Very good video explaining the process. I have a 320 4-pin that Iraggi built for my 97 Dodge, I was a little lost at first but got it down now, I'm running 18ah Lishen cells around 16v cold 15.5 hot. I think my Mechman 240 charges better though. Scot
Buy diodes and resistors. Very important. My js alt on my 05 f250 wouldn’t go past 14.9 no matter how many diodes I added(I went from 14.7 to 14.9) until I added resistors on the “other” wire opposite of the sense wire.
Nice video, Very detailed. If you can please help. I have a 2014 Camry 2.5 L. Can this process work on the stock alternator? And if so what wire. Thank you.
Now what do you do with the cars that are computer controlled and drop to 13.6 unless the computer adjusts because it sees that it needs the voltage? I have a 2012 Subaru Outback H4 I seen an article saying something about grounding out a particular wire in the computer harness???? Any input would be appreciated. I have a 360 amp autotech alt
I recently upgraded my alternator to a 370 amp alt for my car audio but my Battery saving Kees popping up. I upgraded my front battery and did a big 4. I have a 14 Chevy impala
@@sub-humansounds5645 great, that you for the reply. I'm planning on doing this to a 2018 Mitsubishi Mirage. It also has a 4 pin plug, so I'm sure the process is relatively similar. Can you explain further why the resistor is needed on the lamp wire when doing this modification? Why does it not come that way form the factory? Sorry, just trying to learn as much as I can before I attempt this myself and your video was one of the better ones I could find on TH-cam.
Yes. If you pull the plug out the alternator should have the the rest of the terminals. If so, just get a 4 pin harness and replace the factory harness. That will allow you to use the same factory wire that is going to pin 2 and you can add the connection for pin 4
Great video, I noticed this is on 5.7L Vortec model can this be applied on 2003 Burban 5.3L/ 5100 Vortec LS based engine with factory AD244 alt to increase the 14.7 voltage with no load and internal regulator would like to increase voltage for system and would be nice to have sat a controller/ knob to increase when needed and are there mods to increase amp output of OEM units or no and what about eBay hairpin units 300amp clams on a budget don’t have $500 plus dollars to drop on alt, I have two ENERSYS POWERSAFE SBS-190F BATTERY 12v 190AH
As long as it’s using the “4 pin” style harness this will help. This is mainly to help with the charging voltage for lithium cells though. Other battery types such as AGM are not designed to handle the excess voltage. With that said I ran mine at 15.3v unloaded for over a year with no problems on 600ah of AGM. This was 120 miles a day in my daily driver. I found this link online to help with the voltage range for AGM banks. Sorry for the late response I have been very inactive on TH-cam. support.rollsbattery.com/en/support/solutions/articles/4345-battery-charging-agm
Ever since i did this i get more light dim and what seems like slower charging/ more voltage drop. Do i need more bank? Im on a 320 amp alt and 40ah lto, using like 6100 watts
Theres many ways one easy way if u get another battery series it to increase voltage ⚡ other take out the alternator voltage ⚡ regulator n rectifier n use a rheostat potential meter adjustable to increase n decrease digital is better to see how much before engine stalls energy
🔴 I have two of these #OneWireAlternators. One is factory #acdelco 160amp the other is a identically made #powermaster 250amp. Both are grounded to the engine right now via a #dualmountingbracket but each one power wire goes to it's own battery. Basically two charging systems. My question is can I run both #OneWire alternators in parallel by just jumping the one wire over to the other alternator and then splice the factory sense wire and jump it over as well so that the Pcm only sees Basically one high powered alternator❓️Any info would be greatly appreciated. Btw, I left out that right now I'm controling the voltage output on the 250amp with a #PulseWaveModulator that operates at 128hz just like the factory one. I can turn it as low as 11.0 up to 15.4 volts output, but I don't have anything that let's me know that it's completely charged so I can turn it down. The factory alternator does this on it's on via the PCM and I'd like it all to work like that to relieve the guess work.
