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I was always told to smear petroleum jelly on the new water pump impeller and the plate it sits on when changing out the water pump impeller. I don't know if that's correct or not but its always worked for me. I never ran my outboard motor with out any water, ever !!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope this helps someone. Great video, thanks !
A little marine grease or petroleum is always beneficial when installing a new impeller...You just need to be careful that whatever you use doesn't inadvertently attack the rubber on the vanes, but that seems unlikely...
Man I gat the same problem but mine for sure is the grommet, thanks to this video I have a more clear understanding of this motor, you did a great job explaining.👍🏼
I bought a used 1983 Evinrude 15HP (E15RCTR), like the last 5 outboards I purchased, it should start right up and run fine. Boy have I learned otherwise, probably the biggest lie ever told. This motor overheated 2 miles off shore and a friend (Doug at American Legends Vintage Outboards - youtuber) brought me out a spare motor to get back in. So here is what we found wrong and repaired. Removed the thermostat, seemed to be functioning fine, changed it anyways. Opened up the water pump, one blade broken and lodged in water tube on top of the water pump. THEN, I decided to pull the exhaust manifold, where those 2 grommets are (water tubes - in and out) and the water inlet grommet looked like it was jammed from the factory. All crunched over and allowing a pencil point size hole for water to pass. Got to say, I love these old outboards, 3 of mine are 1957 or older.
When I've replaced water pumps on m my outboards, I've used a light coat of grease/silicone/dish detergent to help get the impeller in the cup, AND I think it helps extend the life. I also, NEVER run them without water. I have a Yamaha 50 hp 2 cycle on my current boat, and it's a bit of a bear to get the water going...so, I hook up the cuff, water on full blast; I tilt the motor all the way up, lower it and start it and (so far) I'm getting water peeing out...Yamaha's are NOT good at priming without being in the water. I have a whale tail on it, so getting in in a bucket without taking that off is just more work than I want to do every time.
I’ve been rebuilding a Johnson 15 and this is one of the most helpful videos I’ve seen. Thanks for posting. I have a Gheenoe just like your boat. Does that hydrofoil make a difference?
Doesn’t it really fry your bacon when you find out what the problem really was sooner and pull the water pump out first? I do the same thing every once in a while? Great video by the way.
Can I ask you about your bolt on cavitation plate. Do you think it helps your boat get up on plane better? I have a 15 like yours and I am considering trying one.
I liked how it made the boat more stable. That boat is so narrow that it would wonder on the water. With the hydrofoil the boat was more controllable. With the power to weight ratio the boat got on plane pretty much instantly. I would 100% put one on another boat.
OK, well I guess you won't run that impeller dry again....At least the damaged impeller was whole and the vanes didn't break off, otherwise you would have to worry about where all the impeller debris could get lodged in the future causing some real big headaches. Was the plastic impeller housing and cup OK?? Oftentimes these parts get partially melted and can cause water flow issues... Looks like a strong stream when you got done though, but running on a flushette can fool us...The garden hose is supplying the water pressure.... You mention the powerhead was from an 88 and the midsection was an 85. Those water tubes and grommets have changed over the years, so it is possible to mismatch these pieces...Old water tubes, new grommets, etc. I hope you greased up all those bolts, especially if you use the engine in salt water....Looks like a fresh water engine though. The beauty of these engines is that the powerheads and gearcases are very rugged, and can take alot of beatings and still work just fine...Sure hope you are mixing at 50:1, please ignore that stupid 100:1 sticker on the motor pan. Mix the oil a litttle heavy for your first few outings to help smooth over any little cylinder/piston scuffs that may have occured when the engine overheated and seized... Nice save buddy, enjoy this great little engine.... And yes, those upper water tube grommets are a known issue with these engines, especially when used in salt water...Not so much of an issue in fresh water...Was the thermostat OK? You may have to replace it if it has melted/gotten stuck...It is immportant to remember that these engines have to get up to temp to run properly, especially at slower speeds....Running with no thermostat is a bad idea. Let me know if you have any other questions... Nice work...
Evinrude 15, my start coil bolt was cross threaded (previous owner) down into the bolt hole. So the threads in the hole are stripped (not on the bolt) what do you recommend doing to fix this? Throw jb weld in it and tap new threads?
