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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 1 ม.ค. 2014
- Do you occasionally get code P0420 - catalytic converter low efficiency? This $3 electrical circuit may fix the problem permanently by electrically smoothing out the o2 sensor output. Don't spend $10 on fuel additives (tried it), or $100 on new o2 sensors (tried it), or $200-400 on a new non-OEM catalytic converter which may fail again (seen lots of posts by Honda owners who say they don't last).
You'll see how to test both o2 sensors on a bench with a propane torch - if either has failed you should replace it and see if that fixes the problem. I replaced mine before I knew how to test it and it solved the problem for a short while but it came back. If you have a graphing ODB scanner I show how to graph the o2 sensors to see if the catalytic converter is working. You can try simpler ODB readers such as ScanGuage but the data is supposed to change from 0V-1V every second so you really need a graphing tool (Harbor Freight 98614 / 60693 is $120 but often $80). I also tried to use a multimeter hooked into the o2 sensor with wires but I found that also too hard to really see what's happening.
Once you verify from the o2 sensors that the catalytic converter isn't functioning efficiently, I show you how to modify the downstream sensor #2 mounted on or after the catalytic converter with a simple Resistor Capacitor (RC) low-pass filter to smooth out the signal by removing "high frequency" (faster than 5 seconds) changes in the o2 levels .
There is an alternative using spark plug defouler/unfouler to pull the o2 sensor back from the exhaust stream, but it's unclear if this will work or for how long. The computer P0420 is strictly determined by whether the downstream sensor #2 is crossing the .5V threshold a lot less than sensor #1, so an electrical solution addresses this directly. This method may not work if your o2 sensor is too far gone, in which case you can buy a 555 timer based o2 simulator which generates a signal independent of the o2 sensor output, but that costs $20-40 and you have to mail order it. This $3 solution is easy if you're good with a soldering iron and worth a try.
Here's a link to one of the internet posts on how to build the RC low-pass filter: www.wazees.com/media/4324/02-m...
Here's a video about o2 sensors and P0420 but I tried his diagnostics and they were difficult. He uses a basic OBD scanner and it's just not quick enough. It encouraged me to buy the graphing scanner and I'm glad I did so I could verify my fix works, although you don't have to. He also tried diagnosing it with the temperatures, which I also did, but my results were inconclusive: • P0420 How To Diagnose ...
Here's an excellent video on how to bench test an o2 sensor. If yours is bad I think you want to replace it, especially if it's the upstream sensor since that's going to affect how rich/lean your engine is and may cause damage to a catalytic converter. If it's the downstream sensor that's broken then my fix may work on it - it depends on how it's broken. o2 sensors cost $100, and this fix is a lot cheaper than replacing the sensor, so I'd try this before replacing the downstream sensor. • O2 Bench test
Finally here's an excellent video on how to use the spark plug defouler/nonfouler. My biggest gripe is that I couldn't find any reports on the internet to support that this actually works most of the time or that it lasts. Some of you who are more comfortable with a drill vs soldering iron might want to go this route. You can find the parts at Autozone for $10. I suppose if you mail order them you can maybe do it for $5. Half my motivation for doing this DIY is because mail ordering parts (spark plug defouter or 555-based o2 simulator) is inconvenient. • Clear check engine lig... - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Easy fix for the soldering issue, use a butane soldering iron and dip it in solder flux before you solder. It uses a lot less heat and the solder bonds right away. An old school soldering trick I learned from my Korean War veteran electrician father.
Actually, years ago I tried fixing a damaged wire on an oxygen sensor and came upon the same problem. The wires appeared to be some type of stainless steel and the solder would not adhere to them. I had to crimp connect the wires.
@@paulstandaert2042 Aluminum wire doesn't like solder. Also anytime you solder you need to use Flux.
What was the next size cap that you used, you said it fast, I hit the rewind button, but no luck. Thanks, it works great, still can't dismiss the light. 97 GMC k 5.0. thanks
Thanks forr the tip!
Just did this to my 2002 Cavalier. Wish I would have looked it up 6 months ago. Car runs like it should now. Thanks for the info!!
Worked like a charm. Cost me 3$ at a specialty electronics store. Thanks !!!
People are frequently asking "Does this work on a ?" or "My color wires are different - which ones do I use?". I don't have the ability or time to answer this, nor does anyone else. What I recommend is you google your car's oxygen sensor and see if you can find a wiring diagram or at least find out how many wires. This fix probably only works for a "narrow band" sensor which can have 1-4 wires. There's a type called "wide band" which has 5 or 6 wires and they apparently use current. This fix will not work because it only regulates voltage and not current. You need to find the two wires that carry the actual o2 sensor and ground (and not the heater or any other signals). Failing that, it's pretty easy to figure it out with a voltmeter. Either bench test it as shown, or unplug the sensor and test the pins with the car running (which I don't recommend for many reasons but it can be done). You want to find the two wires that have a voltage fluctuating between 0-1V with a cycle time of no less than 1 second and ideally much slower. Here's what I know about the number of wires and what they do: 1 wire (just voltage and use chassis ground), 2 (voltage & gnd), 3 (voltage, gnd, heat), or 4 (voltage & gnd, heat & gnd) wires. Good luck, and you do get it to work, please post the year/make/model and wire colors you used.
