OMG! 💯 I just got My DCD996 drill 2nd hand, it was pretty dirty so i pulled it apart and even cleaned the switch contacts that looked fine, in fact everything looked fine inside. I watched a video how to dismantle and it twigged it might be the torque sensor/e clutch being an issue, searched it here and found your video and IT'S FIXED! (was on setting one for torque) i have never heard of this before, GREAT VIDEO! Thanks
Thanks for the video. I just returned a DCD996 today. The e-clutch feature protects the tool, not the screws as it requires too much force to stop when using at speeds 1 and 2. Actually at speed 1 it doesn't clutch at all, so it's really a tool just suitable for heavy duty application, not as your all-in-one tool for around the house needs.
I just bought this set in a kit with impact driver for 300 dollars at Home Depot. I had no idea what the E clutch was. As soon as it kicked in I knew that DeWalt had made a special invention. I knew exactly the clutch was disengaging on purpose. I’m used to my old DeWalt brushes 18 Volt drill ripping my hands off. It is pure gold.
Thank you a lot! You saved me a trip to HD to return my drill I was looking for a solution to my problem and luckily I got here! Maybe a different title to your vid like learn more about e-clutch before returning your drill!
I usually wood screws with mine from time to time. When doing screws I will put it on the lowest torque and it seems to never activate the clutch. I feel the number 1 setting is much higher torque than a number 1 on say a lower end drill. Thoughts? I'm tempted to take mine back, had it for less than a year
i just got my new drill today, and just got the same problem, and yes, i thought it was broken. and i hated dewalt so much because of that and i was so lazy to ask the customer care. and out of nowhere i was just to watched youtube video randomly and arrived here. and after this video i kissed my drill. LOL. thank you sir
Many of these dewalt drill models have a problem with the speed switch not switching smoothly into 3rd gear and sometimes not at all. I had problems with 2 of them and retfurmed them back to Home Depot.
What Zack said. I have another drill that has the same (issue?). Just press the trigger a second and try to change gear again and it should work. Very rarely you might have to do it twice. Dont try changing gears whilst it is running, wait for it to stop spinning.
I also use a high torque setting when drilling to avoid getting my wrist twisted. Or to avoid the drillbit being milled by the chuck when the bit gets stuck for some reason (when the fixation area is not hex, of course)
Oh my good lord. Fuckn-A thanks man. I swear I was going to burn the damn drill in the pit because it kept doing that crap you were showing. Funny thing is it only did it in 3rd gear. But when I turned off that setting and just put it in drill mode...... it damn near gave my hand mega rug burn 😂 😂 😂. Bro, I held it real tight and it did it.. then I turn the clutch setting and gripped it just as tight 😂 😂 😂. I said, yep it works... and for good measure my dumbass held it tighter just to make sure. Good Jesus 😂
Thanks. Video is short but you have all the important information in it! I just bought a new DCD796 online and spent the whole weekend researching because i think what I got is a broken drill. The Customer Service of Dewalt here in the PH is very unresponsive. But you have provided 1 answer I'm looking for. There is another problem I have, maybe you could answer. Is it normal for you to hear a short loud gear noise every after your release the trigger switch? it sounded like the gears are sliding off or not aligned with each other. Thanks again
Awesome explanation. no long winded electronic science bs. To the point and easy to understand. I figured this out after 30 seconds of using mine on some m4 allen bolts. Its nice to have the old "clicking" impact type of action but if you think about it this new tech probably saves alot of wear on the transmission.
Ricky, I bought this drill a few days ago from Amazon. What I immediately noticed is that this drill produces loud thud when I release the trigger. I understand that drills have some sort of mechanism to brake chuck when the trigger is released. But this one is much louder compared to other drills. Is it normal to this model of drills?
Thanks for sharing. Instructions do not make mention of how the clutch behaves when it hits it torque level. Im sure I would have figured it out, but good to know before I dive into using the tool.