I do t do anything with the externally regulated alternators normally. You should be able to buy an adjustable external regulator and have it control both alternators. I think brand x makes on to control multiple alternators at one time
BOJACK 470 Ohm Resistors 1/2 W ±5% Carbon Film Single Resistor (Pack of 200 pcs) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRRX3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WWNKYZX7ES9QZMTDZ693
BOJACK 470 Ohm Resistors 1/2 W ±5% Carbon Film Single Resistor (Pack of 200 pcs) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRRX3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WWNKYZX7ES9QZMTDZ693
@@sub-humansounds5645 without diodes it charges 14.8 after that it don't matter if I add 1 or 4 diodes it only goes to 15v I replaced the regulator on the alt and the pig tail. It's a Apex 350a
Cold start itll barely touch 15.2 once it warms up it won't brake 15. I've tried different size diodes as well with the same results. Everything I do I'm getting these same results. I've drained the battery to 14.8 and tried also charged to 16 and tried all it dose is slowly go down to 15v everytime.
IN5404 is the part number I use. Chanzon (Pack of 50 Pieces) 1N5404 Rectifier Diode 3A 400V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5404 IN5404 3 Amp 400 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes www.amazon.com/dp/B079KC17FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GCBHDHA3ASCHFN8XRN8M
As a mechanic, all i can say is that there is so much WRONG with doing this and the part failures/severe issues this can/will cause is astounding!! Let me list a couple of potential issues and pose some relevant questions to you: If overcharging via voltage to an AGM or lead acid battery, how do you plan on dealing with the excess gas being vented? Thay gas is explosive, btw. Since this will only work on certain GM/Ford systems, what are you going to tell a Chrysler product owner that tries this and INSTANTLY fries his/her PCM, other ECMs, and potentially quite a bit of the under dash electrical system? European, Asian, and Chrysler products have the voltage regulation circuit built into the Engine PCM. How are you going to deal with the excessive heat, resistance, and internal stator wear of the alternator? An alternator can only produce amperage equal to it's build even if you increase the voltage output. Since voltage x amps = wattage and wattage can be equated to heat, how are you going to deal with the excess heat? If you equate DC electricity to water, I'll use this analogy to make a point: Voltage = water pressure, amperage = water flow volume. Most automobile electronics are made to operate under a set, but small, spectrum of voltage...that being 11.5v to 14.5v in the real world. Since you are increasing the voltage/pressure applied to those electronics, but not the amperage(electronics only "draw or consume" the amperage needed to function), you are now increasing the electrical pressure thus lowering the longevity of said electronics. Think of an electrical part as a stone and voltage as a water pressure jet hitting that stone. At normal pressure, the stone will only erode at a known set rate. Now increase the water pressure, but not the flow amount, and you get something akin to a smaller water jet allowing more pressure to erode the stone faster, especially since this particular water jet will find the weakest part of the stone and concentrate on that point. Remember, in today's vehicles, the battery is used to start the vehicle and then allow itself to be recharged by the alternator; when the engine is running, vehicles now are designed for the alternator to power almost all the electronics while also recharging the battery who's job while running is only to be recharged and supply any needed amperage the alternator can't provide due to momentary excess draw. So much more I could go into, but I'm not. I'll just ask this: What's the point for a few extra tenths of a volt that can/will can major issues while providing no extra amperage, amperage being the " fuel" for electronics? There is no good reason to do this and will only work on a handful of vehicles while causing thousands of dollars of damage to other vehicles. Just add another battery making sure the second battery has the same CCA rating as the primary and is of the same type(Lead acid, AGM, Lithium, and so on) or use a cheaper battery isolator(old Ford or lawnmover starter solenoid work) to run any size and type secondary battery. Just don't do this. This cheap "mod" can and will cost you ALOT more money in the long run. Look into a "Big 3" electrical upgrade and possibly adding a secondary battery.
The .5-.7v increase is for the guys running lithium packs. Those require a slightly higher voltage to maintain a charge than AGM or conventional 12v lead acid batteries. The video does not show how to alter any pcm controlled alternators but I appreciate the detailed right up. You have some great points but adding more battery bank or a big 3 upgrade will not help with it’s the desired outcome from this “cheap mod”. I do agree that a big 3 and larger battery bank are the first place to start when building any high demand electrical system and followed with a strong charging system. outside of a competition audio system I would not consider messing with the voltage set point.
