Excellent video!...You took your time to explain thoroughly on how to use this machine..The “Burr” is critical and it takes a couple of tries to get the “Feel” for it. Once that has been learned, the rest is fairly easy...Thanks for your patience while educating the rest of us...
A tip for your nicer knives. Put tape on the flat of the blade where it contacts the guide or the grit will eventually leave long scratches on the knife.
@@tweakrr99 Yeah, it's grit from the belt being rubbed between the blade and the guides. If it's a quick little job a wipe of the guides every couple of passes helps as well.
Just a side note - ALL of the European style knives (Classic, Ikon, GP, etc.) have a 28 degree sharpening angle. I would’ve assumed something more like 17-20, but luckily most manufacturers post the angle info nowadays. I was trying to sharpen a Classic at 20 degrees and not getting a burr - until I searched and realized why! If you have a knife that you cant find angle info on, you can hit the edge with a Sharpie and see where it’s removed (or not) and adjust angle accordingly. Hope that helps, thanks for the great video!
The wife just got me one for Christmas and I spent the first part of the day sharpening all the knives in the house. Just because, I had to start with my Kershaw Blur, as it's a Ken Onion design. Next, I did my 8" Ken Onion Rain Series chef knife and WOW! It brought it back to better than brand new. Next I did my Shun 8" classic, my Shun 8" Sora, my 8" Wusthof, a serbian chefs knife, all my paring knives, and a Henkel and Victorinox filet knife. Super easy to learn how to use (everyone should follow the techniques in this video). I have friends who've been using the original Work Sharp for years and it's still going strong. I'll be ordering the leather stroping belt after this is posted. Thanks for the great video.
Nice! Enjoy it. I’ve gotten to the point where whenever I go to a friends place I’ll casually inspect the state of their kitchen knives and then offer sharpening services as necessary. 😂
I have owned a set of classic Wustoff chefs knives that cost me $300 way back in 1996. I keep them sharp, but I never really attained that like new factory edge. I just paid for the Ken Onion ELITE BUNDLE Work Sharp AND a full set of 1" Low deflection belts for my EDC Wharnclife CPM 158 and D2 steel knives. I can re profile my EDC down to 10 degrees which ought to be interesting.
Thank you for making this video. I own one of these and watched several videos on them none of which are as good as yours. I’ve learned a lot from your video and picked up several good tips. I’ve read through all the comments and questions and learned a lot from the answers and advice you gave. This is an excellent video.
@@AGuThing Oh, I see. Thank you for the great info on the Work Sharp electric products! I have the newest guided Elite system that I'll be reviewing soon along with alot of other products. I'm just starting my channel so there is no content YET 😉 its called Bright Lights EDC! Coming soon to a theater near you, lol!😂🤣
I own a nearly full set of the Wusthof classic Ikon knives! Thank you for posting this video and helping to give me some motivation and confidence that this can be done with my new Work Sharp KO sharpener. I’m now subscribed for more great content!
If you are on both the angle guide and the edge guides you will not be pushing down hard as both provide hard stops for the blade to travel in. Also, doing the same number of strokes on each side doesn’t make sense as you could form the burr with one or two strokes. Not every maker hits the centerline of the steel when making their blades. Just check out most knives from CRKT.
I didnt see any hairline scratches along the side of the knife above the cutting edge. Were there any? Some complained about that with the Work Sharp's and the Chef's Choice electric. I wondered if/when there were scratches it wasn't "human error". My only CON is it puts a convex bevel on the knives. If the knife didn't originally have a convex grind some people might not want to change the bevel profile. though a convex is actually better in that it would cut through items easier then one with a visible 2ndary bevel. Will this belt-grinder always create convex edges?
I haven’t had any issues with hairline scratches on chefs knives or full flat ground pocket knives. I have however gotten some scratches on saber ground knives due to the thicker spine. The convex edge for me was actually a pro and a selling point. I prefer a convex micro bevel. I tend to get some convexing hand sharpening on a stone too. But yeah, if you do not want a convex edge, this is not for you. No way to avoid it with the work sharp.
So when sharpening the right side of the sharpener the belt is moving away but when sharpening on the left, the belt is moving into the blade? Is that ok for the knife? You’d think the belt would just get cut riding into the blade like that.
That concerned me at first too but haven’t had any issues. I’ve also looked at both sides of the edge under a microscope and you can’t tell the difference. If you think about it, even sharpening on a stone, some techniques call for edge trailing strokes, and others call for edge leading.
I must be doing something wrong. My Oneida chefs knife is (according to the info from Oneida) to be sharpened at 20 degrees. Tried it on the Worksharp, (made sure of the angle, 5 strokes on both sides, medium grit just to touch it up a bit) it came out duller than it was before. Had to really work on the manual wetstones (yes, 20 degrees) to get it sharp again. Probably will have to practice a LOT and ruin a lot of cheap knives to get it to work for me, but that seems to rather defeat the purpose. Wetstone takes longer (in this case MUCH longer) but at least I can use it again
The first time using any knife on the worksharp, even if using the same angle it was originally sharpened to, will take more than 5 strokes on each side. The reason being you are going from a V edge to a convex edge. Don’t alternate sides. Sharpen one side until you feel the burr form along the opposite side (will probably take 8-12 passes the first time), switch to the other side for the same number of passes. At this point you should now feel a distinct burr on the first side. Switch to a finer belt and then alternate sides for 8-12 passes (4-6 each side), and it should be pretty damned sharp.
@@rjvanloon4769 Definitely a good idea to practice on cheaper knives first! However I’d recommend a cheap carbon steel knife like this one amzn.to/3t31YD6 over a cheap stainless steel knife. Even the cheap carbon steel knives will readily take a razor sharp edge where some of the cheap stainless steel knives will never get to that point no matter how much you sharpen them.
I have this system with the blade grinding attachment and have fixed 2 pocket knives on it and have sharpened 3 pocket knives with my brothers kitchen set so far definitely use a beater knife on the first go just need to be careful because I nearly overheated an old beater the first time but the rest are fine. Good job on the sharpness on that wustof I got our less expensive chefs knife the same sort of sharpness yesterday on the grinding attachment it’s so much better to use
@@AGuThing You definitely should get it it’s a great investment to an already amazing system. Ah you’re welcome you’ve got a nice chefs knife by the way ☺️
Are they doing that? I paid for mine! Lol. They last quite a while. I haven’t kept track exactly but I’ve definitely sharpened over 2 dozen knives on the original set and they still look good.
Sonora108 Awesome for edc folding knife. I go through all the grits the first time around to reprofile, after that literally 8 total passes, alternating sides, on the fine belt once a week keeps it razor sharp.
Lol. Not dumb at all. I was a little concerned about this at first too but haven’t had any issues. Even under magnification, you don’t see any difference.
This sharpener looks like it will get the job done. However I have my eye on the tormek. Keeps blade cool so I wont have to worry about the temper.. Good video. Only thing I wouldnt like is doing the leather and trying to do the 2nd side on that thing.
mark mills Yeah... for kitchen knives I’ve just been hand stropping on a leather strop mounted on a wood block. For pocket knives it’s a lot more manageable and I still use the leather belt on the work sharp. Couple of quick passes on just the leather really extends the time between full sharpenings on my EDC.
