STOP your dog pulling on the lead - 7 tips for loose leash walking
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 พ.ค. 2024
- Are you struggling to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash? Does your dog pull obsessively and refuse to listen to you? If so this video will help. To teach your dog to walk beside you takes much hard work and an understanding of the method. In this video I reveal 7 tips and a bonus tip to stop your dog pulling on the lead. These 7 tips will show you never seen before techniques that other dog trainers on TH-cam either do not practice or have not revealed.
I give away all my secrets to encourage your dog to walk beside you and follow your lead. This will ensure you have a harmonious relationship together based on trust, respect and clear leadership.
My 7 tips to get your dog to walk beside you on a loose leash are:
1. To teach your dog in stages.
2. To reward your dog when they are in the correct position
3. Knowing how to perfect the correction
4. Learning the Dog Guardian shuffle
5. Perfecting your posture
6. Teaching in checkpoints
7. Having fun and keeping lessons short
There is also an 8th bonus tip which I forgot to include when planning the video. Check out My TH-cam video on loose lead training to see what it is and how you can include these dog training tips on every walk to show your dog that you decide the speed of the walk, where you go on the walk and when to go.
If you liked this video and are seeing improvements in your dog's heeling ability please share it with others, like and subscribe.
Thank you so much for stopping by,
Best wishes on your journey with your dog,
Nigel
#dogtraining #looseleadtraining #dogbehaviorist
If you need bespoke advice on how to address your dog's behaviour be sure to check out my courses for a holistic explanation.
Dog behaviour courses:
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And for more information on dog's behaviour and behavioural issues, have a look at the following links:
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** THANK YOU **
I used to have a GSD that would pull me all over the place and I was practising these tips for what felt like ages. One day on a winter evening it all just clicked. It was cold so I stuck my hands in my pockets (with the lead attached to my left wrist). I think it was a sudden mixture of my dog not knowing how far she can pull my arm, and the fact that my other hand was resting on the treats in the other pocket, where it all clicked and she just calmly parked next to me and it was the first super relaxing walk we ever had. Thank you Nigel.
Thank you Mr Fudgepump for letting me know :)
I hope all is well.
Regarding the tip of making the lesson short:
Then what are we supposed to do during the rest of the walk?
Example: I take my dog for 30 mins walk
We train for 15 then most probably she will pull for the remaining 15 mins!
Should i just make the walk 15 mins as the session duration?
Once i stop the commands and the heel order she just goes on her own 😅
Can we know how and what to do after the training session? As often no one talks about how we should handle this as again it is impossible to have a dog on perfect heel or no pulling all the time!
Any recommendations on what to do in this situation?
Maaaaaate this guy knows his dogs! Awesome tips
You're a ledge Bob. I hope all is well.
This worked really well for us. We have a fearful dog and many techniques just scare him, like blocking etc. Been very consistent with this and he's much better. Still his scared old self but we now have big stretches of nice leash walking - thank you
Great to hear. Well done. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for making this video! Often times we see this type of video and the dog has mastered it after 5 mins. But this video is more realistic that training takes progress and it's the little improvements that count ❤
Glad it was helpful!
Nigels tips helped me socialize my reactive GSD years ago and he's the greatest dog, today! They have been such great additions to my toolbox, I've had many complements while using Nigel's techniques.
Great to hear. Thanks for sharing!!
Great tips and great video! Thank you Nigel ☺
My pleasure! Thanks for watching :)
Very informative
Glad you think so Steve. Thanks for commenting.
Wonderful video 💚
Thank you John 🤗
Thanks Nigel, the thorough instructions shows in this video well merit the time … found it very helpful
Great to hear :)
The body posture tip is excellent!
Thanks Jean.I'm glad it resonated.
Very good tips, I hope this will help with my dog.
I hope so too! If you perfect the approach and the environment you will see results.
What a nice doggo
☺️🐕
A clear and very instructive video. I especially took in the foot shuffle and zigzag manoeuvre.
