Glad I could inspire you! Lol! I have a video you may want to watch has some important tips before you start the installation process. th-cam.com/video/1rMpDlE9ADU/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching!
I could not find where to drill the holes to drop the wires from my attic because #1 it's way too hot up there in FL and #2 there is no way I can see to drill and feed the wire down to my wall location. But other than that it came out great
only thing i would change is to add a single gang low voltage mounting bracket to make this a more perfect job. It's only an extra $1.50 and you wont need to drill holes in the drywall and use the little plastics for the screws.
You don't even need the full old work box. For low voltage, there's a part that effectively serves as a protective perimeter for the single gang hole in the drywall. This keeps you from having to fight to get the wiring into a box while giving your drywall protection and giving you mounting holes (and room for that beautiful 6 point keystone panel for when you expand again later) ... I came here to ensure Mike's comment was down here
@@ghammer9773 Yes !! The 6-port keystone cover is your best friend when running any sort of data or telecommunication. Add the low voltage clamp instead of a full box and your data project is MUCH easier
I do this everyday, would have ran better supports, and a mud ring for the faceplate, screw the anchors. Eliminate the rjs and place rack with patch panel with better cable management more user friendly and upgradable
Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don't have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4's. Just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.
Before going into an attic on a warm sunny day, wetting down the entire roof with water will cause evaporative cooling and lower the attic temperatures, better yet pick a rainy day to do that work.
@@RayleighCriterion That is a good idea but in Las Vegas it rains once every 2 months or so. Last year it didn't rain for 5 months....ugh. I can't wet my roof down because we have solar panles. It was a fun project and it turned out great. I installed the 1 gang low voltage wall plate 2 weeks later and that video will be up next week. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well!
Good tip with the kneeboard. I spent about 2 weeks doing floor demolition and insulation removal in an ancient attic, constantly balancing between joists. It gave me a really stubborn corn under a toe that took 4 or 5 months to get rid of.
This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.
Thank you for watching and I added the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made on the install. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
I'd also recommend if you have the wall open or unfinished to run a conduit instead since that way you can easily run new cables when you need them, like optical, coax or CAT6/7 over CAT5E
@@legoboy-ox2kx Absolutely I would run cat6a at a minimum if the walls where open even use conduit. This is a simple way for anyone to drop wires into a room. Thank you for watching.
A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.
Here is my updated video on the low voltage gang wall plate install. I installed it about 3 weeks after I posted the video. Thank you for watching and for the valuable information. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Would recommend to use a cut in ring for the faceplate so the machine screws have a proper mount, also you dont need to guess on the size, just trace the ring with a pencil to get your dimensions. Also makes a rectangular hole so you can get your hand inside the wall to grab the wires.
My personal preference is to not use drywall mounting screws, instead, I would use a low-voltage mounting bracket. It's much cleaner, sturdier, and allows for better access behind the drywall.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching.
Great video for the basics...but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the 'attic floor' or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?
I did flat runs for all the Cat6 cables. And I labeled all of my Network Cables. Here is the video I posted about a month ago. th-cam.com/video/ka2g4XlcmeU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching I really appreciate it. And thanks for the good advice.
This. I had my house prewired for ethernet during construction. Jackass low voltage contractor labeled absolutely nothing. So I have like 20 ports in my cabinet and no clue where 18 of them go.
@@jghall00 you need a network tracer tool set -- one end sends a signal on the LAN jack and you go with the other one and test all the known ports in the house. A bit of work for 1 but it can help!
@@jghall00 Instead of crimping purchase and mount a small patch panel and punch down the wires on the back. Then use short patch cables to go from the patch panel to your devices.
You got extremely lucky finding the wire drop inside the wall space. Everytime I run a wire, a run a chase wire with it. Makes it very easy in case you want to drop TV/Cable coax. Also I lablel both ends of each wire, then draft out a schematic for final termination to a switch or router.
@@brownclorox simply means tying some wire or twine to the new circuit wire. If you ever need to pull another wire/cable, you don't have to fish around for it. Tie new cable to chase then pull whatever other cable or wire you want to run to the same place
Everyone whos new to this kind of thing is thinking "where do I drill" and you didn't explain that very well. You just said you had to drill down a couple 2x4's. I think you should've gone over this a little more, otherwise excellent video!
Other people have said to poke a piece of wire (14ga, a nail, pin, whatever is tiny) through the ceiling, and you can see where in the top plate to drill. And then plug the tiny hole (plaster, caulk, etc) after you're done.
An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great video!
Thanks for the tip! When you say chuck the wire into the drill, do you mean instead of using a small drill bit, we use the wire instead in place of a bit? Also, you're talking about using a stud finder to find studs above the ceiling drywall, right?
Yep, makes it a significantly more difficult job. Just went through this myself. Unless you happen to have a lucky perfect downward angle from the attic, you'll be stuck bending the long drill bit either from the top or bottom and it might be difficult to get it to drill without binding.
@@sweepingdenver Especially if you don't build your home or know the scematics of your home build so you can add the conduit, this is not a simple task with firebreaks as you said and requires alot more work.
Extra Safety Tip - A tube of Tub and Tile Sealer (DAP) can meet and exceed some fire code regs buy creating a air tight seal around the faceplate. It bonds well to the plastic and the drywall. Using it like a gasket at the wall plate and the hole in the ceiling. You will want to seal it to prevent not only air movement, but bug infestation as well.
@@trs-80fanclub12 Ants will find a way in no matter what you seal your faceplate with. The way to get rid of ants isn't to try and seal every millimeter in your house (an impossible task), but to get rid of any issues that attract ants, like rotting trash, etc. The wall plate sealing sounds like a stupid idea to me.
Those push jacks are awful. You can get jacks that you plug rj45s on the back that are more reliable. Could even get 50ft cables so you don't even need to do the connector work, although more expensive than adding connectors yourself. I love how wires magically pull through the first time...are you sure that wasn't the 2nd or 3rd take, lol. Why not run coax too?
Most important thing that isn't repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1" mounting bases, a couple bags of 4" max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8x1.5" wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down. A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.
There are a ton of things wrong with this. You should always use a mud ring/mpls. It will give you more space to reach into the wall and find the cables, also taper the end of the cable so it doesn’t snag on anything that might be in the wall. This video also assumes there is no insulation in the wall in which case the string with a bolt won’t work. I use a small fish tape that I got for around $20. That being said I do still carry a bolt with washers and line on it.
I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah... pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops... But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks :)
Great video, unfortunately I do not have a central network panel at home. Do you have any video about installing it or do you recommend get prof to install it?
I'm going to be uploading a small network panel installation video in the next 3 or 4 weeks so keep an eye out. You could also just hire a low voltage installer to install the panel. Thanks for watching!
I added the voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after the video posted. Here is the video update. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching.
I just spent all weekend in my attic swimming in pink insulation. It was so hot that my clothes were soaked on top of it. Not doing that again any time soon!