I have a 1987 Evinrude 15hp. I used to have a 9.9 Evinrude, basically the same motor only the 15 has a tuned exhaust and bigger carb. The 15 spins 1000 rpm higher and really pops you up on plane much quicker. Hey I’d be very happily to have the manual. How do we connect. Thanks Ken
OK, just watched your video again...Understand that you ran it without the thermostat just to test it...I have enclosed a link that gives all the part numbers for the thermostat, blow off spring, seat, etc that is needed to make this system work properly. www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1986&hp=15&model=E15ECDE&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Cylinder+%26amp%3B+Crankcase Perhaps you already have the other bits and pieces already...Looks like the thermostat comes with the rubber seat. The rubber seat is necessary so the bottom of the thermostat will seal properly....Don
Just remembered you said the powerhead was from a 1988 model, here is the link for that: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=15&model=E15ECCS&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Cylinder+%26amp%3B+Crankcase This parts breakdown is less confusing than the 86 list I provided before...1986 used both style heads, so the parts book can be confusing....
Could of saved yourself a lot of effort if you had mentioned to an engineer, that you dry start before hitting the water. Have you ever gone down a hot slippery dip dry and your bum gets burnt, rubber gets hotter than that & melts/distorts- dude it’s the same theory.
![ILLSLICK - KILLSHOT REMIX [FULL VERSION]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RIK8RrqIAzE/mqdefault.jpg)
I BUY FISHING/OUTDOOR BUSINESSES!!
If you know someone wanting to sell their fishing business please contact me. A finders reward will be given if there is a deal made from your lead.
Man, you tore into that engine like a boss! Glad you got it straightened out. 👍👍
Thank you!
I was always told to smear petroleum jelly on the new water pump impeller and the plate it sits on when changing out the water pump impeller. I don't know if that's correct or not but its always worked for me. I never ran my outboard motor with out any water, ever !!!!!!!!!!!!! Hope this helps someone. Great video, thanks !
Always water from now on for sure.
A little marine grease or petroleum is always beneficial when installing a new impeller...You just need to be careful that whatever you use doesn't inadvertently attack the rubber on the vanes, but that seems unlikely...
Man I gat the same problem but mine for sure is the grommet, thanks to this video I have a more clear understanding of this motor, you did a great job explaining.👍🏼
I bought a used 1983 Evinrude 15HP (E15RCTR), like the last 5 outboards I purchased, it should start right up and run fine. Boy have I learned otherwise, probably the biggest lie ever told. This motor overheated 2 miles off shore and a friend (Doug at American Legends Vintage Outboards - youtuber) brought me out a spare motor to get back in.
So here is what we found wrong and repaired. Removed the thermostat, seemed to be functioning fine, changed it anyways. Opened up the water pump, one blade broken and lodged in water tube on top of the water pump. THEN, I decided to pull the exhaust manifold, where those 2 grommets are (water tubes - in and out) and the water inlet grommet looked like it was jammed from the factory. All crunched over and allowing a pencil point size hole for water to pass. Got to say, I love these old outboards, 3 of mine are 1957 or older.
Good learning lesson. I love these little motors too! Thanks for watching!!
Bueno día Ricardo como esta me puede desir como ago para conseguir un bloque de moto eberide 15 caballos con los 2 pistones igual y lo anillo
I see you change the 9.9 square exhaust tube to the 15 round exhaust tube, good move.. now shes a really a 15hp..
I’m doing the thermostat and grommets on mine this week, just waiting on the parts
I would check the thermostat first before diving into that grommet. I’ve had 100’s of those motors 9.9 and 15
Gooood motors!
When I've replaced water pumps on m my outboards, I've used a light coat of grease/silicone/dish detergent to help get the impeller in the cup, AND I think it helps extend the life. I also, NEVER run them without water. I have a Yamaha 50 hp 2 cycle on my current boat, and it's a bit of a bear to get the water going...so, I hook up the cuff, water on full blast; I tilt the motor all the way up, lower it and start it and (so far) I'm getting water peeing out...Yamaha's are NOT good at priming without being in the water. I have a whale tail on it, so getting in in a bucket without taking that off is just more work than I want to do every time.
Nice repair cuz!
Man. nice but I think I would have gone to water pump first before taking the engine out !
The water pump wasn’t old. That’s why I pulled the power head. Oh well. Learned a lot.
Great video!
Great work on lil engine 😊😊
Thank you!