Thanks for posting back,I tried that but mine didn't come back on,not sure what the deal is,maybe not getting juice between the battery and trigger,light isn't even coming on,very disappointed,spent almost 2000.00 on this set up and having problems only after six months,gonna get them good g and sale em and switch back to Makita,but thank you for answering my question,wished mine was an easy fix like yours,by the way if you have the impact with this set I learned something,if you don't depress the bit hder when putting in and taking out the bit,the spring that holds the bearing goes bad really fast,only a six dollar fix but if you use them for work kinda sucks having to wait for delivery,thanks again
There is no such thing as customer service any more. Call any of them. Tell them ; When you install the battery onto the drill, then press the trigger, the chuck spins and makes a whiring sound. They will apologize for the trouble you having and attempt to troubleshoot it over the phone. "Is the battery fully charged? Does the panel light up? Did you have a nutritious breakfast. Before using it?
It's OK it got me too in fact I returned it to the store and the only one that knew what it was was the new guy that had only worked there less than a month 🙃
Rick! I need to pick your brain!!!! Mine is the DCD995 and I even tried using it on a stubborn oil pan bolt and it did that exact sound. So is it the drill? Or is it me not using it right? I have used this three times in the six years I have had it.
Use an impact wrench on stuck bolts not a drill driver. You will have more chance removing it with a manual wrench and a long bar than with a drill. You cannot change the laws of physics captain
So in other words instead of it just spinning and grinding the clutch it stops the motor because the chuck won’t be spinning at that torque setting anyway. In other words it’s saving battery and quieter than the clatter of a usual clutch.
Palpac you can have this drill on any of the 1-3 torque settings and this drill won't drill through a 2by4 without stopping three times usings a 3/4 spade bit lets say. Also any clutch setting as well. Now who in their right mind would think this "feature" would be handy? I want a drill that can drill, not stop multiple times because the safety features are kicking off power too soon. I'm sure Dewalt did this so retards don't overuse the drill to the extent of overheating it. They tried to make it dummy proof, but by doing so practically made the drill unusable.
aadoublea The 1-3 settings are for the drill speed. ( located on top of drill) The 1-11 settings are for clutch torque.(located on the collar of drill) There is also a drill bit and hammer drill settings on the collar if you select these it takes the clutch out of the picture. And I guarantee on drill setting it will go right through the 2x4 without stopping.
You are right Ricky, 1-3 are your drill speeds(not torque like I stated above) with one being the slowest and three being the fastest. I'm not disputing that, but those numbers also coincide with the amount of torque applied. In setting one you have the least amount of speed and the most amount of torque applied, and in setting three the most speed and least amount of torque. The clutch settings of 1-11 is the amount of torque that can be applied before the clutch engages and takes that amount of torque away. So 1-3 is engaging torque and 1-11 is disengaging torque. Palpac acted like it was a nifty idea that Dewalt made a fancy saftey feature that stops the drill so he doesn't have to hear the clickety clack of the clutch. I was just saying that on my 996 brand new out of the box with a larger spade bit that it would not drill through a 2by4 on setting 1 and the clutch setting on drill icon. Dewalt didn't make it so the drill stopped so you didn't have to hear clutch noise or save on battery. And like previously stated the drill doesn't use the clutch when set to the "drill icon" anyways. They did this as a safety feature so as to not fry the internals of the drill aka overheat/etc. All I am saying is: the flaw in this drill is the safety feature that comes on to early thus stopping the drill before it can get through a 4by4. And yes, you are right on that as well. It probably will make it through a 2by4 without stopping with a large spade bit. I looked in the garage last night and my test piece was a 4by4 with a one inch bit. This is taken from the manual: The three-speed feature of your tool allows you to shift gears for greater versatility. To select speed 1 (highest torque setting), turn the tool off and permit it to stop. Slide the gear shifter (F) all the way forward. Speed 2 (middle torque and speed setting) is in the middle position. Speed 3 (highest speed setting) is to the rear.