Thanks Nige
Such a brilliant video Thank you I will practice this straight away fingers crossed 🤞🏻 both my dogs get this after many of years of pulling and feeling stressed out after our walks 🤞🏻🐾💕
Pleasure, thanks for commenting. If you perfect all 7 tips you will see results. Wishing you the best on your journey.
really really thank you so much sir.... I'll challenge it everyday for my buddy and myself
Pleasure. Hope it goes well :)
This was so informative! If only I could get my dog to listen before I even put her harness on. She starts to cry out of excitement and doesn’t even let me put the harness all the way. It’s been frustrating to take her on walks…
So when you get up and touch the harness, when she starts getting excited, just put the harness back and sit back down. When she's calm, try it again. Not going anywhere if you carry on. Hope that helps.
@@robinrutherfordcost4748 thank you I will give that a try. Just need to be patient with her and take baby steps.
Glad it is helpful. Yes like Robin says do not move forward until you have the desired response no matter how long it takes. Do it all (or most) in silence as otherwise you'll exacerbate her state.
@@nigelreed thank you so much! I need to learn to be patient with her and not get frustrated. I’m the one that needs to be trained haha. Thank you!
I've had success putting the harness on my dog when he's just starting to wake up from a nap.
Thank you so much for this fantastic video! I will be starting this today with our adolescent border collie 😁
Glad it was helpful! Best of luck :)
This is great! Definitely one I will be working on. My boy does like to be slightly ahead. Charges to sniff stuff! I will practice. No garden but I do have quiet streets and parks to use.
Great!!
I feel your pain - literally! That charge forward to sniff something hurts my shoulder
Great video, thanks Nigel. Been doing this with Mork and it works but I have to learn to be more consistent and do it every time. I feel so proud when he walks by my side. I dont do the shuffle but say ah ah and he knows not to pull. Should i change to the shuffle?
Hi Yvonne, see what works best. I personally find shuffling the best on most dogs but I adapt my communication to each dog.
Thank you so much for sharing this realistic and super helpful video. My latest GSD rescue pulls like I've never known! Patience is a virtue I know but it's incredibly helpful to get a few new tips - like the shuffling and zig-zagging. Will definitely try them in our walk training. Thank you!
Pleasure Kim, I hope all goes well :)
super video. I like the standing still bit to properly reset. I forgot this bit and notice it makes a difference, especially when you have a dog in its own little world, full of distractions. I would say our dog responds to this technique now he's a bit calmer, a year ago, he was far too manic for this to have worked. Think you mentioned this point to another person in the comments.
Glad you liked it Natasha. No he would have got it eventually - the teaching in stages and checkpoints would have helped with that the most. Then the shuffling, correcting and waiting all are designed to reduce the manic state. I've worked with all kinds but they all calm once you implement every tip.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@nigelreed Great.Well, I appreciate the videos. It's helping us a lot
Thankyou Nigel for all your helpful videos and book they really are a godsend 😊 I have a big Basset boy and unf' ended up with a torn rotator cuff due to not pulling forward but to the side and back of me when caught a scent. I am trying to figure out re these tips when they are yanking you in opposite direction. Any tips are greatful.
Pleasure, you have to
a) Make the consequence and reward strong enough so the dog questions pulling
b) Research then invest in the best lead/ harness that takes away the dog's ability to pull you off course.
c) Get the dog listening to you with tips in video i.e stages (start off in places without strong scents and build up), get the dog listening to you by changing speed etc
d) win every exchange
Best of luck
Really appreciated . . Thankyou
Hi and thank you for such wonderful videos - I wanted to ask about harnesses as I see many types being used and would appreciate any guidance you have about which type is suitable for what as so much information is available its overwhelming...
I like Ruffwear but there are many good harnesses out there.
I like the scuffing of feet. Great video
Thanks Cindy :)
Hi Nigel! Thanks for the great video! Question: does this technique work with huskies?
Hi there, pleasure. Yes it will work with any breed although certain breeds and personalities need more lessons than others. Best of luck
@@nigelreed Thank you! 🙂
Loving the longer content! My friend's dog pulls all the time and they seem to have given up on correcting him. In your experience how long does it normally take for most dogs to pick this up?
