Take a closer look inside. You may be able to salvage the wifi board as you only shorted the mains. In the UK it is not normal practice to connect brown to blue :)
@@notenoughtech That's a shame but worth the look. While it's open can you check the rating for the relay as a lot of these items specify a higher current than the relay can switch. Thanks for the videos.
So I have some problems with this device that you might pass onto ITEAD since you seem to be well connected to them. 1. There is a max voltage of 240V in the settings for the OPS. Given that 240V is standard in NZ, this is going to be a problem. 2. There's no 'Power-on state' option for any of these. So if I have this installed behind a fridge and the power goes out, I'll have to manually turn the switch back on so my food won't spoil. POW R2 has this feature so I know they have the technology. Tried to register for the ITEAD customer care center but it seems to not be working either.. 😕
So it has the exact same functionality as a shelly 2.5, but it is bigger, does not have exposed pins, has basically the same I/O and does not come with mqtt support out of the box? Yeah I’m sticking with the shelly :) Nice review, thank you very much! Too bad it burned but hey, shit happens. I myself did blow up a few sensors and I managed to fry a raspberry pi as well so there’s that hahahah Also these mistakes make for an interesting video!
Hello, great video! Tasmota support for ESP32 is in beta stage, maybe try to install ESPHome? I have ordered 2 pieces of this hardware, will see how it fit in to my smart home setup :-)
So to open and close a blind I can't use the Sonoff ZBmini? Am I right? Would I need this Sonoff DualR3 instead? (Does it also support Zigbee like the Sonoff ZBmini?)
poor Bambi, I don't have an excuse, but as soon as I seen the flash, I knew exactly what happened. That thought hit my brain as quick as the surge of current frying my fuse!
Thank you my friend for this beautiful explanation. I want to ask you a question from my friend. I installed it at home for the curtains, but unfortunately I have a problem that when I am inside the house and you are on the same router, it works and when I am outside the house, they give me that it is offline. Can you help me solve this problem, friend?
Are you using eWeLink? This indicates some security related issues. If you are doing all this in DIY mode, then you need port forwarding. But this only should apply when you flash your device with custom firmware. with eWelink you should be ok from outside your network
today I burned the same way, I used the life force of another cable and not the sonoff for the physical switch, now this one is dead too, it's okay that the method is connected in the manual, but it's useless that way, because in my case the switches are far away and I would not be able to use the same L in leaving the sonoff
My wife gave me funny looks as I yelled "No! Don't do it!" at my phone as I saw what was coming. But mistakes get made. I tripped my house RCD at the weekend with an embarrassing mistake, but lucky no hardware was harmed.
I had spent about 2 hours wiring a strip of LED's and my two engineering friends were like "don't plug it in!! I'm telling you it won't work, the voltage compounds!" ...I said no dude it will work...and the heads of the LED's all popped off when I did and I learned a valuable lesson that day. I'm not that smart. (I was supposed to wire it in series and not parallel, or vice versa I can't recall, remember I'm stupid?)
@@notenoughtech mistakes happen to us all. Kudos to you for not editing it out and leaving it as an example to everyone how careful you must be with electrickery, even though it cost you with some laughs at your expense. 👍
I really like sonoff devices but the that whole 10amp max load is always the down side of using their hardware as you find yourself constantly worrying about what you install on them.
I agree, I can't understand why there aren't a few 16 and 20 Amp options. I have had to use a 20 Amp DIN rail contactor energised by an RFR3 Smart Switch for my hot water geyser.
PS ! I am almost finished rewiring my complete house, and will have over 100 circuit breakers on my distribution board when I am finished, which means that very few of my circuits exceed 10 Amp, the exceptions are the hot water geyser, oven, air-conditioning units.
They are options, but expensive. Let's face it, majority of us will have circuits clamped at 16A with lights hitting at best 150W. 20A relays would appeal only to a small % of the customers while R&D would cost exactly the same
@@notenoughtech I've always assumed you should limit inductive loads to maybe 60% of resistive. According to this the dual R3 is essentially useless for inductive loads...
@@kcerasmus9890 My general unscientific rule of thumb has always been to take devices with 10A relays, run max 8-9A with resistive loads like lamps and no more than say 6A to 7A with inductive loads like heaters but then typical heaters aren't that inductive. I would not know where to draw the line with for example a hot tub heater or motor but I am running my 2kw house immersion heater off a similar 10A device and the controller only gets luke-warm. Ran on dual tariff 220v for months, on at 1am, off at 11am then a top up at 5pm for an hour. Manufacturers of these devices really should be more specific with instructions. All of this means nothing if you blow up the device 😂 mine should arrive soon, Chinese holidays permitting.