Huh, well I'll be goshed darned! Dewalt was kind enough to tell us right in the manual that if at first the drill doesn't succeed, just give up or risk ruining drill. Well isn't that nice. So what do they expect me to do? Use the drill to get halfway through a board and then switch to a better drill to get the rest of the way through? I don't fucking have time for that shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So yeah if I have an inch to go I'm sure as hell going to depress that trigger and try her again!!!!!!!!!! From manual: WARNING: Drill may stall if overloaded causing a sudden twist. Always expect the stall. Grip the drill firmly to control the twisting action and avoid injury. 5. IF DRILL STALLS , it is usually because it is being overloaded or improperly used. RELEASE TRIGGER IMMEDIATELY , remove drill bit from work, and determine cause of stalling. DO NOT DEPRESS TRIGGER ON AND OFF IN AN ATTEMPT TO START A STALLED DRILL - THIS CAN DAMAGE THE DRILL.
Hi there, mine was working just fine when suddenly it stop working. When I push the trigger, the light flashes one time and nothing else happens. Any ideas? Thanks
I guess I'm not the only one.... Everybody got a hard on for the brushless stuff, but if the electronics that these motors must have to actually operate can't handle what the drill is made to do aka DRILLING then really what good are they?! FUCK DEWALT!
Thanks for helpful review. I won dewalt & makita's several brushless impact hammer drill. I did look at specifications due to torque and rpm ratio 0-450 / 0-1,300 / 0-2,000 RPM, it is recommended to use load speed 1 with clutch settings 1. However i am not encountering this problem when bettery is fully charged. Bottom line: DCD996 is absolutely a good peice of engineering.
I've designed motor control electronics in the robotics industry. IMO the 996 e-clutch sucks. On the fast speed it almost dosent matter what setting the clutch is in, it cuts out at the same quite low torque around 6-15 inch pounds. It's maybe like 6-11 on the low and 9-15 on the high clutch setting. I can think of 10 better control systems, doubly so to make it behave more like the old detent which is what many people expect when it's advertised as a clutch. This was implemented like they went to a college and got a free EE undergrad to design it for them. It's sad because otherwise the drill seems extremely solid.
If it stops, turn up the torque setting. Not exactly rocket science. As others said, if you drill with a torque setting this might happen - so dont! Set the drill to the symbol for a drill when drilling. Not sure why people cant work that out.
RTFM. Baffling how onlyn a small percentile of people will read the manual before replacing the tool or spending all day on the phone with tech support.
My dewalt dcd777 will click about 3 times when stopping if I have a heavy bit on it like say a paint and rust wheel. Not sure if its hurting it. Anyone elses clutch click all the damn time
Garbage feature. I use the old model with mechanical clutch. When I tap holes the old style clicks but continuously walks the tap in little by little without breaking the tap. The new style just cuts off immediately. Since I've figured out this little trick I haven't broke 1 tap. But with this new style your forced to turn it up to drill and use the in and out tapping method, with that your gonna break more taps guaranteed.
Robert maybe I could have been more clear. It’s not broken, it is designed to operate like that. If it stalls then up the setting on the clutch and give it another go.
I just got mine and the chuck is stuck in the open position, the 3 teeth don't close for shit and i can't spin it clockwise to close them, what the fuck?
Maybe it's like Star Wars and if you were expecting one thing and got another (like moves 1-3) you would be disappointed. I personally liked how the detent clutch worked and otherwise think the drill is solid after about 10 hrs of use so far, but I hate the clutch and now lug around my old dw987 with it.
I no longer have the cinfianca I had in dewalt products. I bought 10 times the same product and always have the same problem. I called the technical assistance and they said there was no reason for recall. I returned it and I don't want the DCD966 anymore. th-cam.com/video/7AxbdBYmIUY/w-d-xo.html
This is a poor excuse for a overpriced ( top of the line drill ). The torque setting is to save your bits from snapping if its in drill mode you are sure to snap bits or worse your wrist . Give me the old style clutch any day. 🤬😠
It's extremely lame. I've designed electronics for motor control equipment in industry. If they wanted an e-clutch they would use the current sense to provide the optimal "trigger position" to give that torque automatically and continuously, and feather in the actual position of the trigger to back off even more so it behaves like the old detent mechanism. As it is, even on the slow high tongue setting, it triggers way too easy then shuts off completely and dosent have great consistency and on the fast speed the position of the clutch setting almost dosent matter. I can't return it cause I got it on eBay cheap, but I don't recommend this drill. The clutch sucks pretty bad.