Hi Sean,
Good question. The dog in the video learnt the desired response in 15 minutes, pretty much. Other dogs can take a few months but in the harder cases, there are usually other things going on that need addressing simultaneously. I'll talk about this in later videos. Please pass this on to your friend to see if it helps..
Best wishes,
Nigel
You need the lead attached high on the neck initial training harness no. Harness maybe after they are trained. I've been working with belgium malinois very hyper. Lead high on neck and had to improvise the halti collar eventually to get her to walk properly. Now I am going to a body halter working into it.
This is hands-down THE best video I've seen on this. I have an American staffy who is very vocal so even putting the harness on causes extreme barking of excitement. If I try to get her to sit once it is on she just barks at me. Do I do as suggested below just practice this step first and not even put it on her until she stops barking? Thank you so much for this video.
Hi Helen, thank you for your kind words. So pleased you like the video. Yes silently show your dog that you do not move forward an inch unless you get the desired response be that putting the harness on or walking out the door. If she barks you turn away or walk off. If she is calm and listening you go to the next step. I may do a video on this in the future.
@@nigelreed Thank you so much for your reply. I definitely do this next time.
Pleasure. Great :)
This is so helpful! My dog pulls so much it feels like she's going to pull off my arm. Should I allow my dog to keep stopping and sniffing on a walk or not? She often pulls me to a stop when she's stopping for a sniff of something 🤦♀️
Great to hear the video is helpful Annie. Yes you can allow a bit of stopping and sniffing but don't let your dog stop every 20 meters. You have to strike a balance between you leading and them having time to relax. However I find the strong pullers/ obsessive sniffers are assessing their environment for dangers, to mark and look for food opposed - which isn't productive for the process.
Thank you for this video, my dog, as generalised anxiety . When I scuff my feet, he gets scared. Is there anything else I can do?
Yes just use a verbal cue/noise.
Nigel I am working with two strong dogs at our local shelter. I am thinking, because they are so eager to get out of their run, that they should have a good play session before attempting to train?
They are also big jumpers in the their runs when you are trying to harness them up.
Yes any edge you can get to reduce their state whilst maintaining leadership is a good thing.
I would always pre exercise these dogs before lead walking.
Awesome thanks! My dog is high energy so she needs lots of exercise or she gets naughty. How do you teach this, plus make sure they get enough exercise until they've learnt it.
And do you alternately let them have a sniff around intermittently? I heard dogs need that as well? Thanks.
HI Jo, pleasure : )
Usually the learning tires them out. If it doesn't I would just do more walks. Then when I get home if they are naughty I would address that too. Sometimes I do less walks with my high eery dog and she has to accept that. I make it up to her on another walk.
Yes I let dogs sniff intermittently. Here is a video of me out with my dog in case it is helpful: th-cam.com/video/RFScbdB7CQg/w-d-xo.html
@@nigelreed Awesome, thank you! My dog Rosie is extremely fast & recall not great. On a long line, she can bolt VERY fast. If I stop her, it will jolt both of us so it's a bit of a problem. Any suggestions pse? Thanks :-)
Hi Jo, it is usually necessary to get more control on a shorter lead before putting a dog on a long lead.
Noticed that your not using heal command and using body language to communicate with the dog great video,👍👍👍👍👍
Thanks Edwardo.
If ever you're in York and need a "guinea pig" please come and try this on my spaniel. We've worked soooo hard on loose lead walking but he still charges forward, mainly to sniff where another dog might have had a wee or if there's a large grass area ahead
Noted Sharon. I'll be sure to let you know. 😀
So my 10 month old dog has an 80 percent walk perfect apart from when he needs number 2 , he can sometimes take ages to find the perfect spot , but all the time he wants to find it he will pull any advice thanks
This is more of a mindset issue. Have it in your head how much you will allow him to sniff and explore in that moment and opt for less than you do currently. If he pulls correct him as shown in the video. Then overtime show him he can go toilet but he an't pull you to go.
I have two dogs. One is better than the other. Do I do these tips separately or can I train together?