Do you strop after sharpening? That is often times the difference between being able to push cut and not. If you don’t have a leather strop and polishing compound you can actually get a pretty good result using a newspaper or magazine.
Modern Wusthofs are around 14 degrees. This one is close to 30 years old. Back then they were sharpened to 20 degrees. It wasn’t until Japanese chefs knifes became tremendously popular that western manufacturers started using harder steels and steeper angles. The steel on this knife is not hard enough to sustain anything more acute than 18 on each side and for the work this knife is generally used for, longevity of the edge is more important to me than a few degrees of extra sharpness.
I purchased it from eBay. However I will say that after using it for a while, I now prefer using a traditional wood block mounted leather strip over the leather belt on the work sharp. It offers more control and consistency.
Work Sharp no longer makes a genuine leather belt. They’ve gone over to a pair of fabric material belts with two different grits (red and green) for fine and finer polishing.
Place a tomato with a flattened surface on the table and try to cut it without holding it and see if your knife will slice through it. Tomato skin offers resistance paper does not and is a better test for sharpness. Also, take a piece of copy paper, fold in half, stand it up. Without holding the paper see if the knife will cut down the fold. If it can cut that without buckling the paper, that is SHARP.
My KO sharpener just arrived ...... thanks for the video as I hope to get my knives that sharp ....... or ruin them ........ either way; they are visiting the sharpener this weekend
Ron Hall Good luck! Follow the directions and you should have razor sharp edges in no time. Don’t rush it, but don’t go too slow either, you don’t want to overheat the edge - a mistake I’ve made. Still gets hair shaving sharp but the edge gets dull very quickly if overheated.
Nestta5252 There’s not enough clearance on the other side with a chefs knife. At that angle the handle of the work sharp is in the way. I’ll admit it looks precarious in the video but I felt in full control while doing it. I’d recommend moving the work sharp around and finding what’s most comfortable for you.
The One Yup, depends on the knifes steel and intended application. For example, VG10 Japanese chefs knife I’ll sharpen at 15 degrees per side where as I’d do a camp machete at 22 degrees.
The One there are some general guidelines but no fixed rules. If you told me what kind of knife it is and what will you be using it for I may be able to give a more specific recommendation. General guidelines I used would be: German steel kitchen knives typically 18-20, Japanese kitchen knives ~15, pocket knives ~20, knives or tools for chopping ~22-24.
The One Would you know what kind of steel they are made from or what brand they are? For example for an 8” chefs knife if it was a cheaper Cuisinart knife made from 440 steel I’d sharpen at 20 degrees but a Shun made from VG10 I’d sharpen at 15. The cheaper steel isn’t hard enough to maintain that keen of an edge.
Picked mine up today but mine came with a 6000 grit polishing belt instead of the leather belt. I think the polishing belt is a lot better idea then the leather because you can go against the grain using the guide instead of free handing it with the leather.. That did not look comfortable
zleggitt1989 Is the 6000 grit belt you got the full width one or the skinnier one? I got the skinnier one and just can’t seem to get a good result with it. Either way, regardless of how high a grit you go, I always recommend finishing with a strop. Go with a regular wood block leather strop if you’re more comfortable with that than the belt on the work sharp. Stropping serves a different purpose and will still improve an edge on a blade that I put a mirror finish on with a 10k water stone.
Either would be totally fine. I’ve used, white, green, blue and even a few diamond pastes going as low as .25 microns. You cut a little bit ore of a mirror finish on the very edge with the diamond pastes but to be honest, I couldn’t tell a difference in cutting performance and edge retention.
Should I spend my money on this one or go with a similar style for a hundred dollars less??? For performance and quality I would pay the extra money because I have a leather strap for my carving knife but can’t get an edge to even cut soft butter!!!!! And I stroped it like twenty times per side and my results are terrible and I followed the instructions word for word..... I would be the best person to try this and I would give a great review if it worked and I am that person that reads front to back of manual!!! Being on disability and getting 672$ a month to live on I would pay for a razor sharp edge!!!! But if I didn’t get good results I would say so and why....but I know I would never be sent a free one but watching this video is changing my mind and I don’t buy this equipment for just personal use and I would use it to help the elderly people in my building for free!!!! I guess I can dream!!!!! I want to try this model because all your videos have me blown away from what I see...... God bless you all and keep safe!!!
Which other ones are you considering? Between the Ken Onion and the regular worksharp I would say the Ken Onion is well worth the extra money, for me at least. I have many different knives that I sharpen to different angles. If you just have a few knives you’re ok with them all being sharpened to the same angle (I forgot what angle the WS is) than that’s probably fine for you. Stropping alone won’t do much of the edge is already dull. If you’re on a budget, you could look into getting a cheaper water stone like a King double sided and learning how to sharpen with a stone. Once you get the hang of it, you can actually get a better edge than with any machine.
Just got mine last night. I sharpened 4 blades but none of them can cut paper. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying a lot of sharpening bands for this system
There’s definitely a learning curve. If you post a video of what you are doing I’d be happy to take a look and see if I can identify what adjustments you may need to make.
@@jamesgu4417 Nah. I'll just continue and learn by my mistakes. I have Japanese water stones just in case. I also ordered some leather stroping bands. Those should help
Many thanks for this video. I know I'm a little late, but as others have said yours is the best one for the Ken O. edition. What a great channel I'm subbed and will be back for some cooking advice. I'm also looking at the Spydy Para 3 but for now I do carry a Spyderco Chaparral for my EDC. I have decided to get one of these sharpeners, mostly for my kitchen knives, and mostly due to your review. But I have one question. I don't see the leather strop being available anywhere. The replacement belts are available at source, but not the strop. Is the strop from a different supplier? Any advice would be most welcome sir. Thank you. Have a great day.
Really appreciate your feedback and support! My para 3 lightweight and benchmade bugout are the 2 that make it into my EDC rotation the most often. Here’s a link to the strop in the video. amzn.to/2SAX7L3 You may need to stretch it slightly to get it on the first time. To be honest though, I don’t really use it anymore. While it takes a little longer I’ve found it’s easier to use a wood mounted leather strop and the results are just as good.
@@AGuThing Thank you so much for your swift response. The link is a big help, and for the price I think I will at least give it a try. Re-watching the above video convinces me that this is the proper tool for my needs. I have a local kitchen store that has "a guy" who sharpens knives, but it means I go without my knives for a week or 10 days. I also enjoyed the time lapse sunrise video, and you've now got me thinking about a coffee and chili rubbed New York strip as well. Stay well. Until next time, Cheers!
@@scuffmacgillicutty7509 Nice! It really does a great job. One thing to be careful of though, make sure you don’t move to slowly and overheat the edge, it can ruin the temper of the steel at the edge and make it prone to chipping. Better off making additional passes rather than moving slower on each pass. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any additional questions. If you end up trying the coffee rub, I’d love to hear what you think!
A lot! Still using the original belts after using them dozens of times. Haven’t kept track but I’d say at least 30 sharpenings. Maybe not as aggressive as the beginning but still very much adequate.
