop it by just two beats per minute which allowed me to recover just slightly.
By getting in front of the FNGs and controlling the pace, it allowed me to recover just enough to be able to take off on the climb. The other riders I don’t think recovered as much because the pace change was so slight; as far as they knew, we were going at the same speed and they were expending the same amount of energy (and part of my ability to drop my HR slightly was just riding more efficiently and smoothly too). So it’s not just a training aid; a heart rate monitor can be used to aid tactics in races as well. It’s one of the best tools I ever used in aiding my training and racing.
The best thing I ever used for xc and marathon racing was the SPARE CYCLING seat pack. Unlike most seat packs it can be used with a dropper and not cause any obstructions. I fit literally everything in it from a tube, to tire levers, mech hanger, glasses wipe, Allen set, rubber cement, and co2. Have had no complaints and plus they look awesome. Highly recommend as they are super high quality for a great price.
Syds clipped in rant is gold. So true. It’s as natural as anything when you’re used to it! Great video as usual guys!!
Tylerhasaphone agreed however I’ve only rode mtb twice and glad I wasn’t clipped in I crashed so much it was fun since I could just jump off although I wished I could have been clipped in but not getting injured was a good trade off 😂🕺🏻
Hey guys! Been following for you for a while. Could it be possible to have an updated version of this video. I’m sure you guys have learned a lot since then and would truly enjoy an up to date version of the video. Thank you again.
Why “rotational weight” matters, a lay person’s explanation (since you asked): it takes energy to 1. get things up hill, 2. accelerate in line (aka translate), and 3. accelerate in a circle (aka rotate). Everything on your bike (and you) has to do #1 and #2. Only the wheels, pedals, etc. need to do #3. So you have to fight frame weight in 2 ways, but wheel weight in 3. The larger the radius of the circle, the more #3 matters. That’s why people worry about “rotational weight” of rims and tires but the effect of a hub on “rotational weight” is probably negligible.
Well explained, thank you!
Nice explanation, I've felt the difference of lighter wheels but never really understood why it helps so much.
Good explanation of why it is important, but the “what” rotational weight is...
It’s the weight of the wheel relative to the center of the circle (I.e. hub). Given a certain weight, the further the weight is from the center, the more energy required to get it moving. Think of a 5 pound weight on the end of a stick; the shorter the stick, the easier it is to hold out in front of you, the longer the stick, the more difficult. (“Moment” in engineering terms). If you start swinging the weight and stick in an arc, the shorter stick (the moment arm) is easier (less energy) is to get moving and swing. HOWEVER, once moving, the longer stick now has more momentum given its longer moment arm. So, that’s why the smaller diameter wheels are easier to get moving (shorter radius = shorter moment arm) but the larger diameter wheels (longer radius) roll easier (higher momentum) once up to speed.
Each person needs to find that right size moment arm (wheel size) for their intended purpose and size - less energy to get up to speed, or more momentum when up to speed. If momentum were what it was all about, we’d all have huge wheels and Thor would be swinging around a hammer with a 3 foot handle. We just need to determine what is best for us as an individual.
Like everything in life, with a mountain bike it’s all about finding balance and what is the best fit for a specific individual and their intended purposes and use.
I am a real believer in lighter wheels and tires,they definitely allow you to accelerate faster up or down.and you pick up speed faster.
I use my road kit for comfort on XC. My road shoes are Giro MTB XC clip shoes and work great for road bike rides and fabulous for MTB, especially MTB as you have the advantage of being able to push-pull to get over tight hard sections. While it is kind of possible to push-pull with flats you waste too mush effort and concentration trying to grip the pedals with your feet.
Started on flats, went to clips for a few years, back on flats again. Be happy....go ride
As regards the Lycra shorts with chamois, it’s really worth it to look like a bike weenie to have the chamois for long rides. With clothes with seams, you’re going to end up with abrasions and it won’t feel good. I had a race that was really long (2 day stage race across the center of Alaska that was 189 miles long) and even with chamois shorts, I had blood spots in my shorts. With regular clothes on, it would have been far worse. So don’t worry about how you look and wear what works; it’s worth it.
Great video! And perfect timing seeing as how my first XC race is this weekend. Keep up the good work 👌
Good luck!
Great video guys. Alongside the tyre upgrade I would definitely add making them tubeless. The vast majority of wheels can now be changed as manufacturers produce excellent kits for very little money.