Hi, I need a delay off smart relay (switch on - relay on, switch off - relay delay several minutes before turn off). May I know which function / relay I can use?
Hi, Thanks for the video! I would like to measure my HVAC consumption. Requires about max 8 Amps - 230 V . You said the output could be max 1A at inductive load. Is it because of the relay? Can I solder short the relay output to withstand high inductive loads? I don't want to use the switch function at all. It has to be powered always on. Thank you!
Technically if you change the relay rating it could work but I'd be very careful with this approach. Sonoff has bigger units that can accommodate this. Check the powr2 series
I'm looking to control non-smart lamps and bulbs. since swapping to ye olde timer is kinda bulky, is this viable as a timer alternative? mainly for vacation house of sorts, no need internet, just the capability to adjust it when I'm physically at the location and be able to turn on and off by itself when I'm away
Please use an isolated screwdriver when playing around with mains voltage devices- always! You never know - this time you bricked your device by a mistake- next time ...
@@notenoughtech same as you never connect brown and blue wires together? As we all know Murphy is always around the corner. Shit happens and it is always good to expect mistakes. I use phase detecting isolated screwdrivers (these with a fluorescent mini bulbs) when I work on mains. Perfect size and good indicator even when I’’m sure I disconnected mains as I always do too.
@@christianmeinert8806 there is a big difference between working on a circuit and filming it. I know why made the mistake. There is a reason why I have the toolbox next to my extension lead. So each time I take my tools change the tips etc Im aware of the status of the device. Sure I made a mistake wiring it but as you noticed at the time of operation everything else was set to anticipate problems
Don’t get me wrong. I like your videos and channel! Great work! And there is no need for a long disclaimer. Only a small issue for children watching. “Don’t do this at home” 😀
@@christianmeinert8806 I usually leave this for when I actually show how to hack things. I think the in depth analysis in this video what went wrong kinda assumes that people will take care and pay attention to instruction included in the product.
Once I done it's setting, as scheduled settings and then wifi is turned off then it will work ? It always need wifi or just for settings and for remotely accessibility?
@@notenoughtech No joy - have tried to rescan on Alexa and Google Home apps, but they don't show up. I already have many older Sonoff devices on Google Home and recently added a Dual R2's. When I rescan, my Dual R3's does not show up. I guess that is why the package does not have the works with Google Assistant, nor the works with Amazopn Alexa logos
Thanks. I only use it on unpowered electronics. I keep my box next to the extension lead so I always know if what I am about to touch isn't plugged in :)
@@notenoughtech Matt how did you open the dual? I have one but the case is not the usual Sonoff mini style push and pop the lid off. I am hoping to get esphome or tasmota on this so I can have a smart light switch but also read some BLE temperature sensors at the same time. Just do not want to break the case forcing it open.
![[Live] : ONE FIGHT NIGHT 25 วันนี้!! "อเล็กซิส vs รีเกียน"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/suVr9a6BM2g/mqdefault.jpg)
![[ TEASER ] เงาะป่า - วงL.กฮ. | TMG RECORD](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/M4ObdFfcPww/mqdefault.jpg)
"Danger Will Robinson." 😁 Thanks Mat. Careful.
Haha too little too late I say
Take a closer look inside. You may be able to salvage the wifi board as you only shorted the mains. In the UK it is not normal practice to connect brown to blue :)
Sadly everything is dead. I extracted the ESP32 board to have w look at pinout. Article is updated with new pictures
@@notenoughtech That's a shame but worth the look. While it's open can you check the rating for the relay as a lot of these items specify a higher current than the relay can switch. Thanks for the videos.
@@briansmith7015 relays are rated 10A for 250VAC
Is this ElectroBOOM?? :)
I was very close!
So you cant hear me screaming all the way from Brazil. "DON'T DO IT!!!" :(
Haha I blame the timezone ... If you started earlier I would have heard it 🙈🙈🙈
That is an expensive way to test your OCPD! At least you know it works ;) But I'm happy to see ESP32's entering the Sonoff devices.
I'm inventing new tests for new devices :)
@@notenoughtech I'm excited to see your RCD test! :)
@@DustinWatts Hey, this time i didn't shock myself which is an improvement
So I have some problems with this device that you might pass onto ITEAD since you seem to be well connected to them.