That’s correct. That’s the only way to use this machine, scratched my head at that a little too when I first got it but haven’t noticed any differences or detriment from it.
heavy1metal That sucks! How much does it rub? Would stretching it out a bit help? Mine actually doesn’t rub on the plastic. Just barely clears it. The black stripe is from the polishing paste removing metal.
There isn’t one. Side will be edge leading and the other side is edge trailing. I was concerned at first too but after using it and studying the edge under magnification, there was no discernible difference visually or in use.
I didn't notice any scratches on the side of the knife. Were there any? I ask because other users have complained about that. I wondered if it wasn't their own fault. Maybe you could do a follow-up video. With close-up shots of your finished blades? How long have you had it? Used it a lot??
I’ve used it quite a bit over the last year. I’ve never had issues with scratches on chefs knives and thinner pocket knives. I do get scratches on thicker spined pocket knives and hunting knives. What I noticed is it if you don’t keep the guides clean, loose grit builds up on the guides and that will badly scratch up the knife.
Anderson C I would recommend this product. I’ve been very happy with it. One other thing to be careful of though is pulling too slowly and letting the edge heat up to much. It can ruin the heat treat and the very edge becomes brittle and prone to chipping.
@@AGuThing due to your video, I actually bought a KO rather than the smaller model. Still exploring my way around it, but was pleased when I tested it with a CN200L will try it with a maximit next time.
Brian Conley It wouldn’t quickly mess up the knife but over time, inconsistent pressure or draw speed would lead to an uneven or wavy edge. I’d recommend using just enough pressure to keep the blade against the guide and letting the weight of the knife do the work. Careful to not pull the tip past the belt while it’s still moving.
i want to. buy this. however i have come to know voltage required is 110. it will not work or the loose warranty if i use 220 with an adapter as well. has anyone used this with an adapter.
@@AGuThing I just watched another movie with Morgan Freeman in it: "Hitman's Wife's Bodyguard". He delivers a convincing portrayal in every movie he takes.
I saw this once before... *does it not matter that the belt travels UP one side of the knife and travels DOWN the other side of the knife? -Is it possible to pull the knife through the same side but in the opposite direction? (Does it still work if you spin the machine around?). Or can you only pull in one direction?
Texas Mann You can pull through on the same side but in the opposite direction. However for me at least, it felt cumbersome and I wasn’t getting consistent strokes and so didn’t get as good a result. Could probably get better at it with practice but after examining the edges under magnification I couldn’t tell a difference between the up side and the down side so am just sticking with using it the way shown in the video.
I have same question. It seems counter intuitive to let the belt run up against the edge, will the edge not bite into the belt and risk cutting the belt? I have used a rotating disc sharpening method in the past and rotation against the edge of the knife would ruin de disc. I always had to sharpen away from the edge
Depending on how dull I may even start with coarse, check for the burr every swipe or 2, move to the other side as soon as you feel any burr then move to the medium belt as soon as you feel any burr on the 2nd side.
How often do you have to sharpen your chefs knife? I just bought the ken onion unit and of course used it wrong the first time it looks like. I just locked it on low speed run and pulled the knives through. Also, do you have a link to the leather strop you use?
It really depends on the knife steel and how often it’s used. The Wusthof in the video get sharpened probably every 6 weeks. It’s used almost daily for chopping vegetables, meat, deboning chickens etc. My Miyabi SG2 santoku that is only used for vegetables and boneless meat only needs sharpening every 6 months or so. Here is the strop: amzn.to/3rMm3ff
Yes it does work. Learning curve as in in takes a little practice to get consistent razor sharp results. I’d recommend practicing on a cheaper knife first so you don’t accidentally round the tip or remove to much material on your favorite knife
It would in that it can handle the higher hardness (I’ve sharpened S30V pocket knives with it) and the keener angle. However I wouldn’t recommend it for any high end Japanese knives until you’ve got some good practice in with cheaper knives. Japanese knives tend to have much thinner edges and tend to be more likely to chip. On an electric grinding belt, there’s a chance you can overheat the thin edge and ruin the temper of the steel making it even more likely to chip. Personally I only use this for my western kitchen knives and pocket knives and hand sharpen Japanese knives on water stones.
Michael Hooks Nope. When you strop it should be at a slightly steeper angle. The guide also wouldn’t allow you to edge trail on both sides, if you tried to strop with with the edge leading it would cut the leather.
Is your wife Chinese/Mandarin? :) Looks to be a good tool to consider as most of us don't want to spend the time to learn to use whetstones. I'm not sure I'd spend the time. My only CON is for some they want to keep the bevel. Using the belt will create a convex bevel...which really isn't a bad idea performance wise...will move through food easier than had it a bevel. Is it easy or hard to keep a bevel in your time with this tool? Not using the angle guide...Or have you found using a belt-grinder design you will inevitably end up creating a convex edge? And I am considering the Wusthof Classic IKON series of knives..How do you like the knives? What made you choose them over the Classic? Or the other lines Wusthof makes...
Anderson C My wife is Chinese... but that’s my mom that’s in the background. Lol. With any belt grinder you’ll always end up with a convex edge as there will always be a little slack in the belt. This was actually a selling point for me when considering the Work Sharp. I prefer a convex edge. Not only does it slice better, it maintain a workable edge for longer too. In terms of which set to get, I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but it truly does come down to how it feels in your hand. As long as it’s good quality steel with a good heat treat and Rockwell hardness appropriate for your intended use, how it feels will make a bigger difference than the brand or the line. For example, I end up grabbing my $45 Nexus nakiri way more often then my $300 Miyabi in SG2 because it’s more comfortable for the way I hold and cut. If possible I’d strongly recommend finding a store where you can at least hold them before buying or at the very least finding an online retailer that offered free returns.
The family is about to set down and eat. You get your knife out and start to cut the roast up. The knife is to doll to cut. Do you really want to go through all this? You go out to the garage to sharpen the knife. I can see the wife coming at me with an ax. And I don't think it is that she wants me to sharpen it also. The Trizon XV will do very near as good and save an argument with the old lady and maybe a divorce.
@@AGuThing I just bought that machine. But I find that the guides move a little when leaning knife on it and that makes it difficult to maintain a tru edge
@@Paultricounty I had the same issue at first but try using less pressure. Instead of pushing the knife against the guide just let it rest gently against it. That worked for me and has been giving me consistent, good results.
Thanks! I’m actually not, the belt is moving downwards on that side so the strop is edge trailing, moving away from the blade. That’s also why I’m flipping the blade to strop the other side rather than using the other side of the machine like with the grinding belts.
kope ducati You should only sharpen with an edge trailing stroke on water stones as the edge can cut into the softer medium but outside of that most techniques sharpen edge leading. Think spyderco sharpmaker, diamond stones etc.