I agree, dropper post on a hard-tail. I use mine on smaller jump trails, and pump tracks. Makes a world of difference.
Great video! It took me 2 months to get used to clips. I almost went back to flats. They make me feel more connected with the bike. I get them haters too.
I find clipless safer because the foot can’t slip off and end up with a pedal smacking the shins.
SpikeBoarding is great cross-training for cycling. Very casual way of xc Nordic skiing. VeloSpiking is the multi-sport it gives birth to. Easy to find both.
I wasted over one year doing xc on flat pedals just because I was scared. I then went clipless and would never go back. Multidirectional release cleats also help for beginners.
Clipless pedals are great when you want to get the last percent or two out of your legs, but it's well worth spending time on flat pedals to learn decent technique. If you can get fast on a hardtail with flat pedals, you can absolutely fly clipped in on a full suspension bike. Swapping between the two makes you faster on both. Testing has found that a skilled rider can put down similar power on flat or clipless pedals, but when you're riding tired it's easier and often safer to let the pedals hold you on the bike.
Saying that I mostly ride flat pedals and that's on 5+ hour spins with big climbs (I'll climb over a mile on most spins if the conditions are good) because I'd rather the ability to bail fast than out and out efficiency since most of my big spins are solo, on natural trails which are neither maintained or designed with any requirement for them to remain suitable for bikes, and which can change character completely from day to day depending on the weather.
When I was living in Madrid, I was at the top of a diabolical hill that I had to climb to get back to my apartment, and my legs were too dead to unclip. It's really, really fun to explain to the Spanish police why you've just fallen over in front of their car in front of the royal palace.
So yeah, I'm back on flats for now. The clips can stay with my road bike until I'm more used to them. :-)
That is a hilarious story!!!
Thank you for the tips. Macky, I'm glad you reinforced the message about xc specific shoes for power transmission (I ride "trekking" "touring" Shimano spd shoes) and xc tyres for rolling resistance (I'm lately enjoying Enduro type of tyres for greater confidence while trail riding but I think I'm sacrificing too much in weight and rolling).
7:08 little protection test? Hey, ya put it in the clip!😆 Nice vid guys! Wish I had the time and $ to do xc stuff. Looks very enjoyable.
doing my first race in 2 days this video is very helpful!
Good luck!
Those clips sure do help on the up hill! I set them for super light release, because I am new to the sport.
Such a sick set up you guys have..
.I Made it down 5miles of downhill in just under 8minutes on my hardtail crosscountry race bike at ski apache new mexico this past weekend..results on Strava . Just to prove to my buddies and everyone just how capable hardtails are now days 🤘🤘
I rode my first XC race on a 160mm FS Enduro bike, came in 4th but I quickly realized it was super inefficient at pedaling
Thank you, Syd, for that clip rant!!!! I'd been reluctant to clip in for my first 4 years of riding. I recently upgraded to clip shoes and pedals and it has increased my confidence greatly. I did have a nasty injury the first time I failed to come out of them (fractured sternum), but after that, I think it's helped me commit more to my lines and all that stuff. Now it feels kinda weird to get back on the commuter bike (flats, of course, because I'm not wearing shoes with clips all day at work!) after the weekend. I wish I could also clip into that one.
You should throw normal shoes in your pack for work so you can ride clips on that bike too!
@@sydandmacky tried it, hate running a big pack.
what size Vittoria Tires ?
Great stuff. Doing my first xc race tomorrow morning. Super excited and nervous
Good luck and have fun!!
Thats so true about the cycling computer, every time i suffer i just look at my numbers then it motivates me again
@ 2:55 with this tiny cassette I probably couldn't do a single climb on my home trails 😀
I don't have a bike computer but what I do have is a Garmin watch. With a cheap mount on my bike I have all the info on the watch on the handlebars. I use a heart rate monitor on my chest that connects to the watch. Very convenient solution.
Good solution!!
My number 1 upgrade for XC was an ebike 😅
I find short fingered gloves are much easier to get at gels, gummies, and bars while moving efficiently. Had some issues in a gravel race not being able to feel opening of packaging with full gloves.
Y'all ought to see the looks I get from wearing fingerless weightlifting gloves for wrist support but I don't care, they work, hot but I like the thick pads for comfort.
I can’t imagine they would be too different than fingerless cycling gloves.
I ride clipped in on all my bikes , can’t ride without them .
