You sir, are awesome. I have never worked on a motorcycle before that past few months and thanks to you I have confidently changed the oil, gear oil, flushed the coolant, flushed the brakes. Today I am feeling proud as I threw in new spark plugs in and did a TBS. My 2008ae is just humming! Thank you for all of your work in putting these videos together, guys at my level are greatly appreciative.
I just did this for my 2013 FJR1300A - I would never have had the nerve to try but for this video. On mine, #3 was the one not to touch. The hardest thing was seeing the darn screw on #3 which had the white paint. Putting the little rubber covers back on, I nearly lost the first one which came awfully close to going down a hole. I then got smart and threaded a long piece of dental floss (all I could find) through the holes in the little wire clamps. Once installed, I just pulled out the floss - no worries and easier, in fact, than using it on my teeth. Thanks very much for all the help you provide to so many!
I'm just about to buy a used FJR 1300 and your videos are a great help. I really appreciate people like you that take your personal time to do quality videos for the rest of us. I'm sure you heard it before but thank you so much. I learned so much from your channel, and I now feel very confident about buying a used FJR 1300 and not having to run to the gargage for the maintenance.
Great video. I have added the Helibar risers to my FJR and this added a little complexity as they stop the tank from swinging up as shown in your video. However there is a way to overcome this without messing with the handlebar setup. Undo the two screws that secure the tank near the handlebars. Now remove the accessory tray where the manual and tool box are located (there are 5 fasteners, 2 bolts up front, two screws in the rear and a screw in the compartment where the tools are kept. Take out the tray (push it towards the back and then lift). Now undo the bolts that hold the bar that supports the tank hinge. There are 6 in total. First remove the two under the back of the tank. The other 4 connect the bar which secures the tank hinge to the frame, there are two on each side. Remove the most forward on each side first. Now remove the two at the back but support the back of the tank with your hand while doing this so it doesn't move. Now gently slide the tank back so the front on holes in the bar align with the rear holes in the frame. Put two bolts back in (one either side) two secure the bar on the bike. Now the tank will clear the helibars allowing you to hinge it out of the way. when you have done with the throttle bodies put the tank back down and udo the bolts allowing the tank to slide back to its original position. Replace bolts back to original position, put the accessory tray back etc.
2009 FJR (Raven Black) here. OK, I have worked on my Triumph race bikes for years but neglected the FJR (except for suspension maintenance and oil changes), which just flipped 34,000. Started watching your videos this weekend. Wow, this bike is easy to work on! THANK YOU for taking all of this time and effort to share them!
2023-07. I know its a few years since you did this video but I was doing the 16,000 mile service on my 2019 FJR today and I have the Carbtune tool but one issue I ran into while doing this. The setting on the throttle body with the white paint on the screw - #2 in my case - is set such that the adjustment screws on the other throttle bodies hit their limit stops before they are able to match the vacuum being pulled by #2. They are not a million miles off but not as close as some I have seen. Not sure if anyone else has encountered this problem and what they did about it - advice would be welcome. By the way your videos are awesome. Today I did the full 16,000 mile service on my bike just from your videos - saved me buying a shop manual. The only thing I have not done are the steering and rear suspension bearing repack/re-greasing - this is because I live up in Canada and will wait until the non-riding months of winter to do the service on those. The only thing I did a bit differently - I unbolted and moved the fuel tank back right out of the way to change the spark plugs as it gave me a bit more room to work - particularly for pulling the spark plug connectors off. Putting the rubber carb vacuum nipple covers on - I wetted them with my tongue and they pushed on very easily by hand.
Thank you for taking the time to make these vids, you are absolutly great at it , perfect at doing it in a way that makes it so easy to follow and understand, honestly, thank you
I cannot thank you enough! You've given me the confidence to do that oil change, adjust levers, and now I completed my first throttle body sync Saved so many$$ thankyou
I recently did this on my FJ-09 with the CarbTune Pro that I found on Amazon. It was really easy and I was able to perform the whole procedure in 1 1/2 hours. My bike was actually in spec, but I did some fine tuning and now it's perfect. The tool and service manual costs less than the dealer would charge.
Just finished checking the throttle body sync on my 2017 after watching Bryan’s video. At 13,800 they did not need any adjustment. I would not have attempted this without the video. One hour and twenty min start to finish. Thanks for all the great videos!
Much thanks to Bryan for these tech videos. I checked the sync on my 2015 FJR at 600 miles. Mine was fine from the factory. By the way, the computer shows my fuel mileage since day one is over 50 MPG....substantially higher than what most folks expect.
I've been a cigarobsession fan four years, and I've watched almost every motorcycle obsession Video as they've come out, heck I was even an hlo fan! but I gotta say it's pretty cool to see one of your videos from the perspective of a random person, as I just searched throttle body sync and was surprised to see your video. thanks man!
Wow, incredible resource. I have an 05' and also an 18' . The differences have made me leery of doing this on the 18', but seeing this gives me resolve
Thank you for the great video. I watched it several times before doing this. Lost one vacuum cap (like you said disappeared) but I was able to buy replacements at the local automotive store. Thanks again for all you do for the FJR community!!
Did the job...a little difficult to reinstall the rubber cap... I suggest passing a small thread in the loop of the spring, as the rubber cap and spring can easily fly off and be lost when installing. But the job is very feasible and saves a lot of money. Tanks for the instruction video. On my bike, a 2016 ES, the "master cylinder" is number one (on the left of the bike) and the screw is clearly marked with a dab of white paint.
Loved your Cigars reviews, we have similar tastes. And now I realize we both live FJRs as well. No nonsense videos just like with Cigar Obsession, no ego, just facts and opinions. Wish you'd make more of them all audiences reviews and tutorials
I just wanted to say thank-you so much for taking the time to create these videos. I've the same model as yours, in black. Your videos are comprehensive enough to easily follow along on my own bike maintenance. Again, thanks so much.