If you can do them together then great. But it might be too hard. See video below where I train 2 dogs- but do one at a time as it was too tricky to do both at the same time.
th-cam.com/video/Z8cPkTh7Y3k/w-d-xo.html
Do you recommend refraining from regular (non-training) walks with your dog outside, while you’re in the beginning stages of training indoors?
Thank you for all your videos. They have been very helpful.
HI there, you can put the dog in the car and take them somewhere off lead to play. But when they are on lead it is vital you are showing them that you lead. Training indoors is usually successful quickly so it won't be long before you get out there. Great to hear the videos have been helpful - I hope that answers your question.
What worked for me was to walk up to my pup and circle him back to start. in other words a Uturn with him close to her knees.☺️ You got this!
*Hey y'all I previously wrote a negative comment...Nigel responded kindly and I realized having an American Akita was challenging. I forgot all the hurdles we went through. How about going to a store and he jumped on the counter swiping everything on the floor with his fluffy tail🫣 I am humbled and reworded this to support and learn, not tear down 🙏🏽
Yes it's a learning process. She got there in the end.
@@nigelreed thank you Nigel for clarifying 😊 I have an American Akita...so you know there were lots of learning curve for me! Sometimes we forget we walked her same shoes forgive me and I will edit my post. Hugzz from Alabama😘
It is easily done. Very thoughtful of you to change your post - you've reminded me how many lovely people there are behind the screens. Hugs from Rye, East Sussex.
Equipment that's properly fitted for that exercise would be helpful, I would recommend flat buckle collar. That "harness" doesn't fit that dog and harnesses will often encourage pulling and doesn't allow for clear corrections.
How does a harness encourage a dog to pull?
@@nigelreedI'm going to take your question at face value.
The harness moves the ability to control the dog to a lower area on its body where the dog has more strength, and the handler has less control regardless of the dog's size.
Of the items I've listed, a head halter, a slip lead and or buckle collar placed high up on the neck provide the most control in that order and lastly a harness. On your client's dog, that harness is ill fitting creating a latency between the dog's action and a clear correction/communication from its handler. I also said "will often encourage pulling", but starting out when training it's best to use equipment that gives the clearest communication to the dog.
@@cherylmillard2067 Thanks for the reply - I see where you are coming from. Although I still wouldn't say it often encourages a dog to pull. Rather the others you mention discourage a dog to pull through discomfort. I don't promote any equipment as they all have their pros and cons and it depends on the handler. For example I like that with a harness I can be really firm without causing any pain. Noted on less control with a harness and sudden chasing from a dog. If I had a very strong dog I wouldn't use one.
Best wishes,
@@nigelreed No discomfort is necessary when using the items I listed, discomfort is due to how the item is used, a harness can also cause discomfort, pain, etc.
You can still have a clear line of communication and firm correction without causing pain.
We'll have to agree to disagree. A harness generally causes less discomfort hence it being less of a deterrent.
Is the purpose of the walk simply to have the dog walk behind/beside without stopping to sniff or experience their surroundings?
Hi Margery, no the goal is to have the dog walk behind/beside you and stop and sniff but not so much that they're dictating the pace. For clarity one should establish the rules before they give leeway otherwise who leads whom is not clear.
I usually like to let my dog sniff things as we walk, as the walk is supposed to be fun for her too. Im assuming I refrain from that until she no longer pulls, but what then? Can we no longer have sniff walks? TYIA.
Yes you can allow your dog to sniff. It is a case of striking a balance so they know that you are leading by deciding when to go, where and at what speed. I would say letting them sniff every few minutes is fine.
The Harness will also cause the dog to want to pull.
It's not so much the harness causes the dog to pull but it acts as less of a deterrent
to pull. As having a lead and collar is less comfortable than a harness. But with a harness one can be firm without worrying if they're hurting the dog.
I get so triggered when I see this breed in households as a family pet, they are working dogs that will keep going all day long and they need to keep going as they are working dogs, keeping this breed inside a house does them nothing but harm mentally. On top of that they are the easiest breed on planet to train as they are born to please and learn from the correct owner, this owner needed help in something as simple as pulling on the lead so I doubt this dog is getting what it needs physically or mentally.
