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Thanks! It was big enough we had to slightly disassemble my friend's house to get it into the basement.

I used this one: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07TZT3DQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Awesome, you are very welcome and I am glad I could help!

Thanks for the feedback, I'll turn it down in the next one.

Assuming you have the right size or the fittings came with adjustable nuts, sure.🤪

Fantastic! One thing I like about this method is how easy it is to adjust and change. How is your different?

I downloaded the model, imported it into Fusion 360, and then used its measuring tool.

It very likely may. If I recall correctly from when I did this I had both the P0447 and P0448 codes and both were cleared by this. However, I'd recommend inspecting the hoses connected to this area to make sure none of them are cracking or dry rotting with age. Perished hoses can also throw that error.

@@misaacson reason I ask I had took it to mechanic and they change vent control value 6 months late code reappear

It's Jayne from Serenity (the Firefly movie) during the opening credits sequence trying to convince Mal that he needs to bring grenades.

@@misaacson thank you! It was bugging me!

I had a nearby floor drain that I had the pipe lead to. Same one the condenser for the central air went to.

Not quite sure what you are asking, but I've never had to clean mine. The water from the Regen process normally heads out the half inch pipe out the back to a floor drain. Other than that I haven't had to do any bypass or cleaning, sorry.

Any details you'd like to see?

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Ummm just to actually see the finished table...more than a minute of video with loads of people obscuring it. :D

@@schwamieboy1 well, I do need to do a follow-up showing how it's holding up, and the addition of the last decorative parts. I can do a person free slow fly-by for that, too. It's been a while, the whole plague thing.

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Slow mo with B White playing would be fine. I'll light the candles and break open a bottle of tinto...

Sorry about that. I don't have access to an FX35. I would suggest doing a search on Google, etc, for an FX35 Service Manual or Workshop Manual. I was able to find one for the M with some digging, which allowed me to make this video.

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot I've dome some searching. My car though its giving me error code P0456 (light leak), i cleaned the gas cap and cleaned it.

Yeah, just having to walk around the front of the car each time I needed to get to something on the opposite side got old really quickly. Still, now we know clamshells=bad.

You are very welcome, thanks!

Yeah, it was a balance between hinge strength and joins strength. However, in the end it hasn't seemed to matter as the table has held up very well so far.

Sorry, I'll try to make a more step by step guide next time.

With all the covidness going on the friend who's house the table is at has been pretty isolated these past couple months, so I haven't been able to go over and check on the table, let alone play on it. I'll do one as soon as I can and as soon as it's safe to do so. Sorry about that. I will have more parts to add to the table when I can get over there!

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Thank you for the update. Cannot wait for the new parts and see it in action.

There haven't been any issues with the flip downs sagging or the hinges getting pulled out, so they are working great. I'd probably try to come up with a better way to secure the flaps, and make them out of a ply material (likely home made by stacking 1/4" stock), as one of them has taken a slight warp and doesn't sit flush. I'd also add in a few more connectivity options for the DM position. I do also have a feeling I am going to need to add a center leg some time in the future, but that shouldn't be too big of a deal and there isn't a sag yet. Most importantly I would do a better job measuring so we could get it into the basement without dismantling the house to make it fit. Sucker was like 4" too long.

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot those flip-up pieces on sides, Magnets can hold them together simple drill couple into each piece.

@@Jeffs40K I tried that first, though apparently with magnets that weren't strong enough, even though they had a 10lbs rating. Plus I would have ended up with magnets visible on the top and front when the table was closed, and that wasn't going to be the most pleasing look.

I've tried that a couple times on other projects, and at least with the 3M tape I have been using the smaller pieces get ripped off, and other edges are quite fuzzy. I was thinking of trying a vinyl material, like what those cutter machines use to make stencils. Have you had success in the past?

It's the overflow pipe. it starts there, then heads off towards the passenger side of the engine and ends in the coolant overflow/fill tank. Fragile little bugger. Check to make sure this matches your car and the pipe, but I think this is the replacement part you'll need: Item #3 on parts.jaguarpalmbeach.com/a/Jaguar_2010_XKR-Base-Coupe-50L-V8-AT/_52014_5992976/HOSES--PIPES/4740102.html (I am not affiliated with JPB in any way, they just have most of the parts available online and I haven't had any issues with my orders from them in the past.)