Hi, thank you for this video, it helped me immensely and I probably would not have attempted doing this job without it. Doing it myself not only saved me a few hundred dollars on my 600 mile service, even after buying all the tools, but I know it was done and not just ticked off on a list. I did find that I could not manage to either get the rubber caps off, or get to the adjustment screws, by merely tilting the tank. I am still not quite sure how you managed that. I had to take the pivoting bolt out and move the tank back, as well as pivoting it, to get enough space. That extra step really isn't difficult and I am sure saves more hassle than it causes, at least for me. One more thing of note is that the tank does not have to have much fuel in it. The fuel line runs from the back of the tank and is at the bottom when the tank is tilted back.
Thanks so much for this video! It took me about an hour including buttoning every thing up and putting the tools away! My 2013 Gen III had white paint on the left most adjustment screw so I didn't touch that one. I used a SynchroKing digital carb and throttle body balancer to get all four within 1 mmHg. Highly recommended!
I'm back to riding after 20 years away and really wanted to do the work and maintenance myself. Dude, your videos are SOOOOOOOO helpful. Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort on these tutorials. They're really incredibly helpful. I'm curious, what brand vacuum gauge are you using, and where can you get them?
Awesome video. After watching it I ordered a Carbtune myself. Can't wait for it to come in so I can do this procedure also. One item to note. My bike is a little older. It is a 2008. My service manual says to use the #3 cylinder as the standard and only adjust 1,2,4. Sounds like this changed on the newer models but since you don't want the standard tied to the computer to get out of whack, I figured I would mention it for other guys that find this video and have a GenII also.
smithpa68 Yes - if I wasn't clear - it varies bike to bike. Always check your manual for the instructions. Some will give a specific number, others like mine say look for the paint mark. It can be anywhere!
Well done sir, keep up the good work. I'm relieved that it is a relatively easy procedure. My confidence in syncing, after viewing this DIY video, has increased 10 fold. Thanks!
Ha ! - I bought all the tools around May this year but was a bit scarred and wasn't sure I can do it by myself - right now I'm sure I can do it - will sync my bike this Saturday :-) ! Great Video !
I recently acquired a new to me 2008 FJR1300. I love the bike. I rode it home out of state about 800 miles and at first the test ride manifested no issues. Seller took fantastic care of bike and I have pages and pages of service history etc. However the closer home I got the freeway exits were met with increasing difficulty downshifting. It upshifts just fine. Clutch does not slip and fluid reservoir is full and clean. Seller did mention not too long ago he had the slave cylinder (I think thats what he called it) changed and new fluid. I have ridden bike around town twice since long trip and the downshifting is now constant. If I downshift a gear per every 5-10 seconds or more, it seems ok. But downshifting as you naturally would when coming to a stop isnt possible. Even when stopped, it just wont downshift; have to launch in whatever gear it came to a stop in. Any suggestions?
Some bikes have this, it's not unique to the FJR. It's caused by the way the dogs line up. If you're unlucky, they line up such that they can't engage the lower gear. Because the transmission isn't spinning when stationary, they never will line up unless you do something about it. Try to shift down to 1 before stopping. Otherwise, when it won't shift when stationary, let out the clutch a little bit until you hear a clunk, then try shifting again. You can also let out the clutch a bit while keepnig pressure on the shift lever. Then it'll shift with the clunk. The clunk you hear is some driveline lash being taken up when the clutch starts to engage, this usually rotates the gearbox enough so the dogs align differently, allowing the shift.
Really enjoyed the video.In my manual it says models 2001-2012 , it is the number 3 throttle body which is the base one to which all the others are matched too.Did it change after 2012.
Hey Thanks. Just traded mt Honda st-1300 for an FJR after 90,000 miles. I did not have to do this procedure on the ST, probably because it has a single throtle body. Thanks for explaining so clearly. I will attempt to do it; I wonder however if the cost was really $700 as you mention. Of course as you say this the 600 miles inspection which includes 2 oil change and the dealer likely will claim a lot of other verifications for that price but as we know they amount to very little time. Thanks a lot I find your video excellent...will be back.
Nice vid! I'm considering replacing my Suzuki Bandit 1250 with a '13 or '14 FJR, so was curious about how doing a throttle body sync compared. Looks a little trickier since my Bandit uses hoses on the vacuum ports, which are easier to remove and reinstall than those little caps with the spring clips. On an FJR, I might need to have a beer while doing this to steady my hands for the rubber caps removal/reinstall!
Just because the previous owner didn't know how it comes off, doesn't mean the grommet requires effort. He probably didn't know about the end slide tabs.
Nice video, thanks man! I'm the proud new owner of a Yamaha FZ 07, and I am a bit perturbed to find out that this procedure has to be done to my new motorcycle at the 600 mile mark, and every 4000 miles thereafter. I'm having a helluva time figuring out where I can purchase that special gauge. I don't want to make some janky homemade manometer.
Great videos by the way. Please keep them up. Do you have a video for a FJR 1300, 2006. How to take off you petrol tank. To take out the fuel pump and clean. Many thanks.
Thank you for posting these videos. I'm no mechanic, but you have saved me thousands in shop fees with these DYI videos! ( Spark plug change, oil change, sync, etc). What is the make and model of the synchronization tool that you use? Thanks again my friend.
Thank you for the great help...Was a pretty easy job as I had done many carb syncs but I could have done the oil change at least twice for the time it took me (I must be a clux). Keep up the good work.
Thank you. You answered a lot of questions I had about this process. The only other question I still have is, is there an adjustment needed for the actual throttle cable; after all one cable is responsible for opening all four throttle bodies?
Thank you for putting the time and effort into making these vids! This particular one helped me a great deal. I've done TB sync on other bikes, but it makes it that much easier to know the specific locations on any given machine. P.S. I found the small, thin screwdriver to work better for cylinders 2 and 3. Nearly impossible to get in there with a long one.
Thanks very much Bryan! I am not mechanically inclined however I think this looks do-able thanks to your video. Safe to say a good, easy to understand service manual is a necessity for a variety of jobs. Any suggestions from you or your viewers about which one or where to pick it up? Thanks again!
