What to do if your warm up regulator goes bust.
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 ส.ค. 2024
- This video is about What to do if your warm up regulator goes bust.
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Pierre, you should mention the relationship between the WUR and the Idle air slide valve. They really need to work together during cold start/warmup. As the WUR goes from rich to lean as engine temp increases, the idle air valve is also closing off at a coordinated rate in order to keep the mixture and idle speed at the right spot to ensure smooth running, without stumbling. It's really a pretty impressive thing when both parts are working together properly. I have a Euro 280SL with a bad idle slide valve that is basically stuck in the warm position, so that when the engine starts cold, it never idles up to compensate for the cold enrichment, and runs a bit rich until it fully warms up. My point is that sometimes a WUR may be condemned for an issue when it is actually the idle valve.
This is a very valuable input. It's true that if the air slide valve does not open all the way, and the warm up regulator goes into Rich mode like it is supposed to, the engine will develop excessive hydrocarbons.also, if the warm-up regulator is too lean but the air slide is working properly, then the engine will certainly have a difficult time starting and idling like it's supposed to
Exactly,same issue im experiencing as well.Did you end up fixing it or found actually what was the cause?
My WUR problem turned out to be the vacuum line on top of the WUR going to a three way Tee on the manifold that was Kaputsa.
@ 4:43. You should have 3.4 - 3.8 Bar with the engine fully warmed up. Yes that is correct. However @ 4:49, You should have 5.0-5.3 Bar when engine is in warm up mode ?? Engine in warm up mode you typically see pressure of 1.3 -2.4 Bar. Hence lower pressures and richer warm up mixtures. Perhaps you were referring to System pressures ?
His tutorials are clear and detailed. Outstanding!
Thank you for creating this video. Restoring a saab 900 turbo which uses this system. Cheers
Thanksforthevideo
You need to discuss the "lean running" issue, and the measurement of vacuum - there are charts Bosch provides to measure pressure and vacuum - for both "warming-up" and "fully warm" conditions. Perhaps break this down?
Thanks for the video - I have an 82 Delorian - I’m having that issue - when the engine is cold it starts then dies. If you try to open the throttle it dies. After 3 or 4 starts it warms a bit and runs - can’t touch the throttle for at least a few minutes. Then runs fine.
I’m going after the warm up valve - thanks!
always appreciated. helps me think my way through my repairs.
I think i've a problem with my WUR " volvo 740 GLE" Thanks a lot!
Simple, but well done...thank you!
gotta love he's work
Good stuff.
Super informative!
I have unpluuged electrical lead to the WUR on my 1983 280SL and if anything car seems to start better when cold - does that imply a knackered WUR + some jiggery pokery to get the car to start at all when cold I wonder.....Mike
Hi, The pipe on the top of the WUR is for air brether only and it didn`t connect to any
vacuum line!
It depend on model
Great video.
Great video. Thanks
Thanks for the video man
I cut open the FD to WUR gas line apart in the middle of the fat part to make an adapter for a fuel gauge.
Theres a ft and a half long tube made of plastic that I pulled out .
Its ends are pinched shut .
Im guessing it creates resistance for fuel flow... I may need to use an intact line when testing pressures .
explain what shout have on electric connector ?
12V ? when ? or something else
Thanks
Thank you for the info. I'll subscribe and learn more. Thank you very much :)
My ‘80 450SL runs great! 20/gallon sometimes more I swear. I do plan to rebuild the WUR on my car because it’s good practice imo. I’ve done way more work on the SEL. Lol
Thank you for teaching us about these cars. It’s a great feeling to be independent and do things myself.
p.s. you are still Boss Benz! 😊
Maria, you were too nice to meet you. Keep up the good work. Rebuilding a warm-up regulator is usually a good use of time on cars that have sat around with Rusty gas tanks. I find that you real problem is mastering the warm-up regulator adjustment, which I need to get better at.
Usually warm up regulator rebuilds are best for cars that have had Rusty gas tanks. I think in your case you might want to master the pressure test of the K system first.
Pierre Hedary Yes. I’m hoping I can make it to your tech session. Fingers crossed. Thanks Pierre! I agree with you. I’m super rusty on a lot of the simple tests. I just haven’t had to do it. Now with these cars I get to test and I enjoy it.
i have 79 porche 924 three of my fuel injectors constantly blast. i changed injector and rebuilt fuel ditributor still blasts and i get fuel in oil. any suggestions
I have a 450SL running lean, the control pressure goes WAY up once it start to heat. While running it will start to stall, the backfires through the pressure plate and runs again afterwards. Very lean I guess. I'm also unable to find the exact vacuum diagram for my 77" and unsure how to hook everything up. Looks like someone was messing with the lines. aghhhh
I can't find WUR on my 1989, 420sel w126. Did they deleted it and switch to different kind of sensors?