"Here I am checking for a burr like an idiot on the wrong side" I was wondering why you were feeling it like that and then cracked up at the voice over
I've always been taught, and read, that when using a leather strop you always pull it across the surface rather than into the edge. The reasoning being that the leather isn't removing steel but polishing the edge. Seems like that would be the case with the KOWS as well. Also eliminates the risk of cutting the belt. Is there a reason why you ran it into the edge? I'm considering buying one of these so I'm watching as many videos on the subject as I can to learn about it. Thanks!
brandi wynter The side I was using, the belt is going down, towards the table, so they are edge trailing strokes, no risk of cutting the leather. When you strop it’s at a more acute angle than when sharpening. When you use polishing compound as I was doing here, in addition to polishing, it does remove metal. The goal here is to remove any remaining burr or wire edge.
@@AGuThing Thanks, I watched again. Dunno why I thought it was going the other way. Have you tried this sharpener with different steels? I'm curious if it works as well with "tougher" steels such as CPM S30v as it does with the more common steels such as AUS8.
brandi wynter I’ve sharpened a Benchmade Bugout in S30v. Easily brings it to a hair shaving edge but doesn’t retain the edge nearly as long as is typical with s30v. May have something to do with carbide tear out or overheating the very edge and affecting the heat treat. 2nd time around I only went up to a medium belt and left a slightly toothier edge, also dipped in ice water between each pass. then stropped by hand on a wood backed leather strop with .5 micron diamond paste. Not quite shaving sharp but could scrape the hair off my leg pretty smoothly. Edge lasted much much longer.
brandi wynter 1st time I watched it looked like the knife was running into the leather also. After I watched the second time I did see it running away from blade. Lol.
Anderson C While more adjustability would certainly be welcome, I wouldn’t recommend sharpening those high HRC Japanese steels with this anyway. They are chippy to begin with and with such a thin edge you can easily overheat it and ruin the temper with what’s essentially a mini power belt sander, making the edge even more prone to chipping. My SG2 knives are sharpened on water stones only.
@@AGuThing Keep in mind the belt creates a convex edge, which is tougher and less prone to chipping. I have all my kitchen blades now profiled to 15 and they are sharp enough for anything and hold it well.
@@AGuThing Yup, that's where the speed control is so great. I tend to run my finger down the side of the edge every few strokes and have never felt any real heat developing.
Steven Howe modern ones perhaps, this one is from about 18 years ago. Western chefs knives weren’t sharpened to such acute angles until relatively recently.
This is THEE BEST video on how to use the Ken Onion sharpener!!
Thanks bud!
Also watch the work sharp videos, they are pretty good.
Good job! I have watched a bunch of videos and you are the first person that seems like you actually read the user manual.
Thanks for the feedback!
I also use this same sharpener and it's refreshing to see someone using it correctly and explaining why you don't pull completely through. Good job!👍
Appreciate the feedback! Yeah, you can instantly round out a tip using this incorrectly.
Excellent video!...You took your time to explain thoroughly on how to use this machine..The “Burr” is critical and it takes a couple of tries to get the “Feel” for it. Once that has been learned, the rest is fairly easy...Thanks for your patience while educating the rest of us...
A tip for your nicer knives. Put tape on the flat of the blade where it contacts the guide or the grit will eventually leave long scratches on the knife.
Yes, definitely do this! I was shocked at how badly the plastic guides were able to scratch the steel blade face.
What exactly do you mean? Like put a tape along the part right above the sharp end?
Looking to get one of these and I do have nicer knives.
@@james6454 Yes, basically cover the length of the blade just leaving about a cm above the edge clear.
@@tweakrr99 Yeah, it's grit from the belt being rubbed between the blade and the guides. If it's a quick little job a wipe of the guides every couple of passes helps as well.
Amazing easy tip. I’d never had thought of that. Thank you 👍
It is so silent after the leather belt! Wow that's sharp. Good work and good video!
reviews and use for this thing are all over the map.
Just a side note - ALL of the European style knives (Classic, Ikon, GP, etc.) have a 28 degree sharpening angle. I would’ve assumed something more like 17-20, but luckily most manufacturers post the angle info nowadays. I was trying to sharpen a Classic at 20 degrees and not getting a burr - until I searched and realized why! If you have a knife that you cant find angle info on, you can hit the edge with a Sharpie and see where it’s removed (or not) and adjust angle accordingly. Hope that helps, thanks for the great video!
Great tip! Thanks for sharing
The wife just got me one for Christmas and I spent the first part of the day sharpening all the knives in the house. Just because, I had to start with my Kershaw Blur, as it's a Ken Onion design. Next, I did my 8" Ken Onion Rain Series chef knife and WOW! It brought it back to better than brand new. Next I did my Shun 8" classic, my Shun 8" Sora, my 8" Wusthof, a serbian chefs knife, all my paring knives, and a Henkel and Victorinox filet knife. Super easy to learn how to use (everyone should follow the techniques in this video). I have friends who've been using the original Work Sharp for years and it's still going strong. I'll be ordering the leather stroping belt after this is posted. Thanks for the great video.
Nice! Enjoy it. I’ve gotten to the point where whenever I go to a friends place I’ll casually inspect the state of their kitchen knives and then offer sharpening services as necessary. 😂
@@AGuThing lol. Just did the same thing tonight. Went to a friend's and brought it with me. Did their pocket knives and a few kitchen knives.
Dustin D Ha! Sometimes it blows my mind how dull some people’s daily use knives are. How do you live like this?!
Ya, my knives are so dull they couldn't cut a fart, will be ordering this sharpener tomorrow
The best video using this so far.
I have owned a set of classic Wustoff chefs knives that cost me $300 way back in 1996. I keep them sharp, but I never really attained that like new factory edge.
I just paid for the Ken Onion ELITE BUNDLE Work Sharp AND a full set of 1" Low deflection belts for my EDC Wharnclife CPM 158 and D2 steel knives.
I can re profile my EDC down to 10 degrees which ought to be interesting.
Work Sharp Ken Onion version is so amazing easy to use.Backed by a great company.
Thank you for making this video. I own one of these and watched several videos on them none of which are as good as yours. I’ve learned a lot from your video and picked up several good tips. I’ve read through all the comments and questions and learned a lot from the answers and advice you gave. This is an excellent video.
Thank you for the feed back. It is truly appreciated!
@@jamesgu4417 great job, I was wondering why you only used 1 side of the leather strop?
@@RazorsEdgeDIY Thanks! You can only use the leather strop on the edge trailing side. Using the other side, the blade would cut into the leather.
@@AGuThing Oh, I see. Thank you for the great info on the Work Sharp electric products! I have the newest guided Elite system that I'll be reviewing soon along with alot of other products. I'm just starting my channel so there is no content YET 😉 its called Bright Lights EDC! Coming soon to a theater near you, lol!😂🤣
@@RazorsEdgeDIY Good luck to you! Subscribed!
I own a nearly full set of the Wusthof classic Ikon knives! Thank you for posting this video and helping to give me some motivation and confidence that this can be done with my new Work Sharp KO sharpener. I’m now subscribed for more great content!
Every time I sharpen with the Ken Onion my eyes water
It's much better with salt
okay, you just sold this, thanks man
Lol. Enjoy - all you and your friends knives will be hair shaving sharp in no time!
If you are on both the angle guide and the edge guides you will not be pushing down hard as both provide hard stops for the blade to travel in. Also, doing the same number of strokes on each side doesn’t make sense as you could form the burr with one or two strokes. Not every maker hits the centerline of the steel when making their blades. Just check out most knives from CRKT.