I followed the directions exactly and it worked for me. 2002 Hyundai XG350, 65k miles with persistent P0430. 1000 miles later and no codes or check engine light. TX State inspection passed. You gotta do your own research on your specific car to determine which O2 sensor needs modifying, and which wires are what.
Awesome how to video. Worked like a champ on my girlfriends Mazda 626. The Sauder was definitely a pain but after clearing the codes and driving 20 miles all readiness monitors had cleared. Going for inspection tomorrow. Thanks!
You might need to drive some more before inspection. The computer records if you reset the code manually and there's some unclear set of circumstances that have to happen before the computer will say that the all clear is legitimate. In general, I'd say you need to drive 75 miles before doing an inspection, otherwise you risk the possibility of them sending you home to come back. If you didn't clear it and it cleared by itself then you're fine going in anytime.
Well my scanner has a built in emissions tester and says Its clear to pass. But in North Carolina only 6 of 8 readiness monitors have to be complete to pass inspection. Thank you for your input and thank you for this video. Gained me some time in replacing the 400 dollar cat on this car.
Hey is the hack still working good?
Thank you, this was very clear, no tacky heavy metal music, just the facts ! And a great steady camera-hand.
Cheers, Don
Thanks for the video, It is greatly appreciated!! Keep making content! I do a lot of industrial and automotive electrical work, and constantly deal with solder joints on wire splices that won't flow out correctly. I always try first with flux but if the normal routine fails try this..
Clean the wires by scraping with razor blade, you can also use a wire brush or scotchbrite. Scrap/brush towards the end of the wire, ensuring you get all surfaces especially if it is a braided wire.
Wats the volt on the capacitor 4.7uf what is the volt
The voltage from the O2 sensor is 0 to 1 volt, so anything over that will be fine. @@jbelectrical6833
Passed Emissions today on a 2001 Toyota Sienna with this strategy. Thanks a lot. I should share some details. When I soldered in the 4.7 uF capacitor and 1 megaohm resistor I got p0136 code (like a low voltage code on o2 sensor). Tore it all out and resoldered a breadboard instead (the o2 sensor connector is inside the cabin underneath the passenger seat as opposed to underneath the car). On the breadboard, I eventually used a 4.7 uF capacitor with a 470 kilo-ohm resistor instead. Although I didn't need to, using the breadboard allowed me to experiment with different capacitor and resistor pairs which you might need to do depending on your vehicle.
Im having same problem on 02 4cyl tacoma,was to lazy to try a potentiometer, will try the 470k.thanks
Thanks, this is really helpful info for me
Worked for me! Thanks for sharing this. My old civic is running great and I can't afford to replace the cat with an OEM one.
Thanks for the clear video. I am going to try this on my Fiesta ST MK6.5, since my Mongoose de-cat system occasionally triggers the MIL-light (low catalytic function). All sensors seem to be working, but for the sake of keeping this light out I will try your solution :-)
Worked perfectly for me 1M ohm and 4.7 cap. 2002 Tacoma 2.4L. Catalytic monitor is ready after about 20 miles and NO check engine light . Thank u so much
I have been suffering the p0420 on my mk3 Toyota mr2, tried to get the o2 sensor out and it was solid! to solder it in place was not practical so...solution: I chopped the plug and the socket off a scrap car and made an adaptor like section, just plug and play. I cleared the codes and have gone 50 miles so far (previously I would get 20 miles and mil light on), no mil light, no pending codes and my scanner says its all good. THANK YOU SO MUCH! I can get the bits and do the work but its clever guys like this that make it possible. thanks again.
Thanks for that helpful hint and I'm glad it worked for you. A number of people seem to have sensors that have seized. That's another good reason to solve it with this circuit rather than a spark plug extender.
This video needs to make a comeback
I've got a what I think is a denso in a '13 outback. I have a oil burner and I think it messed up my cat. By 125k miles I was getting the p0420 code. I was getting the code maybe every couple weeks. I went ahead and gutted the cat, because my mileage had dropped from 27 to near 25mpg over the last few months. I tested the O2 sensor like you did with a torch and I am pretty sure it is working. At any rate I did the resistor capacitor install like your video and now I am getting p0140 on the first drive out. I cleared it but it will probably return. I graphed my 02 sensor before the gut and it was sporadic jumping between .05v to .9v at 2000-2500 rpms.
This is the best tutorial ever saved me over thousands on my CATs for a bmw. THANK YOU SO MUCH. It worked like a charm.
EKK status update? Did the light stay off of did it come back on eventually
@@youtubeisbroken241 stayed off..