I have an '88 W460 230GE (4 cyl) with the M102 engine. Does it have a WUR and if so where is it located?
My friend has a 1984 380SL, and I have been trying to figure out the intermittent stalling problem. The car is totally unusable due to the fact that it could stall at any time. Sometimes it would go for 40 miles with no problem, or not even go two blocks and then have to sit for a few minutes to restart, or it could take several hours. I have replaced or inspected the entire fuel system, and I still cannot get it to run right. It has a new accumulator as the diaphragm in the old one was leaking like a sieve, a new filter was put in, a new TPS was installed and adjusted to specs as the old one had corroded contacts in it, I rebuilt the WUR according to Colin's web site after we bought a kit from him.
Pump pressure is 7.8 Bar off of the center port of the fuel distributor, but does drop off rather quickly when the pump is shut off.
The WUR fuel ports hold vacuum, but not pressure, even just blowing with my mouth I can hear air coming out the other port. Yes, the new rubber quad ring is in the fuel cell under the diaphragm and the little rod is pushing against the diaphragm. Shouldn't the spring pressure on the diaphragm be establishing a seal between the diaphragm and the quad ring?
I know that it's not an ignition problem, as I got a good jolt one time when it was in its failure mode, leaving only fuel as the culprit. The fuel system pressure is just under 1 Bar as I recall with everything hooked up. I built two fuel lines to hook up the WUR during the adjustment phase so I wouldn't have to bend the metal lines all out of shape. The heating element is to spec and I believe that there is power going to it.
Does the fuel distributor need to be rebuilt again? It was done when a previous owner had the car, I have no idea how long ago or how many miles. The injectors have all been replaced with new seals and a new rubber plenum was installed as well as many vacuum hoses and fittings.
We will GREATLY appreciate any help you can give us on this problem!!
Many thanks,
Randy and Carolyn
Randy
either fuel pump relay or ignition control unit. if you have checked these please feel free to email me ...mbownersforlife@bellsouth.net
Hello, Pierre. I have a W126 1984 380SEL. It runs rich when cold. When hot - loss of power, if i accelerate too hard it starts to choke. I tried messing with air check valve. When cold, need that check valve. When hot - chokes with valve, but when i remove it, runs better. My car spent 14 years in garage. Fuel pump was replaced. Cant replace fuel filter, because nuts are really stuck.
This is an interesting case. So if the car is sitting for 14 years, there's going to be a lot more wrong with it than just the air slide valve. First of all, the air slide should open when cold and closed when warm. If it's not doing that, then soak the inside of it and then reinstall it on the engine. As it transitions from cold to warm tap it gently with a rubber Hammer. That may get it to move. However, I think you need to do a pressure test. in the line coming into the warm-up regulator, the one with the 14 millimeter nut, you need to have 3.4 23.8 bar of pressure when the car is fully warmed up. Also make sure that this thing does not have a single row timing chain
My email is mbownersforlife@gmail.com
@@thisisnightshop2037 Thanks, for replying. Mine has dual row timing chain. I already soaked/cleaned my idle air valve. Forgot to mention, that i have rebuilt my FD, because the plunger was sticking. I know, i have a bad fuel accumulator. I will do a pressure test in the future. I not sure about my WUR's diaphragms. Thanks again.
Hello nice video bro
I have issues when turning my 450 SL 1977 when its warm
Should i change the regulator? Get a new one?
I live in Lebanon and im not able to fix at any Mecanics they dont seem to understand the vacuum thing.
Hi, got a kjet with a bad WUR, runs great when engine is warm/operating temp, would I be okay to take it on a road trip if it meant having to warm it up before hand
what if I remove it completely for good? planning to take out the whole ecu and system.. I already made a spark module..
Pierre how do we contact you now for questions? Bellsouth email bounced
Hi pierre, the air injection pump is noisey on my 560 sl. Can I just take belt off? Or do I have to replace it?
Hi, any follow-up? Did you remove belt? I was going to do this but don't want a check engine light on.....
will the warm up reg keep my 380 sl from starting, because it would keep my volkswagen from starting
I have a problem with the car idling after warm-up. No trouble starting but once it begins to warm-up the idle speed drops. When warm it won't idle and runs rough. I am looking at the warmup regulator. Could this be a crack in hose /air leak or the regulator itself. From the normal idle and no problems, each time I started it, the idle speed went down a few 100 rpm when warm and finally it would not idle at all and there is some backfiring. Any ideas?
