I saw a guy with this system preheat his Rubbermaid mashtun with near boiling water. Dumped in a couple gallons or so and let it sit for 10 minutes, dumped it out, then added his strike water. Helped him hit calculated temps. :)
Great video, thank you guys. I am actually looking into starting the all grain brewing. I was using extract few times by now, because I'm trying to get the hygiene, and bottling right. But this helps a lot. Thank you again.
Great video guys 👍👍 I been brewing kit beers and decided to go all grain now that I am more secure and have some knowledge and your video is so explanatory. Thank you so much. Keep up the brewing 😎
Nice vid. Interesting how processes get developed over time, so I wanted to comment on mine over the past couple years of home brewing, or about 60-80 5gl batches. I use a brew-in-bag method and don't worry about sediment, hop residue, or protein break foam off the boil. Just put it all in there, mash in the boil kettle, remove grains, sparge with top-water in a bucket to get my starting water level of about 7 gallons. I use a combination of re-usable hop bags and disposable socks, depending on how many hops additions in the recipe. I use a home-made copper-coil chiller (wrapped a paint can) and tap water to get wort temp down under 90. From there I rack to a glass carboy, aerate with a wine stirrer in a drill motor, and set in my 65 degree fermenting chamber (upright freezer). Pitching temperature is reached by the next morning, add yeast and stir again. Ales are ready to keg in 2 weeks, no secondary unless lagering. My beer comes out crystal clear, all of the grain dust and stuff you tried to filter out is sitting on the bottom of the fermenter along with the yeast trub. I find glass is much easier to keep crystal clean, and you can see what's going on with your fermenting. It's a simpler process and not as fiddly, but does not scale up well to larger batches due to the weight of the soaked grain bag. Some brewers will use a pulley system, again I think that's too fiddly. So I just use two burners and two 8gl kettles. And there ya have it. Just ordered some kegs from you - seems like a good product source. Thanks!
I've never been able to get my mash efficiency with fly sparging like that. The best i've done is drain the wort then pour in the strike water and let that sit for 30 min then drain
Our efficiently on this brew day was very high, but remember we sparged for a long time, so I am not sure it it that different from adding water and letting it sit for 30 minutes.
@@davidbeiler6364 Which part is the annoying part: The video or that we're showcasing a product that is sold on Kegconnection? Thanks for watching though!
What does that pay? I am fairly certain I could play an explorer on a low budget film...wait a minute, "low budget", that answers my original question.
@Homebrew Happy Hour This is lovely, and amusing at the same time, both of you are BrewNerds lol!! Kinda surprising why are you still stuck at 2.49K+ though...
There is no reason to use a hop bag. Hops can be pitched directly into the wort and subsequently into the fermenter with no adverse effects on the finished beer.
The only confusing thing you did in the video was calling your strike water your "sparge water" as you poured it in to start the mash. Then you correctly called the next infusion of water the sparge water at the end using it to rinse the grains, which is the sparge. I was wondering at first how you were going to rinse the grains (sparge them) when you hadn't even put the grains into the mash yet.
You produced a liquid called moonshiners beer. Mash used for grain distillation is rested at 150F. It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale using single temperature infusion and high modified malt but it works great for cranking up alcohol for grain distillation. High modified home brew malt is distillers/food grade malt and to make ale with it requires the addition of enzymes and for that reason enzymes are manufactured. High modified malt is less expensive than brewers grade malt. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise were originally used for making whiskey until home brewing was invented. There is a maltster producing a type of Marris that is low in protein around 8% which is very good but it is high modified and it requires additional enzymes to make ale. High modified home brew malt is usually 12-16% protein and brewers grade malt is 8-10% protein. Purchase Weyermann floor malt, it's slightly under modified which means that it is rich in enzyme content and it is low in protein which means that it contains a lot of sugar. Take a look at the recipes on Weyermann Malt website. Skagit Malting produces heirloom brewers grade malt, it is expensive. Pioneer Malting in New York sells very good malt as well, ask for Adam. Both companies sell to home brewers. Depending on the length of time the mash was between 140 and 149F some conversion may have occurred. When conversion takes place secondary fermentation is required and the beer will not require priming with sugar or CO2 injection for carbonation. Conversion happens when Beta converts glucose released by Alpha from simple starch amylose (saccharification) into complex sugar, maltose and maltotriose (conversion). Starch converts into nothing, it's the container that protects the sugar and