Thanks for the great vid. Gave me the confidence to tackle this simple job on my FJR. I had no problems and was able to pull all the caps off by hand. 1 question though, In syncing carb 2, the screw is all the way in to the stop. If it is out of sync next time and needs to go that direction, what should I do? Will be syncing my FZ1 tomorrow. Thanks again!
Great Video. Taken all the apprehension away. Just wanted to ask where I might buy a meter for a 2015 Yamaha FJ 09 three cylinder. Thanks again for the info very helpful.
Thanks dude! I need to do this because when I crack my throttle it's not as responsive as it should be. Recommendations where to buy the tool or can you rent them?
Hey Bryan, awesome video. I have a question. I have an FJR 1300 FROM 2004. How do I know what generation it is? In order to know where my master cylinder is.
Great video. Have watched quite a bunch of them. About time to start executing some of the lessons learned. Question though, in this video you mention that cylinder #1 is the reference. When I opened my Gen II Service Manual, it says "With throttle body #3 as standard, adjust throttle bodies #1, #2 and #4 using the air screw". Confusion kicked in a bit now.
Thought as much. Cheers for the clarification. Because the maintenance status of my bike is unknown (imported from another country), gonna have a thorough inspection done including fluids exchange and valve clearance check. Will keep the spark plug exchange and throttle body adjustment to myself. Sounds like a cool little project to do, together with a buddie of mine.
You say in your video that the reading from the #1 carburetor is the one to use to adjust the other throttle bodies. My service manual clearly states that throttle body #3 is to be used as the 'standard'. It was the same on other motorcycles I have had the pleasure to 'sync'. The third carburetor, the one closest to the throttle cables, is the one that can't be adjusted and therefore is the one to sync to. My FJR is an '06, perhaps things are different on your newer machine, but I doubt it.
+Vince Wazonek and you would be wrong. Gen 3 can be any of them, you have to look for the white screw. As I said check your service manual for your specific instructions
Hi. What does this white screw do? My service manual makes no mention of a white screw. It does read: " With throttle body #3 as standard, adjust throttle bodies #1, #2, and #4 using the air screw "1" ( there are 4 "1" brass air screws, one on each carburetor). I'm using a Motion Pro 'Sync Pro tool to sync the throttle bodies. The tool has to be calibrated on one of the cylinders prior to starting the synchronization process. They specify in the instructions that you calibrate the tool to the non adjustable master carburetor or throttle body. My service manual states that would be throttle body number 3. No mention anywhere of a white screw. Thanks for your feedback.
Thank you for another great tutorial! One question though. I have a 2015 fJR using the Carbtune Pro. While idling, I was getting pulsations plus or minus 1 cm/hg. Your carbtune didn't seem to pulsate quite as much as mine. I'm using the supplied restricters placed aprox 4" from the end of the hose (engine side). Any idea what could be causing my gauge to pulsate more than normal? Again, thanks for great "how to" vid.
Hi, awesome video. I have a question. The place where my bike is being serviced diagnoses the problem: "Problem with fuel map sensor and throttle bodies, requiring full clean and decarbonise . Replacement spark plugs also required ". I have replaced spark plugs 10 000kms ago. Is it really necessary to replace them again when the bike was starting up normally or they just want to use more parts to make more money? Thanks in advance.
Many thanks for this video and the others. I am a fan of your work. One question about the sync, you did the sync at idle rpm. What about doing the sync at a common cruising rpm? Say 4000 or 4500 rpm? I have had several bikes where owners would say it was best to sync the throttle bodies at typical cruising rpm (and sometimes at cruising rpm plus idle rpm if there were separate idle rpm and cruising rpm adjusters). Usually cruising rpm was considered the more important sync because that's where the engine is operating most of the time. Thanks again. Your videos are very interesting as this one is.
I am having surging issues at low rpm which you said is often the TPS, possibly on another one of your videos. I plan to replace it myself, h ow do I enter diagnostic mode on my 2014 to set the idle resistance? And thank you for your videos!
use wanted to clarify that the tool model you use is a carbtune pro 4 and I have a 2014 fjr so is it safe to assume number 1 is my factory standard as well I was just about to order bar ends because the vibration is horrible 20 miles of riding and I can't feel my right hand definitely will try this first thanks for the videos they are awesome
HI Dear wonderful video. Want to ask is any 4 cylinder liquid power MOTION PRO SyncPRO Carb Tuner Synchronizer Tool with 5mm adapters will do the work. Thank you.
I just followed your instructions for my 2015 FJR. On your video, the vacuum rods are not fluctuating a lot. Mine were bouncing around so it was difficult to get them exactly in sync. At least I was able to keep them bouncing between the lines. Why were yours so steady?
Thank you. I ordered it several months ago after watching your video and put it in the tool drawer. I didn't take time to read the instructions. I found the restrictor tube. You always provide helpful information.
Help please. I just got some weird symptoms. when I keep speed , dont move throttle or set cruise controle( between 20 to 70mph) my bike get kicks. like missing cilinder or something. on iddle its ok around 1100-1200 rev. when I slow down by let it go its fine. when I speeding up its fine. only happen when I keep the same speed. So I don't know what that could be. Throttle Body Syn?? I have the same 2015. please give some agvice where to look. BTW your vids are great and many pleople find it sooo helpfull
After watching your video I followed the instructions on my '07 and based the adjustments off #1. Later I discovered that it should have been based off #3. None were much off at all and all that was done was minor fine tuning. Do I have a problem here? I haven't ridden the bike, but in the shop it idles and runs fine.