Hello, @dennisspors5264 and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
Hello can a bad wur make dont start the car.? Thanks
Does this also apply to the m103 engine? My 300SE only starts if I press the gas pedal slightly and does not idle higher when cold (actually nearly dies when completely cold but normalizes very quickly as it warms up). Once warm it idles well (with very, very slight stumbles). It never has any issue when driving, runs very smoothly and accelerates well.
G Maximillian no. M103 has no wur
@@stentuning Thank you, do you know what controls the (higher) idle at startup in that case?
could be the EHA needs adjusting
What about m103 engine? Is there any of that in a m103 engine too? Just recently my car had a really bad rough idle issue after a long road trip. I've cleaned up the air intake and replaced the spark plugs but the result is unsuccessful. It sounded like 2 pistons misfire or something.
In this case, no. The m103 engine uses ke jetronic. I would check each port on your fuel distributor and make sure that they are delivering gasoline as required. If two or more ports are under delivering fuel, you may have an issue with the fuel distributor.
Will a bad warm up regulator cause a stall
SHOW IT IN THE ENGINE BAY AND NOT IN YOUR HAND. PLEASE.
Pierre, how is the revolution in the MBCA going, since we are close to the 14th of July ?
Just wondering.
It's not going anywhere.about the time I made this video they decided that they were not going to do anything with my event. So I'm having my own
@@thisisnightshop2037
Put away the guillotine ?
Business as usual ?
Or ? Operation successful, patient is dead.
Until the 'old guard' dies off ?
Sad situation, but not getting me to join, sorry.
I am glad you are continueing on your own !!
Hello, I have a 6.9. I have an acceleration hesitation. I suspect is this valve, how do you adjusted?
Hello, Tomas F Blohm and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
Hey bud , quick question my 1974 450sl engine oil kinda smells like gas and you could smell gas when the car is on . It's running rich . It's the engine done , I just bought the car but it didn't smell like it when I bought it . Did I get royally screwed ?
no, you did not. I think that your issue is probably tie to a bad MAP sensor. Your manifold pressure sensor which sits underneath the brake booster is responsible for regulating mixture on a d jetronic car. you may have a broken vacuum line going to it, or the screw on the warm-up regulator may be turned out too far.
If you have additional questions you may email me at mbownersforlife@gmail.com
I think that your issue is with your map sensor. The manifold pressure sensor, or map sensor, sits next to the brake booster on a 450 SL. The vacuum line going to is broken or the sensor adjusting screw is backed out too far you will experience this issue. Please change your oil that when you have a chance. If you have additional questions you may email me at mbownersforlife@gmail.com
@@thisisnightshop2037 thank you brother
My euro m110 with k- jet starts fine but as it heats up the revs drop to almost 500 rpm and feels like it’s going to stall. Is it the wur or slide hammer?
I have a euro and 110 with the exact same symptom. Ever it figured out?
I replaced the auxiliary air valve with a new one which has helped quite a bit but I think the wur might need adjusting or rebuilding. I have just found an old Mercedes tech here in Denver that is going to check the cold and hot pressures before rebuilding the wur.
@UCDTOh7Fk-QSSpi24UJIcs5A please can you tell me why there is no petrol in the line to warm up regulator thank you
Hi, my ge 280 starts excellent and runs great, but after a few minutes acts like it's lacking fuel when I push the gas pedal, it's like it works on 5 cylinders, if I kill it and start again it runs great for a couple of minutes, and again loses power, can you help with any ideas?
Hello, +hogar strasni and thank YOU so much for your question(s), we want to answer you as quickly as possible.
By signing in our Patreon www.patreon.com/thomaspolk page and making a donation of $10 your are assured of a 24 hour email response from Pierre.
If you are already a $10 member please mention along with your question.
Hogar, its a 280-GE. Mercedes never made a "GE 280." sounds like your fuel pump is on the way out. you need to do a test to check your pressure. it should be at least 5.5 bar.
@@mercedesclassicswithpierre1753 found the problem, it was the small filter on the je tronic, thanks again for the advice
👋 hi Hogar Strasni.
So, with regards to the problem with your 280ge, on which Pierre advised you…
¿Did you have to replace, or clean your k-jet filter…? Or, as I have heard others do, did you eliminate the sometimes “problematic k-jet filter” and ADD in its place an in-line filament fuel filter ?
I also have a 280ge/w460, and have encountered a similar situation to yours
Thanks for any info !