It's misleading to even call it a clutch when there is no mechanism to provide actual slipping. The current sense being used as a measure of torque isn't the same thing.
burtosis a clutch is used to engage and disengage power deliver it’s exactly what this does despite you trying to deny it its a way better system then a mechanical one
There is no clutch in this dewalt. On actual clutch models dewalt sold, you had to change the setting or it could be difficult to actually tighten the keyless chuck hard enough because it would slip on some settings. This drill dosent have that issue because it dosent have a clutch. I've tried it on a variety of fastners and am not really impressed in repeatability or range of torque. In fact, if you actually read my comment above, I say it sucks because it's not very well designed at all and if I could I would have returned it because the "e-clutch" is that bad and ruins what appears to be an otherwise ssolid drill. People complained that the battery feels a bit loose, and it is, but it dosent seem to be a problem yet.
burtosis I find the clutch good I suits me don’t need to listen to the grinding of the standard clutch on other models Battery fit isn’t great but no problem so far
Do you mean that after a few times using the brake the chuck loosens? If so, this is a common issue and isn't a problem with the chuck but with the operator not knowing how to use the chuck lock. So after you tighten the Chuck and hear the ratchet clicking, you need to turn the chuck anticlockwise and it'll click back and go a bit loose. The chuck is now locked and no more bit dropping will occur.
You thought this, you thought that, you wondered this and wondered that, yet, it didn't come to your mind to increase the clutch setting? This is how trump got elected lol.
THis video does save me some time cuz I thought my drill was broken too. But after decades of using a mecnanical clutch - I can tell you - this e-clutch sucks! If you think it's going to give you any type of torque control driving screws - forget it! Bad design - I am sorry.
Nearly tore my skin trying to test the clutch.
Now I know the drill isn't faulty.
Thanks man.
I hear ya brother 😂 😂 😂
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣it's 10pm at night I just got mine today I was gonna rip my hand apart trying to stop this in hammer mode🤣🤣🤣🤣
OMG! 💯 I just got My DCD996 drill 2nd hand, it was pretty dirty so i pulled it apart and even cleaned the switch contacts that looked fine, in fact everything looked fine inside. I watched a video how to dismantle and it twigged it might be the torque sensor/e clutch being an issue, searched it here and found your video and IT'S FIXED! (was on setting one for torque) i have never heard of this before, GREAT VIDEO! Thanks
I just bought mine 30 minutes ago and was about to take it back, lol. Best freaking video on youtube!
Thanks for the video. I just returned a DCD996 today. The e-clutch feature protects the tool, not the screws as it requires too much force to stop when using at speeds 1 and 2. Actually at speed 1 it doesn't clutch at all, so it's really a tool just suitable for heavy duty application, not as your all-in-one tool for around the house needs.
I just bought this set in a kit with impact driver for 300 dollars at Home Depot. I had no idea what the E clutch was. As soon as it kicked in I knew that DeWalt had made a special invention. I knew exactly the clutch was disengaging on purpose. I’m used to my old DeWalt brushes 18 Volt drill ripping my hands off. It is pure gold.
Just got the same kit👌
Eric L I had to take it back. Impact driver overheats badly.
Thank you a lot! You saved me a trip to HD to return my drill I was looking for a solution to my problem and luckily I got here! Maybe a different title to your vid like learn more about e-clutch before returning your drill!
Awesome! Thank for the video. I was just repacking up my drill to return back to HD, thinking it was broken. Saved me a trip.
I usually wood screws with mine from time to time. When doing screws I will put it on the lowest torque and it seems to never activate the clutch.
I feel the number 1 setting is much higher torque than a number 1 on say a lower end drill. Thoughts? I'm tempted to take mine back, had it for less than a year
i just got my new drill today, and just got the same problem, and yes, i thought it was broken. and i hated dewalt so much because of that and i was so lazy to ask the customer care. and out of nowhere i was just to watched youtube video randomly and arrived here. and after this video i kissed my drill. LOL. thank you sir
Try it on the "Drill" setting, not the various driver torque settings.
Thanks, was about to return my drill and this helped me a lot.
