I originally watched this video about two years ago when I was finishing my basement and neglected to say thank you so much for this and all of your other videos, they are incredibly insightful and helpful.
Great tip and work! I don't do this for the bottom sill plate on windows. I cut blocks of various thicknesses and carry pre-cut buttstrip. I use this for shimming the bottom in 3-4 places. That way when a kid (or goofy adult) steps on the sill like they shouldn't, it is absolutely solid and doesn't move. The sides/top I will use this method.
Can not thank you enough for this tip. Started using the drywall screw shims 6 months ago, and today was shimming 20 windows with your method. Takes a minute to shim them, but the install more than makes up with the time saved, and piece of mind that goes with the time savings. You Rock Spencer! Thanks again for this excellent content.
and this is why i subscribed. Not only the tips and tricks, but how you explain and communicate is great. You and ScottBrown in NZ are my top yt carpenters to watch. You should do more tools reviews ;)
so lucky to have that run of windows installed plumb, square and level across the total run. would be a 1% chance this would be the case on a remodel. nice work.
Looks great . After we made our jamb extension we would use a foam gun to insulate between the extension and the ro then put the casing on. It fills the gap and makes them very secure also.
This is just the approach I need for finishing of the windows in my garage. I have several windows I want to install the trim as a single unit, but could not figure out how to shim the unit. This video came at the 👌 time. Thanks!
I saw you check the bottoms to make sure they all lined up, and it looked good on the video. It's nice to see quality framing followed with a quality finish. True teamwork
Gonna need to start taking notes of all of these nifty hacks. I have used the screw head hack on some other situations but never on jamb extensions. Another nugget from Insider Carpentry.
Wow great trick with the drywall screws as shims, I so stealing that idea, thanks for the trick and love the videos, please keep them coming. Also yes you can teach a old dog new tricks, I'm a retired carpenter.
My boss would never go for this. One of the sups suggested this method and he shot it down. We also line and case individually. I appreciate all your videos and I've tried integrating as many efficiencies that I can get away with. It's really helped. Thanks
I'm definitely going to try this method next week on the window job I'm on. I batch cut and picture framed all of my exterior casing it turned out great. Thanks for sharing the great content.
Great job 👍 I " accidentally" discovered this method about 15 years ago when I went to trim a new house and realized after I started that the supplier didn't bring the shims, so I had to improvise
Nice job Spencer. Very nice and quick quality work. I also use screws for baseboard installation. I end up with drywall factory edge at very bottom and need to "screw" them out prior to baseboard install so it doesn't tilt in too much. Also use them in coped corners and just adjust the screw to fit the opposing cope cut. Dial in the fit with the screw head. Also keeps my joints nice and tight. As for those windows, I can understand that as a sub coming in to do this you can't be that hung up on sealing these windows up tight. I get that. But that looks like a 2 x 6 wall that the bank of windows are in overlooking that lake and if that is west or north facing, those jamb extensions are crying to be filled in with non expanding foam prior to sealing off with your wood. I know I would have done it if it were me but only if they paid me to do it. Forgot to add FYI. Anderson sells these extensions in a vinyl finish wood to match their window interior you are extending off from. Thst's a choice for GC of house, not yours. They do look very nice and are very durable around any moisture buildup on those windows which will sweat in the winter. Especially on the bottom.
Good idea! We frame and trim out the entire house when ready. When we install the windows we angle all the sill plates 5° and cut the RO height 1/4" larger. We shim up the windows with 1/2" plywood/OSB (whatevers on hand). When putting together our jams and casing we just set them in the RO on the 1/2" shims. We then sight around the jam and window reveals as needed and then nail off the casing as needed. I work with an old timer (40+ year Carpenter) and this is how he's always done it. I showed him your video on coping and he laughed, lol. He's really quick its unreal. This old timer literally runs laps around 20 year olds, lol. 😊👍🇺🇸
👊👊 There is a lot to be learned from the older generation. They did a lot with little for tooling. But times change and there are plenty of innovative tools to adapt with also. 👍
I use that same method with the drywall screws when I do oversized cased openings works really good keeping everything straight without having to attempt to shim something that could be 8 to 10 inches and width.