@sub-humansounds5645 Now that I know this is for a lithium bank, it makes more sense as to why you'd want a slight increase in voltage. There are DIY kits for voltage multiplication you can use to slightly increase the voltage to a lithium bank from the alternator if you use a battery isolator to separate the primary battery from the lithium bank. Doing so won't place any extra strain on the alternator, primary battery, or other vehicle electronics. Just an idea. I've been building systems and competing for more years than I've been a mechanic(started competing at 17yo, I'm 51yo now) so I understand the need to do certain things for a more steady and readily available power supply. Especially when on a limited budget. Also, if you have an alternator or starter shop or maybe even some electrical motor shops nearby, most such shops can rewind your alternator to increase amperage output quite a bit while only slightly increasing voltage if at all...and at a fraction of the cost of a high output alternator. Another something you might want to look into. I've had a local shop do this for me several times and have been more than satisfied with the results. Good luck!!
@@knowplay3258 I build my own alternators now. If you have a chance to look into them, I recommend checking out the hairpin stator design that denso makes. Those stators can be changed to produce some impressive amperage and work far more efficiently than the alternators from our time of competing. I’m close to 40 and remember having to struggle to keep enough amperage from the older slot wound stators to supply my systems. The hairpin designs are amazing with what would be like 2 alternators working in parallel in one case. I think Mitsubishi has released a newer design with even more promise now.
Electronics only draw what they need to operate. So my amp will max out the digital clamp meter at 1000A draw (when wired to .5 ohm),so my factory 70a alternator should be sufficient? 😂 Joking Mr Sub Human, not intended towards you.
Awesome explanation and walkthrough 👍🏻
Very good video explaining the process. I have a 320 4-pin that Iraggi built for my 97 Dodge, I was a little lost at first but got it down now, I'm running 18ah Lishen cells around 16v cold 15.5 hot. I think my Mechman 240 charges better though. Scot
Also running 240 cmax in a 98 Dodge Ram w an 320 amp alt
Does it effect the amprage any
This video really helps
Awesome thanks bud
Nice upgrade
Buy diodes and resistors. Very important. My js alt on my 05 f250 wouldn’t go past 14.9 no matter how many diodes I added(I went from 14.7 to 14.9) until I added resistors on the “other” wire opposite of the sense wire.
Nice video, Very detailed. If you can please help. I have a 2014 Camry 2.5 L. Can this process work on the stock alternator? And if so what wire. Thank you.
Now what do you do with the cars that are computer controlled and drop to 13.6 unless the computer adjusts because it sees that it needs the voltage? I have a 2012 Subaru Outback H4 I seen an article saying something about grounding out a particular wire in the computer harness???? Any input would be appreciated. I have a 360 amp autotech alt
Will fit on a 2008 jetta 140 amp alternator?
Would it work on a 2013 duramax?
Can this work on a 2 pin denso toyota corolla alternator?
I recently upgraded my alternator to a 370 amp alt for my car audio but my Battery saving Kees popping up. I upgraded my front battery and did a big 4. I have a 14 Chevy impala
What voltage are you charging at?
Will this work in a 2c diesel engine
What if your alternator just stops charging at 16 when it was just charging np. Only charges at 14..6-14.9 Replaced regulator and diodes
Did you change the regulator
Where can I purchase one of these?
how much valu of riseter
What do the green and white wire do and why do you not need to use them?
I found a pin out that listed them as the ECU wire and a pulse wire. I have never seen them used though
@@sub-humansounds5645 great, that you for the reply. I'm planning on doing this to a 2018 Mitsubishi Mirage. It also has a 4 pin plug, so I'm sure the process is relatively similar. Can you explain further why the resistor is needed on the lamp wire when doing this modification? Why does it not come that way form the factory? Sorry, just trying to learn as much as I can before I attempt this myself and your video was one of the better ones I could find on TH-cam.
