The Rail and Accessories System for My Gaming table - and Making Two Dice Trays for it.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ส.ค. 2024
- This is how I made the rail and accessories system for my gaming table. The accessories are really handy for games like Warhammer 40k, Dungeons and Dragons, Frostgrave, and Kill Team, but I think they are helpful for a wide variety of tabletop and board games.
This video shows the technical and mechanical aspects of how the system works as well as me making two dice tray accessories to go with the other accessories I've already made.
This is the amazon link for the T slot router bit I used:
www.amazon.com/Yakamoz-T-Trac...
And here are the time stamps:
0:00 intro
1:22 Illustrations and Animations for how it works
7:16 Making the deeper dice tray
22:39 Making the dual dice tray - เกม
Thanks for the explanation of the tray-system. Im building a gaming table on my own and thats going to help a lot. Especially the Illustration!
Awesome! I’m glad it helped. That was the trickiest part for me to think through. Good luck on your build!
Thank you! Perfect 👍🏻
What a great idea! Use the saw fence for the router. Really nice compact work table. Thank for the idea. Awesome how you explain the rail system.
Thank you, I must admit, it’s an idea that I stole after seeing it in a few places 😁 I’m glad it was helpful! Good luck with your build if you do something similar 👍
Such an amazing video! Thank you for this
Thank you! Im glad it was helpful
Subscribed. I finally got a house I can call my own and I plan on turning 1/2 of the garage into a 40k gaming room. One of the main pieces will be the gaming table.
Question: do you feel that the center piece which gives support to the table leaves no space for leg room for people sitting at the center? I can see 6 people sitting around the table if you put 3 on each side. For 40k I think it is better to sit at the dead center at the long side of the table.
Do you think it is possible to come up with a sturdy design which leaves place for leg room in the middle?
Congratulations on the house! That sounds like it would be a cool dedicated gaming space.
I think there is room for some compromise or trade off with leg space and stability, but I would advise some caution. I think if I cut the legs of the table back completely out of the way for sitting that it would be pretty unstable. I do actually like sitting in that middle spot when I DM D&D games, though. I sit slightly off to one side with one leg outside the support leg of the table and then my other foot rests on the storage panel below. It feels pretty comfortable (at least for me) and I can access the drawer and rails underneath for minis or encounter pieces pretty easily. For 40k, I would be using that same space to put slain models back on the removable shelf, so that when I'm done, it's easier to put the army back on my storage rack.
I really think the best solution for this kind of thing is some kind of prototype. Even just blocking out your dimensions of the height of the table and the thickness of the support legs with cardboard or something would let you put a chair right up to where you're thinking of sitting and see if it feels comfortable for you.
I wanted to prioritize stability, so I opted for the maximum base of support, but I don't feel like it's the only way to make a gaming table like this. Test, test, test with a mock set up / prototype if you can and see what's good for you!
i'll admit i got lazy. i used aluminum extrusions like you see on 3d printers for the outside edges of my vault. then got metal pieces designed to slide into the rail like this and attached the accessories to that.
I wouldn’t call it lazy if it’s effective! 👍
Hi, I was thinking the same but I have no knowledge about aluminium, could you link the extrusions you used ?
Great vid! I am thinking about building my own gaming table with T-Tracks around the edges for trays and such- Now that you have had some time to live with the table and the trays, How well do they hold up? I am not overly concerned with aesthetics, so I am thinking of using an aluminum T-Track system recessed into a dado slot in the table with aluminum slot-in brackets fastened to wooden trays for added durability and strength- is that necessary in your opinion or is a T-system made completely from hardwood sufficient?
The rail system and trays have held up really well, even with my 3yo (at the time) playing around with them. I think both systems will work great for gaming, I mean they’re essentially the same mechanics/idea. I haven’t had any problems with durability, loosening, or breaking, and with as much as it’s been used, I dont expect any either. A t-track might be easier to put in, depending on available tools and experience with woodworking, so I would say you’re probably good with either one 👍
exit a rail can put and take in a T-track System? I Mean a U one? or something like that?
or a shape that can i 3d printed?