So I did something like this…but just bought a long ass cable and punched two holes, connected it to my router then to my PS5. Crude but effective. Got a port cover for both the exits. Has like a rubber gasket I guess you can call it. Kinda looks like a biscuit for a bow that the cables come out of the wall through. One day I’ll do it professionally. But til then…
No way in hell that this is real, you are trying to say you just fed that cat 5 down that wall no problem and it was right next to your hole... You know how many times i've fed wire down a wall and found it inside a 1 inch wide hole, in... what was that... about 3 seconds? Not once, ever. There is no way. First off, you must have some dainty fingers to be fitting in that hole and being able to fish around with apparent ease, and second you must have the worlds most debris free wall, no insulation, no wiring, no coke cans... even with fish sticks you will not get a wire to feed that straight and easy down a wall. I call bs.
Lol! That particular wall is right behind my shower where there are no pipes, insulation or wires in the wall cavity. Second it was easy because I had plenty of wire dropped down the hole that it bunched up at the bottom so when I cut the hole the bunched up wire was easy to grab. I've dropped wire so many times it's second nature. But thanks for calling me out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I'd rather be lucky than good any day! Lol! That interior wall faces the shower, so no fire blocks to deal with. Most interior walls do not have fire blocks, only exterior walls have them. But yes I got lucky and thank you for watching!
Why not just do it the right way, and put in an old work low voltage semi-box, they are only like $1.57 at Lowes, and no drywall anchors to fiddle-with. They make life much easier... :)
Who taught you??! You forgot your old-work low voltage “box” that grabs onto the drywall. This method would make it MUCH easier for any add-one in the future.
Moved into a House built in 74 last year. Haven't got to it yet but I plan to place a wall mounted 12U server rack in the closet of the room we made the Office. but Sadly while I know how to do things like line drops my weight makes me hesitant to DIY so I will either have to conscript the step son to do the attic/Crawl space work or pay someone to come out for it. I am hesitant to call someone out since the guy Comcast sent out did a half A** job of it by just drilling through the floor to run the cables instead of running them in the wall like they should be.
Yep the internet companies like Comcast and Cox do a terrible job of running wires. They take the easiest way possible which always looks like sh%t. If you lived in Las Vegas I could recommend some great installers. If your step son can do the drops that would be a great learning experience for him. I have several wire drop videos so make sure to watch them and have your step son watch them too. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Question: I bought Cat 5-6 Wall plate that has the front side female opening. The backside also has the same female cat 5 connector(i guess so that you can just plug a patch cable and run to the other wall jack) If I use a standard (already terminated) Cat 5 cable will the wiring need reversed at some point? Hope that was not confusing.
If I'm understanding correctly, I believe you just plug the patch cable in and everything should work just fine. It sounds like a wall plate with pre-installed cat5 female adapters. It should work no problems.
I know this video is late and you probably won't reply but I'm a complete newbie to this. Basically when we got our house built we did get cables installed in every room but it was just the TV cable unfortunately so I'll have to rewire the cat-6 into my room. I just wanted to ask that if I directly just plug my the cat 6 cable into my modem which then goes to my room as a wall jack plug where I'll plug in another ethernet cable to connect to my computer. Do I necessarily have to plug the cable into a router and then into a modem for it work or my previous mentioned method will work just fine? If somebody has information, please let me know. It'll be very appreciated
Yes that would work going from modem to computer. However that means you have only one device in your network. Also make sure your computer has anti virus software and the firewall needs to be turned on.
It's the EZ crimper that works with thr RJ45 pass through connectors. All these tools are linked in my description and are available for purchase. And yes it makes it super easy to make patch cables. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
I do not understand why people don't use old construction gang boxes, instead of just screwing to drywall. I know codes are different everywhere, but it not only looks nicer, but lasts. Plus they're easy to replace the boxes should a plastic clip fail.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching.
Be mindful you can try do this yourself. However if you are not a licensed installer, you will void all insurance on your property. There are strict guidelines along electrical, gas lines and much more. Would not do this on your own. Get a professional licensed installer. There is about a 500 page book with the rules and regulations cross industries. Don’t ruin your home for a 15min video or void your house insurance
Also, skip the Cat5e and Cat6 from Lowes/Home Depot. I'm fairly certain they aren't solid copper rather CCA (Cooper clad aluminum) which is garbage. It will work but can cause serious issues if running POE
I've had zero issues with any of my PoE connections. My Netgear WAX630 runs smooth as butter. And PoE cameras are sharp and clear. Maybe I just got lucky with the cable I bought. Also some of my cat6 is cat6a but not all of them. That's probably the only thing I would change is running all cat6a. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it. I have 80 plus networking videos so make sure to check them out!
Whats that black tool you used at @9:27 to push the wires into the CAT6 keystone connector? Are those usually included with those connectors? Would a flat heat work?
It's a punch down tool. It comes with all keystone jacks. Don't use a flat head it will break it. Feel free to ask me any questions I answer all comments. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Wall plate Not installed correctly, should of been properly screwed into a low voltage housing insert that should of been installed first into the drywall. Do the job correct and not like a shady ripoff contractor.
Take it easy. I installed the low voltage gang bracket 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching.
Im at the beginning, did you forget punch down tool for the wall plate? Or do they not require it ? 8:59 oh gotcha! 😂 you should use a wall bracket for those mount plates they make ones that connect securely to the drywall.
I did use the black punch down tool that comes with the wall jack plug. You can use an extension punch down tool but the plastic one works fine. I have both tools. I. Installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks later. Here's the video for that install. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Gotcha!!!! Lol! Thank you for pointing that out and thank you for watching.
You can use a sheet of plastic that's cut to fit inside the box. Simply drill holes in the plastic sheet where you want to attach your devices and attach them using velcro straps or zip ties. They also make brackets for these boxes. Here is the video link for that product. th-cam.com/video/nytwwY_JR2s/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Keep me posted!
Good video, but instead of a bolt I use a fishing weight, heavier and smaller, now can I have a video of how to bring the wires up from the basement, please and thank you.
I used the bolt on a string method because that's kind of how I've always done it but there dozens of different ways to do the same thing. As for basement to first floor I can't show that because we don't have a basement. But running ethernet up the corner of the basement wall to the ceiling and drilling a hole from the ceiling to the first level floor show work well. Just use a stud finder to check for plumbing and electrical before drilling.
Can both ends of the interior ethernet cable terminate at a wall socket? So a cable from modem to socket, a cable through the walls from socket to socket, and then a final cable from socket to device.
Better to drop from the attic crawlspace or go up from the 2” high floor dirt crawlspace ? Is water a concern? Do you need to make a conduit run out of pvc ?
Attic crawl space is your best bet. You have more flexibility and options. Water is not a concern when dropping wires into walls. If there is water in your walls then you have a big problem! Conduit would be used for outdoors when running wires to a separate building. PVC pipe would work as conduit. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
cat6, no reason for 2 wires. with a 1gb switch, one wire is more than plenty for home use. you can split 2 pairs to form dual connection over 1 wire, but still not sure why you will need it if you put a small switch.
I appreciate the video! I’m a new telecom apprentice in the union and I’ve been looking at your videos, I’m not the brightest so I need explanations I can go back over and look at. These videos are great! Keep it up.