I understand its fast, but i still prefer to do jamb extension and casing separate so i can insulate the space between jamb and framing. Also, I put more screws on bottom because someone is bound to put a lot of weight on the window ledge. Love this channel.
Up in Canada we insulate the gap, but the prebuilt jams I've used for a very long time. I prima and 1 coat my jam material before cutting, and then it's one coat of paint on the finish product after nail hole fill and corners. I've used a commercial hot glue gun for years, but never on trim ! That's a great idea, thanks ! Love the efficiency work flow ! I'm not sure what the reveal on the window plastic to liner is, I leave 1/8". Anyone know what Spencer leaves? Thank you to all the great subscribers to this channel, comments are excellent !
The framing is mint at that house. Great job! I use that method for basement windows. But I'll improve it with your jig and drywall screws hack, TOP ideia.
Jason Melo proper framing and window alignment are key. Most of the tract housing I work on have windows out of level/alignment. Makes doing the trim a PITA!
I have always assembled my casing then installed them with 18 gauge pins, adjusted the reveal to where I like it then put small blobs of can foam about every 12” around the window. Under the sill I put solid foam. Then install trim after foam has dried. Probably a bit slower but insured a very solid casing install and it never pulls from the vinyl window. *just have to be careful not put to much foam as to bow or bulge the casing!
Super efficient as always, if I run into windows like those again ill definitely be trying your method. 99% of the vinyl windows here have a 3/4 jamb return on them, basically a dado around the outside so your jamb extension just slides right in, no need for shiming and eliminates any slight difference in depth
In our area, we staple a vinyl u-channel to the face of the window. I think you can get them in 5/8" or 3/4". Vinyl matches the window color. I pre-assemble the extension frame, scribe and trim for width if it's really uneven. The U supports the frame, and hides any gaps if there is movement later on. Nice clean finish when you're done.
That u channel is a good idea as that joint will have to be caulked anyways. That would look better especially if you are using varnish grade finish trim, as a caulk joint does not work with that type of finish. I would ask the window manufacturer to furnish them since they have to be extended and if memory serves me correctly, Anderson windows does sell them as an accessory to their windows. At least they used to years ago. I had to do all mine but my difference was very small extension (vinyl coated wood extensions) to match window finish) and I could nail them on directly to window.
I used to work with a carpenter a long time ago who showed me a similar technique for hanging doors. He’d hang the plumb bob and set a high, middle and low nail on the hinge side flush with the string and push the jamb up against them, then tack it in place with a couple finish nails, add the shims and finish nailing it off.
I did 13 windows last summer, 1/2 were up about 9', and it was all roughed in horribly with gaps etc. I could have used this method on most of them though, wish I would have. Next Time!!! Thanks for the great tip!!!!
Nice work. I'm not trimming out houses any longer but when I was doing trim work anything I could do to achieve speed, accuracy and consistency was foremost in my mind. Your drywall screw technique here is excellent. All I am doing now is custom cabinetry and built-in furniture pieces.
You do some great work madman, very clean job. absolutely great method. Myself,.. Even if those units had not been laid in dead on level, set up and adjusting the inside units on end units set up to the seat screws would be easy. Great method, Thanks as always, sure to use it.
As a window treatment installer, I really wish more trim carpenters did your quality of work. Makes me sick to find a NC house with 1/2-3/4” differences in a wood jamb. Well done!