Thx for posting. I tried to handle this job today on a 2004 model - the adjustment baseline there is cylinder #3 which might indeed be due to the different build (adjustment screws are also on a slightly different location and go in sideways). Issue that I face however is that the Hg colons would not steady out. Even after the engine settled to a normal idle of 1050 revs/sec it kept on swinging high and low albeit less hectic than with the cold engine. I wonder if my carbtune pro is toast (newly bought last week so I doubt that) or something else is awry. Maybe I need a valve adjustment but this is a very low mileage bike despite its age (32000 Km) so I also question that "direction". It kinda looks like the vacuum level isn't kept at a constant value all the time (valve leaks?) Cheers /R
Turns out I forgot to insert the tiny plastic restrictors - that might help to settle it - Advise to Morgan UK would be to add a big highviz sticker on the tool making sure that ignorants like me read the manual .....doh
Hi, great explanation and really easy to follow and you are right the process is straightforward and saves money and improves confidence in DIY motorcycle maintenance. Just one question, referenc3 was made to #1 cylinder for aligning the vacuum, however I notice on the FJR forum, reference is made to #3? - any thoughts. Thanks again for this and the many other great tips and guidance. Regards Rick Isle of Man Road racing capital FJR1300AS
Great video and it was easy to do but I have one question. I bought the same gauge as you have and the gauge tubes were not as settled as yours. They bounced up and down, but I was still able to set them all the same. Just wondering if something might be wrong with my gauge?
@@TwoWheelObsession yup. Something o usually do but didnt this time. Lol my bad. Just finished doing the tune again and everything worked out perfectly this time. Lol thanks again for the awesome video!
TwoWheelObsession Really appreciate that you share your knowledge and I know you took a lot of time to make the video. I need to buy you a beer or two.
I have a Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 and misplaced/lost the clear restrictors. Do you know where I can buy some or what I can use to replace them with something else?
Hi, and thanks for all your efforts to make these instructive vids!! Big fan! Did my first sync on my -06 FJR today, and noticed to my horror that the previous owner had torn the top of the rubber cap on the vacuum pipe so it was fully open!! I've been riding it for some 15000 km's now, and have no idea when it last was synced. They were very good in sync (198) except for the one without cap which was 193. I had to turn the screw all the way in, but still couldnt reach further than 197. Should i worry, and is the only way to tear the hole tb apart to be able to clean it. It has litterary been working as a vacuum cleaner for a long time now😢, and the space around the tb is rather dirty with road dust. Whats your opinion? Cheers from Sweden!
TwoWheelObsession I understand. The one thing I never see anyone talking about is cleaning the throttle bodies prior to syncing them, especially in high milage bikes. I'm a car mechanic and in many new cars the throttle body does learn and compensate for dirt but after cleaning many times I have to perform a relearn procedure. This is for electronic throttle bodies of course. My point is this: If the "master cylinder" is out of spec and you sync all other cylinders to it wouldn't you be putting all cylinders out of spec then?
I have yet to see or even hear of an FJR with dirty throttle bodies. And yes, everything would be out - that's why like I said - you don't touch the master.
TwoWheelObsession Look I don't mean to offend but you need to look for a better answer than "you just don't touch the " reference cylinder" or master or whatever you want to call it. You are not dealing with children here... Do you know why?
It’s not a pita, people that don’t know how think it is though. I just did it for a guy the other day, another one is coming tomorrow. Takes me 15 min. Book spec is every 4k and I end up doing it when I start to feel vibration, usually a little more than that.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
You sir, are awesome. I have never worked on a motorcycle before that past few months and thanks to you I have confidently changed the oil, gear oil, flushed the coolant, flushed the brakes. Today I am feeling proud as I threw in new spark plugs in and did a TBS. My 2008ae is just humming! Thank you for all of your work in putting these videos together, guys at my level are greatly appreciative.
I just did this for my 2013 FJR1300A - I would never have had the nerve to try but for this video. On mine, #3 was the one not to touch. The hardest thing was seeing the darn screw on #3 which had the white paint. Putting the little rubber covers back on, I nearly lost the first one which came awfully close to going down a hole. I then got smart and threaded a long piece of dental floss (all I could find) through the holes in the little wire clamps. Once installed, I just pulled out the floss - no worries and easier, in fact, than using it on my teeth. Thanks very much for all the help you provide to so many!
I'm just about to buy a used FJR 1300 and your videos are a great help. I really appreciate people like you that take your personal time to do quality videos for the rest of us. I'm sure you heard it before but thank you so much. I learned so much from your channel, and I now feel very confident about buying a used FJR 1300 and not having to run to the gargage for the maintenance.
Your videos are a savior with my FJR. You never assume somebody knows how to do something and give us the benefit of the doubt
Great video. I have added the Helibar risers to my FJR and this added a little complexity as they stop the tank from swinging up as shown in your video. However there is a way to overcome this without messing with the handlebar setup. Undo the two screws that secure the tank near the handlebars. Now remove the accessory tray where the manual and tool box are located (there are 5 fasteners, 2 bolts up front, two screws in the rear and a screw in the compartment where the tools are kept. Take out the tray (push it towards the back and then lift). Now undo the bolts that hold the bar that supports the tank hinge. There are 6 in total. First remove the two under the back of the tank. The other 4 connect the bar which secures the tank hinge to the frame, there are two on each side. Remove the most forward on each side first. Now remove the two at the back but support the back of the tank with your hand while doing this so it doesn't move. Now gently slide the tank back so the front on holes in the bar align with the rear holes in the frame. Put two bolts back in (one either side) two secure the bar on the bike. Now the tank will clear the helibars allowing you to hinge it out of the way. when you have done with the throttle bodies put the tank back down and udo the bolts allowing the tank to slide back to its original position. Replace bolts back to original position, put the accessory tray back etc.
2009 FJR (Raven Black) here. OK, I have worked on my Triumph race bikes for years but neglected the FJR (except for suspension maintenance and oil changes), which just flipped 34,000. Started watching your videos this weekend. Wow, this bike is easy to work on! THANK YOU for taking all of this time and effort to share them!
