How To Remove The FJR1300 Air Injection System PAIR
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ย. 2024
- The PAIR Air Injection System on bikes is only for emissions control. Most people want to remove it to either stop the deceleration exhaust popping or simply clean up the engine bay. On my bike it was the latter. For the FJR1300 you can buy expensive blockoff plates or do it this way for under $10 using heater bypass caps available at most auto stores. You need (4) 1/2" and (1) 5/8 caps. For 2016+ you need to just leave the pump module plugged in and zip tie it out of the way to prevent a code.
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Makes cleaning alot easier, looks good. One of my favorite youtubers.
Thank you, this is by far the easies way to remove the AIS on most bikes by blanking the caps, trouble with removing the plates is you as many have experienced have stripped one of the reed valve cover bolts which make it a real pain,
your solution is A++++
Thank you so much again and again for your videos and for everything you are doing foe TwoWheel family :-) You are the best!!
Hey bud, just finished watching a bunch of your on board bike reviews. Great stuff. Im on my 5th bike now and have been thinking of getting something new. you reviewed the 3 bikes I had in mind and covered all the concerns I had about them. just wanted to say thank you for your videos.
Thanks Bryan
Can it be that the number of cover caps has been reversed?Can it be that we need 4 of the big and 1 small ones?
Love the videos
Thanks might do that to my bike.Only 3 pipes to worry about. Also have a 4 into 1 exhaust pipe.
I have a 2014 model as well the odometer 83k l have done the rubber end caps option and did some testing to what the valve does and behaves and wanted to share what I found. the valve only closes at 2000 rpm and higher its fully open when cold and hot and when idling and under this rpm. it literally open closes instantly at 2000 rpm and like popping the throttle quickly. so I can assume that lets say you have bad reed valves etc that don't fully close the engine could be sucking that exhaust vapour back into the intake when idling and below 2000 rpm. another time in the future I will actually pull off the covers and inspect the reed valves. I already can see lots of black crap in the pipes at cylinder 2 and 3
Would the electrical connection that is left be an opportunity for switched power access?
Hi Bryan, great video as usual!! Gets my mind in the right place when taking apart my precious :-) I read in the comments in some cases the engine light may come on after the electronics is unplugged. Can you confirm for your bike, this happened and if so, what did you do about it? (it says to plug it back into the pump and hide it somewhere?). Or did you not get the engine light (code)?
Hi Robert. I read in the FJR forum that FJR generation 4 will throw an engine check light. To bypass this, leave the cable attached, and the four hoses removed.
For the case of Bryan, his motorcycle seems like a generation 3, and I believe that there will be no engine check light for his case of remove the air induction system completely.
Does this leave any kind of fault code (trouble code) on bike, engine check light etc.? electric plug just leave it with nothing?
16+ you need to leave the sensor plugged in, out of the way. That's all
Feel stupid - removed tank, removed emissions system just like Brian showed….easy! But NOW I can’t remember which of the two tank snap plugs went where - after I reconnect the fuel line, is the WHITE plug in the middle and the GREEN goes on the end or vice versa?? I have a 2020 ES….
From Bryan's how to check valve clearance video, the white is on the left, and green is on the right. Might be different from your bike, and I hope your motorcycle is okay by now!
Hello Brain question from the Netherlands. Why would hou remove the air injection system???
As what Bryan mentioned, there will be subtle deceleration pops.
Loving your channel Brian!!! Bought a 2005 FJR two weeks ago with 43k miles on it. Slowly making my way through your channel since I found it last week. What years does this apply to? In your opinion on what you have heard in person, what exhaust seems to sound the best on these bikes? I’m leaning hard towards Delkevic. Seems like they have a nice deep tone to them
Greetings i bought an 06 (gen II) 3 months ago...I've put 6k on the bike since. My favorite mod so far is my Delkevis I think I got the 9 inch oval s70 ... deep and full...no drone....great price
Great tip thank you so much, following the channel
Great video. I’ll be doing this this weekend. Would the 3/8” caps fit over the pipes better, eliminating the need for the zip ties? I bough the same packs you did so I have the 3/8” available. Thx for the help.
No, too tight and they would crack. Zero issue with zip ties.
Thx Brian.
Thanks Bryan. Great video. I did the same to my 2017 after watching your video. Everything went well however after starting my engine, the engine light on the display turned on. Bike runs great but light is annoying. Any idea if the pair removal had anything to do with this engine light going on?
Leave the pump plugged in and just relocate it
plug a delete box into the loom .....
This site is my "go to" prior to any bike work. If I blank off the air induction on my Gen III and disconnect the solenoid will I get an error code as reported elsewhere? If so is there a work around?
I've read the FJR forum and this is common for FJR generation 4. To bypass this, only leave the cable connected, and the leave the hoses remain disconnected.
I removed the PAIR ON my 2017 triggered a check engine light. Reset and put a jumper on the solenoid plug, no CEL on start up. But not sure what implications of running with the jumper in place. Anyone experience this.
I've read the FJR forum and this is common for FJR generation 4. To bypass this, only leave the cable connected, and the leave the hoses remain disconnected.