@@KKE1978 did you gut/remove the cat? Mine has collapsed and I dont have $400 to spend right now because we are still laid off because of Covid...
@@daddyosink4413 no i just did this mod and i have never gotten a check engine light. Just follow the mod and clear the check engine light. You will be set.
@@KKE1978 I have a PHYSICALLY failed cat.... like the "rock" has fallen apart and is obstructing exhaust flow making the engine run rough... I either have to remove/replace it, or gut it. As long as this mod will keep the light off and the computer happy I'm good. 😉
Toyota aygo 1.0 petrol 2008. 4.7uf capacitor and a 50kohm resistor and i got rid of all the bad codes. Took me a long time.to try what resistor was the right but found it and are very happy now.
just did this method with exact same type and ratings of resistor and capacitor on a Volvo xc90 v8 which uses a Yamaha engine, aisin/denso electronics (same as toyota.) It gave me code p0157, o2 circuit low voltage after 30 miles.
now I have two problems. awesome!
Replace the 02 sensors and take battery cables off battery ten touch them together and then reconnect to battery start car see what happens
Can't believe this actually worked on my '99 Suburban!! I could not remove the O2 sensor even with correct tools. Thanks so much for the well explained vid!!
what motor is in it
Correct tool = heat
Hey MITEEman you are an angel for helping so many AND sticking with it!! I have a 2005 Nissan Frontier 4.0. These are famous for P0420 & 430's. Have you heard from Frontier owners on your fix? Thanks ever so much!
I Performed this procedure on my downstream O2 sensor wires..closer to the connector rather than close to the sensor.Seems to be working just fine..I Used my Actron 9575 Scanner tool,to watch the sensors after the fuel system changes from open to closed loop.I have 2 new Os sensor's & I just installed new Injectors.running great, No Engine Light's.. I used a 1/2 watt (1) MegaOhm resistor,they didn't have the 1/4 watt..1-4.7 microfarad axial capacitor..Great Idea & It Works just fine to trick the (ECM) into thinking the 3way convertor is running at peak Performance.. Since even if the converter drop's to 95%,meaning if it loses 5% of it's performance It WILL throw the Code P0420 aswell as others.
Does this work with a secondary air injection pump. I know the o2 sensor reads the flow of air from the pump, that passes through the cat.
I did the "spark plug anti fouler" trick on my downstream o2. I still get a p0420. 1995 Subaru 2.2.
Unfortunately Radio Shack closed down 2 months ago where I live here in Alaska. Looks like Amazon it is. Thanks for the video!!
Thank you!!! I had tried the mod and per the Internet had the cap on the wrong side. Now it makes more sense.
Thanks MITEEman, I bought a used 2004 fx35 last year and it failed smog check for P0138 and P0158 which are the post CAT o2 sensor issues. I went ahead and changed them both and I found out that it made no difference. When I delved into it a bit more I realized that all 4 o2 sensors once in operating temperature just show a steady voltage, the post CAT sensors go to 1.275 volts and max out, and B1 S1 is at .3 V and B2 S1 is at .64 with .01 v oscillation. When I accessed the ECM to see what is going on, I found that someone had simply joined the wires between S1 and S2 on B1 (and not B2). For the life of me I cannot figure it out why would anyone do that and why would ecm accept this. BTW, the car runs smoothly and aside from the "service engine soon" light on there are no issues. I also verified all 4 o2 sensors they are fine, even the original sensors that I replaced were fine.
Anyone out there has any idea what is going on. I hate to revert it back to what I think it is supposed to be and find out now that the car is not running smoothly anymore. I have to point out that mileage is not that great 14-17 mpg. I unplugged B1 S1 and drove it and it still worked but not smoothly, it got slow to respond to acceleration.
For people with the grey white and black wires.
Grey is ground, takes the negative end of capacitor. Black is signal. Grey also takes the resistor, no resistor on black wire.
Will the resistor go before or after the capacitor on the gray wire? On the O2 sensor side or the ECM side? Thank you in advance. I installed the way it shows in the video and I’m getting a high voltage code. I’m assuming this will fix my problem.
Thanks SOOOO much for this video! I have a 2001 Tundra V6 with CA emissions. Got a P0420 fault code and tried several ways to repair it. At the end of the day, I did not want to spend $1000 on a new OEM catalytic converter. So I tried this and it work! I put on a code reader after 10 miles of intstalling the "filter" and it showed no codes! I went to get it tested after 9 months expired plates and it passed and I was finally able to get my plates renewed!