I would try to run it the easiest way possible. You can drill through the plywood into the joists to run the ethernet. Maybe try doing one ethernet run that way and see how it goes first. Then determine if its better to run through the crawl space. Keep me posted!
How da fudge sickle pop did you drill into the drywall and know the wires you dropped were there? I feel like I would be drilling holes everywhere to find em
Lol! I've wire dropped so many network cables I just know where it will end up in the wall. And I also measure where I drill the hole in the attic and then measure the exact distance at the bottom of the wall and that usually works perfectly. I just uploaded a new cat6 cable run video so make sure to check it out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
I agree with pulling 4 for sure. I just wanted to show multiple ethernet drops and 2 seemed like what most people would want in the home. For me, more ethernet is more better!! Lol. Thank you for watching.
Yes half of my house is Cat6a and cat6. Lucky that all of my cat6 is free floating in the walls so pulling Cat6a to replace the cat6 will be easy. Thanks for the great coments.
Yes with a regular punch down tool but this is the cheap plastic tool that comes with the wall jack. There is no sharp blade on the end of the tool. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it .
They make a very long drill bit that can reach the firestop so you can drop the wire through it. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Very tricky and it will require cutting some holes in the drywall. I will make a video on this subject soon. It's way too much information for me to explain in the comment section.
Lol! Right! It was only temporary he now has a high end gaming chair! And his computer is in a different room! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
That can happen but its pretty rare in interior walls. Walls facing the outside tend to have the fire blocks. They make very long drill bit extenders that can be used to drill through the fire block from above. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
As UTH says, they make long extenders. I also have a 5 foot long installers auger bit for these cross brace situations. Even with a successful penetration of the fire stop, it can still be challenging to fish down the small hole. So, what I have done is drilled a second hole up in the attic, basically right next to the first one. This allows a small flashlight to shine down into the stud cavity so I see the hole I made with the 5 fools long bit. Then a more rigid fish tape or fibreglass fish sticks will easily go down into the other hole up in the attic. The fish sticks are real nice because they glow in the dark, and they screw together in 5 foot lengths.
Do you mean fire blocks? Yes, we have them mostly in external facing walls. Internal walls usually do not have fire blocks but sometimes they do which really depends on the builder.. I've run into that problem in one of my older homes but my new home doesn't have them in the inside walls. Thank you for watching.
I did about 3 weeks later. I explained in a separate video that I didn't want to drive 14 miles to pick up low voltage bracket so made do with what I had. I installed the ring 3 weeks later once I made the journey to Home Depot! Thanks for watching!
Very informative. I think I’d get up in the attic and not know where my wall is. Also if I found the wall I probably wouldn’t know where to drill for them once I got back downstairs. 😅
It takes quite a bit of preparation and planning. I measured several times inside my house to determine where the correct wall drop location was. I would recommend doing this in the winter or fall. The attic got too hot. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
I ran ethernet cables in my previous home. (Current home has low roof and hard to get around; would like to run some here but would have to just about crawl on my belly) I found a good way to see where to drill in the attic is to determine what part of the wall you want the cable to come down, then get a heavy piece of wire about a foot long and push it through the ceiling drywall only about an inch away from the wall. Then go up to the attic and look for the wire sticking up. Then drill your hole 2-3 inches over from the wire through the faceplate.
@@scottwski that's a good way to do it. In my situation it would have an issue with wire because the ceiling had a kick out that might have prevented the wire from going up. Just be careful in the attic and take your time. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Hi there. I apologize in advance if this is covered in the video and I missed it, or in the comments, but I was curious about the network panel. I'm referring to the big white cabinet that is encased in the wall. For some reason, googling these terms doesn't give me anything remotely close to this. Is this how it's called? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
It's called a network panel or network enclosure or network box. They have them on Amazon. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
When buying keystones and wall plates its a good idea to make sure they are the same brand. Although they should be universal, mixing brands doesn't always work well, and the keystones will pop out of the plate when you're plugging something in.
No fireblock around the cables. Some walls have fireblocks but this wall did not have one. The hole in the attic was only big enough for the 2 wires so it's not an issue. Thank you for watching.
The problem I have run into is the “Fire Blocks” between the studs. Some are smaller than the wall studs, which makes it easy to get the wires down the wall. But, when they are the same size, it not a fun or enjoyable to drill through them. Or, need to move the wall plates to a different location which changes everything.
Yes fireblocks are annoying. Most inside walls don't have them. But some builders add them in random areas. My house has very few fireblocks and most are on the outside facing walls. Use a simple stud finder to locate the fireblocks. They do make a very long drill bit for these situations. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I really want to get ethernet added to my whole home but I would take at least the top floor. Problem I have is the bottom AND top floor have vaulted ceilings, any advice?
It depends where your ISP connection comes into your home. If its a central location you can run the Ethernet along the baseboards and then drill a hole to the next room and run the cables through the holes. Make sure the ethernet color is the same as the baseboards. Each room should get a 5 port switch so you can plug an ethernet cable in to run to the next room. Its like tethering the cables. This is probably the best option.
@@UltimateTechHub The broadband cable comes in at the top floor so its in one of the rooms Im talking about. That is a good idea! I do have one room torn apart down to the baseboards for a remodel.
I’m in apartment. My router only had 2 cables, the power cable, and a coaxial cable. Ik the coaxial cable connects to a modem but what does the modem do. Does it allow me to use the LAN ports on my walls in other rooms?
The modem's job is to connect your network to your provider's network. Are you 100% sure its just a modem? Most ISP equipment nowadays is a combination of a modem and router and wifi access point in one unit. Does your modem have 4 ethernet ports on the back? if so, its a combo unit.
I used a Low Voltage Gang bracket. I installed 3 weeks after the video posted. Here is the video. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Our viewers requested this video so we hope you enjoy it! This is "How to Wire Drop Cat6 cables using the Old School Method" that works great! This Ethernet wire drop installation is by far the Best and Cheapest method to drop Cat6 or Cat5e wires into any room! This wire drop cost about $100 dollars in supplies. Any questions or suggestions feel free to comment below. Thank you for watching!
@M Maama I would recommend a central location where in the center of the hosue. Like a coat closet or laundry room or a closet in a bedroom. Even in a kitchen pantry. Having it centrally located keeps your ethernet runs shorter . Without an attic you can run cables inside the walls but it is more work. Good luck and keep me posted.
Just did some pre-measuring and I've wire dropped a ton of wires in my house so I know my walls very well. Also, got a little lucky but you know the ole saying...better to be lucky than good! lol! Thanks for watching! 😄😉
@@UltimateTechHub haha, appreciate the input. Thinking about doing this but don’t want to tear through wrong walls. The house uses Coax instead of RJ45. Just found out you can convert coax to RJ and still run 1mbs up and down.
Haha, its nice to have a finished attic! I wish my attic was finished but there isn't much space as you can see! Thanks for watching and checkout my newest video its on Cat6 cable runs and low voltage gang box installs! Have a great day!
Haha. The video is titled wall fishing but that section was like 5 seconds and that wall must be the easiest drop. I've never been able to just push wire thru a hole and have it get to the destination with all the obstacles like metal plates, insulation, studs, etc.