Thank you. I just ordered this sharpener.
Nice! Every blade in your home will be razor sharp and you’ll still be looking for something else to sharpen. 😂
Thank you for this video. I was not sure to buy or not to buy, after this video I will buy definitely.
Nice! Definitely worth it if you don’t feel like whipping out the stones every time you need to sharpen something.
I didnt see any hairline scratches along the side of the knife above the cutting edge. Were there any? Some complained about that with the Work Sharp's and the Chef's Choice electric. I wondered if/when there were scratches it wasn't "human error".
My only CON is it puts a convex bevel on the knives. If the knife didn't originally have a convex grind some people might not want to change the bevel profile. though a convex is actually better in that it would cut through items easier then one with a visible 2ndary bevel. Will this belt-grinder always create convex edges?
I haven’t had any issues with hairline scratches on chefs knives or full flat ground pocket knives. I have however gotten some scratches on saber ground knives due to the thicker spine.
The convex edge for me was actually a pro and a selling point. I prefer a convex micro bevel. I tend to get some convexing hand sharpening on a stone too. But yeah, if you do not want a convex edge, this is not for you. No way to avoid it with the work sharp.
@@AGuThing ok. Good to know. Maybe I'll consider one.
So when sharpening the right side of the sharpener the belt is moving away but when sharpening on the left, the belt is moving into the blade? Is that ok for the knife? You’d think the belt would just get cut riding into the blade like that.
That concerned me at first too but haven’t had any issues. I’ve also looked at both sides of the edge under a microscope and you can’t tell the difference. If you think about it, even sharpening on a stone, some techniques call for edge trailing strokes, and others call for edge leading.
I appreciate it thanks@@AGuThing
excellent video. Thank you for making.
The touch of self deprecation was good, mirrored by the knuckle cut...maybe previous knife, from a previous take? Thx for the review.
Haha. Thanks. Also easier on the ego for me to own it and say it than have 100 comments pointing out my error and calling me an idiot. 😂
I must be doing something wrong. My Oneida chefs knife is (according to the info from Oneida) to be sharpened at 20 degrees. Tried it on the Worksharp, (made sure of the angle, 5 strokes on both sides, medium grit just to touch it up a bit) it came out duller than it was before. Had to really work on the manual wetstones (yes, 20 degrees) to get it sharp again.
Probably will have to practice a LOT and ruin a lot of cheap knives to get it to work for me, but that seems to rather defeat the purpose. Wetstone takes longer (in this case MUCH longer) but at least I can use it again
The first time using any knife on the worksharp, even if using the same angle it was originally sharpened to, will take more than 5 strokes on each side. The reason being you are going from a V edge to a convex edge. Don’t alternate sides. Sharpen one side until you feel the burr form along the opposite side (will probably take 8-12 passes the first time), switch to the other side for the same number of passes. At this point you should now feel a distinct burr on the first side. Switch to a finer belt and then alternate sides for 8-12 passes (4-6 each side), and it should be pretty damned sharp.
@@AGuThing Thanks! I'll try that. But I think I'll try it on a cheaper knife first anyway ;)
@@rjvanloon4769 Definitely a good idea to practice on cheaper knives first! However I’d recommend a cheap carbon steel knife like this one amzn.to/3t31YD6 over a cheap stainless steel knife. Even the cheap carbon steel knives will readily take a razor sharp edge where some of the cheap stainless steel knives will never get to that point no matter how much you sharpen them.
great video, i just got one and a doing a bit of research on how to use it, thank you!
What does that even mean, research? Does it work or not? Surely you can tell from the first knife you try?
I have this system with the blade grinding attachment and have fixed 2 pocket knives on it and have sharpened 3 pocket knives with my brothers kitchen set so far definitely use a beater knife on the first go just need to be careful because I nearly overheated an old beater the first time but the rest are fine. Good job on the sharpness on that wustof I got our less expensive chefs knife the same sort of sharpness yesterday on the grinding attachment it’s so much better to use
Nice! I’ve been thinking about getting the grinding attachment too. Thanks for sharing your results.
@@AGuThing You definitely should get it it’s a great investment to an already amazing system. Ah you’re welcome you’ve got a nice chefs knife by the way ☺️
I just got mine.....Where did you set the speed.....or rather....what did you set the speed to? TY
I forget the number but right in the middle of the range.
@@AGuThing TY!
6:00 Only one thing , u should disconnect power when changing belt
Good call out!
I do wish I had a channel and got one free!!!!! And how long do the new pads last??
Are they doing that? I paid for mine! Lol. They last quite a while. I haven’t kept track exactly but I’ve definitely sharpened over 2 dozen knives on the original set and they still look good.
Only problem I got is it doesn't go to 14 degrees which I love with kitchen knives cause it tends to make it sharper than a 15
W😲W!! U sliced Morgan Freeman like butter🤭 good vid Thanks!👍🏽 Just bought the thing!
🤣 if you need any help with it feel free to drop a question here. Have fun!
I have one of these on order, can't wait to try it out on my edc.
Sonora108 Awesome for edc folding knife. I go through all the grits the first time around to reprofile, after that literally 8 total passes, alternating sides, on the fine belt once a week keeps it razor sharp.
Maybe this is dumb, but when you switch sides, the belt runs in the opposite direction. Is that bad for the steel surface?
Lol. Not dumb at all. I was a little concerned about this at first too but haven’t had any issues. Even under magnification, you don’t see any difference.
This sharpener looks like it will get the job done. However I have my eye on the tormek. Keeps blade cool so I wont have to worry about the temper..
Good video. Only thing I wouldnt like is doing the leather and trying to do the 2nd side on that thing.
mark mills Yeah... for kitchen knives I’ve just been hand stropping on a leather strop mounted on a wood block. For pocket knives it’s a lot more manageable and I still use the leather belt on the work sharp. Couple of quick passes on just the leather really extends the time between full sharpenings on my EDC.
I have the Precision Adjust and I used it on a Svord Peasant. I don't know if it's the steal but I can't get it to push cut.
Do you strop after sharpening? That is often times the difference between being able to push cut and not. If you don’t have a leather strop and polishing compound you can actually get a pretty good result using a newspaper or magazine.
I thought Wusthof chefs knife had a blade angle of 14-15°? What made you want to change it to a 20°?
Modern Wusthofs are around 14 degrees. This one is close to 30 years old. Back then they were sharpened to 20 degrees. It wasn’t until Japanese chefs knifes became tremendously popular that western manufacturers started using harder steels and steeper angles. The steel on this knife is not hard enough to sustain anything more acute than 18 on each side and for the work this knife is generally used for, longevity of the edge is more important to me than a few degrees of extra sharpness.
@@AGuThing gotcha. Thanks
How flush should the spine of the knife be against the guiding slot?
Fully flush but just resting against it and not pushing too hard against it.
I can't find the leather strop belt for the Ken onion edition on Amazon or the work sharp web site. Where did you find it?
I purchased it from eBay. However I will say that after using it for a while, I now prefer using a traditional wood block mounted leather strip over the leather belt on the work sharp. It offers more control and consistency.