Steps I tried prior to this tip:
1. Replaced downstream O2 sensor
2. Used CataClean
3. Re-moved front cat (not rear) and soak in soapy water overnight. replaced cat with OEM gaskets.
4. Replaced upstream O2 sensor.
5. Finally installed this filter and it worked!
Ummm I’m telling...lol
hey, did u install the resistor mod for both banks? My 2003 Odyssey v6 is throwing slow response p0139 after installing it on bank 1 only. I wonder if the ecu compares it to the other bank..... I'm going to be trying out lower capacitor value to 1.5uf.... Im at 3.3uf and it's still showing slow response
@@masmagalingako I have 07honda civic hybrid California
Car did hack. P0420 code clear but after 40 miles I have p0139 now
Have anyone able to clear this code if so how and what resistor and capacitor is right value
@@fosso67 I got mine working by jus using 2 resistors, 180k and 1megOhm. No capacitors. Honda at least my 05 odyssey uses wideband o2 sensor for the upstream. So slowing down the response with the capacitor will only cause a Slow Response fault code.
What worked for me is a voltage divider network where the o2 signal voltage is dropped down by approximately 10%, such as 0.8 now reads 0.72 therefore reads a bit leaner.
My van now always clears all of the emmissions code.
@@arnoldg3076 Thanks for posting this. I've been looking for answers to my 2006 Tundra P0420 and lots of other forums and posters talk about how the newer "wide band" sensors are immune to this fix. Can you expand a little more on how the two resisters work on wide band? Also, how did you wire them? In series with megaohm first and 180k second, or vise-versa?
THANK YOU!!! Fixed my nephews 2000 4Runner in a parking lot during lunch. Smog passed and new tags delivered. No CEL for the last month...
Stace Williams what were the ratings on the cap and resistor you used?
I have an ‘01 taco I need to do this mod on
Thank you thank you this worked great for my 2005 Silverado the post o2 is at .5 on one bank and .6 on the other. But I had to put a spacer also I do not have converters someone had cut them off.
2008 BMW 328xi - I was seeing .750v to .850v on both rear o2's. After this mod, .450v to .650v. I used 1M 1/4 W resistor and a 4.7uf 50v capacitor. Worked perfectly! Bought the car running pretty roughly. Spark plugs were shot. 1 bad fuel injector. Replaced the coils and 2 front o2's for good measure. Runs rock solid but still had the rear O2 faults. This fixed it. The spark plug non-foulers did NOT fix it.
Thanks bud for making a comment I tried the non fouler and I thought it was me but I think it's the non foulers will try this on my 2011 BMW 328
You should rev it to 2000rpm to get quicker results after the solder. Great vid, I'll be doing this in a few days. Im useing 1 m ohm resistor, and 1 uf 50V capacitor
A flux pen really helped me get the solder to stick.
It worked perfect for my 01 Honda civic.
Thank you
Stan Smith which color is where you work in a honda civic 2003
Was looking forward forward to see t he markings on the capacitors to see what directions they were soldered in .
Positive lead on the data wires, negative lead to ground/earth.
Tried on 2000 jetta 2.0 with p0422 code(main catalyst below threshold bank 1). The p0422 code went away and created a p0140 code. However the spark plug defouler worked perfectly fine. Also look into angle spacers for o2 sensors for another fix.
TH-cam really does have an answer for any question. Thanks!!
2:16 Thanks for posting the two Dorman non-foulers together. I need the longer of the two and nowhere but HERE did i find the difference. Even the Dorman website was useless in including length detail.
Nicely done video, and you are correct, this will "fool" the computer...sort of. The computer will show this test as "incomplete" and it will stay that way. Eventually, and it can takes months, you will most likely get the light back on with codes P0144 and P0145 which are directly related the voltage sensing of the O2 sensor. In California, your car will not pass due to the incomplete, but your light will stay out for a while.
So do you need all monitors set in CA to pass? I'm a PA emissions inspector and we can have all but 1 monitor set and all but 2 set if it's from 95-00
@@Zachattackisrad up till 03 you can have 1 incomplete monitor. On 00 and below I believe it's 3/4 of monitors are required.
You are correct. That’s what happened in my case. Engine light remains off but cat monitor does not set. Great video though.
This was just great, fixed the P0420/P0430 codes on my Rav4 with two downstream sensors. Thank you very much! :-D
Did u do both censors or just on?
what capacitor and ohm
What year rav 4?
Hi MITEEman - great vid, very clear and simple to follow for luddites like me!
Quick question - does the voltage of the capacitor matter?
Hi smal question please dit you do that on the sensor before or after the cata. Bank 1 en bank 2 i have to modefide sensor 2 and sensor 2 correct ? So i have to fix the 2 sensors after the cat ? (Bmw got 2 converters )
I subscribed because of this video thank you I am going to try this on my 2011 BMW 328
Here’s how I finally got rid of my P0420:
I have a 2007 Suzuki Grand Vitara that was getting the P0420 code. I decided to first try using an O2 spacer since they have been working fine for the last five years on another car I have, a 2000 Nissan Xterra. It passes inspection in California every two years with no problems - all monitors stay ready and no codes or check engine light.