Pro Tips. #1. Cut horizontally first so if by chance you hit a stud, you can cut the rest of the length in the opposite direction of the stud. #2 Always use pull string with your runs in case you need to add lines in the future.
I did pull string but the string dropped through the hole accidentally....Lol. I do have 2 cables so on can act as the string. Thanks for the 2 pro tips and thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub if you ever get in a real pinch, you can power two devices with 1 cable (2 pairs-white orange, orange, white green, green) for one device and the last pairs (blue, white blue, white brown, brown) for the second device. Just wire the 2 RJ45s at each end of the 1 line as if your only using white orange, orange, white green, green and put them where you normally would, skipping all the missing pairs.
I've been wanting to do this for my man cave for so long and never got to it, after watching this I want to do it asap.
Glad I could inspire you! Lol!
I have a video you may want to watch has some important tips before you start the installation process.
th-cam.com/video/1rMpDlE9ADU/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching!
its been more than a year, how did it turned out?
@@marvinfrancisco4812 came out great
I could not find where to drill the holes to drop the wires from my attic because #1 it's way too hot up there in FL and #2 there is no way I can see to drill and feed the wire down to my wall location. But other than that it came out great
@@UltimateTechHub cool
only thing i would change is to add a single gang low voltage mounting bracket to make this a more perfect job. It's only an extra $1.50 and you wont need to drill holes in the drywall and use the little plastics for the screws.
Yep. The Carlon orange low voltage old work boxes are excellent
You don't even need the full old work box. For low voltage, there's a part that effectively serves as a protective perimeter for the single gang hole in the drywall. This keeps you from having to fight to get the wiring into a box while giving your drywall protection and giving you mounting holes (and room for that beautiful 6 point keystone panel for when you expand again later)
... I came here to ensure Mike's comment was down here
@@ghammer9773 Yes !! The 6-port keystone cover is your best friend when running any sort of data or telecommunication. Add the low voltage clamp instead of a full box and your data project is MUCH easier
I do this everyday, would have ran better supports, and a mud ring for the faceplate, screw the anchors. Eliminate the rjs and place rack with patch panel with better cable management more user friendly and upgradable
yeah the face plate install is mickey mouse.
Having spent a lot of time in my own attic doing the same type of job as you did. I always carried a knee board to span the rafters. It makes the work much easier and you don't have to worry about keeping your balance on top of 2 by 4's. Just cut a piece of 1/2" plywood large enough to cover a span of two joists. Another remedy is never work in a attic that is over 90 degrees. Between sweat running into your eyes and the insulation sticking to your skin, it can make it quite miserable to work around. Plan your attic work at after 10:00PM and finish before 8:00AM. to beat the heat.
Great advice thanks. I'm doing more wire drops soon so this will come in handy!! Thanks for watching!
Before going into an attic on a warm sunny day, wetting down the entire roof with water will cause evaporative cooling and lower the attic temperatures, better yet pick a rainy day to do that work.
@@RayleighCriterion That is a good idea but in Las Vegas it rains once every 2 months or so. Last year it didn't rain for 5 months....ugh. I can't wet my roof down because we have solar panles. It was a fun project and it turned out great. I installed the 1 gang low voltage wall plate 2 weeks later and that video will be up next week. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well!
Tried this in Texas, but the heat was still unbearable in the middle of the night. You have to wait for winter sometimes. :(
Good tip with the kneeboard. I spent about 2 weeks doing floor demolition and insulation removal in an ancient attic, constantly balancing between joists. It gave me a really stubborn corn under a toe that took 4 or 5 months to get rid of.
This is an okay “weekend warrior” type install.. Pro tip: your electric recepticle will always be on a stud. Use the stud and install the cables/low voltage ring on the opposite side of the stud. Use an old work box, or Low Voltage ring.. do not screw the pate to the wall. Also, fish sticks/fish tape can come in handy for many walls.
Thank you for watching and I added the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video I made on the install.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
I'd also recommend if you have the wall open or unfinished to run a conduit instead since that way you can easily run new cables when you need them, like optical, coax or CAT6/7 over CAT5E
@@legoboy-ox2kx Absolutely I would run cat6a at a minimum if the walls where open even use conduit. This is a simple way for anyone to drop wires into a room. Thank you for watching.
You should also be supporting those cables so they aren't strained and stretching
A few suggestions from a low voltage installer. Safety first. Wear a dust mask when in the attic or crawl space as you never know what is floating around. For a more professional job, a low-Voltage old work bracket should always be used, to attach the wall plate too, not a hole and drywall anchors. After running the wires, stuff insulation in the holes to act as a fire block per National Electrical Code. Low voltage wires should be run through the rafters/ truss framing and not laid direct on the ceiling or insulation and supported every 4 to 5 feet. I always terminate each end of the run into RJ45 keystone jacks or a patch panel and never use RJ45 plugs.
Here is my updated video on the low voltage gang wall plate install. I installed it about 3 weeks after I posted the video. Thank you for watching and for the valuable information.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Would recommend to use a cut in ring for the faceplate so the machine screws have a proper mount, also you dont need to guess on the size, just trace the ring with a pencil to get your dimensions. Also makes a rectangular hole so you can get your hand inside the wall to grab the wires.
My personal preference is to not use drywall mounting screws, instead, I would use a low-voltage mounting bracket. It's much cleaner, sturdier, and allows for better access behind the drywall.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching.
Great video for the basics...but suggestion: label the cables in the closet so you know where they go if you ever have a problem or need to trace it back to another part of the house. Also, did you flat run the cables in attic across the 'attic floor' or did you sink them / protect them from being stepped on in any future attic visits?
I did flat runs for all the Cat6 cables. And I labeled all of my Network Cables. Here is the video I posted about a month ago.
th-cam.com/video/ka2g4XlcmeU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching I really appreciate it. And thanks for the good advice.
This. I had my house prewired for ethernet during construction. Jackass low voltage contractor labeled absolutely nothing. So I have like 20 ports in my cabinet and no clue where 18 of them go.
@@jghall00 you need a network tracer tool set -- one end sends a signal on the LAN jack and you go with the other one and test all the known ports in the house. A bit of work for 1 but it can help!
@@roadrunr92 I bought ine last week. The other problem is half the ports in the closet aren't terminated either. Have to find my crimp tool...
@@jghall00 Instead of crimping purchase and mount a small patch panel and punch down the wires on the back. Then use short patch cables to go from the patch panel to your devices.
You got extremely lucky finding the wire drop inside the wall space. Everytime I run a wire, a run a chase wire with it. Makes it very easy in case you want to drop TV/Cable coax. Also I lablel both ends of each wire, then draft out a schematic for final termination to a switch or router.
what is a chase wire?
@@brownclorox simply means tying some wire or twine to the new circuit wire. If you ever need to pull another wire/cable, you don't have to fish around for it. Tie new cable to chase then pull whatever other cable or wire you want to run to the same place
Everyone whos new to this kind of thing is thinking "where do I drill" and you didn't explain that very well. You just said you had to drill down a couple 2x4's. I think you should've gone over this a little more, otherwise excellent video!