Work Sharp no longer makes a genuine leather belt. They’ve gone over to a pair of fabric material belts with two different grits (red and green) for fine and finer polishing.
Place a tomato with a flattened surface on the table and try to cut it without holding it and see if your knife will slice through it. Tomato skin offers resistance paper does not and is a better test for sharpness. Also, take a piece of copy paper, fold in half, stand it up. Without holding the paper see if the knife will cut down the fold. If it can cut that without buckling the paper, that is SHARP.
My KO sharpener just arrived ...... thanks for the video as I hope to get my knives that sharp ....... or ruin them ........ either way; they are visiting the sharpener this weekend
Ron Hall Good luck! Follow the directions and you should have razor sharp edges in no time. Don’t rush it, but don’t go too slow either, you don’t want to overheat the edge - a mistake I’ve made. Still gets hair shaving sharp but the edge gets dull very quickly if overheated.
With the strop, why not flip the blade over so the edge is facing up and use the other side. Than pull awkwardly like that?
Nestta5252 There’s not enough clearance on the other side with a chefs knife. At that angle the handle of the work sharp is in the way. I’ll admit it looks precarious in the video but I felt in full control while doing it. I’d recommend moving the work sharp around and finding what’s most comfortable for you.
does it matter what angle you sharpen the knife at?
The One Yup, depends on the knifes steel and intended application. For example, VG10 Japanese chefs knife I’ll sharpen at 15 degrees per side where as I’d do a camp machete at 22 degrees.
@@AGuThing How do I know what angle to sharpen the knife at? Any general rule?
The One there are some general guidelines but no fixed rules. If you told me what kind of knife it is and what will you be using it for I may be able to give a more specific recommendation. General guidelines I used would be:
German steel kitchen knives typically 18-20, Japanese kitchen knives ~15, pocket knives ~20, knives or tools for chopping ~22-24.
@@AGuThing Kitchen knifes for everyday use
The One Would you know what kind of steel they are made from or what brand they are? For example for an 8” chefs knife if it was a cheaper Cuisinart knife made from 440 steel I’d sharpen at 20 degrees but a Shun made from VG10 I’d sharpen at 15. The cheaper steel isn’t hard enough to maintain that keen of an edge.
Nice video I’m getting one today
Picked mine up today but mine came with a 6000 grit polishing belt instead of the leather belt. I think the polishing belt is a lot better idea then the leather because you can go against the grain using the guide instead of free handing it with the leather.. That did not look comfortable
zleggitt1989 Is the 6000 grit belt you got the full width one or the skinnier one? I got the skinnier one and just can’t seem to get a good result with it. Either way, regardless of how high a grit you go, I always recommend finishing with a strop. Go with a regular wood block leather strop if you’re more comfortable with that than the belt on the work sharp. Stropping serves a different purpose and will still improve an edge on a blade that I put a mirror finish on with a 10k water stone.
Awesome video thanks. What is the best compound to use white or green?
Either would be totally fine. I’ve used, white, green, blue and even a few diamond pastes going as low as .25 microns. You cut a little bit ore of a mirror finish on the very edge with the diamond pastes but to be honest, I couldn’t tell a difference in cutting performance and edge retention.
@@AGuThing thanks for the info.
@@brandonnoyb3191 my pleasure
What is the name of that seiko watch? It’s sick!
Thanks! It’s the Sportura Kinetic GMT. Reference SUN025.
Is the stropeing pad the same as the piece of leather style for wood carving knifes!!!
Brian Conley Yup, pretty much
Should I spend my money on this one or go with a similar style for a hundred dollars less??? For performance and quality I would pay the extra money because I have a leather strap for my carving knife but can’t get an edge to even cut soft butter!!!!! And I stroped it like twenty times per side and my results are terrible and I followed the instructions word for word..... I would be the best person to try this and I would give a great review if it worked and I am that person that reads front to back of manual!!! Being on disability and getting 672$ a month to live on I would pay for a razor sharp edge!!!! But if I didn’t get good results I would say so and why....but I know I would never be sent a free one but watching this video is changing my mind and I don’t buy this equipment for just personal use and I would use it to help the elderly people in my building for free!!!! I guess I can dream!!!!! I want to try this model because all your videos have me blown away from what I see...... God bless you all and keep safe!!!
Which other ones are you considering? Between the Ken Onion and the regular worksharp I would say the Ken Onion is well worth the extra money, for me at least. I have many different knives that I sharpen to different angles. If you just have a few knives you’re ok with them all being sharpened to the same angle (I forgot what angle the WS is) than that’s probably fine for you.
Stropping alone won’t do much of the edge is already dull. If you’re on a budget, you could look into getting a cheaper water stone like a King double sided and learning how to sharpen with a stone. Once you get the hang of it, you can actually get a better edge than with any machine.
Just got mine last night. I sharpened 4 blades but none of them can cut paper. I have a feeling I'm going to be buying a lot of sharpening bands for this system
There’s definitely a learning curve. If you post a video of what you are doing I’d be happy to take a look and see if I can identify what adjustments you may need to make.
@@jamesgu4417 Nah. I'll just continue and learn by my mistakes. I have Japanese water stones just in case. I also ordered some leather stroping bands. Those should help
Erich Diehl sounds good. Good luck!
Have you got a link for the leather strop?
Here ya go! amzn.to/35BGSUQ
Many thanks for this video. I know I'm a little late, but as others have said yours is the best one for the Ken O. edition. What a great channel I'm subbed and will be back for some cooking advice. I'm also looking at the Spydy Para 3 but for now I do carry a Spyderco Chaparral for my EDC. I have decided to get one of these sharpeners, mostly for my kitchen knives, and mostly due to your review. But I have one question. I don't see the leather strop being available anywhere. The replacement belts are available at source, but not the strop. Is the strop from a different supplier? Any advice would be most welcome sir.
Thank you. Have a great day.
Really appreciate your feedback and support! My para 3 lightweight and benchmade bugout are the 2 that make it into my EDC rotation the most often. Here’s a link to the strop in the video. amzn.to/2SAX7L3 You may need to stretch it slightly to get it on the first time. To be honest though, I don’t really use it anymore. While it takes a little longer I’ve found it’s easier to use a wood mounted leather strop and the results are just as good.
@@AGuThing
Thank you so much for your swift response. The link is a big help, and for the price I think I will at least give it a try. Re-watching the above video convinces me that this is the proper tool for my needs. I have a local kitchen store that has "a guy" who sharpens knives, but it means I go without my knives for a week or 10 days. I also enjoyed the time lapse sunrise video, and you've now got me thinking about a coffee and chili rubbed New York strip as well. Stay well. Until next time, Cheers!
@@scuffmacgillicutty7509 Nice! It really does a great job. One thing to be careful of though, make sure you don’t move to slowly and overheat the edge, it can ruin the temper of the steel at the edge and make it prone to chipping. Better off making additional passes rather than moving slower on each pass. Good luck and feel free to reach out with any additional questions. If you end up trying the coffee rub, I’d love to hear what you think!
how many knives can you sharpen with a single belt? thanks
A lot! Still using the original belts after using them dozens of times. Haven’t kept track but I’d say at least 30 sharpenings. Maybe not as aggressive as the beginning but still very much adequate.
