The makeshift 2 gang cover plate is great. Much cleaner than I have done it in the past. That’s all I would ever use but my spouse has higher standards than that. So I spend the money for a proper plate. :)
@@cstreet0824 The other switch is installed exactly the same as the one shown in the video. The only difference is the wire colors may be different in the other box depending on how the existing 3 way switch is wired. The existing three way switch has three screws, 1 line/load and 2 travelers. The line/load wire is connected to a screw on the switch that is one color and the other two screws, both a different color, are the travelers. For reason subject to how the electrician wired the original switch, wire colors connected to the switch is unimportant, just focus on the color of screws the wires are connected on the existing switch and label accordingly. It won't be necessary to rewire anything already connected to wire nuts inside the box other than connecting the neutral wire from the Kasa 210 to the existing neutral wire in the box, and of course the ground on the Kasa must be connected to the ground in the box.
Technically you only need to replace the 3 way switch that has the neutral in the electrical box. You can leave the other switch as a dumb switch. That is only because this does not have the dimmer it is the 210 kit. The regular, non-dimming, 3 way (HS210) will work with mechanical switches. The dimming 3 way (KS230) will not work with mechanical switches as the second switch. You must replace both switches.
If one of my three way junction box only has one white wire, which is for the travel, am I able to still install the smart Wi-Fi switch without a white neutral wire? In other words, the white wire from the smart Wi-Fi switch could be tucked in, and not connected?
@@jrp007 This is from the TP Link website, I know it is a lot of information but I hope it is helpful to show you what they say about white wires: "White wires are usually neutral wires, but they may appear in a three-way configuration wrapped with black tape. If this is the case, this wire is likely one of your two traveler wires. With this wiring situation, you are also unlikely to have a bundle of neutral wires." "While you can't rely on wire color to indicate line, load, common or traveler, you can use several clues including wire color to help you identify the neutral wires in your junction box. When looking for neutral wires in your junction box, look for two or more white wires connected together with a wire nut. You may need to move wires around in the junction box to find the bundle as it is often in the very back behind any other wire bundles. With rare exceptions, you shouldn't see neutral wires connected to the old wall switch you are replacing. If you find a white wire connected to your wall switch, look to see if it is wrapped with black electrical tape. If so, this is not a neutral wire but rather a repurposed white wire. If a white wire is connected to your wall switch, not wrapped with black electrical tape and can be traced to join the bundle of white wires, your old wall switch is connected to neutral and likely has more sophisticated features like a timer or remote control." "What if my switch doesn't provide a neutral wire? Because standard wall switches don't need a neutral wire to function and there are multiple ways to properly wire a three-way switch during construction, you may not find a neutral wire in one or both locations. If only one of the two junction boxes have a neutral wire bundle, you may still be able to use HS210 by following the instructions below. If neither of your switches have a neutral wire bundle, you will be unable to use HS210. An electrician may be able to assist, but running new wiring can be expensive." -www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/2009/#What%20do%20all%20the%20different%20wires%20do%20on%20a%203-way%20switch?
Thank you for the video. Does the status light on the HS210 also get controlled by the other dummy 3-way switch in the circuit? If you replace both 3-way dummy switches with HS210 units, do the status lights on both show the correct status of the light?
This seems like a stupid question but in my house 1 outlet has the exact same wiring that you have. The outer switch doesn't have the white wire for transfer but 2 black ones. Question 1. Do I treat the second black wire just like the white wire in your video? Question 2. Do both switches have to be 3 way switches?
What if I have this same setup with black red white and copper, but it doesn't have another switch that controls the same light(series of 5 spotlights) do i need single pole or 3 way?
Any idea why the it flickers the light when I turn on the light using the smart switch and then turn it off with my dumb switch? Please help, thank you.
Can I know the size of the plate you have? My current 2 poles power switch is using the old-style buttons like yours, and the plate is around 4"x4". I wonder if it can fit 2 smart switch boxes in it
Hey, we got the cover at lowe's. They are called white 2-Gang 1-Toggle/1-Duplex Wall Plate. Is that what you mean by plate? You should be able to fit two but I would have to see it to know for sure
The makeshift 2 gang cover plate is great. Much cleaner than I have done it in the past.
That’s all I would ever use but my spouse has higher standards than that. So I spend the money for a proper plate. :)
Wow thanks. I didn’t realize the white wire on the original switch was a traveler and not the neutral. I was getting ready to toss the Kaza switch
what happened to the other switch included in the box?
we used it on the other switch that went to that light. The HS210 is for a three way light switch where one light is controlled by 2 switches.
You should have shown that install that's where I'm having the problem.
@@cstreet0824 The other switch is installed exactly the same as the one shown in the video. The only difference is the wire colors may be different in the other box depending on how the existing 3 way switch is wired. The existing three way switch has three screws, 1 line/load and 2 travelers. The line/load wire is connected to a screw on the switch that is one color and the other two screws, both a different color, are the travelers. For reason subject to how the electrician wired the original switch, wire colors connected to the switch is unimportant, just focus on the color of screws the wires are connected on the existing switch and label accordingly. It won't be necessary to rewire anything already connected to wire nuts inside the box other than connecting the neutral wire from the Kasa 210 to the existing neutral wire in the box, and of course the ground on the Kasa must be connected to the ground in the box.
Technically you only need to replace the 3 way switch that has the neutral in the electrical box. You can leave the other switch as a dumb switch. That is only because this does not have the dimmer it is the 210 kit.
