Love your videos! I have an 85 380SL for a while now and it has never been running for years. Fuel system was shot and have to replace many parts including sending out fuel manifold to CIS Flow Tech to get it rebuild. I brought the car to mechanic who specializes in SL and got it running but not to the point that I can test drive on the road, and I have to move to other state. The car started fine and idle at 700 rpm but if I rep it up, it will bog and die right away so I wait several minutes till it warmed up before step on gas, it got to 1800 RPM then bogged down. The WUR was also rebuild few times and the latest rebuild, follow your video. I disassembled WUR and changed some adjustment with tapping the bi-metal pin back up flush to the surface but no change there except making the idle worse and control and system pressure still very high. I tapped it back down from the top and still no change in fuel pressure. I have rigged the fuel pressure test kit exactly like yours and follow steps the same way. When pump is turned on, Initial Control pressure test with fuel shutoff OFF, the gage reads 7.2 bar. System pressure also reads 8.2. When engine started, the gage reads 8.2 bar. I let it run for several minutes and monitored WUR temp rise, but gage still read at 8.2. I also loosen the return line on top WUR and fuel squirt right out so no clog there. I test resistant on bi-metal on WUR and power to it and it seemed to be working fine. I thought the fuel pump is bad so bought and installed new Bosh pump and now control and system pressure is way up to around 10 bar. Any suggestion is kindly appreciated.
Sounds like your system pressure is very high. That is controlled by the system pressure regulator, at the left (driver side) back of the fuel distributor. It can be adjusted by adding or removing chimes. But as it is very high here, I would first check whether your fuel return line (from fuel distributor back to fuel tank) is not clogged.
Fantastic tutorial - thanks for sharing! Starting overhaul of the WUR on my 85 380SL and this is incredibly helpful. Did manage to carefully work my screens out (patience and a pick/tiny screwdriver) and soak them in acetone. They don't seem too dirty but I really do wonder if they are necessary.
Thanks for your comments, and happy this helps you. I didn't put them back, as I agree there is little chance for anything flowing in there. And in the end I am now capable of servicing it myself if it would get clogged at some point.
Thank you, very detailed and explanatory. To me, getting older hahaha, the 20x timelapse is just too fast and I had to pause and reverse many times. Nevertheless I appreciate your efforts to make this video, and the necessary measuring tools!
i have just rebuilt mine and it leaked at the orange gasket, i see at 7:32, you brushed something on the plater before applying the gasket, what was this, is it needed to form a good seal
It is not needed. I just applied some silicone grease to keep the gasket in place. Are you saying it is leaking fuel at the orange gasket? That is surprising as that is an air gasket between 2 two vacuum chambers. Fuel should stay above the metal membrane at the top of the WUR. Your rubber o-ring (see 8:12) might be bad.
@@GandaGarage no the fueling side is fine, no leaking at all, when i put the orange membrane in and bolted the wur together i can blow threw the vac line and feel it coming out the top vent hole, just cant seal it, am i suppose to use a sealent of some sort with the orange gasket
OK, I am not sure how to test correct operation. But as this vacuum system is reacting temporarily to changing conditions, such as acceleration, this bleed off might be as intended.
Hi, i am happy to watch your vedios. Also, happy that you share from where you buy the Repair Kits. If you can also share from where you buy the parts as well to help us.
The WUR inlet filter was completely clogged; no fuel came through at all. With that control pressure equaled system pressure at about 5.2 bar. After the rebuild, control pressure starts at 2.2 bar ambient temperature up to 3.8 bar with the WUR element warmed up.
@@michaelminukhin6669 looks like that was averaging around 7.04mm. But I mainly did that to reinstall it with the same setting in my unit. Most likely, this number is not right for your WUR as the springs and bi-metal will behave slightly different.
@@GandaGarage Crazy. Mine sits at 2.2 bar. Starts - immediately goes to 4 bar, as it worms up - goes down to 3.5 and stays there. Lean on start ups. starts but runs smooth. Doing well after warms up.