Off topic, what knot is that on your bracelet? Snake or fishtail?
farva37 Good eye! Snake knot.
you are griding one side top to the bottom, and other side griding bottom to the top. is that ok griding knife like that?
That’s correct. That’s the only way to use this machine, scratched my head at that a little too when I first got it but haven’t noticed any differences or detriment from it.
@@AGuThing i see
Super informative video, thanks my man
Thanks for posting, does this put a convex edge on your knife?
J. P. Yup. Definitely creates a convex edge. That was actually one of the selling points for me.
Bought the same leather belt, sucks it is so thick it rubs the plastic. First use and I have the same black stripe.
heavy1metal That sucks! How much does it rub? Would stretching it out a bit help?
Mine actually doesn’t rub on the plastic. Just barely clears it. The black stripe is from the polishing paste removing metal.
Where is the directional control?
There isn’t one. Side will be edge leading and the other side is edge trailing. I was concerned at first too but after using it and studying the edge under magnification, there was no discernible difference visually or in use.
I didn't notice any scratches on the side of the knife. Were there any? I ask because other users have complained about that. I wondered if it wasn't their own fault. Maybe you could do a follow-up video. With close-up shots of your finished blades? How long have you had it? Used it a lot??
I’ve used it quite a bit over the last year. I’ve never had issues with scratches on chefs knives and thinner pocket knives. I do get scratches on thicker spined pocket knives and hunting knives. What I noticed is it if you don’t keep the guides clean, loose grit builds up on the guides and that will badly scratch up the knife.
@@AGuThing Good point about build up on the guides. Not mentioned in other videos. Might consider one for my German kitchen knives.
Anderson C I would recommend this product. I’ve been very happy with it. One other thing to be careful of though is pulling too slowly and letting the edge heat up to much. It can ruin the heat treat and the very edge becomes brittle and prone to chipping.
When using the leather strap is it a MUST to remove the guide? Can’t you just keep it maintain the correct angle?
Hayama Yama It’s too thick and won’t fit with the guide. Also, when stropping I generally go with a slightly lower angle than the sharpening angle.
@@AGuThing due to your video, I actually bought a KO rather than the smaller model. Still exploring my way around it, but was pleased when I tested it with a CN200L will try it with a maximit next time.
Hayama Yama Good luck! Let me know if you have any other questions on it’s usage.
I saw several comments mention overheating. How can you look out for this?
I’m getting one at end of this month but is it possible to use too much pressure on the pads and mess up the knife???
Brian Conley It wouldn’t quickly mess up the knife but over time, inconsistent pressure or draw speed would lead to an uneven or wavy edge. I’d recommend using just enough pressure to keep the blade against the guide and letting the weight of the knife do the work. Careful to not pull the tip past the belt while it’s still moving.
i want to. buy this. however i have come to know voltage required is 110. it will not work or the loose warranty if i use 220 with an adapter as well. has anyone used this with an adapter.
Ah that blows... sorry, I have no experience with this. Hopefully another viewer will chime in.
Call work sharp
@05:31 do you cut right through Morgan Freeman?
Lol. Totally unintentional! I love Morgan Freeman.
@@AGuThing I'm just razzing you. Great video
@@troy3456789 😂
@@AGuThing I just watched another movie with Morgan Freeman in it: "Hitman's Wife's Bodyguard". He delivers a convincing portrayal in every movie he takes.
@@troy3456789 cool. I’ll check it out. Haven’t seen that one yet.
I saw this once before...
*does it not matter that the belt travels UP one side of the knife and travels DOWN the other side of the knife?
-Is it possible to pull the knife through the same side but in the opposite direction? (Does it still work if you spin the machine around?). Or can you only pull in one direction?
Texas Mann You can pull through on the same side but in the opposite direction. However for me at least, it felt cumbersome and I wasn’t getting consistent strokes and so didn’t get as good a result.
Could probably get better at it with practice but after examining the edges under magnification I couldn’t tell a difference between the up side and the down side so am just sticking with using it the way shown in the video.
I have same question. It seems counter intuitive to let the belt run up against the edge, will the edge not bite into the belt and risk cutting the belt? I have used a rotating disc sharpening method in the past and rotation against the edge of the knife would ruin de disc. I always had to sharpen away from the edge
Great video, where did you purchase the leather strop for the ken onion?
Thanks bud! Here ya go: amzn.to/3FnxyQx
does the strop come with the belts or is it purchased separately?
Purchased separately here: www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z9MKTDS/ref=cm_sw_r_as_gl_api_glt_fabc_93395WWMQ79P9RW5830E?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&linkCode=ml1&tag=jamesgu208-20
For a freshly bought, but rather dull knife, do you recommend starting with the medium grit as well?
Depending on how dull I may even start with coarse, check for the burr every swipe or 2, move to the other side as soon as you feel any burr then move to the medium belt as soon as you feel any burr on the 2nd side.
Seiko mod?
Great video!
Thanks! Stock Seiko SUN025 actually; Sportura Kinetic GMT.
Speed ?
Great video!!! Is that a Ken Onion leather strop and where did you buy it from?
Thanks Bud. Here’s the strop. amzn.to/3pJ5SjB
Great video
Thanks for making this video!
My pleasure!
How often do you have to sharpen your chefs knife? I just bought the ken onion unit and of course used it wrong the first time it looks like. I just locked it on low speed run and pulled the knives through. Also, do you have a link to the leather strop you use?
It really depends on the knife steel and how often it’s used. The Wusthof in the video get sharpened probably every 6 weeks. It’s used almost daily for chopping vegetables, meat, deboning chickens etc. My Miyabi SG2 santoku that is only used for vegetables and boneless meat only needs sharpening every 6 months or so. Here is the strop: amzn.to/3rMm3ff
Great job ..love it... shouldn't have to push my knife through bacon!!! Gotta love Bacon! Thumbs up my man.👍
Bacon makes everything better!
Honestly the strop technique you use is a trip waiting to the er. 😮
Does the leather strop comes with the rest of belts ?
Nope. I purchased it separately on eBay. After using it for a while, I’d actually recommend a wood block mounted leather strop over this.
No
Would you still recommend this? Looks awesome.
Definitely. Great tool!
I believe that little "T" shaped piece is supposed to be vertical and not horizontal. Can you confirm?
J Herberger For shorter blades you leave it vertical. For longer blades you flip it horizontal to help support.
@@AGuThing OK, got it, thanks!
Where do I buy the leather strip?
Here ya go! amzn.to/2LKGObu
Amazon
Learning curve? Does it work or not???
Yes it does work. Learning curve as in in takes a little practice to get consistent razor sharp results. I’d recommend practicing on a cheaper knife first so you don’t accidentally round the tip or remove to much material on your favorite knife
I ripped the angle guides off of mine and just do it freehand. Can get a scary sharp edge on kitchen knives....
Would this work on japanese knives?