Me too. When I started, there weren’t any clipless pedals and I rode with toe clips, double leather straps, and road cleats and shoes so I was completely locked in unless I could reach down to swipe the leather straps open. It made me a really good bike handler, that’s for sure! I was glad when Shimano came out with the M737 though.
Great video.
I wish I could ride clips. Size 14 extra extra wide foot = no clips though. It’s basically impossible to find shoes that fit. 5ten freeriders aren’t really wide enough, but I make them work.
You can buy pedal extenders, those will help a ton
I think a dropper post is more necessary on a hard tail than a full sus
Having 1 by is so nice not worrying constantly about the front deralieur.
MTN BIKON just curious, what is there to worry about? Unless you mean the noise, which I wouldn’t consider a worry.
I assume MTN BIKON is just talking about keeping track of what gear the front chainring is in to avoid cross-gearing.
When you ride with a front derailleur, you just get used to knowing what gears to use and when to change. I liked being able to go from the big ring to the middle with terrain changes without having to cycle through a bunch of gears. It can be advantageous in some ways.
Can you do a small drop on a cross country hard tail, and use it for going down hill. I have a specialized Rockhooper Comp 1X 29".
Yup, it will be up for some descending and small drops, but if you push it too much you risk cracking the frame.
Thank you. Good video.
Some great tips. Have you looked at crankbros eggbeater pedals? The four way entry is so good.
Yup, I (Macky) have ridden all sorts of pedals at different times in my career. I prefer the SPD style though because I like the clearer snap-in/snap-out feeling.
Off topic, but what are the typical fees, winnings, prizes for XC, enduro, and other disciplines at different levels like pro and or elite? Videos are awesome, I really like the workout and diet videos. Thank you
those pink glasses are a brave choice
Tried riding clipped in for years, no matter how maybe bike fits I had I always ended up with ACL problems
There are potentially several reasons for this. One thing might be related to Q factor; the distance between the pedals that creates an A frame for the legs. Short legs will be affected more by Q factor since it creates sharper angles, and this can affect the knee during the pedal cycle. If the cranks and pedals are too wide, the legs have a hard time pedaling efficiently up and down since they’re splayed out too far.
Another thing to look at is crank length. Shorter cranks are being found to be better for the knees since it makes for less angle in the knee at the top of the stroke.
Get a really good quality bike fit done to look over your set up and pedaling style; it could discover why your ACL is being affected like that. Ideally, cycling should be good for developing strength for knee problems and rehabbing after ACL surgery; so if it’s aggravating the injury, then there should be a way to fix it.
P.S., make sure your clipless pedals have enough float to adjust to changes in your pedal stroke too. They should be able to twist some before release. Different pedals vary in the amount of float included. SPDs generally have plenty of float angle.
Hope that helps.
#hardtail4life! Love my hard tail!
thank you so much i have been looking for a vid like this👍👍👍👍
Great video! Mezcal is my favorite rear tire but I’ve been looking for something meatier for the front. What is the front tire on Syds bike? Looks like a Martello and barzo combined! I’m assuming it’s a proto tire, will it make it to production?
Correct on all counts 😂 pretty sure it will go to production and we'll definitely be talking about it when it does!
Tire question...what psi is best for tubeless tires? Also if you have too much pressure does it diminish the ability of the cornering knobs when your cornering?
Great video...again! Thank you.
In terms of tire pressure for tubeless, it depends on a number of factors like rider weight, riding style, tire width, tire casing, rim width, and whether or not you use tire inserts. To give you an idea, I (Macky) run 24psi in the front and 29 in the back on 2.35 tires and weigh about 170lbs. Syd runs 19 and 26 and weighs about 140. We both ride aggressively so have to run slightly higher pressures. You should experiment and see what works for you but remember that you can usually run a couple psi lower in the front and if you like to hit jumps or drops you should make sure to test your pressure on those features as well because they put more load on the tires than normal riding does.
And yes, too much pressure gives you worse traction all around (accelerating, cornering and braking).
Are you both running oval chain rings?
Nope
How much does the bike weigh
Around 25 pounds.
The best xc tires is the Michelin jet xcr😍😍 this is mi secret to win the race
receipts please!
Two!!!! Great video as always!
I am still confused about the differences between XC, Eduro, downhill, cross-country?
XC = cross-country is a mass start race (usually) where you're timed on the climbs and the descents and the first person across the finish line wins.