So I have a 99 suburban with just one brown wire coming off plug any way to boost this style alternator?
Yes. If you pull the plug out the alternator should have the the rest of the terminals. If so, just get a 4 pin harness and replace the factory harness. That will allow you to use the same factory wire that is going to pin 2 and you can add the connection for pin 4
I have one wire coming off plug on a 2020 Ford Ranger XL.
Doesn't work on my alternator. Need some advice
Great video, I noticed this is on 5.7L Vortec model can this be applied on 2003 Burban 5.3L/ 5100 Vortec LS based engine with factory AD244 alt to increase the 14.7 voltage with no load and internal regulator would like to increase voltage for system and would be nice to have sat a controller/ knob to increase when needed and are there mods to increase amp output of OEM units or no and what about eBay hairpin units 300amp clams on a budget don’t have $500 plus dollars to drop on alt, I have two ENERSYS POWERSAFE SBS-190F BATTERY 12v 190AH
As long as it’s using the “4 pin” style harness this will help. This is mainly to help with the charging voltage for lithium cells though. Other battery types such as AGM are not designed to handle the excess voltage. With that said I ran mine at 15.3v unloaded for over a year with no problems on 600ah of AGM. This was 120 miles a day in my daily driver. I found this link online to help with the voltage range for AGM banks. Sorry for the late response I have been very inactive on TH-cam.
support.rollsbattery.com/en/support/solutions/articles/4345-battery-charging-agm
Will that burn the battery??? Isn't it considered overcharging. I would love to rig up an alternator on a old 76 impala with 305 engine
The increased voltage is more for race cars and lithium battery banks in car audio. It is not good for standard 12v systems.
Ever since i did this i get more light dim and what seems like slower charging/ more voltage drop. Do i need more bank? Im on a 320 amp alt and 40ah lto, using like 6100 watts
I think more bank should help that. I dont really have much experience with lithium banks(I’m old).
Thats a really small battery...Why dont you use a decent 100ah battery.
Won't the alternator stop working if you took the two cables off ?
If the regulator is not a self exciting unit, removing the plug will stop the alternator from charging
If you do say three do u have then going same direction towards alt
Yes
With dual alt woul I need to do 1 dipde per alt?
That’s how I always wire them up
Is that 1watt or .25 watt resistor or does it matter thank you
I use 1/2 watt
Oops I didn't use a resistor on the lamp wire, going on 5 months @15.5 to 16 volts, no problems yet but should I be worried??
Is it using the factory wiring? Or are you directly switched to it?
@@sub-humansounds5645 I switched the harness with the one that came with the 370a Js brand alt
@@keithbutler7896 is the factory wire still connected to the new harness?
@@sub-humansounds5645 yes and still no problem
Theres many ways one easy way if u get another battery series it to increase voltage ⚡ other take out the alternator voltage ⚡ regulator n rectifier n use a rheostat potential meter adjustable to increase n decrease digital is better to see how much before engine stalls energy
🔴 I have two of these #OneWireAlternators. One is factory #acdelco 160amp the other is a identically made #powermaster 250amp. Both are grounded to the engine right now via a #dualmountingbracket but each one power wire goes to it's own battery. Basically two charging systems. My question is can I run both #OneWire alternators in parallel by just jumping the one wire over to the other alternator and then splice the factory sense wire and jump it over as well so that the Pcm only sees Basically one high powered alternator❓️Any info would be greatly appreciated. Btw, I left out that right now I'm controling the voltage output on the 250amp with a #PulseWaveModulator that operates at 128hz just like the factory one. I can turn it as low as 11.0 up to 15.4 volts output, but I don't have anything that let's me know that it's completely charged so I can turn it down. The factory alternator does this on it's on via the PCM and I'd like it all to work like that to relieve the guess work.
I do t do anything with the externally regulated alternators normally. You should be able to buy an adjustable external regulator and have it control both alternators. I think brand x makes on to control multiple alternators at one time
Can I use the tci in5400 diodes 3 amp thank you
Yes that will work.