However, the spacer did not work on the Suzuki. I got a P0420 very quickly after two short drive cycles. I then tried a different spacer with a smaller hole but still got the P0420. Two more different spacers were tried (right angle spacer and 45 degree spacer) with no luck. I gave up on the spacers and switched to the low pass filter method described in this video. My first attempt was using a 1uf capacitor and a 1M ohm resistor. I got a code P2A01 for O2 sensor circuit performance. I then tried a 4.7uf capacitor and a 1M ohm resistor. Same code showed up - P2A01. This time I graphed the sensor and saw that it was never going below .22 volts. The Service Manual for the Suzuki says code P2A01 is issued when the O2 sensor “signal is more than 0.2V for more than 4 sec. even though vehicle is running with fuel cut mode below 4000 rpm.” This generally occurs when you are driving, for example, on a freeway and you take your foot off the gas to coast down the exit ramp. It can be simulated by idling the car and revving the engine four or five times and then letting go of the gas pedal. You should see the O2 sensor dip quickly to almost zero before climbing back up.
I then tried a 270K ohm resistor instead of the 1M ohm along with the 4.7uf capacitor, hoping it would expand the amplitude range of the O2 sensor so it would go below .2V. The resistor helped some, but the O2 sensor barely got below .2V, and it was for just an instant no matter what the driving condition was.
Next, I tried a 10uf capacitor and a 180K ohm resistor. This helped a lot and the sensor appeared to be working as it should as compared to the sensor on bank 2. I got no more fault codes or check engine light. However, the monitors would not go into ready mode no matter how long I drove the car. I tried one final time with a 10uf capacitor and a 100K resistor. Same result. After driving the car for over 300 miles, monitors were still not ready.
Went back to trying a spacer again after reading that some people stuffed some stainless steel wool into the spacer tip to reduce the flow of exhaust gas reaching the sensor. Went for a test drive with my scanner attached not expecting much, but all monitors went ready in just a few miles. Came back home, checked for codes and found none, not even any pending codes. Restarted the car and this time drove on the freeway to see if any codes would set. Once again, no check engine light, no codes. It’s now been about 1300 miles and still no codes and all monitors are ready. My inspection comes up in about a month and should pass easily here in California using the spacer.
The stainless steel wool and spacer was used with no resistor or capacitor.
I have same question - did you use resistor and capacitor + distancer, or distancer with steel wool solely
@@gile11ubica spacer and steel wool only. No resistor or capacitor
Where did you go for smog check? The place I went failed me because they seen my spacer.
did it end up setting a heater circuit code afterwards? not sure what vehicle that was on but some send a bias voltage down the signal wire to indirectly monitor the heater circuit until the o2 warms up and pulls the bias to ground...
Yup, basically fooling the computer by giving it the correct value. I did that on my trailblazer because of a low pressure sensor in the fuel tank indicated a leak. This was a major issue with all trailblazers. Mine didnt have any leak as per smoke test,no cracked filler neck. No bad charcoal canistor and no bad pressure switch in the tank. I added a capastor and a resistor to reduce the voltage to bring the value down to .5v ,no more light,no more code. I know many Trailblazers that had that issue.
About to try this out! Been running no cats for a while lol just tired of looking at that damn check engine light. Thanks for this tip man
Did it work
XLn't tutorial sir. I've used this for several vehicles (mostly Toyotas). Thank you!
I'm going to give this a shot as I had some of those capacitors lying around from a prior project. Just waiting on some resistors ...
I'm not going to jump in and replace the cat when my car is running slightly rich and also suffering from vibrations at a specific RPM. This seems to indicate that something else could be the cause.
@MITEEman Hey there...so I switched to an aftermarket downpipe on my 2018 F150 3.5 Ecoboost and I'm getting the 420/430 codes...would this be a viable solution to get rid of these codes?
470K ohm resistor and 1uF capacitor worked for me. 2008 Ford Taurus 3.5L V6
The upstream sensor 1 is as you describe - it's feedback to the engine for how to adjust the rich/lean. You don't want to modify that one. You are going to modify the downstream sensor 2 (installed on or after the catalytic converter) which tells the computer that the catalytic converter is evenly catalyzing the exhaust as demonstrated by a steady o2 range.
pretty good gas mileage... wish my outback got that
Cavalier Basketball team
What would happen if the upstream was modified ? I have a minor exhaust leak at the header. I did the trick and my gruñe economy has gone up and the engine light is off
I installed a wideband oxygen sensor for my primary that has a 0.1-5.1v range for my gauge and a 0.1-1.1v range for my ECU. Since I didn't want to have a 2nd bung for another primary oxygen sensor I just removed the stock one, and to avoid a CEL because I couldn't signal that the heater was working with the wideband, I just put 2 10ohm 1 watt resistors in line for the heater circuit. I used the stock oxygen sensor harness by cutting of the old sensor and using a male and female connector I ran signal from the wideband to the harness and to the ECU and then with the two heater wires I ran said resistors. No CEL accurate fueling and the ability to see what my AFRs are. This is for a 1997 Honda Prelude Base Model (Non-SH). I imagine this will work for someone with the heater CEL code and nothing else.
so cool to find this, 7 years later im about to try something similar on a 2012 chevy sonic,hehe. got some resistors and diodes around and im gonna give it a try.