2023-07. I know its a few years since you did this video but I was doing the 16,000 mile service on my 2019 FJR today and I have the Carbtune tool but one issue I ran into while doing this. The setting on the throttle body with the white paint on the screw - #2 in my case - is set such that the adjustment screws on the other throttle bodies hit their limit stops before they are able to match the vacuum being pulled by #2. They are not a million miles off but not as close as some I have seen. Not sure if anyone else has encountered this problem and what they did about it - advice would be welcome. By the way your videos are awesome. Today I did the full 16,000 mile service on my bike just from your videos - saved me buying a shop manual. The only thing I have not done are the steering and rear suspension bearing repack/re-greasing - this is because I live up in Canada and will wait until the non-riding months of winter to do the service on those. The only thing I did a bit differently - I unbolted and moved the fuel tank back right out of the way to change the spark plugs as it gave me a bit more room to work - particularly for pulling the spark plug connectors off. Putting the rubber carb vacuum nipple covers on - I wetted them with my tongue and they pushed on very easily by hand.
Thank you for taking the time to make these vids, you are absolutly great at it , perfect at doing it in a way that makes it so easy to follow and understand, honestly, thank you
I cannot thank you enough! You've given me the confidence to do that oil change, adjust levers, and now I completed my first throttle body sync
Saved so many$$ thankyou
+Sam Galaxy thanks for watching!
Can I use that tool for my 2014 Yamaha R1? Thankx
I recently did this on my FJ-09 with the CarbTune Pro that I found on Amazon. It was really easy and I was able to perform the whole procedure in 1 1/2 hours. My bike was actually in spec, but I did some fine tuning and now it's perfect. The tool and service manual costs less than the dealer would charge.
Just finished checking the throttle body sync on my 2017 after watching Bryan’s video. At 13,800 they did not need any adjustment. I would not have attempted this without the video. One hour and twenty min start to finish. Thanks for all the great videos!
Much thanks to Bryan for these tech videos. I checked the sync on my 2015 FJR at 600 miles. Mine was fine from the factory. By the way, the computer shows my fuel mileage since day one is over 50 MPG....substantially higher than what most folks expect.
I've been a cigarobsession fan four years, and I've watched almost every motorcycle obsession Video as they've come out, heck I was even an hlo fan! but I gotta say it's pretty cool to see one of your videos from the perspective of a random person, as I just searched throttle body sync and was surprised to see your video. thanks man!
Wow, incredible resource. I have an 05' and also an 18' . The differences have made me leery of doing this on the 18', but seeing this gives me resolve
Thank you for the great video. I watched it several times before doing this. Lost one vacuum cap (like you said disappeared) but I was able to buy replacements at the local automotive store. Thanks again for all you do for the FJR community!!
Did the job...a little difficult to reinstall the rubber cap... I suggest passing a small thread in the loop of the spring, as the rubber cap and spring can easily fly off and be lost when installing. But the job is very feasible and saves a lot of money. Tanks for the instruction video. On my bike, a 2016 ES, the "master cylinder" is number one (on the left of the bike) and the screw is clearly marked with a dab of white paint.
Your detailed explanation is unmatched. Frankly, I could not have done a lot of mods if it wasn't for your videos.
Awesome vid! I have learned so much. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with the rest of us. Having a visual representation is priceless!
Shawn Kuse You're welcome!
Loved your Cigars reviews, we have similar tastes. And now I realize we both live FJRs as well. No nonsense videos just like with Cigar Obsession, no ego, just facts and opinions.
Wish you'd make more of them all audiences reviews and tutorials
I just wanted to say thank-you so much for taking the time to create these videos. I've the same model as yours, in black. Your videos are comprehensive enough to easily follow along on my own bike maintenance. Again, thanks so much.
Hi, thank you for this video, it helped me immensely and I probably would not have attempted doing this job without it. Doing it myself not only saved me a few hundred dollars on my 600 mile service, even after buying all the tools, but I know it was done and not just ticked off on a list.
I did find that I could not manage to either get the rubber caps off, or get to the adjustment screws, by merely tilting the tank. I am still not quite sure how you managed that. I had to take the pivoting bolt out and move the tank back, as well as pivoting it, to get enough space. That extra step really isn't difficult and I am sure saves more hassle than it causes, at least for me.
One more thing of note is that the tank does not have to have much fuel in it. The fuel line runs from the back of the tank and is at the bottom when the tank is tilted back.
Thanks so much for this video! It took me about an hour including buttoning every thing up and putting the tools away! My 2013 Gen III had white paint on the left most adjustment screw so I didn't touch that one. I used a SynchroKing digital carb and throttle body balancer to get all four within 1 mmHg. Highly recommended!
I'm back to riding after 20 years away and really wanted to do the work and maintenance myself. Dude, your videos are SOOOOOOOO helpful. Thank you for taking the time and putting in the effort on these tutorials. They're really incredibly helpful.
I'm curious, what brand vacuum gauge are you using, and where can you get them?
You’re 100% correct! The rubber caps are the hardest part!
Awesome video. After watching it I ordered a Carbtune myself. Can't wait for it to come in so I can do this procedure also. One item to note. My bike is a little older. It is a 2008. My service manual says to use the #3 cylinder as the standard and only adjust 1,2,4. Sounds like this changed on the newer models but since you don't want the standard tied to the computer to get out of whack, I figured I would mention it for other guys that find this video and have a GenII also.
smithpa68 Yes - if I wasn't clear - it varies bike to bike. Always check your manual for the instructions. Some will give a specific number, others like mine say look for the paint mark. It can be anywhere!
Well done sir, keep up the good work. I'm relieved that it is a relatively easy procedure. My confidence in syncing, after viewing this DIY video, has increased 10 fold. Thanks!
Ha ! - I bought all the tools around May this year but was a bit scarred and wasn't sure I can do it by myself - right now I'm sure I can do it - will sync my bike this Saturday :-) ! Great Video !