Interesting idea. I wonder if you'd have to encase the dice in spheres and make them roll like D100s. D4s on their own don't like to roll down hill all that well. :)

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot no it would only be for D20 rolls like saves and checks

I'd have to check on the model, but it's 55"

Making the world a better place.

The dividers are made from the same 1x8 oak as the trays themselves, but shortened by 3/4" so that when the tray is flipped up, it has a lip that rests on the backing. So 6 3/4" for both". The angle is 15 degrees. The inner divider will butt up against the back wall, and be flush with the front edge of the inner play surface. The outer divider will be flush with the inner edge, but 3/4 of an inch away from the outer edge. Does that help?

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Thanks for getting back to me. I have another question. I assume you used the cnc machine to route out the length and depth to accommodate the flip top hinges. I don't have a CNC machine and chisels would take forever. Is there another method you recommend?

@@docburch55 Ah, gotchya. I actually didn't use my machine, I used a router table with a straight bit whose diameter matched the width of the hinge. (I think it was 1/2") I had to do a fair about of tests before I got the fence to the right spot, the bit to the right depth, and the stop I had clamped to the fence in the right position, as your cutting a groove blind and the pieces have odd angles. I did have to do 2 operations. One longer shallow cut for the main flat part of the hinge, and then a second, deeper cut that wasn't as long to accommodate the hinge pin area. I also used a chisel to square off the hinge pin area, and you'll need to be really careful if you also do that as the remaining wood is pretty thin and can crack easily. If I did it again I'd probably do the shallower cut (which would be for the main, flat part of the hinge) the whole length of the part and then fill the excess with a contrasting wood strip. But, this worked out pretty good!

Will trade for Porsche Taycan. No low-ball offers. I know what I have.

Thanks so much! I am in the planning phase of the next project, which will be a smaller, round table. Just gotta finish the bathroom remodel first. :)

11 Nm. All the torque specs are on page 1,156 of the workshop manual: mega.nz/file/BJ9kXbiJ#9V1Zl7SAlgrXb7UvL5Zd0QQHTvowwjOvllah5wrRlXc

There is a need, and they normally are included. This particular toilet has a rubber gasket preinstalled that seals between the two. Some are separate, like what is shown here, www.plumbingsupply.com/images/tanktobowldiagram.jpg but will be included with the toilet when you buy it. Mine even included the wax seal for the base to the flange connection.

As different manufactures have different connectors, I'd need to know the make and model of your softener to even begin to look.

Very true, and a lesson on why you should keep your cool when doing auto repair. :)

Probably. It would likely take the mechanic 2-3 hours to replace, plus the part, which is around $125 and up. There would be coolant to drain and refill, etc. So yeah, that seems pretty on target.

Lucky for you that you can do your own work!

@@evagabor5 Lack of funds and desire to pay mechanics that much was a powerful motivator. Plus, a LOT of stuff is far easier than you'd expect.

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot How many miles did yours have to have to replace the pump? Mine has 49,749. Supposedly things dry out if not used enough.

​@@evagabor5 65,000 or so. Wasn't a fast leak, but certainly not something I wanted to leave for long.

I traced them back from the speakers. I think, though it was a while ago and I didn't write them down, they were black and then grey with a black stripe. Sorry I couldn't be more definitive.

Oh ok thank you ill try that tommorrow

Thanks! I am using these to have some fun and learn HitFilm a bit. Cropping all of the different versions of me was a huge pain. :)

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot Reminds me of those social distance party memes honestly, very well done!!!

Agreed, but for those whom sweating a pipe is a black art full of mystery and danger they'll be ok, and not hard or expensive to replace if they start dripping in 5-10 years.

It was a huge pain in the ass. Problem I think was that it had heat cycled enough times to be pretty well molded onto the flanges. I tried working around with a thin screwdriver and a pick to see if I could break the seal and loosen it up enough, but ultimately just got mad and cut it. Of course, I didn't realize at the time how expensive it would be to replace. Good luck!

How much did it all cost you? Many thanks in advance!

I *think* if I recall correctly it was the coolant overflow pipe, C2P13304, which is #17 on this page: parts.jaguarpalmbeach.com/a/Jaguar_2010_XKR-Base-Coupe-50L-V8-AT/_52014_5995252/RADIATOR--COMPONENTS/4740101.html

Serenity, during the opening landing sequence. This was shortly after "Define interesting" "Oh God oh God we're all gonna die?"

@@TrustMeImAnIdiot great line by Wash.