1. There is a max voltage of 240V in the settings for the OPS. Given that 240V is standard in NZ, this is going to be a problem.
2. There's no 'Power-on state' option for any of these. So if I have this installed behind a fridge and the power goes out, I'll have to manually turn the switch back on so my food won't spoil. POW R2 has this feature so I know they have the technology.
Tried to register for the ITEAD customer care center but it seems to not be working either.. 😕
Hey thanks for the feedback I will pass it over via my contact.
So it has the exact same functionality as a shelly 2.5, but it is bigger, does not have exposed pins, has basically the same I/O and does not come with mqtt support out of the box? Yeah I’m sticking with the shelly :)
Nice review, thank you very much! Too bad it burned but hey, shit happens. I myself did blow up a few sensors and I managed to fry a raspberry pi as well so there’s that hahahah Also these mistakes make for an interesting video!
all my berries are still alive.. in fact this is my first blow up :D
Thanks for the video!!
Always a pleasure
Put some magic smoke back in it, it will be OK
And that is why I always buy 2 of something new
I'll adopt this moving forward now I have to wait until end of Chinese New year
It took me 5 minutes into the video to realize that this wasn't a shelly 2.5 v2 or something like that
I have these too - I'm terrified not to play with these haha
Hello, great video! Tasmota support for ESP32 is in beta stage, maybe try to install ESPHome? I have ordered 2 pieces of this hardware, will see how it fit in to my smart home setup :-)
For now might have problems with all of them 🙈
@@notenoughtech This has price advantage over the Shelly 2.5. But it's kind of useless if it's not supported by Tasmota or ESPHome.
I should get another one soon to play with
Watching the video "What does he mean he needs spliter - there is Lin free on the devi... Bam. Never mind..." :)
Pretty much so 🙈🙈
Someone else mentioned that GIO0 is the button on the other side.
Gpio00 is the the button so at least that's easy. Sonoff devices usually have the gpio00 link to a button
So to open and close a blind I can't use the Sonoff ZBmini? Am I right?
Would I need this Sonoff DualR3 instead? (Does it also support Zigbee like the Sonoff ZBmini?)
You need dual one to reverse the motor direction
dude! what are you doing to me! not shouted at a tv like that since bambi ! dont throw the switch!
poor Bambi, I don't have an excuse, but as soon as I seen the flash, I knew exactly what happened. That thought hit my brain as quick as the surge of current frying my fuse!
Thank you my friend for this beautiful explanation.
I want to ask you a question from my friend. I installed it at home for the curtains, but unfortunately I have a problem that when I am inside the house and you are on the same router, it works and when I am outside the house, they give me that it is offline.
Can you help me solve this problem, friend?
Are you using eWeLink?
This indicates some security related issues. If you are doing all this in DIY mode, then you need port forwarding. But this only should apply when you flash your device with custom firmware. with eWelink you should be ok from outside your network
I'll wait for the zigbee version :)
That would be cool as well
I have seen no Indication on their website of an intended RFR3 version.
today I burned the same way, I used the life force of another cable and not the sonoff for the physical switch, now this one is dead too, it's okay that the method is connected in the manual, but it's useless that way, because in my case the switches are far away and I would not be able to use the same L in leaving the sonoff
Mistakes happened I'm glad you are unharmed ;)
@@notenoughtech yes, everything is fine here and with the house, but it was a nice toast at the sonoff haha
Let's make it the last one toasted! Stay safe my friend ;)
My wife gave me funny looks as I yelled "No! Don't do it!" at my phone as I saw what was coming.
But mistakes get made. I tripped my house RCD at the weekend with an embarrassing mistake, but lucky no hardware was harmed.
I'm sure my wife gave me a funnier look as she was working remotely from home when I blew up the whole floor hahaha :D
I had spent about 2 hours wiring a strip of LED's and my two engineering friends were like "don't plug it in!! I'm telling you it won't work, the voltage compounds!" ...I said no dude it will work...and the heads of the LED's all popped off when I did and I learned a valuable lesson that day. I'm not that smart. (I was supposed to wire it in series and not parallel, or vice versa I can't recall, remember I'm stupid?)
I spotted the brown wire being connected with the blues then I realised what would happen... "noooooooo don't flip the sw.... never mind"
Well clearly my spotting skills fell down on my butt in this occasion 😂🤣😂
@@notenoughtech mistakes happen to us all. Kudos to you for not editing it out and leaving it as an example to everyone how careful you must be with electrickery, even though it cost you with some laughs at your expense. 👍
I think it serves a good lesson. You can never be too careful.
