Hi!! I hope you can be kind enough to help me. I ran out of ideas… I have one that loses prime so after few seconds the engine doest start anymore. We have to make the priming procedure… i already check for any possible source of leak or air intrusion. I do know it is the pump the culprit. Anything else is fine. Also shows less than ideal pressure. I guess we have two problems… would you help me with ideas? Thanks
Have you had the injectors tested and leaking injector can let the fuel flow back to the pump and let air in. Also you can do a bucket test. Remove inlet and return lines on the engine put clear hose on into a bucket with fuel in it get the engine primed and running and see if you get air bubbles when running. And then turn engine off and see which side the air comes from first. Gives you a side to start on
Hi!!! I have one that performs fine installed in the test bench, but in the engine loses it priming. I already checked and chance everything in the engine, so I do know the problem innonside the pump. Repair shops insisted the pump is fine. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance!!
Great video. Very interesting. I recently put a THD fuel pin and 3,200 rpm gov spring in my '93 D250 12v and since doing that I have a lot of black smoke at the upper end of the rpm band. At idle and at lower to mid rpm range it's all good, and the added power is really great. I was thinking maybe backing out the power (fuel) screw some would help cut down on that black smoke, but after watching your video I'm thinking maybe that won't help. If I back the screw out some, it seems like that bypass hole will still get covered, but maybe just a little later than it would if I left the power screw alone. Is that correct? Or would doing that be worth a try? I've also been thinking about increasing preload on the afc spring, but I'm not sure which way to go. What do you think would be the best way to go to eliminate that black smoke?
Hey Rob great collection of content your putting out! Its been so helpful. Question.. my rotary pump is leaking when I started it this morning. If I put new "O rings" will it disturb the pump. Will o need to have it recalibrate?
@@CUTTERUPROB leak looks like from behind the bracket thats on the driver side of where the 6 injection lines exit the pump. The center nut is wet with fuel too.
hmmm sounds like the pump might have to come apart to be resealed. issue is most of the time when you get in there there is more wrong with the pump other then just seals.
Hi!! I hope you can be kind enough to help me. I ran out of ideas… I have one that loses prime so after few seconds the engine doest start anymore. We have to make the priming procedure… i already check for any possible source of leak or air intrusion. I do know it is the pump the culprit. Anything else is fine. Also shows less than ideal pressure. I guess we have two problems… would you help me with ideas? Thanks
Have you had the injectors tested and leaking injector can let the fuel flow back to the pump and let air in. Also you can do a bucket test. Remove inlet and return lines on the engine put clear hose on into a bucket with fuel in it get the engine primed and running and see if you get air bubbles when running. And then turn engine off and see which side the air comes from first. Gives you a side to start on
Hi!!! I have one that performs fine installed in the test bench, but in the engine loses it priming. I already checked and chance everything in the engine, so I do know the problem innonside the pump. Repair shops insisted the pump is fine. Any ideas??? Thanks in advance!!
Great video. Very interesting. I recently put a THD fuel pin and 3,200 rpm gov spring in my '93 D250 12v and since doing that I have a lot of black smoke at the upper end of the rpm band. At idle and at lower to mid rpm range it's all good, and the added power is really great. I was thinking maybe backing out the power (fuel) screw some would help cut down on that black smoke, but after watching your video I'm thinking maybe that won't help. If I back the screw out some, it seems like that bypass hole will still get covered, but maybe just a little later than it would if I left the power screw alone. Is that correct? Or would doing that be worth a try? I've also been thinking about increasing preload on the afc spring, but I'm not sure which way to go. What do you think would be the best way to go to eliminate that black smoke?
I will be doing some tuning videos on a Ve pumps shortly. I will explain
@@CUTTERUPROB That would be great! Subscribed.
Sooo what would make a the pump idle but when you give it throttle it wont rev up ........?
Every time I have seen it was a internal pump issue
Hey Rob great collection of content your putting out! Its been so helpful. Question.. my rotary pump is leaking when I started it this morning. If I put new "O rings" will it disturb the pump. Will o need to have it recalibrate?
It depends on we’re it is leaking from.
That’s is for watching. Please share the video!
@@CUTTERUPROB leak looks like from behind the bracket thats on the driver side of where the 6 injection lines exit the pump. The center nut is wet with fuel too.
hmmm sounds like the pump might have to come apart to be resealed. issue is most of the time when you get in there there is more wrong with the pump other then just seals.
@@CUTTERUPROB thats what I'm afraid of. Well now I got to learn how to get the engine to TDC and lock the pump in place to pull it i guess
I have a leak from that bolt your thumb is touching at 3:05-3:06, is it possible to fix without a rebuild
There is a oring or a washer there you said be able to replace
So your better off just putting in a 4200 governor spring instead of messing with the power screw just a thought
If your have the fuel yes I would do the gov springs. But the spring won’t add fuel