I had a P-0420 steady in my 2004 Toyota Sienna mini-van for the past year. I tried the fix as posted in the video.l I purchased the parts from my local Radio Shack and wired them as shown in the video. It did smooth out the response of the Bank 2 downstream O2 sensor. It was evident by graphing the two downstream O2 sensors. The modified sensor was much slower to react than the unmodified downstream sensor. However, the van would not pass the O2 readiness check and soon the CEL illuminated with a code P-0156 "O2 Sensor Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 2". I cleared the code and it came back on the very next drive.
Thus, I soldiered the O2 sensor wires back to factory condition and installed the no-foulers as advertised in the video. The O2 sensor readiness passed in the first five minutes of driving. I have been driving the van for two weeks now with no check engine light BUT the catalyst readiness monitor is still INC after two weeks of driving. In Texas, you are allowed 1 INC readiness so, it passed this year's inspection without any problems. I don't know how long it will take for the catalyst readiness to turn to OK. Some people say it could take up to a month for this to turn to OK. I have no pending codes so I think it will be just a matter of time before the catalyst monitor changes from INC to OK.
This van has 330,000 miles. I suspect the catalytic converter is most likely dead but a new one is cost prohibitive when compared to the value of the automobile. No-foulers it is for now.
+Tim Plasek .... FYI, Catalytic converter test runs at highway speeds, normally between 55 - 60 mph (can vary my make, model and year). Must be fairly steady speed for several minutes, and oxygen sensor monitors must have already been run. If you normally drive faster than this (most do) the cat test will have a hard time running in a short time period. I'm a shop owner / operator and often take problem vehicles for drives and then in for the OBDII emissions test as I can get them through where regular driving they will fail.
Now that works perfect, i went from throwing the p0420 every couple miles to now not having any.., works on a 98 honda crv LX
Did you use the same 1Mohm and 4.7uf cap to your crv i have issues here?
How did you connect the resistor? I’m confused about if I need to cut the whole sensor wire in half or just make two little openings in the sleeve to connect each end of the resistor
The wires coming from most O2 sensors is stainless steel. This is usually difficult f not impossible with out using the correct solder, and flux in combination.
That is why crimp on connections are used with most universal replacement O2 sensors.
Tim
Thanks, I'm gonna try this on my 02 offroad lancer....
Works in Toyota Previa 2002. Here are 4 lambda sensor and you have to make hacking to two catalyst post sensor. OBD scanner show nice graphig now. Parts cost 2 euros
Great solution, my 02 Toyota sienna cat was replaced last year, did not fix the problem. 2 oxygen sensors also replaced, same thing, then they told me it was the "canister" or something like that, check engine light still on. Could not pass the inspection. a lot of money and time wasted. I almost gave up until i found this solution, i couldn't believe that with less than 3 Dollars i solved this problem. Thank you, Thank you, Thank you. (soldering was pretty easy too)
We Toyota owners face the trouble that the ECU is too sensitive. A good catalytic converter, and you can keep on with the code. Watching my live data it's obvious that the new cat fixed the car, but the car remains unconvinced.
DE Nichols I'm lucky I live in a non-emmission area. I replaced the catalytic converter because of performance issues. The car runs great. By it's readings I can tell the care is much better for the environment. So the part of me that wants the world clean is happy, and my car keeps thinking. The cat is broken.
A good catalytic converter gave me 50% more actual HP at the wheels so that'll save the environment, not having it run so poorly. Went from 59 to 91. Modern cars do work better with back pressure.
Buen trajajo saludos de Guatemala
The wires have a coating if you use a razor and scrape the wires the solder will stick really good
I have oil consumption issue on my 2006 Lexus GS300, recently just replace both downstream sensors. Less than 5,000 miles later it's throwing codes again relating to one downstream sensor, any advice? Cleaning replacing essentially a new sensor? Thank you.
I’m confused. Did you cut the whole wire and place the resistor between both cut ends or make 2 small splices, leaving the wire connected, and then connect each end of the resistor to the open spots?
I had code p0136 after doing this. I just took it apart again to double check. I don't have the code reader that shows signals or lines, so I'm going to rely it's correct. I had both oxygen sensors replaced last year. My catalytic converter looks in great shape. No odd discoloration, or smoke of that sort. I will check that the connector is all the way in. Will be keeping my fingers crossed and letting you know the results soon.
prntscr.com/56676x This is a bosch sensor. I google the wiring so this should work If you guys have any suggestions. Please let me know, thanks.
Sorry to say it didn't work. I went like 50 miles or so and p0136 came on.
Hi I face the same scenario. Hope to try the adapter and see.
4:45 I’m seeing where you put the resistor. Did you cut the sensor wire and then place the resistor in between where you cut the wire?
Hello, I try to buy a good scanner, is it a good idea to buy a bi-directional scanner? Thanks in advance.