Other people have said to poke a piece of wire (14ga, a nail, pin, whatever is tiny) through the ceiling, and you can see where in the top plate to drill.
And then plug the tiny hole (plaster, caulk, etc) after you're done.
Seal plates are your friends
so do we do cut out on the wall first?
An easy and very accurate way to locate exactly where you need to drop the line through the wall is to use a very small diameter wire on a drill. This would be something like the fine wire that used to keep insulation batting in place. Those are easily obtain at any big box store. Take and chuck the wire into a drill and drill up the ceiling adjacent to the location where you want to have the drop. Leave the wire up there and then go into the attic and find the wire. Patching the very small diameter hole that the wire makes is very easy and it will not be noticed. You can also use a stud finder to locate the space between the studs before you drill up with that wire. This ensures that you won’t hit a stud on the way down. This will also significantly reduce the amount of time you need to stay in a hot attic. Great video!
Thanks for the great information which is very valuable for future wire droppers!! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!!
I came to the comments looking for this. Thank you
Thanks for the tip! When you say chuck the wire into the drill, do you mean instead of using a small drill bit, we use the wire instead in place of a bit?
Also, you're talking about using a stud finder to find studs above the ceiling drywall, right?
I wish I understood any of what you said. Sounds great but I have no clue
@@NahBNah You're not the only one that did not understand almost a word of what this comment is trying to say hahaha
i use white wallplates with blue keystone couplers. just because blue jacks look nice for internet.
Why not use a cheap old construction low voltage box? would last longer and the plate won't rip out of the wall
I did use a low voltage bracket about 3 weeks later. Here is the video I did on the install.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Don't forget about the possibility of firebreaks in the wall cavity. You may need a long drill bit to drill through the firebreak also.
I agree 100 percent. I got lucky with no fire breaks in that particular wall. Thanks for watching!
Yep, makes it a significantly more difficult job. Just went through this myself. Unless you happen to have a lucky perfect downward angle from the attic, you'll be stuck bending the long drill bit either from the top or bottom and it might be difficult to get it to drill without binding.
haha that was fun
@@sweepingdenver Especially if you don't build your home or know the scematics of your home build so you can add the conduit, this is not a simple task with firebreaks as you said and requires alot more work.
Yep, a long flex bit is a must for this type of work
Extra Safety Tip - A tube of Tub and Tile Sealer (DAP) can meet and exceed some fire code regs buy creating a air tight seal around the faceplate. It bonds well to the plastic and the drywall. Using it like a gasket at the wall plate and the hole in the ceiling. You will want to seal it to prevent not only air movement, but bug infestation as well.
Thanks for the great idea. I will implement that for sure. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
@@UltimateTechHub ants are a real threat to a comfortable home these days lol. I cant stand them, and they will come in anywhere they can.
@@trs-80fanclub12 Ants will find a way in no matter what you seal your faceplate with. The way to get rid of ants isn't to try and seal every millimeter in your house (an impossible task), but to get rid of any issues that attract ants, like rotting trash, etc. The wall plate sealing sounds like a stupid idea to me.
@@user-nh3gu1ge3d Air penetration into walls is not allowed by most fire codes. The sealer is a cheap and affordable way to be compliant.
That sounds like a silly idea for the faceplate, but a great idea for sealing the hole drilled through the top-plate in the attic.
Those push jacks are awful. You can get jacks that you plug rj45s on the back that are more reliable. Could even get 50ft cables so you don't even need to do the connector work, although more expensive than adding connectors yourself. I love how wires magically pull through the first time...are you sure that wasn't the 2nd or 3rd take, lol.
Why not run coax too?
this is a HUGE MESS. poor quality work and zero room for growth. DONT DO THIS EVERYBODY
Most important thing that isn't repeated in these comments is the importance of suspending bundles. You want to mount the bundles up beside the truss members, not on the bottom to avoid them being bumped, snagged, etc. This also makes them much more pleasant to work around for you or any contractors (HVAC, Insulation, etc) that may have to work up there. A cheap and easy method is to go to homedepot and buy a few bags of 1" mounting bases, a couple bags of 4" max diameter cable ties and a few boxes of zinc #8x1.5" wood screws. The bases have adhesive backing, stick them to the sides of your joists with the openings at 12, 3, 6, and 9 oclock, run a fastener in them, cable tie goes tail up so that when you fasten them you pull the tail down.
A few words of advice, cable ties are not for lashing things down to weather a hurricane. The tie only needs to be tight enough that the bundle is free of separation, as soon as the tie is contacting the entire bundle circumference you can stop tightening. Use a cable tie torque gun like the Panduit GTS-E or the cheap IDEAL version and set it to torque setting 0-3. I like to bore diagonal paths through the joists of my trusses to minimize the amount of low hanging looms.
There are a ton of things wrong with this. You should always use a mud ring/mpls. It will give you more space to reach into the wall and find the cables, also taper the end of the cable so it doesn’t snag on anything that might be in the wall. This video also assumes there is no insulation in the wall in which case the string with a bolt won’t work. I use a small fish tape that I got for around $20. That being said I do still carry a bolt with washers and line on it.
I wish I lived in houses like this. Every example of network wire dropping are from newer builder grade suburbs type housing like this. I have lived in multiple states in multiple houses and new lived in anything like this. My current house was built in 1900 and does not have an attic like this (the attic is huge and has original hardwood floors in most of it) and is multi-story. Plus there is no drywall, it is all plaster and lathe boards. And the modem has to stay in the basement (made of crumbly field stone) so yeah... pulling for my house is going to be way more involved than these type of drops... But either way, thanks for sharing and I hope it was helpful for many folks :)
Great video, unfortunately I do not have a central network panel at home. Do you have any video about installing it or do you recommend get prof to install it?
I'm going to be uploading a small network panel installation video in the next 3 or 4 weeks so keep an eye out. You could also just hire a low voltage installer to install the panel. Thanks for watching!
Mud ring would be the ideal and most professional way. Just my opinion
I added the voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after the video posted. Here is the video update.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching.
@@UltimateTechHub right now mud rings are nearly impossible to get.. good job
WHY does it seem like no one has basements but me, and all of the tutorial people only have attics?! Must be nice!
Yes having an Attic is super convenient.
I just spent all weekend in my attic swimming in pink insulation. It was so hot that my clothes were soaked on top of it. Not doing that again any time soon!
Wait until winter!!
I can do all the connectors I just need someone to do the drops and drywall access point drilling.
Call a low voltage installer.
So I did something like this…but just bought a long ass cable and punched two holes, connected it to my router then to my PS5. Crude but effective. Got a port cover for both the exits. Has like a rubber gasket I guess you can call it. Kinda looks like a biscuit for a bow that the cables come out of the wall through. One day I’ll do it professionally. But til then…
I added the low voltage bracket a few weeks later. Here is the video on the installation.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=xAVjLEG78uLl8xHd
No way in hell that this is real, you are trying to say you just fed that cat 5 down that wall no problem and it was right next to your hole... You know how many times i've fed wire down a wall and found it inside a 1 inch wide hole, in... what was that... about 3 seconds? Not once, ever. There is no way. First off, you must have some dainty fingers to be fitting in that hole and being able to fish around with apparent ease, and second you must have the worlds most debris free wall, no insulation, no wiring, no coke cans... even with fish sticks you will not get a wire to feed that straight and easy down a wall. I call bs.