If you connect the R3 as a switch and have the on board button change the the channel's state?
yes thts is how it would work
I really like sonoff devices but the that whole 10amp max load is always the down side of using their hardware as you find yourself constantly worrying about what you install on them.
It's intended mainly for lamps and curtain motors. I hope that you are not planning on toggling stadium floodlights :)
I agree, I can't understand why there aren't a few 16 and 20 Amp options.
I have had to use a 20 Amp DIN rail contactor energised by an RFR3 Smart Switch for my hot water geyser.
PS ! I am almost finished rewiring my complete house, and will have over 100 circuit breakers on my distribution board when I am finished, which means that very few of my circuits exceed 10 Amp, the exceptions are the hot water geyser, oven, air-conditioning units.
They are options, but expensive. Let's face it, majority of us will have circuits clamped at 16A with lights hitting at best 150W. 20A relays would appeal only to a small % of the customers while R&D would cost exactly the same
You have a geyser in your back garden? Where are you, in Iceland? :D
Erm.. I can see 10A for resistive loads and 15A max for overall heat dissipation but since when does an inductive load reduce capability by 90% ??
Inrush current. Can be 10-40 times more than rated current for inductive loads.
@@notenoughtech I've always assumed you should limit inductive loads to maybe 60% of resistive. According to this the dual R3 is essentially useless for inductive loads...
@@PeterScargill They make it to drive shades not to operate cranes :)
@@PeterScargill Strange, I'm running a 2.2kW Borehole pump and a 1.1kW swimming pool pump off of a Dual R2 without a problem.
@@kcerasmus9890 My general unscientific rule of thumb has always been to take devices with 10A relays, run max 8-9A with resistive loads like lamps and no more than say 6A to 7A with inductive loads like heaters but then typical heaters aren't that inductive. I would not know where to draw the line with for example a hot tub heater or motor but I am running my 2kw house immersion heater off a similar 10A device and the controller only gets luke-warm. Ran on dual tariff 220v for months, on at 1am, off at 11am then a top up at 5pm for an hour. Manufacturers of these devices really should be more specific with instructions. All of this means nothing if you blow up the device 😂 mine should arrive soon, Chinese holidays permitting.
Hi, I need a delay off smart relay (switch on - relay on, switch off - relay delay several minutes before turn off). May I know which function / relay I can use?
Home automation panel in eWeLink is best bet. Not sure if you can disconnect the relay but you can introduce the delay before off action
Is that a fully metallic screw driver or am i missing something?
You are only missing this
notenoughtech.com/review/a-precision-screwdriver-in-power-armour-minidso-es121/
Hi, Thanks for the video!
I would like to measure my HVAC consumption. Requires about max 8 Amps - 230 V .
You said the output could be max 1A at inductive load.
Is it because of the relay?
Can I solder short the relay output to withstand high inductive loads?
I don't want to use the switch function at all. It has to be powered always on.
Thank you!
Technically if you change the relay rating it could work but I'd be very careful with this approach. Sonoff has bigger units that can accommodate this. Check the powr2 series
@@notenoughtech Thank You !
Why not make a video with Shelly products to compare !
On my list :)
When will be a new video Sonoff Dual R3
Easter. If you believe in resurrection ☺️
I'm looking to control non-smart lamps and bulbs. since swapping to ye olde timer is kinda bulky, is this viable as a timer alternative? mainly for vacation house of sorts, no need internet, just the capability to adjust it when I'm physically at the location and be able to turn on and off by itself when I'm away
If I remember correctly you have 8 timers available. I was not able to test but i think these would be per channel too
Dual r3 can be used to control ac motor.
Is there any way to control dc motor? Thanks
Yes. Actually in the same way
Bonjour,
Je viens de recevoir 4 modules de ce type. Je n'arrive pas à l'appairer pourriez-vous m'indiquer la procédure en WIFI et en Blutooth ? Merci.
Use BT option in eWeLink app to pair it. Make sure the app has access to location settings as this falls in BT usage policy
Hi, do you know how to calibrate the motor using sonoff dual r3?
Unfortunately until I get the replacement I can't experiment with it further
What is the price and where can i buy ??
Linked in the description (about $13)
Please use an isolated screwdriver when playing around with mains voltage devices- always! You never know - this time you bricked your device by a mistake- next time ...