I have a Ford 3.5 eco boost (non turbo) will the 4.7 microfarad work for this applicaton or do i need a different value?
The capacitor will store a small charge and as the waveform drops the capacitor will discharge helping to even out the waveform resulting in fewer and more consistent changes downstream.
That's right!
MITEEman, I really appreciate the time you took to create & share this video, and providing help to those of us with this error code on our vehicles... And on that note, I would like to ask/confirm with you the wiring setup on my 2009 Honda Pilot, as I plan to do this work to it. the color wiring I have does not match the ones on your video, I have 2 white, a black, & a grey wire. From what I've read the 2 white wires are the heater, black is positive signal and grey is negative. And the resistor (does not matter the direction) should splice between the black wire and the capacitor negative lead to contact the grey and the other capacitor lead should connect to the resistor opposite the end of the sensor. Is this correct?
+Evelyn Edwin There's a post in the comments from another viewer with a table of common wire colors but I always recommend doing a benchtest of the o2 sensor to both verify it functions and see exactly which wires measure the o2 content. This mod won't work if the o2 sensor is broken. If you have a brand name sensor, you can lookup the colors on the internet.
This worked on our 2005 Lancer - made the fix near the plug inside the car - no evidence outside.
Hello there nice work. I am having an issue with my 2002 dodge dakota 2002.
I replaced alot of electrical parts on my vehicle. It used to not run right. I replaced the catalytic converters today. I bought 2 up stream o2 sensor and 2 o2 down stream o2 senors.
However I still have a P0136 code even though I replaced the o2 sensor today. My wires are good. How do I trick the 02 sensor bank 1 sensor 2
Tenkyou
Some Toyota sensor connector under passenger seat work.some vehicles have metal bracket,covers connectors
I have used the patch and fixed the cat low efficiency issue, no more CEL of it; however, I still have the heating element resistance too high error; replaced a new O2 sensor but still got the same error about heating element; wires are ok. After the research it seems to be the heating time that taking too long to reach the temp and triggered this 2D13 CEL. Any idea here how to fix it? Can I try with different value resistor?
Does the resistor and capacitor get soldered together with the wire all together on the 1 side? or is the resistor closest to the O2 sensor, soldered in by itself?
The resistor lead nearest the o2 sensor gets soldered to the wire (I found it easier to crimp them.) The resistor lead nearest the connector gets soldered (or crimped) to the cap. and the wire.
I have on 200 car, the 2-nd O2 sensor damaged, and mix are very rich so high fuel consume..
problem is I cannot change it, is like soldered there - the exhaust system is one piece, with no joints
Can I replace the damaged sensor with something like this simulator to have a lower consume ?
Thank you in advance!
Did not fix my 2007 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L got a P2A01 code O2 Sensor Bank 1 Sensor 2 Hope to get a reply . Used the 4.7mf and the 1olm resistor put in correctly the O2 sensors is just a year old. Not sure if i need different Capacitor or Resister?
Do you have a link for the 555 timer bro??
Thanks!
I was getting the P0420 code. I did this on my 2003 Dodge Durango and I am now getting the P0138 code almost immediately. Signal voltage too high (over 0.9V). Where would it be getting higher voltage? A capacitor and a resistor should not raise the voltage right? I did not cut into the heater wires and made sure I insulated my connections.
Nice video man. Great job.
Hey there great video, on my 2004 mazda 6 it doesn't have a blue and a white like that. It has 2 white a grey and a black. Which wires should I do this to? Thanks in advance!
Hey, does capacitor and resistor need to be that close or can it be moved up further up the harness (plug), while keeping same cap and resistor orientation?
Kobe Kumar It doesn't matter where you do it. It's easy to make the mod on a workbench but just be sure you have access because on my Odyssey the space gets very tight as you get close to the harness plug. I have not had any problem with the heat of the catalytic converter destroying the components but it does make sense to keep them as far away as you can.
Hi is it possible do this with 3 wire O2 sensor ?? I have 2 wires for o2 heater and one for signal thx
I did this on a 2002 Toyota Sienna. It had p0420 code before. After modification it gave p0136. I figured out that this video is not correct for all vehicles, the Toyota sensor required the resistor be put on the signal ground wire (the white one). Not the blue one as shown in this video. After moving the resistor to the white wire this was a total success, it's been 300 miles and no codes.
Every o2 sensor can have different color wires, so perhaps you needed to move yours to the white wire but I would definitely say that doing this mod to the "signal ground" is NOT the right thing to do in any general sense. I'm not clear what you did with the capacitor, but moving the resistor to the ground *may* have raised the voltages for the output across the board. In some cases that might help, but certainly not a good general recommendation. This mod is trying to smooth out the curve whereas you raised the curve. The computer is checking if the curve crosses a certain voltage fewer times than the upstream sensor, and in some cases moving the curve up may also solve the problem, but I think that's a fluke and don't recommend it.