Sorry if I seem ignorant so this is your SAV or secondary air valve assembly? I have a Korean Hyosung GT250R with FI code 0137 which according to the manual is the SAV solenoid. I’m sure mine is similar to this if I cap off like you are doing will the code go away? If not I’ll just replace the valve
I believe you need to use an OBD to clear the code away, but first, you would probably have to get it connected again. I hope you got your motorcycle running fine by now!
Hello, I am a subscriber to Korea.
My bike, FJR1300 2008 70.000KM. There's gasoline in the tank, but suddenly the gas indicator on the instrument panel turns on, and the whole car flashes to start and doesn't start. What should I check first? When you turn on the key, you should hear the fuel motor running, but it doesn't sound like that way. I've done it with Naver translator. Please give me an answer that I can help you with
Check electrical connectors under gas tank? If you turn on the ignition key with these connectors unplugged the gas gauge will flash.
Hey I've Got An 2006 Fjr1300 I Just Bought Where Do I Find The Ecu?
Get the service manual......it's all there.
Good video! Do the FJR'S of recent have a catalytic converter within the exhaust? I have read that removing an air injection system on a bike that has a catalyzer will cause excessive heat and kill the catylizer. I don't know if this is b.s. or not. Can someone confirm whether this is true or not? I have a Yamaha WR250R and a few KTM's that have both and I was considering removing the air injection on all of them.
Complete BS. They have always had a cat.
TwoWheelObsession
Thanks for dispelling this myth. I've been a subscriber for quite a while. Keep up the great work!
Hello! I'm currently working on my brother's 2008 FJR1300A, and I bought the same "bypass cap" kit(s) that you used in this video. I am curious about something, though:
You said in the video that you used four 1/2" caps on the 90-degree air induction metal pipes that come off of the cylinder head, and one 5/8" cap at the airbox connection. Well, maybe the Gen2 has different sized 90-degree air induction pipes than the Gen3, but I was unable to get the 1/2" caps on without using considerable effort--and actually, one of the caps split when I was trying to get it on. So, I used the 5/8" caps instead, which all slid right over the 90degree pipes, and were just slightly bigger inner diameter than the 90-degree pipes' outside diameter themselves. So, what I'm curious about is that you, too, mentioned in the video that the inside diameter of the caps that you placed on the 90 degree pipes was slightly larger than the pipes' outside diameter themselves, so I'm thinking that you may have made a mistake in saying that you used the 1/2" caps, but in reality you used the 5/8" caps? I know the kit came with 2 caps of each size, with 3/8", 1/2", 5/8", and 3/4" sized caps, and there is no way that the 3/8" or 1/2" caps would fit on with room to spare! Also, the 1/2" caps have a much thinner wall thickness than the 5/8" caps do! That is another reason why I think you used the 5/8" caps, because the caps in your video look exactly the thickness of the ones I placed on mine! Lastly, I was able to get a 5/8" cap on the airbox connection as well; it was nice and tight, and the OEM clamp fit snuggly over it!
I just want to make sure I used the correct caps! So, if you could confirm/deny all of this, then I would greatly appreciate it! Thanks!
Just did this on my 2018 and sadly it triggered a check engine light. I figure I gotta reinstall the valve but keep hoses off.
Sonic moto Did leaving the valve plugged it keep the check engine light from coming back on. I want to do this to my 2018 fjr also.
Did you ever figure out how to keep the engine light off? I just did this to my 2017 FJR and I have an engine light on.
@@joshuaborlesch4735 Reading from the FJR forum, leaving the valve plugged in would prevent the engine check light from coming on. Unless the engine check light is already on, plugging the valve probably wouldn't clear it away. You would need an on board diagnostic (OBD) tool for that.
@@nilomaniquis83 You would have to disconnect the hose, and leave the cable plugged, but now that you have an engine check light on, you would need an on board diagnostic (OBD) tool to clear the engine check light away.
Hi Brian do you have a video on how to remove this on the FZ09? Also do you know where to adjust the headlights on the FZ09 as well? Mine seem to be a little low. Thanks!
It depends on the year. Up to 16 you just had to get the ecu flashed. 17 and later also requires blockoff plates. Headlights depend on the year, it’s in the manual where the screws are
TwoWheelObsession thank you and it’s a ‘17. I installed the Akrapovic full exhaust and expected a meaner sound and to me it doesn’t sound much different than stock. That’s where I thought removing the air injection would help. Also do I need to reflash the ECM since I installed the exhaust?
No, removing the AIS will not do anything like that. All it will do is stop the popping on decelleration. The only way to change the sound is remove the baffle from the exhaust. In which case yes you would need a flash - but not with the baffle in.
TwoWheelObsession Ok thank you for your reply. I didn’t see a baffle for that exhaust and didn’t show one in the instructions but will check again. Thanks again!
TwoWheelObsession I’m looking to buy the manual now and found one but in one of your videos you mention there is a error in one of them so the manual was revised. I can’t find that video ( you have so many) so what am I looking for to get the correct one for the ‘17? Thanks!
There’s no benefit in doing this in my opinion. I’ve done it on previous bikes because others did the same but saw zero difference. Well the only difference was the engine took longer to reach operating temperature.
I've been contemplating on doing this since I have aftermarket exhaust, since Bryan mentioned that it is more pronounced in aftermarket pipes than stock ones.