I recently acquired a new to me 2008 FJR1300. I love the bike. I rode it home out of state about 800 miles and at first the test ride manifested no issues. Seller took fantastic care of bike and I have pages and pages of service history etc. However the closer home I got the freeway exits were met with increasing difficulty downshifting. It upshifts just fine. Clutch does not slip and fluid reservoir is full and clean. Seller did mention not too long ago he had the slave cylinder (I think thats what he called it) changed and new fluid. I have ridden bike around town twice since long trip and the downshifting is now constant. If I downshift a gear per every 5-10 seconds or more, it seems ok. But downshifting as you naturally would when coming to a stop isnt possible. Even when stopped, it just wont downshift; have to launch in whatever gear it came to a stop in. Any suggestions?
Some bikes have this, it's not unique to the FJR. It's caused by the way the dogs line up. If you're unlucky, they line up such that they can't engage the lower gear. Because the transmission isn't spinning when stationary, they never will line up unless you do something about it.
Try to shift down to 1 before stopping. Otherwise, when it won't shift when stationary, let out the clutch a little bit until you hear a clunk, then try shifting again. You can also let out the clutch a bit while keepnig pressure on the shift lever. Then it'll shift with the clunk. The clunk you hear is some driveline lash being taken up when the clutch starts to engage, this usually rotates the gearbox enough so the dogs align differently, allowing the shift.
Really enjoyed the video.In my manual it says models 2001-2012 , it is the number 3 throttle body which is the base one to which all the others are matched too.Did it change after 2012.
It seems to be #3 for the older models , at least for my 2004 model it's TB 3 according to the manual.
Yeah, this was well done. Thanks so much. The throttle body sync was fun and easy and now I own a really cool vacuum gauge!
I am in the market to buy a sport touring motorcycle and due to these awsome videos I'm leaning twards the FJR.
Hey Thanks. Just traded mt Honda st-1300 for an FJR after 90,000 miles. I did not have to do this procedure on the ST, probably because it has a single throtle body. Thanks for explaining so clearly. I will attempt to do it; I wonder however if the cost was really $700 as you mention. Of course as you say this the 600 miles inspection which includes 2 oil change and the dealer likely will claim a lot of other verifications for that price but as we know they amount to very little time. Thanks a lot I find your video excellent...will be back.
great video, it is easier to work under there if you do the air induction modification, it removes all the hoses from that area. goog work thanks
Thanks Bryan, just got the same tool & this my next job.
Nice vid! I'm considering replacing my Suzuki Bandit 1250 with a '13 or '14 FJR, so was curious about how doing a throttle body sync compared. Looks a little trickier since my Bandit uses hoses on the vacuum ports, which are easier to remove and reinstall than those little caps with the spring clips. On an FJR, I might need to have a beer while doing this to steady my hands for the rubber caps removal/reinstall!
I have a fresh FZ1 that is just past break in.
I assume it is very close to the FJR.
Thank You for this share.
Great video. Super easy to follow and understand. Thanks for taking the time and sharing your knowledge! Can't get any better than this!!
Brilliant video, I was a little worried about undertaking this but you made it look so easy 👍
If it hasn't been mentioned, that plastic tank surround piece removes and installs much easier if you apply some type of grease to the rubber grommet.
It goes in and off with almost no effort as-is.
Just because the previous owner didn't know how it comes off, doesn't mean the grommet requires effort. He probably didn't know about the end slide tabs.
Regardless of what you think, it solves a non-existant problem. Glad you like your fix, but it's not something anyone needs to do.
Sil glide works better. Won't effect the rubber. Grease will sometimes cause the rubber to swell. Napa carries it. Great video.
@@jontroiano415 can use red rubber grease for rubber components
That is really helpful. Very informative and saved me money.
Nice video, thanks man! I'm the proud new owner of a Yamaha FZ 07, and I am a bit perturbed to find out that this procedure has to be done to my new motorcycle at the 600 mile mark, and every 4000 miles thereafter. I'm having a helluva time figuring out where I can purchase that special gauge. I don't want to make some janky homemade manometer.
Carbtune.com
Great videos by the way. Please keep them up. Do you have a video for a FJR 1300, 2006. How to take off you petrol tank. To take out the fuel pump and clean. Many thanks.
Thank you for posting these videos. I'm
no mechanic, but you have saved me thousands in shop fees with these DYI videos! ( Spark plug change, oil change, sync, etc). What is the make and model of the synchronization tool that you use? Thanks again my friend.
Thank you for the great help...Was a pretty easy job as I had done many carb syncs but I could have done the oil change at least twice for the time it took me (I must be a clux). Keep up the good work.
Thank you. You answered a lot of questions I had about this process. The only other question I still have is, is there an adjustment needed for the actual throttle cable; after all one cable is responsible for opening all four throttle bodies?
Can I do that to my 2014 Yamaha R1? Thanks
Thank you for putting the time and effort into making these vids! This particular one helped me a great deal. I've done TB sync on other bikes, but it makes it that much easier to know the specific locations on any given machine.
P.S. I found the small, thin screwdriver to work better for cylinders 2 and 3. Nearly impossible to get in there with a long one.
+Eric Bindman that's what she said
TwoWheelObsession haha walked right into that one
Thanks very much Bryan! I am not mechanically inclined however I think this looks do-able thanks to your video. Safe to say a good, easy to understand service manual is a necessity for a variety of jobs. Any suggestions from you or your viewers about which one or where to pick it up? Thanks again!
Thanks for the great vid. Gave me the confidence to tackle this simple job on my FJR. I had no problems and was able to pull all the caps off by hand. 1 question though, In syncing carb 2, the screw is all the way in to the stop. If it is out of sync next time and needs to go that direction, what should I do? Will be syncing my FZ1 tomorrow. Thanks again!
Awesome video, descriptive and motivating lol im gonna give it a try i have a serious stumble when reving from idle, this must be it.
I now have a 2016 FJR 1300A. Are there any special under-tank access issues or complications before I get into this? Thanks for the excellent video.
Looking forward to doing this on my 2013, thanks Brian.
Great Video. Taken all the apprehension away. Just wanted to ask where I might buy a meter for a 2015 Yamaha FJ 09 three cylinder. Thanks again for the info very helpful.
carbtune.com same tool you just use 3 tubes
Thanks dude! I need to do this because when I crack my throttle it's not as responsive as it should be. Recommendations where to buy the tool or can you rent them?