If you changed your order of operations on making the interface between the accessory and the rail, I think you could have had an easier time making these. If you started with the round over, most have a guide bearing, so you just raise the bit in your table until the profile is where you want it. Then you setup your dado stack (or even multiple passes with a regular table saw blade), or router bit for the straight cuts. You will need a cut the width of your top slot. After cutting the top slot, adjust your fence and make the lower cut. This way, your material is supported during most cuts, you only need two router bits (or one router bit and a table saw blade), and one fence adjustment.
That’s a really good idea! As I’ve gained more experience woodworking, I think about order of operations more now 🤦♂️😁
nice work. Ever have any issues with those edge lock pieces breaking off (the top of the S curve)? Seems like as long as you put the end grain toward the table it should be fine, but with larger accessories I wonder if that's enough support.
So far, they have held up and there have been no cracks or breaks 👍 I don’t have any measurement about what kind of force it can take, but I made some test pieces and kind of abused them to see how well they would hold and what it would take to break them… I was really surprised at how much force it could handle, and I feel like that “hands on” testing was the best way to know how well it would hold up. The bulky player desks that I made hold 2 or 3 books and take a little forearm lean from players while they write on the top, and so far, there have been no issues (knock on wood) 😁👍
As you said, I think they key is being aware of how they grain is oriented. That seems like the most important thing to me. Thanks for checking out the vid!
@@DiceyRolls Thanks, that's very helpful. I'm working on my table's accessory rails right now, and I'm about to toss my magnetic rail idea for this design since it looks more stable.
One of the things I am thinking about is to build an adjustable height table built on top of adjustable standing computer desks.
There's definitely something really appealing about adjustable height. The first thing that comes to mind is to make sure that it won't be too much weight to add on top of an existing adjustable height desk.
I had a similar idea for the gaming table 2.0. I want to make it a coffee table that converts from 30 inch by 44 inch and ~16 inch tall to 60 inch by 44 inch and ~30 inch tall for games (based on the new table size in 9th edition). It would be a different design than the one I have right now as I don't think the swing down leaves would look good as a coffee table (and wouldn't be effective for underneath storage in that configuration either). I'm still thinking the design through in my head, but I definitely plan on building it some day.
I hope your build goes well! Let me know if you run into other questions, and I'll try to help.
@@DiceyRolls You'd be surprised how strong the adjustable tables are. My computer table is from Fully (they are from Oregon, check them out www.fully.com). The mechanism can lift the table and my huge monitor no problem and I can sit on top of it. Although I have not tried to lift myself on it, it does lift my kids. They are on the expensive side though. And I am not sure they sell only the lifting mechanism (they have both motorized and by crank).
If I do build such a table, I will have to let go the adjustable size.
Nice! Sounds like it would do the trick just fine 👍 I’ve never worked with an adjustable desk and the weight was the first concern that entered my mind. That would be a really cool build to have an adjustable gaming table!
Great video. I imagine this would be quicker to make if one wasnt concerned about putting the trays directly in where you wanted. I was thinking just making the T track from one edge and then you can slide the accessories trays from the end all the way to where you wanted. Should be quicker to make, and may be a bit sturdier. Also debating just inserting a pair of bolts that fit the channel into the accessory as well.
Thank you! Yeah, I think doing the T track that way would be significantly quicker. One thing maybe to consider though, is that they will be locked in that track and possibly be more vulnerable when bumped into. Several times people have bumped mine when standing up and it just knocks them out of the track instead of putting pressure/force on that accessory and track connection. I dont think it would be a major issue with a little care and awareness, but it just made me think. Still, I think that’s a really cool idea 👍
@@DiceyRolls would they not be able to be removed with just a T channel? For sure would take more time to remove and we would prefer to have them off when not in use to limit possible damage
Yeah, you would always be able to remove them. Just when they’re in place, the head of the bolts (or whatever you’re using) will be captive in the channel.