The p0136 means sensor malfunction. That again indicates to me that you used the wrong wires. In particular, it flags the o2 sensor heater wires, so I believe your blue wire may have been one of the two heater wires. I looked up your model and it uses an OEM Denso which should be the same colors as mine. However, perhaps your o2 sensor was an aftermarket?
Bottom line, I DO NOT recommend making this change, but in some cases I can see how it might possibly help (but more likely is not going to work). Given the P0136 code it's pretty clear that the mod was done incorrectly on the heater wires instead of the signal wires.
it worked. passed test been a month now no codes.
Glad it worked!
Nope, I did not have the colors mixed up. Checked everything with a meter. The black wires are for the heater. The blue wire on mine is positive and white wire is infact the signal ground (-). On my vehicle this is the wire (ground) that outputs the signal after leaving the sensor. limiting or "smoothing" as you put it. That signal puts the system in range. It checked out perfectly in range with the OBD2 scanner.
Excellent.
Hi!
I did this. 2014 ford explorer.
0
P0430 is gone now, but i have a stuck lean code B2S2. The o2 sensor doesnt really sweep at all (stays at .360 v) which i can see the computer seeing a lean condition.
Have you ran into this?
I've tried it on previous o2 and newer ones but I get heater circuit malfunction since doing this. My capacitors seem to be pointing the right way but I wonder what would cause the heater circuits to malfunction. If the capacitors are facing the wrong way, would that cause the malfunction?
Have you figured this issue out? Im having the same problem.
Great video! Will this enable the catalyst monitor to go into complete/ready status?
This is my question as well
Yes
Does it matter if you put it in the front of the sensor or bottom wiring?
Could you please write down the exact amount of the resistor and the capacitor?
hi thanks for the great video where can i find the simulator ? thanks
I made-up and installed 2 modified O2 sensors for a 2004 GMC Yukon XL 6.0L, B1S2, & B2S2. This smoothed out their signals to mimic good cats.
However, P0136 and P0156 have now failed. These are the O2 sensor performance codes. The diagnostics passively monitors/tests the transitions below 350 mV and above 709 mV. If the ECM/PCM detects the passive tests have failed, the control module will force the air-to-fuel ratio rich and/or lean. The control module then waits for a predicted response from the HO2S. If the HO2S voltage transitions below 350 mV and/or above 709 mV.
I wonder if different resistor and/or diode values can pass the P0136 and P0156 tests.
This is what I'm thinking too. There must be a "perfect combination"
Hi I replace my complete exhaust system on my 06 Alfa 3.2 v6 all 4 cat's including 2 downstream O2s where removed so obviously the engine light comes on, I'm not a electronics specialist so I need some help , Can I build a circuit to completely replace the downstream o2s?
Get an o2 connector from a "You Pull It" junk yard. Get the o2 side and the wiring harness side. Put MIL simulator between both connectors. This way you don't have to cut up an o2 sensor. Just put it between o2 sensor and wiring harness. Plug and play.
That's a great solution if you can get access to those connectors. If you have to buy them it's expensive and a hassle to make a cable. Even going to a junkyard, crawling underneath, and removing one seems like more hassle than it's worth for me. But it's a good idea if you have a junkyard near you and you like doing that work.
Hi, does it make a difference where on the wire its done at? Can I do this up closer by the harness? I have no room down at the bottom by the o2 sensor... A fast reply would be greatly appreciated.
Anywhere is fine.
So to keep it clear. Keep the ground wire one solid wire with capacitor spliced in? Then has the resistor on (grey instead of blue on mine) grey wire running from cpu to o2 sensor head?
Yes. To splice in the cap, you'll have to remove about 1/8" to 1/4" of insulation. Do this step first: remove a section of gray wire and solder (or crimp) the resistor. Remember the cap. will get soldered or crimped on the one end.
@@pauls.3188 ahhh man I done sold that mustang I needed it done to🤣was trying to cheap out on a tune
Would this concept work on a header that delete's the CAT entirely? that is, leave the lambda where it typically is a the bottom of the header prior to the flange tot he midpipe and simply use the resistors like you do here to lower sensor re-fresh speed to the degree that the ECU believes the CAT is still in place?
I've done this to my 2005 f250 6.8 v10. My engine light came back on. Code says B1S2 and B2S2 are both stuck on lean. Reading .250 and .255 and not really changing from those numbers at all. What can I do from here?
ur the man very good job man very good. job
would it be possible to use this configuration on a $20 o2 harness extension? this would just plug in line and would make this possible to do without even having to remove your o2 sensor. thanks for posting the video!
Yeah, that is what I was thinking. My wires come up inside the vehicle and under my passenger seat. I would do the soldering of the components there, out of sight under the seat -- should not matter their distance a few inches down the line from the sensor.
Am gonna try it on my w204 mercedes, this weekend
Brought up more codes wow
I'm getting a PO140 after doing this. I guess the ECU isn't detecting the O2 at all now. Any ideas?