Just click my amazon link, it's in my store - great tool!
Thank you very much for all your clear and informative explanations. Best Regards
Hey Bryan, awesome video. I have a question. I have an FJR 1300 FROM 2004. How do I know what generation it is? In order to know where my master cylinder is.
Great video. Followed your lead with fantastic results. Thanks for posting! Thanks
Nice job. Took a lot of the mystery out the task Thanks a lot
Mick Linke No prob :)
Great video. Have watched quite a bunch of them. About time to start executing some of the lessons learned.
Question though, in this video you mention that cylinder #1 is the reference. When I opened my Gen II Service Manual, it says "With throttle body #3 as standard, adjust throttle bodies #1, #2 and #4 using the air screw". Confusion kicked in a bit now.
I said check your manual - each gen is different. Gen II has a set number master. Gen 3 can be any of them, you have to physically look at the engine.
Thought as much. Cheers for the clarification. Because the maintenance status of my bike is unknown (imported from another country), gonna have a thorough inspection done including fluids exchange and valve clearance check. Will keep the spark plug exchange and throttle body adjustment to myself. Sounds like a cool little project to do, together with a buddie of mine.
You say in your video that the reading from the #1 carburetor is the one to use to adjust the other throttle bodies. My service manual clearly states that throttle body #3 is to be used as the 'standard'. It was the same on other motorcycles I have had the pleasure to 'sync'. The third carburetor, the one closest to the throttle cables, is the one that can't be adjusted and therefore is the one to sync to. My FJR is an '06, perhaps things are different on your newer machine, but I doubt it.
+Vince Wazonek and you would be wrong. Gen 3 can be any of them, you have to look for the white screw. As I said check your service manual for your specific instructions
Hi. What does this white screw do? My service manual makes no mention of a white screw. It does read: " With throttle body #3 as standard, adjust throttle bodies #1, #2, and #4 using the air screw "1" ( there are 4 "1" brass air screws, one on each carburetor). I'm using a Motion Pro 'Sync Pro tool to sync the throttle bodies. The tool has to be calibrated on one of the cylinders prior to starting the synchronization process. They specify in the instructions that you calibrate the tool to the non adjustable master carburetor or throttle body.
My service manual states that would be throttle body number 3. No mention anywhere of a white screw. Thanks for your feedback.
+Vince Wazonek dude I said gen 3. WE have a white painted master screw. You don’t. Yours is whatever your manual says.
Yes our owners manuals say "On 2001 to 2012 models the No. 3 throttle body is the base to which all others are matched, AND cannot itself be adjusted.
Thank you for another great tutorial! One question though. I have a 2015 fJR using the Carbtune Pro. While idling, I was getting pulsations plus or minus 1 cm/hg. Your carbtune didn't seem to pulsate quite as much as mine. I'm using the supplied restricters placed aprox 4" from the end of the hose (engine side). Any idea what could be causing my gauge to pulsate more than normal? Again, thanks for great "how to" vid.
+medpilot That's normal - the iPhone I recorded with only does 30fps, it may just be making it a tad smoother than you see in real life. You're good!
+TwoWheelObsession Ok, thanks!
Hi, awesome video. I have a question. The place where my bike is being serviced diagnoses the problem: "Problem with fuel map sensor and throttle bodies, requiring full clean and decarbonise .
Replacement spark plugs also required ".
I have replaced spark plugs 10 000kms ago. Is it really necessary to replace them again when the bike was starting up normally or they just want to use more parts to make more money? Thanks in advance.
Many thanks for this video and the others. I am a fan of your work. One question about the sync, you did the sync at idle rpm. What about doing the sync at a common cruising rpm? Say 4000 or 4500 rpm? I have had several bikes where owners would say it was best to sync the throttle bodies at typical cruising rpm (and sometimes at cruising rpm plus idle rpm if there were separate idle rpm and cruising rpm adjusters). Usually cruising rpm was considered the more important sync because that's where the engine is operating most of the time. Thanks again. Your videos are very interesting as this one is.
Corkus Warm idle is book spec for this bike - follow whatever your particular manual suggests.
incoret info aabout cylunder 1. manual says starting point is cylinder 3 screw.
Gen 3 is cylinder 1 Gen 2 is cylinder 3 check your service manual to be sure.
Gen 1 service manual indicates #3 as master cylinder so I agree
if cyclinder 3 screw was alreadu touched. what to do then
I am having surging issues at low rpm which you said is often the TPS, possibly on another one of your videos. I plan to replace it myself, h
ow do I enter diagnostic mode on my 2014 to set the idle resistance?
And thank you for your videos!
Hello, thank you for the video, one question, what if the first cylinder is out of spec? Can it be?
use wanted to clarify that the tool model you use is a carbtune pro 4 and I have a 2014 fjr so is it safe to assume number 1 is my factory standard as well I was just about to order bar ends because the vibration is horrible 20 miles of riding and I can't feel my right hand definitely will try this first thanks for the videos they are awesome
+maine trapping you need to look and see which screw is painted white.
Hi ..which is the normal temperature of engine in a hot day on a trip or in the city
Thank you, so easy.
was #1 adjustment screw painted white? hard to tell. i have a 2014 FJR
thnx for your video's we all like them!
I appreciate that!
what is the name of the sync tool you are using?
Thank you!
GR8 Video....really helpful
HI Dear wonderful video. Want to ask is any 4 cylinder liquid power
MOTION PRO SyncPRO Carb Tuner Synchronizer Tool with 5mm adapters will do the work. Thank you.
I just followed your instructions for my 2015 FJR. On your video, the vacuum rods are not fluctuating a lot. Mine were bouncing around so it was difficult to get them exactly in sync. At least I was able to keep them bouncing between the lines. Why were yours so steady?