I kno I can use this on a factory alt, but which wire do I use?? 2005 Tahoe...2009 Impala
In 2005 GM the alternator was changed over to a 2 pin. This will only work on the 4 wire alternator that is internally regulated
I have a 2006 chrysler 300,the alt has 2 pin harness will this work,or what do I need for my setup
I'm doing the same thing...
Hi there.what resistor u used?
BOJACK 470 Ohm Resistors 1/2 W ±5% Carbon Film Single Resistor (Pack of 200 pcs) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRRX3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WWNKYZX7ES9QZMTDZ693
I apologize for the late reply.
Hi, boss do you have the link for tje resister?
BOJACK 470 Ohm Resistors 1/2 W ±5% Carbon Film Single Resistor (Pack of 200 pcs) www.amazon.com/dp/B07QYRRX3L/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_WWNKYZX7ES9QZMTDZ693
What year gm and who makes your alternator..
This was for a 2004 Tahoe but I make my own. This voltage mod will work on almost any alternator with a sense terminal
Wat kind diode are u using ?
Will it work for a 2006 Toyota Corolla?
Is it any way to lower the charging voltage?
What make/model is it on?
@@sub-humansounds5645 Chevy trailblazer 4.2L
How do you install it?
If your alternator has a “S” terminal. Wire the diode inline with that terminal. The silver band on the diode goes to the alternator
I have three diodes and a reducer and I still cant get mine past 15.0 what am I doing wrong?
Did you see any change when you added each diode?
@@sub-humansounds5645 without diodes it charges 14.8 after that it don't matter if I add 1 or 4 diodes it only goes to 15v I replaced the regulator on the alt and the pig tail. It's a Apex 350a
@@chrismills2546 what car is it on?
@@sub-humansounds5645 1993 caprice
Cold start itll barely touch 15.2 once it warms up it won't brake 15. I've tried different size diodes as well with the same results. Everything I do I'm getting these same results. I've drained the battery to 14.8 and tried also charged to 16 and tried all it dose is slowly go down to 15v everytime.
Can i use 6amp diode ?
Yeah that will work too
Okay thanks ,
can u send me a diagram or picture please
Can me do it an Honda odyssey’s alternator
I’m not sure. What year is it?
2009 Honda odyssey’s touring
@@craigbravo472 if you see a terminal labeled “S” that will work on that wire
Are u in dallas
I’m in Kentucky
Hi there.what is diode number?
IN5404 is the part number I use. Chanzon (Pack of 50 Pieces) 1N5404 Rectifier Diode 3A 400V DO-201AD (DO-27) Axial 5404 IN5404 3 Amp 400 Volt Electronic Silicon Diodes www.amazon.com/dp/B079KC17FZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_GCBHDHA3ASCHFN8XRN8M
Will it work on a 3 pin ?
What make and model car is this on?
@@sub-humansounds5645 2010 ford taurus limited
@@marcomartinez9181 if I’m looking at it correctly the middle wire is the “S” terminal. The diodes will be installed on that terminal
Hi does it matter exactly what diode i use?
As long as it can handle the current that is going through the regulator it should not matter
As a mechanic, all i can say is that there is so much WRONG with doing this and the part failures/severe issues this can/will cause is astounding!! Let me list a couple of potential issues and pose some relevant questions to you:
If overcharging via voltage to an AGM or lead acid battery, how do you plan on dealing with the excess gas being vented? Thay gas is explosive, btw.
Since this will only work on certain GM/Ford systems, what are you going to tell a Chrysler product owner that tries this and INSTANTLY fries his/her PCM, other ECMs, and potentially quite a bit of the under dash electrical system? European, Asian, and Chrysler products have the voltage regulation circuit built into the Engine PCM.
How are you going to deal with the excessive heat, resistance, and internal stator wear of the alternator? An alternator can only produce amperage equal to it's build even if you increase the voltage output. Since voltage x amps = wattage and wattage can be equated to heat, how are you going to deal with the excess heat?
