Building an Epic Gaming Table - Part 2 - Assembly
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 23 ก.พ. 2019
- Construction of the gaming table continues! Most of the parts for the player stations have been cut, so now we get into the actual structure of the table. This includes backs for the stations, including outlets, the legs, and the internal framing. I also wire it up and make a few corrections along the way.
This thing is a beast and has been taking far longer than planned. After this it will be getting into the finishing details, stain, and varnish. Plus, decorative parts that will take over 100 hours to carve on the CNC machine.
Design files, G-Code, images, and 3D models are available here: redlightning.net/resources.html - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
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Looking forward to part 3 as I am undertaking an extremely similar build.
Coming soon, I promise! It's done, I'm just editing the video together and getting the other resources (g-code, models, etc) organized.
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot super excited for this. I like the style of the table and I would like to replicate something similar. Very much looking forward to the final video. Thank you for documenting it so thoroughly.
@@ScubaSteve319 I should have part 3 up tonight, but until then here are the resources: redlightning.net/resources.html
Great comment from Jane. I can’t remember if it’s from firefly or serenity.
Great video.
Serenity, during the opening landing sequence. This was shortly after "Define interesting" "Oh God oh God we're all gonna die?"
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot great line by Wash.
what kind of wood have you used?
Crazy I have drawn up plan that look just like this. Except with mine the power outlets are at the top of the board, instead of the bottom just incase the accidents. I'm also putting in drawers in the player stations. Awesome build and the cnc work makes it just that much cooler!
Thanks! Some of the design decisions (bottom outlets, no drawers) were kinda dictated by how the TV is mounted, etc. Are your drawers up high too so they can be opened without hitting character sheets and dice?
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot We were going to mount them low to go under the tv, but that would interfere with the character sheets... Hmm may have to redraw the plans now lol. We weren't going to start building until this weekend, so we still have some time to modify.
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Do the player stations support weight? Most of my player like to lean on the table.
@@kellyrunyon888 So far they do. I am using solid brass hinges (effectively sewing machine hinges). Most of the weight transfers into a slight rotation into the bottom fixed portion. I doubt anyone could stand on it, but it should handle leans just fine. I had also looked at marine ladder hinges, but they didn't fold as flat.
Awesome video and build.
Great camera work and detail shots.
However, the volume needs some adjusting - the music is very high compared to the speaking parts - so to hear the speaking (which we want to do) we have to turn it up - then the music is super loud.
Just a small point.
Great vid and great table.
Fantastic feedback. I'll pay closer attention to the audio levels in future videos. Thanks!
I need to find a friend that does woodworking :D
I like how simple you made the leg connections. How stable is the table with the bolt on legs? My current designs make me wonder if that simple geometry over time would be an issue or if cross braces would be needed.
Thanks!
So far, super strong with no wobble. The 4 bolts are pretty tight, and there is 5 1/2" of contact on each side. We'll see how it is long term. With the large span my concern is the middle sagging, but it will be quite easy to add a center leg if the need arises.
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Awesome, good to know. I love the design and I am currently working on a similar model in Sketchup. I have been thinking of making a similar table with a mix between pine lumbar for the structure and then some sort of hard wood for the visual contact pieces.
Would you have a link tot he brass hinges you are using for the fold outs?
Most excellent work my friend!
Sure thing: www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT4YBI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_7Xk9EbWJ0JF15
Feel free to shop around, of course. I had to modify these a bit to get them to open the full 180 degrees.
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot perfect thanks!
Where did you get the strap hinges from? I cannot see to find them
I used these narrow twin pin sewing machine hinges: www.amazon.com/Narrow-Twin-Sewing-Machine-Hinge/dp/B001DT4YBI
I need a friend like you. I'm about to try to make a table which will be my first thing I'm ever building. This is going to be a disaster.
It will be fine, though I would suggest something slightly....less complex for a first build. :)
How did the build go.
can't follow it-no closed captioning.
I want to see a D&D table kinda like a pool table where there are holes for the player to drop a 20 and it goes down a tube to the DM into a tray where the DM can see the result but players don't.
Interesting idea. I wonder if you'd have to encase the dice in spheres and make them roll like D100s. D4s on their own don't like to roll down hill all that well. :)
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot no it would only be for D20 rolls like saves and checks
How much did that CNC cost you?
It is a Millright Carve King. Kits for this model start at $870, plus about $100 for the router, bits, etc. They have a smaller one, the M3, for $500.
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot less than I thought. Its comming out great though
Pardon my ignorance, I don't see any measurement references assigned to each piece on the 3D model. I'm trying to understand the inner divider length, outer divider length, overall length, and angle of the dividers.
The dividers are made from the same 1x8 oak as the trays themselves, but shortened by 3/4" so that when the tray is flipped up, it has a lip that rests on the backing. So 6 3/4" for both". The angle is 15 degrees. The inner divider will butt up against the back wall, and be flush with the front edge of the inner play surface. The outer divider will be flush with the inner edge, but 3/4 of an inch away from the outer edge. Does that help?
@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Thanks for getting back to me. I have another question. I assume you used the cnc machine to route out the length and depth to accommodate the flip top hinges. I don't have a CNC machine and chisels would take forever. Is there another method you recommend?
@@docburch55 Ah, gotchya. I actually didn't use my machine, I used a router table with a straight bit whose diameter matched the width of the hinge. (I think it was 1/2") I had to do a fair about of tests before I got the fence to the right spot, the bit to the right depth, and the stop I had clamped to the fence in the right position, as your cutting a groove blind and the pieces have odd angles. I did have to do 2 operations. One longer shallow cut for the main flat part of the hinge, and then a second, deeper cut that wasn't as long to accommodate the hinge pin area. I also used a chisel to square off the hinge pin area, and you'll need to be really careful if you also do that as the remaining wood is pretty thin and can crack easily.
If I did it again I'd probably do the shallower cut (which would be for the main, flat part of the hinge) the whole length of the part and then fill the excess with a contrasting wood strip. But, this worked out pretty good!
Hey guys what's up?!?!
If it comes out perfect the first time, it's not detailed enough
And it wouldn't be any fun!