Lol! That particular wall is right behind my shower where there are no pipes, insulation or wires in the wall cavity. Second it was easy because I had plenty of wire dropped down the hole that it bunched up at the bottom so when I cut the hole the bunched up wire was easy to grab. I've dropped wire so many times it's second nature. But thanks for calling me out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
In this example, you got lucky in not getting your cables stuck on the way down on something in the wall, like another piece of wood.
I'd rather be lucky than good any day! Lol! That interior wall faces the shower, so no fire blocks to deal with. Most interior walls do not have fire blocks, only exterior walls have them. But yes I got lucky and thank you for watching!
Why not just do it the right way, and put in an old work low voltage semi-box, they are only like $1.57 at Lowes, and no drywall anchors to fiddle-with.
They make life much easier... :)
I did about 3 weeks later. Here is the video link showing and explaining the install.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching.
Who taught you??!
You forgot your old-work low voltage “box” that grabs onto the drywall. This method would make it MUCH easier for any add-one in the future.
I added the low voltage box 3 weeks later. Here's the video- th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Moved into a House built in 74 last year. Haven't got to it yet but I plan to place a wall mounted 12U server rack in the closet of the room we made the Office. but Sadly while I know how to do things like line drops my weight makes me hesitant to DIY so I will either have to conscript the step son to do the attic/Crawl space work or pay someone to come out for it. I am hesitant to call someone out since the guy Comcast sent out did a half A** job of it by just drilling through the floor to run the cables instead of running them in the wall like they should be.
Yep the internet companies like Comcast and Cox do a terrible job of running wires. They take the easiest way possible which always looks like sh%t. If you lived in Las Vegas I could recommend some great installers. If your step son can do the drops that would be a great learning experience for him. I have several wire drop videos so make sure to watch them and have your step son watch them too. Good luck and keep me posted. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Question: I bought Cat 5-6 Wall plate that has the front side female opening. The backside also has the same female cat 5 connector(i guess so that you can just plug a patch cable and run to the other wall jack) If I use a standard (already terminated) Cat 5 cable will the wiring need reversed at some point? Hope that was not confusing.
If I'm understanding correctly, I believe you just plug the patch cable in and everything should work just fine. It sounds like a wall plate with pre-installed cat5 female adapters. It should work no problems.
I don't understand why you didn't use a LV Box to mount the fascia plate to? Didn't wall mount the switch? Switch shouldn't be on the floor.
I wall mounted the switch. I didn't put it in my final cut. Tried to keep the video short as possible. Thanks for watching.
I know this video is late and you probably won't reply but I'm a complete newbie to this. Basically when we got our house built we did get cables installed in every room but it was just the TV cable unfortunately so I'll have to rewire the cat-6 into my room. I just wanted to ask that if I directly just plug my the cat 6 cable into my modem which then goes to my room as a wall jack plug where I'll plug in another ethernet cable to connect to my computer. Do I necessarily have to plug the cable into a router and then into a modem for it work or my previous mentioned method will work just fine? If somebody has information, please let me know. It'll be very appreciated
Yes that would work going from modem to computer. However that means you have only one device in your network. Also make sure your computer has anti virus software and the firewall needs to be turned on.
can we setup a POE flex on attic and add more lines cat6 ? so you don't have to run the wires all the way to switch/router
Yes you can. I have thought of that as well. I may do a video on that situation soon. Thanks for the great question and for watching my video!
What crimping tool do you use? I haven't seen that pass-through style terminal before! It looks so much easier than the non-pass-through terminals!
It's the EZ crimper that works with thr RJ45 pass through connectors. All these tools are linked in my description and are available for purchase. And yes it makes it super easy to make patch cables. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
I do not understand why people don't use old construction gang boxes, instead of just screwing to drywall. I know codes are different everywhere, but it not only looks nicer, but lasts. Plus they're easy to replace the boxes should a plastic clip fail.
I installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video link.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching.
Be mindful you can try do this yourself. However if you are not a licensed installer, you will void all insurance on your property. There are strict guidelines along electrical, gas lines and much more. Would not do this on your own. Get a professional licensed installer. There is about a 500 page book with the rules and regulations cross industries. Don’t ruin your home for a 15min video or void your house insurance
In the US, a homeowner can do this type of low voltage/data cable installation without a license.
Also, skip the Cat5e and Cat6 from Lowes/Home Depot. I'm fairly certain they aren't solid copper rather CCA (Cooper clad aluminum) which is garbage. It will work but can cause serious issues if running POE
I've had zero issues with any of my PoE connections. My Netgear WAX630 runs smooth as butter. And PoE cameras are sharp and clear. Maybe I just got lucky with the cable I bought. Also some of my cat6 is cat6a but not all of them. That's probably the only thing I would change is running all cat6a. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it. I have 80 plus networking videos so make sure to check them out!
Whats that black tool you used at @9:27 to push the wires into the CAT6 keystone connector? Are those usually included with those connectors? Would a flat heat work?
It's a punch down tool. It comes with all keystone jacks. Don't use a flat head it will break it. Feel free to ask me any questions I answer all comments. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Wall plate Not installed correctly, should of been properly screwed into a low voltage housing insert that should of been installed first into the drywall. Do the job correct and not like a shady ripoff contractor.
Take it easy. I installed the low voltage gang bracket 3 weeks after video posted. Here is the video
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching.
Im at the beginning, did you forget punch down tool for the wall plate? Or do they not require it ? 8:59 oh gotcha! 😂 you should use a wall bracket for those mount plates they make ones that connect securely to the drywall.
I did use the black punch down tool that comes with the wall jack plug. You can use an extension punch down tool but the plastic one works fine. I have both tools. I. Installed the low voltage gang bracket about 3 weeks later. Here's the video for that install.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Gotcha!!!! Lol!
Thank you for pointing that out and thank you for watching.
I have the same network box, what do you use to attach the equipment inside? I have an Orbi and will be adding a 4 port hub/switch.
You can use a sheet of plastic that's cut to fit inside the box. Simply drill holes in the plastic sheet where you want to attach your devices and attach them using velcro straps or zip ties. They also make brackets for these boxes. Here is the video link for that product.
th-cam.com/video/nytwwY_JR2s/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Keep me posted!
Good video, but instead of a bolt I use a fishing weight, heavier and smaller, now can I have a video of how to bring the wires up from the basement, please and thank you.
I used the bolt on a string method because that's kind of how I've always done it but there dozens of different ways to do the same thing. As for basement to first floor I can't show that because we don't have a basement. But running ethernet up the corner of the basement wall to the ceiling and drilling a hole from the ceiling to the first level floor show work well. Just use a stud finder to check for plumbing and electrical before drilling.
Can both ends of the interior ethernet cable terminate at a wall socket? So a cable from modem to socket, a cable through the walls from socket to socket, and then a final cable from socket to device.
Yes absolutely.