I’ve been rebuilding a Johnson 15 and this is one of the most helpful videos I’ve seen. Thanks for posting. I have a Gheenoe just like your boat. Does that hydrofoil make a difference?
It does. It makes the boat more stable
I got my Johnson running and ended up putting a hydrofoil on as well. Loving this boat. Thanks again.
Doesn’t it really fry your bacon when you find out what the problem really was sooner and pull the water pump out first? I do the same thing every once in a while? Great video by the way.
thank you share this video
Nice work
Can I ask you about your bolt on cavitation plate. Do you think it helps your boat get up on plane better?
I have a 15 like yours and I am considering trying one.
I liked how it made the boat more stable. That boat is so narrow that it would wonder on the water. With the hydrofoil the boat was more controllable. With the power to weight ratio the boat got on plane pretty much instantly. I would 100% put one on another boat.
OK, well I guess you won't run that impeller dry again....At least the damaged impeller was whole and the vanes didn't break off, otherwise you would have to worry about where all the impeller debris could get lodged in the future causing some real big headaches. Was the plastic impeller housing and cup OK?? Oftentimes these parts get partially melted and can cause water flow issues... Looks like a strong stream when you got done though, but running on a flushette can fool us...The garden hose is supplying the water pressure.... You mention the powerhead was from an 88 and the midsection was an 85. Those water tubes and grommets have changed over the years, so it is possible to mismatch these pieces...Old water tubes, new grommets, etc. I hope you greased up all those bolts, especially if you use the engine in salt water....Looks like a fresh water engine though. The beauty of these engines is that the powerheads and gearcases are very rugged, and can take alot of beatings and still work just fine...Sure hope you are mixing at 50:1, please ignore that stupid 100:1 sticker on the motor pan. Mix the oil a litttle heavy for your first few outings to help smooth over any little cylinder/piston scuffs that may have occured when the engine overheated and seized...
Nice save buddy, enjoy this great little engine....
And yes, those upper water tube grommets are a known issue with these engines, especially when used in salt water...Not so much of an issue in fresh water...Was the thermostat OK? You may have to replace it if it has melted/gotten stuck...It is immportant to remember that these engines have to get up to temp to run properly, especially at slower speeds....Running with no thermostat is a bad idea. Let me know if you have any other questions...
Nice work...
Evinrude 15, my start coil bolt was cross threaded (previous owner) down into the bolt hole. So the threads in the hole are stripped (not on the bolt) what do you recommend doing to fix this? Throw jb weld in it and tap new threads?
Heli-coil it. 🤙🏼
"Ya SAVAGE!!!" HHAHAHAHA!!!! That was hilarious.
Did you recheck compression after running it ?
Did not
The clutch dog on these engines 🤢🤢🤢🤢 very dependable but boy do rude and Johnson props love to spin on idle
Rookie error running the motor with no water! Now you know.
💯
Anyone need the service manual on these Hmu I'll email to you if possible I dont have a johnson 15 anymore been working on a couple for some friends
I have a 1987 Evinrude 15hp. I used to have a 9.9 Evinrude, basically the same motor only the 15 has a tuned exhaust and bigger carb. The 15 spins 1000 rpm higher and really pops you up on plane much quicker. Hey I’d be very happily to have the manual. How do we connect. Thanks Ken
OK, just watched your video again...Understand that you ran it without the thermostat just to test it...I have enclosed a link that gives all the part numbers for the thermostat, blow off spring, seat, etc that is needed to make this system work properly.
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1986&hp=15&model=E15ECDE&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Cylinder+%26amp%3B+Crankcase
Perhaps you already have the other bits and pieces already...Looks like the thermostat comes with the rubber seat. The rubber seat is necessary so the bottom of the thermostat will seal properly....Don
Just remembered you said the powerhead was from a 1988 model, here is the link for that:
www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1988&hp=15&model=E15ECCS&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Cylinder+%26amp%3B+Crankcase
This parts breakdown is less confusing than the 86 list I provided before...1986 used both style heads, so the parts book can be confusing....
They don’t fry they just keep on smoking.
Could of saved yourself a lot of effort if you had mentioned to an engineer, that you dry start before hitting the water. Have you ever gone down a hot slippery dip dry and your bum gets burnt, rubber gets hotter than that & melts/distorts- dude it’s the same theory.
I learned my lesson.
Lot of extra work for a impeller 😢
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