Alpha opens the container (liquefaction). Yeast does nothing with complex sugar until the glucose is gone which happens during primary fermentation. During second fermentation yeast absorbs complex sugar through the cell wall and an enzyme within yeast converts complex sugar into glucose which is expelled back through the cell wall and the sugar becomes fuel. After second fermentation has ended the beer is placed in a keg where yeast converts maltotriose into glucose and natural carbonation occurs. The beer clears without additives and gravity falls to expected FG. Before throwing away spent mash take a look at it and you will notice a bunch of white particles throughout the mash. It is a type of starch called amylopectin. Amylopectin is located at the tips of the kernel and it's the richest starch in malt. The reason that it is left over is that the starch is hard and heat resistant and temperatures used during infusion brewing are not high enough to burst the starch where it enters into solution. The starch contains a type of sugar called A and B limit dextrin. The sugar is tasteless, nonfermenting and responsible for the body in beer. Alpha releases limit dextrin from the starch and the action is called dextrinization. Since the starch contains pectin gelatinization occurs. However, none of that took place during the brew session and it must in order to produce ale. Omitting a Beta rest places ale out of reach, as well. There are the four enzymatic actions that must occur to make ale and lager. Liquefaction, saccharification, dextrinization-gelatinization are due to Alpha and conversion is due to Beta. During the brew day only liquefaction and saccharification occurred. Skim off hot break before adding hops and skim off second hot break. Less hops will be needed. Maybe you guys did it that way, I didn't pay attention to it. Try not to dump malt into hot, aerated water. Hot side aeration is not a myth and it starts during mashing regardless of what home brew forums mention and experiments claim. A little advice. Mother Nature can care less about strike and target temperature and getting wrapped up in it is a waste of time. Alpha works well at low temperature. When soil stabilizes around 50,55F and when the seed gets wet Alpha kicks in. Our saliva is loaded with it and 98.6F seems to work well with Alpha. Alpha's purpose is to release glucose, one of the three building blocks of life from starch and yeast loves the sugar. Homebrewers concentrate on numbers on a recipe that due to the inconsistencies in malt are not accurate recipes. Before recipes can be accurate there's an important sheet of paper called a spec sheet that comes with every bag of malt that has a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on it that are used by a brewer to determine what has to be done with the malt to make ale. A spec sheet comes with malt because malt is very inconsistent. I am not sure if home brew shops carry data sheets for the malt they sell but one comes with the malt they sell. It's not a bad idea to become familiar with the info on a data sheet because without it, it becomes a challenge to claim ale or lager came from the malt. A data sheet is used by a brewer before purchasing malt. The info on the sheet comes from tests performed on malt at 145, 153 and 155F. The test are 20 minutes long, after that Beta and Alpha denature. Use iodine and test for starch at 20 minutes if the sample is clear of starch run off the extract. If you want to screw around crank the temp up to 162F for 10 minutes and run off the extract. If 150F is a temp of choice throw in a rest at 155-158F for 10-15 minutes and go up to 162F for 10 minutes. Alpha I and Alpha II will release a little bit of sweet tasting, nonfermenting sugar at the higher temps. Doing that will allow the beer to age a little longer. To add body to beer mash has to be boiled and an albuminus protein rest is used. When malt contains a high level of fibrous Beta Glucan, Beta Glucanase enzyme is added to reduce viscosity or the mash is rested at 130F and Proteolytic enzymes will reduce the fibers to glucose which lowers mash viscosity. Protein and Beta Glucan are listed on a spec sheet. I enjoyed the video and Have a GREAT YEAR BREWING!!
Can you cite sources for your claims about "not making an ale" using this process? Seem to be lots of homebrewing books, magazines, and websites that disagree with some of your assertions.
I enjoyed your video. I'm just curious why you spend so much time transferring your wort after it cooled? You talk about oxygenating. Well dump it! Why mess with the hose? Was the kettle too heavy. You said you made ten gallons but that didn't appear to be a ten gallon kettle. Maybe I'm wrong. Now that I think about it some more, your kettle must be bigger than I'm seeing.
3 ปีที่แล้ว +3
Perhaps a 20th-century thermometer might be a worthy investment?
Haha! I had to look up their channel. I'd love to claim that we have been using that audio bed from TH-cam's royalty-free library but I'm not actually sure. Thanks for watching!
I don't understand what the point in using a cooler is when you can just put all the grains in a bag...biab method...also the terminology makes learning to brew kind of confusing...like pitching yeast..what's that mean? Adding yeast? If so why call it pitching? Also what's strike water? Just hot water?