@@DiceyRolls one final question. What size lumber is required for the T slot to be cut into? I assume a 1x4 is too shallow or would that work? I had designed my table in SketchUp and then realized it may be too shallow to cut the channel. Want to see if you think a 2x is needed instead.
Looking at making my own board game table. Did you find you needed to put the rail down a little from the edge of the table top to fit the accessories correctly? I am trying to figure out the distance from the top to get the accessories to roll in without the edges of the top getting in the way.
I’m not sure I understand your question correctly. For me, the rails and accessories are cut in such a way that the distance from the opening on the rail (that the accessories fit into) to the top of the table doesn’t interfere with putting the accessories in. Are you concerned about the tipped up position used to put an accessory in will be blocked by the table?
I love this idea, and i love the videos youve put out on youre process. What kind of wood did you use?
Thank you! I hope they were helpful. The wood is walnut. On the table and initial accessories, I used a walnut dye to help preserve its look and color, but with the second round of accessories, I just used finish, and I feel like they look great either way you go if you’re interested in it. Thank you for checking out the vids! 👍
I've been planning a table with this feature. **What kind of weight can these accessories hold?** I have a player that writes notes by hand and would need to place her arm on it. I was thinking that if it cracks or even bends too much for my taste, I could add a short L bracket to the bottom of the piece for more support.
I’ve found that it’s more resilient than I initially expected. Standing and leaning all your weight would surely break it, but my friends and I all rest our arms on the player desks while writing, and it hasn’t been an issue. My biggest piece of advice is to make sure the grain of the accessory piece is running perpendicular to the table and running in the direction of inward/outward from the table. Otherwise, I do believe the wood could easily fault/crack along the grain 👍
For the card holder slots, did you cut those with a router or on the tablesaw? Did you cut them at an angle?
I cut them on my table saw, the kerf of the blade worked out to be a good width, but I think a 1/16 inch touter bit would work well also. Mine are not at an angle, and I dont personally feel like I need or want one, but I think a 10-15 degree angle would work fine as well (and I bet some people would like it better). It might be a good idea to try a few variations on some test pieces and put some cards in them to see what you like best 👍
For reference, my slots are 1/8 inch. A 1/16 or 1/8 router slot would probably both work well
I’m limited to a circular saw, miter saw, and jigsaw. Is there anyway I could build something like this with those tools?
I think so, but it would be really tricky. It would require making the rail in pieces and glueing it up together. The really difficult part would be keeping things lined up. It’s hard to substitute anything but a router as the best tool for this job in my mind. One pass with the right bit and a stable fence will get you a rail with accurate dimensions along its entire length. Without it, consistency will be quite difficult.
Coming to this late...test stuff is cheaper now with cutting boards from Walmart and Dollar Tree.
One question, what tool did you use to hollow out the rail?
It was done with a T slot router bit on a router table. I think using a fence to keep it straight is pretty important for the functionality of the accessories 👍
@@DiceyRolls why did you make a T? it seems like you don't use the bottom half of the T
@@robslater8868 How would a router bit cut only one side as it cut through?
What it did you use to make the actual cutouts in the trays?
I used a router with a cove bit. I think it’s a good idea to work out the measurements to make a template/ guide for the router to make it easier to get a nice square or rectangle shape 👍
@@DiceyRolls how deep into the board did you ratio wise? 50% 30%? Im planning to make trays from 3/4" Maple (which will serve as the top rail) and dont want it to go too deep since players will also rest their arms on it. thoughts?
The “hook” on the lip of the trays… mine just keep breaking off. I’ve tried different sizes and it’s not working
Maybe check to make sure the wood grain of the trays is running perpendicular to the rail. If the wood grain of the tray is running in the same direction as the groove to make the “hook” then I think it will break very easily, but if it’s perpendicular it will be quite strong 👍
#booksaspuppets
Fantastic. 1.317 inches, nice round numbers. 😂 . Hearing this in EU, in metric, nothing is nice and round.