Love your videos! I have an 85 380SL for a while now and it has never been running for years. Fuel system was shot and have to replace many parts including sending out fuel manifold to CIS Flow Tech to get it rebuild. I brought the car to mechanic who specializes in SL and got it running but not to the point that I can test drive on the road, and I have to move to other state. The car started fine and idle at 700 rpm but if I rep it up, it will bog and die right away so I wait several minutes till it warmed up before step on gas, it got to 1800 RPM then bogged down. The WUR was also rebuild few times and the latest rebuild, follow your video. I disassembled WUR and changed some adjustment with tapping the bi-metal pin back up flush to the surface but no change there except making the idle worse and control and system pressure still very high. I tapped it back down from the top and still no change in fuel pressure. I have rigged the fuel pressure test kit exactly like yours and follow steps the same way. When pump is turned on, Initial Control pressure test with fuel shutoff OFF, the gage reads 7.2 bar. System pressure also reads 8.2. When engine started, the gage reads 8.2 bar. I let it run for several minutes and monitored WUR temp rise, but gage still read at 8.2. I also loosen the return line on top WUR and fuel squirt right out so no clog there. I test resistant on bi-metal on WUR and power to it and it seemed to be working fine. I thought the fuel pump is bad so bought and installed new Bosh pump and now control and system pressure is way up to around 10 bar. Any suggestion is kindly appreciated.
Sounds like your system pressure is very high. That is controlled by the system pressure regulator, at the left (driver side) back of the fuel distributor. It can be adjusted by adding or removing chimes. But as it is very high here, I would first check whether your fuel return line (from fuel distributor back to fuel tank) is not clogged.
Fantastic tutorial - thanks for sharing! Starting overhaul of the WUR on my 85 380SL and this is incredibly helpful. Did manage to carefully work my screens out (patience and a pick/tiny screwdriver) and soak them in acetone. They don't seem too dirty but I really do wonder if they are necessary.
Thanks for your comments, and happy this helps you. I didn't put them back, as I agree there is little chance for anything flowing in there. And in the end I am now capable of servicing it myself if it would get clogged at some point.
How can I get the video in slow motion 😂
Use the TH-cam playback speed setting to slow down 😆
Thank you, very detailed and explanatory. To me, getting older hahaha, the 20x timelapse is just too fast and I had to pause and reverse many times. Nevertheless I appreciate your efforts to make this video, and the necessary measuring tools!
Next time bro, click your settings for TH-cam and select 0.25 speed. Might help
i have just rebuilt mine and it leaked at the orange gasket, i see at 7:32, you brushed something on the plater before applying the gasket, what was this, is it needed to form a good seal
It is not needed. I just applied some silicone grease to keep the gasket in place.
Are you saying it is leaking fuel at the orange gasket? That is surprising as that is an air gasket between 2 two vacuum chambers.
Fuel should stay above the metal membrane at the top of the WUR. Your rubber o-ring (see 8:12) might be bad.
@@GandaGarage no the fueling side is fine, no leaking at all, when i put the orange membrane in and bolted the wur together i can blow threw the vac line and feel it coming out the top vent hole, just cant seal it, am i suppose to use a sealent of some sort with the orange gasket
ok resealed and now i can apply 0.5 bar positive pressure but it will bleed of within 3 secs, fuel enrichment drops to spec when this is carried out
OK, I am not sure how to test correct operation. But as this vacuum system is reacting temporarily to changing conditions, such as acceleration, this bleed off might be as intended.
Awesome video!
When you took out those clogged little filters, did you put them back in, or did you just leave them out.
I left them out. They were to far gone, and I didn't want to risk that pieces would go in the system.
Could you tell me if I can buy the pin separately to the regulator
No idea, I guess not.
I also want to overhaul my WUR. it is the same as theirs. Can you write me the spare part number?
I got it from here: www.missingparts.de/ Look for "Repair Set for all Bosch dual-membrane Warm Up Regulator × 1"
Hi, i am happy to watch your vedios. Also, happy that you share from where you buy the Repair Kits. If you can also share from where you buy the parts as well to help us.
Sure, I buy most of my parts form the local MB dealer or the autodoc webstore.
What did it measure out? I watched your video after took it apart.
The WUR inlet filter was completely clogged; no fuel came through at all. With that control pressure equaled system pressure at about 5.2 bar.
After the rebuild, control pressure starts at 2.2 bar ambient temperature up to 3.8 bar with the WUR element warmed up.
@@GandaGarage I am talking about micrometer measurement. Looks like 5.59mm. Is that right? And can you make it slower plz? Very useful clip!
@@michaelminukhin6669 looks like that was averaging around 7.04mm. But I mainly did that to reinstall it with the same setting in my unit. Most likely, this number is not right for your WUR as the springs and bi-metal will behave slightly different.
Thanks! Very helpful!
@@GandaGarage Crazy. Mine sits at 2.2 bar. Starts - immediately goes to 4 bar, as it worms up - goes down to 3.5 and stays there. Lean on start ups. starts but runs smooth. Doing well after warms up.
3.0 should be without vacuum, 3.8 with it.