I don't work on live terminals. So isolated screwdriver isn't really adding protection.
@@notenoughtech same as you never connect brown and blue wires together? As we all know Murphy is always around the corner. Shit happens and it is always good to expect mistakes. I use phase detecting isolated screwdrivers (these with a fluorescent mini bulbs) when I work on mains. Perfect size and good indicator even when I’’m sure I disconnected mains as I always do too.
@@christianmeinert8806 there is a big difference between working on a circuit and filming it. I know why made the mistake. There is a reason why I have the toolbox next to my extension lead. So each time I take my tools change the tips etc Im aware of the status of the device. Sure I made a mistake wiring it but as you noticed at the time of operation everything else was set to anticipate problems
Don’t get me wrong. I like your videos and channel! Great work! And there is no need for a long disclaimer. Only a small issue for children watching. “Don’t do this at home” 😀
@@christianmeinert8806 I usually leave this for when I actually show how to hack things. I think the in depth analysis in this video what went wrong kinda assumes that people will take care and pay attention to instruction included in the product.
Im unable to find info about if this thing only works in local wifi network or I can control it thru my friends internet in another city?
Link it to Ewelink app and you can control it anywhere
Once I done it's setting, as scheduled settings and then wifi is turned off then it will work ? It always need wifi or just for settings and for remotely accessibility?
It stores the schedule on the device
Thanks for the reply sir. Plz make a video on this issue if possible because I heard from someone that this device has no memory
Seems as of this date it does not integration with Amazon Alexa, Google Assistant, IFTTT, Google Nest ... :-(
I can see the integration in eWeLink app?
@@notenoughtech When I ask Alexa to add EWELINK devices, the DUAL R3 does not show up after the scan.
@@delaveganz is eWeLink account linked correctly? Do you have the control over it via app? Try renaming it to push the update through
@@notenoughtech No joy - have tried to rescan on Alexa and Google Home apps, but they don't show up. I already have many older Sonoff devices on Google Home and recently added a Dual R2's. When I rescan, my Dual R3's does not show up. I guess that is why the package does not have the works with Google Assistant, nor the works with Amazopn Alexa logos
🤷
any idea on which chip they are using for power measurement?
No I'm sorry but the article has pictures maybe you will figure out
@@notenoughtech thank you, i saw the photos and found the chip, its CSE7761 from ChipSea, couldn't find any english documentation regarding the chip
@@paulcanon5199 could be something in-house 🤷🏼
@@notenoughtech yea probably. trying to find alternate chip, i'm currently in the process of designing a similar device
Thanks Hans Gruber :p
You know I had been compared to Alan Rickman before.... :D I take the evil spin as a compliment too :)
Can i use it to switch between mains supply and solar supply as output ?
It depends on how you want the switch to work. Are you trying to switch over between solar and mains based on the output of the solar power?
@@notenoughtech ya it what I need
And i currently have a manual 2 way switch that does work
th-cam.com/video/JsOiLFolINw/w-d-xo.html
The wiring is likely so
Assuming that your circuit can be back fed without damage it should work
watch out for the screwdriver. it is all in metal!!!
Thanks. I only use it on unpowered electronics. I keep my box next to the extension lead so I always know if what I am about to touch isn't plugged in :)
You almost gave a heart attack to your wife or whoever is there, be careful dude.
Its how you condition love 😁😁
nice shirt mat
Mate works for F1 Merc team ;)
hehehe, the magic smoke.
My 1st sonoff corpse, considering I have been playing with these for years now, not a bad track recordrd
They say if you can capture all the smoke and put it back into the device, the device will work again.
@@kcerasmus9890 I had my vent on dammit. I did the post mortem. Esp is dead but I found gpio00 updated the article
@@kcerasmus9890 hah, love that idea.
@@notenoughtech Well since the smoke is gone, so is your chance to repair said item.
:D somthimes hapen so idiot mistake to me to :D :D
Argh device is dead :-) it happens sometimes ^^ hope you will be able to hack it. Very promising device!
Very good video as always!
I already pulled some strings to get one asap..now I'm waiting for strings to make the noise 😊
@@notenoughtech Matt how did you open the dual? I have one but the case is not the usual Sonoff mini style push and pop the lid off. I am hoping to get esphome or tasmota on this so I can have a smart light switch but also read some BLE temperature sensors at the same time. Just do not want to break the case forcing it open.
@@andymilne3527 it has the same U clips as mini.