Many of these dewalt drill models have a problem with the speed switch not switching smoothly into 3rd gear and sometimes not at all. I had problems with 2 of them and retfurmed them back to Home Depot.
I noticed that. I pulled out my hammer drill to use it needing the torque and I couldn't switch it out of first.
If your having issues changing gear press trigger to advance Chuck a little will take tension off drive line and should shift smooth.
What Zack said. I have another drill that has the same (issue?). Just press the trigger a second and try to change gear again and it should work. Very rarely you might have to do it twice. Dont try changing gears whilst it is running, wait for it to stop spinning.
Why would you use a torque setting for drilling?
Right, as if there isn't literally a picture of a drill bit on the clutch knob lol.
To keep from breaking bits when they get caught when drilling metal. Also, to keep from hurting yourself when bits get caught when drilling metal.
I also use a high torque setting when drilling to avoid getting my wrist twisted. Or to avoid the drillbit being milled by the chuck when the bit gets stuck for some reason (when the fixation area is not hex, of course)
I like the accidental LED light into the camera lol DeWalt rocks
Oh my good lord. Fuckn-A thanks man. I swear I was going to burn the damn drill in the pit because it kept doing that crap you were showing. Funny thing is it only did it in 3rd gear. But when I turned off that setting and just put it in drill mode...... it damn near gave my hand mega rug burn 😂 😂 😂. Bro, I held it real tight and it did it.. then I turn the clutch setting and gripped it just as tight 😂 😂 😂. I said, yep it works... and for good measure my dumbass held it tighter just to make sure. Good Jesus 😂
Helpful, thanks for sharing
Great video. I was going to take mine back until I watched this. Thanks 👍🏼
Took me one second to realise it was an e clutch .
Drill is great and clutch way better then the old style
Thanks. Video is short but you have all the important information in it! I just bought a new DCD796 online and spent the whole weekend researching because i think what I got is a broken drill. The Customer Service of Dewalt here in the PH is very unresponsive. But you have provided 1 answer I'm looking for. There is another problem I have, maybe you could answer. Is it normal for you to hear a short loud gear noise every after your release the trigger switch? it sounded like the gears are sliding off or not aligned with each other. Thanks again
Awesome explanation. no long winded electronic science bs. To the point and easy to understand. I figured this out after 30 seconds of using mine on some m4 allen bolts. Its nice to have the old "clicking" impact type of action but if you think about it this new tech probably saves alot of wear on the transmission.
Ricky, I bought this drill a few days ago from Amazon. What I immediately noticed is that this drill produces loud thud when I release the trigger. I understand that drills have some sort of mechanism to brake chuck when the trigger is released. But this one is much louder compared to other drills. Is it normal to this model of drills?
Exactly what I needed to know! Thank you so much! Kind of a great feature!
Thanks for saving half my Satuday!
I'm glad I watched this video before my purchase of the DCK299P2 kit so I will fully understand the clutch on the drill thx
Good job, Ricky. Too many haters on this thread. We're not all geniuses. Ricky wasnt the only one baffled by this design.
Thanks for sharing. Instructions do not make mention of how the clutch behaves when it hits it torque level. Im sure I would have figured it out, but good to know before I dive into using the tool.
Hi ! I know it’s been awhile but what s the selection we have to make it work right , thanks
How did you get yours to strat back working
Thanks for posting back,I tried that but mine didn't come back on,not sure what the deal is,maybe not getting juice between the battery and trigger,light isn't even coming on,very disappointed,spent almost 2000.00 on this set up and having problems only after six months,gonna get them good g and sale em and switch back to Makita,but thank you for answering my question,wished mine was an easy fix like yours,by the way if you have the impact with this set I learned something,if you don't depress the bit hder when putting in and taking out the bit,the spring that holds the bearing goes bad really fast,only a six dollar fix but if you use them for work kinda sucks having to wait for delivery,thanks again
I tossed my drill in the draw thinking it was a lemon… thanks for making this post . I’ll give it a second go
There is no such thing as customer service any more. Call any of them. Tell them ; When you install the battery onto the drill, then press the trigger, the chuck spins and makes a whiring sound. They will apologize for the trouble you having and attempt to troubleshoot it over the phone. "Is the battery fully charged? Does the panel light up? Did you have a nutritious breakfast. Before using it?