I started all-grain brewing with a plastic cooler years ago. Brewed many batches and never noticed a thing. Lots of people over many years use coolers as mash tuns, if there was a problem with chemical leeching nobody would use them. My two cents..
We do use one sometimes, but when we are doing "how to" we try not to add so many things that it becomes overwhelming for people. I have never had a stuck mash using Imperial Yeast and I have never done a starter since using their yeast, but I use a lot of yeast (if I am doing a 10 gallon batch I use two with a Ale and sometimes 3 with a lager). Now that I have said this my next fermentation will stick!
I don't understand what the point in using a cooler is when you can just put all the grains in a bag...biab method...also the terminology makes learning to brew kind of confusing...like pitching yeast..what's that mean? Adding yeast? If so why call it pitching? Also what's strike water? Just hot water?
I saw a guy with this system preheat his Rubbermaid mashtun with near boiling water. Dumped in a couple gallons or so and let it sit for 10 minutes, dumped it out, then added his strike water. Helped him hit calculated temps. :)
Great video, thank you guys.
I am actually looking into starting the all grain brewing.
I was using extract few times by now, because I'm trying to get the hygiene, and bottling right.
But this helps a lot. Thank you again.
Maybe a tip. When I use a hop sock/bag, I just use a clip at the rim of the pot, so not having to tie/untie.
That's a great idea!
Great video guys 👍👍 I been brewing kit beers and decided to go all grain now that I am more secure and have some knowledge and your video is so explanatory. Thank you so much. Keep up the brewing 😎
thank you for a very informative video
Nice vid. Interesting how processes get developed over time, so I wanted to comment on mine over the past couple years of home brewing, or about 60-80 5gl batches.
I use a brew-in-bag method and don't worry about sediment, hop residue, or protein break foam off the boil. Just put it all in there, mash in the boil kettle, remove grains, sparge with top-water in a bucket to get my starting water level of about 7 gallons.
I use a combination of re-usable hop bags and disposable socks, depending on how many hops additions in the recipe.
I use a home-made copper-coil chiller (wrapped a paint can) and tap water to get wort temp down under 90. From there I rack to a glass carboy, aerate with a wine stirrer in a drill motor, and set in my 65 degree fermenting chamber (upright freezer). Pitching temperature is reached by the next morning, add yeast and stir again. Ales are ready to keg in 2 weeks, no secondary unless lagering.
My beer comes out crystal clear, all of the grain dust and stuff you tried to filter out is sitting on the bottom of the fermenter along with the yeast trub. I find glass is much easier to keep crystal clean, and you can see what's going on with your fermenting.
It's a simpler process and not as fiddly, but does not scale up well to larger batches due to the weight of the soaked grain bag. Some brewers will use a pulley system, again I think that's too fiddly. So I just use two burners and two 8gl kettles.
And there ya have it. Just ordered some kegs from you - seems like a good product source. Thanks!
You wrapped copper coiling around a paint can to for your chiller?
@@CarlPapa88 Wrapped the paint can to build the circular coil of the chiller.
great video EDUCAtional FOR THE MASSES. /.... Here's to your growing!
Cheers!
great video 👍
I've never been able to get my mash efficiency with fly sparging like that. The best i've done is drain the wort then pour in the strike water and let that sit for 30 min then drain
Our efficiently on this brew day was very high, but remember we sparged for a long time, so I am not sure it it that different from adding water and letting it sit for 30 minutes.
I use a sous-vide stick to hold my mash temperature and it work real good you should try it one day
I recently bought a sous vide stick. I never would have thought of using it for this. Not a bad idea.
doesn't it get all jammed up with grist?
0:29, Todd looks like an explorer from a very low budget film lol
pretty annoying trying to "sell" their product
@@davidbeiler6364 Which part is the annoying part: The video or that we're showcasing a product that is sold on Kegconnection? Thanks for watching though!
@@davidbeiler6364 We are often called annoying. Not usually for overselling, but annoying none the less.
What does that pay? I am fairly certain I could play an explorer on a low budget film...wait a minute, "low budget", that answers my original question.
@Homebrew Happy Hour This is lovely, and amusing at the same time, both of you are BrewNerds lol!! Kinda surprising why are you still stuck at 2.49K+ though...
nice video !
Thanks for the video, Do the Cooler Brew All Grain Brewing System Equipment Kit can be shipped to Mexico?
You should get FermCap. Put it in just as the boil starts and you'll break the foam, and never have to worry about a boil over.