For what its worth I have a method I like. I think I'm going to change my first step to incorporate your method though. I like to measure the windows to get what I want for the size if my jambs. I build my jambs. I shim (next time I'll use screws instead) the bottom of the opening. I set my assembled jamb in the opening, centering the bottom. I nail the bottom. Then I shim it in place like I would the latch side of a door, nailing it as I go. I use my vibrator tool to cut off my shims and its ready for casing. The thing I like about your method is you can assemble it with the casing on and install in as a unit. I may try that now that I've got the Pur gun recently. Was afraid to do that in the past because I was afraid I'd break the corner joints on the casing apart. I really like your videos and think it's great that you are free with your experience. There are a lot of generous people who post videos of how they do things. But you are skilled beyond most of them. You're ahead of me, that's for sure! I get good results but u ou do it even better most of the time and your efficiency takes the time factor down a long ways. Keep up the good work.
I like to use plywood shims. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. Shim space from stud to window. Gives you a nailing area. Precut all, install as 1 unit. Goes fast. Gives you space to add expansion foam for insulation.
They still make hand screwdrivers. You are carpentry wizard, though. I've been involved in homebuilding since the70's. I'm a second generation builder. And, great idea on the screw shims and jig. I'm showing this to my guy.
I like the idea and think it would work great as long as the windows are set plumb and the jambs are straight . I just recently had to straighten the jambs on 24 double hung Windows where the installer placed the windows in the openings and nailed them in with bowed jambs and all . This really showed up at the trim stage .
Nice! Feathering the drill speed is the key to speed.... I have always put the screws in with the impact as close as possible, then fine tuned with a regular screwdriver. Coarse thread screws are quicker to adjust with the screwdriver.... (I still carry my Yankee screwdriver from the 70s also 😀) Will try the drill on the low speed...seems much easier. Use the same method on wallcaps etc. with a level.
So no nails through extensions jambs into trimmer? I need to rethink what I've been doing all these years. Great video. Wish such a resource was available back in the day.
Mind blown. What an awesome method. You could level cabinets this way too- even if just to do it and install wood shims later. If you build your own cabinets you can level your base (ladder) this way. Why have I been using wood shims all this time?
Great work. Guessing the window guys did a decent job regarding the reveals and everything being plumb. Most I come across are way out. Having to do each one differently.
It's crazy how even though we've never crossed paths, I use a lot of the same methods as you do. Im a trim carpenter also, but I assemble my casing different than you do. I use steel casing splines, it's am old school method that I've never seen anyone else do on youtube.
My door shop uses metal splines for their casing on split jamb doors. If you use poplar wood you should give hipur a try. Hipur and clam clamps will change your life.
@@InsiderCarpentry the splines I'm talking about are not the dainty little "L" shaped one that come on the split jambs. I have a jig to cut a slot length wise across both sides of the miter, then glue it and drive the spline into the slot. It's main purpose is to hold it until the glue dries, but it will also keep the miter flush and together, if the glue should ever break.
Yeah I know what you’re referring to. That’s what my door supplier used for years. Except they didn’t glue the miters. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Now that have switches time the little dumb L shapes ones that you just referred too.
Another epic video! Can’t think of anyway to improve that besides adding your clone 🤣 anyways keep up great work. I’m spending time off Instagram and back to just following a few of these builds for better learning and less time wasted just looking at pics. Great job!!
How do you account for getting a same or similar reveal on the drywall in between window units? Or is this not something you’re worried about because the framers you trim behind are precise and have more or less perfect spacing between window openings? Thanks for the wealth of knowledge you’re giving away for free it’s helped me grow as a carpenter a lot recently.
I've been using a similar method with the screws for about 13 years now, however, a few things I do differently is, I bevel the edge of my jamb extension (10 degrees), I just find it gets a tighter fit and fits over any insulation around the edge of the window so I do have to trim it. Instead of a block of wood because there are too many different type of windows and because often times the windows aren't glazed to keep the vinyl straight, I will use a laser level to line up my bank of windows and set the screw to the laser, same for the vertical side of the window with the laser, thus allows me to span over any imperfections in the window itself and achieve perfectly straight, plumb and level jamb extensions.