In Defense it’s hard to know exactly what the sound someone is describing is over the phone .
It's OK it got me too in fact I returned it to the store and the only one that knew what it was was the new guy that had only worked there less than a month 🙃
What are those little doodles on the side of the chunk of wood in the vise?
Karl Ruehs those are just my daughters scribbles
Rick! I need to pick your brain!!!! Mine is the DCD995 and I even tried using it on a stubborn oil pan bolt and it did that exact sound. So is it the drill? Or is it me not using it right? I have used this three times in the six years I have had it.
Use an impact wrench on stuck bolts not a drill driver. You will have more chance removing it with a manual wrench and a long bar than with a drill. You cannot change the laws of physics captain
I returned my Milwaukee because of that feature … it just didn’t feel good and consistent
So in other words instead of it just spinning and grinding the clutch it stops the motor because the chuck won’t be spinning at that torque setting anyway. In other words it’s saving battery and quieter than the clatter of a usual clutch.
Exactly
Palpac you can have this drill on any of the 1-3 torque settings and this drill won't drill through a 2by4 without stopping three times usings a 3/4 spade bit lets say. Also any clutch setting as well. Now who in their right mind would think this "feature" would be handy? I want a drill that can drill, not stop multiple times because the safety features are kicking off power too soon. I'm sure Dewalt did this so retards don't overuse the drill to the extent of overheating it. They tried to make it dummy proof, but by doing so practically made the drill unusable.
aadoublea
The 1-3 settings are for the drill speed. ( located on top of drill)
The 1-11 settings are for clutch torque.(located on the collar of drill)
There is also a drill bit and hammer drill settings on the collar if you select these it takes the clutch out of the picture. And I guarantee on drill setting it will go right through the 2x4 without stopping.
You are right Ricky, 1-3 are your drill speeds(not torque like I stated above) with one being the slowest and three being the fastest. I'm not disputing that, but those numbers also coincide with the amount of torque applied. In setting one you have the least amount of speed and the most amount of torque applied, and in setting three the most speed and least amount of torque.
The clutch settings of 1-11 is the amount of torque that can be applied before the clutch engages and takes that amount of torque away. So 1-3 is engaging torque and 1-11 is disengaging torque. Palpac acted like it was a nifty idea that Dewalt made a fancy saftey feature that stops the drill so he doesn't have to hear the clickety clack of the clutch. I was just saying that on my 996 brand new out of the box with a larger spade bit that it would not drill through a 2by4 on setting 1 and the clutch setting on drill icon. Dewalt didn't make it so the drill stopped so you didn't have to hear clutch noise or save on battery. And like previously stated the drill doesn't use the clutch when set to the "drill icon" anyways. They did this as a safety feature so as to not fry the internals of the drill aka overheat/etc. All I am saying is: the flaw in this drill is the safety feature that comes on to early thus stopping the drill before it can get through a 4by4. And yes, you are right on that as well. It probably will make it through a 2by4 without stopping with a large spade bit. I looked in the garage last night and my test piece was a 4by4 with a one inch bit.
This is taken from the manual: The three-speed feature of your tool allows you to shift gears for greater
versatility. To select speed 1 (highest torque setting), turn the tool off and
permit it to stop. Slide the gear shifter (F) all the way forward. Speed 2
(middle torque and speed setting) is in the middle position. Speed 3
(highest speed setting) is to the rear.
Huh, well I'll be goshed darned! Dewalt was kind enough to tell us right in the manual that if at first the drill doesn't succeed, just give up or risk ruining drill. Well isn't that nice. So what do they expect me to do? Use the drill to get halfway through a board and then switch to a better drill to get the rest of the way through? I don't fucking have time for that shit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! So yeah if I have an inch to go I'm sure as hell going to depress that trigger and try her again!!!!!!!!!!
From manual: WARNING:
Drill may stall if overloaded causing a sudden twist.
Always expect the stall. Grip the drill firmly to control the twisting action
and avoid injury.