It would in that it can handle the higher hardness (I’ve sharpened S30V pocket knives with it) and the keener angle. However I wouldn’t recommend it for any high end Japanese knives until you’ve got some good practice in with cheaper knives. Japanese knives tend to have much thinner edges and tend to be more likely to chip. On an electric grinding belt, there’s a chance you can overheat the thin edge and ruin the temper of the steel making it even more likely to chip. Personally I only use this for my western kitchen knives and pocket knives and hand sharpen Japanese knives on water stones.
Dam that is a sharp knife. I tried to cut butter with mine and failed lol. Good price for that sharpener also.
😂😂
Excellent video
shouldn't you use the guide with the strop too?
Michael Hooks Nope. When you strop it should be at a slightly steeper angle. The guide also wouldn’t allow you to edge trail on both sides, if you tried to strop with with the edge leading it would cut the leather.
@@AGuThing cool beans...obvious noobe here, considering this product...thanks, and love the vid....!
Michael Hooks I do recommend it! Follow the directions, take your time, and all your blades will be razor sharp before you know it! Good luck!
Где такой купить?
Сколько стоит?
Work Sharp or Amazon
Great instructional!
Thank you!
Is your wife Chinese/Mandarin? :)
Looks to be a good tool to consider as most of us don't want to spend the time to learn to use whetstones. I'm not sure I'd spend the time.
My only CON is for some they want to keep the bevel. Using the belt will create a convex bevel...which really isn't a bad idea performance wise...will move through food easier than had it a bevel.
Is it easy or hard to keep a bevel in your time with this tool? Not using the angle guide...Or have you found using a belt-grinder design you will inevitably end up creating a convex edge?
And I am considering the Wusthof Classic IKON series of knives..How do you like the knives? What made you choose them over the Classic? Or the other lines Wusthof makes...
Anderson C My wife is Chinese... but that’s my mom that’s in the background. Lol.
With any belt grinder you’ll always end up with a convex edge as there will always be a little slack in the belt. This was actually a selling point for me when considering the Work Sharp. I prefer a convex edge. Not only does it slice better, it maintain a workable edge for longer too.
In terms of which set to get, I’m sure you’ve heard it before, but it truly does come down to how it feels in your hand. As long as it’s good quality steel with a good heat treat and Rockwell hardness appropriate for your intended use, how it feels will make a bigger difference than the brand or the line. For example, I end up grabbing my $45 Nexus nakiri way more often then my $300 Miyabi in SG2 because it’s more comfortable for the way I hold and cut.
If possible I’d strongly recommend finding a store where you can at least hold them before buying or at the very least finding an online retailer that offered free returns.
@@AGuThing I agree. And great service.
You DO have to decide if you're only with changing the bevel. Are not. Being a home chef it shouldn't matter.
The family is about to set down and eat. You get your knife out and start to cut the roast up. The knife is to doll to cut. Do you really want to go through all this? You go out to the garage to sharpen the knife. I can see the wife coming at me with an ax. And I don't think it is that she wants me to sharpen it also. The Trizon XV will do very near as good and save an argument with the old lady and maybe a divorce.
Good video bro. Well done.
Thanks bro. Appreciate the feedback!
@@AGuThing I just bought that machine. But I find that the guides move a little when leaning knife on it and that makes it difficult to maintain a tru edge
@@Paultricounty I had the same issue at first but try using less pressure. Instead of pushing the knife against the guide just let it rest gently against it. That worked for me and has been giving me consistent, good results.
You think this can handle my lawn mower blades too??
Smokey Tokey It should. Works great on my 20” machete. Probably no need to go beyond the coarse or medium belts.
You didn't have to cut Morgen Freeman!
😂
Nice video. Just one thing, why are you stropping into the blade? That goes against conventional stropping wisdom.
Thanks! I’m actually not, the belt is moving downwards on that side so the strop is edge trailing, moving away from the blade. That’s also why I’m flipping the blade to strop the other side rather than using the other side of the machine like with the grinding belts.
Instead of the paper test it should be the over ripe tomato test. Cut that and it's sharp!
wasn't there some rule never to grind against the edge? cheers
kope ducati You should only sharpen with an edge trailing stroke on water stones as the edge can cut into the softer medium but outside of that most techniques sharpen edge leading. Think spyderco sharpmaker, diamond stones etc.
very nice
"Here I am checking for a burr like an idiot on the wrong side" I was wondering why you were feeling it like that and then cracked up at the voice over
Lol yeah, I was like hmmm, this is taking longer than I expected to feel anything… oh… duh…
“Checking for a burr like an idiot on the wrong side”... Lmfao at least you’re honest haha
I've always been taught, and read, that when using a leather strop you always pull it across the surface rather than into the edge. The reasoning being that the leather isn't removing steel but polishing the edge. Seems like that would be the case with the KOWS as well. Also eliminates the risk of cutting the belt. Is there a reason why you ran it into the edge?
I'm considering buying one of these so I'm watching as many videos on the subject as I can to learn about it. Thanks!
brandi wynter The side I was using, the belt is going down, towards the table, so they are edge trailing strokes, no risk of cutting the leather. When you strop it’s at a more acute angle than when sharpening. When you use polishing compound as I was doing here, in addition to polishing, it does remove metal. The goal here is to remove any remaining burr or wire edge.
@@AGuThing Thanks, I watched again. Dunno why I thought it was going the other way. Have you tried this sharpener with different steels? I'm curious if it works as well with "tougher" steels such as CPM S30v as it does with the more common steels such as AUS8.
brandi wynter I’ve sharpened a Benchmade Bugout in S30v. Easily brings it to a hair shaving edge but doesn’t retain the edge nearly as long as is typical with s30v. May have something to do with carbide tear out or overheating the very edge and affecting the heat treat. 2nd time around I only went up to a medium belt and left a slightly toothier edge, also dipped in ice water between each pass. then stropped by hand on a wood backed leather strop with .5 micron diamond paste. Not quite shaving sharp but could scrape the hair off my leg pretty smoothly. Edge lasted much much longer.
@@AGuThing Thanks, great information. Much appreciated!
brandi wynter 1st time I watched it looked like the knife was running into the leather also. After I watched the second time I did see it running away from blade. Lol.
If only it had more agile choice. E.g. 14, 12.5 (misen, Mann Kitchen), 10 (Enso by Yaxell)..9... So we could sharpen Miyabi's
Anderson C While more adjustability would certainly be welcome, I wouldn’t recommend sharpening those high HRC Japanese steels with this anyway. They are chippy to begin with and with such a thin edge you can easily overheat it and ruin the temper with what’s essentially a mini power belt sander, making the edge even more prone to chipping. My SG2 knives are sharpened on water stones only.
@@AGuThing Keep in mind the belt creates a convex edge, which is tougher and less prone to chipping. I have all my kitchen blades now profiled to 15 and they are sharp enough for anything and hold it well.
Adam Poll Great point! Just be extra careful with very thin edges not to overheat and ruin the temper.
@@AGuThing Yup, that's where the speed control is so great. I tend to run my finger down the side of the edge every few strokes and have never felt any real heat developing.
Сколько стоит?
Wusthofs are sharpened at 14 degrees, not 20.
Steven Howe modern ones perhaps, this one is from about 18 years ago. Western chefs knives weren’t sharpened to such acute angles until relatively recently.
@@AGuThing didn't know that. Thanks for the info