Love the jig and the hack with the screws that’s very cleaver,l might be able to use that method whenever I can, my questions is with all those windows and a door that’s next to one of the windows, how do you figure out the same reveals all around the windows and the space between each window to have them all match with equal space? Last time I install the windows the RO wasn’t the same even though the were on the same room, so l had to shim every single opening to make sure they all have same reveal and space between . But be sure l will try this when I get the opportunity, thanks for sharing, l like your way of working, for sure GOD bless you with that skill, thanks!!
Clever shimming! Obvious - once you see it done the first time. Did you have to ensure the plywood top on the saw horses was flat - or was there enough flex on the wood? I assume you attached the extension jamb to the framing. If so ... Would have been through a cedar shim. Did you have to know where the drywall screws were? Could the heads have punched into the casing if the jamb was fixed too tightly? Thanks for the video!
thanks for the video! I think old-timers call them liners instead of extension jambs. I recently thought of the screw idea indecently, but more for installing doors. Kinda use the drywall screws on doors instead of the Jamb Master and hot gluing shims. I'm sure you rip all four of your extension jamb pieces the same size, but what if the window is not even all the way around? Here, we used to say it was the window installers fault and let the painter caulk it, but I guess you could use your stave shim.
If it was really bad I would custom rip them. But these were pretty consistent and no more than +/- 1/8". No no problem ripping them all the same for a paint grade install.
nice trick , but most often the jam extension vary ... how do you deal with that ? Also isn"t it good to also insolate behind the jam ? in cold climates
I originally watched this video about two years ago when I was finishing my basement and neglected to say thank you so much for this and all of your other videos, they are incredibly insightful and helpful.
Great tip and work! I don't do this for the bottom sill plate on windows. I cut blocks of various thicknesses and carry pre-cut buttstrip. I use this for shimming the bottom in 3-4 places. That way when a kid (or goofy adult) steps on the sill like they shouldn't, it is absolutely solid and doesn't move. The sides/top I will use this method.
Can not thank you enough for this tip. Started using the drywall screw shims 6 months ago, and today was shimming 20 windows with your method. Takes a minute to shim them, but the install more than makes up with the time saved, and piece of mind that goes with the time savings. You Rock Spencer! Thanks again for this excellent content.
You bet brother!! Happy to help.
Thank you so much for educating! Very generous of you to share your time, talents, and energy. Thanks again
and this is why i subscribed.
Not only the tips and tricks, but how you explain and communicate is great.
You and ScottBrown in NZ are my top yt carpenters to watch.
You should do more tools reviews ;)
Thanks man! Thanks for the feedback.
Yup agreed, and also Richard from Finish Carpentry TV, I don’t watch anyone else 🤓
That’s a true carpenter that has pride in his work. A dying breed. Well done, sir. 👍🏻
so lucky to have that run of windows installed plumb, square and level across the total run. would be a 1% chance this would be the case on a remodel. nice work.
Looks great . After we made our jamb extension we would use a foam gun to insulate between the extension and the ro then put the casing on. It fills the gap and makes them very secure also.
Would love to hear your background in finish carpentry. You have the knowledge and articulation of a legend.
Great job! Finding someone who cares about the quality of their work is rare! 👍🇺🇸
This is always why I order jamb receiver track on all windows I will be trimming out. Good job Spencer👍
Wow, such a great tip. You are Mr. Productivity with all the terrific preassembly tricks.
This is just the approach I need for finishing of the windows in my garage. I have several windows I want to install the trim as a single unit, but could not figure out how to shim the unit. This video came at the 👌 time. Thanks!
I saw you check the bottoms to make sure they all lined up, and it looked good on the video. It's nice to see quality framing followed with a quality finish. True teamwork
Yep. Whoever installed these windows had them dead but in plane and also consistent depth in the opening. Makes life so much easier.
@@InsiderCarpentry I saw you're comment over on Finish Carpentry TV and was curious if you had any tips or ideas for running those long lengths solo.