DH = downhill is an individual start race that is downhill only with one run and the fastest time wins. You usually take a chairlift or shuttle to the top.
Enduro is kinda a mix of the two. Multiple individual start downhill stages that are timed, the times are added together and the fastest (shortest) overall time wins. You generally have to pedal to the start of each stage, but the climbs are not timed, only the descents.
Your video popped up while I was searching for Technium sunglasses....seems impossible to find a red frame pair in the USA. C'mon Shimano! 😕
Recommendations for inexpensive chamois?? Are there any for less than $60 that are still good quality?
Not sure on the pricing in the US but Endura include decent ones with there riding shorts that's are great! In the UK they cost around £65 and are worth every penny
I rode clipped in forever on the road and want to on my MTB, but I feel significant left side knee and groin pain when I’ve tried. Any ideas or suggestions?
Most likely your issue is set up. Make sure that your saddle height is the same on both bikes (measure from the bottom bracket to the middle of the saddle). And also check to make sure your cleats are in the same position. This can be a bit difficult with road vs MTB cleats, but try to get them as close as possible. Hopefully that will help!
There are potentially several reasons for this. One thing might be related to Q factor; the distance between the pedals that creates an A frame for the legs. Short legs will be affected more by Q factor since it creates sharper angles, and this can affect the knee during the pedal cycle. If the cranks and pedals are too wide, the legs have a hard time pedaling efficiently up and down since they’re splayed out too far. Also, make sure the distance from the center to the pedal is the same on both sides.
Another thing to look at is crank length. Shorter cranks are being found to be better for the knees since it makes for less angle in the knee at the top of the stroke.
Get a really good quality bike fit done to look over your set up and pedaling style.
Ideally, cycling should be good for developing strength and should not cause such problems, so if it’s causing problems, then there should be a way to fix it.
P.S., make sure your clipless pedals have enough float to adjust to changes in your pedal stroke too. They should be able to twist some before release. Different pedals vary in the amount of float included. SPDs generally have plenty of float angle.
Hope that helps.
I noticed in the BCBR vids your running the Pearl X project elite shoes and here you have the Pros. Is there that much difference between the two to justify?
Honestly not really. The pros have 2 boa buckles and the elite is 1 boa and 1 Velcro. But they have the same sole.
Download STRAVA for your smart watch!!! It provides the needed info
Great no nonsense info and tips
guys road racing does have a jersy with pokets
Lol that the most replayed part of this video is Syd modelling her XC gear
Where are y’all located? Interesting looking country in the background - and no shade. :-)
That was in Taos, NM
Are cleat positions the same for big bikes and xc for you guys?
Yup
@@sydandmacky sick thanks!
thanks for sharing, good idea, hardtail for life
Just wondering what trail this is filmed on? Looks a lot like the lower south boundary to me.
Ken Berkley I was wonder the same thing! And u might be right
Close! It was just past the entrance to Talpa Traverse on Ojitos.
where can I find a race near me
What happened to NINER ??
This was from before we worked with Niner.
Thank you guys, this advise or tips are really good, a wish someone told me at list half of this when I first started reading.🚴🚴🔝📸🔝☑️🙏🤟👍
I haven't used clips in forever, but I've never felt 100% comfortable with them. I think I'm just traumatized from horrific toe clip experiences in the early 90s. I'll never understand why anyone makes a stink either way, they both work and both have pros and cons, whats the big deal?
BKXC rides cross country on carbon rims and big tires 🤔
i dont where gloves for xc i just use ESI grips
Great video!
As a roadie, I can barely contemplate not riding clipless pedals... To the point that, I do need to ride flats a bit more to get used to them.
As always, great video guys.
great info another great video
For the people that dont wanna see all the video the minute is the: 13:06
Thumbs up 👍 great tips 😉🚴🚴👌
Syd can sell some kit😊
It's cool that youngens like your self are still running toe clips. You must also be doing some track racing. I remember once being able to bend over and tighten the strap with no problem. I've since lost a lot of my flexibility. I ride flats on my MTB and CLIPLESS on my road/gravel 😜
9:29 I just wear Five Ten freerider shoes on Catalyst pedals, good power transfer, more stability.