+Pat Whitty you missed the part in the tool instructions to assemble it with the included restrictors
Thank you. I ordered it several months ago after watching your video and put it in the tool drawer. I didn't take time to read the instructions. I found the restrictor tube. You always provide helpful information.
Hi, where did you buy the service manual for FJR 1300? Thank you.
Help please. I just got some weird symptoms. when I keep speed , dont move throttle or set cruise controle( between 20 to 70mph) my bike get kicks. like missing cilinder or something. on iddle its ok around 1100-1200 rev. when I slow down by let it go its fine. when I speeding up its fine. only happen when I keep the same speed. So I don't know what that could be. Throttle Body Syn?? I have the same 2015. please give some agvice where to look. BTW your vids are great and many pleople find it sooo helpfull
love all your videos thanks
After watching your video I followed the instructions on my '07 and based the adjustments off #1. Later I discovered that it should have been based off #3. None were much off at all and all that was done was minor fine tuning. Do I have a problem here? I haven't ridden the bike, but in the shop it idles and runs fine.
You're good!
Thx for posting.
I tried to handle this job today on a 2004 model - the adjustment baseline there is cylinder #3 which might indeed be due to the different build (adjustment screws are also on a slightly different location and go in sideways). Issue that I face however is that the Hg colons would not steady out. Even after the engine settled to a normal idle of 1050 revs/sec it kept on swinging high and low albeit less hectic than with the cold engine. I wonder if my carbtune pro is toast (newly bought last week so I doubt that) or something else is awry. Maybe I need a valve adjustment but this is a very low mileage bike despite its age (32000 Km) so I also question that "direction". It kinda looks like the vacuum level isn't kept at a constant value all the time (valve leaks?)
Cheers
/R
Turns out I forgot to insert the tiny plastic restrictors - that might help to settle it - Advise to Morgan UK would be to add a big highviz sticker on the tool making sure that ignorants like me read the manual .....doh
Thank you, great class, easy anderstand.
very clear video thx for that :)
Thank You for the great vid.
Amazing Sir, Thank you! 💯👌🏼
Hi, great explanation and really easy to follow and you are right the process is straightforward and saves money and improves confidence in DIY motorcycle maintenance.
Just one question, referenc3 was made to #1 cylinder for aligning the vacuum, however I notice on the FJR forum, reference is made to #3? - any thoughts.
Thanks again for this and the many other great tips and guidance.
Regards
Rick
Isle of Man
Road racing capital
FJR1300AS
My vid is a gen 3 bike. Master can be any of them. Gen 1 and 2 master is always 3.
Great video. Very helpful!!
Great video and it was easy to do but I have one question. I bought the same gauge as you have and the gauge tubes were not as settled as yours. They bounced up and down, but I was still able to set them all the same. Just wondering if something might be wrong with my gauge?
Read the manual and install your limiters
@@TwoWheelObsession yup. Something o usually do but didnt this time. Lol my bad. Just finished doing the tune again and everything worked out perfectly this time. Lol thanks again for the awesome video!
Thank you so much! Appreciate your videos!
Mike Lang Welcome!
TwoWheelObsession
Really appreciate that you share your knowledge and I know you took a lot of time to make the video. I need to buy you a beer or two.
I have a Morgan Carbtune Pro 4 and misplaced/lost the clear restrictors. Do you know where I can buy some or what I can use to replace them with something else?
I saw where the two hoses went but where do the other two attach to when doing this?
Tim Carter The two other identical ports. They are obvious when you are doing it.
Hi, and thanks for all your efforts to make these instructive vids!! Big fan! Did my first sync on my -06 FJR today, and noticed to my horror that the previous owner had torn the top of the rubber cap on the vacuum pipe so it was fully open!! I've been riding it for some 15000 km's now, and have no idea when it last was synced. They were very good in sync (198) except for the one without cap which was 193. I had to turn the screw all the way in, but still couldnt reach further than 197. Should i worry, and is the only way to tear the hole tb apart to be able to clean it. It has litterary been working as a vacuum cleaner for a long time now😢, and the space around the tb is rather dirty with road dust. Whats your opinion? Cheers from Sweden!
You'll just have to disassemble it for cleaning and resync. Sounds like it was out, compensating.
@@TwoWheelObsession Yea, guess so.. Thanks for the attention! 👍
On the r1, manual say cyl 3 is the cyl that you use as reference not no 1
Good thing this video isn't about the R1 then
I don't understand why you cant adjust number 1 cylinder. What if it is out of spec? Is it because the TPS would need calibration after?
Great Video!
+Yanier Olivera the ecu is calibrated to the master and it's a long procedure if it gets changed.
TwoWheelObsession
I understand. The one thing I never see anyone talking about is cleaning the throttle bodies prior to syncing them, especially in high milage bikes. I'm a car mechanic and in many new cars the throttle body does learn and compensate for dirt but after cleaning many times I have to perform a relearn procedure. This is for electronic throttle bodies of course. My point is this:
If the "master cylinder" is out of spec and you sync all other cylinders to it wouldn't you be putting all cylinders out of spec then?
I have yet to see or even hear of an FJR with dirty throttle bodies. And yes, everything would be out - that's why like I said - you don't touch the master.
TwoWheelObsession
Look I don't mean to offend but you need to look for a better answer than "you just don't touch the " reference cylinder" or master or whatever you want to call it. You are not dealing with children here...
Do you know why?
+Yanier Olivera I already told you. Because the Ecu is calibrated to it. From the factory. So if you change it, it needs to be recalibrated.
Great, great videos sir!
nice, how often you need to check this? because it is a bit pain in a n arse. I guess I stay with one or two cylinder bikes then :)
It’s not a pita, people that don’t know how think it is though. I just did it for a guy the other day, another one is coming tomorrow. Takes me 15 min. Book spec is every 4k and I end up doing it when I start to feel vibration, usually a little more than that.
Where would I find a list of service items required to be performed at each interval?
In the owners manual
Do you recommend any particular throttle body vacuum gauge?
Look in the store link
where is that and how would I check that?
Very very helpful! Thank you so much!