There is no reason to use a hop bag. Hops can be pitched directly into the wort and subsequently into the fermenter with no adverse effects on the finished beer.
I would like to know what that little white valve at end of your HLT hose is called Thank you
Hi, very nice video.
Same method I use for two years. My wort is a bit more cloudy. I use a hammer mill to crush the grain. How do you crush it?
The only confusing thing you did in the video was calling your strike water your "sparge water" as you poured it in to start the mash. Then you correctly called the next infusion of water the sparge water at the end using it to rinse the grains, which is the sparge.
I was wondering at first how you were going to rinse the grains (sparge them) when you hadn't even put the grains into the mash yet.
Yes, sorry! I wonder if I can put a card on this video at that part with the correction? Thanks for watching and for the comment!
You produced a liquid called moonshiners beer. Mash used for grain distillation is rested at 150F.
It is chemically and enzymatically impossible to produce ale using single temperature infusion and high modified malt but it works great for cranking up alcohol for grain distillation. High modified home brew malt is distillers/food grade malt and to make ale with it requires the addition of enzymes and for that reason enzymes are manufactured. High modified malt is less expensive than brewers grade malt. Marris Otter, Halcyon and Golden Promise were originally used for making whiskey until home brewing was invented. There is a maltster producing a type of Marris that is low in protein around 8% which is very good but it is high modified and it requires additional enzymes to make ale. High modified home brew malt is usually 12-16% protein and brewers grade malt is 8-10% protein. Purchase Weyermann floor malt, it's slightly under modified which means that it is rich in enzyme content and it is low in protein which means that it contains a lot of sugar. Take a look at the recipes on Weyermann Malt website. Skagit Malting produces heirloom brewers grade malt, it is expensive. Pioneer Malting in New York sells very good malt as well, ask for Adam. Both companies sell to home brewers. Depending on the length of time the mash was between 140 and 149F some conversion may have occurred. When conversion takes place secondary fermentation is required and the beer will not require priming with sugar or CO2 injection for carbonation. Conversion happens when Beta converts glucose released by Alpha from simple starch amylose (saccharification) into complex sugar, maltose and maltotriose (conversion). Starch converts into nothing, it's the container that protects the sugar and Alpha opens the container (liquefaction). Yeast does nothing with complex sugar until the glucose is gone which happens during primary fermentation. During second fermentation yeast absorbs complex sugar through the cell wall and an enzyme within yeast converts complex sugar into glucose which is expelled back through the cell wall and the sugar becomes fuel. After second fermentation has ended the beer is placed in a keg where yeast converts maltotriose into glucose and natural carbonation occurs. The beer clears without additives and gravity falls to expected FG.
Before throwing away spent mash take a look at it and you will notice a bunch of white particles throughout the mash. It is a type of starch called amylopectin. Amylopectin is located at the tips of the kernel and it's the richest starch in malt. The reason that it is left over is that the starch is hard and heat resistant and temperatures used during infusion brewing are not high enough to burst the starch where it enters into solution. The starch contains a type of sugar called A and B limit dextrin. The sugar is tasteless, nonfermenting and responsible for the body in beer. Alpha releases limit dextrin from the starch and the action is called dextrinization. Since the starch contains pectin gelatinization occurs. However, none of that took place during the brew session and it must in order to produce ale. Omitting a Beta rest places ale out of reach, as well. There are the four enzymatic actions that must occur to make ale and lager. Liquefaction, saccharification, dextrinization-gelatinization are due to Alpha and conversion is due to Beta. During the brew day only liquefaction and saccharification occurred.
Skim off hot break before adding hops and skim off second hot break. Less hops will be needed. Maybe you guys did it that way, I didn't pay attention to it. Try not to dump malt into hot, aerated water. Hot side aeration is not a myth and it starts during mashing regardless of what home brew forums mention and experiments claim.