Gonna need to start taking notes of all of these nifty hacks. I have used the screw head hack on some other situations but never on jamb extensions. Another nugget from Insider Carpentry.
I've seen this done so many ways, this one is a first and the result is so clean and professional
The more I learn the more I realize I know nothing. Thank you for sharing!
That makes two of us. 👍
Wow great trick with the drywall screws as shims, I so stealing that idea, thanks for the trick and love the videos, please keep them coming. Also yes you can teach a old dog new tricks, I'm a retired carpenter.
Your level of detail is off the charts, great job!
My boss would never go for this. One of the sups suggested this method and he shot it down. We also line and case individually. I appreciate all your videos and I've tried integrating as many efficiencies that I can get away with. It's really helped. Thanks
What's the downside of this approach?
@@enxunw1282 Not the way it was done in 1972? 🤷♂️
Used this method today. My goodness, so efficient. Thanks, my dude.
I live in southwestern Ontario (Canada), we call the jamb extensions as well. Great video
You are truly a master at efficiency!
Awesome work man!!
This is a cool trick. Way more uniform then the piece by piece method I have done in the past.
I'm definitely going to try this method next week on the window job I'm on. I batch cut and picture framed all of my exterior casing it turned out great. Thanks for sharing the great content.
Good luck!
I dig the shim trick. Did not see that coming!
Great job 👍 I " accidentally" discovered this method about 15 years ago when I went to trim a new house and realized after I started that the supplier didn't bring the shims, so I had to improvise
You are one smart mother lover.....
Thanks for giving the love away..
Anytime. 👊
I do the exact same thing by shimming with the screws. Your jig is a great idea was just eyeballing it in the past
Great video, I’ve learned so much about finish carpentry from your videos. Keep up the great work!
Wow! Very good way to shim with the drywall screws! Love it!! Thank you!!💜
Nice job Spencer. Very nice and quick quality work. I also use screws for baseboard installation. I end up with drywall factory edge at very bottom and need to "screw" them out prior to baseboard install so it doesn't tilt in too much. Also use them in coped corners and just adjust the screw to fit the opposing cope cut. Dial in the fit with the screw head. Also keeps my joints nice and tight.
As for those windows, I can understand that as a sub coming in to do this you can't be that hung up on sealing these windows up tight. I get that. But that looks like a 2 x 6 wall that the bank of windows are in overlooking that lake and if that is west or north facing, those jamb extensions are crying to be filled in with non expanding foam prior to sealing off with your wood. I know I would have done it if it were me but only if they paid me to do it.
Forgot to add FYI. Anderson sells these extensions in a vinyl finish wood to match their window interior you are extending off from. Thst's a choice for GC of house, not yours. They do look very nice and are very durable around any moisture buildup on those windows which will sweat in the winter. Especially on the bottom.
Very clever method...I never thought of doing it that way.
Good idea! We frame and trim out the entire house when ready. When we install the windows we angle all the sill plates 5° and cut the RO height 1/4" larger. We shim up the windows with 1/2" plywood/OSB (whatevers on hand). When putting together our jams and casing we just set them in the RO on the 1/2" shims. We then sight around the jam and window reveals as needed and then nail off the casing as needed. I work with an old timer (40+ year Carpenter) and this is how he's always done it. I showed him your video on coping and he laughed, lol. He's really quick its unreal. This old timer literally runs laps around 20 year olds, lol. 😊👍🇺🇸
👊👊 There is a lot to be learned from the older generation. They did a lot with little for tooling. But times change and there are plenty of innovative tools to adapt with also. 👍
I use that same method with the drywall screws when I do oversized cased openings works really good keeping everything straight without having to attempt to shim something that could be 8 to 10 inches and width.
I understand its fast, but i still prefer to do jamb extension and casing separate so i can insulate the space between jamb and framing. Also, I put more screws on bottom because someone is bound to put a lot of weight on the window ledge. Love this channel.