5.
IF DRILL STALLS
, it is usually because it is being overloaded or
improperly used.
RELEASE TRIGGER IMMEDIATELY
, remove
drill bit from work, and determine cause of stalling.
DO NOT
DEPRESS
TRIGGER ON AND OFF IN AN ATTEMPT TO
START A STALLED DRILL - THIS CAN DAMAGE THE
DRILL.
Great video well explained, thank you....
Um, they come with instructions. Wow.
Instructions make no mention on the behaviour of the electronic clutch. I bought the DCK276P2.
lol faqs no1 reads anymore. i love the drill easy to understand and use.
Hi there, mine was working just fine when suddenly it stop working. When I push the trigger, the light flashes one time and nothing else happens. Any ideas? Thanks
The only thing I can find regarding the spot light flashing and the drill stopping is that it's a low battery warning.
I guess I'm not the only one.... Everybody got a hard on for the brushless stuff, but if the electronics that these motors must have to actually operate can't handle what the drill is made to do aka DRILLING then really what good are they?! FUCK DEWALT!
The wires on the switch use solder that sometimes forms dry joints. Maybe try that?
Great video thanks for posting 👍
Thank you very much.
Very helpful 👌 ☺
Dewalt has customer service?
Thanks for the info i thought I got a bad one
You have a drill bit drilling in a hole you need to put it into the drill setting I bet you it gos through
This video did not tell me how to correct the problem.
Thanks for helpful review. I won dewalt & makita's several brushless impact hammer drill.
I did look at specifications due to torque and rpm ratio 0-450 / 0-1,300 / 0-2,000 RPM, it is recommended to use load speed 1 with clutch settings 1. However i am not encountering this problem when bettery is fully charged.
Bottom line: DCD996 is absolutely a good peice of engineering.
I've designed motor control electronics in the robotics industry. IMO the 996 e-clutch sucks. On the fast speed it almost dosent matter what setting the clutch is in, it cuts out at the same quite low torque around 6-15 inch pounds. It's maybe like 6-11 on the low and 9-15 on the high clutch setting. I can think of 10 better control systems, doubly so to make it behave more like the old detent which is what many people expect when it's advertised as a clutch. This was implemented like they went to a college and got a free EE undergrad to design it for them. It's sad because otherwise the drill seems extremely solid.
You're a good man
I m about to open it for repair, Thank so much,
Thanks a lot that just happened to me I was really afraid
no it didnt. i dont get it. what do you have to do spin that black thing counterclockwise?
If it stops, turn up the torque setting. Not exactly rocket science. As others said, if you drill with a torque setting this might happen - so dont! Set the drill to the symbol for a drill when drilling. Not sure why people cant work that out.
RTFM.
Baffling how onlyn a small percentile of people will read the manual before replacing the tool or spending all day on the phone with tech support.
Oh no, I have gone deaf in my right ear!
Please check all wires, in my case, the black wire was broken. Greetings from Poland
My dewalt dcd777 will click about 3 times when stopping if I have a heavy bit on it like say a paint and rust wheel. Not sure if its hurting it. Anyone elses clutch click all the damn time
Dang i also thought i had messed my drill up... payed too much for my dewalt to get busted on the first task drilling thru a chassis frame jeje
Thanks for the video ......lol I was in the same boat ...... lol
Some Owners were saying that The E-Clutch wasn't working correctly... #GoFigure
Garbage feature. I use the old model with mechanical clutch. When I tap holes the old style clicks but continuously walks the tap in little by little without breaking the tap. The new style just cuts off immediately. Since I've figured out this little trick I haven't broke 1 tap. But with this new style your forced to turn it up to drill and use the in and out tapping method, with that your gonna break more taps guaranteed.
I drilled one hole and now it just clicks
Im considering buying this particular one off of amazon, good to know in case i buy it
Man, fcc, couldn't you make a stereo sound?
I spend a minute trying to find an earphone cord position to start hear normally again(
How do you fix it?
Robert maybe I could have been more clear. It’s not broken, it is designed to operate like that. If it stalls then up the setting on the clutch and give it another go.