A little advice. Mother Nature can care less about strike and target temperature and getting wrapped up in it is a waste of time. Alpha works well at low temperature. When soil stabilizes around 50,55F and when the seed gets wet Alpha kicks in. Our saliva is loaded with it and 98.6F seems to work well with Alpha. Alpha's purpose is to release glucose, one of the three building blocks of life from starch and yeast loves the sugar. Homebrewers concentrate on numbers on a recipe that due to the inconsistencies in malt are not accurate recipes. Before recipes can be accurate there's an important sheet of paper called a spec sheet that comes with every bag of malt that has a bunch of acronyms and numbers listed on it that are used by a brewer to determine what has to be done with the malt to make ale. A spec sheet comes with malt because malt is very inconsistent. I am not sure if home brew shops carry data sheets for the malt they sell but one comes with the malt they sell. It's not a bad idea to become familiar with the info on a data sheet because without it, it becomes a challenge to claim ale or lager came from the malt. A data sheet is used by a brewer before purchasing malt. The info on the sheet comes from tests performed on malt at 145, 153 and 155F. The test are 20 minutes long, after that Beta and Alpha denature. Use iodine and test for starch at 20 minutes if the sample is clear of starch run off the extract. If you want to screw around crank the temp up to 162F for 10 minutes and run off the extract. If 150F is a temp of choice throw in a rest at 155-158F for 10-15 minutes and go up to 162F for 10 minutes. Alpha I and Alpha II will release a little bit of sweet tasting, nonfermenting sugar at the higher temps. Doing that will allow the beer to age a little longer. To add body to beer mash has to be boiled and an albuminus protein rest is used. When malt contains a high level of fibrous Beta Glucan, Beta Glucanase enzyme is added to reduce viscosity or the mash is rested at 130F and Proteolytic enzymes will reduce the fibers to glucose which lowers mash viscosity. Protein and Beta Glucan are listed on a spec sheet.
I enjoyed the video and Have a GREAT YEAR BREWING!!
Fascinating! Thank you
Can you cite sources for your claims about "not making an ale" using this process? Seem to be lots of homebrewing books, magazines, and websites that disagree with some of your assertions.
You Sir are informative.
Offff, why aren't you having a contentful channel already?
Hello there, good recipe! I wonder what is that thing you use for sparging at 7:45??? Can I buy it on amazon?
nice MB in the background. IS it a ford or a willys?
At the beginning when you said sparge, did you mean mash?
Yes! Todd misspeaks all the time. :)
Sparge, mash...same thing to an idiot! Yes, I said the wrong word. As Josh mentioned, I do this often.
@@twburnskc Don't we all. I get used to saying to people "You know what I mean!"
I enjoyed your video. I'm just curious why you spend so much time transferring your wort after it cooled? You talk about oxygenating. Well dump it! Why mess with the hose? Was the kettle too heavy. You said you made ten gallons but that didn't appear to be a ten gallon kettle. Maybe I'm wrong. Now that I think about it some more, your kettle must be bigger than I'm seeing.
Perhaps a 20th-century thermometer might be a worthy investment?
Have you ever done a partigyle Mash before
I haven't nor am I familiar with the term! I'll look into it.
this sure is a weird episode of Outside Xbox
Haha! I had to look up their channel. I'd love to claim that we have been using that audio bed from TH-cam's royalty-free library but I'm not actually sure. Thanks for watching!
I was wondering why it sounded so familiar... and I was watching Outside Xbox today... I feel ashamed.
Well you don't need that with brew in a bag
I don't understand what the point in using a cooler is when you can just put all the grains in a bag...biab method...also the terminology makes learning to brew kind of confusing...like pitching yeast..what's that mean? Adding yeast? If so why call it pitching? Also what's strike water? Just hot water?
Now just get rid of the hops and use bigger buckets.
Don't you think that chemicals leach in to the wort from using a plastic mash tun at high temperature. I don't use any plastic in my brewing process.
I started all-grain brewing with a plastic cooler years ago. Brewed many batches and never noticed a thing. Lots of people over many years use coolers as mash tuns, if there was a problem with chemical leeching nobody would use them. My two cents..
Not sure what these fellas are using for a cooler brand wise? Rubbermaid coolers are BPA free and should be safe for hotter liquids?
@@MrOldnslofly looks like Rubbermaid to me. Can get one at home Depot for bout 45 bucks.
Maybe boiling water or above that, but mash temperatures are safe
oldschoolman 144 I’m with you
Should use a yeast starter
We do use one sometimes, but when we are doing "how to" we try not to add so many things that it becomes overwhelming for people. I have never had a stuck mash using Imperial Yeast and I have never done a starter since using their yeast, but I use a lot of yeast (if I am doing a 10 gallon batch I use two with a Ale and sometimes 3 with a lager). Now that I have said this my next fermentation will stick!
Never do a video with a puppy in the background ....guess what people are watching
Hahaha, that's solid advice!
I never saw the puppy? I have to watch again
I don't understand what the point in using a cooler is when you can just put all the grains in a bag...biab method...also the terminology makes learning to brew kind of confusing...like pitching yeast..what's that mean? Adding yeast? If so why call it pitching? Also what's strike water? Just hot water?