Nothing wrong with that man. 👊👊
Up in Canada we insulate the gap, but the prebuilt jams I've used for a very long time. I prima and 1 coat my jam material before cutting, and then it's one coat of paint on the finish product after nail hole fill and corners. I've used a commercial hot glue gun for years, but never on trim ! That's a great idea, thanks ! Love the efficiency work flow ! I'm not sure what the reveal on the window plastic to liner is, I leave 1/8". Anyone know what Spencer leaves? Thank you to all the great subscribers to this channel, comments are excellent !
What do you use to insulate that space?
The framing is mint at that house.
Great job! I use that method for basement windows. But I'll improve it with your jig and drywall screws hack, TOP ideia.
Jason Melo proper framing and window alignment are key. Most of the tract housing I work on have windows out of level/alignment. Makes doing the trim a PITA!
Nice!. I just installed 7 of the same windows in my house. I'll try the same method. Great Video and thanks for posting!
I have always assembled my casing then installed them with 18 gauge pins, adjusted the reveal to where I like it then put small blobs of can foam about every 12” around the window. Under the sill I put solid foam. Then install trim after foam has dried. Probably a bit slower but insured a very solid casing install and it never pulls from the vinyl window.
*just have to be careful not put to much foam as to bow or bulge the casing!
Wow! Could have used this tip for some windows in my house. Awesome idea! Love your videos.
Super efficient as always, if I run into windows like those again ill definitely be trying your method. 99% of the vinyl windows here have a 3/4 jamb return on them, basically a dado around the outside so your jamb extension just slides right in, no need for shiming and eliminates any slight difference in depth
That would be handy. 👊
Awesome method! I’m building a garage and my exterior walls are 2x8 and I had been wondering how to do jamb extensions for my mandoors. Thanks!!!
In our area, we staple a vinyl u-channel to the face of the window. I think you can get them in 5/8" or 3/4". Vinyl matches the window color. I pre-assemble the extension frame, scribe and trim for width if it's really uneven. The U supports the frame, and hides any gaps if there is movement later on. Nice clean finish when you're done.
That u channel is a good idea as that joint will have to be caulked anyways. That would look better especially if you are using varnish grade finish trim, as a caulk joint does not work with that type of finish. I would ask the window manufacturer to furnish them since they have to be extended and if memory serves me correctly, Anderson windows does sell them as an accessory to their windows. At least they used to years ago. I had to do all mine but my difference was very small extension (vinyl coated wood extensions) to match window finish) and I could nail them on directly to window.
Would love to see you do a video on extension jambs for wood windows. How do you attach the extension jambs to the window jambs?
Hey Spencer. Great tip . Very simple and effective. Thanks for your insight.
You bet!
Great video. Love the shim idea. Definitely going to use that method for sure. Thanks for the videos you post.
I'm Canadian. I have called them jam extensions for 40 years. Keep up the great work!
I used to work with a carpenter a long time ago who showed me a similar technique for hanging doors. He’d hang the plumb bob and set a high, middle and low nail on the hinge side flush with the string and push the jamb up against them, then tack it in place with a couple finish nails, add the shims and finish nailing it off.
I did 13 windows last summer, 1/2 were up about 9', and it was all roughed in horribly with gaps etc. I could have used this method on most of them though, wish I would have.
Next Time!!! Thanks for the great tip!!!!
Fantastic job mate. Long ago Vermonter showed me screw trick and it’s wonderful.
Nice work. I'm not trimming out houses any longer but when I was doing trim work anything I could do to achieve speed, accuracy and consistency was foremost in my mind. Your drywall screw technique here is excellent. All I am doing now is custom cabinetry and built-in furniture pieces.
Badass
You do some great work madman, very clean job. absolutely great method. Myself,.. Even if those units had not been laid in dead on level, set up and adjusting the inside units on end units set up to the seat screws would be easy. Great method, Thanks as always, sure to use it.