PRO TIP: You can get more done with two people!!
Better to drop from the attic crawlspace or go up from the 2” high floor dirt crawlspace ?
Is water a concern? Do you need to make a conduit run out of pvc ?
Attic crawl space is your best bet. You have more flexibility and options. Water is not a concern when dropping wires into walls. If there is water in your walls then you have a big problem! Conduit would be used for outdoors when running wires to a separate building. PVC pipe would work as conduit. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
cat6, no reason for 2 wires. with a 1gb switch, one wire is more than plenty for home use. you can split 2 pairs to form dual connection over 1 wire, but still not sure why you will need it if you put a small switch.
It's good to have a back up cable just incase of a cable failure.
I appreciate the video! I’m a new telecom apprentice in the union and I’ve been looking at your videos, I’m not the brightest so I need explanations I can go back over and look at. These videos are great! Keep it up.
Thank you for the nice comments and I'm glad my videos are helping you in your business. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Next time use a low voltage single gang bracket. Otherwise the video is a good instructional video.
I did 3 weeks later.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
What’s that little black plastic wrench looking thing that you used to clamp the wires into the keystone jack . I need that .
It's the punch down tool that comes with the keystone jack. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Can you do this if your attic has plywood floor over joists? Should I instead try to run the wiring thru the crawl space?
I would try to run it the easiest way possible. You can drill through the plywood into the joists to run the ethernet. Maybe try doing one ethernet run that way and see how it goes first. Then determine if its better to run through the crawl space. Keep me posted!
While cat 5e is cheaper, its not cheaper by much and its better to get the higher end stuff now so you don't have to rerun things later.
I never recommend cat5e anymore. Cat6 is the way to go. Thank you for watching.
How da fudge sickle pop did you drill into the drywall and know the wires you dropped were there? I feel like I would be drilling holes everywhere to find em
Lol! I've wire dropped so many network cables I just know where it will end up in the wall. And I also measure where I drill the hole in the attic and then measure the exact distance at the bottom of the wall and that usually works perfectly. I just uploaded a new cat6 cable run video so make sure to check it out! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it!
Great Video, but do me a huge favor please please get a proper punch down tool lol, and a cut in ring would be much easier to mount your plate.
Thanks for watching! I added the low voltage gang wallpaper a few weeks later. Here is the video
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Why do all the Amarican roofings have that much unused space on the tops
We Americans usually use Attic space for extra storage or to hide from our wives! Lol!
When working as an installer we always pull a quad. Cost us negligible and you can pull all 4 at the same time.
I agree with pulling 4 for sure. I just wanted to show multiple ethernet drops and 2 seemed like what most people would want in the home. For me, more ethernet is more better!! Lol.
Thank you for watching.
Might as well use Cat 6a. Future proof your job. Why do it twice?
Yes half of my house is Cat6a and cat6. Lucky that all of my cat6 is free floating in the walls so pulling Cat6a to replace the cat6 will be easy. Thanks for the great coments.
If punchdowned correctly it should automatically trim the excess wire on the walljack
Yes with a regular punch down tool but this is the cheap plastic tool that comes with the wall jack. There is no sharp blade on the end of the tool. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it .
Wouldn't it be easier to come from the basement?
Maybe, if I had a basement. It really depends on your home was built.
+1 for a single gang low voltage bracket. It's cheap. Don't cut corners.
I added the gang wall plate 3 weeks later. Here is the video I did on the installation.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
BUT, what about walls with fire stops in them? How do you get past the fire stop?
They make a very long drill bit that can reach the firestop so you can drop the wire through it. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Do you have a video in which you installed the network box into the wall?
I'm sorry I do not. Maybe in the future. Thank you for watching!
Great for single story or only going down one floor but how to handle two story drops?
Very tricky and it will require cutting some holes in the drywall. I will make a video on this subject soon. It's way too much information for me to explain in the comment section.
I understand it’s low volt but why didn’t you just install a single gang cut in😂
I did install one about 3 weeks later. Here's the video link. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Naw man... that's not how you install a keystone wall plate, use a low voltage bracket
Lol. I installed a low voltage bracket 3 weeks later. Here is the video on the installation.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Okay but how am I going to get the cable for my basement two stories up to my attic?
Drill a hole from the basement up, and attic down in the same stud cavity.
That raptor joke was terrible, but the rest of the video was great!
Lol! Thanks for watching!
Get your kid a real chair man his 40yr old back will thank you...
Lol! Right! It was only temporary he now has a high end gaming chair! And his computer is in a different room! Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
Lucky. I have cellulose insulation. So i had to use glowrods.
Glowrods work great. Thank you for watching.
What about encountering horizontal fire blocks midway between the stud wall cavities? Many walls won’t have a straight-to-bottom clear run?
That can happen but its pretty rare in interior walls. Walls facing the outside tend to have the fire blocks. They make very long drill bit extenders that can be used to drill through the fire block from above. Thanks for watching and for commenting!
As UTH says, they make long extenders. I also have a 5 foot long installers auger bit for these cross brace situations. Even with a successful penetration of the fire stop, it can still be challenging to fish down the small hole. So, what I have done is drilled a second hole up in the attic, basically right next to the first one. This allows a small flashlight to shine down into the stud cavity so I see the hole I made with the 5 fools long bit. Then a more rigid fish tape or fibreglass fish sticks will easily go down into the other hole up in the attic. The fish sticks are real nice because they glow in the dark, and they screw together in 5 foot lengths.
@@UltimateTechHub Not in Australia almost all walls have plates halfway down, pain in the butt ..
Don't you have horizontal noggins in stud walls in north america?
Do you mean fire blocks? Yes, we have them mostly in external facing walls. Internal walls usually do not have fire blocks but sometimes they do which really depends on the builder.. I've run into that problem in one of my older homes but my new home doesn't have them in the inside walls. Thank you for watching.
Better to just use 1-Gang Low-Voltage Old Work Bracket...
I did about 3 weeks later. Here's the video.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Why wouldn’t you just use a low voltage ring?
I did about 3 weeks later. I explained in a separate video that I didn't want to drive 14 miles to pick up low voltage bracket so made do with what I had. I installed the ring 3 weeks later once I made the journey to Home Depot! Thanks for watching!
Very informative. I think I’d get up in the attic and not know where my wall is. Also if I found the wall I probably wouldn’t know where to drill for them once I got back downstairs. 😅
It takes quite a bit of preparation and planning. I measured several times inside my house to determine where the correct wall drop location was. I would recommend doing this in the winter or fall. The attic got too hot. Thank you for watching and for commenting!
I ran ethernet cables in my previous home. (Current home has low roof and hard to get around; would like to run some here but would have to just about crawl on my belly) I found a good way to see where to drill in the attic is to determine what part of the wall you want the cable to come down, then get a heavy piece of wire about a foot long and push it through the ceiling drywall only about an inch away from the wall. Then go up to the attic and look for the wire sticking up. Then drill your hole 2-3 inches over from the wire through the faceplate.
@@scottwski that's a good way to do it. In my situation it would have an issue with wire because the ceiling had a kick out that might have prevented the wire from going up. Just be careful in the attic and take your time. Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well.