If you equate DC electricity to water, I'll use this analogy to make a point: Voltage = water pressure, amperage = water flow volume. Most automobile electronics are made to operate under a set, but small, spectrum of voltage...that being 11.5v to 14.5v in the real world. Since you are increasing the voltage/pressure applied to those electronics, but not the amperage(electronics only "draw or consume" the amperage needed to function), you are now increasing the electrical pressure thus lowering the longevity of said electronics. Think of an electrical part as a stone and voltage as a water pressure jet hitting that stone. At normal pressure, the stone will only erode at a known set rate. Now increase the water pressure, but not the flow amount, and you get something akin to a smaller water jet allowing more pressure to erode the stone faster, especially since this particular water jet will find the weakest part of the stone and concentrate on that point.
Remember, in today's vehicles, the battery is used to start the vehicle and then allow itself to be recharged by the alternator; when the engine is running, vehicles now are designed for the alternator to power almost all the electronics while also recharging the battery who's job while running is only to be recharged and supply any needed amperage the alternator can't provide due to momentary excess draw.
So much more I could go into, but I'm not. I'll just ask this: What's the point for a few extra tenths of a volt that can/will can major issues while providing no extra amperage, amperage being the " fuel" for electronics? There is no good reason to do this and will only work on a handful of vehicles while causing thousands of dollars of damage to other vehicles.
Just add another battery making sure the second battery has the same CCA rating as the primary and is of the same type(Lead acid, AGM, Lithium, and so on) or use a cheaper battery isolator(old Ford or lawnmover starter solenoid work) to run any size and type secondary battery.
Just don't do this. This cheap "mod" can and will cost you ALOT more money in the long run.
Look into a "Big 3" electrical upgrade and possibly adding a secondary battery.
The .5-.7v increase is for the guys running lithium packs. Those require a slightly higher voltage to maintain a charge than AGM or conventional 12v lead acid batteries. The video does not show how to alter any pcm controlled alternators but I appreciate the detailed right up. You have some great points but adding more battery bank or a big 3 upgrade will not help with it’s the desired outcome from this “cheap mod”.
I do agree that a big 3 and larger battery bank are the first place to start when building any high demand electrical system and followed with a strong charging system. outside of a competition audio system I would not consider messing with the voltage set point.
@sub-humansounds5645 Now that I know this is for a lithium bank, it makes more sense as to why you'd want a slight increase in voltage. There are DIY kits for voltage multiplication you can use to slightly increase the voltage to a lithium bank from the alternator if you use a battery isolator to separate the primary battery from the lithium bank. Doing so won't place any extra strain on the alternator, primary battery, or other vehicle electronics. Just an idea. I've been building systems and competing for more years than I've been a mechanic(started competing at 17yo, I'm 51yo now) so I understand the need to do certain things for a more steady and readily available power supply. Especially when on a limited budget. Also, if you have an alternator or starter shop or maybe even some electrical motor shops nearby, most such shops can rewind your alternator to increase amperage output quite a bit while only slightly increasing voltage if at all...and at a fraction of the cost of a high output alternator. Another something you might want to look into. I've had a local shop do this for me several times and have been more than satisfied with the results. Good luck!!
@@knowplay3258 I build my own alternators now. If you have a chance to look into them, I recommend checking out the hairpin stator design that denso makes. Those stators can be changed to produce some impressive amperage and work far more efficiently than the alternators from our time of competing. I’m close to 40 and remember having to struggle to keep enough amperage from the older slot wound stators to supply my systems.
The hairpin designs are amazing with what would be like 2 alternators working in parallel in one case. I think Mitsubishi has released a newer design with even more promise now.
Electronics only draw what they need to operate. So my amp will max out the digital clamp meter at 1000A draw (when wired to .5 ohm),so my factory 70a alternator should be sufficient? 😂
Joking Mr Sub Human, not intended towards you.
Does the same thing work for a tiida alternator??
I am not familiar with those alternators
@@sub-humansounds5645 ok it's the Nissan Nissan tiida alternator it got 3 wires
@@ogunkiyode5848 look up the wiring diagram. The diode will connect to the s terminal
@@sub-humansounds5645 thanks alot
@@ogunkiyode5848 no problem. I think it’s the middle wire