Yes I ride with the same pedals, same shoes, of course in winter and rainy days I switch to waterproof shoes, but they are still Five ten Freerider.
there is no need for stiffer sole if you have pedals that support the arch and you use mid foot position.
the ball of foot position never left right to me, still does not, I sink at drops, less stable, but even with mid foot position it won't feel right unless you got pedals that support the arch, as the arch won't hug the pedal.
this means I can have lighter shoe, that is comfortable to walk in.
I can't ride with clips, because I would not always be able to unclip, due to issues I have with hips,feet, and the rest of it really, my hips get misaligned, so do my feet, also elbows,shoulder too, this has caused several crashes under technical climbs, but I was able to bail and run away, or stand up, but this would not be possible with clips no matter how good you get at it. I haven't even tried it, cus I know it won't work for me.
also winter riding in clipless pedals would not be so fun, snow, ice stuck, struggle to clip in, so lubing it well to avoid ice is important, but it will pack up with snow.
so best option is flat pedals with long pins, this has worked very well for me, I tried short pins but it's not long enough in the winter, for summer it could work, but I still prefer long pins.
I haven't done any races in any discipline. but I always go full enduro on very ride.
Also, how sexy are bibs? lololol... I wear a regular chamois, I can't bring myself to buy bibs... I'd feel like a teletubbie wearing them hahaha
Next time you buy a new chamois, you should consider them. They're pretty comfy without the waistband!
@@sydandmacky I will :D
But how to get in to all those sort of races?! I am living in Europe (flat place) and.. I don't know but here... I am riding for 3 months and there are no races for me!? I think maybe I have talent. How to get new MTB buddies? Jeez.. I wish there where more woman doing MTB here.
Facebook is great for finding local MTB groups and races :)
Thank you for calling them "clip-in" not clipless. Thank you!!!
Those pedals have been called clipless since Shimano first developed the SPD pedal. They were named clipless because they replaced pedals with toe clips (The usually stainless steel or plastic hoops attached to pedals with a strap that goes over your foot to hold it on to the pedals). Clip in is acceptable terminology for clipless pedals, but clipless is the more correct and more widely recognised term for this type of pedal.
It's true, but also such a point of confusion for people. If only they hadn't called pedal cages "clips" 🤷♂️
@@sydandmacky As luck would have it the word cage is already taken in pedal terminology too. A caged pedal is one where the outer edge of the pedal is made from a single strip of metal with teeth in each side to provide grip.
They're still in use on trials bikes (Look for images of the Trialtech Sport Lite pedal for an example of the caged pedal style), but have fallen almost completely out of favour with the rest of the cycling world.
The reason is that since the cage is almost always aluminium, once you put a good few miles on them your shoes polish the teeth smooth, making the pedals much less grippy, especially in wet conditions, while they still do significantly more damage than a pinned pedal if you get one in the shin.
No gnar was shredded in this video
Dang cold blooded
For riders switching to clips. I use a brand called crankbrothers which arent adjustable on the clip but they're cleats are made to be used differently. They make a 10 degree release which feels like coming off of flats and they make a 15/20 degree release. I would give them a shot.
Shimano also make two different mtb cleats. Changing to the multi-directional release version gave me a lot more confidence.
Great video, lots of good information!
Lovely
First! For whatever that's worth.
Steve Mungari it’s not worth any more than my SIXTYSEVENTH!!1
Hardtails are where it's at. I'm 49 and crush millennials lugging their full squishies over the trails. I'm buying this one: www.bikesdirect.com/products/motobecane/29er-mountain-bikes/fantom-29-cf-eagle-carbon-29er-mountain-bikes.htm
Why she riding 175mm cranks!
I see XTR is lowest tier in US
Yeah its Simple but the VIDEO is TOO LONG for THREE(3)! OK?
Syd ;)
I know I said you should do some XC. But lycra? And in the future please discuss chamois in the privacy of your own home, or van.
@Christopher McGlaughlin lol, please no!
I am 10 and I ride clips
Almost everything you are talking about is old school. Packs are stupid, let the bike do the work. Who has never heard of a jersey without pockets? That's called a t-shirt. Spandex with chamois all the way. Bibs are way more comfortable. Baggy shorts get caught on everything. Why would anybody NOT use clips? That's nuts. Time ATAC greatest pedal ever. Go for the carbon hard tail over the light tires. Carbon is the smoothest ride. Aluminum is a joke. Get the best puncture proof tires over light weight. Great video.
Get some personality! At least act like you enjoy riding!