Hi there. I apologize in advance if this is covered in the video and I missed it, or in the comments, but I was curious about the network panel. I'm referring to the big white cabinet that is encased in the wall. For some reason, googling these terms doesn't give me anything remotely close to this. Is this how it's called? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
It's called a network panel or network enclosure or network box. They have them on Amazon. Hope this helps. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub thank you!
Thank you so much for your invaluable information, highly appreciate it, keep it up the outstanding job, have a great day.
Thank you for watching and if you subscribed thank you as well. Have a great day!
Use a 2" hole saw instead of the sheetrock saw...much bettah.
Yep but all I had was the drywall saw. Great idea though. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
When buying keystones and wall plates its a good idea to make sure they are the same brand. Although they should be universal, mixing brands doesn't always work well, and the keystones will pop out of the plate when you're plugging something in.
True that could happen but I've never come across that issue. Thanks for the great information and thanks for watching!
5e and 6? What is this? 2010? Dude I have cat8 ran ;)
Dude thats awesome to have cat8! Congrats! I have about half of my house on Cat6a which is 10gig. Thank you for watching! 😃
Is there supposed to be fire blocking around the cables? Or something to seal the hole in the attic?
No fireblock around the cables. Some walls have fireblocks but this wall did not have one. The hole in the attic was only big enough for the 2 wires so it's not an issue. Thank you for watching.
@@UltimateTechHub thanks for the reply
The problem I have run into is the “Fire Blocks” between the studs. Some are smaller than the wall studs, which makes it easy to get the wires down the wall. But, when they are the same size, it not a fun or enjoyable to drill through them. Or, need to move the wall plates to a different location which changes everything.
Yes fireblocks are annoying. Most inside walls don't have them. But some builders add them in random areas. My house has very few fireblocks and most are on the outside facing walls. Use a simple stud finder to locate the fireblocks. They do make a very long drill bit for these situations. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I really want to get ethernet added to my whole home but I would take at least the top floor. Problem I have is the bottom AND top floor have vaulted ceilings, any advice?
It depends where your ISP connection comes into your home. If its a central location you can run the Ethernet along the baseboards and then drill a hole to the next room and run the cables through the holes. Make sure the ethernet color is the same as the baseboards. Each room should get a 5 port switch so you can plug an ethernet cable in to run to the next room. Its like tethering the cables. This is probably the best option.
@@UltimateTechHub The broadband cable comes in at the top floor so its in one of the rooms Im talking about. That is a good idea! I do have one room torn apart down to the baseboards for a remodel.
here in texas it will be 100 103 out and its i swear like 125 in the attic
Yes you have humidity and that's even worse. Las Vegas is a dry heat but still very hot!
I hate going in the attic. I’ll just pay for someone to do it…
Exactly! If you are not comfortable going in your attic just hire someone. Don't be a hero!! Lol.
Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
I have been scared of walking around every since I stopped crawling.
I’m in apartment. My router only had 2 cables, the power cable, and a coaxial cable. Ik the coaxial cable connects to a modem but what does the modem do. Does it allow me to use the LAN ports on my walls in other rooms?
The LAN ports from the other rooms need to connect to the router.
The modem's job is to connect your network to your provider's network. Are you 100% sure its just a modem? Most ISP equipment nowadays is a combination of a modem and router and wifi access point in one unit. Does your modem have 4 ethernet ports on the back? if so, its a combo unit.
I would have used an "old" work j box. Just say'n.
I used a Low Voltage Gang bracket. I installed 3 weeks after the video posted. Here is the video.
th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching and for commenting.
Our viewers requested this video so we hope you enjoy it! This is "How to Wire Drop Cat6 cables using the Old School Method" that works great! This Ethernet wire drop installation is by far the Best and Cheapest method to drop Cat6 or Cat5e wires into any room! This wire drop cost about $100 dollars in supplies. Any questions or suggestions feel free to comment below. Thank you for watching!
@M Maama I would recommend a central location where in the center of the hosue. Like a coat closet or laundry room or a closet in a bedroom. Even in a kitchen pantry. Having it centrally located keeps your ethernet runs shorter . Without an attic you can run cables inside the walls but it is more work. Good luck and keep me posted.
What would you say a full job like this is worth?
@@darielgonzalez1006 Probably 175 or 200. That's with the cat6 included.
Try quick and easy in 10k sq.ft home, lol
That's maasive!! Wow!!
that was an easy one. try one with spray foam insulation and 2x4's going horizontally midway down the wall for whatever reason
That sounds a bit more difficult. I guess I got lucky. Lol! Thank you for watching!
@@UltimateTechHub yea those are the ones where you really try to talk the customer into wifi.. lol. Rock face is another pain in the butt.
I am Belkin Certified in the 90s. Had several tools like Cross Bows and remote control cars that we used to run guide wires.
Wth, how do you find where to drop the wire?
Just did some pre-measuring and I've wire dropped a ton of wires in my house so I know my walls very well. Also, got a little lucky but you know the ole saying...better to be lucky than good! lol! Thanks for watching! 😄😉
@@UltimateTechHub haha, appreciate the input. Thinking about doing this but don’t want to tear through wrong walls. The house uses Coax instead of RJ45. Just found out you can convert coax to RJ and still run 1mbs up and down.
My attic is finished so... this isn't quite an option. lol
Haha, its nice to have a finished attic! I wish my attic was finished but there isn't much space as you can see! Thanks for watching and checkout my newest video its on Cat6 cable runs and low voltage gang box installs! Have a great day!
dude you are missing all the bricks in your house
No bricks in Las Vegas!!!
Haha. The video is titled wall fishing but that section was like 5 seconds and that wall must be the easiest drop. I've never been able to just push wire thru a hole and have it get to the destination with all the obstacles like metal plates, insulation, studs, etc.
Why didn't you use a LV1 to screw the plate too
I installed it weeks after the video posted. Here is the video on the install. th-cam.com/video/4CUyU_v2qS0/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for watching!
in the UK our houses are brick and heavily insulated. ain't no way we could do it this way here haha!
I've heard this from my awesome UK subscribers. Brick walls make dropping any wires near impossible. Thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub great content tho bud
Pro Tips. #1. Cut horizontally first so if by chance you hit a stud, you can cut the rest of the length in the opposite direction of the stud.
#2 Always use pull string with your runs in case you need to add lines in the future.
I did pull string but the string dropped through the hole accidentally....Lol. I do have 2 cables so on can act as the string. Thanks for the 2 pro tips and thank you for watching I really appreciate it.
@@UltimateTechHub thanks. Any time!
@@UltimateTechHub if you ever get in a real pinch, you can power two devices with 1 cable (2 pairs-white orange, orange, white green, green) for one device and the last pairs (blue, white blue, white brown, brown) for the second device. Just wire the 2 RJ45s at each end of the 1 line as if your only using white orange, orange, white green, green and put them where you normally would, skipping all the missing pairs.
@@shawnphillips1220 Thanks for the tip!!!
your walls have no fire block in them?
The inside walls do not have fireblocks. The outside facing walls have fireblocks. Thank you for watching.