Spencer is a GENIUS!!!!
This is the method I like to use whenever possible. Great job!
As a window treatment installer, I really wish more trim carpenters did your quality of work. Makes me sick to find a NC house with 1/2-3/4” differences in a wood jamb. Well done!
Looks like I got another method to show off great stuff love your channel
For what its worth I have a method I like. I think I'm going to change my first step to incorporate your method though. I like to measure the windows to get what I want for the size if my jambs. I build my jambs. I shim (next time I'll use screws instead) the bottom of the opening. I set my assembled jamb in the opening, centering the bottom. I nail the bottom. Then I shim it in place like I would the latch side of a door, nailing it as I go. I use my vibrator tool to cut off my shims and its ready for casing. The thing I like about your method is you can assemble it with the casing on and install in as a unit. I may try that now that I've got the Pur gun recently. Was afraid to do that in the past because I was afraid I'd break the corner joints on the casing apart. I really like your videos and think it's great that you are free with your experience. There are a lot of generous people who post videos of how they do things. But you are skilled beyond most of them. You're ahead of me, that's for sure! I get good results but u ou do it even better most of the time and your efficiency takes the time factor down a long ways. Keep up the good work.
I like to use plywood shims. 1/8, 1/4, 3/8 etc. Shim space from stud to window. Gives you a nailing area. Precut all, install as 1 unit. Goes fast. Gives you space to add expansion foam for insulation.
They still make hand screwdrivers. You are carpentry wizard, though. I've been involved in homebuilding since the70's. I'm a second generation builder.
And, great idea on the screw shims and jig. I'm showing this to my guy.
Been shimmin it with a gage/jig. Your way is definitely faster and equally solid for what’s required.
Awesome job Spencer!!👍
Man I wish I would have seen this yesterday trimed out 6 windows today shims everywhere
Haha ain't it always thecase you figure something out then go on you tube and see what you could have done better
Great tips. I never seen anyone use drywall screws in place of shims. Great job
Love it!! an old carpenter showed me that and I never looked back.
Always super nice job.
I like the idea and think it would work great as long as the windows are set plumb and the jambs are straight . I just recently had to straighten the jambs on 24 double hung Windows where the installer placed the windows in the openings and nailed them in with bowed jambs and all . This really showed up at the trim stage .
Amazing. Thanks for the tip and great work.
Love using screws for shims.
Fantastic idea
Nice!
Feathering the drill speed is the key to speed.... I have always put the screws in with the impact as close as possible, then fine tuned with a regular screwdriver. Coarse thread screws are quicker to adjust with the screwdriver.... (I still carry my Yankee screwdriver from the 70s also 😀)
Will try the drill on the low speed...seems much easier.
Use the same method on wallcaps etc. with a level.
I used to do the same thing with a manual screwdriver but found the drill on 1 speed to be much faster and easier. Try it out!
Id love to come work with you for a few months! Id learn so much
So no nails through extensions jambs into trimmer? I need to rethink what I've been doing all these years. Great video. Wish such a resource was available back in the day.
Yes I did, I just didn't show nailing in the video.
Mind blown. What an awesome method. You could level cabinets this way too- even if just to do it and install wood shims later. If you build your own cabinets you can level your base (ladder) this way. Why have I been using wood shims all this time?
Great work. Guessing the window guys did a decent job regarding the reveals and everything being plumb. Most I come across are way out. Having to do each one differently.
Another great video. Looks great
It's crazy how even though we've never crossed paths, I use a lot of the same methods as you do. Im a trim carpenter also, but I assemble my casing different than you do. I use steel casing splines, it's am old school method that I've never seen anyone else do on youtube.
My door shop uses metal splines for their casing on split jamb doors. If you use poplar wood you should give hipur a try. Hipur and clam clamps will change your life.