I just got mine and the chuck is stuck in the open position, the 3 teeth don't close for shit and i can't spin it clockwise to close them, what the fuck?
I dont understand why this I a surprise?
You are drilling in a low torque setting 😁
Anyway the the 996 is great👌🏼
Maybe it's like Star Wars and if you were expecting one thing and got another (like moves 1-3) you would be disappointed. I personally liked how the detent clutch worked and otherwise think the drill is solid after about 10 hrs of use so far, but I hate the clutch and now lug around my old dw987 with it.
I no longer have the cinfianca I had in dewalt products. I bought 10 times the same product and always have the same problem. I called the technical assistance and they said there was no reason for recall. I returned it and I don't want the DCD966 anymore. th-cam.com/video/7AxbdBYmIUY/w-d-xo.html
Half a Saturday?
i got no sound ?
You also need to be in gear 1 i know that the way with my 999
Best Drill I've Ever Owned!!!!!
This is a poor excuse for a overpriced ( top of the line drill ). The torque setting is to save your bits from snapping if its in drill mode you are sure to snap bits or worse your wrist . Give me the old style clutch any day. 🤬😠
Really i dont know that dewalt have this safety features
American guy take 12 hours to undersand vs any technical man on earth, solving time, 5 to 60 second.
Really? Dude it's pretty clear that it's just the clutch. Did you really waste half a day of your time and Dewalt's time on this? Damn.
It's extremely lame. I've designed electronics for motor control equipment in industry. If they wanted an e-clutch they would use the current sense to provide the optimal "trigger position" to give that torque automatically and continuously, and feather in the actual position of the trigger to back off even more so it behaves like the old detent mechanism. As it is, even on the slow high tongue setting, it triggers way too easy then shuts off completely and dosent have great consistency and on the fast speed the position of the clutch setting almost dosent matter. I can't return it cause I got it on eBay cheap, but I don't recommend this drill. The clutch sucks pretty bad.
You don’t understand how a clutch works do you ?
It's misleading to even call it a clutch when there is no mechanism to provide actual slipping. The current sense being used as a measure of torque isn't the same thing.
burtosis a clutch is used to engage and disengage power deliver it’s exactly what this does despite you trying to deny it its a way better system then a mechanical one
There is no clutch in this dewalt. On actual clutch models dewalt sold, you had to change the setting or it could be difficult to actually tighten the keyless chuck hard enough because it would slip on some settings. This drill dosent have that issue because it dosent have a clutch. I've tried it on a variety of fastners and am not really impressed in repeatability or range of torque. In fact, if you actually read my comment above, I say it sucks because it's not very well designed at all and if I could I would have returned it because the "e-clutch" is that bad and ruins what appears to be an otherwise ssolid drill.
People complained that the battery feels a bit loose, and it is, but it dosent seem to be a problem yet.
burtosis I find the clutch good I suits me don’t need to listen to the grinding of the standard clutch on other models
Battery fit isn’t great but no problem so far
Lol half a Saturday to figure out how it's working?
It's a junk drill . Mine is unusable . The bits are all over the place . It wobbles in my hand .
that sounds more of a headache then a feature
Dewalt chuck don't hold a bit that suck
Do you mean that after a few times using the brake the chuck loosens? If so, this is a common issue and isn't a problem with the chuck but with the operator not knowing how to use the chuck lock.
So after you tighten the Chuck and hear the ratchet clicking, you need to turn the chuck anticlockwise and it'll click back and go a bit loose. The chuck is now locked and no more bit dropping will occur.
Rodger Quinn Exactly, it’s a feature and a good one. Not all drills have chuck lock.
Thats Adam Sandler!!
Anton Villarina Yea, if Adam Sandler gained 150 pounds!
RTFM!
I cave man knows this 🤦🏻♂️
You thought this, you thought that, you wondered this and wondered that, yet, it didn't come to your mind to increase the clutch setting?
This is how trump got elected lol.
Lol
THis video does save me some time cuz I thought my drill was broken too. But after decades of using a mecnanical clutch - I can tell you - this e-clutch sucks! If you think it's going to give you any type of torque control driving screws - forget it! Bad design - I am sorry.