Im torn because i don't mind my dog sniffing i just dont want him pulling me. I take him on a road walk to tire his brain out more than his body really. If i want to wear out his body i take him somewhere off lead . Is it possible to let them sniff and not pull? I don't mind waiting but I'm sure Nigel would say thats putting him in charge of the walk 🤔
I do it with the same techniques as Nigel, but at every other lamp post , wall I stop and say go sniff. It took a while but I found my dog finds it more rewarding to go sniff than a treat. You do have to nail the loose lead walking first, then add in to the sniff after.
@@angelajarvis8450 I'll give it a try. Thanks
@lyndsey Anne I forgot to mention that I do not drag the dog back to start position like the lady was doing, as I have an anxious dog, I scuff my feet then when he looks at me I say nice let's go and do a uturn he happily follows me, then I ask him to go sniff to calm him then I say walk, and if we pass a lamppost or his favourite wall they always have favourites I say go sniff, I hope this helps, I don't let my dog out in front because he can be easily spooked so my goal his to keep him close with sniffs in-between for reward and self calming.
@@angelajarvis8450 i had a go yesterday. I sisnt need to drag but i pulled him away from a couple of sniffs this time mainly because he yanked me to them. I allowed him to go there but only when he was willing to walk there nicely. He mever looks at me when we are out. It takes a lot to get his attention. I gave myself 40 mins to do a 15 min walk so i had plenty of time.
@lyndsey Anne if you can try to get his attention, if he pulls to sniff as soon as he gets in front of you, stop and stay still, then when he looks at you, say yes,do a uturn a couple of lamppost back then go sniff then race him to it, then the sniffing is going through you so you're doing it together and whilst he's sniffing say ooh what can you smell, in time he will look to you for a go sniff cue. It does take time, and as Nigel says, 3 to 5 minute sessions to start with, then progress from there, and you will get a regression just ride it through and keep doing it all in a fun way but not excitable.
Don't teach "don't pull" by pulling him back. Stop gently and just wait instead.
Many people do do that. But it won't work with more tenacious dogs.
My dog will just keep pulling. No matter how long I wait
I don't see that dog pulling at all just scared
I suggest you incorporate a multi variable analysis.
Yeh nope. No relationship building. Just her yanking and pulling and dragging him around. He’s not interested in her until he gets a treat.
She has a wonderful relationship with her dog. She taught the dog in stages to take his emotional state into account. She communicated a desired response through treating, praising, showing and correcting him which in turn builds a relationship of nurturing, coaching and authority.
In a misguided attempt not to injure the dog, people are putting their dogs and themselves at risk by using harnesses. Stop using harnesses which are designed to encourage pulling. If you have no control of the head you cannot influence the dog.
Leads also cause collapsed trachea and nerve damage along with breathing problems. I know this was a long time ago but I can't stand people who only think for themselves when dog training, harnesses are overall best option in the LONG run because even though it may take longer to train by your logic it also stops any health risks and makes your dog trust you more apposed from a dog in a constant uncomfortable situation.
Lose the useless harness. Leash and chokechain.
Hi Randy, why would you recommend using a choke chain (that causes pain) when it it worked very quickly without one?
@@nigelreed used correctly a choke chain causes no pain. Whoever says so doesn't know how to put one on correctly, or how to use it. If you got a dog to learn to heel with a gimmick harness it was a very, very soft dog.
Thanks for your reply. I wouldn't say a harness was a gimmick - but with that being said I am sure 'some' people promote them for idealogical reasons opposed to what is more effective. Personally I like them as I can be very firm knowing I am not hurting the dog, which I wouldn't be comfortable being too firm with a choke chain. But i'm always open to hear people out and be proved wrong. I don't care too much about tools the client uses as I get the job done from easy cases to tough ones by outworking the dog.
Everything is great, but the Norwegian type harness, unfortunately, has a negative effect on the dog's joints