@@InsiderCarpentry the splines I'm talking about are not the dainty little "L" shaped one that come on the split jambs. I have a jig to cut a slot length wise across both sides of the miter, then glue it and drive the spline into the slot. It's main purpose is to hold it until the glue dries, but it will also keep the miter flush and together, if the glue should ever break.
Yeah I know what you’re referring to. That’s what my door supplier used for years. Except they didn’t glue the miters. 🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ Now that have switches time the little dumb L shapes ones that you just referred too.
Well done. So simple and effective
Just wow ! I learned so much.. thanks
Another epic video! Can’t think of anyway to improve that besides adding your clone 🤣 anyways keep up great work. I’m spending time off Instagram and back to just following a few of these builds for better learning and less time wasted just looking at pics. Great job!!
It does get to be a waste of time for sure.
How do you account for getting a same or similar reveal on the drywall in between window units? Or is this not something you’re worried about because the framers you trim behind are precise and have more or less perfect spacing between window openings? Thanks for the wealth of knowledge you’re giving away for free it’s helped me grow as a carpenter a lot recently.
Do you place any nails in the extensions to keep them tight to the dw screws?
I didn’t show it in the video but yes. 👍
wow! amazing work
Between you and RRBuilder great content
RR is a content machine.
Hi Spencer, Maybe you could have Jam Master make you a window jig just like the door jig for cutting the shims?
I've been using a similar method with the screws for about 13 years now, however, a few things I do differently is, I bevel the edge of my jamb extension (10 degrees), I just find it gets a tighter fit and fits over any insulation around the edge of the window so I do have to trim it.
Instead of a block of wood because there are too many different type of windows and because often times the windows aren't glazed to keep the vinyl straight, I will use a laser level to line up my bank of windows and set the screw to the laser, same for the vertical side of the window with the laser, thus allows me to span over any imperfections in the window itself and achieve perfectly straight, plumb and level jamb extensions.
Love the jig and the hack with the screws that’s very cleaver,l might be able to use that method whenever I can, my questions is with all those windows and a door that’s next to one of the windows, how do you figure out the same reveals all around the windows and the space between each window to have them all match with equal space? Last time I install the windows the RO wasn’t the same even though the were on the same room, so l had to shim every single opening to make sure they all have same reveal and space between . But be sure l will try this when I get the opportunity, thanks for sharing, l like your way of working, for sure GOD bless you with that skill, thanks!!
Its really about what the eye picks up. These are close enough that it is fine.
Outstanding.
Awesome job
Clever shimming! Obvious - once you see it done the first time. Did you have to ensure the plywood top on the saw horses was flat - or was there enough flex on the wood? I assume you attached the extension jamb to the framing. If so ... Would have been through a cedar shim. Did you have to know where the drywall screws were? Could the heads have punched into the casing if the jamb was fixed too tightly? Thanks for the video!
Do you spray foam behind extension jams?
Thanks for the tip. Looks good.
thanks for the video! I think old-timers call them liners instead of extension jambs. I recently thought of the screw idea indecently, but more for installing doors. Kinda use the drywall screws on doors instead of the Jamb Master and hot gluing shims. I'm sure you rip all four of your extension jamb pieces the same size, but what if the window is not even all the way around? Here, we used to say it was the window installers fault and let the painter caulk it, but I guess you could use your stave shim.
If it was really bad I would custom rip them. But these were pretty consistent and no more than +/- 1/8". No no problem ripping them all the same for a paint grade install.
The drywall screw trick I've used many times. Great for stair nosing that doesn't line up with flooring. We could use better tradesmen here😄
Another excellent tutorial 👌.
Nice work
wow great idea! well done
nice trick , but most often the jam extension vary ... how do you deal with that ? Also isn"t it good to also insolate behind the jam ? in cold climates
Great idea I'm just curious what part of the country are you in I see a canal in the backyard.
Indiana. Its just a retention pond. Common in every development.
Ingenious!!
Great tip, I’m in the Uk so we plaster our window reveals but it’s a transferable hack