The regular, non-dimming, 3 way (HS210) will work with mechanical switches. The dimming 3 way (KS230) will not work with mechanical switches as the second switch. You must replace both switches.
Thanks for the helpful video
Thanks so much for your comment!
Another hit. Love your smart home videos
Thanks so much for your comment!
I also really enjoy learning about excel on your channel.
If one of my three way junction box only has one white wire, which is for the travel, am I able to still install the smart Wi-Fi switch without a white neutral wire? In other words, the white wire from the smart Wi-Fi switch could be tucked in, and not connected?
Thought my white travel wire was a neutral wire haha this video clears up a lot
Yes, it can be confusing! Ours was painted white!
I do not see the white. Wire tucked in all I see is the traveler wire taped in black
@@jrp007 This is from the TP Link website, I know it is a lot of information but I hope it is helpful to show you what they say about white wires:
"White wires are usually neutral wires, but they may appear in a three-way configuration wrapped with black tape. If this is the case, this wire is likely one of your two traveler wires. With this wiring situation, you are also unlikely to have a bundle of neutral wires."
"While you can't rely on wire color to indicate line, load, common or traveler, you can use several clues including wire color to help you identify the neutral wires in your junction box. When looking for neutral wires in your junction box, look for two or more white wires connected together with a wire nut. You may need to move wires around in the junction box to find the bundle as it is often in the very back behind any other wire bundles.
With rare exceptions, you shouldn't see neutral wires connected to the old wall switch you are replacing. If you find a white wire connected to your wall switch, look to see if it is wrapped with black electrical tape. If so, this is not a neutral wire but rather a repurposed white wire. If a white wire is connected to your wall switch, not wrapped with black electrical tape and can be traced to join the bundle of white wires, your old wall switch is connected to neutral and likely has more sophisticated features like a timer or remote control."
"What if my switch doesn't provide a neutral wire?
Because standard wall switches don't need a neutral wire to function and there are multiple ways to properly wire a three-way switch during construction, you may not find a neutral wire in one or both locations.
If only one of the two junction boxes have a neutral wire bundle, you may still be able to use HS210 by following the instructions below.
If neither of your switches have a neutral wire bundle, you will be unable to use HS210. An electrician may be able to assist, but running new wiring can be expensive."
-www.tp-link.com/us/support/faq/2009/#What%20do%20all%20the%20different%20wires%20do%20on%20a%203-way%20switch?
Thank you so very much 🙏
God bless
Steve, thanks so very much for your comment. Best of luck with your next DIY project and hopefully you will subscribe to Big Al Repairs.
Thanks for the video! Got mine to work!
That is great news! Thanks for the nice comment!
Thanks!
Thanks so much for your comment!
Very informative. Thank you
Thanks so much for your comment!
Great tips
Thanks so much for your comment!
Fantastic video!
where did you get those plates at the end ?
Thank you for the video.
Does the status light on the HS210 also get controlled by the other dummy 3-way switch in the circuit? If you replace both 3-way dummy switches with HS210 units, do the status lights on both show the correct status of the light?
This seems like a stupid question but in my house 1 outlet has the exact same wiring that you have. The outer switch doesn't have the white wire for transfer but 2 black ones.
Question 1. Do I treat the second black wire just like the white wire in your video?
Question 2. Do both switches have to be 3 way switches?
i want to do this with a dual switch but they both control different things , can I still hook it up ?
hello , how many light bulbs can it handle, cause i ve got a long hall way ( 20 lights ) and a switch on both ends
If old switch works new one will too
What if I have this same setup with black red white and copper, but it doesn't have another switch that controls the same light(series of 5 spotlights) do i need single pole or 3 way?
Does the black and red come from the same cable
Thank you very much
Thanks for the nice comment! Hope the video helped!
I need to try this
Thanks so much for your comment!
Do I need to install both kasa smart switches to work properly? Or can I use 1 smart switch and keep using my old dummy switch?
Thank you!
We only used one at first and didn't have a problem, then we eventually replaced it because we wanted more smart switches.
where do you get the face plate for the adjoining regular switch and what type is it?
We got it at lowe's. They are called...White 2-Gang 1-Toggle/1-Duplex Wall Plate
Amazon
yes, you can also get them here on amazon: amzn.to/3FWPq59
Any idea why the it flickers the light when I turn on the light using the smart switch and then turn it off with my dumb switch? Please help, thank you.
Mine has 2 red, one black and one white. Any suggestions?
i could not deattach the wall plate from the switch, it prevented me from screwing the switch to the wall. How did you resolve this problem?
You guys have great TP Link content.
Thanks for the comment!
Can I know the size of the plate you have?
My current 2 poles power switch is using the old-style buttons like yours, and the plate is around 4"x4".
I wonder if it can fit 2 smart switch boxes in it
Hey, we got the cover at lowe's. They are called white 2-Gang 1-Toggle/1-Duplex Wall Plate. Is that what you mean by plate? You should be able to fit two but I would have to see it to know for sure
Two will fit. You have to buy new plate.
Spoiler alert! She shows you how to WIRE the switch, not how to LINK the switch.
ya our video is "how to install"
Wait! Is it over? I fell asleep to her slooooooooow voice.
👍
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Very helpful video. Thank you.
Syam. Thanks so much for your comment and hopefully you subscribe to Big Al repairs.