Riding the Electric KLS250 | This LiPo Battery Can't Handle the POWER
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ก.ย. 2024
- Taking the Electric KLS250sf on a test ride.. but the 20Ah battery makes it a short one.
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I have a 96530 fardriver that I did a tear down on last week and was very surprised to see how the electronics are designed and packaged. Way less stuff than I was expecting. The mosfets are on a aluminum pcb that is mated to the aluminum slab. From that it’s just a few stacked boards and completely potted. I need to replace 5 of the Alpha and Omega mosfets. From what I have found they are new and not very available yet but might have located them 75$ for 5.
Not sure if it’s worth the risk vs just getting a new controller.
But impressive design with the fardriver
Please do a video ?? no one yet
i see the siaecosys logo on the new motor. I bought my qs273 50h from them directly. (brown website, not the white one) and my motor has been rock solid. i heard mixed results about the brown website but i love em..
yeah so far so good with Siaecosys Official Store
Nice video, glad that you got to ride it! I've been building a bike over the last year and saw your video about the lipo battery pack. I was going to go down that route and build a similar pack. Would you now advise against the lipo?
yeah I wouldn't use lipo for this - I only did because I already had the pack and was too lazy to build a new one. worst part with lipo is the cycle life is short - you pay a bunch of money for the cells only to lose 20% capacity after 800 cycles, probably less. then there's the whole explody thing
Nice build! But what about me1507? Is it going to another project?
Thanks! Yeah, that was supposed to be for a GSXR conversion but I've since rebuilt this bike (will post a video soon) so the me1507 project is in the backlog
Cool! What controller are you using?
ND96530 fardiver
You should relocate your controller
does the controler do regentive brakeing?
yes
what size controller?
this is the ND96530 - I've since switched to the ND84530
@@GaiusGarageND 84530 they sell them at wally world too now for just over 3 bills ? that is the one I am going to try to get too it will have one for each wheel hub motor ! making a hyper scooter soon from scratch . totally a diffrent design all around! 24s 18p . could be ok? I just dont know how to get 550 amp it wants ? do you think 320amps is enough using L.G. m50lt cells? can you help? I hope it works great for you ! please keep us informed !
@@Vmaxfodder the ND84530 draws 250A on the line (530 is phase amps). if you have two you will need your battery pack to support 500A on the line. so whatever peak current those cells are capable of supporting, that number multiplied by 18 should be 500 or more
@GaiusGarage thank you sir ! It tells me I need the Samsung 50s cells 35amp discharge. I'm going to run 24s 9p in 2 separate battery packs then . I still don't get how other scooter mfg. Get 5000watt from 75amps controllers? But the ND84530 needs 250? Something is not adding up ? Thanks for the help
@@Vmaxfodder if you run 75A at 72V, for example that's 5400W. two 9p packs in parallel with 35A cells will give you 630A peak so you should be good there. or you can connect each pack to each controller. 84530 runs 250A line current, 530A phase current. the phase current is sinosoidal AC so you're measuring RMS current not DC.
Hello, your video is great, thank you very much. I have a question, which do you think is better in terms of energy efficiency, the central qs motor or the hub-in-wheel qs motor? I am interested in doing more kilometers per Amperes
More effective will be central motor and more comfortable. But in use you don't need chain, and have more space for big battery and have silent
you should be able to fit 60ah in that frame, nice build.
yeah for sure. I just got lazy and threw in a battery pack I already had sitting around
Bro, what is the maximum km speed?
The thing with lipos that I never understood is they are capable of 300-500 amps but the wires that they come with are way too small for the power it can produce and they always come with xt90 connectors which is even worse. I feel like they should've at least come with 4awg wires or 8awg wires in pairs or even triples connected to a beefy connector like the QS8 or QS10 .
But the easily explody element in it is what pushes people away from it nowadays.
If you're looking to build something similar , I'd recommend the block style lifepo4 cells. They are getting quite popular , literally impossible to explode (even if they do , it's not the burn your house down kinda fire) and are simply connected using bus bars. Lower voltage yes but it's efficient compared to the 18650s/21700s or other cylinder type cells which require a ton of work .
yeah the wires on those lipo packs are definitely lacking. but on the other hand the length of wire is very short so even at high current like 500A, a 10 gauge wire that's only 2-4 inches long might experience a voltage drop of just a fraction of a percent. so the wires are sufficient for short burst (as long as they truly are bursts and not repeated bursts at short intervals) but the XT90 connectors are definitely a bottleneck.
The thing with LiFePo4 is the energy density is not great. Battery ends up having to be huge for the same Wh. Lipo is definitely not a good choice for anything that needs to last a long time, but Li-ion is the go-to when possible IMO
Lifepo4 post to pull more power
I was thinking doing something exactly like this, because electric motorcycles are wayy to expensive, like starting at 30 000$ Canadian for a bike with acceptable range
was the issue regarding the temperature probe resolved? Or you are still using setting 3 - KTY84-130 instead of setting 5 - KTY83-122.
Thanks and awesome video!!
Thank you! I actually had to get a new controller as well and ordered one from a different Aliexpress store. The new controller and motor pair didn't have this issue and I am able to select the correct temp sensor (it was actually pre-selected after running auto learn)
@@GaiusGarage Thanks for the fast reply. So in short yes you did select option 5 - KTY83-122. I am asking you this question as I have the same motor and controller as yours and mine is selected to option 3 - KTY84 - 130. However the temperature of the motor seems to be OK.
@@rbug4117 yes, KTY83-122 is the one I'm using now. I believe that's the correct one. KYT84-130 is another temp sensor but I think the value is very similar with a small error. If your motor temp is relatively normal, I'd say KYT84-130 will work. In my case the motor was overheating due to bad phase wire crimping so either temp sensor would've show that
I just ordered the 138 V3 90H…do you think this motor can handle 40kw bursts? I’m planning a massive molicel pack build, pairing the motor with the ND96850. Have you been happy with the fardriver controller?
honestly I wouldn't go with Fardriver again - check out some of the other videos I posted about issues I've had with this build. it was mostly due to bad crimps on the phase wires but the Fardriver app kinda sucks & tuning the controller is difficult because certain values in the app can't be changed due to bugs. Other than that it runs I guess. Im not sure about 40kW bursts - probably ok as long as you monitor the motor temp but you're looking to push that much power you might wanna go with the liquid cooled version
Thankyou for the video. What is the name of the bike helmet you are wearing .
Its an HJC but I dont remember the model. Really nice helmet tho - relatively light
what's the controller you are using?
this is the fardriver ND96530
Can this motor fit into a sur ron?
no, it's definitely too big unless you really start chopping at the frame
Such a cool machine!
Did you remove the enamel on the phase wires and crimp on new connectors for this new motor?
I didn't do it myself but did confirm that they the lug were crimped on cleaned copper. I didn't cut the phase wires for this one so no issues